Plant Highlight

A Spider Everyone Can Love

Posted on February 1, 2026February 2, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Hanging pot of a spider plant with long, arching green leaves striped with white, labeled with a small wooden plant marker. — Chlorophytum comosum, the Spider Plant (photo by M. Lisy).

Spiders are one of those creatures that humans fear. Most here in the Northeast are totally harmless, yet many times people run and occasionally hurt themselves trying to get away from them. As such, it is interesting to me that one of our most beloved plants is called “Spider Plant.” Its growth does superficially resemble a spider, but this one brings joy to its owners. In fact, it is one of the hardiest of all our houseplants.

Scientifically it is known as Chlorophytum comosum, and there is quite a bit of controversy in the scientific community over species. In the pictures accompanying this article, the differences in the leaves can be clearly seen. The great debate stems from (pun intended) differences in leaf shape. Scientists cannot decide on whether those differences represent phenotypic variation (changes in shape found within a population) or differences between species. And while it seems like this should be an easy task, look at all the differences seen in dogs, which are all the same species. While the leaves on our houseplants most likely represent different artificially selected cultivars (varieties), determining how many there are in the wild is difficult. Plants normally have some ability to change the shape of their leaves. For example, plants grown in shade tend to have larger leaves than those grown in full sun. These plants are native to South Africa, and tend to grown in forests, which could explain why such variation is seen in the wild. There were two other species listed for a while, but then those got lumped back in to C. comosum and their differences chalked up to environmental variation.

In reality, how many species there are does not really matter for us keeping these wonderful houseplants. What does matter is their forgiving nature. They grow and thrive in any typical houseplant soil. It is best to let the surface dry before watering again. They have an interesting root system that is part of the key to their success. The thick, tuberous roots store water, and that is why they can survive for much longer than other houseplants. When repotting, it is amazing how they fill the pot completely with roots. Although it sounds like this might become a problem, the Spider Plant does not mind. It responds with more leaves, and even babies.

Four close-up views of a single variegated spider plant leaf on a dark surface, showing its green edges and white center stripe from different angles. — Spider Plant varieties, clockwise from the top left: a) from my first-grade teacher - narrow leaf with thin green stripe, b) wide leaf with wide white stripe, c) all green wide leaf, d) green leaf with white edges (photos by M. Lisy).

The Spider Plant is easily propagated by planting the little plantlets that form along runners sent out by the mother plant. Simply plant these in typical houseplant soil, water well, and they will start to grow. As they do not have a fully developed root system yet, care must be taken to not let them dry out during the beginning stages. This plant is probably the most easily propagated houseplant. I still have one propagated by my first-grade teacher. It grew in the classroom when I was there, and two years later when my sister had the same teacher, it had produced babies that were sent home with each student. Despite all of life’s ups and downs, the plant is still going and thriving almost half a century later.

There are a number of interesting varieties of this plant. The leaves can be narrow, wide, or curled. The colors of the leaves are interesting as well, and can be found in any combination of leaf-types. There are green leaves with a white center stripe. Alternatively, there are green leaves with white edges. As one would expect, there are all green leaves too. Although I do not have one yet, there is a variety called ‘Hawaiian’ that has a green leaf with a yellow center. Don’t be fooled by some so-called Spider Plants that are purple – those are actually Tradescantia, or Spiderworts, which are a totally different species of plant native to the Americas. No matter which variety is chosen, with proper care Spider Plants could bring the owner enjoyment for a lifetime!

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Camellias for Color, Inside and Out

Posted on January 18, 2026January 22, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

The image shows a plant with dark green leaves and vibrant red flowers with yellow stamens. The background has colorful lights. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Now that the holidays are over, the decorations are put away and scenes of dreary, wintry weather dance in our heads, one plant with flowers resembling roses that comes into bloom this time of year are camellias. These Asian natives have been cultivated for possibly 5000 years. Most of us are familiar with Camellia sinensis var. sinensis aka, tea! Black tea, white tea, green tea all come from the same plant just processed differently.

Other camellia species were noted and grown for their flowers gracing gardens of temples and nobility. Prized plants were selected and crossed and eventually made their way to England, sometime in the 1730s. These elegant and highly treasured plants soon were spread all over Europe with hybridists and propagators in Italy, France, Belgium, Holland, Portugal, Spain, Germany and the U.K. by the middle of the 19th century. More and more hybrids and cultivars were being developed with the number now well over 3,000. As their popularity grew, camellias were soon being grown in Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Societies, like the American Camellia Society sprang up and shows were held (and still are) to exhibit various forms and compete for awards.

Options for growing camellias in Connecticut depend on what part of the state you live in. Thanks to breeding efforts of Dr. William Ackerman (retired USDA plant breeder) and Dr Clifford Parks (Univ of NC botanist) varieties of camellias hardy to zone 6 (-10 F) were developed. Depending on the variety and environmental conditions, camellias can bloom from fall to spring. Many of the most popular cold hardy, fall blooming cultivars belong to the Winter Series bred by Ackerman and include plants such as ‘Polar Ice’, Winter Charm’ and ‘Winter Rose’, the latter reaching only 2 to 3 feet high and wide making it a possibility for container culture.

Dr. Parks focused on cold hardy spring bloomers including the April series (C. japonica hybrids). Many grow from 5 to 10 feet tall and can be found at some local nurseries. Look for ‘April Rose’, ‘April Blush’, ‘April Remembered’ and ‘April Tryst’.

Keep in mind that our weather has been somewhat unpredictable so those in zone 6 might want to locate plants in a semi-shaded, protected location. Camellia flowers are just exquisite, resembling roses in colors ranging from white to pink to red. Some are picoteed, some are double and some are very fragrant. The dark green foliage holds up year-round.

The image shows a close-up of a delicate flower with soft pink petals, yellow stamens, and glossy green leaves. The background is slightly blurred. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Camellias, being broad-leaved evergreen shrubs, have similar requirements to rhododendrons. They do best in an acidic, well-drained soil amended with organic matter. It is often best to group them for effect and also for some protection from the elements. Plants are slow-growing and need adequate moisture but avoid planting them in poorly drained sites. Semi to full shade is preferable as the leaves may scorch in sunny, dry areas. A fertilizer for acid-loving plants can be applied in early spring as directed on the package. Pruning is rarely needed but could be done right after flowering.

I’ve never been fortunate to live in a warm enough location to plant camellias outdoors, but several cultivars are perfect as house plants if kept in a cool spot indoors. Two available from Logee’s in Danielson are ‘High Fragrance’ with delightfully scented light pink semi-double flowers and ‘Scentuous’ with fragrant, semi-double white blossoms. They have others blooming in their greenhouse.

Growing camellias in containers is a splendid way to get winter color, often along with fragrance. According to Logee’s co-owner and horticulturist, Bryron Martin, plants require an acid soil with a pH around 4.8 to 5.8. They can be grown in a camellia/azalea potting mix. Martin advises that young plants can be pinched back for fuller growth although that will delay flowering a bit. Keep in mind that some cultivars can get up to 6 feet in height so either select those that mature at a smaller size or be sure you have space to accommodate them.

Temperature is key to induce blooms. Ideally Martin recommends nighttime temperatures no higher than 59 F during the winter and preferably 30 – 40 F so an unheated room or sun porch is a great place for camellias. If nighttime temperatures are too high, the buds will drop. An east or west exposure will provide adequate light.

Fertilize camellias in the spring when active growth begins. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants as directed. Commercial synthetic and organic camellia fertilizers are available. Some growers use a cottonseed meal/bloodmeal homemade blend. To supply adequate magnesium to plants, Martin recommends dissolving 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water and applying this mixture twice a year.

For late fall through spring blossoms, indoors or out, camellias are attractive, evocative plants that perhaps more folks might consider cultivating. Those looking for a Valentine’s Day activity might consider the Camellia Festival at Planting Fields in Oyster Bay, NY. The Lyman estate in Waltham, MA also has a camellia greenhouse that is open to the public.

Cranberries, A Symbol of Holiday Cheer

Posted on December 27, 2025January 12, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Workers harvesting cranberries in a flooded bog using a conveyor system. — Keith Weller, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org

Each holiday season, a wave of bright red cranberries appears on Instagram feeds, Pinterest boards, and tables across the nation in the form of sauces, desserts, drinks, and decorations. Beyond their seasonal fame however, these tart red berries play a major role in U.S. agriculture and culture.

Let’s start with some numbers. The USDA estimated the 2024 U.S. cranberry harvest at about 8.24 million barrels, roughly 824 million pounds of fruit. Here in the U.S., the cranberry king is Wisconsin, producing nearly 4.9 million barrels, around 60% of the national total. In second place is the historical cranberry producer, Massachusetts, with approximately 2.2 million barrels produced in 2024. The top agricultural crop in the state, Massachusetts’ cranberry crop alone is valued at $73.4 million, supporting over 6,400 jobs and generating $1.7 billion in annual economic activity. Cranberries are so important for Massachusetts, in fact, that they are the state fruit and cranberry red is the state color.

Cranberries, known scientifically as Vaccinium macrocarpon, are native to North America and are a close relative of blueberries. Compared with blueberries however, cranberry plants tend to be smaller, low to the ground and vine-like. The vines require acidic soil (pH 4.0–5.5), a reasonably cool growing season, and abundant fresh water. If these conditions can be emulated at home, cranberries can make an attractive edible ground cover. They perform well when planted alongside plants such as conifers and rhododendron, provided they are given plenty of water and appropriate fertilizer for acid-loving plants.

For commercial production, cranberries thrive in uniquely engineered wetland environments - bogs built atop beds of sand, peat, gravel, and clay. The annual commercial production cycle of cranberries begins with winter flooding, which forms protective ice that shields the vines and prepares the surface for sanding, which stimulates spring growth. As temperatures rise in spring, bogs are drained, and bees pollinate the blossoms. Summer is devoted to irrigation and monitoring, followed by harvest from mid-September through early November, before the cycle repeats with winter flooding and freezing.

Cranberry growers will typically harvest their crop one of two ways: through wet harvesting or dry harvesting. Wet harvesting describes the process where bogs are flooded to allow berries to float to the surface before being netted and loaded into equipment for cleaning and processing. This harvesting technique is the most popular, but requires proper equipment and careful planning. Dry harvesting, the process of using mechanical pickers that comb berries into conveyers, is an approach primarily used for fresh markets. More fruit are left on the vine with this approach, but the collected berries for fresh market can be sold at high prices and dry harvesting allows growers without the means to flood and drain their bogs on a schedule to grow cranberries.

Cranberries are deeply embedded in holiday traditions, thanks to their seasonal harvest, festive red color, and historical use. For more than 12,000 years, they’ve been utilized by Indigenous communities, especially the Wampanoag People, for food, medicine, dye, and winter preservation. The cranberries collected by hand in the bogs of southern Massachusetts were both eaten fresh and dried for shelf stability, then eaten as-is later in the winter or mixed with dried meats and fat to make pemmican, a hearty winter staple.

European settlers in New England quickly adopted the appreciation of cranberries, integrating them into winter celebrations. By the 18th and 19th centuries, cranberry sauces, relishes, and baked goods were staples of Christmas feasts. Their vibrant red hue also made them popular in holiday crafts such as cranberry-popcorn garlands or wreath embellishments.

U.S. cranberries reach peak consumption during the holidays. Though 95% of cranberries are processed into juice, sauce, or dried fruit, fresh cranberries remain a holiday staple, used in everything from stuffing and pies to cocktails and décor. Around 400 million pounds are eaten annually, with an estimated 20% consumed during Thanksgiving week, about 80 million pounds. With per-capita annual consumption averaging 2.3 pounds, mostly in juice or processed form, cranberries rank second among berries consumed in the U.S. after strawberries!

Cranberries exemplify a convergence of historical tradition and the advances of modern agricultural practices. They support regional economies, sustain traditional farming techniques, and bring seasonal joy to millions. As you gather with loved ones this holiday season, enjoy an extra serving of these tart crimson berries and remember that food isn’t just sustenance, it’s heritage, celebration, and connection.

Highlighting Connecticut’s Winter Cheer: Common Witch Hazel

Posted on November 29, 2025December 2, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Branches of witch hazel with clusters of yellow, ribbon-like flowers against a clear blue sky and autumn foliage. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Connecticut’s native species of Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, is a remarkably unique woody ornamental that can be found as a large shrub or small tree. It comes to the rescue this time of year as the leaves continue to drop and our surroundings become starved of color. Its foliage in autumn is a showstopping yellow.

Hamamelis virginiana can grow between 10 and 20 feet tall and is often nearly just as wide as it is tall. In ideal conditions, some can even grow as large as 30 feet tall. It has a loose and somewhat open, irregular rounded shape and is very attractive in landscaping when used as hedge rows, woodland edge planting, or along a pond or river. It’s the last plant to come into bloom each year in the Northeast, blooming from October to December. The bloom coincides with its flashy fall foliage, making it one of the most eye-catching specimens of the winter landscape.

The blooms are bright yellow with spidery, ribbon-like petals and have a pleasant citrusy fragrance. They are clustered tightly around the branches, and the petals curl up protectively during cold spells. A few cut branches in a vase will be sure to perfume and brighten up your home during the dreary winter months. Its late flowers attract certain species of flies, bees, gnats, and cold-tolerant moths. These insects are a food source for native songbirds such as kinglets, chickadees, and titmice.

The medicinal qualities of the Common Witch Hazel are world renowned and have been utilized for centuries. Its anti-inflammatory properties serve as a soothing remedy for bruises, itches, sunburns, acne, and small wounds. In fact, Common Witch Hazel extract is one of the only medicinal plants approved by the FDA as a nonprescription drug. Always consult with a medical professional before incorporating the use of medicinal plants. It's worth noting that there have been several Witch Hazel processing plants in Connecticut, starting in the 19^th Century. To this day, most of the world’s Witch Hazel extracts are still produced in East Hampton, Connecticut.

Consider planting a Common Witch Hazel or two in your yard, mixed with hollies, viburnums, and dogwoods for some late-season cheer. Common Witch Hazel will grow in a variety of conditions, from moist to dry, and shaded to sunny. Flowers are most abundant when planted in full sun. It prefers acidic, nutrient-rich, well-draining soil. It’s quite hardy, growing in zones 4 through 8, and has very little trouble with pests or diseases. After establishment, they are virtually care-free. The only maintenance of note is periodic pruning to remove suckers if a controlled shape is desired.

Although it is a slow growing plant, it is worth the wait when it bursts into bloom. With so much going for it, this is a plant that deserves greater consideration for use in ornamental landscapes and yards.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Chestnuts: A Tasty Thanksgiving Treat

Posted on November 8, 2025November 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Seven brown chestnuts resting on two yellow autumn leaves on a wooden surface — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

With Thanksgiving approaching, many of us will be sitting down to hearty feasts with family and friends. Time-tested recipes on worn index cards or heavily thumbed cookbooks are combed through/uncovered. Many of us gardeners pick a few new plants for our gardens each year, so why not try a new plant on the dinner table? Chestnuts were reputedly served at the first Thanksgiving and thanks to dedicated breeding programs may be available locally today.

It’s hard to imagine that a little over 125 years ago there were probably 4 billion American chestnuts (Castanea dentata) spread out from southern Maine to northern Georgia. They were an important food source for both indigenous people as well as wildlife. Early European settlers found their rot resistant wood useful for many building purposes.

Unfortunately, a disease (Cryphonectria parasitica), known as chestnut blight, was unintentionally introduced in 1876 on imported Japanese chestnuts (C. crenata). These were sold via mail order throughout the eastern U.S., and our native American chestnuts soon became infected. This fungus spreads by windblown spores. Signs of infection include a reddish-orange ‘rash’ on the affected bark and as it reproduces, an orangey substance oozes from pores in the bark. Cankers form and eventually the plant can no longer internally transport water and nutrients. Chestnut blight kills the parent tree but not the roots so even to this day, you are able to find sprouts growing from chestnut roots. As the sprouts develop, they too will be killed back by the blight so while the tree is kept alive, American chestnuts are considered functionally extinct, but all is not lost.

Fortunately, both researchers and chestnut lovers have been working pretty much for the past 100 years on developing varieties resistant to chestnut blight. Breeding work has been done in many locations but the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station began their program in the early 1900s and it is the only program that has continued uninterrupted to this day. Presently this CAES program is led by Forest Pathologist and Ecologist, Dr. Susanna Kerio.

Various chestnut species including American, Chinese Japanese and European have been crossed, backcrossed, planted, evaluated, culled and selected by researchers and enthusiasts all over the eastern U.S. As one can imagine, it takes more time to evaluate a tree’s characteristics than say, an annual plant like a tomato.

Organizations like The American Chestnut Foundation started in 1982 have been championing the search. According to Deni Ranguelova, the New England Regional Science Coordinator, the goal is to develop blight resistant chestnuts and restore this magnificent tree to its native range. Members of this organization have the opportunity to obtain straight species or hybrid seed to try their hand at growing chestnuts and add observations to the chestnut knowledge base.

Why all this work on chestnuts? Well for one, they are deliciously mild and sweet. They are low in calories and high in fiber. Chestnuts are a good source of potassium and other nutrients. Eat them freshly roasted (just like in the song!), in holiday stuffings, soups, in main dishes and glazed. To cook them, they do need to be scored whether oven roasted, boiled, steamed or microwaved to keep them from bursting. Lots of instructions, recipes and videos can be found online.

Second, plants are productive. In fact, it was estimated that before their demise that a mature American chestnut may be able to produce 6000 nuts! They can serve as a food source to both people and wildlife as researchers and enthusiasts create blight resistant strains to plant in our natural areas or in commercial orchards.

Aside from being a member of The American Chestnut Foundation and obtaining seed, one can order chestnut seedlings from several online nurseries. Keep in mind that chestnuts do best in a sunny area with well-drained soil. Root rots can occur in poorly drained areas. Plants are being bred to be straight and tall for timber, or shorter and wider for nut production. Make sure you have enough space for a mature chestnut tree, or most likely 2 trees as chestnuts need another plant for cross pollination.

Even if a chestnut tree is not in your future, do try some chestnut dishes at your Thanksgiving table. They may start a new tradition.

Got Garlic?

Posted on October 4, 2025October 6, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Garlic belongs to the allium family, which includes onions, shallots, chives, and even some ornamental plants. People have strong feelings about garlic; they either love it or hate it. Whether you add it to your pantry of seasonings or not, there are tons of fantastic reasons to plant it in your garden.

Garlic cloves — Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Garlic is great for gardeners on the go. One of my favorite things about these plants is the window in which they grow. You plant cloves in October and harvest the bulbs in July. Planting garlic cloves is one of the last things I do in my garden before hanging up my gloves for the season. This means I have an entire bed already working for me when the spring starts. In early summer, you can harvest the young flower spikes, known as scapes, and use them in recipes for a mild garlic flavor. They blend beautifully with early season cole crops to make some fantastic spring dishes!

From a practical standpoint, the time saved in planting an entire bed before the season has even started is invaluable. Their presence helps to retain garden soil and prevent loss through erosion over the dormant season. Their care is minimal, only needing a side-dress of fertilizer in the spring and supplemental water when active growing starts. On top of all of that, they package themselves perfectly for storage, when cured and stored properly.

A garden bed of garlic with half of the plants removed — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Another fantastic benefit to having garlic in your garden beds is that it is well equipped to fend off many vertebrate and invertebrate types of pests. From personal experience, my garlic beds have not needed a fenced in area like my other vegetables and have been relatively undisturbed by local wildlife. While there are claims out there regarding companion planting, I only can confirm for certain that the properties of garlic keep animals away from garlic plants. Scientists are also studying the benefits of garlic for the microbial environment in the soil, to see what other impacts they may have.

As large bulbs develop, they help to break up the soil in the bed for whatever is next to come in the rotation. Once garlic bulbs are harvested, we usually have anywhere between 90 and 100 days left of the growing season. This is plenty of time to rotate in a fast-growing crop like leafy greens, summer squash, carrots, radish, or even some kinds of brassicas.

If you do decide to give garlic a try this year, make sure you pick up clean seed garlic from a trusted source. As with any other plant, healthy starting material will help in yielding healthy plants. Hardneck varieties tend to grow best in our climate. They have a firm stem that starts at the base of the bulb and grows through the plant, giving it a strong single stalk during the growing season (this is where the scapes come from). They need a vernalization (cold) period, which is why it is best to plant them before the ground freezes. There are many varieties of hardneck garlic with a wide range of flavors.

Do not use garlic cloves from the grocery store. Grocery stores typically carry softneck garlic, which has no central stem and may have more cloves inside. A lot of our commercial garlic is grown in California. Softneck garlic may not grow as well in our climate. In addition, commercial agricultural produce can sometimes be treated with growth inhibitors or inadvertently carry pests or pathogens that would not serve your garden well. Local farms, farmers markets, and harvest festivals are great resources to find quality planting garlic. There are also reputable catalog companies out there, but you better get to ordering as time is short!

Garlic leaves peeking through straw mulch — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Before planting, break the garlic bulb into its numerous cloves. Don’t be too concerned if some skin flakes off of the outermost layer, but do not peel the garlic before planting it. The intact skin acts as a protective barrier to keep them from rotting in the soil. Place cloves pointy end up in the soil at a depth of 1-2 inches, depending on the size of the clove. Water in and cover with a straw or leaf mulch, and it’s done! Don’t be too shocked if you see them start to emerge from the soil before the snow. Leave them be and assess in the spring, sometimes you don’t even have to cut those leaves back!

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, garlic offers something for everyone. Its numerous benefits in the garden, plus its versatility in the kitchen provide a great starting point for those who want to have their own garden-to-table experience. You’ll be a pro in no time!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

Dodder – A Common but Weird Parasitic Plant

Posted on September 1, 2025September 5, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Dodder plant wrapped around a host and flowering — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dodder is an obligate parasite of certain plants. This unusual member of the morning glory family is also known as “Angel’s Hair” and “Strangle Weed.” Like Indian pipe, another parasitic plant, Dodder has no chlorophyll to manufacture its own food, so nutrients and water are obtained from its host plant. Its yellow to orange twining stems can form stringy, dense orange mats that cover its host plants, and it will often climb over other nearby plants as well. This vine twines counterclockwise around stems and other parts of its host. Look for it in mid- July through September in damp fields or on stream and pond banks.

Dodder germinates from seeds produced in earlier years. The new plants have only a few days to find a suitable host plant, or they will die. After connecting with the host plant, dodder will degrade at the soil level where it originated and is then free of any soil contact. Dodder has no leaves or roots, but it does produce flowers and then seeds. The only way new plants can be re-established is from seed produced at least the previous year or even earlier.

Dodder feeds on its host by means of small tubes called haustoria that pierce into the hosts leaf or stem vascular system. One type will siphon water from the xylem, and another type will obtain food (minerals, sugars etc.) from the phloem of the host plant. In this way, dodder obtains essential nutrients and water for its own survival at the expense of its host plant. Five-angled dodder Cuscuta pentagona, a very common dodder species found here in Connecticut does not have specialized host plant preferences.

Since not all plants are suitable hosts for dodder, and because it needs to find a host quickly, dodder has a unique ability to “sniff out” certain plant chemicals and will gravitate toward these plants soon after germination. Notable hosts are jewelweed in the wild and tomatoes in crop cultivation. Thus, if you are interested in finding dodder, in July and August check out places where jewelweed abounds. Look for mats of orange, stringy vines covering the tops of this plant and perhaps on nearby Joe-pye weed and goldenrods.

Yellow strings of dodder encompassing plants in a field — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dodder seeds can survive in soil for twenty years or more and will germinate as conditions are suitable. Because of the longevity of its seed viability, dodder may be found either yearly in the same area or appear there years later. Flooding can also relocate the seeds, so it may appear along various spots along the same stream or pond. Look for its small white flowers appearing in clusters along the vine in late July and August.

Once dodder is firmly established on the host plant in the wild, research has shown that removal of the host plants and the dodder, especially before seeds are set on the dodder, will be more effective than other methods. This may need to be done yearly until any seed bank is exhausted. Try to scout early in July as dodder is getting established. Sometimes small dodder plants can be removed from the host. Some people with dodder persisting in extensive areas have burned these sites, and this will also severely impact any seeds on the ground.

Dodder is an aggressive plant, but it is not considered invasive because it is a native plant. It has received the dubious honor of making the Federal List of Noxious Weeds, though. Although its hosts may be severely weakened, dodder does not always kill its host. While that is not reasonable cause to let it run rampant in a garden, in the wild it is in more of a tournament for survival. May the best plant win…

Queen Anne’s Lace

Posted on August 23, 2025August 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Among the plants that have naturalized across this country, is the seemingly ubiquitous Queen Anne’s lace also known as the wild carrot. This herbaceous biennial originated around the Mediterranean region and western Asia. It is thought to be a wild ancestor of the carrot as both wild and domesticated carrots existed at least 5000 years ago. Anyone weeding or digging out Queen Anne’s lace from garden beds will notice the distinctive carrot smell of the taproots.

Pass almost any sunny roadside or field and you’ll find the delicate white lacy blossoms swaying in the breeze. Plants start out as small rosettes of fern-like, green leaves. The seeds can germinate throughout the growing season if enough moisture is present. Typically seeds germinate within a couple of years but they can remain viable for at least 7 years. A taproot develops where energy is stored for next year’s growth. The following spring, the plant produces more leaves, stalks and flowers. The lacy leaves are finely divided and tripinnate. The hairy, solid stem can grow up to 3 feet before the flower buds are formed.

Queen Anne’s lace blossoms typically appear from June through August in most areas. The tiny white flowers are clustered into a flat, terminal umbel from 2 to 4 inches across. Curiously, many flower heads have a single pinkish to purplish floret in the center. The color is due to the pigment, anthocyanin. For at least 150 years, botanists have been trying to figure out what purpose the dark colored floret serves. It is thought that perhaps it serves as an insect attractant but this remains to be confirmed.

Each floret on the umbel can produce 2 seeds. Since there might be 1000 florets making up the umbel, saying this plant is a prolific seeder is an understatement. In at least 35 states, it is considered a noxious weed as it displaces native vegetation. As the seeds ripen, the flower head curls inward like a closed fist or bird’s nest and turns brown. Eventually the dried seed head might detach from the stem and then it can be blown like a tumbleweed spreading its cache. This plant is especially problematic if it occurs where domesticated carrots are grown for their seed. Cross pollination could take place and the resulting seed would be useless. The seeds have hooked spines and can readily attach to cloth and fur.

An insect on a white floret. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Aside from its lovely, lacy flowers that hold up well in cut flower arrangements, Queen Anne’s lace serves as a host plant for the eastern black swallowtail caterpillar as well as providing a source of nectar for other butterfly species, bees and other pollinators.

Several seed companies offer varieties of Queen Anne’s lace that were bred or selected for their dark coloration. ‘Purple Kisses’ sports umbels in shades of dark purple and pink and is available from Johnny’s Seed. ‘Chocolate Lace’ from Seed Therapy comes in shades of burgundy, chocolate and dusty rose. Although I have not grown these varieties, I suspect they would also self-seed. A better option might be to try Ammi majus, called the Bishop’s flower or False Queen Anne’s lace. It is an annual with similar lacy, white flowers but I have not found it to be a prolific seeder especially if the flowers are used for cutting and not left to go to seed.

Being a member of the parsley (Apiaceae) family, Queen Anne’s lace is edible but not very flavorful. The flowers are sometimes used to make jelly. The root could be eaten when young but gets tough very fast. The seeds especially have been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. Reputedly this aromatic herb has many uses ranging from a love potion to soothing the digestive system, supporting the liver and for kidney and bladder diseases. If you are tempted to sample some Queen Anne’s lace, be very careful to identify it correctly. Other plants, such as poison hemlock have similar flowers and foliage but deadly outcomes.
As to how Queen Anne’s lace got its name, there are a number of anecdotes. Perhaps it resembled the lace collar or headdress of Queen Anne (1655-1714). Another story goes that she was tatting lace and pricked her figure leaving a drop of blood on the lace, representing the dark floret. Or it could be that the dark floret was thought to be the Queen and the white ones her maids. Geoffrey Grigson, an English botanist, conjectured that the name was in honor of St. Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary and the patron saint of lacemakers.
However Queen Anne’s lace got its name, one has to be in awe of how widespread it has become. Because plants are short-lived but prolific seeders, one way to control it is to remove the flower heads before they go to seed. They do make delightful cut flowers so make use of them in arrangements. You get to enjoy them and there is less seed out there.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

Favorite Summer Plants For Hummingbirds

Posted on July 26, 2025July 28, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home and Garden Education Center

Every spring I make a list of the plants that hummingbirds visited the most the year before, and then my search at garden centers and nurseries begins in earnest. The plants I look for are the ones that not only hummingbirds seem to benefit from the most, but also the ones that bloom the longest. I also select the plants whose flowers I enjoy as well.

Although annuals generally have the longest bloom time, there are some perennial ornamentals that are very attractive to hummingbirds and are worth considering for a garden or a landscape. Including a small group of these plants would be a great benefit to hummingbirds as they visit your property.

Obedient plants, Physostegia virginiana, can bloom from early June through September. These drought tolerant perennials may get 3 feet tall and some will slowly spread. If that trait is a problem, The ‘Manners’ series such as the white ‘Miss Manners’ obedient plants are not spreaders. The flowers are also attractive to butterflies, especially tiger swallowtails, and pollinators.

Native swamp milkweed, Asclepias incarnata, is also visited by hummingbirds. This plant likes moister soils than most milkweed, and mine is planted near a birdbath that gets emptied frequently to add fresh water. This milkweed, along with butterfly weed A. tuberosa, can be deadheaded to promote rebloom.

Hyssops, Agastache spp., are also a favorite of hummingbirds, and most have a long bloom period, some starting in late spring. The ‘Kudos’ series with small flowers that are yellow, pink or orange are the ones visited the most by hummingbirds on my property. Another favorite is ‘Boa’, which has larger flower spikes lasting a good three months. Deadheading all will prolong bloom time.

Annual flowering plants that are a favorite of hummingbirds include Salvias, cardinal climber, Fuschias, Lantanas and Cupheas. All are easy to grow, and all but the cardinal vine can be used in containers, hangers and window boxes.

The cardinal climber, Ipomena x multifida, is an attractive, fast-growing annual vine that has small, brilliant red trumpet- like flowers. You can save seeds from this plant and use them next year. One plant can grow to fill a large trellis, and you may need to corral it in if it starts reaching out for nearby plants.

Of the Cupheas, the ones most visited, in my experience, are the large firecracker plant, C. vermillionaire, and the smaller one, C. schumannii, also called the orange cigar plant. The former is superior, with a compact, mounding habit and continuous bloom of orange tubular flowers until frost. If the smaller cigar plant is planted directly in the garden, give it some room as it sprawls somewhat.

Purple flowers on a dark purple upright stem. — Black and Blue Salvia. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Annual Salvias like the “Rockin’ series, the ‘Black and Blue’, ‘Roman Red’ and the ‘Hot Lips’ salvias are the ones I always have in my containers or plant directly in the ground in spaces I leave for them. I would not venture to guess which ones hummingbird prefer, as they visit all of these throughout the day.

There are a couple of shrubs that I learned by chance observance are favorites of hummingbirds. These are Weigelas, and butterfly bushes, Buddleia davidii. There are Weigelas that bloom only in the spring, some that bloom in spring and then again later in the summer through fall, like the ‘Sonic Blooms’, and some that bloom throughout the year, like ‘Crimson Kisses’ and ‘ Peach Kisses’. The last two are smaller shrubs which have a rounded habit.

The plants I have included in this brief article are only a small example of plants that the average gardener can include on their property in gardens or containers of some type. I will mention that while I do have a hummingbird feeder, the hummers I see are favoring actual flowers over that source of food. Downy woodpeckers and orioles do visit the feeder instead, so it is useful to them, I guess. I may start calling it my downy feeder, at least during the summer.

Seeing Ghosts in Your Garden?

Posted on July 19, 2025July 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

While meandering around my backyard this past weekend, I spotted a striking plant which I had never seen before. At first instinct, I assumed it was a particularly unique fungal species and snapped a couple pictures. My curiosity having been piqued, I did some research and learned that it was in fact not a fungus, but a parasitic plant reliant on fungus – Monotropa uniflora. Its name is self-descriptive; Monotropa, illustrating the single turn of its shepherd hook shape, and uniflora, depicting the lone flower produced on each stem. It is also known as “Ghost Plant” or “Indian Pipe.”

Pale white stem and leaf structures of Monotropa uniflora. — Monotropa uniflora in a shaded area. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Perhaps the most unusual feature of Monotropa uniflora is its color, or lack thereof. While mostly white-colored overall, hues of pink can be visible along with black flecks spread along the plant. The translucent nature of the plant is derived from the absence of chlorophyll, a green pigment and key component allowing autotropic plants to perform photosynthesis.

Autotrophs are organisms that convert abiotic (non-living) sources of energy, like sunlight, into organic compounds they can use for food production. Most plants have this ability, using the chemical reactions in photosynthesis to produce carbohydrates for their own nourishment. However, Monotropa uniflora, a heterotrophic plant, cannot carry out such processes. They seek the organic compounds needed to sustain themselves from external sources. Autotrophs are often referred to as “producers” and heterotrophs “consumers” to illustrate this distinction. Since Monotropa uniflora is not directly dependent on sunlight for survival, it is often found in shaded areas and forests.

This all begs the question – where does Monotropa uniflora get its nourishment from? The answer comes in the form of its parasitization of mycorrhizal fungi and surrounding trees. The term “mycorrhizal” is used to describe fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of its host plant. The interaction is mutually beneficial – mycorrhizal fungi receive sugars and carbon from its host, which in turn is aided by the fungus in its absorption of water and nutrients. The root system of the host plant is used as a transportation highway in these interactions.

Monotropa uniflora inserts itself as a third player in the relationship, disrupting its balance. In a clever sleight of hand, the parasite tricks the mycorrhizal fungi into thinking it is forming another symbiotic relationship as its root system interacts with the fungal mycelium. However, the benefits of this interaction are strictly one-sided as Monotropa siphons the carbohydrates, initially derived from the mycorrhizae’s host trees, for its own consumption. This is not severely detrimental to the fungi or host plants, but it certainly detracts from the vigor of their symbiotic relationship and the amount of available resources transferred between the two entities.

Monotropa uniflora has a wide range of distribution throughout the U.S., so it is possible to see these fascinating plants in action in a variety of locations. Its flowering season ranges from early summer to early fall and it thrives even after seeds are released.

A microcosm of ecological phenomena, Monotropa uniflora is quite the unique find. It is enthralling not only to observe, but also to know the complex interactions that occur just below ground. I say we can overlook its parasitic tendencies and appreciate its role in the delicate balance of our natural world – after all, everyone loves a good villain, right?

Need help identifying something interesting in your garden? We’re here to help! The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

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