Plant Health

Vascular Invaders – Verticillium and Botryosphaeria fungi

By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Close-up of a cut tree branch showing exposed wood rings and textured bark, held by a hand in an indoor setting.
Ring-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Verticillium wilt. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Vascular plant diseases present a complex series of challenges, both in diagnosis and management. Pathogens of this nature invade the roots and vascular system of their host, stifling the ability of water and essential nutrients to travel throughout the plant. Without proper vascular function, leaves become yellow and wilted. Abnormal discoloration and the pattern which it forms within stem or branch tissue is often the key indication that a vascular disease may be present.  

Two of the most prominent vascular pathogens are fungal species of Verticillium or Botryosphaeria. Both infect a wide array of hosts, overlapping to encompass many ornamental trees, shrubs, and vegetable crops. While there are many similarities between the diseases these pathogens cause, there are also defining characteristics which distinguish one from the other.  

Verticillium dahliae and verticillium albo-atrum have the potential to cause verticillium wilt. Hosts span from vegetables like tomatoes and potatoes to trees like maple and ash. The fungal structures of either species inhabit soil where infected plant debris has decomposed. There, they can survive for 10-15 years. During the pathogen’s dormant phase, survival structures called microsclerotia germinate. Hyphae (filamentous fungal growth structures) are emitted from these structures and can extend to potential hosts within limited distances. Verticillium inoculates hosts by entering root tips or other areas of root formation, breaking through exterior layers to reach the vascular tissue inside. Conidia (spores) are formed in this location, dispersing to other potential hosts, while Verticillium continues to spread throughout the plant.  

Although Verticillium wilt symptoms differ among hosts, abnormalities like leaf yellowing (chlorosis) or browning, wilting, and branch dieback raise suspicion of infection across the board. Symptoms may be isolated to one side of the plant or individual branches. Branch or stem discoloration is another key indicator of infection, accompanied by a streaking and a characteristic ring-shaped brown pattern on the interior of woody tissue. Damage is often concentrated in the lower areas of the plant, as Verticillium invades hosts from their base, working upwards. 

The persistence and longevity of Verticillium structures in soil makes crop rotation and the destruction of diseased tissue crucial to disease management. While it’s usually best to remove the diseased plant entirely, woody plants with minor infections can survive for several more years, provided affected branches are pruned away and tools used for pruning are disinfected after use. Rubbing alcohol is a good choice, but there are several other disinfectants on the market labeled for use with tools. Do not compost or use diseased tissue for wood chips, as remaining fungal structures will survive for several years and may infect new host plants.  

Close-up cross-section of a woody stem showing internal tissue discoloration and visible growth rings against a light background.
Wedge-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Botryosphaeria infection. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Botryosphaeria canker and dieback are attributed to several causal agents in the Botryosphaeriaceae family. Botryosphaeria is an opportunistic pathogen, choosing already stressed plants to infect and taking advantage of their weakened defense systems. Stress can stem from many sources—frequently environmental challenges, insect infestations, or prior instances of disease. While this group of pathogens has an extensive range of hosts, it is often observed on woody ornamentals—viburnum or rhododendron, for example—and trees like dogwood or maple. Fungal structures overwinter on previously infected tissue, or as endophytes which silently colonize plants without causing symptoms until they become weakened. Botryosphaeria uses many routes of entry when invading its hosts, including open wounds, cracks, or lenticels—porous openings on branch and stem tissue used for gas exchange.  

As a vascular pathogen, wilting and dieback are characteristic symptoms of disease, accompanied by necrotic patches on bark and branches. Branches become girdled, and sunken cankers are evident. Depending on the host, sap may ooze from these areas, and black fungal sporulation (pycnidia) may be visible. Unlike verticillium wilt, interior vascular discoloration due to Botryosphaeria infection appears in wedges, resembling a slice of pie.  

To manage Botryosphaeria canker and dieback, it is important to minimize sources of stress which can leave plants susceptible to infection. Appropriate pruning and sanitation practices, routine fertilization in accordance with the plant’s needs, and protection from environmental stressors (drought, heat, or cold) are all vital to maintaining vigor. Take care to prevent mechanical injury and wounds, minimizing the potential modes of entry for the pathogen.  

As is the case with all plant diseases, laboratory analysis is required for an accurate diagnosis. If you suspect your plant has been infected by a vascular disease, submit branch tissue to the UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory for evaluation. Remember to collect tissue that is just beginning to appear symptomatic, as the lab is unable to diagnose plants that are already dead.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 7, 2026

Tree Burls

By: Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Large burl protruding from the trunk of an old sugar maple tree in a landscaped yard beside a white house. A person stands nearby for scale, highlighting the burl’s unusually large size and rough, moss-covered bark.
Photo by Pamm Cooper

Burls are sound, hard, woody swellings or protrusions that form on the trunks, branches, or roots of trees. They often appear as rounded or ridged masses with normal bark tissue. Burls are benign and are the result of a response in growth to outside stresses. The normal bark texture of the tree will be on the exterior surface of the burl. 

The exact cause of burl formation is a mystery, but these growths are formed by abnormal cell proliferation by the xylem. This growth can be triggered by stress factors such as environmental injury, insect feeding damage, or infections from fungal or bacterial pathogens. Some are thought to be the result of genetic factors that trigger abnormal growth without outside influences. Most burls are not causes of concern to the health of otherwise normally growing trees. Removal of burls from trees is not recommended as it will cause more harm than if the burl remains on the tree.  

Some tree species seem to have more burls than others. In our area oaks, maples, willows, cherry and elms have more of a tendency to form burls than other tree species. Sometimes small groups of the same tree species in a tight area may all have burls. Whether the cause is environmental, genetic or both would require a good amount of research. Even then, the root cause may be impossible to discover. 

Recently, a friend showed me a tree with one of the largest burls I have seen. This tree was located about a mile into the woods and was a good distance from the trail, but easily visible. It was almost five feet high and went almost completely around the trunk of the mature tree it was growing on. 

Because of the nature of unique formation and structure of burls, grain formation is unusual, creating swirling patterns that can be very beautiful. A bird’s eye pattern is the result of an aborted adventitious bud. This makes wood galls a highly prized find by woodworkers, who use the wood especially for veneers and bowls.   

There are woody galls caused by gall- forming mites, wasps or by fungal pathogens that are sometimes mistaken for burls. These include the black knot galls that form on infected black cherry and other Prunus species and are caused by a fungal pathogen, as well as horned galls on oaks that result from feeding by gall wasps. These types of growths can be harmful to the host tree.  

To tell if an abnormal growth on a tree is a burl or a gall, compare the outer surface and texture of the growth. Burls have smooth, rounded surfaces that are fully covered in bark. The tissue is solid wood and will have intricate, swirling grain patterns.  Galls typically have a rough texture to their surface, somewhat tumor-like and with vertical or horizontal ridges. The interior is not solid wood, but instead may be papery, pulpy or otherwise somewhat softer than the wood and is usually discolored. If cut open, there may be a wasp larva or a mite inside the gall. While both a gall and a burl result from excessive cell division, the causes are very different. 

If you want to learn more, a good article on tree burls can be found on this link from the University of New Hampshire written by forestry field specialist Greg Jordan.

The UConn Home Garden EducationOfficesupports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extensioncenteratextension.uconn.edu/locations.   

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 25, 2026

Water your CT Garden with Confidence

By: Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Watering is an essential skill for gardeners that is often overlooked. “How often should I water and how much?” is a frequent question with new gardens or when establishing new plants.  

There’s no magic formula for watering your plants. The soil texture, local climate, and even the metabolism of your plants can affect how often water needs to be replenished. So how do we know what to do? Over time, experienced gardeners form a sense of their soil and their plant’s needs, and perfect their watering practices.   

Pepper plant growing in a garden bed with a drip irrigation hose nearby.What plants really need 

Most established garden plants require about 1 inch of water per week from rainfall and irrigation combined. When mother nature doesn’t provide this through rainfall, we can supplement by adding about 0.62 gallons of water per square foot in a garden bed.  However, actual needs vary with soil type, weather conditions, plant species, and stage of growth.   

Knowing your soil texture can help you anticipate what your watering schedule might look like. Sandy soils are known for rapid drainage, which often means they require more frequent watering. Clay soils, on the other hand, hold water for longer periods and generally need less frequent irrigation. Plants also have preferences for different soil types, many of which are related to water availability and drainage. Choosing the right plant for the right site can help ensure it receives adequate moisture. 

A plant's water demand may vary depending on its stage of growth. For example, we tend to encourage additional support for plants that are fruiting/flowering, or plants that have just recently been transplanted. Keep a close eye on these plants and their water needs during stressful periods. Newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials need this additional monitoring and support through their first year of establishment in the landscape. You may find that you’re watering them more frequently during this time. This can be totally normal.  

Sometimes, soil can appear dark even when it hasn’t been watered, so don’t rely on appearances alone.  Your hands are one of the most reliable tools for checking soil moisture. Dig a few inches below the surface and feel the soil. If it feels cool and slightly moist, watering can likely wait. If it feels dry and crumbly, it's time to water. If the soil feels saturated or releases water when squeezed, allow it to dry somewhat before watering again. 

Water Deeply 

Giving your plants a good soak does more than just help them in the short term. Deep watering provides a slow, thorough soak that reaches the plant’s root zone rather than just the soil surface. This encourages deeper root growth and can improve drought tolerance, often allowing for less frequent watering.For most vegetables and perennials, water should reach at least 6–12 inches into the soil. Trees and shrubs may benefit from moisture penetrating even deeper into the root zone. 

Apply water slowly at the dripline so it soaks in without pooling or running off. Use a soaker hose, or a regular hose on a slow trickle over the root zone of your plants. Avoid high-flow sprinklers, since they may cause runoff. Keep in mind that water movement depends on soil type.  

Check the soil every so often to ensure that water is penetrating deep enough and set a timer for yourself. After a few watering cycles, you will become familiar with the timing and flow rate for your specific soil and plants. 

Stay Consistent 

Don’t automatically change your watering habits just because the temperature changes.  Hot weather can increase water demand, but it is essential to always check the soil first. During periods of heat and drought stress, plants can close their stomata and reduce water use as a survival mechanism. While this may slow water uptake, plants still need adequate soil moisture. Overwatering, however, may not be helpful. Instead, roots can sit in saturated soil and develop diseases like root rot. Always check the top few inches of soil to ensure water is needed. 

When weather starts to cool off in the fall, continue your watering practices. By watering until the ground freezes, you help your plants, survive the winter. The effects of winter burn can be reduced when evergreens enter the winter properly hydrated.  

Watering is an essential task in the garden year-round. It is important to know your plants, your soil, and the climate you are growing in to ensure you are giving your plants enough hydration. By watering only when needed, watering deeply, and continuing these practices well into the fall, you will be sure to have healthy plants year round! 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.   

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 11, 2026

What’s Going Down with Your CT Basil This Summer?

By: N. Raymond and Emily Leahy, UConn Home Garden Education Office

What's Going Down with Your CT Basil This Summer?
By: N. Raymond and Emily Leahy, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Basil growth is ramping up as we enter July. As these tasty plants begin to flourish, it’s important to keep an eye out for a pathogen known as downy mildew. Basil downy mildew (Peronospora belbahrii) severely impacts numerous varieties of basil (Ocimum spp.)  worldwide. The disease, caused by an oomycete pathogen, is especially prevalent in sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum). Oomycetes, also known as water molds, behave similarly to fungi yet are equipped with different structures and means of infecting plant material. Using water or water-based secretions, their reproductive cells (known as zoospores) adhere to the surfaces of plant tissue to inoculate their hosts.  

Leaves suffering from basil downy mildew exhibit yellow/pale discoloration (chlorosis) and browning on their upper surfaces. Chlorotic lesions expand and become necrotic, with leaves eventually falling prematurely. Small sac-like structures develop on the underside of leaves and are visible as purple-gray dots. These are called sporangia, which are specialized structures that can form, store, and release spores. Basil downy mildew prefers moist and humid conditions that encourage the growth and development of the pathogen.  

P. belbahrii must occupy a living host to survive and reproduce, making it an obligate parasite. The pathogen can only overwinter in warm environments where hosts will not freeze during cold temperatures. Sporangia germinate on hosts under high humidity and moderate temperatures. The germ tube of P. belbahrii enters basil leaves through microscopic openings called stomata where it can grow, expanding what is known as its hyphae network (filamentous growth structures of fungi and oomycetes) between plant cells. As the disease progresses, P. belbahrii will colonize the leaves, stems, and seeds of its host. Symptoms are often visible within 5-10 days of inoculation. However, infected hosts may also appear asymptomatic. Typically, sporulation of P. belbahrii occurs at night in conjunction with moist and humid conditions. Sporangiophores break through stomata on the underside of leaves, from which sporangia are released and travel to inoculate new leaves. Extended periods of leaf wetness, accompanied by moderate temperatures and high humidity, encourages prolific growth of P. belbahrii.  

Basil downy mildew can be controlled through cultural and chemical methods. Since P.  belbahrii thrives in moist conditions, it is crucial to maintain proper air circulation and space between plants. This can be achieved by planting at appropriate distances when you start your garden, or by thinning your plants later in the growing season. Planting seeds that are certified free of the pathogen minimizes the potential for disease as well. Utilizing drip irrigation or similar efficient watering systems can decrease standing moisture on and around basil plants. Avoid overhead watering or sprinkler systems. Fungicides are labeled for effective use against this pathogen, if chemical control is deemed necessary. Some cultivars with resistance to basil downy mildew are included in the table below.  

Type  Variety 
 

 

 

 

Sweet 

Amazel 

Everleaf 

Evi 

Eleonora 

Prospera 

Prospera Active 

Rutgers Devotion 

Rutgers Obsession 

Rutgers Passion 

Rutgers Thunderstruck 

Purple  Red Rubin 

Prospera Red 

Scented  Sweet Dani (lemon) 

Lime Basil 

Our colleagues at Cornell have performed quite a bit of basil downy mildew research, which can be accessed at https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/basil-downy-mildew/. Visit this link to learn more. 

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 4, 2026

Wet and Wild: the Complex Lives of Cedar Rust Fungi

By Emily Leahy and Dr. Nick Goltz, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Orange, gelatinous cedar apple rust gall attached to a green cedar or juniper branch, with scaly bark visible in the background.
The telial horns observed on this Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) are beginning to dry up, but their gelatinous form and bold orange color are unmistakable.

We all know that old saying, “April showers bring May fungi!” (No? Just me?). All joking aside, you may have noticed that the recent wet spring weather lead many fungi to break dormancy, release spores, and wind up in new places. While growers and gardeners often find themselves preparing for the season by promoting airflow between plants, increasing soil drainage, and applying preventive fungicides when really needed, it’s hard to deny the spectacle of spring fungi and the beauty they bring to our spring gardens; and few are as spectacular as cedar rusts (Again, only me?)! 

Cedar rusts are flashy diseases caused by multiple species of the fungi in the genus Gymnosporangium. In the case of cedar apple rust, a disease we see all the time here in Connecticut, the causal agent is the fungus Gymnosporangium juniper-virginianaeGymnosporangium is a group of heteroecious fungi, meaning that they require two hosts to complete their life cycles. Species within the Juniperus genus are primary hosts of cedar rusts with plants such as apple, crabapple, hawthorn, or quince usually serving as a secondary host, though close relatives such as pear or chokeberry may occasionally be seen with cedar rust.  

Spores – small reproductive structures produced by fungi – are released from fungal structures to infect other hosts. Cedar rusts, attention seekers that they are, utilize multiple types of spores to get to their host plants of choice. Beginning with the secondary hosts in late summer, spores called aeciospores are produced and distributed by wind and rain, traveling to inoculate nearby juniper trees. Wet, mild weather in early fall creates the perfect conditions for these aeciospores to germinate, eventually resulting in the formation of large galls on the primary host.  

Juniper galls are irregularly shaped structures on the plant and range in color from gray to dark red. Circular indentations are present on the gall’s surface, through which bizarre looking telial horns protrude in the spring the year after the host is first inoculated with the disease. These structures are first colored dark brown and have a dry appearance but later become gelatinous and bright orange as they mature and expand for a brief time during moist spring conditions. The surfaces of telial horns are coated in teliospores which later germinate to form the next important player in the cedar apple rust disease cycle, basidiospores. After releasing spores, the telial horns will dry up and fall off. The basidiospores are then distributed by wind and rain to inoculate secondary hosts such as apples or crabapples. Immature leaves with wet surfaces are the most susceptible targets for infection.  

The next stage of the disease cycle kicks off with yellow-orange lesions that appear on the upper surfaces of leaves. A halo of red tissue may surround the edges of these spots, giving a dramatic bullseye appearance. Tiny, raised, fungal structures known as pycnia develop within the leaf lesions and on fruit surfaces. Pycnia produce pycniospores (notice a theme here?), which leads to the development of aecia during mid-summer. Yellow or brown lesions appear on the underside of leaves, from which the tubular aecia and of course, their aeciospore-covered surface, protrudes. During late summer under dry environmental conditions, aeciospores are released and travel to nearby juniper hosts where the disease cycle begins again.  

You might be thinking, “enough with the spore-talk! What should I do about cedar rusts if I see signs of them?” Rest easy - although cedar rust fungi are complex and dramatic, they typically don’t cause lasting harm, and there are plenty of management strategies available to mitigate their damage. Pruning can be used to promote airflow and eliminate galls from junipers before telial horns have an opportunity to develop, and appropriate fungicides may be applied to secondary hosts as a preventative measure. And for those thinking of purchasing a new tree, know that many apple and crabapple cultivars are available at the nursery with various levels of resistance to cedar rust.  

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant May 30, 2026

Beech Bark Disease – One More Problem For Connecticut Beech Trees

By Pamm Cooper UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Rough, cracked beech bark covered in circular, raised scale infestations with a hand resting on the trunk for size reference.
Evidence of insect damage on beech. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American beeches have been suffering from beech leaf disease that is widespread in both Connecticut landscapes and forests. The prognosis for this disease is currently uncertain, but research is investigating treatments and other methods for possible control. This disease is evident from dark bands appearing on the leaves, so homeowners can to some extent seek help from licensed arborists once this symptom is evident.  

Meanwhile, beech bark disease is also becoming a major threat to American beech (Fagus grandifolia) in eastern North America. This disease is a result of an interaction between a scale insect and one of two Nectria fungal pathogens. When these scales are present, beech bark disease has an increased chance of infecting the tree. The scale responsible was introduced from Europe and first appeared in Nova Scotia around 1890, according to researchers. Within forty years, the fungal pathogen combined with heavy infestations of the beech scale were killing trees, although only in Eastern Canada and Maine. 

The scale insect, Cryptococcus fagisuga, will attack American beech, European beech (Fagus sylvatica) as well as Chinese and Oriental beeches, F. enleriana and F. orientalis, respectively. The scale insects pierce through the thin bark of the beeches with a stylet and inject enzymes to help digest the plant material. These small wounds in the tree can now be the entry point of fungal pathogens, including the two native Nectria spp. that can cause beech bark disease.  

Adults mate and females lay eggs in mid- summer. Eggs hatch from late summer until early winter and form a waxy white covering. These scale insects often go unnoticed until they develop a “woolly” appearance which is evident in the winter. The immature scales overwinter on the tree, and the next year will become adults. If you notice white woolly scale insects on beeches, especially on trunks, these are likely the beech bark scale. In two to three years, scale populations can reach high levels where the trunks may appear white. Scales do not have wings, but they can be blown by the wind to new trees or transported by birds or even humans.  

Disease symptoms take several years to develop after scales appear. Anyone hiking through the forests of Connecticut has probably noticed disfigured bark caused by the Nectria pathogens responsible for beech bark disease. In severely infected trees, living tissue just beneath the outer bark is killed. Cankers appear looking like rough, raised, circular disks. Fungal fruiting bodies appear in the center of these raised circles. Sometimes there are so many red fruiting bodies of the fungus that large areas of the trunk appear red. Over time, bark may crack and split off. Trunks of weakened trees can snap in high wind events. Nectria kills areas of woody tissue, sometimes creating cankers on the tree stem and large branches which in turn weaken the tree. Infected trees can thus be susceptible to other diseases and insects. 

So, this is not a happy tale, but homeowners do have some good news.  Controlling the scale on any ornamental or native beeches on a property resulting in the absence of these scale insects will prevent beech bark disease. Because beech can form thick stands, thin some smaller trees out so the remaining trees will retain vigor. Make sure trees that have no scale present, and no disfigured bark are left with good space between them.  

In case you may need an arborist, the Connecticut Tree Protective Association has licensed arborists that can help you assess the situation with your trees. A licensed arborist will be the best choice in any case. They will be educated in tree insect and disease problems and their solutions, if any are available. Contact the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station Forestry and Horticulture department for the latest news and control options for disease and insect problems. Hopefully, your beech trees will never have problems. 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant January 25, 2026