Your Raised Beds Worked Hard All Season—Garden Pros Share 6 Ways to Help Them Recover Before Winter
The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other gardening professionals recommend their top tips to help your garden beds prepare for winter.
Autumn
Should You Lime This Fall?
Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall
Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall
The Spruce – Heather Zidack joins other gardening professionals to recommend fall blooming annuals for extending your season of color.
Tips for Harvesting Herbs
With the Dog Days of summer behind us and Labor Day on the horizon, there’s still plenty of time to both enjoy your garden’s beauty and bounty as well as finish harvesting aromatic herbs for culinary use. Even a small pot or planting of basil, thyme, rosemary and the like can supply a fair amount of flavor to your favorite dishes.
Methods of harvesting vary from fresh use to frozen to dried depending on your preferences. Regardless of how you intend to prepare them, follow these few suggestions for harvesting. Start with clean hands, clean scissors or clippers and a clean container to place your herbs in. Make sure your scissors or clippers are sharp to make clean cuts.
Most herbs can be harvested throughout the summer. Annual herbs can be picked until they start looking ragged or get hit by the frost. Typically, late August through early September is the last time to clip perennial herbs as the tender new growth that is encouraged by harvesting could be damaged by the frost if plants are harvested too late in the season.
Also, as a general rule of thumb, herbs grown for their aromatic leaves are most pungent when harvested before flowering. This may leave some pollinator friendly gardeners with a dilemma as the flowers of many herb plants, like oregano and thyme, are especially attractive to pollinating bees and others. One way to deal with this if plants are of good size is to harvest half to two-thirds of the plants earlier in the season before they flower and later, cut the spent flowering stems back. Usually that gives you a second harvest about now.
Always harvest herbs in the morning, shortly after the dew dries but before the heat of day sets in. The essential oils are highest before the heat causes them to evaporate. When harvesting herbs for their flowers, like chamomile, borage and calendula, pick the blossoms just before fully opened. Seed heads of dill, fennel or coriander can be cut right into paper bags so as not to lose any seeds. Leave a few heads if you want these plants to self-seed. I had not had to purchase dill seeds for over 20 years in my old garden as they just reseeded themselves.
How much of a herb plant’s foliage can you remove? Anywhere from 30 to 70 percent depending on the plant. Quick growing plants such as oregano, mints, parsley and basil can generally have more of their foliage removed than slower growing potted rosemary and, in my yard, tarragon. Collect handfuls of leafy stems and bring inside to inspect before processing.
Plants can be rinsed if they have dust or dirt on them but if harvested after a rain or from a mulched bed, often they are clean enough not to need washing. Pick through them for any insects, damaged leaves or debris. If plants need to be rinsed, shake them and then spread them out on cloth or paper towels to dry. Generally, herbs that are not used fresh are either frozen or more typically dried.
Freezing herbs is quite easy. Simply chop them in small enough pieces to add to your water filled ice cube tray and freeze. Once frozen, the cubes can be popped out and stored in freezer bags or containers. Use for flavoring in soups, stews and other culinary dishes.
Herbs can be dried in little bundles, on screens, in a microwave, oven or dehydrator depending on your preferences. If you have a dry, airy, dimly lit area, you might want to make small bundles of herbs to hang upside down to dry. Seed heads, such as dill, can be bundled together and placed upside down in a paper bag. Punch a few holes in the bag, gather it at the top and hang to dry. Seeds will fall into the bottom of the bag. Leafy herbs could be spread out and placed on drying screens. Air drying works best when we have periods of low humidity.
Since this is often not the case in August, many opt to dry herbs in a microwave or dehydrator. Old gas stoves with an always on pilot light in the oven make ideal drying places. Except for the dill seeds which I bag, the microwave works best for me. Not only is it a quick way to dry herbs but they keep their nice green color. The key to successful microwave drying is to just dry small batches of herbs at one time and experiment with the timing. Herbs should be placed on a plate between 2 paper towels and then start your microwave from 30 to 60 seconds and see how that works. In between bursts, the herbs can be stirred and the bottom paper towel replaced if it gets too wet. Continue in short bursts until you come up with a good routine for your microwave. I have not used a dehydrator so if using, follow the directions that come with the unit.
Dried herbs are flavorful for at least one year. After drying, crumble them slightly and store in well-sealed glass or plastic jars. I repurpose ones that originally held herbs and spices. Take some time now to preserve some of summer’s best flavors. Come cooler days, you’ll be glad you did.
August: The Month That Shapes Next Year’s Garden
It’s been a strange year. While many gardeners typically start to feel as if their season is starting to wind down in August, some gardens this year seem to finally be hitting their stride. Regardless, with fall just ahead of us, this month provides a fantastic opportunity to reflect, and plan for your next growing season all while the weather is still on your side!
While your garden is still in flower and plants are still well established, it is a great time of year to document this growing season for yourself. Gardeners have used systems of colored golf tees, rocks, or other means to mark out where perennials are in the garden so that they do not disturb them during spring planting or cleanup. Others will sketch out their gardens on graph paper. For perennials, this is a great way to remember what species are planted, and when they flower so that you can shop for additions. This method is particularly useful for vegetable garden beds, which many try to rotate each season. By sketching out what is currently planted, you will be able to identify new locations for next season’s rotation.
It’s always easier to reflect on something while it’s in front of you. Keep a journal and note what went well this season and what didn’t while it is fresh in mind. Include pests and diseases so you are aware of what to scout for next season, before it’s an issue. Even though next year’s conditions may be different, this documentation will help you have an idea of timing, locations, or practices that can be improved on in the next growing season.
While it may not quite be time to start shopping for seeds or starts for next season, note the varieties of vegetables that did well in your garden, and ones that you might skip for next year. Taking note of diseases or pests will also help you with your winter seed shopping by helping you identify if resistant varieties are out there to help you combat those issues. Creating this list now will help you when it comes time for those January seed orders!
If you still want to play in the dirt, this is a good time of year to divide your spring and summer blooming perennials. Division not only provides an opportunity for your plants to have a little extra growing room in the garden bed, but some see it as a way of getting free plants from your garden! Enhance other garden spaces with additional plant material where it may fit. If your plants are healthy and free of pests and disease, you can even share divisions with family, friends or neighbors.
Late summer and fall blooming perennials are best divided in the spring so that they are not expending energy on both flowering and establishment at the same time. Always make sure to follow proper watering guidelines to help any transplanted divisions establish in their new spot in the garden. Even though the plants have been in your garden for a long time, once they are moved the clock resets on their “establishment period.” They’ve taken a hit to their root system and may need your support to recover. Ensure plants are receiving one inch of water per week (roughly 0.62 gallons per sq foot), to help them establish a healthy root system. Always feel the soil to determine whether supplemental water is necessary.
Spring bulbs and Peony roots will be planted in the coming months, so prepare by shopping early! Unique varieties will sell out quickly and you will want to make sure you get what you need for planting time.
We’re also approaching a fine time of year to have your soil nutrition tested so that you’re ready to go next spring! Typically, the springtime sees a rush for soil testing and there can be delays, which mean more time waiting before implementing your fertilizer programs. By testing in the fall, you have your recommendations ready to go when the soil warms up next spring!
Don’t underestimate the value of a detailed gardening journal and a few garden markers to help you remember where things are in your garden, how well they did, and what you may need to watch out for next year! Many successful gardeners have a collection of journals or notes that help them build upon what they learn from season to season. August is the perfect time of year to start documenting those observations while they’re fresh in your mind, and there’s still plenty of gardening left in the year!
Winterize your Garden Gear Before It’s Too Late!
It’s already November! It doesn’t seem like that long ago when we were giving advice about seeding lawns and watering in new fall plantings. Now that the time has changed, the days feel shorter, and the nights are getting colder, it’s important to remember to take the time to properly store your garden equipment and accessories before locking up the shed for the season.
Freezing temperatures are on the way fast. Drain and roll up any hoses to remove tripping hazards from the landscape. Store them inside a garage or shed to keep them out of the elements and lengthen their lifespan of use in the garden. Make sure that your outdoor water systems are properly winterized. Whether that means flushing your irrigation system, or simply shutting off your outside water, don’t forget this important step to protect your pipes! Once lines are turned off, open external valves to relieve any remaining pressure.
Water can not only wreak havoc on pipes but many garden accessories, too. A glass rain gauge left outside can and will freeze and shatter outdoors. Ceramics like pottery and bird baths are susceptible to cracking, so store them either in the shed or upside down in a sheltered area. Stash your garden gnomes, garden flags and solar pathway lights to protect them from fading and damage. Brittle cold, freezing water, and a careless throw of the snow shovel could spell disaster for garden décor left out in the open.
Inside the shed, take a quick inventory. Leftover seed or bagged mulch could be rodent attractants. Seeds should be stored in areas safe from extreme temperatures to preserve germination rates. Bird seed should be stored in animal proof containers. Chemical products like pesticides and fertilizers may be adversely affected by temperature fluctuations and freezing. They could also make a real mess if a water-based or pressurized solution were to burst. Products leftover from the growing season should be evaluated and moved into a space safe from freezing temperatures. Product labels or manufacturers will have storage and disposal information to help you make the best decision about what to do with your garden chemicals at the end of the season.
Winter will be a great time to thoroughly clean, repair, and sharpen tools. Store them somewhere that is easy to get to later so you can make sure your tools are fresh for the new season! If you have to do the seasonal shed shuffle, this is also a great time to rotate the lawn mower and snow thrower to prepare for the first storms of the season.
Speaking of your gas-powered equipment, check your owner’s manuals for winterizing recommendations and instructions to help maintain the life and quality of your equipment. You may need specific maintenance before long term storage. Contact a professional for any maintenance tasks that you do not feel confident performing on your own.
If you’re running out of space in the shed and garage, consider covering lawn furniture with UV and mildew resistant covers. Take down awning covers and temporary structures. I, myself, have fallen victim to the false sense of security of a mild winter, only to be devastated by the collapse of my garden tent in the first, albeit belated, heavy snow.
While all of this seems like common sense, the mad dash from here to the holidays will have many of us pulled in different directions. Our equipment, tools, and garden infrastructure are some of the biggest investments we put into our gardens. Hopefully this short checklist will help you knock out those last few chores that come with maintaining a four season New England garden.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Don’t Let Dry Soil Follow Your Plants Into Winter!
This year, Connecticut’s notably dry summer conditions have continued into fall. According to the U.S. Drought Monitor, all counties are abnormally dry for this time of year, and some are even considered to be in a moderate drought. Thus, many trees, shrubs, and perennials are heading into winter low on moisture. These conditions combined with the dry air, low precipitation, and fluctuating temperatures characteristic of Connecticut winters can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided. Many of your plants will benefit from a deep final soak before the ground freezes.
Fall drought stress often doesn’t show up until spring, or even the following summer.Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring, using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened or die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Browning evergreens, delayed leaf-out, and sudden dieback are common signs of plants that went into winter too dry.
Moist soil is so important in the fall and winter months because it provides insulation to the roots. It may seem counter-intuitive, but properly hydrated soil does a much better job at protecting roots from freezing temperatures than dry soil. Root damage occurs for this reason when plants do not receive enough late-season moisture.
Woody plants with shallow root systems require the most supplemental water during extended dry periods in the fall and winter. Trees in this category include maples, birches, willows, and dogwoods. This category also includes perennials, and shrubs like hydrangeas, boxwoods, and azaleas. These plants benefit from mulch to further conserve soil moisture and buffer the roots from temperature swings. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the trunk all the way to the outermost reach of its branches in a doughnut shape.
Evergreens also benefit from fall and winter watering because they do not go dormant in the winter. Evergreens of any age are still actively respiring during the coldest months of the year and will continuously lose water through their needles. If they go into the winter with dry soil, they are more likely to have a difficult spring recovery. This is especially true for those in open or windy areas.
Only water when daytime temperatures are above 40°F, ideally in the late morning or early afternoon so the water can soak in before possible freezing at night. Feel the soil at a depth of 4 to 6 inches to ensure that supplemental water is necessary. Soil should be consistently moist, but not oversaturated or muddy. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because plants cannot absorb water through frozen soil. To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water that can penetrate deeper into the soil with limited runoff. If your hose is already stored away for the winter, and your tree or shrub is small, consider drilling a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and filling that with water for a slow, steady stream. If dry weather continues into the winter and there’s little snow cover, additional watering once or twice a month may be needed until the soil hardens.
A final round of watering now can prevent root injury that won’t be visible until much later. Evergreens, deciduous trees, and other landscape plantings will head into winter stronger with a little extra attention this month. Giving the soil one last watering before it freezes is one of the simplest ways to protect your landscape from winter stress.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Why is My Lilac Blooming in the Fall?
Spring-blooming woody plants like lilacs (especially the old, grafted varieties), ornamental cherries, forsythia, crabapples, azaleas and some magnolias set their flower buds for the following year in early summer shortly after flowering. Usually, flower buds are triggered to bloom by environmental conditions which normally occur after an extended fall and winter cold period, followed by longer days and warming temperatures in spring. It is not typical for these plants to have a second bloom in the fall, but environmental conditions sometimes trigger premature flowering in the fall. Some plants may have only a few flowers rebloom, while other plants may have more flowers open in the fall.
Some of the reasons for this out of season bloom are extended summer heat and drought conditions where supplemental water is lacking. Severe early defoliation, especially from certain fungal pathogens, can also contribute to reblooming. The past two springs have been very wet and diseases such as anthracnose and Pseudocercospora spp. leaf spot may have caused leaves to brown, shrivel and drop early. This stresses the shrub and contributes to out of sync rebloom if other conditions are right. Good sanitation practices such as cleaning up infected leaves will be helpful in reducing fungal infections the following year.
If a plant is healthy and relatively unstressed, the normal seasonal move to cooler weather triggers dormancy. Plants that are deciduous will drop leaves as daylight length and temperature both decrease. Next year’s leaf and flower buds will also remain in a dormant state. Flowering and leafing out will be triggered by increasing daylight and air temperatures the next spring.
If certain woody plants have been stressed during the growing season, however, the change to cooler weather followed by some warmer weather can trigger some of the flower buds to open prematurely. This false dormancy especially affects flower buds near the tops of old-style lilacs where it is sunnier and warmer. Ornamental cherries may show sporadic flowering all over the tree where there is a southern exposure.
While fall reblooming of ornamental trees and shrubs can lead to a disappointing floral display the following spring, it is not harmful to the plant. After a less showy spring bloom period, flower buds will be produced normally. If stressful conditions caused by environmental conditions, insect pests or fungal pathogens are minimal, then a second bloom in autumn is unlikely to occur. Gardeners and landscapers can only do so much, and while the weather is out of our control, making sure plants are maintained properly to avoid stress during the summer will go a long way in helping them remain as healthy as possible.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
We Asked Gardening Pros If You Should Rake Leaves From Garden Beds—And They All Agreed
We Asked Gardening Pros If You Should Rake Leaves From Garden Beds—And They All Agreed
The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other professionals give their insight on raking leaves from your garden beds.