Author: Zidack, Heather

Rotting Logs Teem With Life

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Overlapping clusters of turkey tail mushrooms growing on a fallen log, showing concentric bands of brown, tan, and reddish-orange with bright white edges. Fallen leaves surround the log on the forest floor.
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

When you come upon a rotting log in the woods or along a woodland trail, this may prove to be an interesting encounter with diverse life forms that either gobble the decaying wood or benefit from other creatures that do so. Although these tree trunks themselves are lifeless, they are the main part of a mini eco-system that supports many living things. Mushrooms and other fungi, lichens, insects and other arthropods, slime molds, salamanders, springtails, birds, and mosses are some of the organisms that can be found inside, on, or under these logs. 

One thing that decaying wood releases is carbon, which is part of the natural process that stabilizes climates in the long-term. Forests can absorb carbon, and as trees die and decay over time, the carbon released goes back into the atmosphere. According to German ecologist Sebastian Seibold, “trees both absorb carbon during photosynthesis and release it when they respire, and together with deadwood decomposition, these carbon-inhaling and carbon -exhaling processes help to keep the composition of the atmosphere stable.”  

This year, dead logs have been especially full of certain life forms because of the occurrence of rainfall in the summer and fall that kept the wood wet. Especially evident have been certain fungi and slime molds. 

Wasp nest, tapioca, red raspberry, wolf’s milk and white coral slime molds are easiest to see when their fruiting bodies are present. A good hand lens will help you identify these tiny organisms. Red raspberry slime, for instance, may appear like a smear of red jam on a log where bark is missing when the fruiting bodies appear. The well-named pretzel slime mold is found on moist, punky wood under rotting bark. 

Fungi that feed off of dead wood help to decompose it over time. Turkey tail and false turkey tail fungi often occur in large groups, and their size makes them easy to find. Blue stain cup fungi are so small, you need to look for the dead wood they have caused to stain blue which indicates their presence. Jelly disks like the Ascocoryne sarcoides can be found from fall to winter on dead wood in forests. Bear’s head tooth fungi looks like a mass white icicles hanging down from decaying tree trunks and logs. The violet crust fungi, Phlebiopsis crassa, often covers sections of dead logs where bark is still intact. 

Insects that feed on dead and decaying logs may be better found by pulling off loose bark. Sometimes pillbugs and larvae of wood eating beetles may be found by doing so. Handsome fungus beetles will feed on crust fungi on the outers ends of logs. Research has shown that up to one third of insects found in forests and woodlands benefit from deadwood, either by feeding on it or by feeding on the insects that do. In turn, these insects become food for birds that know where to look for them. Pileated woodpeckers are a good example of a bird that is well adapted to tapping into trees and logs that insects are living inside.  

Rotting logs and stumps are a good springboard for plants like ferns and certain tree saplings to grow on. A good example is the stilt-rooting yellow birch, whose seeds will germinate on stumps. The seedling sends roots over the sides of the stump where they penetrate the ground. Over time, the stump (or log) decays, and the tree looks like it is on stilts.  

Look for slugs and snails feeding on both moss and algae on logs. They will also feed on all types of mushrooms, both on the caps and the stalks, so check any fleshy mushrooms you find on or near logs. Springtails can be found on jelly fungi like witch’s butter even in the winter. This fungus is brilliant yellow and is easy to spot on dead wood. 

Turning over a dead branch or log that remains intact may reveal a salamander or two any time of year. I have found a red- backed and a spotted salamander under the same log this week. The microclimate under the log provides moisture and food like worms and other arthropods and also protection for these amphibians. Be careful when rolling the log back to avoid injuring these creatures. 

As a final note, there are always surprises when exploring the natural environment, for instance, when overturning a section of decaying log that was hollow, it split open to reveal a mourning cloak butterfly in diapause in this excellent overwintering spot. I put it back carefully, as this butterfly is one of several species that will overwinter, and it will sometimes be seen flying about the woods on warm winter days.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 8, 2026

Storing Late Harvest Vegetables, Winterizing Your Property, and Other November News

Banner image showing a wide shot of a college campus buildings and trees with orange leaves, with large overlay text reading "November" and smaller text "2026."

Autumn carries more gold in its pocket than all the other seasons.

~Jim Bishop

Storing Late Harvest Vegetables

Image of a butternut squash plant against a fence with a mature squash visible in the foreground and another in the background.
Image by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office.

Cool season crops give gardeners a chance to extend the growing season as the air begins to chill. Many of these crops store well into the winter after harvesting, allowing you to enjoy these late-season splendors for months to come. Outlined below are storing guidelines for common late season vegetables. Be sure to monitor throughout the winter for signs of disease or other pests, such as overly soft, moist, or moldy spots. Avoid storing these crops near ethylene-producing fruits like apples that may impact ripening and storage life.

Onions

Before curing and storing, it is best to remove onion tops once they have fully dried. Bulbs can be left in the field or another warm area with proper air circulation, like an open shed, to cure for about 3 weeks. To prevent dew from accumulating on the bulbs, place a tarp or other covering over plantings at night. Onions are fully cured once their necks are completely dry and their outer skin has developed a darker color with a papery, crinkling texture. 

Store onions in a ventilated bag or sack after curing. Dark and cool locations are optimal for storage, although it is important to gradually expose onions to temperatures significantly lower than those outdoors.

Carrots

Post-harvest, cut the green tops off carrots about an inch above the roots. If your harvest is smaller, use a perforated plastic bag to store carrots in the fridge. Bury larger harvests under sand or sawdust in a cool and moist location such as a garage.

Potatoes

For proper skin development and to heal minor wounds, cure potato tubers for about two weeks under mild (50-60°F) and moist conditions. After curing, store potatoes in a cooler (~40°F), yet still humid, and dark location. Light exposure turns potatoes green, and storage at higher temperatures may cause tubers to sprout within a few months. When temperatures in the storage location drop below 40°F, potatoes develop a sweeter flavor – if this is not desired, move potatoes to a room-temperature location a few days before using.

Winter Squash

Depending on the variety and desired time of use, curing may be necessary for winter squash. Varieties such as acorn and delicata squash do not need to be cured, while others like butternut squash and pumpkins benefit from curing to heal minor wounds, harden skin, and convert starches to sugar for optimal flavor. These varieties can be cured under warm (80-85°F) and humid temperatures for about 5-10 days before being moved to their storage location. If you don’t anticipate using your squash for a few months and no outer wounds are visible, curing may not be necessary – starches should have ample time to complete their conversions to sugar during the storage period.  

Choose a cool (50-55°F) and dry location with proper ventilation to store winter squash. Humidity should be between 50-70%, making locations like a cool basement sufficient for storage. Shelf life is dependent on variety.

Winter Squash Harvest, Curing, and Storage

Storing Winter Vegetables

 

Winterize Your Property

Winteriziation can go beyond your plant material in the garden. While seasoned homeowners have their routines set, here are a few reminders to help you make sure your property is ready for winter. 

Manage Water Systems

Water left in pipes, hoses, or containers over the winter can expand and burst, leading to costly damage and wasted water. 

  • Turn outdoor water spigots off at the source and open them to allow for expansion
  • Drain hoses and allow them to dry in the sun before coiling them and stowing them in the shed or garage
  • Turn off and drain irrigation systems. Consider having an irrigation professional flush the system for you to protect your investment
  • Empty rain barrels and turn them upside down for the winter. Remember to place a downspout so that snowmelt and water can be directed away from the house
  • Drain fountains and small water features. Pull water pumps out to protect from freezing. Note that ponds will need specialized winterization and a pond care professional should be consulted with any questions. 

Manage Chemicals 

Products that can be stored in the shed during the growing season may need to be moved into more temperature-stable environments over the winter. Liquid products, especially, can be prone to freezing.

  • Store products in their original containers. Relocate them to a cool, dry, secure location protected from temperature extremes.
  • Avoid storing leftover diluted or pre-mixed spray solutions from earlier in the season. Dispose of any unused mixture according to label directions.
  • If disposal is necessary, check the product label for proper disposal information. 
  • Consult with your local fire department for any questions about how to safely store fuel products like propane or gasoline.

Secure Garden Decorations & Accessories

  • Terracotta and other ceramic containers can crack or break if water enters pores, crevices, or existing cracks and then freezes.
    • Store pots and planters in a protected, dry location.
      • If containers must remain outdoors, store them upside down to prevent water from collecting inside.
    • Move bird baths, statues, and pottery to a protected, dry location, or cover them to help keep them dry over the winter.
  • Stow yard furniture, temporary structures, tomato cages, garden flags, and other decorations to protect them from winter weather and snow load.
  • Ensure clear paths are established between your home and any wood piles, garden sheds, compost piles, or other spaces you will need easy winter access to. 

Scouting Invasives: Burning Bush

Burning bush (Euonymus alatus), also called winged euonymus, is an extremely invasive plant in Connecticut. It is widely planted in managed landscapes as a specimen, border, or hedge. This shrub produces many fruits which are eaten by birds and dispersed into natural areas. It is very shade tolerant and will invade forest understories and wooded edges. The common name, burning bush, is evident at this time of year when the foliage turns a bright red color.

Native replacements for this shrub in landscapes include highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia), or Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum).

Learn More About Burning Bush

 

Burning bush branches with red leaves and red circular berries in a wooded area.

Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office.


 Interesting Insects: Woolybear Caterpillars

Several dark brown and black fuzzy caterpillars lying on a surface of green grass and moss.
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office.

Pyrrharctia isabella is the best-known woolly bear caterpillar, commonly called the banded woolly bear.

It is black at both ends and reddish-brown in the middle. In the fall, they look for overwintering spots and are often seen crossing roads looking for a suitable sheltered location under dead plant debris- pasture grasses, leaves, etc.

Next spring they will emerge and eat a little before pupating. The adult is the Isabella moth.

Learn More About the Woollybear Caterpillar

Woolly Bear Caterpillar - Winter Predictor or Not?

Native Plant Highlight: Highbush Blueberry

Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)

Highbush blueberry is northeastern native that provides multi-season interest, including pink to red spring colored leaves, edible summer fruit, and vibrant red fall foliage. These shrubs can be used as a hedge, a mass planting, an accent in a pollinator or wildlife garden, or as a way to grow fruit for yourself and your family during the growing season. 

As mentioned above, is a great alternative to invasives like the Burning Bush and provide much more value to the landscape! 

They thrive in a lower pH soil environment, so soil testing is important before planting as well as in future seasons to ensure they're staying healthy. Group with other native acid-loving natives like Rhododendrons, Azaleas, or Hollies. 

Learn More About Highbush Blueberry

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.  

The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery! 

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List


Seeking Samples with Blueberry Rust

The UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab is seeking samples with symptoms of blueberry rust for a research project run by our collaborators at the University of Florida Plant Diagnostic Center. Symptoms include red/orange lesions on the tops of leaves with rusty orange/yellow sporulation on leaf undersides. Please contact our office if you have any questions.

Blueberry leaves becoming yellow with brown, red, and orange patches. A close up of a single leaf with a dark red patch is on the right.
Photo by D. Phillips and P. Harmon, UF/IFAS

Sample Submission Instructions


Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Getting Chilly? Remember to Keep Your Soil Warm!

The winter is a good time to rest as gardeners, and it is a great growing rest for your soil too. This does not mean that the cooler season is not a good opportunity to prepare your ground for a better next season.

Beneficial autumn leaves can be good for your compost pile. We compost so we can add those good nutrients right back into the soil, now that they are more accessible after breaking down.

Adding layers to ensure your soil is not bare is a great way to protect and even improve it further. Insulation such as compost, mulch, or a cover crop can add additional benefits. These include organic matter, preventing winter weeds, and disrupting disease cycles.

All of this is possible because the soil is still alive in these colder months. As the climate is changing and CT receives less snowpack, the soil needs more support to keep it thriving during the winter to be ready for spring!

By Ella May – UConn Plant Science & Landscape Architecture

Smart Gardening: Winter Soil Building

Winter Soil Processes in Transition

Responses of Soil Organic Matter and Minerals to Winter and Growing Season Climate Change


Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

Monthly Temperature Outlook Map of United States
Monthly Precipitation Outlook Map of United States

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                  Stay Tuned for Upcoming Talks!

                   

                   

                   

                  Events & Learning Opportunities from UConn Extension

                  UConn Extension Invasive Plant Certificate Course

                  Registration for the 2027 Invasive Plant Certificate course will open in early November 2026. The course is fully online and asynchronous. It will run from January to May 2027. This Invasive Plant educational course is designed to benefit beginner to professional invasive plant management practitioners, who have 0-3 years of management experience. Course content will include recorded presentations, interviews with land managers, reading material, videos, and quizzes. Industry professionals and experienced practitioners facilitate learning. 
                  Register at:

                  November Gardening Tips

                            • Use small stakes or markers where you've planted bulbs or late starting spring plants in the perennial garden to avoid disturbing them when you begin spring soil preparation. 
                            • Once the ground has frozen (but before it snows), mulch fall planted perennials by placing 3 to 5 inches of pine needles, straw, chopped leaves around them.
                            • Cut back perennials that were covered in powdery mildew during the summer. Cut stalks to the ground and dispose of them. 
                            • Avoid chilling houseplants by moving them away from windows as nights get colder. 
                            • Give houseplants as much light as possible as shorter fall days begin. 
                            • Finish the cleanup of the vegetable garden or beds, removing all plant debris. 
                            • Rake and dispose of apple and cherry leaves. Good sanitation practices reduce re-infestation of insects and diseases the following season. 
                            • After the ground freezes, mulch small fruit plants such as strawberries. One inch of straw or leaves is ideal for strawberries. Small branches may be used to keep mulch in place. 
                            • Protect your roses during the cold winter months. Place bark mulch around the base so that the first part of the stem (nearest to the ground) is completely covered or mound with soil and protect with a purchased rose cone once the soil freezes.   
                            • Clay and ceramic pots can crack over the winter if they fill with rain or melted snow that subsequently freezes and expands. Empty pots and place upside down under a tarp or store them in a shed or the garage.


                              This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                              Pamm Cooper, Ella May, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Heather Zidack

                              That Dry Spot in Your Yard May Still Be a Wetland

                              By Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

                              When most of us hear the word “wetland,” we picture standing water, cattails, a marsh, or a wooded swamp. But in Connecticut, a wetland does not necessarily have to look wet. Even land that appears dry for much of the year may still meet the state's definition of an inland wetland because Connecticut defines inland wetlands by soil type. That can matter if you plan to fill a low spot, extend a driveway, build, or change drainage on your property. 

                              Connecticut's wetland law includes soils classified as poorly drained, very poorly drained, alluvial, or floodplain. Some of these soils stay wet for long periods, while others may appear surprisingly dry. 

                              Poorly drained soils commonly have a water table near the surface during wetter parts of the year. Very poorly drained soils remain wet for longer periods and are often found in low areas and depressions. Alluvial and floodplain soils occur along watercourses where flowing water has deposited soil material. Some alluvial and floodplain soils can drain well and appear quite dry, yet still meet Connecticut’s definition of an inland wetland. 

                              A yard that seems dry in late summer may therefore look very different during the wetter months of spring. Surface appearance alone cannot tell you whether an area is legally considered a wetland. 

                              When soil remains saturated for extended periods, oxygen becomes limited and chemical changes can create distinctive colors and patterns. A soil scientist examines these features along with the soil profile and landscape position to identify wetland soils and their boundaries. Topography can also aid in delineating wetlands. Depressions, areas below slopes, and land beside streams and floodplains are more likely to contain wetland soils.  

                              CT ECO (Connecticut Environmental Conditions Online) provides online maps showing the general location of inland wetland soils. These maps are useful for an initial look at a property, but they cannot establish the exact wetland boundary. A field delineation by a soil scientist may be needed for it. 

                              Why property owners should care 

                              Having a wetland on your property does not mean you cannot use the land. But if you are planning work within a wetland, watercourse, or your town’s designated review area around them, you may need to check with the town first. 

                              Activities such as bringing in fill, clearing vegetation, extending a driveway, building a structure, or changing drainage in such areas may require local review. Many towns have established review areas around wetlands and watercourses because nearby work can still affect them. The size of these areas varies by municipality, so there is no single statewide distance that applies everywhere. 

                              A land-use or inland wetlands staff member in your town can help determine whether your project may be regulated by the wetland rules. They can explain what information is needed, and tell you whether a permit or other approval is required to implement it. If an exact wetland boundary is needed, the applicant may also be required to provide a field wetland delineation prepared by a soil scientist. 

                              Some activities, such as gardening, may be allowed without a permit. But that does not mean activities like filling, construction, or drainage changes are automatically allowed. If you are unsure what activities are allowed, checking with your town before starting can prevent problems later. Work done without required approval may have to stop, be corrected, or go through an enforcement process that can include fines or other penalties. 

                              Wetlands are doing their ecological function even when they look dry 

                              Wetlands can provide important ecological services, including storing floodwater, trapping sediment and nutrients, providing wildlife habitat, reducing erosion, and helping recharge groundwater. So, if part of your property is wet in spring but dry enough to walk across later in the year, do not assume that means it is not a wetland. Before filling, digging, or changing drainage in a questionable area, check available soil information and contact your local wetlands office. 

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 1, 2026

                              Ask Us Anything Fall Clean Up 10.20.26 Meeting Recording

                              Join UConn’s Plant and Soil Health Center for a relaxed, interactive virtual “Ask Us Anything” session focused on helping the home garden transition successfully into fall and winter. This event is for home gardeners or green industry professionals.
                              Whether you are wrapping up your first growing season or maintaining an established landscape, our experts will share practical, research-based guidance to help you decide which fall tasks matter most for your yard. We will bring an ecologically minded and Integrated Pest Management approach to fall yard and garden maintenance.

                              Home Garden Education Office - Ask Us Anything about Fall Cleanup Discussion Panel 

                              • Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Lab
                              • Dr. Nick Goltz, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab
                              • Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Research Associate
                              • Scott Reil, Winterberry Residential Landscape
                              • Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              CT Invasive Plant Working Group’s Symposium Preview

                              CT Invasive Plant Working Group’s Symposium Preview

                              For the People – Lauren Kurtz discusses the The full-day Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group’s 2026 symposium. They preview the sold-out event and tell you how to take advantage of a post-event video option, so anyone can benefit from all the guidance from expert speakers and workshops.

                              Not Too Late for Late Blight This Fall in Connecticut

                              By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                              This time of year, a vegetable grower’s attention turns to cool-season crops. Their hardiness and tolerance in the face of early frosts and dropping temperatures make them reliable extensions of the growing season before its inevitable conclusion in the winter. One of these crops is the almighty potato, a seasonal staple whose versatility lends itself to countless favorite holiday dishes (my sights are already set on the fluffy mashed potatoes that await me on Thanksgiving). However, growing potatoes is not an easy feat. A great number of plant diseases elect potatoes as their hosts, upon which they lay waste to once promising and bountiful harvests. Perhaps the most well-known of these diseases is late blight, Phytophthora infestans.  

                              Phytophthora infestans is an oomycete – a group of organisms that share many characteristics with true fungi but are evolutionarily distinct from them. Oomycetes produce three kinds of spores – oospores, sporangia, and zoospores – that are each suited for different stages of the organism’s life cycle. Environmental conditions play a key role in determining the reproductive process and structures that make up Phytophthora infestans. In the Northeast, the disease overwinters on potato tubers, debris, and soil infected in previous years. Humid and wet weather causes sporangia located on this material to germinate and travel to nearby potato plants via wind currents. There, sporangia will directly infect them by way of a germ tube, a structure which allows the pathogen to break open and enter plant tissue. Under cool and wet conditions, sporangia will germinate and produce zoospores that swim along water-covered surfaces to infect their host.  

                              In the early stages of late blight infection, potato leaf tips develop small lesions ranging in color from purple to dark brown or black. Lesions often have a chlorotic (yellow) border and can quickly expand to cover entire leaf surfaces. Following periods of humidity or rainfall, white sporulation may be visible on the underside of these lesions. As the disease progresses, entire plants can become defoliated as leaves shrivel and die. Late blight symptoms are also present on stems. Similar in color to leaf lesions, they may appear in any region of the stem and expand as disease worsens. Potato tubers may exhibit symptoms as well, turning abnormal shades of reddish-brown or purple and even producing white sporulation on outside surfaces. Through its infection, Phytophthora infestans detracts from their host plant’s vigor and makes them more susceptible to secondary infections of other fungal and bacterial pathogens.  

                              The rapid progression of late blight, as well as the prolific dispersal and persistence of its reproductive structures, make it a particularly challenging disease to control. Sanitation practices, such as proper cleanup of spent material and sterilization of tools, are effective in minimizing disease spread. Crop rotation is also beneficial to reduce the risk of disease reoccurrence in a planting area. Potatoes suspected of having late blight may be submitted to the UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab for confirmation and management recommendations.  

                              Close-up of green potato plant foliage showing several leaves with irregular brown lesions and dead tissue, indicative of plant disease damage. The image includes the number "5362900" in the lower-right corner.
                              Potato leaf infected with late blight. Photo by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org.

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 25, 2026

                              We Asked Garden Pros if Cold or Room-Temperature Water Is Better for Plants—And They All Agreed

                              We Asked Garden Pros if Cold or Room-Temperature Water Is Better for Plants—And They All Agreed

                              The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other professionals discuss how water temperature may (or may not) affect plants, and more efficient watering and plant care strategies.

                              Beyond Native Plants: Improving Wildlife Habitat in Managed Landscapes

                              By Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Lush backyard garden bordering a weathered wooden pool deck, with yellow and orange flowering plants, shrubs, large rocks, and a black chain-link fence in front of a wooded area. A swimming pool is visible on the right, with landscaped beds extending along the deck.
                              Photo by Lauren Kurtz

                              There is growing interest in using home landscapes as habitat for local wildlife. Ecological landscaping goes beyond pollinator gardens and wildflower meadows. It incorporates native plant selection, species specific habitat features, and sustainable maintenance practices. By designing landscapes with an ecological mindset, we can support wildlife while creating attractive, functional yards. 

                              Ecological landscaping models natural plant communities, reduces chemical inputs, and supports soil health to increase local biodiversity. Natural ecosystems are complex and dynamic, whereas traditional home landscapes are often neat and predictable. Ecological landscaping requires us to change both how we manage and how we think about our landscapes. With thoughtful design and maintenance, we can create yards that are both aesthetically pleasing and ecologically beneficial. Several key practices can help gardeners support the ecosystem in their own yards. 

                              Start with Native Plants 

                              Native plants are the foundation of the local food web. Incorporating more native plants into managed landscapes increases the food supply available to local wildlife. Native plants serve a dual purpose: they are ecologically valuable and ornamental. 

                              Choose plants suited to site conditions and compatible with the surrounding plant community. Select a variety of species that bloom in spring, summer, and fall to provide color and pollinator forage throughout the growing season. Include native plants that serve as larval host plants for insects and create layered vegetation with different heights and forms to provide habitat from the soil surface to the canopy. 

                              Add Habitat Features 

                              Beyond native plants, healthy ecosystems require other habitat features. Leaving plant debris and leaves in garden beds provides soil cover and protection for overwintering animals. Species differ in their overwintering shelter needs, consider which wildlife you hope to attract and tailor habitat features accordingly. 

                              Leaving brush piles, dead wood, or snags is another important way to provide shelter. In general, reducing or skipping fall cleanup and delaying spring cleanup benefits wildlife. However, balance these practices with the needs of the landscape. For example, a thick layer of leaves left on a turf lawn through winter can smother grass and create dead patches; move those leaves into garden beds instead. 

                              Reduce Chemical Inputs 

                              Reducing chemical inputs is another critical component of ecological landscaping. Chemical inputs include fertilizers, herbicides, fungicides, and insecticides. Even natural or organic pesticides should be reduced or eliminated in an ecologically minded garden. Reducing these inputs allows the natural balance of the ecosystem to return. 

                              Gardening for food production may require different maintenance practices and a greater allowance for chemical inputs than gardening primarily for wildlife habitat. The same is true for managing invasive plants, which may require targeted herbicide use.  

                              Balance Ecology and Aesthetics 

                              There is a balancing act between ecological maintenance practices and maintaining an attractive landscape. Leaving leaves and plant debris in place can be an adjustment for gardeners new to ecological landscaping. Still, ecological landscaping does not require abandoning attractive or usable spaces. Thoughtful design, intentional maintenance, and a willingness to relinquish some control can benefit both nature and people in the long run. 

                              Interested in getting a jump start on applying ecological landscaping practices to your garden this year? Join us for a webinar on this and more fall cleanup topics on October 20th. Visit s.uconn.edu/hgeo-webinars for registration and details. 

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 19, 2026

                              Managing Potassium for Cabbage Success

                              By Yiling Zheng, Graduate Student, Plant Science and Landscape Architecture, University of Connecticut 

                              Five harvested cabbage heads of increasing size are arranged on a white board in a grassy field, labeled with treatment rates of 0, 50, 100, 150, and 200 lb acre⁻¹. Surrounding cabbage leaves are visible on the ground, illustrating differences in cabbage growth across treatments.
                              Response of cabbage head size to potassium fertilizer application rates ranging from 0 to 200 lb/acre. Photo by Y. Zheng

                              Potassium (K) is an essential nutrient for growing healthy, productive cabbage. It plays an important role in root development, water management, enzymes activation, and overall plant health. Adequate potassium helps cabbage plants tolerate stresses such as drought, frost, insects, and diseases. One of potassium's most important functions is helping plants regulate water. During dry conditions, potassium improves the plant's ability to retain water and reduces the risk of wilting. Cabbage grown in K-deficient soils can experience changes in plant metabolism that can reduce growth and vigor. These changes include lower levels of amino acids needed for growth and nutrient uptake, reduced compounds that help plants cope with water stress, and disruptions in sugar movement within the plant. As a result, K-deficient cabbage may grow more slowly, produce lower yields, and become more susceptible to environmental stress. K also plays a critical role in cabbage nutrition and quality. For example, increasing K availability for cabbage can lead to increased starch sugar content in cabbage leaves.   

                              Sufficient K availability supports these important plant functions and promotes the development of a large, healthy leaf canopy before head formation, as well as the rapid growth of marketable cabbage heads. However, applying K beyond the crop's requirement does not typically increase yield or quality because cabbage plants can absorb more K than they need, a phenomenon known as luxury consumption. This unnecessary uptake increases fertilizer costs without providing additional benefits. In some cases, high K availability, such as from high-rate banded applications of potassium fertilizers, may increase the risk of cabbage head bursting and outbalance of essential nutrients. Therefore, proper K management is essential to maximize yield and quality while avoiding unnecessary fertilizer expenses and potential negative impacts on crops. 

                              A recent two-year field study conducted in Storrs, Connecticut, during 2024-2025 by graduate student Yiling Zheng in the Department of Plant Science and Landscape Architecture at the University of Connecticut demonstrated the benefits of potassium fertilization for cabbage production in soils low in K.  

                              In this study, soil test K was 138 lb acre⁻¹, below UConn's recommended optimum range of 250-349 lb acre⁻¹. K was applied as sulfate of potash (potassium sulfate) at rates ranging from low to high K supply levels. In both years, cabbage yield increased significantly with K fertilization up to 50 lb K₂O acre⁻¹, with no additional yield benefit observed at higher application rates. K fertilization increased marketable yield by 19% in 2024 and 58% in 2025 compared with the unfertilized control.  

                              Side-by-side cabbage plants grown under two fertilizer treatments, labeled 0 and 200 lb acre⁻¹, displayed on plastic mulch in a field. Plants at 200 lb acre⁻¹ are substantially larger, with fuller leaves and visible cabbage heads, while plants at 0 are much smaller and less developed.
                              Cabbage growth under contrasting potassium fertilizer rates: 0 lb/acre (left) and 200 lb/acre (right). Photo by Y. Zheng

                              Although K concentrations in marketable cabbage heads were not affected by fertilizer treatment, fertilization increased K concentrations in the unmarketable outer leaves. When K accumulation in both marketable heads and outer leaves was considered, total plant K uptake increased significantly with K fertilizer rate in both years. On average, K-fertilized cabbage took up approximately 150 and 200 lb K₂O acre⁻¹ in 2024 and 2025, respectively, compared with 110 and 90 lb K₂O acre⁻¹ in the unfertilized control. Across treatments, approximately 70% of total plant K was partitioned to the marketable head, with the remaining 30% retained in the outer leaves.   

                              This research also found that cabbage heads with higher K concentrations tended to have higher concentrations of N, P, Ca, Mg, S, Mn, Fe, and Cu, all of which contribute to the nutritional composition of harvested cabbage. These findings suggest that adequate K nutrition not only supports crop growth and yield but also enhances the uptake and accumulation of other essential nutrients. Maintaining sufficient K availability may therefore improve the overall nutritional quality of cabbage by promoting a more balanced mineral composition in the harvested heads. 

                              The UConn study demonstrated the importance of K fertilization for maximizing cabbage yield and quality. However, soil test potassium is the primary factor used to determine whether K fertilization is needed and how much should be applied. If soil test K levels are at or above the recommended critical level, additional K fertilizer is not necessary. Under these conditions, increasing K application is unlikely to improve cabbage yield or quality and may result in unnecessary fertilizer costs.  

                              Connecticut growers are encouraged to submit soil samples to the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center before planting or transplanting cabbage. Soil testing provides the information needed to make sound fertilizer decisions and ensure that K and other nutrients are applied only when needed. By combining accurate soil testing with balanced fertility and careful nutrient management, growers can optimize cabbage yield and quality while protecting both farm profitability and the environment.

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 11, 2026

                              End of Season Harvesting, Bringing Houseplants Inside and Other October News

                              Banner image showing bright orange and red leaves on a maple tree, with large overlay text reading “October” and smaller text “2026.”

                              Listen! The wind is rising, and the air is wild with leaves,
                              We have had our summer evenings, now for October eves!

                              ~Humbert Wolfe, "Autumn (Resignation)"

                              End of Season Harvesting

                              • While some gardeners are able to keep their vegetable gardens going into November and December, many of us start to wrap up in October. Here are some final tips for getting the most out of your autumn harvests!
                              • Harvest before a hard frost or before the temperatures drop below 28°F
                              • Clean your garden as you go. If you've harvested your last tomato, pull the plant. Not only does this help prevent a big "final project" once the garden is empty, but good cleanup is also one of the easiest ways to reduce pests and diseases in next year's garden.
                              • Keep safety in mind! Fall crops yield large fruit like pumpkins and winter squash. Practice proper lifting techniques and don't push yourself to carry more than you can handle.
                              • Find a way to cover your soil. While it may be too late to plant cover crops, gardeners can use natural mulches like shredded leaves, or straw to cover the soil and prevent erosion during winter months.

                              Fall Harvest Tips

                              Warm Season Vegetables

                              As temperatures cool, warm-season vegetables will slow their growth and production and are often the first crops affected by frost. Harvest what you can before cold weather arrives. Tomatoes and peppers can be harvested green and ripened or used in a variety of recipes.

                              Herbs & Leafy Greens

                              As temperatures cool, some leafy greens really come into their own. While lettuce and other tender greens may begin to decline, crops like kale, Swiss chard, and escarole often continue to produce well into fall. Harvest outer leaves as needed and allow plants to keep growing.

                              Harvest tender herbs and frost-sensitive greens before a hard frost. Many herbs can be dried, frozen, or dehydrated for long-term storage.

                              Pumpkins growing in a garden patch.
                              Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Pumpkins & Winter Squash

                              Knowing when to harvest pumpkins and other winter squash is important because picking them too early can reduce their storage life.

                              Harvest pumpkins when they have reached their full mature color and the rind is hard enough to resist puncturing with a fingernail. The stem should be dry and brown, and the vines and leaves will usually have begun to die back.

                              Root Vegetables

                              Cool weather often improves the flavor of many root crops. Carrots, beets, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, and radishes can continue to be harvested throughout the fall, and some will tolerate light frosts. In fact, cool temperatures can enhance sweetness in crops such as carrots and parsnips.

                              Harvest root vegetables before the ground freezes solid. Mulching around plants can help extend the harvest season and make digging easier later into the fall.

                              Extend the Season

                              If you're one of those gardeners interested in extending your garden season as long as possible, these links might be for you!

                              Season Extenders and Growing Fall Vegetables

                               

                              Bringing Houseplants Inside for the Season

                              As leaves and temperatures both begin to drop, that’s our cue to bring houseplants inside for the season. Specifically, plants should be brought in when nighttime temperatures fall below 50°F. Make sure to inspect all parts of the plant for insects and any disease symptoms. Choose a spot indoors for your plant away from any excessive heat sources such as vents.  

                              Light, water, and fertilization requirements differ for each variety of houseplant. Get to know your plant by doing some research to find out what conditions it prefers. This can also be found on the plant’s tag or label if it is still attached. If you find yourself unsure of how to proceed with caring for your houseplants this season, please contact us. 

                              Caring for Houseplants

                              Potted plants on a sunny windowsill.

                              Laurel Wilt in CT?
                              What is it and what should you do?

                              This past August, the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (CAES) confirmed the state’s first case of laurel wilt (Harringtonia lauricola). Laurel wilt is a severe fungal disease that attacks the vascular system of its host. Plants within the Lauraceae family are susceptible to infection, including sassafras, spicebush, redbay, and avocado. Despite what the disease’s name implies, mountain laurel is not a host of laurel wilt.  

                              Laurel wilt is vectored by the redbay ambrosia beetle (Xyleborus glabratus). These insects are extremely small (~2 mm long) and inoculate host plants by tunnelling through their stems and woody tissue. Initial symptoms of laurel wilt include leaf discoloration, wilting, and branch dieback. As the disease progresses, dark vascular streaks become visible on the sapwood underneath external bark layers.  

                              As we head deeper into fall and winter, scouting for symptoms will become more difficult. Continue to monitor any potential host plants during the spring for signs of disease. Currently, molecular testing to confirm the presence of laurel wilt is only available at the CAES.

                              CAES Official Press Release on Laurel Wilt (9/10/26)

                              Laurel Wilt Fact Sheet

                              Find it? Report it!

                               

                              Close-up of a weathered wooden stem with natural grain and dark streaks against a blurred green background.

                              Image provided by the CT Agricultural Experiment Station

                              Dead brown leaves hanging from tree branches among green foliage.

                              Image provided by the CT Agricultural Experiment Station

                              Remember, the pathogen is not widespread in Connecticut yet – this is not cause for panic, but rather something to be aware of moving forward.  If you have questions, don't hesitate to reach out to our office! 

                               


                               Interesting Insects: Autumn Meadowhawk Dragonfly

                              Autumn meadowhawk dragonfly resting on a finger, with sunlight shining through its transparent wings.
                              Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              The last dragonfly on the scene in fall is the native Autumn Meadowhawk Sympetrum vicinum. They are one of the last dragonflies to emerge as adults from late July- September.

                              They are not fussy about habitat as long as there is some water nearby, especially with woodlands in the area. In the cool fall weather you can find them in sunny spots basking on rocks and small branches.

                              As long as temperatures are above 50 degrees F. they can fly, often well into November.

                              Learn More About the Autumn Meadowhawk Dragonfly


                              Native Plant Highlight: American Witch Hazel

                              Yellow witch hazel flowers blooming on bare branches in a woodland setting.
                              Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              American Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

                              American witch hazel is a shrub native to Connecticut and most of the Eastern United States. This shrub blooms in October and November, making it one of the last plants to bloom for the season. Witch hazel can be grown as an understory shrub or as part of a woodland border in full sun to part shade. 

                              Learn More About American Witch Hazel

                              The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

                              This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.  

                              The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!

                              CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List


                              Seeking Samples with Blueberry Rust

                              The UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab is seeking samples with symptoms of blueberry rust for a research project run by our collaborators at the University of Florida Plant Diagnostic Center. Symptoms include red/orange lesions on the tops of leaves with rusty orange/yellow sporulation on leaf undersides. Please contact our office if you have any questions.

                              Blueberry leaves becoming yellow with brown, red, and orange patches. A close up of a single leaf with a dark red patch is on the right.
                              Photo by D. Phillips and P. Harmon, UF/IFAS

                              Sample Submission Instructions


                              Word from the WiSE

                              Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

                              A Frightful Feast for Soil Microbes

                              This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on what fall plant waste can do for your compost pile. While October might be spooky, there is nothing scary about composting when it’s done correctly. Fall provides an abundance of plant material, such as fallen leaves and leftover debris from flower beds and vegetable gardens. These organic materials can contribute to a nutrient-rich feast for the microbes hard at work in your compost pile.

                              Fallen leaves are an excellent carbon source for compost, with a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of about 50:1, while fresh plant material has a ratio of about 20:1 and provides more nitrogen. Because of this, it is important to add roughly twice as much fresh plant material as leaves to your compost pile.

                              Getting the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio balance right is important for healthy decomposition. Too much carbon can limit the nitrogen available to soil microorganisms, causing the pile to stay cool and slowing decomposition. On the other hand, excess nitrogen can result in the loss of ammonia gas and an unpleasant smelling pile.

                              As you’re cleaning up your garden this fall, think about adding these plant materials to your compost pile. With the right balance, they can become a valuable resource for building healthy soil.

                              By Nora Doonan – Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA

                              Composting Leaves

                              Compost Chemistry


                              Weather Outlook

                              A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

                              Monthly Temperature Outlook Map of United States
                              Monthly Precipitation Outlook Map of United States

                              Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                                              Join us at Upcoming Talks!

                                              Mushrooms Just for Fun with Pamm Cooper
                                              Thursday, October 22 - 7:00 PM
                                              Mansfield Public Library
                                              54 Warrenville Road, Mansfield, CT

                                               

                                               

                                              Events & Learning Opportunities from UConn Extension

                                              Ask Us Anything: Fall Cleanup Webinar

                                              Tuesday, October 20th
                                              6:00-7:00 PM

                                              Virtual through Microsoft Teams
                                              Join UConn’s Plant and Soil Health Center for a relaxed, interactive virtual “Ask Us Anything” session focused on helping the home garden transition successfully into fall and winter. This event is for home gardeners or green industry professionals. Whether you are wrapping up your first growing season or maintaining an established landscape, our experts will share practical, research-based guidance to help you decide which fall tasks matter most for your yard. We will bring an ecologically minded and Integrated Pest Management approach to fall yard and garden maintenance. Bring your questions about: 
                                              • Leaf management  
                                              • Perennial plant maintenance 
                                              • Disease mitigation  
                                              • Soil and compost management  
                                              • Lawn care 

                                              The panelists–a landscape designer, soil scientist, plant pathologist, and horticulture educator are ready to discuss the challenges and opportunities you're thinking about as the growing season winds down.

                                              There will be no presentations, this is a participant driven conversation! Our moderator will help get the discussion started, and participant questions are the priority.

                                              Panelists  

                                              • Avishesh Neupane, UConn, Assistant Extension Professor  
                                              • Nick Goltz, UConn, Assistant Extension Professor  
                                              • Lauren Kurtz, UConn, Research Associate 
                                              • Scot Reil, Winterberry Gardens, Designer 

                                              Moderator: Heather Zidack, UConn 

                                              George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

                                              October 17th, 2026
                                              11:00AM - 3:00PM

                                              27A Manter Rd, Storrs CT

                                              Join us for a free, family-friendly open house at UConn’s newest center! Learn more about our services and expertise in home gardening, plant diagnostics, soil and nutrient health, and turfgrass.

                                              - Tours of the new George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center

                                              - Hands-on plant and soil health demonstrations

                                              - Lawn and garden questions answered

                                              - Free soil pH testing

                                              - Free plant diagnostic/nutrient analysis coupons (limited qty)

                                              - UConn Hort-club Plant sale

                                              - UConn Dairy Bar will be open

                                              - Wagon rides, games, prizes, and more!

                                              Learn More

                                              UConn Master Composter Program

                                              What is the Master Composter Program?
                                              Between 10 and 25% of a typical household’s waste can be recycled right in our own backyards. This significantly reduces the amount of waste that is incinerated or trucked to state and municipal landfills. The UConn Master Composter Program educates and trains state residents about the composting process and prepares participants to pass that knowledge on to others through outreach.

                                              Program Details
                                              Format: Hybrid, with two in-person Saturday sessions and two online evening sessions

                                              Program fee: $100 per student

                                              Class size: Limited to 25 participants

                                              Certification: Participants must attend all class sessions and complete outreach projects totaling about 20 volunteer hours to receive a UConn Master Composter Certificate & Badge.

                                              Suggested topics: Composting basics; compost chemistry, contaminants, and testing; compost recipes and calculators; community composting; earthworms; vermicomposting; and public education approaches.

                                              For more information including registration and program updates, email soiltest@uconn.edu.

                                               

                                              2026 CIPWG Symposium

                                              The Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group's 2026 symposium From Awareness to Action - Strengthening Our Response to Invasive Plants will be in person at UConn Student Union, Storrs, CT, open to all; Wednesday, October 28, 2026.

                                              Sessions include a variety of techniques for management of terrestrial and aquatic invasives, as well as restoration with native alternatives.

                                              The symposium will be recorded and made available after the event. Attendees can choose to attend in person or purchase the recording. CEUs for organizations and Pesticide Recertification Credits are available.

                                              $90 General Registration (in person attendance). $80 Recording Only; Student Registration Available.

                                              Learn more and register at: cipwg.uconn.edu/2026-symposium/

                                              Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026 

                                              Registration is now open for the Fall 2026 Online Ornamental & Turf Short Course! The course runs October 7–December 16, 2026, with weekly live online sessions held on Wednesdays from 5:30–7:30 p.m.

                                              Registration Cost: $400 (includes the Pesticide Applicator Core Manual, Ornamental & Turf Category Manual, and printed course materials).
                                              For information on student registration or if you are retaking the course, please contact the instructor, Srikanth Kodati (contact information can be found at the end of this email).

                                              This short course provides an in-depth review of the material needed to prepare for the Connecticut Supervisory Pesticide Applicator Certification Exam (Category 3A: Ornamental & Turf/Golf Course Superintendents). Students who complete all modules, quizzes, and resource materials will be well prepared for both the written and oral state exams.

                                              To register for the course:
                                              s.uconn.edu/turfcourse

                                              For more information: https://ipm.cahnr.uconn.edu/pesticide-course/

                                              Please reach out to Srikanth (course instructor) at srikanth.kodati@uconn.edu or call 860-870-6935 if you have any questions. 


                                              October Gardening Tips

                                                        • Remove plant debris from the flower beds. Bag any diseased plant parts and put them in the trash or take them to a landfill but do not compost.
                                                        • Keep collecting matured seeds. Dry them out and place them in labeled brown coin envelopes within an airtight container, and store in a cool place.
                                                        • Remove plant debris from the flower beds. Bag any diseased plant parts and put them in the trash or take them to a landfill but do not compost.
                                                        • Pot up hyacinths, tulips, and other pre-cooled bulbs and store in a cool, dark place until ready to force.
                                                        • Sketch out where you planted various vegetables in your garden back in the spring. This will come in handy next spring so when you plant, you can rotate your crops and help prevent disease.
                                                        • Plant garlic from October 1st to November 15th. Place each clove pointed-side up at a depth of 2-4” about 6” apart.
                                                        • Prune fall-bearing raspberries after harvest. 
                                                        • Cold-hardy fruit trees such as Honeycrisp and Cortland apples, Reliance peach, Superior plum, most pawpaws and American persimmon can still be planted into October. Continue to water until the ground freezes hard.
                                                        • If root maggots have been an issue with brassicas and root vegetables till the soil over to expose the pupae to winter cold.
                                                        • Cut down stems and foliage of herbaceous perennials after two or three hard frosts or when leaves begin to brown.
                                                        • Limit herbaceous plant material located a few feet away from the house to eliminate hiding places for insects and mice, which could wind up indoors as temperatures plummet.


                                                        This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                                        Pamm Cooper, Nora Doonan, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Heather Zidack