Adult spotted lanternflies are reaching peak activity in Connecticut, raising concerns about the invasive pest and its potential impact on agriculture. Sen. Richard Blumenthal is calling on Congress to pass the Spotted Lanternfly Research and Development Act, which would support more research into ways to control the pest. Dr. Lauren Kurtz, from the UConn Home Garden Education Office, discusses the potential impacts of this pest. (Summer 2026)
Author: Zidack, Heather
Do Home Gardens Need Mycorrhizal Inoculants?
Healthy Lawns, Sustainable Landscapes, Hanging Baskets, and Other August News
Take Care of Your Hanging Baskets
Hanging baskets are a staple of summer, bringing a pop of color and brightness to empty spaces on porches and decks. However, they require extra care and maintenance as their free-floating nature renders them more susceptible to the elements—namely an increased exposure to wind and sun. This leads to drier soils, making it necessary to frequently monitor hanging baskets to meet their watering needs.In especially full baskets with a variety of flowers, roots can become packed together and dry out even faster.
Check the soil texture at least once a day and water accordingly, increasing to two or more times on particularly hot and sunny days. Provide baskets with a healthy drink until water runs through the bottom, ensuring moisture will reach all of the roots evenly and thoroughly.
Baskets may also benefit from a trim, especially if you see the center of the basket starting to thin out or turn brown. Cut back your cascading stems by one third to help the plant push new growth out of the center.
Scout for Glossy Buckthorn
Glossy buckthorn (Frangula alnus ) is an invasive shrub or small tree spreading through disturbed areas, forests, wetlands, and edges across the Northeast. This plant leafs out early and retains its foliage later into fall. By doing so, it shades out native plants and disrupts natural forest regeneration. Look for smooth gray bark with prominent lenticels, alternate glossy leaves, and small fruits that change from red to dark purple or black. Birds eat the fruit and spread the seeds. Management is most effective when plants are removed before fruiting, using a combination of cutting and targeted herbicide application to prevent resprouting. Follow the label and all state regulations when choosing to use herbicides. Young or small plants can be manually removed.
Interesting Insects: Smaller parasa
Smaller Parasa slug moths are very small with a shaggy mane of green hairs and a thick green band on its brown forewing. Normally slug moth caterpillars are seen in August- September.
The caterpillars of all slug moths have no legs- instead of crawling they glide along by means of medial suckers. Most slug moth caterpillars have urticating spines which can cause a painful sting if touched, and on some species, like the smaller parasa, the spines are hidden until the caterpillar becomes alarmed. The caterpillar shown was found on a pin oak on Horsebarn Hill, UConn.
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It’s Not the Heat, It’s the Humidity
How many times have we all heard that phrase? Humans generally do not like super humid weather, but many plants love it. Humidity may even change how a plant grows. Humidity loving plants actually NEED high humidity to grow, and they generally are not able to adapt to lower humidity. Symptoms of low humidity in plants can be leaf drop, drying leaf edges, and in some cases, death. However, with a little special attention and care, a plant enthusiast can add some very unique plants to their collection.
The summer is the easiest time to grow high humidity plants, unless an air conditioner is used. Moving the plants outside to a porch is a great way to satisfy humidity needs. The winter time is the most challenging as the air is cold and dry due to the weather and our heating systems. There are some easy ways to increase humidity in a home, however. The first is to add a humidifier, but I have found these end up causing mold issues sooner or later. A pebble tray or some other kind of tray of water set under the plants, but not touching the pot/soil, can do a fairly good job of increasing humidity. It will need to have water added once or twice a day. My favorite way of increasing humidity is by grouping a bunch of plants all together in one area. They all seem to help each other out by increasing humidity in that spot as they transpire. A fish tank or bowl of water can also increase the humidity in the room substantially. A spray bottle can be used to temporarily increase humidity, but the effects are too short-lived to be worthwhile. Placing a glass or plastic dome over a plant or a small terrarium/plant cabinet is a great way to increase the humidity permanently. Another idea is to place these plants in a humid bathroom environment where showers are taken. There are a number of really unique plants that will make for a fascinating collection if the extra humidity puzzle can be solved.
The first two plants that I absolutely love are collectively called Jewel Orchids. I have not found them to be too difficult to grow, but they do not tolerate drying out yet cannot sit in water. I place them on my nightstand next to and underneath some other more “normal” plants. The Jewel Orchid, Ludisia discolor, is an unusual plant has really dark maroon or brown leaves with reflective pink lines. The Lightning Jewel Orchid, Macodes petola, has dark green leaves with reflective yellow lines, living up to its namesake.
Many vining plants like high humidity too. Any of the common ones like Pothos (Epipremnum sp.), Philodendron, Scindapsus, and Monstera tolerate our normal home humidity well, but will grow much larger leaves when exposed to beneficial high humidity. A more difficult plant is Cissus discolor, and words cannot fully describe its beauty. The leaves have a pattern of green, marron, pink, and white in them that is unbelievably gorgeous. This one is so difficult to overwinter that many times I end up taking cuttings of the vines and putting them under a dome. I mist inside the dome frequently and in the spring, I start over by potting the cuttings up in a hanging basket. For a blooming vine, try the bleeding heart vine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, with its white and red flowers.
The genus Labisia has some mind-blowing, incredible colors and patterns. These plants are expensive, but worth a try. Anthurium, Alocasia, and Syngonium generally have arrow or heart shaped leaves. They have some very unique patterns and shapes, but they do struggle and die if the humidity drops. The prices are all over and just depend on the variety. Other foliage plants include Begonia rex with all sorts of colors and patterns or Fittonia with red, pink, or white stripes on green leaves. Why not try taking the houseplant hobby to the next level by adding some humidity loving plants?
The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension office at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
How to Keep Container Plants From Drying Out So Fast and Cut Back on Daily Watering, According to Pros
The Spruce – Heather Zidack discusses why container mixes dry out so fast and how to maintain healthy container gardens.
Tree Burls
Burls are sound, hard, woody swellings or protrusions that form on the trunks, branches, or roots of trees. They often appear as rounded or ridged masses with normal bark tissue. Burls are benign and are the result of a response in growth to outside stresses. The normal bark texture of the tree will be on the exterior surface of the burl.
The exact cause of burl formation is a mystery, but these growths are formed by abnormal cell proliferation by the xylem. This growth can be triggered by stress factors such as environmental injury, insect feeding damage, or infections from fungal or bacterial pathogens. Some are thought to be the result of genetic factors that trigger abnormal growth without outside influences. Most burls are not causes of concern to the health of otherwise normally growing trees. Removal of burls from trees is not recommended as it will cause more harm than if the burl remains on the tree.
Some tree species seem to have more burls than others. In our area oaks, maples, willows, cherry and elms have more of a tendency to form burls than other tree species. Sometimes small groups of the same tree species in a tight area may all have burls. Whether the cause is environmental, genetic or both would require a good amount of research. Even then, the root cause may be impossible to discover.
Recently, a friend showed me a tree with one of the largest burls I have seen. This tree was located about a mile into the woods and was a good distance from the trail, but easily visible. It was almost five feet high and went almost completely around the trunk of the mature tree it was growing on.
Because of the nature of unique formation and structure of burls, grain formation is unusual, creating swirling patterns that can be very beautiful. A bird’s eye pattern is the result of an aborted adventitious bud. This makes wood galls a highly prized find by woodworkers, who use the wood especially for veneers and bowls.
There are woody galls caused by gall- forming mites, wasps or by fungal pathogens that are sometimes mistaken for burls. These include the black knot galls that form on infected black cherry and other Prunus species and are caused by a fungal pathogen, as well as horned galls on oaks that result from feeding by gall wasps. These types of growths can be harmful to the host tree.
To tell if an abnormal growth on a tree is a burl or a gall, compare the outer surface and texture of the growth. Burls have smooth, rounded surfaces that are fully covered in bark. The tissue is solid wood and will have intricate, swirling grain patterns. Galls typically have a rough texture to their surface, somewhat tumor-like and with vertical or horizontal ridges. The interior is not solid wood, but instead may be papery, pulpy or otherwise somewhat softer than the wood and is usually discolored. If cut open, there may be a wasp larva or a mite inside the gall. While both a gall and a burl result from excessive cell division, the causes are very different.
If you want to learn more, a good article on tree burls can be found on this link from the University of New Hampshire written by forestry field specialist Greg Jordan.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Something Rotten in Tomato Land?
With the lazy, hazy days of summer in full swing, your vegetable garden is likely in full production mode. Tomatoes should be producing lots of blossoms by now with the earlier varieties offering ripening fruit. While it is true that tomatoes can be challenging to grow in New England, being susceptible to several diseases as well as some abiotic disorders, there are few summer pleasures greater than taking that bite of the first, ripe, sun-kissed tomato. That’s most likely the reason that 86% of food gardeners, according to the National Gardening Association, chose to grow them.
Between summer heat, sporadic rainfall, vacations and inconsistent watering, some of us are noticing black sunken patches on the blossom end (bottoms) of our ripening fruit. This is an abiotic or physiological disorder known as blossom end rot. It starts out with a small water-soaked area that enlarges and darkens as the tomato tries to ripen. The affected tissue has a dark, leathery appearance and may be colonized by a bacteria giving it a black color.
The cause of this disorder is lack of calcium. Most of us know that people require calcium for strong bones and healthy teeth. Plants also have calcium requirements that must be met for good growth and establishment. It is needed for the proper growth and functioning of shoot and root tips and is an integral part of cell walls. As your tomatoes grow in size, more cells with more cell walls are needed.
Plants take up the calcium they need through their roots. Nutrients like calcium, potassium and others are dissolved in the water that is in the soil. When a plant loses moisture on a hot day through the process of transpiration, the roots take up water to replace that loss and keep the plant turgid. The soil water contains nutrients the plants need. Anything that restricts the plant roots’ ability to take up water also reduces the amount of nutrients a plant receives.
Blossom end rot is usually caused by one of two factors. Either there is not enough calcium in the soil or there is not enough water in the soil for the calcium to be able to move into the plant. Sometimes, because of the high humidity, factor number three comes into play. Plants are not transpiring that much because of the high humidity. Since little water is being lost through the leaves, little water (containing calcium and other nutrients as well) is being absorbed by the roots. So even if your soil is loaded with calcium, and your garden is irrigated, plants may not able to transport enough calcium from the soil water into their internal structures.
If blossom end rot is noticed, first take a soil sample and send it to a soil testing laboratory (s.uconn.edu/soil-lab) to determine the soil pH and calcium levels. Often if calcium levels in the soil are too low, plants would also be exhibiting signs of deficiency including stunted growth, curling of leaves and perhaps spotting or scorching on leaves. Follow any recommendations for limestone additions if the pH or calcium levels are too low.
Next, evaluate your watering techniques. Often this disorder occurs when succulent, vigorously growing plants are subjected to drought conditions. It is best to water deeply and less often than to water lightly on a daily basis. After watering, dig a small hole to check if the top 6 inches or so of soil are moistened. Adjust your watering schedule accordingly and if at all possible, just apply water to the base of the plant and avoid getting the foliage wet to discourage diseases. There isn’t much one can do to lower the humidity and increase plant transpiration rates except hope for a bout of dry weather.
To thwart blossom end rot, some gardeners are purchasing blossom set sprays containing calcium to apply to their plants’ foliage. Others are fertilizing and spraying the plant’s foliage with calcium chloride, as directed on the package or making up a calcium solution by mixing gypsum or limestone with water and letting it sit overnight. After 24 hours or so, it can be used to drench the plants and soil. Gypsum can also be applied around the plants at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet and carefully scratched into the soil. Take care not to injure your tomato plant’s roots and water afterwards. Another option is to search out water soluble fertilizers that contain calcium and can also be used as a foliar spray and apply them to the plant’s leaves.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension office at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Water your CT Garden with Confidence
Watering is an essential skill for gardeners that is often overlooked. “How often should I water and how much?” is a frequent question with new gardens or when establishing new plants.
There’s no magic formula for watering your plants. The soil texture, local climate, and even the metabolism of your plants can affect how often water needs to be replenished. So how do we know what to do? Over time, experienced gardeners form a sense of their soil and their plant’s needs, and perfect their watering practices.
What plants really need
Most established garden plants require about 1 inch of water per week from rainfall and irrigation combined. When mother nature doesn’t provide this through rainfall, we can supplement by adding about 0.62 gallons of water per square foot in a garden bed. However, actual needs vary with soil type, weather conditions, plant species, and stage of growth.
Knowing your soil texture can help you anticipate what your watering schedule might look like. Sandy soils are known for rapid drainage, which often means they require more frequent watering. Clay soils, on the other hand, hold water for longer periods and generally need less frequent irrigation. Plants also have preferences for different soil types, many of which are related to water availability and drainage. Choosing the right plant for the right site can help ensure it receives adequate moisture.
A plant's water demand may vary depending on its stage of growth. For example, we tend to encourage additional support for plants that are fruiting/flowering, or plants that have just recently been transplanted. Keep a close eye on these plants and their water needs during stressful periods. Newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials need this additional monitoring and support through their first year of establishment in the landscape. You may find that you’re watering them more frequently during this time. This can be totally normal.
Sometimes, soil can appear dark even when it hasn’t been watered, so don’t rely on appearances alone. Your hands are one of the most reliable tools for checking soil moisture. Dig a few inches below the surface and feel the soil. If it feels cool and slightly moist, watering can likely wait. If it feels dry and crumbly, it's time to water. If the soil feels saturated or releases water when squeezed, allow it to dry somewhat before watering again.
Water Deeply
Giving your plants a good soak does more than just help them in the short term. Deep watering provides a slow, thorough soak that reaches the plant’s root zone rather than just the soil surface. This encourages deeper root growth and can improve drought tolerance, often allowing for less frequent watering. For most vegetables and perennials, water should reach at least 6–12 inches into the soil. Trees and shrubs may benefit from moisture penetrating even deeper into the root zone.
Apply water slowly at the dripline so it soaks in without pooling or running off. Use a soaker hose, or a regular hose on a slow trickle over the root zone of your plants. Avoid high-flow sprinklers, since they may cause runoff. Keep in mind that water movement depends on soil type.
Check the soil every so often to ensure that water is penetrating deep enough and set a timer for yourself. After a few watering cycles, you will become familiar with the timing and flow rate for your specific soil and plants.
Stay Consistent
Don’t automatically change your watering habits just because the temperature changes. Hot weather can increase water demand, but it is essential to always check the soil first. During periods of heat and drought stress, plants can close their stomata and reduce water use as a survival mechanism. While this may slow water uptake, plants still need adequate soil moisture. Overwatering, however, may not be helpful. Instead, roots can sit in saturated soil and develop diseases like root rot. Always check the top few inches of soil to ensure water is needed.
When weather starts to cool off in the fall, continue your watering practices. By watering until the ground freezes, you help your plants, survive the winter. The effects of winter burn can be reduced when evergreens enter the winter properly hydrated.
Watering is an essential task in the garden year-round. It is important to know your plants, your soil, and the climate you are growing in to ensure you are giving your plants enough hydration. By watering only when needed, watering deeply, and continuing these practices well into the fall, you will be sure to have healthy plants year round!
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
What’s Going Down with Your CT Basil This Summer?
Vegetable Stress, Watering, and Other July News
Scout for Summer Tomato Issues
Tomato growth is in full swing this July! Below are some common diseases and issues tomatoes often experience this time of year.
These resources act as a great starting guide if you're scouting your home gardens!
We always recommend a confirmed diagnosis to ensure a targeted management strategy. Doing so can save you time, money and energy by knowing you've applied the correct product on the first time. If you see any of these issues in your garden, don't hesitate to reach out to the Home Garden Education Office or the Plant Diagnostic Lab for assistance with confirmation and developing a management plan!
Interesting Insects: Prionus Borers
Prionus laticollis, broad- necked root borers are large black beetles up to an inch and a half long can be seen crawling across lawns, sidewalks and driveways in early summer.
Larvae are very large and feed on roots of woody ornamentals and tree roots in the soil for three years. Adults emerge from July to September. The larvae are pests, and adults could be killed when found to reduce larval populations in the future. Adults otherwise are not injurious to plants.
