Author: Zidack, Heather

Feeling blue? How Blue Pigments Create Vibrant Hues in Plants

By Natasha Raymond, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Clusters of vibrant blue hydrangea flowers densely packed among lush green leaves, filling the frame with layered blooms and foliage.
Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is one of the few flowers that can have a natural blue hue. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

Blue is a color seldom seen in nature. Although the sky and bodies of water appear blue, very few animals and plants also exhibit this striking color. Anthocyanins, a type of pigment, are responsible for creating the red, purple, and blue hues found in plants. Anthocyanins are sensitive to environmental effects, such as acidity and the presence of metal ions. A primary example of this phenomenon is seen in the primary pigment Delphinidin, a type of anthocyanin.  Delphinidin changes color in the presence of aluminum ions, which become more soluble/available in acidic environments. Bigleaf hydrangeas contain this pigment, infamously lining the neighborhoods of Connecticut in a range of pastel blues to deep fuchsia hues dependent on soil pH levels.

Other plants, such as the blue oil fern, can appear iridescent blue due to structural color. Since they are accustomed to the dim understory of the rainforest, these plants must take advantage of as much light as they can get. Many plants reflect green light the most, creating their characteristic green hue. Blue oil ferns have specialized chloroplasts on the surface of their leaves called iridoplasts, allowing the plant to capture more green light rather than reflect it. These iridoplasts create a shiny blue appearance despite no blue pigments being present. The arrangement of photosynthetic membranes in iridoplasts creates an optical nanostructure known as photonic crystals that slow down and concentrate light, ultimately allowing the plant to use available light more efficiently.

Many companies have taken the rarity of blue plants as a challenge, working to engineer a blue flower themselves. Roses, orchids, and chrysanthemums have been genetically modified in recent years to achieve this goal, but the results thus far have only yielded shades of purple. One project, the Phalaenopsis Blue Gene Orchid engineered in Japan, was recently deregulated in the United States and thus approved for sale (though not yet widely available). A Delphinidin gene was inserted from an Asiatic dayflower into a pink “Wedding Promenade” orchid. A white orchid flower, an apparent blank canvas, could not be used as a starting point because Delphinidin needs co-pigments to bind and stabilize the color—White Phalaenopsis lacks these important support molecules. The Blue Gene Orchid flowers in a deep purple-indigo, likely due to its intracellular pH and naturally occurring co-pigments that bind and alter coloration.

The easiest method, however, to acquire blue flowers may be available in your kitchen: food coloring. If you place cut flowers into a cup of water with blue food coloring (20-30 drops), the water will be sucked up through water transport tubes (xylem), giving your flowers a pleasant blue coloring. While artificial, it allows for unique customization and can be a great experiment to do with kids. White carnations and roses worked best when I attempted this for my second-grade science fair. Grocery stores selling blue flowers often use this trick via stem injection or may also paint blue coloring on the outside of the flower. While a standalone blue pigment doesn’t exist in plants, nature has found a way to create a beautiful rainbow for us to enjoy!

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 12, 2026

Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall

Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall

The Spruce – Heather Zidack joins other gardening professionals to recommend fall blooming annuals for extending your season of color.

Vascular Invaders – Verticillium and Botryosphaeria fungi

By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Close-up of a cut tree branch showing exposed wood rings and textured bark, held by a hand in an indoor setting.
Ring-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Verticillium wilt. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Vascular plant diseases present a complex series of challenges, both in diagnosis and management. Pathogens of this nature invade the roots and vascular system of their host, stifling the ability of water and essential nutrients to travel throughout the plant. Without proper vascular function, leaves become yellow and wilted. Abnormal discoloration and the pattern which it forms within stem or branch tissue is often the key indication that a vascular disease may be present.  

Two of the most prominent vascular pathogens are fungal species of Verticillium or Botryosphaeria. Both infect a wide array of hosts, overlapping to encompass many ornamental trees, shrubs, and vegetable crops. While there are many similarities between the diseases these pathogens cause, there are also defining characteristics which distinguish one from the other.  

Verticillium dahliae and verticillium albo-atrum have the potential to cause verticillium wilt. Hosts span from vegetables like tomatoes and potatoes to trees like maple and ash. The fungal structures of either species inhabit soil where infected plant debris has decomposed. There, they can survive for 10-15 years. During the pathogen’s dormant phase, survival structures called microsclerotia germinate. Hyphae (filamentous fungal growth structures) are emitted from these structures and can extend to potential hosts within limited distances. Verticillium inoculates hosts by entering root tips or other areas of root formation, breaking through exterior layers to reach the vascular tissue inside. Conidia (spores) are formed in this location, dispersing to other potential hosts, while Verticillium continues to spread throughout the plant.  

Although Verticillium wilt symptoms differ among hosts, abnormalities like leaf yellowing (chlorosis) or browning, wilting, and branch dieback raise suspicion of infection across the board. Symptoms may be isolated to one side of the plant or individual branches. Branch or stem discoloration is another key indicator of infection, accompanied by a streaking and a characteristic ring-shaped brown pattern on the interior of woody tissue. Damage is often concentrated in the lower areas of the plant, as Verticillium invades hosts from their base, working upwards. 

The persistence and longevity of Verticillium structures in soil makes crop rotation and the destruction of diseased tissue crucial to disease management. While it’s usually best to remove the diseased plant entirely, woody plants with minor infections can survive for several more years, provided affected branches are pruned away and tools used for pruning are disinfected after use. Rubbing alcohol is a good choice, but there are several other disinfectants on the market labeled for use with tools. Do not compost or use diseased tissue for wood chips, as remaining fungal structures will survive for several years and may infect new host plants.  

Close-up cross-section of a woody stem showing internal tissue discoloration and visible growth rings against a light background.
Wedge-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Botryosphaeria infection. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Botryosphaeria canker and dieback are attributed to several causal agents in the Botryosphaeriaceae family. Botryosphaeria is an opportunistic pathogen, choosing already stressed plants to infect and taking advantage of their weakened defense systems. Stress can stem from many sources—frequently environmental challenges, insect infestations, or prior instances of disease. While this group of pathogens has an extensive range of hosts, it is often observed on woody ornamentals—viburnum or rhododendron, for example—and trees like dogwood or maple. Fungal structures overwinter on previously infected tissue, or as endophytes which silently colonize plants without causing symptoms until they become weakened. Botryosphaeria uses many routes of entry when invading its hosts, including open wounds, cracks, or lenticels—porous openings on branch and stem tissue used for gas exchange.  

As a vascular pathogen, wilting and dieback are characteristic symptoms of disease, accompanied by necrotic patches on bark and branches. Branches become girdled, and sunken cankers are evident. Depending on the host, sap may ooze from these areas, and black fungal sporulation (pycnidia) may be visible. Unlike verticillium wilt, interior vascular discoloration due to Botryosphaeria infection appears in wedges, resembling a slice of pie.  

To manage Botryosphaeria canker and dieback, it is important to minimize sources of stress which can leave plants susceptible to infection. Appropriate pruning and sanitation practices, routine fertilization in accordance with the plant’s needs, and protection from environmental stressors (drought, heat, or cold) are all vital to maintaining vigor. Take care to prevent mechanical injury and wounds, minimizing the potential modes of entry for the pathogen.  

As is the case with all plant diseases, laboratory analysis is required for an accurate diagnosis. If you suspect your plant has been infected by a vascular disease, submit branch tissue to the UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory for evaluation. Remember to collect tissue that is just beginning to appear symptomatic, as the lab is unable to diagnose plants that are already dead.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 7, 2026

Planting Peonies, Spotted Lanternflies, Pokeweed, and Other September News

September 2026 banner with green trees reflecting off a pond, and a college campus in the background.

O sweet September rain!
I hear it fall upon the garden beds,
Freshening the blossoms which begin to wane...

~Mortimer Collins, "Rain in September"

Peonies

This month is the perfect time to plant, divide, or transplant peonies, allowing tubers to establish themselves before winter arrives and the ground freezes. Six weeks of temperatures below 40°F are required for proper flowering in the spring. Choose a site with full sun and well-drained soil to avoid root rot issues. Dig a hole large enough to fit the tuber and its root system, working a form of organic matter, such as compost, into the soil. Nestle the tuber inside—about 1-2 inches from the soil surface. Planting too deeply will prevent proper flowering in the spring. Water the new planting well, adding mulch if needed to maintain moisture.  

If transplanting, cut peony stems close to ground level. Dig around and under the plant to gather up the root system. Similar to when planting new tubers, transplanted peonies should not be buried deeper than 2 inches below the soil surface.  

If dividing a previous planting, carefully dig up the peony and its root system. With a properly sanitized tool, carefully cut the root tubers into small sections with 3-5 buds each and plant according to the guidelines above.

About Peonies

Peony Care

Spotted Lanternfly & Tree of Heaven

Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Spotted Lantenrfly (SLF) is an invasive insect introduced from Asia. It arrived in Connecticut in 2020 and has since spread throughout the state. The preferred host plant is Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but it will feed on many other genera of plants. SLF poses a threat to Connecticut agriculture because of its feeding on some fruit crops. At this point in the season, destroying eggs by scraping or crushing them will be most effective at reducing next year's population. Nymphs and adults can be treated with contact insecticides including insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or other insecticides according to label instructions. Circle traps can be used to capture nymphs next year.

About Spotted Lanternfly

About Tree-of-Heaven

How to Build a Spotted Lanternfly Circle Trap

What to Know about Spotted Lanternfly in Connecticut

 

 

Moth with grey wings with black spots on an orange leaf.
Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Tree of Heaven (TOH) is an invasive tree in CT. It is also the preferred host plant for the invasive spotted lanternfly (SLF). This tree forms dense colonies through its suckering root system. Female trees can produce hundreds of thousands of seeds annually. Removing this tree is recommended, but careful consideration should be taken because when injured or cut down, the tree can produce many stump sprouts or root suckers. Systemic herbicides applications are recommended from mid-summer through early fall.

Pokeweed - A Native Nusiance

Pokeweed is a native perennial that is having a banner year in 2026 in Connecticut.  With its multiple branching habit and height-up to 10 feet- it can be mistaken for a shrub.

It is generally considered a weed in gardens and residential spaces. However, in the wild, the dark purple fruit are of value to birds and small mammals.

Pokeweed is best controlled is by pulling out young plants before the taproot gets firmly established. Other control methods are highlighted in the article below.

All plant parts are poisonous to humans and pets, and wearing gloves, long sleeves and closed toed shoes is recommended when handling all parts of the plant.

Learn More About Pokeweed

Controlling Pokeweed


 Interesting Insects: American Lady Butterflies

Orange and brown butterfly with black and white markings resting on a green leaf.
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American lady butterflies, Vanessa virginiensis, are among the several butterfly genera that migrate in both spring and fall, like the monarchs. As they head south in late summer, flowers like goldenrods, Tithonia spp. of Mexican sunflowers, zinnias, asters and lantana are among the plants they use as food sources on their way south.

This is a very fast flyer as it wings its way around the landscape. It is very similar to the painted lady, Vanessa carduii, but it has two large eyespots on the rear wing instead of the four smaller eyespots of the painted lady. Plus, the forewing orange cell of the American lady just below the dark area with the white markings has a white dot in the center.

American Lady vs. Painted Lady Butterflies


Native Plant Highlight: Beaked Hazelnut

Curved hazelnut husk split into two horn-like sections, lit by sunlight and resting among large green leaves.

Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Beaked Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta)

Corylus cornuta, is a native, easy to grow multi-stemmed shrub that grows in full sun to part shade. It can form thickets by sending up suckers from rhizomes.

Edible nuts about a half inch in size are enclosed in a beaked husk, and nuts can be harvested in late summer.  The fruit is unique when joined together in pairs- the whole fruit resembles Brunhilda 's horned opera hat. Fall leaf color is yellow bronze.

Learn More About Beaked Hazelnut

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.  

The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List


Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Get The Dirt On Your Soil - Soil Test This Fall!

As the summer season comes to a close and fall starts to move in, the perfect time to test your soil rapidly approaches. A fall soil test can help you start preparing for the following spring and summer season, even before winter begins! A soil test allows you to get a glimpse of what is going on in your soil, like the pH, nutrient levels, organic matter, and more! It helps to establish a base line to see if any soil amendments need to be added to improve your soil health. If any are needed, applying slow release nutrients, such as lime, in the fall can be very beneficial as the additions can slowly release into the soil over winter, and have your soil ready for growing in the spring. Fall crops and ground cover can even uptake the nutrients and have an even better spring green up! Don’t guess, soil test this fall!

By Zaira O'Leary, Soil Science Master's Student, UConn PSLA

Fall is the Perfect Time for Soil Sampling

Fall is a Great Time to Lime and Fertilize Lawns

UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

 


Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

Monthly Temperature Outlook Map of United States
Monthly Precipitation Outlook Map of United States

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                      Join us at Upcoming Talks!

                      A Walk on the Wild Side with Pamm Cooper
                      September 8 - 11:00AM
                      Canton Community Center, Canton CT
                      Details

                       

                      Events & Learning Opportunities from UConn Extension

                      George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

                      October 17th, 2026
                      11:00AM - 3:00PM

                      27A Manter Rd, Storrs CT

                      Join us for a free, family-friendly open house at UConn’s newest center! Learn more about our services and expertise in home gardening, plant diagnostics, soil and nutrient health, and turfgrass.

                      - Tours of the new George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center

                      - Hands-on plant and soil health demonstrations

                      - Lawn and garden questions answered

                      - Free soil pH testing

                      - Free plant diagnostic/nutrient analysis coupons (limited qty)

                      - UConn Hort-club Plant sale

                      - UConn Dairy Bar will be open

                      - Wagon rides, games, prizes, and more!

                      UConn Master Composter Program

                      What is the Master Composter Program?
                      Between 10 and 25% of a typical household’s waste can be recycled right in our own backyards. This significantly reduces the amount of waste that is incinerated or trucked to state and municipal landfills. The UConn Master Composter Program educates and trains state residents about the composting process and prepares participants to pass that knowledge on to others through outreach.

                      Program Details
                      Format: Hybrid, with two in-person Saturday sessions and two online evening sessions

                      Program fee: $100 per student

                      Class size: Limited to 25 participants

                      Certification: Participants must attend all class sessions and complete outreach projects totaling about 20 volunteer hours to receive a UConn Master Composter Certificate & Badge.

                      Suggested topics: Composting basics; compost chemistry, contaminants, and testing; compost recipes and calculators; community composting; earthworms; vermicomposting; and public education approaches.

                      For more information including registration and program updates, email soiltest@uconn.edu.

                       

                      2026 CIPWG Symposium

                      The Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group's 2026 symposium From Awareness to Action - Strengthening Our Response to Invasive Plants will be in person at UConn Student Union, Storrs, CT, open to all; Wednesday, October 28, 2026.

                      Sessions include a variety of techniques for management of terrestrial and aquatic invasives, as well as restoration with native alternatives.

                      The symposium will be recorded and made available after the event. Attendees can choose to attend in person or purchase the recording. CEUs for organizations and Pesticide Recertification Credits are available.

                      $90 General Registration (in person attendance). $80 Recording Only; Student Registration Available.

                      Learn more and register at: cipwg.uconn.edu/2026-symposium/

                      Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026 

                      Registration is now open for the Fall 2026 Online Ornamental & Turf Short Course! The course runs October 7–December 16, 2026, with weekly live online sessions held on Wednesdays from 5:30–7:30 p.m.

                      Registration Cost: $400 (includes the Pesticide Applicator Core ManualOrnamental & Turf Category Manual, and printed course materials).
                      For information on student registration or if you are retaking the course, please contact the instructor, Srikanth Kodati (contact information can be found at the end of this email).

                      This short course provides an in-depth review of the material needed to prepare for the Connecticut Supervisory Pesticide Applicator Certification Exam (Category 3A: Ornamental & Turf/Golf Course Superintendents). Students who complete all modules, quizzes, and resource materials will be well prepared for both the written and oral state exams.

                      To register for the course:
                      s.uconn.edu/turfcourse

                      For more information: https://ipm.cahnr.uconn.edu/pesticide-course/

                      Please reach out to Srikanth (course instructor) at srikanth.kodati@uconn.edu or call 860-870-6935 if you have any questions. 


                      September Gardening Tips

                              • Mid to late September is a great time to add accent plants, like vivid mums and starry asters, that will provide autumn colors in the landscape. Use them along with cool-colored ornamental cabbages and kales to replace bedraggled annuals in containers as well
                              • Lift and store tender bulbs, such as cannas, dahlias and gladiolus, after first frost
                              • Spring and summer blooming perennials like daylilies and bearded irises can still be dug up and divided
                              • Early autumn is a great time to plant perennials
                              • Do not fertilize perennials any more this season. Pushing new growth too close to frost can cause damage to your plants
                              • Late season cabbage and beets can stay in the garden until a light frost for best flavor. Some root crops, including certain varieties of beets, carrots and parsnips, may be left in the ground for storage. Wait until temperatures drop and growth stops and cover with a thick layer of straw or leaves. Harvest as needed during the winter. This may not be an option in areas with heavy vole populations.
                              • Continue to water any new shrub or tree plantings until the first hard frost.
                              • Continue to turn and moisten compost piles to speed decomposition.
                              • Apply fall fertilizer to lawns between Sept. 15th and Oct. 15th.
                              • As tomatoes end their production, cut down plants, pick up any debris and put dead/diseased plant parts in the trash or take to a landfill. Many diseases will over-winter on old infected leaves and stems so these are best removed from the property.
                              • Harvest onions once tops have fallen over and necks have started to dry down and shrink just above the bulb.


                              This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                              Pamm Cooper, Zaira O'Leary, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Heather Zidack

                              Tips for Harvesting Herbs

                              By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Fresh sage leaves arranged on a textured white cloth surface.
                              Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

                              With the Dog Days of summer behind us and Labor Day on the horizon, there’s still plenty of time to both enjoy your garden’s beauty and bounty as well as finish harvesting aromatic herbs for culinary use. Even a small pot or planting of basil, thyme, rosemary and the like can supply a fair amount of flavor to your favorite dishes.  

                              Methods of harvesting vary from fresh use to frozen to dried depending on your preferences. Regardless of how you intend to prepare them, follow these few suggestions for harvesting. Start with clean hands, clean scissors or clippers and a clean container to place your herbs in. Make sure your scissors or clippers are sharp to make clean cuts.  

                              Most herbs can be harvested throughout the summer. Annual herbs can be picked until they start looking ragged or get hit by the frost. Typically, late August through early September is the last time to clip perennial herbs as the tender new growth that is encouraged by harvesting could be damaged by the frost if plants are harvested too late in the season.  

                              Also, as a general rule of thumb, herbs grown for their aromatic leaves are most pungent when harvested before flowering. This may leave some pollinator friendly gardeners with a dilemma as the flowers of many herb plants, like oregano and thyme, are especially attractive to pollinating bees and others. One way to deal with this if plants are of good size is to harvest half to two-thirds of the plants earlier in the season before they flower and later, cut the spent flowering stems back. Usually that gives you a second harvest about now.  

                              Always harvest herbs in the morning, shortly after the dew dries but before the heat of day sets in. The essential oils are highest before the heat causes them to evaporate. When harvesting herbs for their flowers, like chamomile, borage and calendula, pick the blossoms just before fully opened. Seed heads of dill, fennel or coriander can be cut right into paper bags so as not to lose any seeds. Leave a few heads if you want these plants to self-seed. I had not had to purchase dill seeds for over 20 years in my old garden as they just reseeded themselves.  

                              How much of a herb plant’s foliage can you remove? Anywhere from 30 to 70 percent depending on the plant. Quick growing plants such as oregano, mints, parsley and basil can generally have more of their foliage removed than slower growing potted rosemary and, in my yard, tarragon. Collect handfuls of leafy stems and bring inside to inspect before processing.  

                              Plants can be rinsed if they have dust or dirt on them but if harvested after a rain or from a mulched bed, often they are clean enough not to need washing. Pick through them for any insects, damaged leaves or debris. If plants need to be rinsed, shake them and then spread them out on cloth or paper towels to dry. Generally, herbs that are not used fresh are either frozen or more typically dried.   

                              Freezing herbs is quite easy. Simply chop them in small enough pieces to add to your water filled ice cube tray and freeze. Once frozen, the cubes can be popped out and stored in freezer bags or containers. Use for flavoring in soups, stews and other culinary dishes. 

                              Herbs can be dried in little bundles, on screens, in a microwave, oven or dehydrator depending on your preferences. If you have a dry, airy, dimly lit area, you might want to make small bundles of herbs to hang upside down to dry. Seed heads, such as dill, can be bundled together and placed upside down in a paper bag. Punch a few holes in the bag, gather it at the top and hang to dry. Seeds will fall into the bottom of the bag. Leafy herbs could be spread out and placed on drying screens. Air drying works best when we have periods of low humidity. 

                              Since this is often not the case in August, many opt to dry herbs in a microwave or dehydrator. Old gas stoves with an always on pilot light in the oven make ideal drying places. Except for the dill seeds which I bag, the microwave works best for me. Not only is it a quick way to dry herbs but they keep their nice green color. The key to successful microwave drying is to just dry small batches of herbs at one time and experiment with the timing. Herbs should be placed on a plate between 2 paper towels and then start your microwave from 30 to 60 seconds and see how that works. In between bursts, the herbs can be stirred and the bottom paper towel replaced if it gets too wet. Continue in short bursts until you come up with a good routine for your microwave. I have not used a dehydrator so if using, follow the directions that come with the unit.   

                              Dried herbs are flavorful for at least one year. After drying, crumble them slightly and store in well-sealed glass or plastic jars. I repurpose ones that originally held herbs and spices. Take some time now to preserve some of summer’s best flavors. Come cooler days, you’ll be glad you did.   

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 30, 2026

                              August: The Month That Shapes Next Year’s Garden

                              By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Close-up of a purple artichoke flower in bloom, surrounded by thick green bracts and unopened buds. Bright yellow-orange flowers are softly blurred in the background, creating a colorful garden scene.
                              Photo by H. Zidack

                              It’s been a strange year. While many gardeners typically start to feel as if their season is starting to wind down in August, some gardens this year seem to finally be hitting their stride. Regardless, with fall just ahead of us, this month provides a fantastic opportunity to reflect, and plan for your next growing season all while the weather is still on your side!

                              While your garden is still in flower and plants are still well established, it is a great time of year to document this growing season for yourself. Gardeners have used systems of colored golf tees, rocks, or other means to mark out where perennials are in the garden so that they do not disturb them during spring planting or cleanup. Others will sketch out their gardens on graph paper. For perennials, this is a great way to remember what species are planted, and when they flower so that you can shop for additions. This method is particularly useful for vegetable garden beds, which many try to rotate each season. By sketching out what is currently planted, you will be able to identify new locations for next season’s rotation.

                              It’s always easier to reflect on something while it’s in front of you. Keep a journal and note what went well this season and what didn’t while it is fresh in mind. Include pests and diseases so you are aware of what to scout for next season, before it’s an issue. Even though next year’s conditions may be different, this documentation will help you have an idea of timing, locations, or practices that can be improved on in the next growing season.

                              While it may not quite be time to start shopping for seeds or starts for next season, note the varieties of vegetables that did well in your garden, and ones that you might skip for next year. Taking note of diseases or pests will also help you with your winter seed shopping by helping you identify if resistant varieties are out there to help you combat those issues. Creating this list now will help you when it comes time for those January seed orders!

                              If you still want to play in the dirt, this is a good time of year to divide your spring and summer blooming perennials. Division not only provides an opportunity for your plants to have a little extra growing room in the garden bed, but some see it as a way of getting free plants from your garden! Enhance other garden spaces with additional plant material where it may fit. If your plants are healthy and free of pests and disease, you can even share divisions with family, friends or neighbors.

                              Late summer and fall blooming perennials are best divided in the spring so that they are not expending energy on both flowering and establishment at the same time. Always make sure to follow proper watering guidelines to help any transplanted divisions establish in their new spot in the garden. Even though the plants have been in your garden for a long time, once they are moved the clock resets on their “establishment period.” They’ve taken a hit to their root system and may need your support to recover. Ensure plants are receiving one inch of water per week (roughly 0.62 gallons per sq foot), to help them establish a healthy root system. Always feel the soil to determine whether supplemental water is necessary.

                              Spring bulbs and Peony roots will be planted in the coming months, so prepare by shopping early! Unique varieties will sell out quickly and you will want to make sure you get what you need for planting time.

                              We’re also approaching a fine time of year to have your soil nutrition tested so that you’re ready to go next spring! Typically, the springtime sees a rush for soil testing and there can be delays, which mean more time waiting before implementing your fertilizer programs. By testing in the fall, you have your recommendations ready to go when the soil warms up next spring!

                              Don’t underestimate the value of a detailed gardening journal and a few garden markers to help you remember where things are in your garden, how well they did, and what you may need to watch out for next year! Many successful gardeners have a collection of journals or notes that help them build upon what they learn from season to season. August is the perfect time of year to start documenting those observations while they’re fresh in your mind, and there’s still plenty of gardening left in the year!

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 23, 2026

                              Invasive or Aggressive? Why the Difference Matters in Your Garden

                              By Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Wide meadow filled with tall yellow wildflowers under a clear blue sky, bordered by trees and distant low hills in the background.
                              Canada goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) is an aggressive, native plant. Photo by Lauren Kurtz

                              You’re in the garden, staring at that same patch of weeds spreading year after year into your flower beds. You grumble how invasive they are. Or are they aggressive? Conversationally, both invasive and aggressive paint the same picture but if you read the fine print, they mean different things.

                              In everyday conversation, the two words can sound interchangeable. In horticulture and ecology, however, they mean different things. That distinction can shape how we manage plants, communicate with other gardeners and landscape professionals, and understand the regulations that apply to certain species. Gardening lingo can be nuanced and details matter.

                              Let’s begin with the broadest term: weed. A weed is simply a plant growing where it is not wanted. A weed may be otherwise desirable when it’s growing where we want it. Ralph Waldo Emerson famously said a weed is “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.” A weed is more a description of where a plant is growing; it does not give away information about the plant’s provenance or growth habit.

                              Aggressive describes the growth behavior of a plant. Weeds and plants we grow in our gardens can be aggressive. Native and nonnative plants can be aggressive too. Aggressive plants can outcompete other plants for resources and outgrow the space allotted to them. Not all aggressive plants are invasive, but in some cases an aggressive, non-native plant can be categorized as invasive.

                              Invasive plants are nonnative and have demonstrated the ability to spread aggressively, establish outside of cultivation into natural areas, and outcompete native plants. People have introduced plants beyond their native ranges for centuries both intentionally and unintentionally. Most introduced, nonnative plants do not become invasive, but those that do can cause significant, costly problems for landowners, communities, and land managers. Invasive plants often have legal or regulatory implications.

                              The way invasive plants are regulated varies state to state. In Connecticut, a plant is considered invasive if it meets a set of ecological criteria outlined in Connecticut General Statutes 22a-381a. Connecticut’s Invasive Plants Council uses these criteria to recommend which plants belong on the state’s invasive plant list. The list is periodically updated by the State legislature as additional plants meeting the invasive plant criteria are identified. There are more than 100 plants on Connecticut’s invasive plant list.

                              What does it mean for a plant to be native or nonnative? Native plants are species that have occurred in a region without the benefit of human introduction. Depending on the context, native can mean native to the United States, to New England, to Connecticut, or to a smaller locale. There are different opinions about what makes a plant native and at what geographic scale. The most important consideration is that native plants coevolved alongside other species in their native range and are part of the greater ecological community. Native plants can be considered aggressive, but they are not considered invasive.

                              In summary, what defines a weed is a matter of opinion. Aggressive plants have robust growth, can be native or nonnative, and are sometimes further classified as invasive. All invasive plants are nonnative and are usually aggressive.

                              The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 16, 2026

                              Spotted lanternflies reach peak activity in Connecticut as Blumenthal pushes for action

                              Adult spotted lanternflies are reaching peak activity in Connecticut, raising concerns about the invasive pest and its potential impact on agriculture. Sen. Richard Blumenthal is calling on Congress to pass the Spotted Lanternfly Research and Development Act, which would support more research into ways to control the pest.  Dr. Lauren Kurtz, from the UConn Home Garden Education Office, discusses the potential impacts of this pest. (Summer 2026)

                              Do Home Gardens Need Mycorrhizal Inoculants?

                              By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab 

                              Walk into a garden center, and you may find bags, tubs, and packets of “mycorrhizal inoculants” shelved beside fertilizers and transplants. Their labels promise stronger roots, better yields, improved drought tolerance, and healthier plants. 

                              The science behind mycorrhizae is real. The more practical question is whether the product on the shelf can deliver those benefits and whether your garden needs it at all. 

                              What mycorrhizae actually are 

                              Mycorrhizae are partnerships between plant roots and certain soil fungi. The fungi extend fine threads called hyphae into the surrounding soil, increasing the area from which plants can absorb water and nutrients. In return, the plants provide sugars produced through photosynthesis. These ancient partnerships play an important role in the growth of many plant species. 

                              Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi, or AMF, are the most common type of mycorrhizal fungi associated with lawns, vegetables, and many ornamentals and may be labeled “endomycorrhizae.” Tomatoes, peppers, corn, squash, beans, grasses, and many flowers form these partnerships. Other plants rely on different mycorrhizal fungi. Oaks, birches, hickories, and many conifers commonly associate with ectomycorrhizae, while blueberries and rhododendrons form ericoid mycorrhizae. The inoculant must therefore be compatible with the plant. 

                              What may already be in your soil 

                              In many established garden beds, lawns, meadows, and landscapes, resident mycorrhizal fungi are already present. Their abundance and diversity depend on vegetation, disturbance history, fertilizer use and soil conditions. Adding a commercial fungus to an established soil community does not necessarily improve a partnership that is already functioning. The introduced fungi must still be alive, compatible with the plant, and able to compete with the organisms already there. 

                              Recent research gives gardeners good reason to be cautious. A meta-analysis published in the journal New Phytologist found that roughly 80% of commercial inoculant treatments resulted in minimal or no mycorrhizal root colonization. A separate 2025 evaluation from the University of Zürich of sixteen commercial products found that none of the seven products marketed for home gardening successfully established mycorrhizal symbiosis under controlled conditions. 

                              There are several possible reasons. Mycorrhizal fungi are living organisms and may lose viability during storage. Fungal species also differ in their ability to associate with particular plants and perform under different soil conditions. Independent quality standards and verification remain limited, making it difficult for consumers to know how many viable fungal propagules remain in a product by the time it reaches the garden. 

                              When inoculation may help 

                              Inoculation is most plausible where suitable fungi are scarce or absent, such as in some severely disturbed construction soils, degraded sites, or soilless and pasteurized growing media used for containers and greenhouse transplants. Even then, the plant must be capable of forming the partnership, and the product must contain viable fungi that are compatible with that plant. 

                              Tree and shrub plantings require extra caution. Many woody species rely mainly on ectomycorrhizal or ericoid fungi rather than AMF, so a generic product labeled “mycorrhizae” may contain the wrong organisms for the plant. Read the label carefully and look for the fungal type and species included, not just the word “mycorrhizae.” 

                              Why established gardens often see little benefit 

                              For an established Connecticut vegetable garden or perennial bed, several factors work against a bagged inoculant paying off. 

                              First, the soil may already contain a functioning fungal community. Introduced strains often struggle to establish in soils with diverse resident organisms. When they do establish, they may persist, decline, or alter the existing community, so their effects are not automatically beneficial. 

                              Second, high phosphorus commonly reduces AMF colonization and the plant’s reliance on the partnership. Many long-established vegetable gardens test high in phosphorus after years of compost, manure, or fertilizer applications. A soil test is especially useful before buying an inoculant or adding more phosphorus. 

                              Third, some common crops generally do not form functional mycorrhizal associations. These include broccoli, cabbage, kale, cauliflower, mustard, and radish. Beets, chard, and spinach are also generally considered non-hosts. Applying a mycorrhizal inoculant to a bed planted mainly with these crops is unlikely to provide a meaningful benefit. 

                              Supporting beneficial fungi 

                              For most established Connecticut gardens, lawns, and landscapes, mycorrhizal inoculants may not be necessary because beneficial fungi are often already present. They may be more useful in highly disturbed soils or growing media where compatible fungi are scarce. 

                              Good soil management can help support the fungi already in the soil. Avoid unnecessary tillage, which can break fungal hyphae, and keep living roots in the ground when practical through perennial plantings or compatible cover crops such as annual ryegrass and crimson clover. Test the soil before adding phosphorus, since high phosphorus can reduce the plant’s reliance on mycorrhizae. 

                              Before buying an inoculant, consider whether improving soil conditions and supporting the existing fungal community may be the better first step. 

                              The UConn Home Garden EducationOffice at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Centersupports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extensioncenteratextension.uconn.edu/locations.   

                              This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 9, 2026

                              Healthy Lawns, Sustainable Landscapes, Hanging Baskets, and Other August News

                              August 2026 banner with sunlight shining through green trees against a clear blue sky.

                              “August is ripening grain in the fields blowing hot and sunny, the scent of tree-ripened peaches, of hot buttered sweet corn on the cob. Vivid dahlias fling huge tousled blossoms through gardens...”

                              — Gladys Taber

                              Balancing Healthy Lawns and Sustainable Landscapes

                              Utilized lawn spaces, sometimes referred to as functional lawn spaces, are areas people regularly use. These can be parts of your yard where your children play, your pets explore, or areas you utilize for family barbecues. On a commercial scale, these may be sports fields, town greens, or other recreational areas. 

                              Underutilized lawn spaces are aesthetically appealing when kept up but are not used for heavy foot traffic, recreational, or other personal uses. Many gardeners are choosing to convert underutilized lawn areas into native plantings, pollinator habitats, low growing lawn alternatives, or other landscape features that better meet their goals while reducing maintenance inputs.

                              By differentiating between these two types of lawn spaces, homeowners can determine the level of care and maintenance each area requires. In the long run, this can help them balance healthy lawn areas with more sustainable landscape features.

                              For Connecticut's cool-season lawns, mid-August through mid-September is a prime time to perform lawn renovation and maintenance practices. Performing tasks at the proper time of year helps to reduce over-applicatinon of products.

                              Late Summer/Early Fall Lawn Care Chores

                              • Seeding or Overseeding
                                • Aug 15-Sept 15 is a great time to repair thin or damaged lawn areas by either seeding or overseeding
                              • Dethatching
                                • If thatch accumulation exceeds ¼ inch, dethatching can improve water and nutrient penetration and encourage healthier turf growth
                              • Aerating
                                • Core aeration is generally only needed if soils are compacted
                                • Aeration can improve root growth, water infiltration and overall turf health in compacted areas
                              • Fertilizing
                                • Late summer/fall fertilization should be done in alignment with results from a soil test

                              Take Care of Your Hanging Baskets

                              Orange and yellow flowers with green foliage, featuring a bumblebee resting on one of the blossoms.
                              Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Hanging baskets are a staple of summer, bringing a pop of color and brightness to empty spaces on porches and decks. However, they require extra care and maintenance as their free-floating nature renders them more susceptible to the elements—namely an increased exposure to wind and sun. This leads to drier soils, making it necessary to frequently monitor hanging baskets to meet their watering needs.In especially full baskets with a variety of flowers, roots can become packed together and dry out even faster.

                              Check the soil texture at least once a day and water accordingly, increasing to two or more times on particularly hot and sunny days. Provide baskets with a healthy drink until water runs through the bottom, ensuring moisture will reach all of the roots evenly and thoroughly.  

                              Baskets may also benefit from a trim, especially if you see the center of the basket starting to thin out or turn brown. Cut back your cascading stems by one third to help the plant push new growth out of the center. 

                              How often should I water plants in hanging baskets?

                              Hanging Basket Care


                              Scout for Glossy Buckthorn

                              Green leafy branches with small black berries growing in dappled sunlight.
                              Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Glossy buckthorn (Frangula alnus ) is an invasive shrub or small tree spreading through disturbed areas, forests, wetlands, and edges across the Northeast. This plant leafs out early and retains its foliage later into fall. By doing so, it shades out native plants and disrupts natural forest regeneration. Look for smooth gray bark with prominent lenticels, alternate glossy leaves, and small fruits that change from red to dark purple or black. Birds eat the fruit and spread the seeds. Management is most effective when plants are removed before fruiting, using a combination of cutting and targeted herbicide application to prevent resprouting. Follow the label and all state regulations when choosing to use herbicides. Young or small plants can be manually removed.


                               Interesting Insects: Smaller parasa

                              Bright green smaller parasa slug moth resting on a smooth surface, with fuzzy green wings and brown legs and markings.
                              Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Educatin Office

                              Smaller Parasa slug moths are very small with a shaggy mane of green hairs and a thick green band on its brown forewing. Normally slug moth caterpillars are seen in August- September.

                              The caterpillars of all slug moths have no legs- instead of crawling they glide along by means of medial suckers. Most slug moth caterpillars have urticating spines which can cause a painful sting if touched, and on some species, like the smaller parasa, the spines are hidden until the caterpillar becomes alarmed. The caterpillar shown was found on a pin oak on Horsebarn Hill, UConn.

                              Smaller Parasa


                              Native Plant Highlight: Summersweet

                              Large shrub covered in clusters of white flower spikes, surrounded by dense green foliage in a sunlit woodland setting.

                              Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                              Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)

                              Clethra alnifolia, is a native shrub that is found along watercourses or in damp areas where soils are acidic. Flowers are on white spikes and are very fragrant, attracting many pollinator species. This shrub is clonal and will spread somewhat over time.

                              Also called sweet pepperbush or summersweet, it is often found in the wild with buttonbush, which is also a native and flowers about the same time. There are cultivated varieties including 'Ruby Spice' which has pink flowers. 

                              Learn More About Summersweet

                              The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

                              This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.

                              The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!

                              CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List


                              Word from the WiSE

                              Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

                              Bokashi: The Ferment for Soils

                              Have you ever tried kombucha or kefir for yourself? Have you ever thought soils can have beverages like those?

                              Composting techniques such as vermicompost and leaf compost have certain restrictions with the types of residues that can be incorporated when prepared. With bokashi, a Japanese technique to feed soils, more residues such as manures and other animal wastes can be used. It undergoes a fermentation process at anaerobic conditions, so it is not technically referred as compost. In principle, you add an easy source of carbon like sugar or molasses to your residues, and an inoculum of efficient microorganisms (mostly lactic acid bacteria and yeasts), which will overcontrol the mix and help with the regulation of possible pathogens. The result of this process is a solid that can be incorporated to soil, and a liquid that can be used diluted to fertilize, prevent drain blockages, and even added to accelerate composts!

                              Studies around bokashi are limited but often report high crop yields. Mineralized nitrogen varies depending on the material you use for its preparation. It is important to be cautious and ensure the conditions for the desired microorganisms, and to test for nitrogen content to not exceed its incorporation and generate runoffs and contamination. Nevertheless, no doubt there is an opportunity to use more of our residues and explore its properties. 

                              By Paulette Goyes, elected WISE President & PhD. Student at the Plant Science and Landscape Architecture Department, UConn


                              Weather Outlook

                              A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

                              Monthly Temperature Outlook Map of United States
                              Monthly Precipitation Outlook Map of United States

                              Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                                            Join us at Upcoming Talks!

                                            Slime Molds and Lichens with Pamm Cooper
                                            August 5, 2026 - 1:30PM
                                            Old St. Andrew's Church, Bloomfield

                                            Registration Required

                                            5th Annual Intergrated Pest Managment Seminar for the Home Gardener

                                            Join Us for the 5th Annual UConn IPM Seminar for the Home Gardener!

                                            Thursday, August 20th, 2026
                                            10:30 AM - 2:00 PM

                                            UConn Research Farm
                                            59 Agronomy Road, Storrs, CT 06268
                                            *Free Parking*

                                            $5.00 Per Person

                                            Learn basic principles of Integrated Pest Management and techniques to implement in your gardens with a day designed for the home gardener.  Speakers from the UConn IPM team will present on various topics to help you improve the plant and soil health of your gardens, lawns, and landscapes.

                                             Information & Registration

                                            Promotional flyer for the 5th Annual UConn Integrated Pest Management Seminar. The flyer advertises a free gardening and pest management event on Thursday, August 20, from 10:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. at the UConn Plant Science Research and Education Farm in Storrs, Connecticut, featuring talks by UConn IPM faculty and staff, light refreshments, and registration information at s.uconn.edu/ipm26.

                                            August Gardening Tips

                                                  • August is the month to order peony roots for September planting. Peonies should be in the ground about a month before the average first frost date.
                                                  • Continue to deadhead annuals and perennials to encourage continuous bloom.
                                                  • Water plants deeply once or twice a week depending on the heat and humidity.
                                                  • The best time to gather herbs and flowers for drying and preserving is during the midmorning hours, just after the dew has dried but before the sun causes them to wilt. Tie herbs in clusters with the stems attached and hang upside down to dry or dry in the microwave.
                                                  • Renovate strawberry beds by mowing to a height of 1 ½ inches, thinning plants and side-dressing with a balanced fertilizer
                                                  • Stop pruning evergreen trees and shrubs to avoid promoting new growth that may not harden off before first frost.
                                                  • Fruiting plants such as winterberry, holly, and firethorn need regular watering during dry spells to ensure that berries mature and don't drop off
                                                  • Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.
                                                  • Reseeding the lawn in late August gives the new grass two growing periods (fall and spring) before the heat of summer. Be sure to keep the seed moist until germination.
                                                  • Control mosquitoes by eliminating all sources of stagnant water. Clean bird baths and pet’s outdoor dishes often.
                                                  • Leaky garden hoses and fittings can waste water. Check hoses while they are under full pressure and make repairs. 


                                                  This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                                  Pamm Cooper, Paulette Goyes, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Natasha Raymond, Heather Zidack