Author: Zidack, Heather

End of Season Harvesting, Bringing Houseplants Inside and Other October News

Posted on October 5, 2026October 5, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

End of Season Harvesting

While some gardeners are able to keep their vegetable gardens going into November and December, many of us start to wrap up in October. Here are some final tips for getting the most out of your autumn harvests!
Harvest before a hard frost or before the temperatures drop below 28°F
Clean your garden as you go. If you've harvested your last tomato, pull the plant. Not only does this help prevent a big "final project" once the garden is empty, but good cleanup is also one of the easiest ways to reduce pests and diseases in next year's garden.
Keep safety in mind! Fall crops yield large fruit like pumpkins and winter squash. Practice proper lifting techniques and don't push yourself to carry more than you can handle.
Find a way to cover your soil. While it may be too late to plant cover crops, gardeners can use natural mulches like shredded leaves, or straw to cover the soil and prevent erosion during winter months.

Warm Season Vegetables

As temperatures cool, warm-season vegetables will slow their growth and production and are often the first crops affected by frost. Harvest what you can before cold weather arrives. Tomatoes and peppers can be harvested green and ripened or used in a variety of recipes.

Herbs & Leafy Greens

As temperatures cool, some leafy greens really come into their own. While lettuce and other tender greens may begin to decline, crops like kale, Swiss chard, and escarole often continue to produce well into fall. Harvest outer leaves as needed and allow plants to keep growing.

Harvest tender herbs and frost-sensitive greens before a hard frost. Many herbs can be dried, frozen, or dehydrated for long-term storage.

Pumpkins growing in a garden patch. — Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Pumpkins & Winter Squash

Knowing when to harvest pumpkins and other winter squash is important because picking them too early can reduce their storage life.

Harvest pumpkins when they have reached their full mature color and the rind is hard enough to resist puncturing with a fingernail. The stem should be dry and brown, and the vines and leaves will usually have begun to die back.

Root Vegetables

Cool weather often improves the flavor of many root crops. Carrots, beets, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, and radishes can continue to be harvested throughout the fall, and some will tolerate light frosts. In fact, cool temperatures can enhance sweetness in crops such as carrots and parsnips.

Harvest root vegetables before the ground freezes solid. Mulching around plants can help extend the harvest season and make digging easier later into the fall.

Extend the Season

If you're one of those gardeners interested in extending your garden season as long as possible, these links might be for you!

Season Extenders and Growing Fall Vegetables

As leaves and temperatures both begin to drop, that’s our cue to bring houseplants inside for the season. Specifically, plants should be brought in when nighttime temperatures fall below 50°F. Make sure to inspect all parts of the plant for insects and any disease symptoms. Choose a spot indoors for your plant away from any excessive heat sources such as vents.

Light, water, and fertilization requirements differ for each variety of houseplant. Get to know your plant by doing some research to find out what conditions it prefers. This can also be found on the plant’s tag or label if it is still attached. If you find yourself unsure of how to proceed with caring for your houseplants this season, please contact us.

Caring for Houseplants

This past August, the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (CAES) confirmed the state’s first case of laurel wilt (Harringtonia lauricola). Laurel wilt is a severe fungal disease that attacks the vascular system of its host. Plants within the Lauraceae family are susceptible to infection, including sassafras, spicebush, redbay, and avocado. Despite what the disease’s name implies, mountain laurel is not a host of laurel wilt.

Laurel wilt is vectored by the redbay ambrosia beetle (Xyleborus glabratus). These insects are extremely small (~2 mm long) and inoculate host plants by tunnelling through their stems and woody tissue. Initial symptoms of laurel wilt include leaf discoloration, wilting, and branch dieback. As the disease progresses, dark vascular streaks become visible on the sapwood underneath external bark layers.

As we head deeper into fall and winter, scouting for symptoms will become more difficult. Continue to monitor any potential host plants during the spring for signs of disease. Currently, molecular testing to confirm the presence of laurel wilt is only available at the CAES.

CAES Official Press Release on Laurel Wilt (9/10/26)

Laurel Wilt Fact Sheet

Find it? Report it!

Interesting Insects: Autumn Meadowhawk Dragonfly

Autumn meadowhawk dragonfly resting on a finger, with sunlight shining through its transparent wings. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

The last dragonfly on the scene in fall is the native Autumn Meadowhawk Sympetrum vicinum. They are one of the last dragonflies to emerge as adults from late July- September.

They are not fussy about habitat as long as there is some water nearby, especially with woodlands in the area. In the cool fall weather you can find them in sunny spots basking on rocks and small branches.

As long as temperatures are above 50 degrees F. they can fly, often well into November.

Learn More About the Autumn Meadowhawk Dragonfly

Yellow witch hazel flowers blooming on bare branches in a woodland setting. — Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

American witch hazel is a shrub native to Connecticut and most of the Eastern United States. This shrub blooms in October and November, making it one of the last plants to bloom for the season. Witch hazel can be grown as an understory shrub or as part of a woodland border in full sun to part shade.

Learn More About American Witch Hazel

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.

The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

A Frightful Feast for Soil Microbes

This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on what fall plant waste can do for your compost pile. While October might be spooky, there is nothing scary about composting when it’s done correctly. Fall provides an abundance of plant material, such as fallen leaves and leftover debris from flower beds and vegetable gardens. These organic materials can contribute to a nutrient-rich feast for the microbes hard at work in your compost pile.

Fallen leaves are an excellent carbon source for compost, with a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of about 50:1, while fresh plant material has a ratio of about 20:1 and provides more nitrogen. Because of this, it is important to add roughly twice as much fresh plant material as leaves to your compost pile.

Getting the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio balance right is important for healthy decomposition. Too much carbon can limit the nitrogen available to soil microorganisms, causing the pile to stay cool and slowing decomposition. On the other hand, excess nitrogen can result in the loss of ammonia gas and an unpleasant smelling pile.

As you’re cleaning up your garden this fall, think about adding these plant materials to your compost pile. With the right balance, they can become a valuable resource for building healthy soil.

By Nora Doonan – Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA

Composting Leaves

Compost Chemistry

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

45 Things to Do in Connecticut this October

It's Fair Season in Connecticut!

The Sky's the Limit Walking Challenge is still in progress!

CT Fall Foliage Viewing Guide

Go on an educational hike at the Bartlett Arboretum & Gardens

Celebrate Halloween with Walktober at the Hillside Environmental Education Park

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

Mushrooms Just for Fun with Pamm Cooper
Thursday, October 22 - 7:00 PM
Mansfield Public Library
54 Warrenville Road, Mansfield, CT

Ask Us Anything: Fall Cleanup Webinar

Tuesday, October 20th
6:00-7:00 PM
Virtual through Microsoft Teams

Join UConn’s Plant and Soil Health Center for a relaxed, interactive virtual “Ask Us Anything” session focused on helping the home garden transition successfully into fall and winter. This event is for home gardeners or green industry professionals. Whether you are wrapping up your first growing season or maintaining an established landscape, our experts will share practical, research-based guidance to help you decide which fall tasks matter most for your yard. We will bring an ecologically minded and Integrated Pest Management approach to fall yard and garden maintenance. Bring your questions about:

Leaf management
Perennial plant maintenance
Disease mitigation
Soil and compost management
Lawn care

The panelists–a landscape designer, soil scientist, plant pathologist, and horticulture educator are ready to discuss the challenges and opportunities you're thinking about as the growing season winds down.

There will be no presentations, this is a participant driven conversation! Our moderator will help get the discussion started, and participant questions are the priority.

Panelists

Avishesh Neupane, UConn, Assistant Extension Professor
Nick Goltz, UConn, Assistant Extension Professor
Lauren Kurtz, UConn, Research Associate
Scot Reil, Winterberry Gardens, Designer

Moderator: Heather Zidack, UConn

Register at: https://s.uconn.edu/hgeo-webinars

George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

October 17th, 2026
11:00AM - 3:00PM
27A Manter Rd, Storrs CT

Join us for a free, family-friendly open house at UConn’s newest center! Learn more about our services and expertise in home gardening, plant diagnostics, soil and nutrient health, and turfgrass.

- Tours of the new George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center

- Hands-on plant and soil health demonstrations

- Lawn and garden questions answered

- Free soil pH testing

- Free plant diagnostic/nutrient analysis coupons (limited qty)

- UConn Hort-club Plant sale

- UConn Dairy Bar will be open

- Wagon rides, games, prizes, and more!

Learn More

UConn Master Composter Program

What is the Master Composter Program?
Between 10 and 25% of a typical household’s waste can be recycled right in our own backyards. This significantly reduces the amount of waste that is incinerated or trucked to state and municipal landfills. The UConn Master Composter Program educates and trains state residents about the composting process and prepares participants to pass that knowledge on to others through outreach.

Program Details
Format: Hybrid, with two in-person Saturday sessions and two online evening sessions

Program fee: $100 per student

Class size: Limited to 25 participants

Certification: Participants must attend all class sessions and complete outreach projects totaling about 20 volunteer hours to receive a UConn Master Composter Certificate & Badge.

Suggested topics: Composting basics; compost chemistry, contaminants, and testing; compost recipes and calculators; community composting; earthworms; vermicomposting; and public education approaches.

For more information including registration and program updates, email soiltest@uconn.edu.

2026 CIPWG Symposium

The Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group's 2026 symposium From Awareness to Action - Strengthening Our Response to Invasive Plants will be in person at UConn Student Union, Storrs, CT, open to all; Wednesday, October 28, 2026.

Sessions include a variety of techniques for management of terrestrial and aquatic invasives, as well as restoration with native alternatives.

The symposium will be recorded and made available after the event. Attendees can choose to attend in person or purchase the recording. CEUs for organizations and Pesticide Recertification Credits are available.

$90 General Registration (in person attendance). $80 Recording Only; Student Registration Available.

Learn more and register at: cipwg.uconn.edu/2026-symposium/

Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026

Registration is now open for the Fall 2026 Online Ornamental & Turf Short Course! The course runs October 7–December 16, 2026, with weekly live online sessions held on Wednesdays from 5:30–7:30 p.m.

Registration Cost: $400 (includes the Pesticide Applicator Core Manual, Ornamental & Turf Category Manual, and printed course materials).
For information on student registration or if you are retaking the course, please contact the instructor, Srikanth Kodati (contact information can be found at the end of this email).

This short course provides an in-depth review of the material needed to prepare for the Connecticut Supervisory Pesticide Applicator Certification Exam (Category 3A: Ornamental & Turf/Golf Course Superintendents). Students who complete all modules, quizzes, and resource materials will be well prepared for both the written and oral state exams.

To register for the course:
s.uconn.edu/turfcourse

For more information: https://ipm.cahnr.uconn.edu/pesticide-course/

Please reach out to Srikanth (course instructor) at srikanth.kodati@uconn.edu or call 860-870-6935 if you have any questions.

October Gardening Tips

Remove plant debris from the flower beds. Bag any diseased plant parts and put them in the trash or take them to a landfill but do not compost.

Keep collecting matured seeds. Dry them out and place them in labeled brown coin envelopes within an airtight container, and store in a cool place.

Remove plant debris from the flower beds. Bag any diseased plant parts and put them in the trash or take them to a landfill but do not compost.

Pot up hyacinths, tulips, and other pre-cooled bulbs and store in a cool, dark place until ready to force.

Sketch out where you planted various vegetables in your garden back in the spring. This will come in handy next spring so when you plant, you can rotate your crops and help prevent disease.

Plant garlic from October 1st to November 15th. Place each clove pointed-side up at a depth of 2-4” about 6” apart.

Prune fall-bearing raspberries after harvest.

Cold-hardy fruit trees such as Honeycrisp and Cortland apples, Reliance peach, Superior plum, most pawpaws and American persimmon can still be planted into October. Continue to water until the ground freezes hard.

If root maggots have been an issue with brassicas and root vegetables till the soil over to expose the pupae to winter cold.

Cut down stems and foliage of herbaceous perennials after two or three hard frosts or when leaves begin to brown.

Limit herbaceous plant material located a few feet away from the house to eliminate hiding places for insects and mice, which could wind up indoors as temperatures plummet.

More October Gardening Tips

Your Raised Beds Worked Hard All Season—Garden Pros Share 6 Ways to Help Them Recover Before Winter

Posted on September 25, 2026September 25, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Your Raised Beds Worked Hard All Season—Garden Pros Share 6 Ways to Help Them Recover Before Winter

The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other gardening professionals recommend their top tips to help your garden beds prepare for winter.

Should You Lime This Fall?

Posted on September 21, 2026September 25, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Fall brings familiar lawn and garden jobs like reseeding thin turf, planting bulbs, cleaning up beds, and preparing for winter. For many people, lime is also a part of the fall lawn-care routine.

But lime is not something every lawn or garden needs every year. When soil is too acidic, limestone can be very helpful. However, when the soil pH is already suitable, adding more lime provides no additional benefit and can eventually push the pH too high. Whether you should lime this fall depends less on the season than on whether your soil actually needs it.

What lime actually does

Limestone is used primarily to raise soil pH. Soil pH describes how acidic or alkaline the soil is, with pH 7 considered neutral. Values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are alkaline. Soil pH affects nutrient availability, root growth, and the activity of many soil organisms.

Many Connecticut soils are naturally acidic. Rainfall gradually leaches calcium and magnesium from soil, making it acidic. Some fertilizer practices can also increase soil acidity over time. Limestone neutralizes some of that acidity while supplying calcium and, depending on the type of limestone, magnesium.

Most lawn grasses and common vegetables perform best in slightly acidic soil, typically around pH 6 to the mid-6s. However, there is no single ideal pH for every plant. Blueberries, rhododendrons, azaleas, and several other plants prefer more acidic conditions. Applying lime simply because the rest of the yard receives it can make the soil less suitable for these plants.

That is why the target pH should be based on what you are growing.

Moss does not mean “add lime”

One of the most persistent lawn-care myths is that moss automatically means the soil is too acidic. Moss can grow well in acidic soil, but it also thrives in shade, wet or poorly drained soil, compacted areas, and thin turf where grass struggles to compete. A shaded, damp lawn may have moss even when its soil pH is perfectly acceptable.

Adding lime without checking the soil may therefore do nothing to solve the real problem. If the lawn is heavily shaded, compacted, or poorly drained, those conditions still need to be addressed.

The same principle applies when grass looks weak or vegetables struggle. Poor plant growth does not by itself indicate a need for lime. Problems with drainage, compaction, nutrients, watering, roots, insects, or disease can produce similar symptoms.

How much lime?

Knowing the soil pH is important, but pH alone does not always tell you how much limestone to apply. Two soils with the same pH may require different amounts of lime to reach the same target. Soil texture, organic matter, and the soil’s ability to resist changes in pH all influence the lime requirement. Many laboratories use a buffer test to estimate this resistance and then calculate a lime rate based on the target pH for the plants being grown. This is why a laboratory soil test that provides a lime recommendation is more useful than simply checking pH with an inexpensive home meter.

Applying less than the recommended amount may not raise the soil pH enough to reach the desired range, while over-liming can push soil pH too high and reduce the availability of nutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc.

Limestone works gradually, and how quickly it changes soil pH depends partly on particle size, soil conditions, and how the material is applied. It may take six months to a year, or longer, to reach its full effect

Calcitic or dolomitic?

Garden centers commonly sell both calcitic and dolomitic limestone. These terms describe the limestone’s composition. Calcitic limestone primarily supplies calcium, while dolomitic limestone supplies both calcium and magnesium. If a soil test shows low magnesium, dolomitic limestone can correct soil acidity while also supplying magnesium. If magnesium is already high, calcitic limestone may be the better choice.

Limestone can also come in different physical forms. Both calcitic and dolomitic limestone may be sold as ground or pelletized products. Pelletized lime is easier and less dusty to spread because finely ground limestone is formed into pellets. Once wet, the pellets break apart, releasing fine particles that react with the soil.

Is fall the best time?

Fall is a good time to apply limestone, especially to lawns, because soil moisture is usually adequate and the material has time to begin reacting before the next growing season. However, lime can also be applied at other times of year when conditions are suitable.

For a new lawn or vegetable garden, lime can be mixed into the soil before planting if a soil test recommends it. On an established lawn, it is usually applied to the surface and allowed to react gradually.

The key is to base liming on a soil test, not the calendar. Test the soil, consider what you plan to grow, and, if lime is recommended, apply the appropriate type and amount.

Feeling blue? How Blue Pigments Create Vibrant Hues in Plants

Posted on September 12, 2026September 15, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Clusters of vibrant blue hydrangea flowers densely packed among lush green leaves, filling the frame with layered blooms and foliage. — Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is one of the few flowers that can have a natural blue hue. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

Blue is a color seldom seen in nature. Although the sky and bodies of water appear blue, very few animals and plants also exhibit this striking color. Anthocyanins, a type of pigment, are responsible for creating the red, purple, and blue hues found in plants. Anthocyanins are sensitive to environmental effects, such as acidity and the presence of metal ions. A primary example of this phenomenon is seen in the primary pigment Delphinidin, a type of anthocyanin. Delphinidin changes color in the presence of aluminum ions, which become more soluble/available in acidic environments. Bigleaf hydrangeas contain this pigment, infamously lining the neighborhoods of Connecticut in a range of pastel blues to deep fuchsia hues dependent on soil pH levels.

Other plants, such as the blue oil fern, can appear iridescent blue due to structural color. Since they are accustomed to the dim understory of the rainforest, these plants must take advantage of as much light as they can get. Many plants reflect green light the most, creating their characteristic green hue. Blue oil ferns have specialized chloroplasts on the surface of their leaves called iridoplasts, allowing the plant to capture more green light rather than reflect it. These iridoplasts create a shiny blue appearance despite no blue pigments being present. The arrangement of photosynthetic membranes in iridoplasts creates an optical nanostructure known as photonic crystals that slow down and concentrate light, ultimately allowing the plant to use available light more efficiently.

Many companies have taken the rarity of blue plants as a challenge, working to engineer a blue flower themselves. Roses, orchids, and chrysanthemums have been genetically modified in recent years to achieve this goal, but the results thus far have only yielded shades of purple. One project, the Phalaenopsis Blue Gene Orchid engineered in Japan, was recently deregulated in the United States and thus approved for sale (though not yet widely available). A Delphinidin gene was inserted from an Asiatic dayflower into a pink “Wedding Promenade” orchid. A white orchid flower, an apparent blank canvas, could not be used as a starting point because Delphinidin needs co-pigments to bind and stabilize the color—White Phalaenopsis lacks these important support molecules. The Blue Gene Orchid flowers in a deep purple-indigo, likely due to its intracellular pH and naturally occurring co-pigments that bind and alter coloration.

The easiest method, however, to acquire blue flowers may be available in your kitchen: food coloring. If you place cut flowers into a cup of water with blue food coloring (20-30 drops), the water will be sucked up through water transport tubes (xylem), giving your flowers a pleasant blue coloring. While artificial, it allows for unique customization and can be a great experiment to do with kids. White carnations and roses worked best when I attempted this for my second-grade science fair. Grocery stores selling blue flowers often use this trick via stem injection or may also paint blue coloring on the outside of the flower. While a standalone blue pigment doesn’t exist in plants, nature has found a way to create a beautiful rainbow for us to enjoy!

Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall

Posted on September 7, 2026September 11, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall

The Spruce – Heather Zidack joins other gardening professionals to recommend fall blooming annuals for extending your season of color.

Vascular Invaders – Verticillium and Botryosphaeria fungi

Posted on September 7, 2026September 10, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Close-up of a cut tree branch showing exposed wood rings and textured bark, held by a hand in an indoor setting. — Ring-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Verticillium wilt. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Vascular plant diseases present a complex series of challenges, both in diagnosis and management. Pathogens of this nature invade the roots and vascular system of their host, stifling the ability of water and essential nutrients to travel throughout the plant. Without proper vascular function, leaves become yellow and wilted. Abnormal discoloration and the pattern which it forms within stem or branch tissue is often the key indication that a vascular disease may be present.

Two of the most prominent vascular pathogens are fungal species of Verticillium or Botryosphaeria. Both infect a wide array of hosts, overlapping to encompass many ornamental trees, shrubs, and vegetable crops. While there are many similarities between the diseases these pathogens cause, there are also defining characteristics which distinguish one from the other.

Verticillium dahliae and verticillium albo-atrum have the potential to cause verticillium wilt. Hosts span from vegetables like tomatoes and potatoes to trees like maple and ash. The fungal structures of either species inhabit soil where infected plant debris has decomposed. There, they can survive for 10-15 years. During the pathogen’s dormant phase, survival structures called microsclerotia germinate. Hyphae (filamentous fungal growth structures) are emitted from these structures and can extend to potential hosts within limited distances. Verticillium inoculates hosts by entering root tips or other areas of root formation, breaking through exterior layers to reach the vascular tissue inside. Conidia (spores) are formed in this location, dispersing to other potential hosts, while Verticillium continues to spread throughout the plant.

Although Verticillium wilt symptoms differ among hosts, abnormalities like leaf yellowing (chlorosis) or browning, wilting, and branch dieback raise suspicion of infection across the board. Symptoms may be isolated to one side of the plant or individual branches. Branch or stem discoloration is another key indicator of infection, accompanied by a streaking and a characteristic ring-shaped brown pattern on the interior of woody tissue. Damage is often concentrated in the lower areas of the plant, as Verticillium invades hosts from their base, working upwards.

The persistence and longevity of Verticillium structures in soil makes crop rotation and the destruction of diseased tissue crucial to disease management. While it’s usually best to remove the diseased plant entirely, woody plants with minor infections can survive for several more years, provided affected branches are pruned away and tools used for pruning are disinfected after use. Rubbing alcohol is a good choice, but there are several other disinfectants on the market labeled for use with tools. Do not compost or use diseased tissue for wood chips, as remaining fungal structures will survive for several years and may infect new host plants.

Close-up cross-section of a woody stem showing internal tissue discoloration and visible growth rings against a light background. — Wedge-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Botryosphaeria infection. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Botryosphaeria canker and dieback are attributed to several causal agents in the Botryosphaeriaceae family. Botryosphaeria is an opportunistic pathogen, choosing already stressed plants to infect and taking advantage of their weakened defense systems. Stress can stem from many sources—frequently environmental challenges, insect infestations, or prior instances of disease. While this group of pathogens has an extensive range of hosts, it is often observed on woody ornamentals—viburnum or rhododendron, for example—and trees like dogwood or maple. Fungal structures overwinter on previously infected tissue, or as endophytes which silently colonize plants without causing symptoms until they become weakened. Botryosphaeria uses many routes of entry when invading its hosts, including open wounds, cracks, or lenticels—porous openings on branch and stem tissue used for gas exchange.

As a vascular pathogen, wilting and dieback are characteristic symptoms of disease, accompanied by necrotic patches on bark and branches. Branches become girdled, and sunken cankers are evident. Depending on the host, sap may ooze from these areas, and black fungal sporulation (pycnidia) may be visible. Unlike verticillium wilt, interior vascular discoloration due to Botryosphaeria infection appears in wedges, resembling a slice of pie.

To manage Botryosphaeria canker and dieback, it is important to minimize sources of stress which can leave plants susceptible to infection. Appropriate pruning and sanitation practices, routine fertilization in accordance with the plant’s needs, and protection from environmental stressors (drought, heat, or cold) are all vital to maintaining vigor. Take care to prevent mechanical injury and wounds, minimizing the potential modes of entry for the pathogen.

As is the case with all plant diseases, laboratory analysis is required for an accurate diagnosis. If you suspect your plant has been infected by a vascular disease, submit branch tissue to the UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory for evaluation. Remember to collect tissue that is just beginning to appear symptomatic, as the lab is unable to diagnose plants that are already dead.

Planting Peonies, Spotted Lanternflies, Pokeweed, and Other September News

Posted on September 3, 2026September 9, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Peonies

This month is the perfect time to plant, divide, or transplant peonies, allowing tubers to establish themselves before winter arrives and the ground freezes. Six weeks of temperatures below 40°F are required for proper flowering in the spring. Choose a site with full sun and well-drained soil to avoid root rot issues. Dig a hole large enough to fit the tuber and its root system, working a form of organic matter, such as compost, into the soil. Nestle the tuber inside—about 1-2 inches from the soil surface. Planting too deeply will prevent proper flowering in the spring. Water the new planting well, adding mulch if needed to maintain moisture.

If transplanting, cut peony stems close to ground level. Dig around and under the plant to gather up the root system. Similar to when planting new tubers, transplanted peonies should not be buried deeper than 2 inches below the soil surface.

If dividing a previous planting, carefully dig up the peony and its root system. With a properly sanitized tool, carefully cut the root tubers into small sections with 3-5 buds each and plant according to the guidelines above.

About Peonies

Peony Care

Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Spotted Lantenrfly (SLF) is an invasive insect introduced from Asia. It arrived in Connecticut in 2020 and has since spread throughout the state. The preferred host plant is Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but it will feed on many other genera of plants. SLF poses a threat to Connecticut agriculture because of its feeding on some fruit crops. At this point in the season, destroying eggs by scraping or crushing them will be most effective at reducing next year's population. Nymphs and adults can be treated with contact insecticides including insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or other insecticides according to label instructions. Circle traps can be used to capture nymphs next year.

About Spotted Lanternfly

About Tree-of-Heaven

How to Build a Spotted Lanternfly Circle Trap

What to Know about Spotted Lanternfly in Connecticut

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Tree of Heaven (TOH) is an invasive tree in CT. It is also the preferred host plant for the invasive spotted lanternfly (SLF). This tree forms dense colonies through its suckering root system. Female trees can produce hundreds of thousands of seeds annually. Removing this tree is recommended, but careful consideration should be taken because when injured or cut down, the tree can produce many stump sprouts or root suckers. Systemic herbicides applications are recommended from mid-summer through early fall.

Pokeweed is a native perennial that is having a banner year in 2026 in Connecticut. With its multiple branching habit and height-up to 10 feet- it can be mistaken for a shrub.

It is generally considered a weed in gardens and residential spaces. However, in the wild, the dark purple fruit are of value to birds and small mammals.

Pokeweed is best controlled is by pulling out young plants before the taproot gets firmly established. Other control methods are highlighted in the article below.

All plant parts are poisonous to humans and pets, and wearing gloves, long sleeves and closed toed shoes is recommended when handling all parts of the plant.

Learn More About Pokeweed

Controlling Pokeweed

Interesting Insects: American Lady Butterflies

Orange and brown butterfly with black and white markings resting on a green leaf. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American lady butterflies, Vanessa virginiensis, are among the several butterfly genera that migrate in both spring and fall, like the monarchs. As they head south in late summer, flowers like goldenrods, Tithonia spp. of Mexican sunflowers, zinnias, asters and lantana are among the plants they use as food sources on their way south.

This is a very fast flyer as it wings its way around the landscape. It is very similar to the painted lady, Vanessa carduii, but it has two large eyespots on the rear wing instead of the four smaller eyespots of the painted lady. Plus, the forewing orange cell of the American lady just below the dark area with the white markings has a white dot in the center.

American Lady vs. Painted Lady Butterflies

Beaked Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta)

Corylus cornuta, is a native, easy to grow multi-stemmed shrub that grows in full sun to part shade. It can form thickets by sending up suckers from rhizomes.

Edible nuts about a half inch in size are enclosed in a beaked husk, and nuts can be harvested in late summer. The fruit is unique when joined together in pairs- the whole fruit resembles Brunhilda 's horned opera hat. Fall leaf color is yellow bronze.

Learn More About Beaked Hazelnut

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Get The Dirt On Your Soil - Soil Test This Fall!

As the summer season comes to a close and fall starts to move in, the perfect time to test your soil rapidly approaches. A fall soil test can help you start preparing for the following spring and summer season, even before winter begins! A soil test allows you to get a glimpse of what is going on in your soil, like the pH, nutrient levels, organic matter, and more! It helps to establish a base line to see if any soil amendments need to be added to improve your soil health. If any are needed, applying slow release nutrients, such as lime, in the fall can be very beneficial as the additions can slowly release into the soil over winter, and have your soil ready for growing in the spring. Fall crops and ground cover can even uptake the nutrients and have an even better spring green up! Don’t guess, soil test this fall!

By Zaira O'Leary, Soil Science Master's Student, UConn PSLA

Fall is the Perfect Time for Soil Sampling

Fall is a Great Time to Lime and Fertilize Lawns

UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

October 17th, 2026
11:00AM - 3:00PM
27A Manter Rd, Storrs CT

Join us for a free, family-friendly open house at UConn’s newest center! Learn more about our services and expertise in home gardening, plant diagnostics, soil and nutrient health, and turfgrass.

- Tours of the new George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center

- Hands-on plant and soil health demonstrations

- Lawn and garden questions answered

- Free soil pH testing

- Free plant diagnostic/nutrient analysis coupons (limited qty)

- UConn Hort-club Plant sale

- UConn Dairy Bar will be open

- Wagon rides, games, prizes, and more!

UConn Master Composter Program

Program Details
Format: Hybrid, with two in-person Saturday sessions and two online evening sessions

Program fee: $100 per student

Class size: Limited to 25 participants

Certification: Participants must attend all class sessions and complete outreach projects totaling about 20 volunteer hours to receive a UConn Master Composter Certificate & Badge.

Suggested topics: Composting basics; compost chemistry, contaminants, and testing; compost recipes and calculators; community composting; earthworms; vermicomposting; and public education approaches.

For more information including registration and program updates, email soiltest@uconn.edu.

2026 CIPWG Symposium

Sessions include a variety of techniques for management of terrestrial and aquatic invasives, as well as restoration with native alternatives.

$90 General Registration (in person attendance). $80 Recording Only; Student Registration Available.

Learn more and register at: cipwg.uconn.edu/2026-symposium/

Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026

To register for the course:
s.uconn.edu/turfcourse

For more information: https://ipm.cahnr.uconn.edu/pesticide-course/

Please reach out to Srikanth (course instructor) at srikanth.kodati@uconn.edu or call 860-870-6935 if you have any questions.

September Gardening Tips

Mid to late September is a great time to add accent plants, like vivid mums and starry asters, that will provide autumn colors in the landscape. Use them along with cool-colored ornamental cabbages and kales to replace bedraggled annuals in containers as well

Lift and store tender bulbs, such as cannas, dahlias and gladiolus, after first frost

Spring and summer blooming perennials like daylilies and bearded irises can still be dug up and divided

Early autumn is a great time to plant perennials

Do not fertilize perennials any more this season. Pushing new growth too close to frost can cause damage to your plants

Late season cabbage and beets can stay in the garden until a light frost for best flavor. Some root crops, including certain varieties of beets, carrots and parsnips, may be left in the ground for storage. Wait until temperatures drop and growth stops and cover with a thick layer of straw or leaves. Harvest as needed during the winter. This may not be an option in areas with heavy vole populations.

Continue to water any new shrub or tree plantings until the first hard frost.

Continue to turn and moisten compost piles to speed decomposition.

Apply fall fertilizer to lawns between Sept. 15th and Oct. 15th.

As tomatoes end their production, cut down plants, pick up any debris and put dead/diseased plant parts in the trash or take to a landfill. Many diseases will over-winter on old infected leaves and stems so these are best removed from the property.

Harvest onions once tops have fallen over and necks have started to dry down and shrink just above the bulb.

More September Gardening Tips

Tips for Harvesting Herbs

Posted on August 30, 2026September 10, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Fresh sage leaves arranged on a textured white cloth surface. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

With the Dog Days of summer behind us and Labor Day on the horizon, there’s still plenty of time to both enjoy your garden’s beauty and bounty as well as finish harvesting aromatic herbs for culinary use. Even a small pot or planting of basil, thyme, rosemary and the like can supply a fair amount of flavor to your favorite dishes.

Methods of harvesting vary from fresh use to frozen to dried depending on your preferences. Regardless of how you intend to prepare them, follow these few suggestions for harvesting. Start with clean hands, clean scissors or clippers and a clean container to place your herbs in. Make sure your scissors or clippers are sharp to make clean cuts.

Most herbs can be harvested throughout the summer. Annual herbs can be picked until they start looking ragged or get hit by the frost. Typically, late August through early September is the last time to clip perennial herbs as the tender new growth that is encouraged by harvesting could be damaged by the frost if plants are harvested too late in the season.

Also, as a general rule of thumb, herbs grown for their aromatic leaves are most pungent when harvested before flowering. This may leave some pollinator friendly gardeners with a dilemma as the flowers of many herb plants, like oregano and thyme, are especially attractive to pollinating bees and others. One way to deal with this if plants are of good size is to harvest half to two-thirds of the plants earlier in the season before they flower and later, cut the spent flowering stems back. Usually that gives you a second harvest about now.

Always harvest herbs in the morning, shortly after the dew dries but before the heat of day sets in. The essential oils are highest before the heat causes them to evaporate. When harvesting herbs for their flowers, like chamomile, borage and calendula, pick the blossoms just before fully opened. Seed heads of dill, fennel or coriander can be cut right into paper bags so as not to lose any seeds. Leave a few heads if you want these plants to self-seed. I had not had to purchase dill seeds for over 20 years in my old garden as they just reseeded themselves.

How much of a herb plant’s foliage can you remove? Anywhere from 30 to 70 percent depending on the plant. Quick growing plants such as oregano, mints, parsley and basil can generally have more of their foliage removed than slower growing potted rosemary and, in my yard, tarragon. Collect handfuls of leafy stems and bring inside to inspect before processing.

Plants can be rinsed if they have dust or dirt on them but if harvested after a rain or from a mulched bed, often they are clean enough not to need washing. Pick through them for any insects, damaged leaves or debris. If plants need to be rinsed, shake them and then spread them out on cloth or paper towels to dry. Generally, herbs that are not used fresh are either frozen or more typically dried.

Freezing herbs is quite easy. Simply chop them in small enough pieces to add to your water filled ice cube tray and freeze. Once frozen, the cubes can be popped out and stored in freezer bags or containers. Use for flavoring in soups, stews and other culinary dishes.

Herbs can be dried in little bundles, on screens, in a microwave, oven or dehydrator depending on your preferences. If you have a dry, airy, dimly lit area, you might want to make small bundles of herbs to hang upside down to dry. Seed heads, such as dill, can be bundled together and placed upside down in a paper bag. Punch a few holes in the bag, gather it at the top and hang to dry. Seeds will fall into the bottom of the bag. Leafy herbs could be spread out and placed on drying screens. Air drying works best when we have periods of low humidity.

Since this is often not the case in August, many opt to dry herbs in a microwave or dehydrator. Old gas stoves with an always on pilot light in the oven make ideal drying places. Except for the dill seeds which I bag, the microwave works best for me. Not only is it a quick way to dry herbs but they keep their nice green color. The key to successful microwave drying is to just dry small batches of herbs at one time and experiment with the timing. Herbs should be placed on a plate between 2 paper towels and then start your microwave from 30 to 60 seconds and see how that works. In between bursts, the herbs can be stirred and the bottom paper towel replaced if it gets too wet. Continue in short bursts until you come up with a good routine for your microwave. I have not used a dehydrator so if using, follow the directions that come with the unit.

Dried herbs are flavorful for at least one year. After drying, crumble them slightly and store in well-sealed glass or plastic jars. I repurpose ones that originally held herbs and spices. Take some time now to preserve some of summer’s best flavors. Come cooler days, you’ll be glad you did.

August: The Month That Shapes Next Year’s Garden

Posted on August 23, 2026August 25, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Close-up of a purple artichoke flower in bloom, surrounded by thick green bracts and unopened buds. Bright yellow-orange flowers are softly blurred in the background, creating a colorful garden scene. — Photo by H. Zidack

It’s been a strange year. While many gardeners typically start to feel as if their season is starting to wind down in August, some gardens this year seem to finally be hitting their stride. Regardless, with fall just ahead of us, this month provides a fantastic opportunity to reflect, and plan for your next growing season all while the weather is still on your side!

While your garden is still in flower and plants are still well established, it is a great time of year to document this growing season for yourself. Gardeners have used systems of colored golf tees, rocks, or other means to mark out where perennials are in the garden so that they do not disturb them during spring planting or cleanup. Others will sketch out their gardens on graph paper. For perennials, this is a great way to remember what species are planted, and when they flower so that you can shop for additions. This method is particularly useful for vegetable garden beds, which many try to rotate each season. By sketching out what is currently planted, you will be able to identify new locations for next season’s rotation.

It’s always easier to reflect on something while it’s in front of you. Keep a journal and note what went well this season and what didn’t while it is fresh in mind. Include pests and diseases so you are aware of what to scout for next season, before it’s an issue. Even though next year’s conditions may be different, this documentation will help you have an idea of timing, locations, or practices that can be improved on in the next growing season.

While it may not quite be time to start shopping for seeds or starts for next season, note the varieties of vegetables that did well in your garden, and ones that you might skip for next year. Taking note of diseases or pests will also help you with your winter seed shopping by helping you identify if resistant varieties are out there to help you combat those issues. Creating this list now will help you when it comes time for those January seed orders!

If you still want to play in the dirt, this is a good time of year to divide your spring and summer blooming perennials. Division not only provides an opportunity for your plants to have a little extra growing room in the garden bed, but some see it as a way of getting free plants from your garden! Enhance other garden spaces with additional plant material where it may fit. If your plants are healthy and free of pests and disease, you can even share divisions with family, friends or neighbors.

Late summer and fall blooming perennials are best divided in the spring so that they are not expending energy on both flowering and establishment at the same time. Always make sure to follow proper watering guidelines to help any transplanted divisions establish in their new spot in the garden. Even though the plants have been in your garden for a long time, once they are moved the clock resets on their “establishment period.” They’ve taken a hit to their root system and may need your support to recover. Ensure plants are receiving one inch of water per week (roughly 0.62 gallons per sq foot), to help them establish a healthy root system. Always feel the soil to determine whether supplemental water is necessary.

Spring bulbs and Peony roots will be planted in the coming months, so prepare by shopping early! Unique varieties will sell out quickly and you will want to make sure you get what you need for planting time.

We’re also approaching a fine time of year to have your soil nutrition tested so that you’re ready to go next spring! Typically, the springtime sees a rush for soil testing and there can be delays, which mean more time waiting before implementing your fertilizer programs. By testing in the fall, you have your recommendations ready to go when the soil warms up next spring!

Don’t underestimate the value of a detailed gardening journal and a few garden markers to help you remember where things are in your garden, how well they did, and what you may need to watch out for next year! Many successful gardeners have a collection of journals or notes that help them build upon what they learn from season to season. August is the perfect time of year to start documenting those observations while they’re fresh in your mind, and there’s still plenty of gardening left in the year!

Invasive or Aggressive? Why the Difference Matters in Your Garden

Posted on August 16, 2026August 18, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Wide meadow filled with tall yellow wildflowers under a clear blue sky, bordered by trees and distant low hills in the background. — Canada goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) is an aggressive, native plant. Photo by Lauren Kurtz

You’re in the garden, staring at that same patch of weeds spreading year after year into your flower beds. You grumble how invasive they are. Or are they aggressive? Conversationally, both invasive and aggressive paint the same picture but if you read the fine print, they mean different things.

In everyday conversation, the two words can sound interchangeable. In horticulture and ecology, however, they mean different things. That distinction can shape how we manage plants, communicate with other gardeners and landscape professionals, and understand the regulations that apply to certain species. Gardening lingo can be nuanced and details matter.

Let’s begin with the broadest term: weed. A weed is simply a plant growing where it is not wanted. A weed may be otherwise desirable when it’s growing where we want it. Ralph Waldo Emerson famously said a weed is “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.” A weed is more a description of where a plant is growing; it does not give away information about the plant’s provenance or growth habit.

Aggressive describes the growth behavior of a plant. Weeds and plants we grow in our gardens can be aggressive. Native and nonnative plants can be aggressive too. Aggressive plants can outcompete other plants for resources and outgrow the space allotted to them. Not all aggressive plants are invasive, but in some cases an aggressive, non-native plant can be categorized as invasive.

Invasive plants are nonnative and have demonstrated the ability to spread aggressively, establish outside of cultivation into natural areas, and outcompete native plants. People have introduced plants beyond their native ranges for centuries both intentionally and unintentionally. Most introduced, nonnative plants do not become invasive, but those that do can cause significant, costly problems for landowners, communities, and land managers. Invasive plants often have legal or regulatory implications.

The way invasive plants are regulated varies state to state. In Connecticut, a plant is considered invasive if it meets a set of ecological criteria outlined in Connecticut General Statutes 22a-381a. Connecticut’s Invasive Plants Council uses these criteria to recommend which plants belong on the state’s invasive plant list. The list is periodically updated by the State legislature as additional plants meeting the invasive plant criteria are identified. There are more than 100 plants on Connecticut’s invasive plant list.

What does it mean for a plant to be native or nonnative? Native plants are species that have occurred in a region without the benefit of human introduction. Depending on the context, native can mean native to the United States, to New England, to Connecticut, or to a smaller locale. There are different opinions about what makes a plant native and at what geographic scale. The most important consideration is that native plants coevolved alongside other species in their native range and are part of the greater ecological community. Native plants can be considered aggressive, but they are not considered invasive.

In summary, what defines a weed is a matter of opinion. Aggressive plants have robust growth, can be native or nonnative, and are sometimes further classified as invasive. All invasive plants are nonnative and are usually aggressive.

Phone:	(877) 486-6271
E-mail:	ladybug@uconn.edu
Address:	27A Manter Road, Unit 4115 Storrs, CT, 06269
More:	Hours: Monday to Friday, 8:30 am to 4:00 pm

Listen! The wind is rising, and the air is wild with leaves, We have had our summer evenings, now for October eves!

End of Season Harvesting

Warm Season Vegetables

Herbs & Leafy Greens

Pumpkins & Winter Squash

Root Vegetables

Extend the Season

Bringing Houseplants Inside for the Season

Laurel Wilt in CT? What is it and what should you do?

Interesting Insects: Autumn Meadowhawk Dragonfly

Native Plant Highlight: American Witch Hazel

American Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

Seeking Samples with Blueberry Rust

Word from the WiSE

Weather Outlook

Knowledge to Grow On

Read our Latest Publications Written Weekly

Find Us in the Media

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

Events & Learning Opportunities from UConn Extension

Ask Us Anything: Fall Cleanup Webinar

George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

UConn Master Composter Program

2026 CIPWG Symposium

Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026

October Gardening Tips

What lime actually does

Moss does not mean “add lime”

How much lime?

Calcitic or dolomitic?

Is fall the best time?

O sweet September rain! I hear it fall upon the garden beds, Freshening the blossoms which begin to wane...

Peonies

Spotted Lanternfly & Tree of Heaven

Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Pokeweed - A Native Nusiance

Interesting Insects: American Lady Butterflies

Native Plant Highlight: Beaked Hazelnut

Beaked Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta)

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

Word from the WiSE

Weather Outlook

Knowledge to Grow On

Read our Latest Publications Written Weekly

Find Us in the Media

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

Events & Learning Opportunities from UConn Extension

George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

UConn Master Composter Program

2026 CIPWG Symposium

Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026

September Gardening Tips

Listen! The wind is rising, and the air is wild with leaves,
We have had our summer evenings, now for October eves!

Laurel Wilt in CT?
What is it and what should you do?

O sweet September rain!
I hear it fall upon the garden beds,
Freshening the blossoms which begin to wane...