These warmer days have been calling us into the garden, but it's still a bit too early to be planting many of our spring favorites. Still, local garden centers and our team at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center are ready to help you prepare for the growing season ahead! (Spring 2025)
Author: Zidack, Heather
Have You Tested Your Well Lately?
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
By Alec Janis M.S. – Connecticut Institute of Water Resources
In 1718, in what is now Franklin, Connecticut, a well was dug as an all-purpose public source of water for the community. In about 1755, the people began to complain about the water’s quality, saying it stained clothes and remained tainted until 1794, when an earthquake shook the town. After the earthquake, it was found that the well had been restored to its original quality. Although this is a more extreme example, the quality of your well water can change at any time, which means that just because it was safe to drink when it was installed, that may not be the case today.
The Connecticut Department of Public Health recommends that all residents test their wells every two to five years. If you’re struggling to remember the last time you tested your well, you’re not alone. We estimate that 96% of Connecticut well owners do not follow these guidelines.
So how does your well work? When it rains, some water is absorbed by the plants in the landscape, but they can’t uptake all that water. After water travels past the plant roots, it continues until it reaches an area where all the spaces in the soil have been saturated. This is known as the water table. Think of the soil like a sponge; as you add water, the water fills all the holes and space inside until it’s completely soaked through. If you have a shallow well, your water is being pulled directly from this water table.
If you have a drilled well, your water comes from much further underground. Below the saturated layer of soil, there’s solid stone called bedrock. Throughout the bedrock, there are small cracks, called fractures, where water moves. You can see an example of this when passing a rocky cliff face along the highway that seems to be randomly covered in ice. The ice you see has formed from water that has made its way through soil on top of the ledge, into the fractures in the stone and eventually drips out of small cracks where it freezes in the cold air. A drilled well is a bored hole in the bedrock, intersecting many fractures. Instead of following the original path, water now pours out of the fractures and pools in the newly formed hole.
Now that we know how water travels, let’s consider everything the water is interacting with on its way down. Consider the animal waste on your lawn from a pet or a passing deer, the fertilizers or pesticides you may use on your lawn, or even the de-icing salts you put on walkways during the winter. Precipitation, in the form of rain or snow, pulls everything underground. However, not all of this will end up directly in your well water. The dirt acts as a filter stopping some contaminants while letting others through. Depending on the chemical make-up, certain compounds will remain in the soil while others will break down and continue to travel through.
When this water reaches the bedrock, it will continue to pick up and lose different chemicals. This process will slowly erode these cracks, causing the paths to change over time. As the stone erodes, metals and minerals will be picked up with the traveling water and occasionally end up in your drilled well.
This is why it is important to routinely test your well water quality every few years. As water erodes fractures in the bedrock, new cracks and pathways form, changing the contaminants that are entering your well. We currently don’t have a simple method to track how groundwater is moving, so testing is the best way to understand what’s happening in your well.
To get your well tested visit a local or lab participate in the UConn Extension well testing program. We are hosting a collection event at the UConn Extension - Middlesex County Extension Center (1066 Saybrook Rd, Haddam, CT 06438) on May 3rd from 10:00am – 1:00pm. These tests test for coliform bacteria, lead, arsenic, uranium, nitrates, sodium, chloride, fluoride, pH, hardness, sulfate, turbidity, iron, and manganese. These tests, normally valued at $350, are being offered for a reduced cost of $200.
We will mail a sample kit to participants who have signed up in advance of the collection event. Sample kits will also be available at the collection event on May 3rd as well as at the Old Saybrook Environmental Fair (Old Saybrook Middle School, 60 Sheffield St, Old Saybrook, CT 06475) on April 26th.
Participants can sign up online at https://s.uconn.edu/haddam-well-testing. The deadline to be mailed a sample kit is April 25th.
If participants cannot make the day above, we offer a walk in service year-round where participants can bring their water sample to the UConn main campus Monday through Thursday from 8 am – 5 pm. For more information on how to sign up, visit https://ctiwr.uconn.edu/walk-in/.
We support UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For home gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. For more information about the CT Institute of Water Resources and Well testing services, visit https://ctiwr.uconn.edu/
This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 15 2025 and printed in The Chronicle in the same week
Narcissi and the Reflections of Spring
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
By Abigayle Ward – Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture
According to an ancient Greek myth, all those who had fallen in love with the young man Narcissus were met with contemptuous rejection. On a hunting trip, Narcissus stopped to drink from a pond and became enamored with his own reflection. Cursed to never experience a requited love of his own, he stared at himself until his death, and his place was taken by a flower.
While it remains disputed whether the character was named after the flower or vice versa, the enduring significance of the narcissus as a harbinger of spring is uncontested. With a native range spanning throughout most of Europe, northern Africa, and parts of Asia, legends describing this culturally significant early-season perennial have been told since antiquity. In China, daffodils are carefully grown to bloom for the Lunar New Year, which began this year on January 29th. Their Mandarin name, shuixianhua, literally translates as “immortal water flower”, attesting to their resilience throughout the early season cold.
The Royal Horticultural Society in the United Kingdom describes 13 different types of narcissi based primarily on morphological appearance and when they bloom. Some have long trumpets, while others have multiple flowers to one stem. Others have small trumpets and many petals, called ‘double daffodils’, while others still have few petals dwarfed by large, bowl-shaped trumpets. Daffodils also come in many interesting color combinations – while most of us are familiar with the classic yellow petals and orange trumpets, they also come with white petals, white trumpets, and some even have shades of salmon pink. As one of the earliest-blooming flowers in your garden, they add a lovely splash of color to an otherwise brown landscape. In beds, they go well with red or pink tulips. By themselves, daffodils make good borders, particularly if different color combinations are intermixed to create visual intrigue.
While it is too late now to plant daffodil bulbs with the guarantee of blooms, they can still be safely planted. If you have some bulbs and want to give them a try, be sure to plant them in a sunny spot with well-drained soil at least 6 to 8 inches below the surface. They may sprout, but not form a flower. Do not fear: Daffodils are quite resilient and will likely flower the next spring. If you want to wait, the ideal time to plant daffodils for blooms in the spring is November.
If you find an already-blooming daffodil at your local garden center, it can be planted in the ground any time after the blooms themselves have faded. Both the bulbs and the foliage are frost-hardy well into sub-zero temperatures, making them well-suited for growing in the unpredictable winter weather of Connecticut.
After the flowers have bloomed, you may wish to cut the flower stems and bring them indoors for some bright colors. If you leave the flowers on the plants, be sure to deadhead them as soon as the flowers begin to wilt. If daffodils are allowed to go to seed, the plant will divert precious nutrients and energy away from the bulb. Once the plant has finished flowering, only the foliage remains. While it is tempting to remove the foliage, the leaves are collecting energy and creating food for the bulb via photosynthesis. If the leaves are removed too early, the daffodil may not flower the following spring. Some gardeners like to tie up the leaves in rubber bands or braid them to keep them out of the way, although it is generally best practice to leave them alone until they turn brown by themselves. Damage to the leaves could introduce pathogens or attract pests, which could impact the ability of the plant to flower next year.
With proper care, daffodil bulbs can multiply, ensuring many blooms come back year after year. As we move forward into the season of renewal for ourselves and our gardens, consider planting some daffodils to add a bit of sunshine to your home landscape.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For questions about spring bulbs like daffodils or other gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.
This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 8 2025
Last Frosts, Cool Season Annuals, Black Knot & Other March News
Posted on by Zidack, Heather

"March brings breezes loud and shrill,
Stirs the dancing daffodil..."
— Sara Coleridge, "The Months"
Garden Planning - Last Freeze & Frost Dates are Coming!
Whether you're starting seeds indoors or just itching to know when you can kick your houseplants back outside - the last frost date of the season is a moving target that all gardeners grapple with!
Luckily, there are a few tools that we can use to help us understand, predict, and prepare for the changes in weather that will mean growing season is here to officially start. The last freeze of the season is not the same as the last frost. However, both of these milestones can help us make plans for succuessful gardening.
Many seed packets recommend planting a certain number of "weeks before/after frost."
When it comes to finally moving your plants outside, even the best prediction tools may not beat your "gardeners intuition." This is especially true in cases where you know the microclimate of your property and gardens. Watch the weather carefully and make decisions based on your commitment to protecting your plants in cases of sudden changes.
When planting early, always be prepared to cover plants to protect them from pop up frosts in the late spring until you're confident the threat has passed.
Avoid moving houseplants outside until the night temperature is consistently 50°F.
Learn more and find your last predicted freeze and frost dates using the links below!
Freeze Date Tool - Spring & Fall Frost/Freeze Dates
When to Expect Your Last Spring Freeze
Farmers Almanac: 2025 Frost Dates
Get Ready to Plant Cool Season Annuals!
With spring on the horizon, you can provide your garden with a much-needed burst of color by planting cool season annuals. These flowers are tolerant of temperatures down to 28°F and can be directly sown into the ground near the end of March.
Popular varieties include pansies, calendulas, and larkspur. Proper care is species specific, but in general techniques such as dead-heading and proper watering can prolong the blooming period. Always check the seed packet for proper planting depth and timing of planting.
Scouting for Diseases: Black Knot
Winter can be a good time to scout for diseases and pests, even when everything is dormant. The lack of leaves allows us to see stem and bark tissue and check for the presence of overwintering structures such as egg masses of insects, dormant fungal bodies or galls on branches.
Black Knot is a fantastic example of a disease that is best observed when there are not any leaves on the trees.
If you spot large black swellings on your plum or cherry trees, this can be attributed to the fungal disease Black knot. Caused by the fungus Apiosporina morbosa (aka Dibotryon morbosum), symptoms first appear as green galls on branches, eventually becoming black by the following spring. Branches will be become engulfed by the galls, cutting off resources and causing death of the upper stem. Control methods include manual pruning and removal of galls, as well as chemical control when necessary.
Word from the WiSE
Hold Your Hoses!
This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on soil moisture and soil aggregates.
This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on soil moisture and soil aggregates.
As we warm into spring and the ice begins to thaw, you may be eager to take advantage of some beautiful 50°F days to prepare your garden beds for spring planting. However, working very wet soil can destroy soil aggregates. Soil aggregates allow for good water drainage, give space for roots to grow, and provide homes for microbes to turn organic matter into nutrients your plants need. Soil compaction, caused by destruction of aggregates, can be very difficult to reverse – It may take years to form aggregates in sandy soils, such as those found in Connecticut.
While organic matter can be a great way to improve soil health and encourage aggregate formation, avoid disrupting aggregates by working soil that is too wet. To check if your soil is too wet, form a soil ball in your hand, then give it a squeeze. If the ball falls apart, the soil is ready to work. If it stays together, avoid working the soil until conditions get drier.
By Abigayle Ward - Soil Science PhD Student, Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture
Knowledge to Grow On
Upcoming Events and Things to Do
- Get your seeds and seed starting supplies, locally! While many big box stores can be a great resource for affordable seed and seed starting products, local garden centers throughout the state are starting to provide these products and their expertise as well!
- Maple Weekend - March 15th & 16th, Statewide
- Vernal Pool Hike - March 16th, 2025, Burlington, CT
- Winter Wildlife Eagle Cruises - Wednesdays in March, Essex, CT
- Celebrate St. Patrick's Day! Throughout March, Statewide
- Nutmeg State Orchid Society Show & Sale, March 22 & 23, West Hartford, CT
Educational Opportunities & Workshops
- Attend A Local Garden Club meeting, talk, or workshop
- Check out the UConn Master Gardener Course Catalog - Classes are open to all, cover many varied topics and are offered at various times throughout the spring.
- Black Bears in Connecticut - March 6, 2025, via Zoom
- Gardening in Overtime: Getting the Most out of Your Late Season Display with Dan Benarcik, March 20, 2025 - Zoom
CT Flower & Garden Show 2025
Thank you to all staff, volunteers, and students that made our booth a success again this year at the flower show!
Mark your calendars for next year!
Feb. 19 - Feb. 22, 2026



March Gardening Tips
- Seeds of annuals that require 10-12 weeks of growth before transplanting can be started indoors now.
- Some seeds can be sown onto an inch or so of melting snow on a calm day. These include poppy, calendula, evening primrose and lupine. Be sure the area beneath the snow is bare ground.
- March is a great time to be pruning your fruit trees.
- If house plants or seedlings are growing tall and leggy, they probably need supplemental light. Use fluorescent lights to help compensate for short days.
- If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly.
- Thin bramble plantings (raspberries, blackberries, etc.) to increase air circulation and reduce stem and leaf disease problems.
- Check landscape plants for winter damage and prune if necessary after all freezing temps have passed for the season and new growth begins.
- Move woody plants before they begin new spring growth; transplant as soon as the soil is workable.
- Start cleaning containers and pots so they are ready for planting.
- Clean and sharpen garden tools. Take an inventory of supplies you will need for the upcoming growing season. Paint handles red or orange to make them more visible on the lawn.
- Bring in bird feeders once black bears emerge from hibernation.
This Month’s Newsletter Contributors:
Heather Zidack, Emily Leahy, Abigayle Ward
Yes, You Can Grow Orchids!
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home and Garden Education Center
Some favorite booths at the CT Flower and Garden Show this past weekend were the ones filled with orchids. Orchids are becoming more popular as houseplants and many folks are finding that they can be grown successfully in the home without elaborate care or special equipment. If you’re in a traveling mind, check out the Orchid Exhibit at the New England Botanic Garden in Boylston, MA that runs through March 23, 2025.
Orchids are grouped into two general divisions. Epiphytic orchids naturally grow on trees in the tropics. Trees are used for support. Water and nutrients come from rain, bird droppings and organic debris collecting around the roots. Terrestrial types will grow in a highly organic soil. While epiphytic orchids may tolerate or even enjoy a dry, dormant period, terrestrial species, in general, need to be kept moist throughout the year.
Two styles of growth are exhibited by orchids. Monopodial orchids grow in an upright direction from the central stem on which aerial roots and flowers develop. Sympodial orchids generate new growth from the base of the plant. As the new stems mature and bloom, younger shoots once again are produced and the cycle is continued.
The orchid family is organized into several genera (each called a genus) which may contain from one to many species. Much hybridization has occurred and the names can be baffling to a novice. For instance, hybrids resulting as a cross between Cattleya mossiae and C. warscewiczii are labeled Cattleya x Enid, the ‘x’ indicating the plant is a hybrid.
Some of the easiest orchids for beginners are phalenopsis, paphiopedilum, epidendron, oncidium and cattleya. Not every member of each genera can be successfully grown in the home so be sure to check with your source. Almost all colors are available and blossom size may range from very tiny to several inches in diameter.
The basic requirements for orchids are good ventilation, 40 to 50 percent humidity, light, proper watering and a well-draining potting mix usually composed of fir bark. Often osmunda fiber, tree fern and/or perlite are added to the fir bark.
Specific cultural requirements vary as to the species. Some tolerate higher light levels than others. Many varieties of the orchids listed above prefer 55 to 60 degree F nights and 65 to 68 degree F days although cattlyas, epidendrons and oncidiums like it about 10 degrees warmer. If growing on a windowsill, put the varieties that like it cooler closer to the window. Make sure leaves do not touch the glass.
Ways to increase humidity include grouping plants together, placing on gravel lined trays filled with water, frequent misting or use of a humidifier. Plants should not sit in water and the foliage, if misted, should be dry by evening. Don’t keep plants too close together as good air circulation helps prevent diseases.
Watering is perhaps the trickiest part of growing orchids. There is not accurate rule for when to water because it depends on the size of the container, the type of growing medium, temperature and light conditions. Obviously, plants will have to be watered more often in hot, dry weather and less during cool, damp periods. When watering, soak the potting material thoroughly. Do not water again until the medium feels dry to the touch. If in doubt, do not water.
Since fir bark contains virtually no nutrients, plants have to be fertilized on a regular basis. Some recommend fertilizing at every third watering with a half strength orchid fertilizer. It is best to place plants in the sink and water until it drains from the pot, not putting the plant back in its saucer until it is thoroughly drained. Special orchid pots are available with enlarged drainage holes. Fertilizers should just be applied when plants are actively growing.
Orchids are a plant you have to experiment with but once you’ve experienced success, you will find that as a hobby, they can be quite contagious. Those seeking more orchid information might want to check out the Connecticut Orchid Society (www.ctorchids.org) or the American Orchid Society (www.aos.org).
If you have questions on growing orchids or any home or garden topic, contact the UConn Home and Garden Education Center, toll-free, at 877.486.6271 or visit us at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or call your local Cooperative Extension Center.
This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 1, 2025
The Challenges of Boxwood: Pests, Diseases, and Alternatives
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
Boxwood, a classic choice for formal gardens and hedges, has faced increasing threats in recent years. As gardeners grapple with these challenges, it is crucial to understand the issues at hand and explore alternative plants for our landscapes.
Boxwood Blight is an aggressive fungal disease that affects various Boxwood species and causes rapid defoliation and potential plant death. First identified in the United Kingdom in the mid-1990s, this disease has since spread across North America. Early symptoms include stem cankers, sunken lesions, and eventual dieback. To mitigate the risk of Boxwood Blight, choose resistant cultivars, practice good garden hygiene, and monitor your plants for early signs of infection.
The Box Tree Moth is an invasive pest native to Asia that feeds on Boxwood plants. Since its arrival in North America, this moth has wreaked havoc on Boxwood populations, leading to defoliation and plant stress. Symptoms of infestation include see-through plants, "stick shrubs," and stem cankers. Regular monitoring and integrated pest management strategies are essential for controlling this destructive insect.
As Boxwood plants continue to face challenges from pests and diseases, it is wise to consider alternative options for our gardens. Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) is a versatile, broadleaf evergreen that can be shaped into hedges or topiaries. Its small, glossy leaves provide a neat appearance, and its adaptability to various soil types and sun exposure makes it a low-maintenance choice.
Euonymus japonicus (Japanese Euonymus), an evergreen shrub with small, glossy leaves and tolerance for a range of growing conditions is another possible substitution. Its compact growth habit and easy maintenance make it an excellent choice for hedges or screens.
Ilex glabra (Inkberry), is a slow-growing evergreen native to North America, featuring dark green leaves and red berries in the fall. Its low, spreading habit makes it ideal for low hedges or mass plantings.
Privets (Ligustrum), are fast-growing, low-maintenance evergreen shrubs with small, glossy leaves. They can be used for hedges, screens, or as stand-alone specimens. However, keep in mind that three cultivars, border privet, (Ligustrum obtusifolium Sieb. & Zucc), California privet, (Ligustrum ovalifolium Hassk.) and European privet (Ligustrum vulgare L.) are listed on UConn’s invasive plant database. If you decide to plant privets, look for seedless cultivars such as Golden Ticket privet (Ligustrum x vicaryi "KCLX1") at your local nursery.
The Boxwood Blight and Box Tree Moth present ongoing challenges for gardeners and landscapers. By understanding these threats and adopting appropriate management strategies, we can mitigate the damage they cause. Additionally, exploring alternative plants can help create more resilient and sustainable gardens in the face of these challenges. With careful planning and thoughtful plant selection, our landscapes can continue to thrive in the face of adversity.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For questions about your boxwoods or other gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.
This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 22, 2025
It was been updated from its original publishing on Feb. 27, 2025
Preparing for Spring on CRIS Radio
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
CRIS Radio: Focal Point 2/21/2025
Heather Zidack from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center talks to host, Stephen Thal, about climate change in the garden, houseplants, seed starting and more!
Transcript
Transcript
00:00:01 Stephen Thal
Hi, welcome to another segment on focal Point. This is Stephen Thal and I'm your host for today's program.
We're going to be learning a lot about getting ready for the spring when we realize the weather is still not quite ready for spring flowers, but we want to get everybody thinking about it. So when the time comes, they'll have some ammunition and be prepared to get in there and get their hands dirty.
00:00:31 Stephen Thal
To help us understand that we have Heather from the plant and science program at the University of Connecticut. Welcome back Heather.
00:00:41 Heather Zidack
Hi Stephen. Thanks for having me back!
00:00:43 Stephen Thal
Yeah, it's great because you gave everybody some spirits to think about and encouragement. One of the things that we've been reading about lately is about climate control. And we were curious, you know, as we look around the country, different things are happening. People can't seem to explain why the weather has changed so drastically, and we're sure that this will impact the way we think about our flowers and the way we want to put a garden in and do herbs. Can you help us understand what climate control may be doing to this?
00:01:22 Heather Zidack
Yeah. So there are some things that we are noticing, especially from people just calling into our office with , um, in relation to climate change and a couple of the big things that have happened in 2023, I believe it was the fall of 2023 they did change the USDA hardiness zones. Which, when you're shopping for plants, your zone is actually going to tell you the coldest temperature that plants can tolerate to survive in your area. And so Connecticut, we're about a Zone 6 at this point, is the safe one. But it did shift and so there are parts of the state that are even seeing some warmer. Especially Shoreline is a little closer to zone 7.
And you can look that up through the USDA to see the change from the zones. But that's a big change. Part of that happened because they had more data points and they could actually get more weather stations to report on what was going on, so it became a little more accurate in that sense. But we are also seeing some climate change effects happening as well.
We’ve seen you know a lot of flooding over the past couple years. Remember up in you know, Vermont, New Hampshire, they had some of those floods that led to crop loss and contamination of fields. Storms with heavy winds can damage a lot of crops sometimes.
And higher heat and humidity can affect your gardens as well.
So if you're looking for management techniques, the first thing that you can do is make sure that you're providing enough water and nutritional support to your plants to endure any stresses that they might see during the growing season. So get a soil test.
Have your your soil ready to go. Know what fertilizer you need.
And make sure you're watering. Not too much, not too little. But you're keeping up with what the plants need. That's going to help them build their defenses, just like when we take vitamin C in the winter to prevent colds.
If you're going to be seeing some hot weather come around and there's heat management strategies, one of the first things you want to do is remove weeds. It actually helps to increase air flow around the plants and also remove competition for some of those nutrients and water that I talked about a minute ago.
You can also use shade cloth or something to kind of keep the plants out of the hot hot heat of the sun, especially on those really hot days. If you're able to, If you've got potted plants and you can move them to a a sheltered spot on those hot days it works for them.
But those are a couple heat management strategies.
00:03:58 Stephen Thal
What about bugs?
00:03:59 Heather Zidack
For me? Oh.
00:04:00 Stephen Thal
What about anima-, little bugs like fleas, ticks, beetles?
00:04:04 Heather Zidack
Yeah, well, it's something that we notice in the garden and when we see these different fluctuations in heat and temperature. We see a lot of fluctuations in our insect populations.
So we do see there have been some instances where you haven't had the ability to really have a good kill off of everything in the environment. And so the next year we see more bugs coming out. Our office deals primarily with the garden insects and the pathogens. So seeing things like-Last year, there was a lot of Japanese beetles. Last year there was a lot of fungal infections.
Really, the best thing that you can do for that is again making sure any weeds are gone so they don't have anywhere to hide in your garden. You can also space your plants as they're recommended in order to make sure that you're having good airflow and good movement in between them, and again you're removing hiding places and you also want to prune all your woody ornamentals to encourage air flow too.
So if those are some good strategies for that.
00:05:09 Stephen Thal
You mentioned fertilizer and doing soil testing. Is there a phone number that people can call and how do they do that?
00:05:17 Heather Zidack
Absolutely, so soil testing can be done anytime that the ground is not frozen, so I think we're in the one time of the year where we can't do it right now, but once the ground thaws, the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab is available for testing.They do a standard nutrient test and that covers all the basic nutrients that you would need for your home garden as well as pH so their phone number is 860-486-4274.
Again, that's 860-486-4274.
00:05:57 Stephen Thal
Ok, Great.
00:05:58 Stephen Thal
So we now got to prepare for maintaining our house plants. As well as taking care of those that we choose to go outside and give them some fresh air and not allow too much heat, how are we going to do this?
How do we prepare for it?
00:06:16 Heather Zidack
Yeah. So one of the things that you want to make sure that you're doing, it's still a little too cold to put anything outside just yet. You want to remember that our target is 50° at night before you're putting any plants outside.
What you want to do with your house plans inside is you want to check for water. Make sure that they're accurate adequately-They have enough moisture in the pot.
You want to check with your fingers, make sure that it's not clumping up too much in your hand. You want to make sure that it's also not like sand texture. You want to make sure there's an even moisture you might not need to water as much right now, especially if your plants are dormant, just like we don't think about hydration much in the winter, because we're not outside and in the heat, plants are the same way. So check before you water every time.
The other thing that you can do right now is dust the leaves to scout for pests and disease.
You can also start fertilizing your house plants when you see new and active growth. So like if there's new leaves, if there's new buds, if they're new shoots, those are signs your plant is waking up and you could use a little food at that point.
And you want to make sure that you're checking any bulbs or plants that you have in winter storage. So if you dug anything up from your yard, like Canna lilies or Gladiolus bulbs or anything like that, check those bulbs in storage.
Make sure they’re firm. Make sure there's no discoloration or smell to them and they should have some kind of humidity with them, but not too much. So if you had stored them in peat Moss, maybe missed in with the bottle for a second, but they don't need sopping water just yet. So you want to check all of those things.
00:07:56 Stephen Thal
And what kind of tools do we need to help us with our projects?
00:08:03 Heather Zidack
So big thing right now is going to be pruning season, so you can use-depends on the the size of the plant. But if you're outside, you want to have some some good hand pruners or some loppers- Depends on the size of your branches, but pruning right now is an advantage because there's low disease and low pest pressure outside, so plants can easily recover without being exposed to any other diseases.
In general, people use hand pruners or like I said Loppers which are a little bit larger to cut their their trees back.
And the rule that you follow is the rule of thirds. You don't want to cut off more than 1/3 of the entire plant if you want to leave 2/3 standing. And that ensures that there's enough of a ratio between roots and shoots that there's healthy regrowth.
With that being said there are some different pruning techniques that can be suggested for different species of plants.
So always consult with an arborist or landscaper or give our office a call. If you ever have any questions.
00:09:10 Stephen Thal
And what about choosing the right fertilizer?
I know there are many different kinds. I know I've heard of fertilizer from Maine where they save all of the lobster shells, crab shells and mix them all together. And that's supposed to be good too, for your plants.
00:09:29 Heather Zidack
There's all kinds of fertilizers out there and so. There's different products that are organic. You have things like manures and composts and things like that. Also have synthetic materials like regular. You have coast of Maine like you talked about. The important thing when you're looking for fertilizers, we always recommend getting that soil test first. Because you want to know what your baseline is, right?
You want to know where you're starting before you add anything else. Once you have that, the soil test is going to tell you in general terms you have 3 numbers on a bag. If you look at a bag of fertilizer, there's going to be usually something like the effect of 10-10-10, 5-5-5, 10-15-10 20-20-20, something like that.
Those 3 numbers there, those 3 numbers represent in this order nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. So when you're looking at those numbers, you're actually looking at a percentage of how much of that nutrient is in the bag.
00:10:31 Heather Zidack
So once you have your soil test for example and it says you are deficient in potassium. So, NPK, your third number there would be the one that you would want to add a little bit more of you would maybe look for something like a 5-5-10.
00:10:47 Heather Zidack
It all depends on what your soil test comes out as and what you're actually looking for with a specific crop, so it's hard to give a generalization, but knowing how to read that bag is your first step in knowing what to shop for when you're ready.
00:11:02 Stephen Thal
If we're going ahead and deciding to plant herbs, is this a good time of the year inside to get those started?
00:11:11 Heather Zidack
Absolutely. There's a lot of plants that you can start right now. Herbs are going to be great for kitchen gardens. You can pretty much start them any time of year.
Great for culinary purposes, but they're also loved by pollinators. The Swallow tail Caterpillar in particular loves things like dill and parsley plants, and they're all over them in my yard. So I actually grow a little extra just for them.
00:11:35 Heather Zidack
You get a lot of fragrance and texture out of all of the fresh herbs, which is fantastic, and it can be easily done, indoor or outdoor.
So right now you would want to start everything indoors that you want. The really cool thing with herbs is that there are some of them, like basil is an example. You know how they sell the basil plants in grocery stores, right?
00:11:56 Stephen Thal
Right.
00:11:57 Heather Zidack
So what you can do is you can actually cut off a stem of that basil, remove the leaves up to like the first leaf, maybe the first 3 or 4 leaves up there, put it in water, and it'll send out its own roots that you could then put in a pot yourself.
00:12:12 Heather Zidack
So you don't necessarily even need to do anything with seeds. You can do cuttings to keep your herbs going.
00:12:17 Heather Zidack
The only thing I would recommend is to plant if you're going to plant mint. Keep it in containers and keep it away from the ground. Don't put it outside unless you want to grow it for the rest of your life. It does have a pretty aggressive tendency, and once it hits the ground and gets rooted in, it can just grow and grow and grow. And then you have mint in that area forever.
But other than that, herbs are great to start right now.
00:12:43 Heather Zidack
A lot of people are starting, especially if they do cut flowers and small seeded plants right now. Like if you think snapdragons. If you think Cosmos, some of those they need to start now because they need a lot of time to grow. Veggie wise. People are starting things like broccoli and Brussels sprouts at this point.
Most people have started like onions and shallots by now, but you probably still have time if you were to do it like right now. And so really, there's a lot of different veggies that you could be starting right now.
00:13:19 Stephen Thal
Yeah, those are are very critical things that we have to keep keep aware of.
00:13:26 Heather Zidack
Yeah, timing is everything with when it comes to starting.
00:13:30 Stephen Thal
Right. And this is Stephen Thal with another segment on Focal Point and we're interviewing Heather from the Yukon plant and Science program and they offer a lot of help to citizens in the state. In terms of not only analyzing the soil, but talking to you about the different kinds of plants or herbs that you might want to consider starting and what has to be done to maintain them, and we know that Climate change has strongly impacted the way we have to do our season so that we can take all of our hard labor in to make sure we get some good results and not have it fail for us during the during the coming growing season.
00:14:20 Stephen Thal
I think it.
00:14:20 Heather Zidack
Yeah.
00:14:21 Stephen Thal
I think it forces us to have a have a little more time to work with this.
00:14:30 Heather Zidack
Yeah, it's really interesting. You know the frost date is a big thing that's important when you start planting seeds and when you start planting outside, especially with vegetable gardens and a lot of gardeners-
I remember, even when I was young, used to plant right around Mother's Day, which is in mid-May. In the past couple years, we probably could have done that, but you have to really watch the weather.
I've seen a few seasons where you're waiting past Memorial Day, which is the end of May at this point, and it's-For me, Memorial Day has become more of that target. Be like-this Is definitely the weekend things are going to go in.
You can keep an eye on the weather. And as long as the weather is staying above, you know, we're not getting frost. You can put your seedlings out, but you're taking a risk because we can have a frost anytime in that spring, part of May, and if you do you can lose your seedlings, so if you do put anything in the ground a little bit early do so with caution.
Keep an eye on the weather and be prepared to be able to run out and cover them if you need to. We always recommend like fabric coverings like either a towel or a sheet or a pillow case or something like that to cover your plants if they're in the ground and we have a frost coming. Using anything like plastic is definitely going to exacerbate the problem and cause more damage when it comes to frost and freezes than anything else.
So I would say. Look at your frost date.
I know the Farmers Almanac has a target frost date that you can look up, but if you want to play on the super safe side, I plant right around Memorial Day and that's a good time to plant, be outside and make sure that you're keeping an eye on the weather when you're putting things out.
00:16:21 Stephen Thal
Are there specific questions you should be asking the local gardeners or when you go in and buy things? To make sure you're getting the things that you want, especially the different plants.
00:16:35 Heather Zidack
Yeah, you want to look for quality seed whenever you're purchasing. In general, most garden centres have. Seed that is timely. So you're going to see, just like we have certain products in the grocery store that have like an expiration date. There are seeds that have that date planted on the back.
They should be packed for this year and I believe they have to sell seeds that are packed for this year, so that's not something that you have to worry about too much, but it is good to know where to look for that information. Look at where It will say “packed for” and then it will have the year on there.
It'll also show the germination rate, which is how well, the seed will actually sprout. That's advertised on the envelope as well as like a quality control and so you want to make sure that it's got a good germination rate.
I've seen seed products before that I've purchased where they had a note on the envelope that said last year we had a low germination rate. So this year we're giving you extra seed and in the envelope it was a little heavier pack than what it had been in previous year.
So you want to make sure you've got a good germination rate. You want to make sure that there's a a date that's packed for this year. Those are both more important than anything like brand. You want to make sure that you're looking for good seed when you're starting.
Something to keep in mind is that there are- if you are someone who saves seeds from year to year, you want to make sure you're storing them well. Keeping them in a cool, dry area.
And if you do have seeds that are either seed that you've saved and you have a history of, like plant disease in previous years, or if you've bought untreated seeds and you have a reason to have concern that maybe you had some kind of, you know, plant disease a previous year. You can have your seeds treated with something called hot water seed treatment and our plant diagnostic lab does that.
00:18:37 Heather Zidack
To help make sure that there are no pathogens on the feed when you plant them in the ground to give them a healthy start. So that's an option, especially if you have a history of disease in your garden that some gardeners do like to take advantage of.
00:18:52 Stephen Thal
Oh, that's good.
00:18:53 Stephen Thal
Are there any special plants that some of the gardeners may be putting out this for sale that we need to be aware of, especially for the disease?
00:19:04 Heather Zidack
So you want to be careful with-I will say if you're looking at things like plant swaps and you're going to like Garden Club plant swaps and things like that, we did help out a lot of garden clubs last year as they were looking at how to do this while still being aware of the jumping warm issue. And so jumping worms are an invasive worm that are going from property to property and the best way to make sure that they don't transfer between properties is to make sure that your roots of your plants are cleaned off.
So. A lot of, especially at plant swaps, a lot of these garden clubs were having people dig their plants that they were willing to donate. Rinse the plants off at the roots. Repot them into soilless potting media.
And then they were willing to trade them and and exchange them at these swaps.
So you want to make sure if you are going to plant swaps, they are taking some kind of precaution like that and if they are not, you can still take the plant home but you want to make sure that you're doing the rinsing of the roots to make sure that nothing is coming onto your property.
00:20:18 Heather Zidack
We had a lot of garden clubs that were able to take some of these procedures and be very successful with their plant swaps and not have to worry about it at all. But education is that first step in knowing how to manage this issue right and so that way they knew that they had to rinse the roots. They had to keep their gardeners educated on how to prevent this from spreading, and they were able to still have plant swaps and stuff, so not encouraging any fear of plant swaps.
Just kind of giving you that heads up of tou may need to wash the roots if you bring some.
00:20:50 Stephen Thal
Yeah, those are very important things. And I think also as a person who may be out with your plants or just sitting in the yard admiring them, I think we need to remind people to wear their sunglasses and to wear a hat and use proper sun protection.
00:21:07 Heather Zidack
Very important. I always used to tell my colleagues when I worked at a garden center, I'd say water the plants and water yourself.
00:21:16 Stephen Thal
That's good.
00:21:17 Stephen Thal
Yeah. Good.
00:21:20 Stephen Thal
Any other items you'd like to have us our listeners be aware of and enjoy their spring fling in the garden and in their house plants.
00:21:32 Heather Zidack
Yeah. One of the things that I would love to make everyone aware of is that the Connecticut Flower and Garden show is coming up at the end of February. It's going to be February 20th to 23rd at the Hartford Convention Center and the Home and Garden Education Center, Myself and my colleagues will be there answering garden questions.
So if you have garden questions, please feel free to stop by and say hi to us. We've also got speakers that are going to be there every single day. And it's a nice taste of spring because a lot of local landscapers and garden centres will do full on displays.
00:22:10 Heather Zidack
It's very cold. We're starting to see Snow and it's nice to take a break and just have that smell of fresh flowers all around and everything. So it's a great opportunity to get a taste of spring. And get your garden questions answered. If you need to see us. So it's really good coming up.
00:22:29 Heather Zidack
The other thing that I have for advice, if you're looking for spring a little bit early is if you have anything like Dogwood, forsythia, crab apple in your house or in your property, you can take cuttings of them and put the branches in warm water.
And they could force the flowers to open right now. So you could get a little bit of spring early in your house by doing that.
00:22:53 Heather Zidack
The other thing that's really important to keep in mind is that if you are an avid gardener. It's a good time to take any of your tools that are in the shed and make sure they're in proper working order. Make sure that all of the handles are tightened.
Make sure everything is sharpened if it needs to be sharpened and paint the handles with a bright red or bright orange paint to help you see them when you put them down in the garden.
00:23:17 Stephen Thal
Yeah. And I think also lawn mowers or any working tools like that should be taken to a mechanic to make sure everything's working.
00:23:24 Heather Zidack
Absolutely anything with an engine. Don't do yourself.
00:23:30 Stephen Thal
Yeah. Sounds like you've had some experiences.
00:23:34 Heather Zidack
Yeah.
00:23:35 Stephen Thal
Now in terms of plants, we have to watch out for some of these poisons that may be used to help plants. Are there any that we should avoid?
00:23:47 Heather Zidack
So most of the ones, fortunately, that you want to avoid too much are not allowed for sale to homeowners. That's a really, really good thing.
What you want to make sure that you're looking at if if anyone is using any chemicals in the garden. Every single product has a label on it, and that label has to match whatever you're trying to to achieve, right?
So If you're trying to eliminate cabbage worms, for example, in your garden. That label needs to say that that product will take care of cabbage worm.
Otherwise you should not be using it whatsoever, and so we say this recommendation with any chemical, but also all of those home remedies that you hear about. We don't recommend using them because there's not that science to back it up that says this label identifies the cabbage worms. And cabbage worms are my identified problem so this is going to work. So that's one of the first things.
00:24:45 Heather Zidack
The other thing that's really important in making sure that you're monitoring regularly and looking for bugs. Because a lot of times if you can take care of the problem early, you don't necessarily need those chemicals. Or there could be other ways to manage it before you get to that point. So as soon as you see something, get a picture and we could help you or have someone at a garden center help you identify what's what's going on. And what you can do to treat it.
00:25:14 Heather Zidack
Reading that label is the most important thing that anybody can do, and it's the safest thing because you want to make sure you're doing targeted approaches to target species when you're using any chemicals in the garden.
00:25:27 Stephen Thal
Yeah. And also if you have a bug you're not familiar with, put it in a little container and send it up to you guys.
00:25:35 Heather Zidack
Yes, we can do that. We do insect identification-insects found in the garden. If, if they're found inside the home, we usually recommend like either a pest control expert or there's other resources available, but we are definitely able to do any garden pest.
00:25:53 Stephen Thal
Yeah. How about the got local garden clubs? Can they be helpful too?
00:25:58 Heather Zidack
Sometimes! They actually have some good resources.
00:26:03 Heather Zidack
If you're looking for an identification or a diagnosis, it really is good to come to the either the plant diagnostic lab or our office here because we have the connection to the diagnostic lab. But there are garden clubs. There are a lot of people with a lot of knowledge about gardening. The the reason that we we pride ourselves on is because we have a lot of research based information that we’re able to share with our clients.
00:26:31 Stephen Thal
Well, we want to thank you for coming in and sharing this vital information for getting your spring things started.
00:26:40 Heather Zidack
Thank you so much for having me.
00:26:40 Stephen Thal
And you know well, give us a call when the neck was a fall we have to get ready.
Or. If there's any alerts, we can send them out.
00:26:50 Heather Zidack
Yes, I will let you know if there's anything else.
00:26:55 Stephen Thal
Well, I thank you very much, Heather, for coming on again. At the program we really enjoyed.
I'm sure I got a lot out of it and I'm sure people here got a lot out of it.
Appreciate you and your staff for all you do, why don't you give your number one more time?
00:27:12 Heather Zidack
Yes, if anybody has gardening questions for us, they can call and our number is 877-486-6271. Again, that's 877-486-6271.
00:27:31 Stephen Thal
OK, very , good. Thank you. Everybody thank you.
Thank you for all you do to help make us a successful spring season.
00:27:39 Heather Zidack
Yes, thank you for having me. Have a good spring!
00:27:41 Stephen Thal
Like this is Steven Thal and another segment on focal point and we wanted to thank you the listeners for listening to all of the focal point programs.
00:27:53 Stephen Thal
As we mentioned earlier in the program, please wear your sunglasses and a hat because the sun is going to be a lot stronger this year because of climate changes.
And also practice a family plan. If you don't know anything about it, contact a local fire department or go on the computer regarding emergency fire plans and involve everybody in in the House and doing a piece of it. And if you practice it a few times and also make sure that. Your fire alarm batteries or whatever are up to date cause a lot of them today are lasting 10 years.
So get involved because life you say may be your own.
00:28:36 Stephen Thal
Thank you for allowing us into your homes. Safe and stay healthy.
Shine a Light – But Which One?
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
By Emily Leahy, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
The dead of winter brings a longing to spend time outside in the garden again. While this may not be possible yet, it is easy to craft your own growing space indoors. The elements of the outdoors that allow plants to thrive – light, warmth, and water – can all be brought indoors with a little creativity and the right resources.
Some steps remain unchanged. Still, refer to the plant’s label for guidance on choosing a proper container, water and nutrient needs, as well as temperature preferences. Guidelines on how much light the plant should receive can also be found on the label – but how can this be applied indoors?
One of the more challenging aspects to simulate, indoors, is an adequate amount of light. When outside, plants rely on the sun for light needed to carry out photosynthesis. This chemical reaction produces sugars which are used as energy in processes essential for the growth and maintenance of a healthy plant. While plants can still receive sunlight indoors through rays shining through windows, this often cannot act as an equitable substitute for unobstructed sunlight outdoors. This is where supplemental light sources in the form of grow lights come into play. Grow lights are specially designed with the purpose of emitting a wider spectrum of light wavelengths to enable photosynthesis. But with so many options available, how can you choose which is the best option?
Generally, there are two types of grow lights – bulbs and fixtures. Bulbs can be placed into existing light fixtures like lamps or overhead lighting. However, this can be unsuitable as it is difficult to control the distance from the plant and angle at which the light shines. Grow light fixtures are separate systems which can provide multiple plants with light simultaneously, offering a more even distribution. With proper setup, they can be positioned at an advantageous angle to provide plants with their preferred amount of light.
Next comes the question of which kind of light is appropriate for your plant – incandescent, fluorescent, or LED? It is important to determine beforehand the level of light which your plant prefers – high, medium, or low. Incandescent lights, while costing the least, are also the least efficient. 90% of their energy is released in the form of heat, while only 10% is light itself. While this makes them good contenders for low-light plants, they also require caution as they can provide plants with an overwhelming amount of heat.
Fluorescent lights are well-suited for plants requiring low to medium light. They emit the full spectrum of light, essential for promoting growth as they mimic natural sunlight. Most often they are seen as strips or tubes of light that can be affixed above plants, but they can also be purchased in bulb form. LED lights emit the full spectrum of light as well, while simultaneously emitting less heat than other bulb types. Yielding a high overall efficiency, LEDs can be customized with different colors/wavelengths of light to provide certain advantages for some plants. For example, blue lights promote vegetative growth, while red lights do the same for flowering and fruit growth.
After choosing the most suitable kind of grow light for your plant, there are a variety of other tips helpful to consider. The type of plant not only determines the proper type of light to use, but also how much light should be provided. Supplying light 24 hours a day is not ideal as it can overwhelm the plant – remember the objective is to mimic the light conditions of the outdoors. Therefore, plants will require some hours of darkness each day.
Seedlings generally prefer 14-16 hours of light per day, as they necessitate the most encouragement for growth. 12 hours of light is suitable for herbs and other greens, while houseplants fall between the range of 6-12 hours per day – be sure to refer to the product label for any specifications on light preferences.
In terms of setup, lights should be angled to ensure a direct stream of emittance onto the plant in order to receive its full benefits. It is best to affix lights about 12 inches from the plant, although adjustments can be made as you see fit. Some indoor gardening systems are available that can be customized to fit specifications according to the type of plant being grown. It is also important to purchase lights that are rated to withstand humidity and moisture if they are being kept in a greenhouse-like environment.
Be sure to always refer to your plant’s label for its specific preferences for light and other growing conditions. With the help of grow lights, you can wait out the winter by bringing a little bit of the outdoors, indoors!
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center contributes to the Cooperative Extension mission of the University of Connecticut by connecting the public with research and resources provided by the University. For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center - (877) 486-6271, visit our website at https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension center https://cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations/.
This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 15, 2025
Soil and Plant Tests for Managing Nitrogen Fertilization
Posted on by Zidack, Heather
By Haiying Tao, Ph.D., UConn Home & Garden Education Center
Nitrogen (N) is often the most limiting nutrient in growing plants. When deficient, plant yields and quality are reduced. However, excessive nitrogen applications could cause concerns in water quality and greenhouse gas emissions. Managing nitrogen is a very difficult task for farmers and gardeners because nitrogen exists in many different forms in the soil and can be lost from soil via many pathways. In addition, different forms nitrogen can be transformed from one form to another. The weather, especially rainfall and temperature, can impact these processes. Heavy rainfall can lead to significant nitrogen leaching and runoff.
Fortunately, there are strategies that can be used to help us manage nitrogen for optimum plant yield and quality, while minimizing nitrogen loss. Most home gardeners benefit from the standard nutrient analysis when testing their soil. Recommendations and questions regarding additional sampling, interpretation, and fertilization recommendations for specific tests and crops mentioned below should be referred to the University of Connecticut Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory.
Predict nitrogen requirement and preplant soil tests
Testing soil for nitrate and ammonium forms of nitrogen as well as soil organic matter (SOM) can help you predict soil nitrogen supply during the growing season. SOM can provide substantial amounts of nitrogen via mineralization, which is a process where soil microorganisms convert organic forms of nitrogen to the plant available forms of ammonium and nitrates.
Typically, for every 1% of SOM in the top 6 inches of soil, approximately 20 to 40 lbs of nitrogen per acre can become available via the mineralization process. If you can predict the nitrogen requirement of the desired crop, the amount of nitrogen that needs to be applied can then be estimated using the differences between demand and supply. Note that for SOM testing, 6-inch soil sampling depth is typically recommended.
Pre-sidedress Soil Nitrogen Test (PSNT)
The Pre-sidedress soil nitrate-nitrogen test (PSNT) can be used for corn and vegetable crops such as tomatoes, peppers, fall planted cabbage, etc. Soil sampling and testing for PSNT takes place in June or early July, typically when corn plants are 6 inches to 1 foot tall. At this time of the year, the heavy rainfall season has passed, soil is at its optimum moisture and temperature condition for mineralization, and crops, like corn, begin to increase nitrogen uptake exponentially.
Soil samples should be collected at 1 foot depth. The samples should be packed with icepacks during shipping to the soil testing labs. Typically, if PSNT is higher than 25 ppm, nitrogen fertilization is unlikely needed. Crops that have shallower root systems may require a slightly higher PSNT level because they do not have extensive root systems to take up nutrients from a large volume of soil.
End-of-Season Cornstalk Nitrate Test (CSNT) for Corn
The end-of-season corn stalk nitrate-N test (CSNT) is a post-harvest plant tissue test for corn that can evaluate nitrogen uptake and availability during the crop’s growing season. This test is appropriate for corn produced under both rain-fed and irrigated conditions. Although the test is too late to guide current crop fertilization, the post-harvest evaluation can estimate N sufficiency levels during the corn growing season and provide a valuable tool for fine-tuning future nitrogen management strategies.
Approximately one week prior to or after harvest, 15 random cornstalk samples for every 10 to 15 acres should be collected to form a composited sample. Each cornstalk sample should be collected by cutting an 8-inch section between 6 and 14 inches above the ground. Remove the leaves and sheaths, place the samples in a paper bag, and immediately send the samples to a laboratory for CSNT testing. Avoid taking samples from severely damaged plants. Typically, a CSNT higher than 2000 ppm suggests excessive nitrogen was available during the crop growing season.
We recommend that farmers regularly conduct CSNT to evaluate N sufficiency levels in their cornfields and fine-tune their N management strategies in subsequent growing seasons. Farmers should begin their fine-tuning by reducing fertilizer N applications in cornfields where CSNT results were in the excessive category or even eliminating fertilizer N applications if the CSNT is exceptionally high in the heavily manure fields. Notice that the CSNT could be high in drought years, this is another reason that it is best to test CSNT every year to accurately assess the nitrogen management practices.
If you have further questions about the different types of soil tests available to farmers and home gardeners, please contact the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory at 860-486-6270 or at https://soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu/. The UConn Home & Garden Education Center contributes to the Cooperative Extension mission of the University of Connecticut by connecting the public with research and resources provided by the University. For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center (877) 486-6271, visit our website at https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension center https://cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations/.
This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 8, 2025
Pruning, Birds & Other February News
Posted on by Zidack, Heather

"In winter's cold and sparkling snow,
The garden in my mind does grow..."
— Cynthia Adams
Winter is Great for Pruning
Late February and early March are an ideal time for pruning many of our favorite woody ornamentals. Gardeners and landscapers prune for many reasons including plant health, aesthetic appeal, better fruiting/flowering, safety and size management.
Cold weather can help to limit pathogens and pests entering woody stems through fresh cut wounds. In spite of this, it is still best practice to sterilize your pruners with a bleach or alcohol wipe before moving from one tree to the next.
Avoid cutting spring flowering ornamentals, however, as they may already have their buds set and ready to go. Always research the pruning techniques for the specific species you are working with to ensure best results.
Landscaping to Support Birds in Winter
Birds can be attracted to properties during the winter if there are suitable food plants.
Some of the best for winter fruits are native winterberry and inkberry, native and non- native viburnums, native eastern red cedar and crabapples.
Perennials such as coneflowers, Rudbeckia, asters, grasses with seedheads and goldenrods that are left standing, so seeds are available, are also good for birds. Throughout the winter, as seeds are eaten, plants can be cut back if desired.
Caring for Birds in the Winter
Native Trees, Shrubs and Vines with Wildlife Value
Bird Flu Safety for Gardeners
Seeing Avian Influenza (Bird Flu) in the news recently may raise questions about wild bird populations in our gardens. While we are not animal professionals, we have a few general tips and resources to share.
- Always avoid direct contact with sick or dead birds.
- Heed the recommendations of your state and local government agencies regarding keeping bird feeders out or taking them down.
- Report sightings of dead birds (especially in large groups) to CT DEEP
- If you have additional questions, CT DEEP Wildlife Division, the State Veterinarian, or the Connecticut Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory are all great resources that can assist!
There are three agencies in the state of CT are keeping an eye on developments.
- Questions regarding wildlife should go to CT Dept of Energy & Environmental Protection Wildlife Division
- Questions regarding backyard poultry should go to CT Dept of Agriculture or the State Veterinarian
- Questions regarding human health concerns can be directed to CT Dept of Health
Word from the WiSE
Air flow, Avoid Fungus Growth!
This month, the UConn Women in Soil Ecology club brings you a word about conditions needed for starting seedlings: Avoiding the dangers of the fuzzy white fungus.
This month, the UConn Women in Soil Ecology club brings you a word about conditions needed for starting seedlings: Avoiding the dangers of the fuzzy white fungus.
Have you ever experienced a fuzzy white fungus growing in your seedling tray? If so, your seedlings may have been at risk of damping off. Damping off is a soilborne fungal disease that can cause your seedlings to rot. The typical culprits in your seedling trays are the fungi Rhizoctonia spp., Fusarium spp., and Pythium spp. These fungi love cool and wet conditions. If your seedlings have fallen over or collapsed, it may be a sign of these pathogens.
Overwatering your seedlings can put them at an increased risk, so it is best to adjust your watering regime and increase air flow. To prevent damping off, be sure to use fresh potting media and sterilize your pots, trays, and tools if they are being reused from previous growing seasons or made contact with garden soil. Provide your seedlings with warmth and bright light for seedling success!
By Nora Doonan – Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA
Knowledge to Grow On
Read our Ladybug blogs written weekly:
Common Slime Molds of Connecticut Woodlands
SEED PACKETS 101: A Beginner’s Guide to Reading a Seed Packet
Upcoming Events and Things to Do
- Get your seeds and seed starting supplies, locally! While many big box stores can be a great resource for affordable seed and seed starting products, local garden centers throughout the state are starting to provide these products and their expertise as well!
- Find something to please everyone in the family with 37 Things to Do in CT this February!
Educational Opportunities & Workshops
- Attend A Local Garden Club meeting, talk, or workshop
- Northeast Extension Fruit Consortium - Various dates through February & March, Via Zoom
- Gardening for the Frogs - Feb. 20, 2025, via Zoom
- UConn's Master Gardener Program runs a Seed Distribution program in the winter in partnership with Ocean State Job Lot. This program helps donate seed to schools, community organizations, and non-profits across the state.
CT Flower & Garden Show 2025
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center will have our booth at the CT Flower Show this year! Come and say hello to our Plant & Soil Health Staff and Master Gardener Volunteers!
Speakers & Presentations from the UConn Plant & Soil Health Team
- Thursday 2/20 - 11:00 AM
- Al's Top Secret Compost Recipe
- Alastair Ong, Esq., UConn Master Composter
- Al's Top Secret Compost Recipe
- Friday 2/21 - 12:30 PM
- Look at Interesting Connecticut Lichens and Slime Molds
- Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
- Look at Interesting Connecticut Lichens and Slime Molds
- Saturday 2/22 - 12:30 PM
- Learning to Speak Horticulture
- Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
- Learning to Speak Horticulture
- Sunday 2/23 - 11:00 AM
- Be a Plant P.I. Learn to Detect, Identify and Prevent Plant Diseases
- Dr. Nick Goltz, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab
- Be a Plant P.I. Learn to Detect, Identify and Prevent Plant Diseases
February Gardening Tips
- Recent temperature swings may cause perennials to heave out of the ground. Gently push them back into the soil or cover with mulch.
- When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.
- When using salt to melt ice on walks and driveways, spread it carefully to avoid damage to nearby shrubs. Consider using sand or sawdust instead. After the snow melts, flush the area around the roots exposed to salt with fresh water.
- Bring pruning tools inside and clean them for the upcoming season. Disassemble hand pruners, and loppers. Sharpen the blades, oil the levers, and remove any rust.
- If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly.
- If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!
- Brush snow from evergreens as soon as possible after a storm. Use a broom in an upward, sweeping motion. Serious damage may be caused by heavy snow or ice accumulating on the branches.
- Turn the compost pile during any stretches of mild weather.
- Clean leaves of large and smooth leaved houseplants like dracaena, philodendron, ficus, etc.
- Scout for invasive vines like bittersweet. Cut them off of tree trunks to help discourage girdling.
- This is the time to start small-seeded flowers such as begonias and petunias. Leek and onion seeds should also be started as soon as possible.
This Month’s Newsletter Contributors:
Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Marie Woodward, Nora Doonan