Author: Zidack, Heather

Tips from UConn Floriculture Help Spruce Up Container Plantings

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Fall container plant selection at a greenhouse
Photo by dmp2024

As summer wanes and the cool breezes of autumn begin to roll into Connecticut, it’s the perfect time to refresh your container plantings. Shelley Durocher-Nesta, UConn Plant Science Floriculture Grower, says this summer’s rain and high temperatures have many of our container plantings looking a little ragged but fall presents a unique opportunity to infuse your outdoor spaces with rich colors, interesting textures, and seasonal charm that lasts well into the cooler months

By the end of summer, many annuals start to fade. To maintain a lush and lively look, she suggests replacing them with plants that thrive in cooler weather. A top candidate for fall plantings, both containerized and inground are mums, obviously. They offer an explosion of color in shades of yellow, bronze, pink and reds. Asters are runner’s up, flashing their cooler shades of purples and pinks.

Ornamental cabbages and kale are leafy plants bringing texture and interest to plantings, often with their lacy ruffled edges. Hues range from deep purple to violet and from white to green, some being two-toned.

Recently, pansies and violas have been showing up as fall bloomers. These delicate flowers add a pop of color and laugh off light frosts. Pansies, with their cheerful ‘faces’ are particularly popular and come in a wide range of colors. Ornamental peppers in shades of yellow, purple red and orange are also available often in 4-inch pots

Depending on your color scheme and container size, two other great fall accompaniments are heuchera (coral bells) with their stunning foliage in a myriad of colors, and sedums that can be used either for their unique fleshy foliage or pollinator-friendly blooms.

Don’t forget ornamental grasses for their attractive seedheads and whispering foliage. If pinched for room, a few stalks of dried grasses or wheat can give your containers a rustic, harvest-time feel.

Before purchasing new plants, access the plants presently in your containers. Groom, deadhead and cut back leggy annuals like petunias and verbena. If you have summer plants that are still thriving, you can repurpose them by combining them with fall plants in the same container for a mixed-season look. However, often one finds that their summer layout doesn’t work as well with new plants. Don’t hesitate to replace staid offerings. Durocher-Nesta, agrees saying that switching out her summer planters that are getting a little tired by the end of August is a joy.

Container full of fall annuals
Photo by dmp2024

Refresh the soil in containers before planting new fall selections. Summer plants have depleted the nutrients, so replacing the top few inches with fresh potting mix can get fall plants off to a better start. If your container is large and you can’t replace all the soil, mix in some compost or at least a slow-release fertilizer, as directed on the package, to rejuvenate it,

Consider elevating some containers on stands or steps to create varying heights. Grouping containers of different sizes together on your porch or patio can also add depth and visual interest.

One of the joys of fall container gardening is the chance to play with a different color palette. While summer is about bright, vibrant colors, fall offers a more subdued, warm earthy palette. Think deep purples, burnt oranges, and rich reds, balanced with greens and whites.

As the weather cools, plants will need less water but check regularly. Container plants can dry out quickly especially on sunny fall days. Stick a finger in and add water when the top inch of potting media feels dry.

Regularly deadhead spent flowers and remove any yellowing leaves to keep your containers looking tidy and to encourage continued blooming. As frost becomes more likely, be prepared to cover sensitive plants or bring containers indoors on particularly cold nights.

In addition to the plants, fall-themed accents can enhance the seasonal appeal of your containers. Consider adding small pumpkins, gourds, or decorative squash to the mix. For a touch of whimsy, add seasonal decorations like mini scarecrows, wooden sunflowers or decorative berries.

Sprucing up your container plantings for fall in Connecticut can bring a fresh, seasonal look to your outdoor spaces. With the right plant choices, thoughtful arrangement, and a few seasonal accents, your containers can remain a focal point of beauty and interest well into the cooler months. Durocher-Nesta shares thoughts about her favorite fall flower: “Bright and fresh mums bring a smile to my face during a time of year when falling leaves and shorter days mean winter is coming.  They’re one last Hoorah! for the growing season.”

If you have questions on container plantings or on any other home or garden topic, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Late Season Pollinator Plants, Cucurbits, Harvesting, and other September News

September is for Late Season Pollinator Plants, Cucurbits, Preparing & Storing your Harvest

"By all these lovely tokens, September days are here. With summer's best of weather and autumn's best of cheer."
- Helen Hunt Jackson


 

Late Season Plants for Pollinators

As gardeners, it is important for us to be able to enjoy our gardens as long as possible into the colder months! As allies and companions to our beloved pollinators, it is part of our task to help provide food sources to help them prepare for the winter months as well. 

Annuals

Butterflies on Zinnia flowers
Photo by H. Zidack

  • Zinnias are a long-season pollinator plant that will continue to perform into the fall. You may even see them returning to garden centers to be included in fall containers. 
  • Other late season bloomers like Tithonia, Lantana, Marigolds, Sunflowers  and Cosmos are particularly important food sources for migrating butterflies and other insects. Hummingbirds are very fond of lanatana nectar, so they will benefit as they migrate through in September.   

 

The Fall Garden is Still Great for Pollinators

Perennials

  • Goldenrod in full bloomNative goldenrods (Solidago spp.) provide nectar and pollen for diverse species of insects and seeds for birds and small mammals. Different species bloom from August- late September or even into October, when other native plants are past bloom time. They are important sources of energy for migrating butterflies and for bees that are active late in the season.
  • Other late season pollinator plants include Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Sedum and Asters

Planting for Pollinators


Late Season Cucurbit Harvesting

Watermelon on the vine

    Watermelons

    Watermelons  take 35-45 days to  mature after flowering, but temperatures and variety will affect time to harvest To determine if a watermelon is ripe, use these signs:

    • There is a curling tendril closest to the melon- this should turn brown and dry out
    • Carefully turn melon over to see f the white blotch where soil contact was made is now yellow
    •  Rind should be dull, not shiny
    •  Thump the melon- sound should be hollow-sounding, deep and resonant. Unripe melons will have a higher pitched flatter sound
    •  Check the days to maturity as given on the seed packet. If it says 65 days, then it should be ripe at that time, but check above signs, too. If you do not know the variety, then use 1-4 as a reference.

    Pumpkins/Gourds

    This time of year is when pumpkins will start reaching maturity. Harvest will be here before you know it! Keep these things in mind while deciding "is it time?"

    • Skin should be thick and pumpkins should be firm
    • Leave the stem intact to ensure a longer shelf life
    • Never lift or carry a pumpkin by the stem
    • Read More Tips

    Winter Squash

    Winter squash have many of the same harvest characteristics as pumpkins and gourds. 

    • Similar to pumpkins, the skin should be hard and difficult to puncture with a fingernail
    • Leaving 3-4 inches of stem attached helps preserve the fruit
    • Read More Tips

     

     


    Preparing and Storing your Harvest

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center is here to help you get your plants from seed to harvest! 

    While we're not able to answer your questions about what happens once the produce is picked, we do have partners who are here to help you with just that!

    UConn's Food Safety program can take you "from Harvest to Feast!"

     

    UConn's Food Safety Program

    Home Food Preservation at UConn


    Native Plant Highlight: Shrub Dogwoods

    Shrub dogwood with blue berries

    Shrub dogwoods like silky (Cornus obliqua) and red osier (Cornus sericea) and gray (Cornus racemosa ) not only provide food for pollinators in the spring, but they are an important source of food for birds and animals in late summer and fall. They are available at most garden centers that feature native plants and their a cultivars. Many can tolerate some shade and moist soils.

    Learn More About Shrub Dogwoods


    Vegetable Gardening Resources

    During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

    While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

    If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

    8/30/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

    Read Previous Pest Messages

    New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024


    UConn Fruit Update

    The UConn Fruit Program publishes a fruit update, very similar to the IPM Vegetable Pest Alert. If you keep fruit trees, this may be a valuable resource for you! If you ever need help understanding how to apply these principles to your own home garden, let us know!

    Read the Latest UConn Fruit Update

    New England Tree Fruit Management Guide


    September 2024 Weather Outlook

    A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns in September will bring us into harvest season!

      September Precipitation Outlook  September Temperature Outlook


    Knowledge to Grow On

     


    Upcoming Events and Things to Do

    • The Mattabesett Trail is a 62-mile trail that features some of the most outstanding cliff views and ridge walking in Connecticut, especially on the western sections. It links to many state forests, land trust preserves and parks. Other sections have brooks, bogs, hardwood forests and high ledges looking over the Connecticut River.
    • It's Apple Season! Visit a pick-your-own orchard, or find your favorite apple flavored treats starting this month! 
    • The Big E is this month! Visit for agricultural displays, food, entertainment, and more! Starting Sept. 13th
    •  Sept 15-21 is National Indoor Plant Week.

        Educational Opportunities & Workshops


          CT Invasive Plant Working Group
          In-Person Symposium
          October 29th, 2024
          UConn Student Union
          Storrs, CT

          cipwg.uconn.edu


          compost bin

          2024 UConn Master Composter Program

          Interested in learning more about composting and sharing your knowledge with others? UConn will be holding its Master Composter program this September. The Master Composter program is a train the trainer program where participants will learn about the various aspects of composted and then donate a minimum of 20 hours volunteer time engaging in outreach projects that may include activities such as tabling at events, giving presentations or working with schools or community gardens. When outreach goals have been met, participants will be certified as Master Composters and receive a certificate of completion. There is a registration fee.

          The 2024 program will be a hybrid program with two in-person Saturday sessions, September 14 & 28 along with two evening online sessions, September 19 & 27 via WebEx. The two Saturday classes will be held at the Middlesex County Extension Center, 1066 Saybrook Rd, Haddam, CT 06438. It is anticipated that two field trips will be offered this fall, also on weekends

          If interested, please visit: The Master Composter Homepage

          Feed The Earth……Compost!

           


          September Gardening Tips

                • September is a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!
                • Early fall is a good time to plant trees and shrubs and allows time for the root systems to get established before the ground freezes.
                • Visit a local nursery or garden center and select spring flowering bulbs to add to your gardens. Plant the bulbs among perennials, under trees and shrubs, or in larger groups for a splendid spring show. Choose colors that complement other spring flowering plants as well as nearby plantings. Work a little Bulb Booster or 5-10-10 into the bottom of the planting holes.
                • Continue to water any new shrub or tree plantings until the first hard frost.
                • Do not fertilize trees, shrubs and perennials in late summer. Doing so may cause new growth that will not harden off before winter.
                • Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.
                • Move the houseplants to their indoor locations before the furnace gets turned on so they can start becoming used to the lower indoor light and humidity levels.
                • Pot up or propagate herbs to bring indoors for winter use.
                • Watch for frost warnings and cover tender plants.
                • Do not add diseased leaves or stems into the compost pile. Temperatures of home compost do not usually get high enough to kill pathogens and can cause disease to reoccur in your garden next year. 
                • Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.

                More September Gardening Tips


                This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

                 

                Fall is a Fabulous Time to Plant!

                By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Evergreens for sale at a nursery
                Photo by H. Zidack

                There’s no doubt that spring planting is exciting. The instant gratification that comes with putting in our new gardens and seeing flowers and greenery right away is unmatched.  Late season planting is a different animal altogether. There’s a slower pace, less pressure for perfection, and a promise of beauty next season – leaving us the chance to take up other projects in the spring.

                Many gardeners will start planting hardy bulbs this fall, but you can do so much more! Planting trees, shrubs, and perennials in the late summer/early fall provides enough time for plants to get established without the heat and drought stresses of summer. New plants installed in the fall have enough time to develop healthy roots and settle in before winter. Allow at least 6 weeks (about 1 and a half months) before the first hard frost to ensure strong establishment. It’s less stressful for plants, but also easier for gardeners to plant, water, and support our gardens when the weather is a bit cooler.

                Your fall planted perennials, trees and shrubs will also flower “on time” next spring. Whether you've noticed it or not, flowering plants that we buy during the growing season are sometimes manipulated to bloom when you see them on the shelf. And while most plants will settle into their natural flowering cycle after their first year, planting in the fall ensures that you are starting the season with a bed that will bloom as nature intended.

                Watering a shrub after planting
                Photo by dmp2024

                Keep a keen eye out for garden centers that may be trying to sell down their stock, so they don’t have to keep it during the winter. Plants may look a little more weathered, and past their prime. But don’t fret! If you shop smart, you can find some great plants for fantastic prices.

                Shop for plants that have a nice form and strong root ball. Avoid plants that have apparent injury to trunks or branches. Old insect feeding damage, off colored leaves, or some drought damage may be recoverable. Remember that perennials will be cut back before their next flush, and deciduous shrubs will drop leaves and need pruning regardless of what they may look like right now. Never buy a plant that seems to have issues that you cannot identify, regardless of the bargain. If there are plants that you want that are unavailable, leave space for them to be planted next season.

                The lower stress environmental conditions also make it a suitable time to transplant or divide plants that bloom in the spring or summer. When digging plants for transplanting, make sure to dig wide and deep to get as much of the root ball as possible. Division is a common practice with perennials and is as simple as driving a shovel through the center of the plant and digging out half of it to put somewhere else. Larger plants can be divided multiple times.

                While it may seem like a promising idea to help push your plants along with some robust growth, fertilizing is not recommended in the fall. Pushing tender growth too close to chilly weather can leave the plant vulnerable to environmental damage, loss of shoots, and possibly even loss of flowers next season. Maintain them with adequate watering and supportive care. Provide good sanitation by removing and disposing of any questionable leaves that fall in your space, especially those from newly installed plants.

                Planting in the fall and supporting your fall garden will help you lay a foundation for a successful spring.

                If you have questions on fall gardening or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                 

                End of Season Strawberry Renovation

                By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Strawberry row
                Strawberries before renovation at the end of the season. Photos by dmp2024

                Strawberry row after renovation
                Strawberries after renovation at the end of the season. Photos by dmp2024

                So, you decided to grow some strawberries this year. You carefully prepared the bed and have enjoyed your first crop. Now you are wondering what to do to keep your strawberry bed healthy and productive. In part, the care after harvest depends on whether you are growing June bearing or day neutral (everbearing) varieties and what kind of row systems you have them planted in.

                June bearing strawberries are most commonly grown in what is known as the matted row system. Mother plants are set 18 to 24 inches apart in 3 to 4 1/2 foot rows and runners are allowed to root anywhere within the row. This system is usually the easiest to maintain. Typically, at the end of the third growing season both plant quality and fruit quantity start to decrease and the whole bed is dug up and replanted with new disease-free strawberry plants. Try to incorporate this into your garden rotation plan to reduce disease problems.

                June bearers can also be grown in single rows composed of different aged plants with the original plants set about a foot apart. A second row is started with first year runners and set 18 inches from the initial planting. Use only the first or second daughter plants produced along the runners because they are the most vigorous and productive. The rest are usually discarded.

                The next year a third row is made again using the first one or two daughter plants and once more surplus runners and plants are removed. After the original mother plants have produced fruit for about 3 years, they are generally replaced with new, disease-free stock and the cycle continues. This way one always has a row or two of strawberries in production. Ideally the row with the new strawberry plants should be located on a section of the garden where strawberries haven’t been grown for 3 to 5 years. This isn’t always possible in small yards, which is why it is important to purchase certified virus free stock.

                After year two when June bearing strawberries have finished producing their crop, it is time to renovate. According to Evan Lentz, UConn Fruit Specialist and Assistant Extension Educator, renovating your June-bearing strawberries is one of the best ways to maximize your annual production, reduce disease instance, and maintain an orderly planting. Proper renovation ensures that you set yourself up for success in the following year and allows you to extend the life and productivity of this semi-perennial crop. This is doubly important for individuals producing fruit in an organic or no-spray system.

                This can be done sometime in July through August. Lentz suggests starting by either mowing or clipping with hand trimmers all the foliage about 2 inches or so above the crowns. Next, go through the bed removing all weeds, and weak and extra strawberry plants and dead or dying leaves. Thin to space plants at least 10 to 12 inches apart and cultivate around these remaining plants.

                Now is the time to fertilize your strawberries whether beds are renovated or not. Lentz recommends working in about 3 to 4 pounds of 10-10-10 or its organic equivalent per 100 square feet. Lightly scratch the fertilizer into the soil. Brush or rinse any fertilizer off leaves at the salts will injure them.

                Day neutrals, such as ‘Tristar’, ‘Seascape’ and ‘Mara des Bois’ produce a fairly decent size crop in June and continue forming occasional berries until frost. Unlike June bearers which develop fruit buds in late summer and early fall, the ever bearers have the ability to form fruit buds throughout the summer. An advantage to growing day neutrals is you will still get strawberries even if a late spring frost kills their initial fruit buds.

                In general, day neutrals are grown for 2 or 3 years and then a new batch of strawberries is planted. The day neutrals produce far fewer runners than the June bearers. The new daughter plants should all be removed although they can be transplanted into another area if desired. Plants are usually set one foot apart in single rows about 18 inches wide.

                According to Lentz, all strawberries require at least an inch of water per week for vigorous growth. If dry weather sets in, plan on irrigating plants, especially those just renovated. Use a mulch of pine needles, straw or wood shavings to conserve moisture, keep weeds down and berries off the soil. Since strawberries are shallow rooted, it is important to keep weeds under control.

                It does take a little time to maintain a strawberry bed but the luxury of picking your own berries for strawberry shortcake, jam or fresh eating makes it all worthwhile. If you have questions about growing strawberries or on any other home or garden topic, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                Spectacular Sedums: Your New Favorite Groundcover

                By Abigayle Ward, UConn Dept. of Plant Science & LA Graduate Student

                A bee on a cluster of pink sedum flowers
                Sedums are very attractive to pollinators. Photo by dmp2024

                With varieties native to North America, tolerance to frigid temperatures down to minus 40 degrees F, and nearly 500 species described, sedums subvert all expectations of a succulent. Also known as stonecrop, sedums have been a garden favorite since the 17th century, and it’s easy to see why. Their visual interest and tolerance of harsh growing conditions make them well-suited as groundcover for the landscaper with an artistic eye.

                You can purchase either tall or creeping varieties of sedums. Also known as ‘clumping’ varieties, tall sedum varieties can grow up to 3 feet tall although many will only grow to 1 foot tall or less. Tall, top-heavy varieties can be prone to falling or flopping over especially if overfertilized or if they receive too much water. They are well-behaved perennials that are clump formers, and thus can be useful as focal points in garden beds. Alternatively, creeping varieties of sedums grow from 2 to about 6 inches tall.  These creeping varieties will spread a few feet in every direction but do so very slowly. If you wish to fill your bed with sedums, you can stick vegetative cuttings throughout the area you want them to grow. Keep moderately moist until well rooted. Once they root, they will usually fill out your bed fairly rapidly.

                With such a large variety of leaf shapes and sizes, interesting bed textures can also be created with sedums. Some varieties have large, broad, spoon-shaped leaves while others have many short, pointed leaves surrounding the main stem. You may wish to combine different textures together into one bed to make a wild, visually striking design, or try taking advantage of certain textures for specific locations in the bed. For example, you could choose short creeping varieties with small leaves for bed edges, and select slightly taller creeping varieties with larger, broader leaves to build up to the bed’s focal point.

                Variegated sedum with yellow flowers
                Some sedums come in a variety of leaf shapes and colors. Photo by dmp2024

                Sedums come in a smattering of delightful color combinations from electric green to deep purple, red to teal; there’s a color of sedum for any design. Many keep their color year-round, and produce delightful bunches of tiny, colorful flowers between summer and fall, depending on the species or cultivar. The magenta, yellow, and lilac-colored petals attract pollinators in great numbers, especially between August and September here in Connecticut. The flowers persist until wintertime, when they dry out and turn brown as the plant goes dormant. While you may choose to remove the flowers before the winter snowfall, you can also leave them on the plant to add some color contrast in your garden as the brown stalks are surrounded with snow. Additionally, leaving the dried flowers on the plants may help creeping varieties spread, as the tiny seeds fall to the ground and germinate come springtime.

                While generally very tolerant of adverse growth conditions, sedums do best in sunny spots with well-drained soil. Luckily for those of us in Connecticut, many of our soils are well-drained. Sedums require little nutrients to thrive and typically are happy with just a spring application of an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Since sedums go dormant in the winter, no fertilizer should be applied later in the year. While other groundcover plants may need water in a drought, sedums, like most succulents, can go extended periods of time without supplemental irrigation. To top it off, their foliage is bitter, and thus unlikely to be damaged by grazing wildlife. The limited maintenance requirements of sedums make them attractive candidates for both lawn alternatives and green roofs alike.

                While resistant to consumption by mammalian wildlife, the juicy sedum leaves are sometimes appealing to hungry aphids and thrips. To manage aphids and other sap-sucking insects, you can simply spray sedums with water to knock off the pests – just be mindful of overwatering, as the sedums may rot. Alternatively, you can try attracting ladybugs and other aphid predators to your sedums by planting marigolds, dill and other predator attracting plants nearby. The ladybugs will partake in the pollen and snack on the sapsuckers. Avoid spraying insecticides, as they will kill both pests and beneficial insects, including pollinators. Leaving leaf litter in your garden over the winter gives a place for ladybugs to hibernate. Come spring, newly hatched ladybug larvae will be on the hunt for a meal, ready to vigilantly defend your sedums from attacking aphids.

                Your next groundcover selection can be both visually appealing and low maintenance. If you’re looking to update your groundcover, consider picking up some sedums at your local garden center in the spring or summer.

                If you have questions on growing sedums or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                Flock to Phlox

                By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Purple phlox flowers
                Purple phlox in bloom. Photo by dmp2024

                About now, many of our perennial gardens are looking a bit lackluster. Early summer bloomers have fizzled out and autumn charmers like asters and mums have yet to pop. Garden phlox (P. paniculata) to the rescue!

                Annual and perennial phlox comprised about 70 different species, many of which are native to North America. Their habitats range from woodlands to meadow and their growth habits from low and mounded to tall and upright. All have clusters of tubular flowers that are exceptionally attractive to hummingbirds and hummingbird moths along with bees and butterflies.

                There are an outstanding number of garden worthy cultivars. My favorite is ‘David’, a white, powdery mildew resistant variety that grows to about 4 feet with loads of slightly fragrant blooms. I have it planted in my white garden and this sturdy, upright plant has come back year after year with virtually no problems.

                UConn Plant Science & Landscape Architecture professor, Dr. Jessica Lubell-Brand noted phlox ‘Jeana’, the 2024 Perennial Plant Association’s Perennial Plant of the Year, is treasured for its long blooming period as well as its butterfly luring abilities. Plants can reach up to 5 feet in height and its more loose and wild appearance works well in cottage gardens featuring attractive pink flowers and decent powdery mildew resistance.

                Sometimes shorter varieties are a better fit and if that is the case, for your beds look to ‘Coral Crème Drop’, which according to Dr. Lubell are part of the Candy Store series. She raves about their vibrant coral blossoms with their August feel. Another top garden candidate in her book is ‘Glamour Girl’, also with hot coral blooms as well as good resistance to powdery mildew.

                A number of garden phlox sport distinctive eyes. ‘Bright Eyes’, as the name implies is a delicate pale pink with a bright crimson eye while ‘Laura’ is a mildew resistant, royal purple variety with a white eye. Both grow to about 3 feet in height.

                Many gardeners find these phlox indispensable for August into September color in the perennial garden. They are tough, colorful, vigorous plants that are hardy and relatively long-lived. They make excellent background plants for narrow borders and can bridge the gap between varied sized perennial plantings. Garden phlox come in a wide range of hot and cool colors ranging from white and light pinks, to purples, reds, oranges and magenta.

                For healthy, vigorous plants, they should be grown in full sun to part shade. Phlox enjoy a moderately fertile soil with a pH in the 6s. While established plants are fairly drought tolerant, larger and more numerous flower heads are produced when adequate moisture is supplied. They grow at a moderate rate so division every 3 to 4 years is usually sufficient.

                Both to encourage sizable blooms as well as to reduce the incidence of phlox’s number one nemesis, powdery mildew, Dr. Lubell recommends reducing the number of stalks early in the growing season to 6 to 8 per plant. This provides better air circulation to plants.

                Powdery mildew on phlox leaves
                Powdery mildew on phlox leaves. Photo by dmp2024

                Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that is more widespread during humid, wet summers. It typically does not kill plants, but they look awful with their leaves covered with what looks like white powder. Two options for dealing with this disease according to Dr. Lubell, are to select resistant phlox cultivars or to pre-emptively spray with a least toxic substance like potassium bicarbonate or your fungicide of choice. As stems die or get killed by frost, be sure to remove them from the garden and put in the trash, not the compost pile.

                Insects are not usually a problem but during dry, hot summers, spider mites may attack plants. Usually, a strong blast from the hose will knock them off. This may need to be repeated several times if dry weather persists.

                A key gardening practice when growing phlox is dead-heading, or removal of spent flower heads. Garden phlox produce a lot of seeds and if left to fall to the ground and germinate, vigorous plants will most likely produce blooms in that undesirable, muted magenta color. Often these seedlings crowd out the more desirable cultivars that were intentionally purchased.

                Not only are garden phlox cultivars pretty spectacular on their own but Dr. Lubell says they pair nicely with a variety of other perennials including lilies, yarrow, ballon flower, daylilies, bee balm as well as numerous annuals.

                If you have questions on garden phlox or on any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

                Current Landscape and Garden Conundrums

                By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Here at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center we have been getting questions about three pests that have been particularly widespread in the state. Whether in the landscape or the garden, there is always something going on, good or bad, and keeping up with pests or perceived pests can be challenging. The following reflect the most common inquiries we have had over the past few weeks.

                Asiatic garden beetles found in a spoonful of soil
                Photo by Pamm Cooper

                Asiatic garden beetles have been a real problem for many gardeners this year. An imported pest, these small, rusty brown, night-feeding pests can devastate plants overnight then disappear during the day. Leaving you to wonder what is eating your plants. Favorite plants include dahlias, basil, zinnias, sunflowers, peppers, eggplants and goldenrods. They will feed on over 100 herbaceous and woody plants. In the evening a plant can look great, and the next day it can be a skeleton of stems and leaf veins.

                Check damaged plants at night with a flashlight; if they are active, you should find them. During the day, dig an inch or so into the mulch and soil under damaged plants. These beetles will hide there during the day. Some people have reported finding as many as 300 in a night, then 50 each night, until they find few or none. New beetles will fly in daily, so be vigilant. Feeding by adults should end by the end of August. Crush them or put them in a container of soapy water until they succumb. Foliage can also be treated with an appropriate insect control product that will kill them after they feed on the leaves, Read and follow label instructions carefully for any control products if they are needed.

                Cicada killer holding a Cicada
                Photo by Pamm Cooper

                Cicada killers are rather mild-mannered (like Clark Kent) burrowing wasps that can cause alarm when they appear in the summer months. These wasps are very large, and females have the potential to sting, but have no aggressive nest-guarding instincts as do most other wasps or bees. What they have is size, and so become easily feared, especially when they burrow along sidewalks or other sandy areas close to pool, gardens and houses.

                Female cicada killers burrow a rather rectangular tunnel deep into soft soils into which they will eventually drag a cicada they have paralyzed. They lay one egg on the victim and the larva will feed on the carcass and pupate over the winter. They may be a chronic problem in areas of sandy soils and can be discouraged by disrupting tunneling activity by drenching areas where they are actively tunneling with water. They do not like moist soils, so this may be the only control method needed. Digging may disrupt root systems of plants if the tunnels are made at the base of plants, and watering the plants affected in this way may settle the soil back around the roots. Use of any pesticide would only be effective if wasps are still going in and out of tunnels and should be used only if necessary.

                The final pest we will cover are aphids. These piercing-sucking feeding type insects are small, but they can occur, seemingly overnight, in large numbers on plants. Aphids prefer newer growth like upper stems but are not so fussy later in the year when they feed on flower buds, old and new leaves and flower stems. Later in the summer some species may cover older stems right down to the ground. This is especially a problem on common and swamp milkweeds. Aphid feeding can cause wilting of plant parts above where heavy feeding occurs. Leaves can be mottled, then become distorted before turning brown.

                Red aphids on a stem
                Photo by Pamm Cooper

                Control of aphids relies on paying attention every day. Aphid females can give birth to live young during the summer, often fifty or more new aphids appear from each female per day. This is why control seems effective, then before you can say “my plants look really good now”, there are scads of aphids back where they were before. Aphids in high numbers, especially on sturdy stems, can be crushed by hand, sprayed with a suffocating type product like insecticidal soap, or knocked off by a strong jet of water. Keep in mind that the reproductive females have wings, and they will take flight at the first sign of trouble. That is why they can persist on plants.

                If aphids are a serious issue on plants, with no control measures apparently working, consider removing the affected plants and adding plants you know they so far have shunned as a food source. It may be a painful but necessary step.

                Be alert to what is happening in your own backyard, for it is certain something, good or bad, is going on. The sooner you discover the bad, the better. Know that: “On every stem, on every leaf, and at the root of everything that grew, was a professional specialist in the shape of grub, caterpillar, aphis, or other expert, whose business it was to devour that particular part. “~Oliver Wendell Holmes

                For questions about garden pests or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

                Slow-Going Gardens, Lawn Season, Stink Bugs & Other August News

                August Newsletter Cover

                July is for Lawn Season, Slow-Growing Gardens and Stink Bugs

                "A late summer garden has a tranquility found no other time of year."
                - William F. Longgood


                 

                Slow-Growing Gardens

                Green tomatoes on the stem
                Photo by H.Zidack

                Does your garden feel a little behind this year? Have you noticed your tomatoes seem to be taking forever and a day to turn red? You're not alone!

                A big contributor is the weather. When temperatures exceed 85 degrees, for example, tomatoes won't turn red until the temperature comes down again.

                Other vegetables will drop flowers and even pause their water uptake. Be careful not to overwater during these times - always check your soil! 

                Sometimes, pollinators will reduce their activity in excessive heat, further delaying the process. 

                We've had a handful of heatwaves this season that have contributed to the slowing of vegetable development.  Be patient! 

                Learn More About Heat Stress in Gardens


                Preparing for Lawn Season

                Slice Seeding a thinned lawn area
                Photo by Pamm Cooper

                  It's time to start thinking turf! The ideal time to seed your lawn is between August 15th and September 15th. You want to give your lawns enough time to establish new roots before the cold sets in. Finding the right kind of turf for your location can be a big help in establishing a robust lawn. Consider light, soil, and water conditions when selecting a turf species. 

                  Lawns should not be fertilized after July 1st. Continue to monitor for watering needs and only mow when there is adequate water available. 

                  If you have not done so, early August would be a good time to get a soil test to help prepare for any lawn establishments or renovations!

                  See our list of resources on establishment, rennovation and selection.

                  Lawn Renovation and Repair

                  Establishing a New Lawn

                  Alternative "Lawn" Options

                  Selecting an Appropriate Grass for Your Lawn

                  Understanding Grass Seed Labels

                   


                  Rare Stink Bug: Perillus excaptus

                  Perillus excaptus

                  Two Perillus excaptus stinkbugs, considered rare and unrecorded here in Connecticut, were discovered this year by one of our staff, Pamm Cooper. One of them was found in Vernon in a wildlife management area while on a Bug Week hunt with Jacqueline Crepeau, a master gardener intern. This predatory stinkbug is associated with certain goldenrods which have particular leaf beetles feeding on them. This Perillus spp. stink bug eats the larvae of the goldenrod beetle. According to a resource, P. excaptus is rare in all its locations and its life history is unknown.


                  Native Plant Highlight: Yellow Fringed Orchid

                  Yellow Fringed Orchid

                  The yellow fringed orchid Platanthera ciliaris is on the CT DEEP endangered plant list. This rare plant has a showy raceme of fringed lipped flowers that can be yellow to orange in color. It likes sunny, wet acidic soils including seeps, bogs, wet meadows and sometimes roadsides. It blooms here from early July - August. It is pollinated by certain bees, moths and butterflies, especially by the swallowtails.  

                  Learn More About Yellow Fringed Orchid


                  Vegetable Gardening Resources

                  During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

                  While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

                  If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

                  7/19/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

                  Read Previous Pest Messages

                  New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024


                  UConn Fruit Update

                  The UConn Fruit Program publishes a fruit update, very similar to the IPM Vegetable Pest Alert. If you keep fruit trees, this may be a valuable resource for you! If you ever need help understanding how to apply these principles to your own home garden, let us know!

                  Read the Latest UConn Fruit Update

                  New England Tree Fruit Management Guide


                  August 2024 Weather Outlook

                  A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns in August will bring us closer to harvest season!

                  Precipitation Outlook for August 2024  Temperature Outlook for August


                  Upcoming Events and Things to Do


                      Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                      Upcoming UConn Educational Events

                      3rd Annual IPM For Home Gardeners Seminar August 3rd

                      3rd Annual IPM for Home Gardeners Seminar
                      Saturday, August 3rd
                      9:00 AM - 1:00 PM
                      W.B. Young Building Room 100
                      1376 Storrs Rd
                      Storrs, CT 06268
                      Cost: Free

                      Register at: s.uconn.edu/ipm_2024

                      Event Speakers:
                      - Dr. Nick Goltz, Uconn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory - Plant Disease Updates

                      - Emily Leahy, Uconn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory - Plant Disease Trends in a Changing Climate

                      - Pamm Cooper, Uconn Home & Garden Education Center - Basic Pest Control: Know the Enemy

                      - Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center - Being an IPM Detective

                      - Dr. Srikanth Kodati, UConn Extension Pesticide Safety Specalist - Math of Pesticide Application & Reading Pesticide Labels

                      - Dawn Pettinelli, Uconn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory - Fertilizers 101

                      Register for the IPM Seminar


                      CT Invasive Plant Working Group
                      In-Person Symposium
                      October 29th, 2024
                      UConn Student Union
                      Storrs, CT

                      cipwg.uconn.edu


                      compost bin

                      2024 UConn Master Composter Program

                      Interested in learning more about composting and sharing your knowledge with others? UConn will be holding its Master Composter program this September. The Master Composter program is a train the trainer program where participants will learn about the various aspects of composted and then donate a minimum of 20 hours volunteer time engaging in outreach projects that may include activities such as tabling at events, giving presentations or working with schools or community gardens. When outreach goals have been met, participants will be certified as Master Composters and receive a certificate of completion. There is a registration fee.

                      The 2024 program will be a hybrid program with two in-person Saturday sessions, September 14 & 28 along with two evening online sessions, September 19 & 27 via WebEx. The two Saturday classes will be held at the Middlesex County Extension Center, 1066 Saybrook Rd, Haddam, CT 06438. It is anticipated that two field trips will be offered this fall, also on weekends

                      If interested, please email ladybug@uconn.edu or call (877) 486-6271 and you will be notified when the program is finalized and registration is open!

                      Feed The Earth……Compost!

                       


                      August Gardening Tips

                          • Water plants deeply once or twice a week depending on the heat and humidity.
                          • Remove old plants that have stopped producing to eliminate a shelter for insects and disease organisms. Replant sites with chard, quick maturing beans or cucumbers, leafy greens etc.
                          • Keep anBlack rot on grapes eye out for black rot on grapes. Black rot results in mummified grapes- Infected pruned tissues and mummified berries should be removed before new growth begins in the spring. Sanitation is a key to preventing this disease of grapes. 
                          • To reduce the number of pests on your fruit trees for the coming year practice good sanitation by removing and destroying all fallen fruit. Do not compost it.
                          • Reseeding the lawn in late August gives the new grass two growing periods (fall and spring) before the heat of summer. Be sure to keep the seed moist until germination.
                          • Noticing plants that wilt during the day and recover at night in spite of adequate water in the soil can be a sign of verticillium wilt. Watch tomato, pepper and eggplant closely for this type of flagging. 
                          • Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.
                          • August is a great time to order peony roots and spring bulbs for September planting. 
                          • Fertilize container plantings and hanging baskets if they look yellow with a ½ strength dose of a balanced liquid fertilizer
                          • The best time to gather herbs and flowers for drying and preserving is during the midmorning hours, just after the dew has dried but before the sun causes them to wilt. 

                          More August Gardening Tips


                          This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                          Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

                           

                          What’s Eating My Brassicas?

                          By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                          Broccoli, cabbage, kale and other members of the brassica family are tasty and so good for you but its not just us who find them delectable. Brassicas have a number of insect pests but probably several caterpillar species do the most damage.

                          A close up of caterpillar damage on broccoli leaves.
                          Caterpillar damage on broccoli. Photo by dmp2024

                          When checking plants, look for holes in the leaves. A few irregular holes may soon become a skeletonized leaf with only the midrib left if control measures are not taken. These caterpillars can quickly devour plants.

                          Two of the most common pests are the imported cabbageworm and the cross striped cabbage worm. According to Dr. Shuresh Ghimire, UConn Vegetable Extension Specialist, imported cabbageworm is the offspring of the cabbage butterfly, a butterfly with white wings with 1-2 round black spots on the forewing. Eggs, laid singly on leaves, are light green or yellow and slightly elongated. Three to 5 days later, the eggs hatch. The lime green velvety caterpillars feed for 2 to 3 weeks.

                          Dr. Ghimire noted that imported cabbage worm feeding and resting mostly occur on the underside of leaves. Be sure to check both the tops and bottoms of leaves. Damage includes round or ragged feeding holes and deposits of wet, green or brownish frass. There can be 4 to 5 generations each year. This pest overwinters as a pupae close to host plants.

                          Cross stripped cabbage worm
                          Cross striped caterpillar. Photo by dmp2024

                          The cross-striped cabbageworm used to be a southern pest but no longer. The adult moths fly at night so are seldom seen. Cross-striped cabbageworms are most abundant on late-season plantings says Dr. Ghimire. Unlike the other major caterpillar pests, such as cabbageworm and diamondback moth, the cross-striped cabbageworm lays its eggs in batches (3-25) rather than singly, so caterpillars emerge in clusters. Egg batches are yellow, flattened, overlapping like fish scales, and attached to the lower leaf surfaces.

                          The distinctive-looking caterpillars are bluish gray on top with green on their undersides, a yellow stripe on each side with a row of numerous black bands across the back. Clusters of these caterpillars are voracious feeders and plants infested with cross-striped cabbageworm larvae are often completely skeletonized, while adjacent plants may be left undamaged. There are 2 or 3 generations per year.

                          Two other caterpillar pests of brassicas are the diamondback moth and the cabbage looper. Eggs of these two pests are laid singly and most years they do not cause considerable damage to home vegetable gardens.

                          There are several strategies to control these caterpillars on broccoli plants. If you have just a few plants, check them every few days looking at both sides of the leaves and either squish any caterpillars you find or drop them into a can of soapy water.

                          A close-up of a leaf with chewing damage
                          Caterpillar damage on brassica leaves. Photo by dmp2024

                          Rotating your plantings and interplanting with flowers may confuse pests. Dr. Ghimire suggests planting flowers to attract natural enemies, like Braconid wasps, which lay eggs on soft-bodied caterpillars such as cabbage worms. The larvae feed inside the live caterpillars, weakening or killing them. Some plants known to attract pest predators include dill, parsley, hyssop and mints.

                          Since brassicas do not need to be pollinated, they can be covered with netting or row covers to exclude insect pests. The holes in the netting should be one-quarter inch. Hoops can be used to hold up the barrier or one can make wooden or PVC cages for a custom fit. Be sure to tuck or pin the edges to the soil so pests can’t crawl under.

                          Finally, if the caterpillar infestation becomes too extensive, Dr. Ghimire recommends Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which is a biological control for Lepidoptera species of moths and butterflies. Bt is a bacterium that when sprayed on your plants and consumed by the caterpillar enters the insect’s gut and causes it to die. While it is effective for controlling these pests, it is harmless to humans and other animal species. Limit its use to brassicas to prevent it from affecting desirable caterpillars.

                          As with all garden pests, the key to healthy plants is regular monitoring and putting control measures into practice when pests are first noticed. For questions on brassica pests or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

                          Coleus: A Victorian Dream

                          By Abigayle Ward, UConn Dept. of Plant Science & LA Graduate Student

                          Red coleus in the middle of a flower garden
                          A bed of red coleus surrounded by magenta celosias, and baby pink and purple petunias, complete with a walking path dividing the bed in two. This circular bed is located at the end of Mansfield Road within the University of Connecticut Storrs campus.

                          Seen anywhere from great-grandma’s ornamental garden to your neighbor’s hanging basket, coleus are the colorful, velvet-textured leafy cousins of oregano and deadnettle. Native to tropical regions of Africa, Asia, and Oceania, it is thought that Dutch botanists introduced the fascinating foliage to Victorian England in the mid 1800s. Coleus were readily welcomed into homes as parlor plants and into ornamental gardens. They were especially coveted in so-called “carpet bedding” gardens, where bedding plants of equal height are used to create colorful designs such that they appear like “carpets” when viewed from above. Other than coleus, the Victorians enjoyed using colorful flowers such as petunias, asters, and zinnias as carpet bedding. Carpet bedding is still popular today; we have at least one such garden featuring coleus and petunias on display at the University of Connecticut Storrs campus. To design a carpet bedding garden, try combining simple shapes and lines to make symmetric, harmonious patterns. Use green vegetation, such as sedums, or even a green cultivar of coleus, to contrast with the bright colors of flowers and the mulch or soil below.

                          For those of us lacking yard space comparable to an English country house, a large carpet bed garden might be impractical. Instead, coleus can be planted alongside other flowers for a splash of color in a flower bed against a house or fence. Coleus are the perfect complement to the colorful clapboard siding characteristic of houses in New England – draw attention to the colors of both by putting reds with greens and yellows with purples. If coleus are planted directly into the ground, slugs are one major pest to look out for. In particularly wet summers, such as those in recent years, slug populations can devour entire coleus plants.

                          To avoid slugs, container gardens may be a wise option. Sitting above the ground and out of field soil, slugs will have more difficulty reaching the tasty, tender leaves. For those with outdoor space around their apartments, container gardens are also generally a renter-friendly option. Coleus grow well in window boxes and other small containers, and they can help add a warm, friendly atmosphere to the entrance of any home. Most cultivars of coleus available on the market today are tolerant of both shaded and sunny conditions, and thus are well-suited to either covered or open porches. In containers, the main pests to look for are thrips, mealybugs, and aphids. These three pests can cause discoloration in leaves, such as silvery/gold, yellow, or black spots. Outside where predators of these pests thrive, infestations should not progress to the point of killing entire plants, but affected foliage may be unsightly. While systemic insecticides may help keep these types of pests off coleus, they also can kill bees. Avoid applying systemic insecticides to coleus outdoors whenever possible. Try moderately forceful sprays with water instead, insecticidal soap or other least toxic controls.

                          The Victorians also kept coleus as houseplants, and so can you. In plant hardiness zones 6a-7b in Connecticut, coleus are very tender annuals. They will grow prolifically when temperatures are above 60°F, and will experience cold injury if temperatures fall below 50°F. When temperatures plunge below 40-50°F and overnight frost becomes a possibility, leaves will start to blacken and die. At the end of the growing season before the first frost, consider planting stem cuttings in pots and bringing them indoors for colorful, year-round foliage. Coleus as houseplants will do best in north-facing or east-facing windows. Avoid placing them in windows where they experience too much direct sunlight for too long during the day. If windows are unavailable, coleus also grow decently under grow lights.

                          No matter where they are grown, the main attraction of coleus is its brilliant foliage. Plants grown in containers may benefit from occasional nitrogen additions to keep them growing all season long. Like others in the mint family, coleus grow flower spikes when stressed or when the plant is near the end of its life cycle. While the flowers on the spikes are not very attractive from an aesthetic standpoint, bees, hummingbirds, and other pollinators flock to them. While the spikes can be pruned off if they appear too early in the growing season to encourage further vegetative growth, consider leaving the late-season spikes on, so that bees can collect nectar to sustain their hives over the winter.

                          While the selection of coleus cultivars were limited in Victorian England, decades of horticultural breeding efforts have given us access to over 1,000 varieties today, including sun-tolerant cultivars, with endless colors, leaf shapes, sizes, and growth habits. Consider adding this versatile Victorian dream to your home garden for splashes of colorful summer foliage.

                          If you have questions on coleus or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.