Newspaper Articles

Do Home Gardens Need Mycorrhizal Inoculants?

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By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab 

Walk into a garden center, and you may find bags, tubs, and packets of “mycorrhizal inoculants” shelved beside fertilizers and transplants. Their labels promise stronger roots, better yields, improved drought tolerance, and healthier plants. 

The science behind mycorrhizae is real. The more practical question is whether the product on the shelf can deliver those benefits and whether your garden needs it at all. 

What mycorrhizae actually are 

Mycorrhizae are partnerships between plant roots and certain soil fungi. The fungi extend fine threads called hyphae into the surrounding soil, increasing the area from which plants can absorb water and nutrients. In return, the plants provide sugars produced through photosynthesis. These ancient partnerships play an important role in the growth of many plant species. 

Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi, or AMF, are the most common type of mycorrhizal fungi associated with lawns, vegetables, and many ornamentals and may be labeled “endomycorrhizae.” Tomatoes, peppers, corn, squash, beans, grasses, and many flowers form these partnerships. Other plants rely on different mycorrhizal fungi. Oaks, birches, hickories, and many conifers commonly associate with ectomycorrhizae, while blueberries and rhododendrons form ericoid mycorrhizae. The inoculant must therefore be compatible with the plant. 

What may already be in your soil 

In many established garden beds, lawns, meadows, and landscapes, resident mycorrhizal fungi are already present. Their abundance and diversity depend on vegetation, disturbance history, fertilizer use and soil conditions. Adding a commercial fungus to an established soil community does not necessarily improve a partnership that is already functioning. The introduced fungi must still be alive, compatible with the plant, and able to compete with the organisms already there. 

Recent research gives gardeners good reason to be cautious. A meta-analysis published in the journal New Phytologist found that roughly 80% of commercial inoculant treatments resulted in minimal or no mycorrhizal root colonization. A separate 2025 evaluation from the University of Zürich of sixteen commercial products found that none of the seven products marketed for home gardening successfully established mycorrhizal symbiosis under controlled conditions. 

There are several possible reasons. Mycorrhizal fungi are living organisms and may lose viability during storage. Fungal species also differ in their ability to associate with particular plants and perform under different soil conditions. Independent quality standards and verification remain limited, making it difficult for consumers to know how many viable fungal propagules remain in a product by the time it reaches the garden. 

When inoculation may help 

Inoculation is most plausible where suitable fungi are scarce or absent, such as in some severely disturbed construction soils, degraded sites, or soilless and pasteurized growing media used for containers and greenhouse transplants. Even then, the plant must be capable of forming the partnership, and the product must contain viable fungi that are compatible with that plant. 

Tree and shrub plantings require extra caution. Many woody species rely mainly on ectomycorrhizal or ericoid fungi rather than AMF, so a generic product labeled “mycorrhizae” may contain the wrong organisms for the plant. Read the label carefully and look for the fungal type and species included, not just the word “mycorrhizae.” 

Why established gardens often see little benefit 

For an established Connecticut vegetable garden or perennial bed, several factors work against a bagged inoculant paying off. 

First, the soil may already contain a functioning fungal community. Introduced strains often struggle to establish in soils with diverse resident organisms. When they do establish, they may persist, decline, or alter the existing community, so their effects are not automatically beneficial. 

Second, high phosphorus commonly reduces AMF colonization and the plant’s reliance on the partnership. Many long-established vegetable gardens test high in phosphorus after years of compost, manure, or fertilizer applications. A soil test is especially useful before buying an inoculant or adding more phosphorus. 

Third, some common crops generally do not form functional mycorrhizal associations. These include broccoli, cabbage, kale, cauliflower, mustard, and radish. Beets, chard, and spinach are also generally considered non-hosts. Applying a mycorrhizal inoculant to a bed planted mainly with these crops is unlikely to provide a meaningful benefit. 

Supporting beneficial fungi 

For most established Connecticut gardens, lawns, and landscapes, mycorrhizal inoculants may not be necessary because beneficial fungi are often already present. They may be more useful in highly disturbed soils or growing media where compatible fungi are scarce. 

Good soil management can help support the fungi already in the soil. Avoid unnecessary tillage, which can break fungal hyphae, and keep living roots in the ground when practical through perennial plantings or compatible cover crops such as annual ryegrass and crimson clover. Test the soil before adding phosphorus, since high phosphorus can reduce the plant’s reliance on mycorrhizae. 

Before buying an inoculant, consider whether improving soil conditions and supporting the existing fungal community may be the better first step. 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 9, 2026

It’s Not the Heat, It’s the Humidity

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By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty 

Close-up of jewel orchids with dark, velvety leaves and contrasting pink and white veining.
Two Jewel Orchids, Macodes petola, bottom left, and Ludisia discolor, right. It is hard to capture the glowing effect of the leaf lines on camera (photo by M. Lisy).

How many times have we all heard that phrase?  Humans generally do not like super humid weather, but many plants love it.  Humidity may even change how a plant grows.  Humidity loving plants actually NEED high humidity to grow, and they generally are not able to adapt to lower humidity.  Symptoms of low humidity in plants can be leaf drop, drying leaf edges, and in some cases, death.  However, with a little special attention and care, a plant enthusiast can add some very unique plants to their collection.   

The summer is the easiest time to grow high humidity plants, unless an air conditioner is used.  Moving the plants outside to a porch is a great way to satisfy humidity needs.  The winter time is the most challenging as the air is cold and dry due to the weather and our heating systems.  There are some easy ways to increase humidity in a home, however.  The first is to add a humidifier, but I have found these end up causing mold issues sooner or later.  A pebble tray or some other kind of tray of water set under the plants, but not touching the pot/soil, can do a fairly good job of increasing humidity.  It will need to have water added once or twice a day.  My favorite way of increasing humidity is by grouping a bunch of plants all together in one area.  They all seem to help each other out by increasing humidity in that spot as they transpire.  A fish tank or bowl of water can also increase the humidity in the room substantially.  A spray bottle can be used to temporarily increase humidity, but the effects are too short-lived to be worthwhile.  Placing a glass or plastic dome over a plant or a small terrarium/plant cabinet is a great way to increase the humidity permanently.  Another idea is to place these plants in a humid bathroom environment where showers are taken.  There are a number of really unique plants that will make for a fascinating collection if the extra humidity puzzle can be solved.    

The first two plants that I absolutely love are collectively called Jewel Orchids.  I have not found them to be too difficult to grow, but they do not tolerate drying out yet cannot sit in water.  I place them on my nightstand next to and underneath some other more “normal” plants.  The Jewel Orchid, Ludisia discolor, is an unusual plant has really dark maroon or brown leaves with reflective pink lines.  The Lightning Jewel Orchid, Macodes petola, has dark green leaves with reflective yellow lines, living up to its namesake. 

Many vining plants like high humidity too.  Any of the common ones like Pothos (Epipremnum sp.), Philodendron, Scindapsus, and Monstera tolerate our normal home humidity well, but will grow much larger leaves when exposed to beneficial high humidity.  A more difficult plant is Cissus discolor, and words cannot fully describe its beauty.  The leaves have a pattern of green, marron, pink, and white in them that is unbelievably gorgeous.  This one is so difficult to overwinter that many times I end up taking cuttings of the vines and putting them under a dome.  I mist inside the dome frequently and in the spring, I start over by potting the cuttings up in a hanging basket.  For a blooming vine, try the bleeding heart vine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, with its white and red flowers. 

 The genus Labisia has some mind-blowing, incredible colors and patterns.  These plants are expensive, but worth a try.  Anthurium, Alocasia, and Syngonium generally have arrow or heart shaped leaves.  They have some very unique patterns and shapes, but they do struggle and die if the humidity drops.  The prices are all over and just depend on the variety.  Other foliage plants include Begonia rex with all sorts of colors and patterns or Fittonia with red, pink, or white stripes on green leaves.  Why not try taking the houseplant hobby to the next level by adding some humidity loving plants?     

The UConn Home Garden Education Office  at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension office at extension.uconn.edu/locations.    

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 1, 2026

Tree Burls

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By: Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Large burl protruding from the trunk of an old sugar maple tree in a landscaped yard beside a white house. A person stands nearby for scale, highlighting the burl’s unusually large size and rough, moss-covered bark.
Photo by Pamm Cooper

Burls are sound, hard, woody swellings or protrusions that form on the trunks, branches, or roots of trees. They often appear as rounded or ridged masses with normal bark tissue. Burls are benign and are the result of a response in growth to outside stresses. The normal bark texture of the tree will be on the exterior surface of the burl. 

The exact cause of burl formation is a mystery, but these growths are formed by abnormal cell proliferation by the xylem. This growth can be triggered by stress factors such as environmental injury, insect feeding damage, or infections from fungal or bacterial pathogens. Some are thought to be the result of genetic factors that trigger abnormal growth without outside influences. Most burls are not causes of concern to the health of otherwise normally growing trees. Removal of burls from trees is not recommended as it will cause more harm than if the burl remains on the tree.  

Some tree species seem to have more burls than others. In our area oaks, maples, willows, cherry and elms have more of a tendency to form burls than other tree species. Sometimes small groups of the same tree species in a tight area may all have burls. Whether the cause is environmental, genetic or both would require a good amount of research. Even then, the root cause may be impossible to discover. 

Recently, a friend showed me a tree with one of the largest burls I have seen. This tree was located about a mile into the woods and was a good distance from the trail, but easily visible. It was almost five feet high and went almost completely around the trunk of the mature tree it was growing on. 

Because of the nature of unique formation and structure of burls, grain formation is unusual, creating swirling patterns that can be very beautiful. A bird’s eye pattern is the result of an aborted adventitious bud. This makes wood galls a highly prized find by woodworkers, who use the wood especially for veneers and bowls.   

There are woody galls caused by gall- forming mites, wasps or by fungal pathogens that are sometimes mistaken for burls. These include the black knot galls that form on infected black cherry and other Prunus species and are caused by a fungal pathogen, as well as horned galls on oaks that result from feeding by gall wasps. These types of growths can be harmful to the host tree.  

To tell if an abnormal growth on a tree is a burl or a gall, compare the outer surface and texture of the growth. Burls have smooth, rounded surfaces that are fully covered in bark. The tissue is solid wood and will have intricate, swirling grain patterns.  Galls typically have a rough texture to their surface, somewhat tumor-like and with vertical or horizontal ridges. The interior is not solid wood, but instead may be papery, pulpy or otherwise somewhat softer than the wood and is usually discolored. If cut open, there may be a wasp larva or a mite inside the gall. While both a gall and a burl result from excessive cell division, the causes are very different. 

If you want to learn more, a good article on tree burls can be found on this link from the University of New Hampshire written by forestry field specialist Greg Jordan.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 25, 2026

Something Rotten in Tomato Land?

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By: Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

With the lazy, hazy days of summer in full swing, your vegetable garden is likely in full production mode. Tomatoes should be producing lots of blossoms by now with the earlier varieties offering ripening fruit. While it is true that tomatoes can be challenging to grow in New England, being susceptible to several diseases as well as some abiotic disorders, there are few summer pleasures greater than taking that bite of the first, ripe, sun-kissed tomato. That’s most likely the reason that 86% of food gardeners, according to the National Gardening Association, chose to grow them.  

Ripe red tomatoes with sunken in black spots at the bottomBetween summer heat, sporadic rainfall, vacations and inconsistent watering, some of us are noticing black sunken patches on the blossom end (bottoms) of our ripening fruit. This is an abiotic or physiological disorder known as blossom end rot. It starts out with a small water-soaked area that enlarges and darkens as the tomato tries to ripen. The affected tissue has a dark, leathery appearance and may be colonized by a bacteria giving it a black color.  

The cause of this disorder is lack of calcium. Most of us know that people require calcium for strong bones and healthy teeth. Plants also have calcium requirements that must be met for good growth and establishment. It is needed for the proper growth and functioning of shoot and root tips and is an integral part of cell walls. As your tomatoes grow in size, more cells with more cell walls are needed. 

Plants take up the calcium they need through their roots. Nutrients like calcium, potassium and others are dissolved in the water that is in the soil. When a plant loses moisture on a hot day through the process of transpiration, the roots take up water to replace that loss and keep the plant turgid. The soil water contains nutrients the plants need. Anything that restricts the plant roots’ ability to take up water also reduces the amount of nutrients a plant receives.  

Blossom end rot is usually caused by one of two factors. Either there is not enough calcium in the soil or there is not enough water in the soil for the calcium to be able to move into the plant. Sometimes, because of the high humidity, factor number three comes into play. Plants are not transpiring that much because of the high humidity. Since little water is being lost through the leaves, little water (containing calcium and other nutrients as well) is being absorbed by the roots. So even if your soil is loaded with calcium, and your garden is irrigated, plants may not able to transport enough calcium from the soil water into their internal structures.  

If blossom end rot is noticed, first take a soil sample and send it to a soil testing laboratory (s.uconn.edu/soil-lab) to determine the soil pH and calcium levels. Often if calcium levels in the soil are too low, plants would also be exhibiting signs of deficiency including stunted growth, curling of leaves and perhaps spotting or scorching on leaves. Follow any recommendations for limestone additions if the pH or calcium levels are too low.  

Next, evaluate your watering techniques. Often this disorder occurs when succulent, vigorously growing plants are subjected to drought conditions. It is best to water deeply and less often than to water lightly on a daily basis. After watering, dig a small hole to check if the top 6 inches or so of soil are moistened. Adjust your watering schedule accordingly and if at all possible, just apply water to the base of the plant and avoid getting the foliage wet to discourage diseases. There isn’t much one can do to lower the humidity and increase plant transpiration rates except hope for a bout of dry weather.  

To thwart blossom end rot, some gardeners are purchasing blossom set sprays containing calcium to apply to their plants’ foliage. Others are fertilizing and spraying the plant’s foliage with calcium chloride, as directed on the package or making up a calcium solution by mixing gypsum or limestone with water and letting it sit overnight. After 24 hours or so, it can be used to drench the plants and soil. Gypsum can also be applied around the plants at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet and carefully scratched into the soil. Take care not to injure your tomato plant’s roots and water afterwards. Another option is to search out water soluble fertilizers that contain calcium and can also be used as a foliar spray and apply them to the plant’s leaves. 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension office at extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 19, 2026

Water your CT Garden with Confidence

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By: Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Watering is an essential skill for gardeners that is often overlooked. “How often should I water and how much?” is a frequent question with new gardens or when establishing new plants.  

There’s no magic formula for watering your plants. The soil texture, local climate, and even the metabolism of your plants can affect how often water needs to be replenished. So how do we know what to do? Over time, experienced gardeners form a sense of their soil and their plant’s needs, and perfect their watering practices.   

Pepper plant growing in a garden bed with a drip irrigation hose nearby.What plants really need 

Most established garden plants require about 1 inch of water per week from rainfall and irrigation combined. When mother nature doesn’t provide this through rainfall, we can supplement by adding about 0.62 gallons of water per square foot in a garden bed.  However, actual needs vary with soil type, weather conditions, plant species, and stage of growth.   

Knowing your soil texture can help you anticipate what your watering schedule might look like. Sandy soils are known for rapid drainage, which often means they require more frequent watering. Clay soils, on the other hand, hold water for longer periods and generally need less frequent irrigation. Plants also have preferences for different soil types, many of which are related to water availability and drainage. Choosing the right plant for the right site can help ensure it receives adequate moisture. 

A plant's water demand may vary depending on its stage of growth. For example, we tend to encourage additional support for plants that are fruiting/flowering, or plants that have just recently been transplanted. Keep a close eye on these plants and their water needs during stressful periods. Newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials need this additional monitoring and support through their first year of establishment in the landscape. You may find that you’re watering them more frequently during this time. This can be totally normal.  

Sometimes, soil can appear dark even when it hasn’t been watered, so don’t rely on appearances alone.  Your hands are one of the most reliable tools for checking soil moisture. Dig a few inches below the surface and feel the soil. If it feels cool and slightly moist, watering can likely wait. If it feels dry and crumbly, it's time to water. If the soil feels saturated or releases water when squeezed, allow it to dry somewhat before watering again. 

Water Deeply 

Giving your plants a good soak does more than just help them in the short term. Deep watering provides a slow, thorough soak that reaches the plant’s root zone rather than just the soil surface. This encourages deeper root growth and can improve drought tolerance, often allowing for less frequent watering. For most vegetables and perennials, water should reach at least 6–12 inches into the soil. Trees and shrubs may benefit from moisture penetrating even deeper into the root zone. 

Apply water slowly at the dripline so it soaks in without pooling or running off. Use a soaker hose, or a regular hose on a slow trickle over the root zone of your plants. Avoid high-flow sprinklers, since they may cause runoff. Keep in mind that water movement depends on soil type.  

Check the soil every so often to ensure that water is penetrating deep enough and set a timer for yourself. After a few watering cycles, you will become familiar with the timing and flow rate for your specific soil and plants. 

Stay Consistent 

Don’t automatically change your watering habits just because the temperature changes.  Hot weather can increase water demand, but it is essential to always check the soil first. During periods of heat and drought stress, plants can close their stomata and reduce water use as a survival mechanism. While this may slow water uptake, plants still need adequate soil moisture. Overwatering, however, may not be helpful. Instead, roots can sit in saturated soil and develop diseases like root rot. Always check the top few inches of soil to ensure water is needed. 

When weather starts to cool off in the fall, continue your watering practices. By watering until the ground freezes, you help your plants, survive the winter. The effects of winter burn can be reduced when evergreens enter the winter properly hydrated.  

Watering is an essential task in the garden year-round. It is important to know your plants, your soil, and the climate you are growing in to ensure you are giving your plants enough hydration. By watering only when needed, watering deeply, and continuing these practices well into the fall, you will be sure to have healthy plants year round! 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 11, 2026

What’s Going Down with Your CT Basil This Summer?

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By: N. Raymond and Emily Leahy, UConn Home Garden Education Office

What's Going Down with Your CT Basil This Summer?
By: N. Raymond and Emily Leahy, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Basil growth is ramping up as we enter July. As these tasty plants begin to flourish, it’s important to keep an eye out for a pathogen known as downy mildew. Basil downy mildew (Peronospora belbahrii) severely impacts numerous varieties of basil (Ocimum spp.)  worldwide. The disease, caused by an oomycete pathogen, is especially prevalent in sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum). Oomycetes, also known as water molds, behave similarly to fungi yet are equipped with different structures and means of infecting plant material. Using water or water-based secretions, their reproductive cells (known as zoospores) adhere to the surfaces of plant tissue to inoculate their hosts.  

Leaves suffering from basil downy mildew exhibit yellow/pale discoloration (chlorosis) and browning on their upper surfaces. Chlorotic lesions expand and become necrotic, with leaves eventually falling prematurely. Small sac-like structures develop on the underside of leaves and are visible as purple-gray dots. These are called sporangia, which are specialized structures that can form, store, and release spores. Basil downy mildew prefers moist and humid conditions that encourage the growth and development of the pathogen.  

P. belbahrii must occupy a living host to survive and reproduce, making it an obligate parasite. The pathogen can only overwinter in warm environments where hosts will not freeze during cold temperatures. Sporangia germinate on hosts under high humidity and moderate temperatures. The germ tube of P. belbahrii enters basil leaves through microscopic openings called stomata where it can grow, expanding what is known as its hyphae network (filamentous growth structures of fungi and oomycetes) between plant cells. As the disease progresses, P. belbahrii will colonize the leaves, stems, and seeds of its host. Symptoms are often visible within 5-10 days of inoculation. However, infected hosts may also appear asymptomatic. Typically, sporulation of P. belbahrii occurs at night in conjunction with moist and humid conditions. Sporangiophores break through stomata on the underside of leaves, from which sporangia are released and travel to inoculate new leaves. Extended periods of leaf wetness, accompanied by moderate temperatures and high humidity, encourages prolific growth of P. belbahrii.  

Basil downy mildew can be controlled through cultural and chemical methods. Since P.  belbahrii thrives in moist conditions, it is crucial to maintain proper air circulation and space between plants. This can be achieved by planting at appropriate distances when you start your garden, or by thinning your plants later in the growing season. Planting seeds that are certified free of the pathogen minimizes the potential for disease as well. Utilizing drip irrigation or similar efficient watering systems can decrease standing moisture on and around basil plants. Avoid overhead watering or sprinkler systems. Fungicides are labeled for effective use against this pathogen, if chemical control is deemed necessary. Some cultivars with resistance to basil downy mildew are included in the table below.  

Type  Variety 
 

 

 

 

Sweet 

 Amazel 

Everleaf 

Evi 

Eleonora 

Prospera 

Prospera Active 

Rutgers Devotion 

Rutgers Obsession 

Rutgers Passion 

Rutgers Thunderstruck 
Purple  Red Rubin 

Prospera Red 
Scented  Sweet Dani (lemon) 

Lime Basil 

Our colleagues at Cornell have performed quite a bit of basil downy mildew research, which can be accessed at https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/basil-downy-mildew/. Visit this link to learn more. 

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 4, 2026

Farming is Taking Flight: Drone Technology in CT

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By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture 

Drone flying in a blue sky with scattered white clouds above a grassy field and a line of trees in the background.
Photo by Nora Doonan

Agricultural drones are becoming more common in Connecticut and can support a wide range of farming activities. They can be used for tasks such as crop scouting and monitoring, field mapping, broadcasting seed, applying fertilizers, and precision pesticide application, where permitted and when conducted by properly licensed operators. One promising capability is the use of drones to seed cover crops.   

Cover crops are plants grown to protect the soil and improve soil conditions, typically during periods where the soil would otherwise be bare, such as between cash crop growing seasons. They provide many environmental and agricultural benefits, including reducing soil erosion, capturing excess nutrients, suppressing weed growth, storing carbon in the soil, providing an additional source of livestock forage, and improving overall soil health. Planting cover crops early in the fall allows them more time to establish and grow, leading to greater ground cover and biomass production. These improvements help to maximize their benefits to the soil. In contrast, a late planting date, especially after the first fall frost, can reduce cover crop establishment, winter survival, and biomass production. Cover crops in silage corn systems are typically seeded after corn harvest using seed drills or other land-based equipment. However, in New England, silage corn harvest can extend to late October due to labor constraints, unfavorable soil conditions, and weather variability, which can substantially narrow the window for early cover crop establishment using these conventional drill-seeding methods. 

Drones offer a potential alternative cover crop seeding method by enabling interseeding of cover crops, the practice of planting one crop into another crop before harvest. For example, a farmer could use a drone to broadcast cover crop seed in early fall over standing corn while it is still growing, allowing for several additional weeks of fall growth. This approach may extend the cover crop growing season without disrupting cash crop harvest. Drones can also access fields when wet soil conditions prevent ground equipment from operating after cash crop harvest, reducing compaction, and helping farmers take advantage of narrow planting windows.  

Successful cover crop establishment using drones also depends on several other factors, including seed size, soil moisture conditions, and available sunlight beneath the corn canopy. Careful consideration of cover crop species selection and drone seeding timing will improve drone seeding success. Further research is needed to better understand how to optimize drone-based cover crop seeding across a range of field conditions and management practices.  

While other broadcast seeding methods exist, they are often difficult to use or inaccessible in Connecticut field conditions, such as high-clearance tractor-mounted spreaders, fixed-wing aircrafts, and helicopters. Farmers indicate that it is difficult to seed cover crops into standing corn utilizing these other broadcast methods since Connecticut farmers often do not have high-clearance seeding equipment or the minimum required acreage for seeding by fixed-wing and rotary aircrafts. Farmers in Connecticut can avoid these difficulties with drone technologies, which are better suited for small field sizes.  

As this technology continues to advance and adoption grows, it may play an important role in supporting sustainable farming and soil health across the state.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

This article was published in the Hartford Courant June 28, 2026

If Scindapsus is Wrong, I Don’t Want to Be Right 

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By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

Hanging silver satin pothos plant with trailing, heart-shaped green leaves marbled with light gray, suspended from a plastic hook against a plain background.
Scindapsus pictus ‘Silver Satin,’ Photo by M. Lisy.

It really is not sinful to like Scindapsus.  In fact, it can be very enjoyable to add some to your plant collection.  These are a lesser-known houseplant, but are rapidly becoming very popular.  They are very similar to the vining Philodendrons, and are most often confused with Pothos (Epipremnum).  All of these aforementioned plants belong to the Araceae family.  The Scindapsus come from Southeast Asia, Philodendrons from Central/South America, and Pothos from the Tropical Pacific. Although they come from different parts of the world, they all live in rainforest habitats, and therefore will do well when grown together.  The thing that most stands out about the Scindapsus species are the unique colors.  They are generally a gray or green color.  Now that base color has, to more or less degree, some silver colors overlaid, except for some that don’t have any additional color at all.   

 The nicest part of Scindapsus is that they have very similar care to their look-a-like cousins.  They generally like to have the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings.  The soil should be that used for aroids.  If using a commercial houseplant soil, add some extra perlite and/or orchid bark to lighten it up a bit.  The growth habit could be up a moss pole, or in a hanging basket.  I prefer the hanging basket on these as I really like the look of the long vines hanging over the edge of the pot.   

 They are fairly easy to propagate.  Take a cutting between the nodes – the place where the leaves grow out from.  Trim this and put it in soil.  Keep this in a moist and humid environment.  Before long, there will be new growth tips emerging from the node.  At that point, start adding some fertilizer to really kick things into gear.  These plants adapt well to growing in our typical home environment, but they do not like it super dry.  They tend to grow larger leaves in more humid environments, so think about putting one in the bathroom near the shower.    

 There are some fabulous new varieties of these plants, but because they are not as common yet therefore somewhat tricky to find.  It seems there are new varieties coming to market more frequently now.  Many of them are variations on the amount of silver in the leaves, or the pattern the silver coloration makes.  There are two main species regularly offered so far in the trade.  Scindapsus pictus, which has more of a round leaf, and Scindapsus treubii, which has more of an elongated, narrow leaf.  There are more species, and I am sure we will see the “house friendly” ones coming to market in the future.   

Close-up of a large, heart-shaped satin pothos leaf with a deep green center and silvery mottled patterns across the textured surface.

Scindapsus pictus 'Mount Salak,' Photo by M. Lisy

Close-up of a single silvery-green leaf with a soft, matte texture and visible dark veining running from the center to the edges.

Scindapsus pictus 'Platinum' Photo by M. Lisy

Close-up of a heart-shaped satin leaf with green coloring and irregular pale silver mottling across the surface.

Scindapsus pictus 'Silvery Ann,' Photo by M. Lisy

Close-up of a heart-shaped satin leaf with a silvery-green surface and dark green mottled patterns, showing a soft, velvety texture and central vein.

Scindapsus pictus 'Silver Satin,' Photo by M. Lisy

Close-up of a smooth, heart-shaped Scindapsus treubii ‘Moonlight’ leaf with a silvery-gray sheen and a darker green midrib running down the center.

Scindapsus treubii ‘Moonlight’ Photo by M. Lisy.

S. treubii  has a beautiful form called ‘Moonlight.’  It is a nice silver leaf with a green stripe down the middle.  This contrast produces a truly is a gorgeous plant when it gets larger.  There is a new variety called ‘Dark Form,’ which has almost black leaves.  I can’t wait to get this one!  All of the other varieties I will talk about are of the S. pictus species.  The first is ‘Silvery Ann.’  It is a green leaf with silver specs, squares, or blotches, but not too many.  It really makes a nice looking, unique plant.  ‘Silver Satin’ has an intense, broad silver coloration on top of a green leaf.  The variety “Mount Salak’ has much less intense silver, with some leaves having almost a light green color instead.  Its mottled color looks great over the green leaf as well.  My all-time new favorite is ‘Platinum.’  I found this one unlabeled in a big box store recently.  What a beautiful color!  Although on its own it is tempting to think the plant boring, but place it into a collection of green house plants and this one really shines!  Why not add some Scindapsus to your plant collection?       

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at  extension.uconn.edu/locations.    

This article was published in the Hartford Courant June 21, 2026

Weed Them and Reap!

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Office

Low-growing plant with reddish stems and small, thick oval green leaves spreading across dry soil and mulch, resembling a common garden weed like purslane.
Purslane. Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

By now the vegetables and flower beds should be pretty well planted and plants starting to establish themselves. Despite many of our best efforts, a new crop of weeds is also attempting to get established. These garden pests compete for light, water and nutrients. They also may harbor or attract insects that prey on our plants. If left to their own devices, they can crowd out our desirable specimens reducing the air flow and leading to conditions more conducive to disease.

Weeds are generally sorted into 4 categories: perennial, biennial, winter annuals and summer annuals. There’s a good chance that you removed any winter annuals as you prepared your planting areas. These plants typically germinate in the fall, overwinter, bloom in early spring and set seed. They include weeds such as annual bluegrass, chickweed and shepherd’s purse.

Perennial weeds include dandelions, burdock, thistle and plantains while Queen Anne’s lace and garlic mustard are some biennial ones. Usually, the summer annual weeds are most prevalent in recently planted vegetable and flower beds. Some examples are lambsquarters, galinsoga, purslane, crabgrass and ragweed.

You have probably heard the expression ‘A year’s worth of seeding is worth 7 years weeding’ or something along that line. Weed seeds can last a long time in the soil with purslane and dandelion seeds remaining viable up to 20 years and pigweed up to 40 years. So even letting a few weed plants go to seed will have you pulling up their progeny for quite some time.

What’s a gardener to do? The key to weed control is to stay ahead of them. Take them out when they are small and shallow rooted. For areas that are pretty much bare soil, like around vegetable plants, a small handheld hoe or cobra head weeder works great on patches of newly germinated weeds that are too tiny to pull by hand. For larger gardens, maybe a taller blade or stirrup hoe would be a good tool to have on hand.

I will admit to spending a lot of time on my hands and knees weeding. While this may be not practical for everyone, it gives you a chance to get up close and personal with both the weeds as well as your garden plants so you can see, for example, if any squash vine borers are attacking your squash or pumpkins or if your radishes are ready to be harvested or if that row of bean seeds has yet to germinate.

Mulch can be a gardener’s best friend. The key is to match the mulch to the garden. For vegetable gardens, straw mulches, shredded leaves or untreated grass clippings work well as they degrade over the season adding organic matter to the soil and feeding the bacterial microbes that are most active and essential in agricultural type soils. While many people use plastic, weed fabric or cardboard to keep weeds down, these have been shown to have negative effects on soil health. The benefits may outweigh the costs for commercial growers but for the home gardener, healthy soils mean healthy plants. Plus carboard, especially corrugated pieces often contains contaminants.

For perennial flower beds, I like the look of cocoa shell (if you don’t have dogs that would eat them) or buckwheat hull mulches. They set off your perennial foliage and flowering plants at a better scale than larger bark mulches, nugget mulches or woodchips do. The problem with these being they are not always easy to find or cheap. For trees and shrubs, coarser wood or bark mulches would be appropriate. The bottom line for mulches, is that regardless of which one you chose, it will help to keep weeds down.

In certain situations, the use of an organically certified (OMRI) herbicide might be helpful. There are a number of products on the market that contain essential oils, like clove or citrus, sodium or ammonium derivatives or even acetic acid (vinegar). I find them handy for high populations of just germinating weed seeds before planting or in pathways between rows. The tiny weeds are killed quickly especially on a sunny day.

Two things to consider when purchasing these products are that they typically do not kill the roots of larger established weeds. The top will generally die back but the roots are still alive and will resprout. The other thing is these organic weedkillers are non-selective meaning they can kill any plant they are sprayed on.

However, you choose to remove them, persistence and regular scouting will keep weeds to a minimum. Because the seeds can be in the soil, be transported when purchasing compost or plants, can blow in from the neighbor’s garden or even be moved by animals and people, weeds will always find a way into your gardens and it’s your job to keep them out.

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant June 13, 2026

Start Scouting Now for this Common CT Garden Pest

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Close-up of a split green squash stem revealing orange plant tissue and a pale, grub-like larva inside, with soil visible in the background.Provide your feedback on BizChat
SVB larvae inside of a zucchini stem. Photo by H. Zidack

The Squash Vine Borer (SVB) is a red-orange and black winged insect. They emerge in early to mid-summer and lay their eggs at the base of squash stems. When those eggs hatch, larvae emerge and bore their way into the plant stem, continuing to eat your squash plants from the inside out until they are ready to pupate. Gardeners may not even notice their presence until they see squash plants wilting in the summer heat. Upon even closer inspection, a yellow, sawdust like appearance and entry hole at the base of the stem is often found. Once this is observed, it is often too late. While early June may feel too early to start scouting for these guys, it’s the perfect time to start planning defensive strategies to help protect your garden.  

The first thing you can do, especially if you have a history with these insects, is select resistant cultivars. Knowing which types of squash are common targets can help you determine whether you will want to keep a closer eye on them this season, or maybe plant something different, altogether.  

Cucurbita pepo is highly susceptible to Squash Vine Borer. This species includes Zucchini and summer squash. They have thin, hollow stems, which make it easy for these critters to get into. Pumpkins are also in this category. However, pumpkins are more likely to vine out and lay roots along the stems touching the soil surface. This helps the plant to withstand damage a bit better than its other counterparts.  

Cucurbita maxima, which includes winter squash like giant pumpkins, Kabocha and Blue Hubbard varieties, is also susceptible to the SVB. While it is less preferred than C. pepo, it can still be targeted. 

Cucurbita moschata is the most resistant plant species. C. moschata includes the butternut, honeynut and crookneck squashes. Their stems are thicker and more succulent, making them least favorable for the SVB to lay eggs on. Therefore, while not impossible, they stand a good chance against this garden pest.  These insects are also rarely found in cucumbers and melons.  

It is important to rotate your planting sites each year. These insects overwinter as pupae in the soil and emerge as adults in June-July. Planting in the same place each season is like placing a gift on their front doorstep. Moving your planting site and adding a protective row cover as soon as you plant can improve your odds at keeping the SVB away from your plants altogether. Leave the row cover until both male and female flowers begin to emerge. After that it is important to remove the row covers so pollinators can access the flowers.  

For gardeners unable to rotate their gardens, preventative measures can still be taken. Do not use row covers as they can trap the pest in with your plants. Some recommend placing aluminum foil around the first couple inches of stem at the soil line to prevent insects from laying eggs and boring through stem tissue. Treating the base of the plants with a preventative pesticide may also be effective.  

Chemical management is often tricky with these pests, and home gardeners may not feel it is worth the effort. Importantly, chemical management is no longer effective once the larvae have entered the stems, since they are then protected by the plants. In addition, these products can impact the pollinators visiting your cucurbits, so it’s important to carefully consider the full impact of chemical management. Always read the label in full and follow all instructions as prescribed.   

Start scouting for the adults early. In mid to late June, check the base of stems for eggs and early boring damage. You may even see the adult insects flying around. Symptoms, like wilting, often begin in late June and become more common in July. 

If you have a strong stomach and sense of adventure, you can carefully slice into the stem to try to find the larvae and extract it. Vining squash species may recover if the pest is removed and portions of vine are then buried in the soil, allowing new roots to take over and support the vine.   

Alternatively, removing affected plants entirely and disposing of them in the trash may help to break the life cycle and remove pests from your garden for future seasons.  

Since these insects typically only have one generation per year, your hard work does have a finish line. Paying extra attention and working to manage the SVB in early summer will allow your squash to grow healthy for the rest of the season. A second crop of summer squash can be planted in July, once adults are no longer out and laying eggs. This second crop should be unaffected by the SVB and produce healthy squash for your family to enjoy! 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at  extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

This article was published in the Hartford Courant June 7, 2026