Newspaper Articles

Managing Potassium for Cabbage Success

Posted on October 11, 2026October 13, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Five harvested cabbage heads of increasing size are arranged on a white board in a grassy field, labeled with treatment rates of 0, 50, 100, 150, and 200 lb acre⁻¹. Surrounding cabbage leaves are visible on the ground, illustrating differences in cabbage growth across treatments. — Response of cabbage head size to potassium fertilizer application rates ranging from 0 to 200 lb/acre. Photo by Y. Zheng

Potassium (K) is an essential nutrient for growing healthy, productive cabbage. It plays an important role in root development, water management, enzymes activation, and overall plant health. Adequate potassium helps cabbage plants tolerate stresses such as drought, frost, insects, and diseases. One of potassium's most important functions is helping plants regulate water. During dry conditions, potassium improves the plant's ability to retain water and reduces the risk of wilting. Cabbage grown in K-deficient soils can experience changes in plant metabolism that can reduce growth and vigor. These changes include lower levels of amino acids needed for growth and nutrient uptake, reduced compounds that help plants cope with water stress, and disruptions in sugar movement within the plant. As a result, K-deficient cabbage may grow more slowly, produce lower yields, and become more susceptible to environmental stress. K also plays a critical role in cabbage nutrition and quality. For example, increasing K availability for cabbage can lead to increased starch sugar content in cabbage leaves.

Sufficient K availability supports these important plant functions and promotes the development of a large, healthy leaf canopy before head formation, as well as the rapid growth of marketable cabbage heads. However, applying K beyond the crop's requirement does not typically increase yield or quality because cabbage plants can absorb more K than they need, a phenomenon known as luxury consumption. This unnecessary uptake increases fertilizer costs without providing additional benefits. In some cases, high K availability, such as from high-rate banded applications of potassium fertilizers, may increase the risk of cabbage head bursting and outbalance of essential nutrients. Therefore, proper K management is essential to maximize yield and quality while avoiding unnecessary fertilizer expenses and potential negative impacts on crops.

A recent two-year field study conducted in Storrs, Connecticut, during 2024-2025 by graduate student Yiling Zheng in the Department of Plant Science and Landscape Architecture at the University of Connecticut demonstrated the benefits of potassium fertilization for cabbage production in soils low in K.

In this study, soil test K was 138 lb acre⁻¹, below UConn's recommended optimum range of 250-349 lb acre⁻¹. K was applied as sulfate of potash (potassium sulfate) at rates ranging from low to high K supply levels. In both years, cabbage yield increased significantly with K fertilization up to 50 lb K₂O acre⁻¹, with no additional yield benefit observed at higher application rates. K fertilization increased marketable yield by 19% in 2024 and 58% in 2025 compared with the unfertilized control.

Side-by-side cabbage plants grown under two fertilizer treatments, labeled 0 and 200 lb acre⁻¹, displayed on plastic mulch in a field. Plants at 200 lb acre⁻¹ are substantially larger, with fuller leaves and visible cabbage heads, while plants at 0 are much smaller and less developed. — Cabbage growth under contrasting potassium fertilizer rates: 0 lb/acre (left) and 200 lb/acre (right). Photo by Y. Zheng

Although K concentrations in marketable cabbage heads were not affected by fertilizer treatment, fertilization increased K concentrations in the unmarketable outer leaves. When K accumulation in both marketable heads and outer leaves was considered, total plant K uptake increased significantly with K fertilizer rate in both years. On average, K-fertilized cabbage took up approximately 150 and 200 lb K₂O acre⁻¹ in 2024 and 2025, respectively, compared with 110 and 90 lb K₂O acre⁻¹ in the unfertilized control. Across treatments, approximately 70% of total plant K was partitioned to the marketable head, with the remaining 30% retained in the outer leaves.

This research also found that cabbage heads with higher K concentrations tended to have higher concentrations of N, P, Ca, Mg, S, Mn, Fe, and Cu, all of which contribute to the nutritional composition of harvested cabbage. These findings suggest that adequate K nutrition not only supports crop growth and yield but also enhances the uptake and accumulation of other essential nutrients. Maintaining sufficient K availability may therefore improve the overall nutritional quality of cabbage by promoting a more balanced mineral composition in the harvested heads.

The UConn study demonstrated the importance of K fertilization for maximizing cabbage yield and quality. However, soil test potassium is the primary factor used to determine whether K fertilization is needed and how much should be applied. If soil test K levels are at or above the recommended critical level, additional K fertilizer is not necessary. Under these conditions, increasing K application is unlikely to improve cabbage yield or quality and may result in unnecessary fertilizer costs.

Connecticut growers are encouraged to submit soil samples to the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center before planting or transplanting cabbage. Soil testing provides the information needed to make sound fertilizer decisions and ensure that K and other nutrients are applied only when needed. By combining accurate soil testing with balanced fertility and careful nutrient management, growers can optimize cabbage yield and quality while protecting both farm profitability and the environment.

Be on the Lookout for Apple Scab this Autumn

Posted on October 5, 2026October 13, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Close-up of a green leaf on a small branch, showing numerous dark brown to black irregular spots and browning along the edges. The leaf rests on a light-colored surface, highlighting signs of disease or leaf damage. — Example of apple scab symptoms on an apple leaf. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Apples are synonymous with autumn, as their fragrance and flavor have become mainstays of the season which many call their favorite. Connecticut is no stranger to apple production—our state harvests over half a million bushels of apples annually. However, plant pathogens and pests do not harbor the same love for apples as many of us do. These agents wreak havoc year-round, impacting the health of apple trees even before fruit has begun production. One of these agents is Venturia inaequalis, the fungal pathogen responsible for apple scab.

Apple scab is one of the most common and economically impactful diseases of apple crops worldwide. Members of the genus Malus—most notably including apples, crabapples, and their cultivated and wild varieties—can be susceptible to infection.

Venturia inaequalis overwinters in the form of fungal fruiting bodies on apple leaf debris. The pathogen has two phases of its disease cycle. The primary phase begins when saprophytic growth, meaning fungal growth unrelated to disease, occurs for about a month after leaves fall. In the spring, rainfall prompts the release of ascospores (reproductive fungal structures) at the same time apple leaf buds begin to emerge and unfurl. Under the proper environmental conditions, these spores travel to new hosts with wet leaves which they can enter via leaf cuticles. The secondary phase of the disease cycle occurs as the pathogen obtains nutrients from the leaves, prompting its conidia (another form of fungal spore) to emerge and spread to other hosts. In what is known as secondary infection, conidia germinate on new apple leaves, allowing thread-like fungal structures called hyphae to inoculate the host. Numerous secondary infection cycles of Venturia inaequalis can occur during a single growing season depending on the amount of rainfall and humidity present in the environment.

Symptoms of apple scab are distributed across multiple regions of the host plant, with leaves and fruits being the most visibly impacted. In the primary stage of infection, small, raised dark green or olive lesions appear on either surface of young leaves. These lesions increase in size, sometimes covering the entire leaf in what is known as sheet scab, and change color to yellow or black. In severe cases, leaves become scaly, shriveled, and eventually fall prematurely. Severity of infection is dependent on host age—younger hosts are more susceptible to the disease. Secondary lesions develop during the growing season, appearing as brown, irregular, raised leaf spots. Fruit tissue becomes gray or black in patches, which turn corky and crack as disease progression advances. Apples infected by Venturia inaequalis near the end of the growing season or in storage may develop pinpoint scab—small, dark spots on the tissue surface.

The ability of apple scab to manifest at several points in the host’s life cycle and on a multitude of tissue surfaces makes the disease one of great economic impact for commercial growers. Cultural and chemical control methods are available, with proper sanitation and cleanup practices being essential to remove potential surfaces for the pathogen to overwinter on. Additionally, apple cultivars such as Liberty, Akane, and Chehalis have resistance to apple scab. Samples suspected of having apple scab may be submitted to the UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab for confirmation.

A Beautiful Bounty of Bulbs

Posted on September 28, 2026October 13, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Rows of bright yellow and white daffodils bloom along both sides of a long stone wall, stretching into the distance across a grassy field. The rough gray stones contrast with the vibrant spring flowers and green lawn. — Daffodil bulbs planted along a 200-foot rock wall make a stunning display from any angle (photo by M. Lisy).

“Dig, drop, done” was a popular slogan a few years ago for bulb plants, but it really depends on which ones are planted and what type of soil is present. A few bulbs easily go in with a common garden trowel, but a bulb auger can make short work of hole digging. This tool attaches to the end of a battery powered drill. Hard, compacted soil will be hard to dig, while sandy or loamy soil should be fairly easy. Rocks of any size can really complicate the digging process. Extreme care must be taken when using a bulb auger as it can suddenly stop on a rock. That force gets transferred to the drill, which in turn gets transferred to the person holding it and can cause the operator’s hand/wrist to twist. This may cause significant injury. I like to use the extra handle attachment on a drill and brace it on my leg. The bulb auger will take the beating then. It is best to go slow and set the drill to less power so it stops if it hits a rock.

Fall is the best time to plant spring-blooming bulbs. As long as the ground is not frozen, bulbs can still be planted. It is best to plant after the ground has cooled below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Bulbs have an interesting life cycle. They grow roots in the fall, go dormant over winter, push up leaves and flowers in the spring, recharge in late spring for next year, and go dormant in the summer.

There are many bulbs to choose from, but I will focus on the two most popular as points of comparison here. Tulips are very beautiful, but must be thought of as an annual plant. They come up beautifully the first spring. On year two, if half come up that is doing good. Moden tulips varieties are just not very long lived. Also, they are preyed heavily upon by voles, mice, and squirrels.

Daffodils, on the other hand, are highly toxic to animals. Everything, even deer, tend to leave them alone. It is for this reason that some people interplant daffodils with tulips, hoping they will keep the tulip predators away. These plants are some of the most long-lived available. They come back year after year, and with more of them. If daffodils produce mostly leaves and only a few flowers, they are too crowded and should be dug up, spread out, and replanted. This would be best done in late May and early June when the leaves are drying up. Add some granular bulb-type organic fertilizer to the hole before planting avoiding it touching the bulb itself.

Red and black cordless drill with a side handle attached, placed beside a long metal auger bit on a concrete floor. — Photo Caption: A bulb auger and drill with handle set to a low setting make hole digging a breeze (photos by M. Lisy).

Planting design is a matter of personal taste, but I find that a row of daffodils neatly planted at the front edge of a garden bed is a beautiful sight. The formality of this really makes for a stunning impact in early spring when everything else seems dead. Equally mesmerizing are daffodils planted along a rock wall. I have done this on my property and it is so beautiful I have caught passersby taking pictures! The choice of whether to use one variety or a mix is up to the gardener.

One of the most breath-taking displays of daffodils are the ones that are “naturalized.” This is accomplished best on yards, fields, and hillsides. For the greatest impact, a mixed variety of daffodils should be planted. The goal is to have the planting look random with no pattern or consistent spacing. Each year, the bulbs will multiply and come back bigger and better.

Daffodils are best fertilized in the spring when growth first appears. This is the most important time as the bulb is actively growing, and will soon need to prepare for next year’s bloom. A fall application could also be done as the bulb is actively is taking up nutrients then, but is not nearly as important as the springtime feeding. Daffodil bulbs are fairly inexpensive – why not try or add some this year?

Should You Lime This Fall?

Posted on September 21, 2026September 25, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Fall brings familiar lawn and garden jobs like reseeding thin turf, planting bulbs, cleaning up beds, and preparing for winter. For many people, lime is also a part of the fall lawn-care routine.

But lime is not something every lawn or garden needs every year. When soil is too acidic, limestone can be very helpful. However, when the soil pH is already suitable, adding more lime provides no additional benefit and can eventually push the pH too high. Whether you should lime this fall depends less on the season than on whether your soil actually needs it.

What lime actually does

Limestone is used primarily to raise soil pH. Soil pH describes how acidic or alkaline the soil is, with pH 7 considered neutral. Values below 7 are acidic and values above 7 are alkaline. Soil pH affects nutrient availability, root growth, and the activity of many soil organisms.

Many Connecticut soils are naturally acidic. Rainfall gradually leaches calcium and magnesium from soil, making it acidic. Some fertilizer practices can also increase soil acidity over time. Limestone neutralizes some of that acidity while supplying calcium and, depending on the type of limestone, magnesium.

Most lawn grasses and common vegetables perform best in slightly acidic soil, typically around pH 6 to the mid-6s. However, there is no single ideal pH for every plant. Blueberries, rhododendrons, azaleas, and several other plants prefer more acidic conditions. Applying lime simply because the rest of the yard receives it can make the soil less suitable for these plants.

That is why the target pH should be based on what you are growing.

Moss does not mean “add lime”

One of the most persistent lawn-care myths is that moss automatically means the soil is too acidic. Moss can grow well in acidic soil, but it also thrives in shade, wet or poorly drained soil, compacted areas, and thin turf where grass struggles to compete. A shaded, damp lawn may have moss even when its soil pH is perfectly acceptable.

Adding lime without checking the soil may therefore do nothing to solve the real problem. If the lawn is heavily shaded, compacted, or poorly drained, those conditions still need to be addressed.

The same principle applies when grass looks weak or vegetables struggle. Poor plant growth does not by itself indicate a need for lime. Problems with drainage, compaction, nutrients, watering, roots, insects, or disease can produce similar symptoms.

How much lime?

Knowing the soil pH is important, but pH alone does not always tell you how much limestone to apply. Two soils with the same pH may require different amounts of lime to reach the same target. Soil texture, organic matter, and the soil’s ability to resist changes in pH all influence the lime requirement. Many laboratories use a buffer test to estimate this resistance and then calculate a lime rate based on the target pH for the plants being grown. This is why a laboratory soil test that provides a lime recommendation is more useful than simply checking pH with an inexpensive home meter.

Applying less than the recommended amount may not raise the soil pH enough to reach the desired range, while over-liming can push soil pH too high and reduce the availability of nutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc.

Limestone works gradually, and how quickly it changes soil pH depends partly on particle size, soil conditions, and how the material is applied. It may take six months to a year, or longer, to reach its full effect

Calcitic or dolomitic?

Garden centers commonly sell both calcitic and dolomitic limestone. These terms describe the limestone’s composition. Calcitic limestone primarily supplies calcium, while dolomitic limestone supplies both calcium and magnesium. If a soil test shows low magnesium, dolomitic limestone can correct soil acidity while also supplying magnesium. If magnesium is already high, calcitic limestone may be the better choice.

Limestone can also come in different physical forms. Both calcitic and dolomitic limestone may be sold as ground or pelletized products. Pelletized lime is easier and less dusty to spread because finely ground limestone is formed into pellets. Once wet, the pellets break apart, releasing fine particles that react with the soil.

Is fall the best time?

Fall is a good time to apply limestone, especially to lawns, because soil moisture is usually adequate and the material has time to begin reacting before the next growing season. However, lime can also be applied at other times of year when conditions are suitable.

For a new lawn or vegetable garden, lime can be mixed into the soil before planting if a soil test recommends it. On an established lawn, it is usually applied to the surface and allowed to react gradually.

The key is to base liming on a soil test, not the calendar. Test the soil, consider what you plan to grow, and, if lime is recommended, apply the appropriate type and amount.

Feeling blue? How Blue Pigments Create Vibrant Hues in Plants

Posted on September 12, 2026September 15, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Clusters of vibrant blue hydrangea flowers densely packed among lush green leaves, filling the frame with layered blooms and foliage. — Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is one of the few flowers that can have a natural blue hue. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

Blue is a color seldom seen in nature. Although the sky and bodies of water appear blue, very few animals and plants also exhibit this striking color. Anthocyanins, a type of pigment, are responsible for creating the red, purple, and blue hues found in plants. Anthocyanins are sensitive to environmental effects, such as acidity and the presence of metal ions. A primary example of this phenomenon is seen in the primary pigment Delphinidin, a type of anthocyanin. Delphinidin changes color in the presence of aluminum ions, which become more soluble/available in acidic environments. Bigleaf hydrangeas contain this pigment, infamously lining the neighborhoods of Connecticut in a range of pastel blues to deep fuchsia hues dependent on soil pH levels.

Other plants, such as the blue oil fern, can appear iridescent blue due to structural color. Since they are accustomed to the dim understory of the rainforest, these plants must take advantage of as much light as they can get. Many plants reflect green light the most, creating their characteristic green hue. Blue oil ferns have specialized chloroplasts on the surface of their leaves called iridoplasts, allowing the plant to capture more green light rather than reflect it. These iridoplasts create a shiny blue appearance despite no blue pigments being present. The arrangement of photosynthetic membranes in iridoplasts creates an optical nanostructure known as photonic crystals that slow down and concentrate light, ultimately allowing the plant to use available light more efficiently.

Many companies have taken the rarity of blue plants as a challenge, working to engineer a blue flower themselves. Roses, orchids, and chrysanthemums have been genetically modified in recent years to achieve this goal, but the results thus far have only yielded shades of purple. One project, the Phalaenopsis Blue Gene Orchid engineered in Japan, was recently deregulated in the United States and thus approved for sale (though not yet widely available). A Delphinidin gene was inserted from an Asiatic dayflower into a pink “Wedding Promenade” orchid. A white orchid flower, an apparent blank canvas, could not be used as a starting point because Delphinidin needs co-pigments to bind and stabilize the color—White Phalaenopsis lacks these important support molecules. The Blue Gene Orchid flowers in a deep purple-indigo, likely due to its intracellular pH and naturally occurring co-pigments that bind and alter coloration.

The easiest method, however, to acquire blue flowers may be available in your kitchen: food coloring. If you place cut flowers into a cup of water with blue food coloring (20-30 drops), the water will be sucked up through water transport tubes (xylem), giving your flowers a pleasant blue coloring. While artificial, it allows for unique customization and can be a great experiment to do with kids. White carnations and roses worked best when I attempted this for my second-grade science fair. Grocery stores selling blue flowers often use this trick via stem injection or may also paint blue coloring on the outside of the flower. While a standalone blue pigment doesn’t exist in plants, nature has found a way to create a beautiful rainbow for us to enjoy!

Vascular Invaders – Verticillium and Botryosphaeria fungi

Posted on September 7, 2026September 10, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Close-up of a cut tree branch showing exposed wood rings and textured bark, held by a hand in an indoor setting. — Ring-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Verticillium wilt. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Vascular plant diseases present a complex series of challenges, both in diagnosis and management. Pathogens of this nature invade the roots and vascular system of their host, stifling the ability of water and essential nutrients to travel throughout the plant. Without proper vascular function, leaves become yellow and wilted. Abnormal discoloration and the pattern which it forms within stem or branch tissue is often the key indication that a vascular disease may be present.

Two of the most prominent vascular pathogens are fungal species of Verticillium or Botryosphaeria. Both infect a wide array of hosts, overlapping to encompass many ornamental trees, shrubs, and vegetable crops. While there are many similarities between the diseases these pathogens cause, there are also defining characteristics which distinguish one from the other.

Verticillium dahliae and verticillium albo-atrum have the potential to cause verticillium wilt. Hosts span from vegetables like tomatoes and potatoes to trees like maple and ash. The fungal structures of either species inhabit soil where infected plant debris has decomposed. There, they can survive for 10-15 years. During the pathogen’s dormant phase, survival structures called microsclerotia germinate. Hyphae (filamentous fungal growth structures) are emitted from these structures and can extend to potential hosts within limited distances. Verticillium inoculates hosts by entering root tips or other areas of root formation, breaking through exterior layers to reach the vascular tissue inside. Conidia (spores) are formed in this location, dispersing to other potential hosts, while Verticillium continues to spread throughout the plant.

Although Verticillium wilt symptoms differ among hosts, abnormalities like leaf yellowing (chlorosis) or browning, wilting, and branch dieback raise suspicion of infection across the board. Symptoms may be isolated to one side of the plant or individual branches. Branch or stem discoloration is another key indicator of infection, accompanied by a streaking and a characteristic ring-shaped brown pattern on the interior of woody tissue. Damage is often concentrated in the lower areas of the plant, as Verticillium invades hosts from their base, working upwards.

The persistence and longevity of Verticillium structures in soil makes crop rotation and the destruction of diseased tissue crucial to disease management. While it’s usually best to remove the diseased plant entirely, woody plants with minor infections can survive for several more years, provided affected branches are pruned away and tools used for pruning are disinfected after use. Rubbing alcohol is a good choice, but there are several other disinfectants on the market labeled for use with tools. Do not compost or use diseased tissue for wood chips, as remaining fungal structures will survive for several years and may infect new host plants.

Close-up cross-section of a woody stem showing internal tissue discoloration and visible growth rings against a light background. — Wedge-shaped vascular discoloration associated with Botryosphaeria infection. Photo by UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory.

Botryosphaeria canker and dieback are attributed to several causal agents in the Botryosphaeriaceae family. Botryosphaeria is an opportunistic pathogen, choosing already stressed plants to infect and taking advantage of their weakened defense systems. Stress can stem from many sources—frequently environmental challenges, insect infestations, or prior instances of disease. While this group of pathogens has an extensive range of hosts, it is often observed on woody ornamentals—viburnum or rhododendron, for example—and trees like dogwood or maple. Fungal structures overwinter on previously infected tissue, or as endophytes which silently colonize plants without causing symptoms until they become weakened. Botryosphaeria uses many routes of entry when invading its hosts, including open wounds, cracks, or lenticels—porous openings on branch and stem tissue used for gas exchange.

As a vascular pathogen, wilting and dieback are characteristic symptoms of disease, accompanied by necrotic patches on bark and branches. Branches become girdled, and sunken cankers are evident. Depending on the host, sap may ooze from these areas, and black fungal sporulation (pycnidia) may be visible. Unlike verticillium wilt, interior vascular discoloration due to Botryosphaeria infection appears in wedges, resembling a slice of pie.

To manage Botryosphaeria canker and dieback, it is important to minimize sources of stress which can leave plants susceptible to infection. Appropriate pruning and sanitation practices, routine fertilization in accordance with the plant’s needs, and protection from environmental stressors (drought, heat, or cold) are all vital to maintaining vigor. Take care to prevent mechanical injury and wounds, minimizing the potential modes of entry for the pathogen.

As is the case with all plant diseases, laboratory analysis is required for an accurate diagnosis. If you suspect your plant has been infected by a vascular disease, submit branch tissue to the UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory for evaluation. Remember to collect tissue that is just beginning to appear symptomatic, as the lab is unable to diagnose plants that are already dead.

Tips for Harvesting Herbs

Posted on August 30, 2026September 10, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Fresh sage leaves arranged on a textured white cloth surface. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

With the Dog Days of summer behind us and Labor Day on the horizon, there’s still plenty of time to both enjoy your garden’s beauty and bounty as well as finish harvesting aromatic herbs for culinary use. Even a small pot or planting of basil, thyme, rosemary and the like can supply a fair amount of flavor to your favorite dishes.

Methods of harvesting vary from fresh use to frozen to dried depending on your preferences. Regardless of how you intend to prepare them, follow these few suggestions for harvesting. Start with clean hands, clean scissors or clippers and a clean container to place your herbs in. Make sure your scissors or clippers are sharp to make clean cuts.

Most herbs can be harvested throughout the summer. Annual herbs can be picked until they start looking ragged or get hit by the frost. Typically, late August through early September is the last time to clip perennial herbs as the tender new growth that is encouraged by harvesting could be damaged by the frost if plants are harvested too late in the season.

Also, as a general rule of thumb, herbs grown for their aromatic leaves are most pungent when harvested before flowering. This may leave some pollinator friendly gardeners with a dilemma as the flowers of many herb plants, like oregano and thyme, are especially attractive to pollinating bees and others. One way to deal with this if plants are of good size is to harvest half to two-thirds of the plants earlier in the season before they flower and later, cut the spent flowering stems back. Usually that gives you a second harvest about now.

Always harvest herbs in the morning, shortly after the dew dries but before the heat of day sets in. The essential oils are highest before the heat causes them to evaporate. When harvesting herbs for their flowers, like chamomile, borage and calendula, pick the blossoms just before fully opened. Seed heads of dill, fennel or coriander can be cut right into paper bags so as not to lose any seeds. Leave a few heads if you want these plants to self-seed. I had not had to purchase dill seeds for over 20 years in my old garden as they just reseeded themselves.

How much of a herb plant’s foliage can you remove? Anywhere from 30 to 70 percent depending on the plant. Quick growing plants such as oregano, mints, parsley and basil can generally have more of their foliage removed than slower growing potted rosemary and, in my yard, tarragon. Collect handfuls of leafy stems and bring inside to inspect before processing.

Plants can be rinsed if they have dust or dirt on them but if harvested after a rain or from a mulched bed, often they are clean enough not to need washing. Pick through them for any insects, damaged leaves or debris. If plants need to be rinsed, shake them and then spread them out on cloth or paper towels to dry. Generally, herbs that are not used fresh are either frozen or more typically dried.

Freezing herbs is quite easy. Simply chop them in small enough pieces to add to your water filled ice cube tray and freeze. Once frozen, the cubes can be popped out and stored in freezer bags or containers. Use for flavoring in soups, stews and other culinary dishes.

Herbs can be dried in little bundles, on screens, in a microwave, oven or dehydrator depending on your preferences. If you have a dry, airy, dimly lit area, you might want to make small bundles of herbs to hang upside down to dry. Seed heads, such as dill, can be bundled together and placed upside down in a paper bag. Punch a few holes in the bag, gather it at the top and hang to dry. Seeds will fall into the bottom of the bag. Leafy herbs could be spread out and placed on drying screens. Air drying works best when we have periods of low humidity.

Since this is often not the case in August, many opt to dry herbs in a microwave or dehydrator. Old gas stoves with an always on pilot light in the oven make ideal drying places. Except for the dill seeds which I bag, the microwave works best for me. Not only is it a quick way to dry herbs but they keep their nice green color. The key to successful microwave drying is to just dry small batches of herbs at one time and experiment with the timing. Herbs should be placed on a plate between 2 paper towels and then start your microwave from 30 to 60 seconds and see how that works. In between bursts, the herbs can be stirred and the bottom paper towel replaced if it gets too wet. Continue in short bursts until you come up with a good routine for your microwave. I have not used a dehydrator so if using, follow the directions that come with the unit.

Dried herbs are flavorful for at least one year. After drying, crumble them slightly and store in well-sealed glass or plastic jars. I repurpose ones that originally held herbs and spices. Take some time now to preserve some of summer’s best flavors. Come cooler days, you’ll be glad you did.

August: The Month That Shapes Next Year’s Garden

Posted on August 23, 2026August 25, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Close-up of a purple artichoke flower in bloom, surrounded by thick green bracts and unopened buds. Bright yellow-orange flowers are softly blurred in the background, creating a colorful garden scene. — Photo by H. Zidack

It’s been a strange year. While many gardeners typically start to feel as if their season is starting to wind down in August, some gardens this year seem to finally be hitting their stride. Regardless, with fall just ahead of us, this month provides a fantastic opportunity to reflect, and plan for your next growing season all while the weather is still on your side!

While your garden is still in flower and plants are still well established, it is a great time of year to document this growing season for yourself. Gardeners have used systems of colored golf tees, rocks, or other means to mark out where perennials are in the garden so that they do not disturb them during spring planting or cleanup. Others will sketch out their gardens on graph paper. For perennials, this is a great way to remember what species are planted, and when they flower so that you can shop for additions. This method is particularly useful for vegetable garden beds, which many try to rotate each season. By sketching out what is currently planted, you will be able to identify new locations for next season’s rotation.

It’s always easier to reflect on something while it’s in front of you. Keep a journal and note what went well this season and what didn’t while it is fresh in mind. Include pests and diseases so you are aware of what to scout for next season, before it’s an issue. Even though next year’s conditions may be different, this documentation will help you have an idea of timing, locations, or practices that can be improved on in the next growing season.

While it may not quite be time to start shopping for seeds or starts for next season, note the varieties of vegetables that did well in your garden, and ones that you might skip for next year. Taking note of diseases or pests will also help you with your winter seed shopping by helping you identify if resistant varieties are out there to help you combat those issues. Creating this list now will help you when it comes time for those January seed orders!

If you still want to play in the dirt, this is a good time of year to divide your spring and summer blooming perennials. Division not only provides an opportunity for your plants to have a little extra growing room in the garden bed, but some see it as a way of getting free plants from your garden! Enhance other garden spaces with additional plant material where it may fit. If your plants are healthy and free of pests and disease, you can even share divisions with family, friends or neighbors.

Late summer and fall blooming perennials are best divided in the spring so that they are not expending energy on both flowering and establishment at the same time. Always make sure to follow proper watering guidelines to help any transplanted divisions establish in their new spot in the garden. Even though the plants have been in your garden for a long time, once they are moved the clock resets on their “establishment period.” They’ve taken a hit to their root system and may need your support to recover. Ensure plants are receiving one inch of water per week (roughly 0.62 gallons per sq foot), to help them establish a healthy root system. Always feel the soil to determine whether supplemental water is necessary.

Spring bulbs and Peony roots will be planted in the coming months, so prepare by shopping early! Unique varieties will sell out quickly and you will want to make sure you get what you need for planting time.

We’re also approaching a fine time of year to have your soil nutrition tested so that you’re ready to go next spring! Typically, the springtime sees a rush for soil testing and there can be delays, which mean more time waiting before implementing your fertilizer programs. By testing in the fall, you have your recommendations ready to go when the soil warms up next spring!

Don’t underestimate the value of a detailed gardening journal and a few garden markers to help you remember where things are in your garden, how well they did, and what you may need to watch out for next year! Many successful gardeners have a collection of journals or notes that help them build upon what they learn from season to season. August is the perfect time of year to start documenting those observations while they’re fresh in your mind, and there’s still plenty of gardening left in the year!

Invasive or Aggressive? Why the Difference Matters in Your Garden

Posted on August 16, 2026August 18, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Wide meadow filled with tall yellow wildflowers under a clear blue sky, bordered by trees and distant low hills in the background. — Canada goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) is an aggressive, native plant. Photo by Lauren Kurtz

You’re in the garden, staring at that same patch of weeds spreading year after year into your flower beds. You grumble how invasive they are. Or are they aggressive? Conversationally, both invasive and aggressive paint the same picture but if you read the fine print, they mean different things.

In everyday conversation, the two words can sound interchangeable. In horticulture and ecology, however, they mean different things. That distinction can shape how we manage plants, communicate with other gardeners and landscape professionals, and understand the regulations that apply to certain species. Gardening lingo can be nuanced and details matter.

Let’s begin with the broadest term: weed. A weed is simply a plant growing where it is not wanted. A weed may be otherwise desirable when it’s growing where we want it. Ralph Waldo Emerson famously said a weed is “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.” A weed is more a description of where a plant is growing; it does not give away information about the plant’s provenance or growth habit.

Aggressive describes the growth behavior of a plant. Weeds and plants we grow in our gardens can be aggressive. Native and nonnative plants can be aggressive too. Aggressive plants can outcompete other plants for resources and outgrow the space allotted to them. Not all aggressive plants are invasive, but in some cases an aggressive, non-native plant can be categorized as invasive.

Invasive plants are nonnative and have demonstrated the ability to spread aggressively, establish outside of cultivation into natural areas, and outcompete native plants. People have introduced plants beyond their native ranges for centuries both intentionally and unintentionally. Most introduced, nonnative plants do not become invasive, but those that do can cause significant, costly problems for landowners, communities, and land managers. Invasive plants often have legal or regulatory implications.

The way invasive plants are regulated varies state to state. In Connecticut, a plant is considered invasive if it meets a set of ecological criteria outlined in Connecticut General Statutes 22a-381a. Connecticut’s Invasive Plants Council uses these criteria to recommend which plants belong on the state’s invasive plant list. The list is periodically updated by the State legislature as additional plants meeting the invasive plant criteria are identified. There are more than 100 plants on Connecticut’s invasive plant list.

What does it mean for a plant to be native or nonnative? Native plants are species that have occurred in a region without the benefit of human introduction. Depending on the context, native can mean native to the United States, to New England, to Connecticut, or to a smaller locale. There are different opinions about what makes a plant native and at what geographic scale. The most important consideration is that native plants coevolved alongside other species in their native range and are part of the greater ecological community. Native plants can be considered aggressive, but they are not considered invasive.

In summary, what defines a weed is a matter of opinion. Aggressive plants have robust growth, can be native or nonnative, and are sometimes further classified as invasive. All invasive plants are nonnative and are usually aggressive.

Do Home Gardens Need Mycorrhizal Inoculants?

Posted on August 9, 2026August 11, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Walk into a garden center, and you may find bags, tubs, and packets of “mycorrhizal inoculants” shelved beside fertilizers and transplants. Their labels promise stronger roots, better yields, improved drought tolerance, and healthier plants.

The science behind mycorrhizae is real. The more practical question is whether the product on the shelf can deliver those benefits and whether your garden needs it at all.

What mycorrhizae actually are

Mycorrhizae are partnerships between plant roots and certain soil fungi. The fungi extend fine threads called hyphae into the surrounding soil, increasing the area from which plants can absorb water and nutrients. In return, the plants provide sugars produced through photosynthesis. These ancient partnerships play an important role in the growth of many plant species.

Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi, or AMF, are the most common type of mycorrhizal fungi associated with lawns, vegetables, and many ornamentals and may be labeled “endomycorrhizae.” Tomatoes, peppers, corn, squash, beans, grasses, and many flowers form these partnerships. Other plants rely on different mycorrhizal fungi. Oaks, birches, hickories, and many conifers commonly associate with ectomycorrhizae, while blueberries and rhododendrons form ericoid mycorrhizae. The inoculant must therefore be compatible with the plant.

What may already be in your soil

In many established garden beds, lawns, meadows, and landscapes, resident mycorrhizal fungi are already present. Their abundance and diversity depend on vegetation, disturbance history, fertilizer use and soil conditions. Adding a commercial fungus to an established soil community does not necessarily improve a partnership that is already functioning. The introduced fungi must still be alive, compatible with the plant, and able to compete with the organisms already there.

Recent research gives gardeners good reason to be cautious. A meta-analysis published in the journal New Phytologist found that roughly 80% of commercial inoculant treatments resulted in minimal or no mycorrhizal root colonization. A separate 2025 evaluation from the University of Zürich of sixteen commercial products found that none of the seven products marketed for home gardening successfully established mycorrhizal symbiosis under controlled conditions.

There are several possible reasons. Mycorrhizal fungi are living organisms and may lose viability during storage. Fungal species also differ in their ability to associate with particular plants and perform under different soil conditions. Independent quality standards and verification remain limited, making it difficult for consumers to know how many viable fungal propagules remain in a product by the time it reaches the garden.

When inoculation may help

Inoculation is most plausible where suitable fungi are scarce or absent, such as in some severely disturbed construction soils, degraded sites, or soilless and pasteurized growing media used for containers and greenhouse transplants. Even then, the plant must be capable of forming the partnership, and the product must contain viable fungi that are compatible with that plant.

Tree and shrub plantings require extra caution. Many woody species rely mainly on ectomycorrhizal or ericoid fungi rather than AMF, so a generic product labeled “mycorrhizae” may contain the wrong organisms for the plant. Read the label carefully and look for the fungal type and species included, not just the word “mycorrhizae.”

Why established gardens often see little benefit

For an established Connecticut vegetable garden or perennial bed, several factors work against a bagged inoculant paying off.

First, the soil may already contain a functioning fungal community. Introduced strains often struggle to establish in soils with diverse resident organisms. When they do establish, they may persist, decline, or alter the existing community, so their effects are not automatically beneficial.

Second, high phosphorus commonly reduces AMF colonization and the plant’s reliance on the partnership. Many long-established vegetable gardens test high in phosphorus after years of compost, manure, or fertilizer applications. A soil test is especially useful before buying an inoculant or adding more phosphorus.

Third, some common crops generally do not form functional mycorrhizal associations. These include broccoli, cabbage, kale, cauliflower, mustard, and radish. Beets, chard, and spinach are also generally considered non-hosts. Applying a mycorrhizal inoculant to a bed planted mainly with these crops is unlikely to provide a meaningful benefit.

Supporting beneficial fungi

For most established Connecticut gardens, lawns, and landscapes, mycorrhizal inoculants may not be necessary because beneficial fungi are often already present. They may be more useful in highly disturbed soils or growing media where compatible fungi are scarce.

Good soil management can help support the fungi already in the soil. Avoid unnecessary tillage, which can break fungal hyphae, and keep living roots in the ground when practical through perennial plantings or compatible cover crops such as annual ryegrass and crimson clover. Test the soil before adding phosphorus, since high phosphorus can reduce the plant’s reliance on mycorrhizae.

Before buying an inoculant, consider whether improving soil conditions and supporting the existing fungal community may be the better first step.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

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