Newspaper Articles

If Scindapsus is Wrong, I Don’t Want to Be Right

Posted on June 21, 2026June 22, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Hanging silver satin pothos plant with trailing, heart-shaped green leaves marbled with light gray, suspended from a plastic hook against a plain background. — Scindapsus pictus ‘Silver Satin,’ Photo by M. Lisy.

It really is not sinful to like Scindapsus. In fact, it can be very enjoyable to add some to your plant collection. These are a lesser-known houseplant, but are rapidly becoming very popular. They are very similar to the vining Philodendrons, and are most often confused with Pothos (Epipremnum). All of these aforementioned plants belong to the Araceae family. The Scindapsus come from Southeast Asia, Philodendrons from Central/South America, and Pothos from the Tropical Pacific. Although they come from different parts of the world, they all live in rainforest habitats, and therefore will do well when grown together. The thing that most stands out about the Scindapsus species are the unique colors. They are generally a gray or green color. Now that base color has, to more or less degree, some silver colors overlaid, except for some that don’t have any additional color at all.

The nicest part of Scindapsus is that they have very similar care to their look-a-like cousins. They generally like to have the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings. The soil should be that used for aroids. If using a commercial houseplant soil, add some extra perlite and/or orchid bark to lighten it up a bit. The growth habit could be up a moss pole, or in a hanging basket. I prefer the hanging basket on these as I really like the look of the long vines hanging over the edge of the pot.

They are fairly easy to propagate. Take a cutting between the nodes – the place where the leaves grow out from. Trim this and put it in soil. Keep this in a moist and humid environment. Before long, there will be new growth tips emerging from the node. At that point, start adding some fertilizer to really kick things into gear. These plants adapt well to growing in our typical home environment, but they do not like it super dry. They tend to grow larger leaves in more humid environments, so think about putting one in the bathroom near the shower.

There are some fabulous new varieties of these plants, but because they are not as common yet therefore somewhat tricky to find. It seems there are new varieties coming to market more frequently now. Many of them are variations on the amount of silver in the leaves, or the pattern the silver coloration makes. There are two main species regularly offered so far in the trade. Scindapsus pictus, which has more of a round leaf, and Scindapsus treubii, which has more of an elongated, narrow leaf. There are more species, and I am sure we will see the “house friendly” ones coming to market in the future.

S. treubii has a beautiful form called ‘Moonlight.’ It is a nice silver leaf with a green stripe down the middle. This contrast produces a truly is a gorgeous plant when it gets larger. There is a new variety called ‘Dark Form,’ which has almost black leaves. I can’t wait to get this one! All of the other varieties I will talk about are of the S. pictus species. The first is ‘Silvery Ann.’ It is a green leaf with silver specs, squares, or blotches, but not too many. It really makes a nice looking, unique plant. ‘Silver Satin’ has an intense, broad silver coloration on top of a green leaf. The variety “Mount Salak’ has much less intense silver, with some leaves having almost a light green color instead. Its mottled color looks great over the green leaf as well. My all-time new favorite is ‘Platinum.’ I found this one unlabeled in a big box store recently. What a beautiful color! Although on its own it is tempting to think the plant boring, but place it into a collection of green house plants and this one really shines! Why not add some Scindapsus to your plant collection?

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at  extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

Weed Them and Reap!

Posted on June 13, 2026June 15, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Low-growing plant with reddish stems and small, thick oval green leaves spreading across dry soil and mulch, resembling a common garden weed like purslane. — Purslane. Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

By now the vegetables and flower beds should be pretty well planted and plants starting to establish themselves. Despite many of our best efforts, a new crop of weeds is also attempting to get established. These garden pests compete for light, water and nutrients. They also may harbor or attract insects that prey on our plants. If left to their own devices, they can crowd out our desirable specimens reducing the air flow and leading to conditions more conducive to disease.

Weeds are generally sorted into 4 categories: perennial, biennial, winter annuals and summer annuals. There’s a good chance that you removed any winter annuals as you prepared your planting areas. These plants typically germinate in the fall, overwinter, bloom in early spring and set seed. They include weeds such as annual bluegrass, chickweed and shepherd’s purse.

Perennial weeds include dandelions, burdock, thistle and plantains while Queen Anne’s lace and garlic mustard are some biennial ones. Usually, the summer annual weeds are most prevalent in recently planted vegetable and flower beds. Some examples are lambsquarters, galinsoga, purslane, crabgrass and ragweed.

You have probably heard the expression ‘A year’s worth of seeding is worth 7 years weeding’ or something along that line. Weed seeds can last a long time in the soil with purslane and dandelion seeds remaining viable up to 20 years and pigweed up to 40 years. So even letting a few weed plants go to seed will have you pulling up their progeny for quite some time.

What’s a gardener to do? The key to weed control is to stay ahead of them. Take them out when they are small and shallow rooted. For areas that are pretty much bare soil, like around vegetable plants, a small handheld hoe or cobra head weeder works great on patches of newly germinated weeds that are too tiny to pull by hand. For larger gardens, maybe a taller blade or stirrup hoe would be a good tool to have on hand.

I will admit to spending a lot of time on my hands and knees weeding. While this may be not practical for everyone, it gives you a chance to get up close and personal with both the weeds as well as your garden plants so you can see, for example, if any squash vine borers are attacking your squash or pumpkins or if your radishes are ready to be harvested or if that row of bean seeds has yet to germinate.

Mulch can be a gardener’s best friend. The key is to match the mulch to the garden. For vegetable gardens, straw mulches, shredded leaves or untreated grass clippings work well as they degrade over the season adding organic matter to the soil and feeding the bacterial microbes that are most active and essential in agricultural type soils. While many people use plastic, weed fabric or cardboard to keep weeds down, these have been shown to have negative effects on soil health. The benefits may outweigh the costs for commercial growers but for the home gardener, healthy soils mean healthy plants. Plus carboard, especially corrugated pieces often contains contaminants.

For perennial flower beds, I like the look of cocoa shell (if you don’t have dogs that would eat them) or buckwheat hull mulches. They set off your perennial foliage and flowering plants at a better scale than larger bark mulches, nugget mulches or woodchips do. The problem with these being they are not always easy to find or cheap. For trees and shrubs, coarser wood or bark mulches would be appropriate. The bottom line for mulches, is that regardless of which one you chose, it will help to keep weeds down.

In certain situations, the use of an organically certified (OMRI) herbicide might be helpful. There are a number of products on the market that contain essential oils, like clove or citrus, sodium or ammonium derivatives or even acetic acid (vinegar). I find them handy for high populations of just germinating weed seeds before planting or in pathways between rows. The tiny weeds are killed quickly especially on a sunny day.

Two things to consider when purchasing these products are that they typically do not kill the roots of larger established weeds. The top will generally die back but the roots are still alive and will resprout. The other thing is these organic weedkillers are non-selective meaning they can kill any plant they are sprayed on.

However, you choose to remove them, persistence and regular scouting will keep weeds to a minimum. Because the seeds can be in the soil, be transported when purchasing compost or plants, can blow in from the neighbor’s garden or even be moved by animals and people, weeds will always find a way into your gardens and it’s your job to keep them out.

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Start Scouting Now for this Common CT Garden Pest

Posted on June 7, 2026June 9, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Close-up of a split green squash stem revealing orange plant tissue and a pale, grub-like larva inside, with soil visible in the background.Provide your feedback on BizChat — SVB larvae inside of a zucchini stem. Photo by H. Zidack

The Squash Vine Borer (SVB) is a red-orange and black winged insect. They emerge in early to mid-summer and lay their eggs at the base of squash stems. When those eggs hatch, larvae emerge and bore their way into the plant stem, continuing to eat your squash plants from the inside out until they are ready to pupate. Gardeners may not even notice their presence until they see squash plants wilting in the summer heat. Upon even closer inspection, a yellow, sawdust like appearance and entry hole at the base of the stem is often found. Once this is observed, it is often too late. While early June may feel too early to start scouting for these guys, it’s the perfect time to start planning defensive strategies to help protect your garden.

The first thing you can do, especially if you have a history with these insects, is select resistant cultivars. Knowing which types of squash are common targets can help you determine whether you will want to keep a closer eye on them this season, or maybe plant something different, altogether.

Cucurbita pepo is highly susceptible to Squash Vine Borer. This species includes Zucchini and summer squash. They have thin, hollow stems, which make it easy for these critters to get into. Pumpkins are also in this category. However, pumpkins are more likely to vine out and lay roots along the stems touching the soil surface. This helps the plant to withstand damage a bit better than its other counterparts.

Cucurbita maxima, which includes winter squash like giant pumpkins, Kabocha and Blue Hubbard varieties, is also susceptible to the SVB. While it is less preferred than C. pepo, it can still be targeted.

Cucurbita moschata is the most resistant plant species. C. moschata includes the butternut, honeynut and crookneck squashes. Their stems are thicker and more succulent, making them least favorable for the SVB to lay eggs on. Therefore, while not impossible, they stand a good chance against this garden pest. These insects are also rarely found in cucumbers and melons.

It is important to rotate your planting sites each year. These insects overwinter as pupae in the soil and emerge as adults in June-July. Planting in the same place each season is like placing a gift on their front doorstep. Moving your planting site and adding a protective row cover as soon as you plant can improve your odds at keeping the SVB away from your plants altogether. Leave the row cover until both male and female flowers begin to emerge. After that it is important to remove the row covers so pollinators can access the flowers.

For gardeners unable to rotate their gardens, preventative measures can still be taken. Do not use row covers as they can trap the pest in with your plants. Some recommend placing aluminum foil around the first couple inches of stem at the soil line to prevent insects from laying eggs and boring through stem tissue. Treating the base of the plants with a preventative pesticide may also be effective.

Chemical management is often tricky with these pests, and home gardeners may not feel it is worth the effort. Importantly, chemical management is no longer effective once the larvae have entered the stems, since they are then protected by the plants. In addition, these products can impact the pollinators visiting your cucurbits, so it’s important to carefully consider the full impact of chemical management. Always read the label in full and follow all instructions as prescribed.

Start scouting for the adults early. In mid to late June, check the base of stems for eggs and early boring damage. You may even see the adult insects flying around. Symptoms, like wilting, often begin in late June and become more common in July.

If you have a strong stomach and sense of adventure, you can carefully slice into the stem to try to find the larvae and extract it. Vining squash species may recover if the pest is removed and portions of vine are then buried in the soil, allowing new roots to take over and support the vine.

Alternatively, removing affected plants entirely and disposing of them in the trash may help to break the life cycle and remove pests from your garden for future seasons.

Since these insects typically only have one generation per year, your hard work does have a finish line. Paying extra attention and working to manage the SVB in early summer will allow your squash to grow healthy for the rest of the season. A second crop of summer squash can be planted in July, once adults are no longer out and laying eggs. This second crop should be unaffected by the SVB and produce healthy squash for your family to enjoy!

Wet and Wild: the Complex Lives of Cedar Rust Fungi

Posted on May 30, 2026June 9, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Orange, gelatinous cedar apple rust gall attached to a green cedar or juniper branch, with scaly bark visible in the background. — The telial horns observed on this Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) are beginning to dry up, but their gelatinous form and bold orange color are unmistakable.

We all know that old saying, “April showers bring May fungi!” (No? Just me?). All joking aside, you may have noticed that the recent wet spring weather lead many fungi to break dormancy, release spores, and wind up in new places. While growers and gardeners often find themselves preparing for the season by promoting airflow between plants, increasing soil drainage, and applying preventive fungicides when really needed, it’s hard to deny the spectacle of spring fungi and the beauty they bring to our spring gardens; and few are as spectacular as cedar rusts (Again, only me?)!

Cedar rusts are flashy diseases caused by multiple species of the fungi in the genus Gymnosporangium. In the case of cedar apple rust, a disease we see all the time here in Connecticut, the causal agent is the fungus Gymnosporangium juniper-virginianae. Gymnosporangium is a group of heteroecious fungi, meaning that they require two hosts to complete their life cycles. Species within the Juniperus genus are primary hosts of cedar rusts with plants such as apple, crabapple, hawthorn, or quince usually serving as a secondary host, though close relatives such as pear or chokeberry may occasionally be seen with cedar rust.

Spores – small reproductive structures produced by fungi – are released from fungal structures to infect other hosts. Cedar rusts, attention seekers that they are, utilize multiple types of spores to get to their host plants of choice. Beginning with the secondary hosts in late summer, spores called aeciospores are produced and distributed by wind and rain, traveling to inoculate nearby juniper trees. Wet, mild weather in early fall creates the perfect conditions for these aeciospores to germinate, eventually resulting in the formation of large galls on the primary host.

Juniper galls are irregularly shaped structures on the plant and range in color from gray to dark red. Circular indentations are present on the gall’s surface, through which bizarre looking telial horns protrude in the spring the year after the host is first inoculated with the disease. These structures are first colored dark brown and have a dry appearance but later become gelatinous and bright orange as they mature and expand for a brief time during moist spring conditions. The surfaces of telial horns are coated in teliospores which later germinate to form the next important player in the cedar apple rust disease cycle, basidiospores. After releasing spores, the telial horns will dry up and fall off. The basidiospores are then distributed by wind and rain to inoculate secondary hosts such as apples or crabapples. Immature leaves with wet surfaces are the most susceptible targets for infection.

The next stage of the disease cycle kicks off with yellow-orange lesions that appear on the upper surfaces of leaves. A halo of red tissue may surround the edges of these spots, giving a dramatic bullseye appearance. Tiny, raised, fungal structures known as pycnia develop within the leaf lesions and on fruit surfaces. Pycnia produce pycniospores (notice a theme here?), which leads to the development of aecia during mid-summer. Yellow or brown lesions appear on the underside of leaves, from which the tubular aecia and of course, their aeciospore-covered surface, protrudes. During late summer under dry environmental conditions, aeciospores are released and travel to nearby juniper hosts where the disease cycle begins again.

You might be thinking, “enough with the spore-talk! What should I do about cedar rusts if I see signs of them?” Rest easy - although cedar rust fungi are complex and dramatic, they typically don’t cause lasting harm, and there are plenty of management strategies available to mitigate their damage. Pruning can be used to promote airflow and eliminate galls from junipers before telial horns have an opportunity to develop, and appropriate fungicides may be applied to secondary hosts as a preventative measure. And for those thinking of purchasing a new tree, know that many apple and crabapple cultivars are available at the nursery with various levels of resistance to cedar rust.

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Chaos Gardening

Posted on May 24, 2026May 27, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Sunlit meadow filled with tall green grasses and scattered wildflowers, including small pink, yellow, and white blooms, with dense shrubs and trees in the background. — Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Chaos gardening is a growing social media trend that encourages gardeners to relinquish control, scatter assorted seeds, step back, and see what happens. Instead of carefully spacing plants and planning layouts, chaos gardeners toss seeds and let nature decide what grows where. The results can vary widely, ranging from a surprising assortment of plants to a patch of disappointment.

Unlike traditional gardening, this approach emphasizes spontaneity over structure. For many, the appeal lies in its simplicity. Chaos gardening is easy to start, requires minimal knowledge, and often relies on leftover or inexpensive seed packets. The low-stakes, experimental nature makes it especially attractive to busy people or those new to gardening.

Still, the trend raises valid questions. Without site preparation or ongoing care, how well can seeds establish? And does “letting go” invite weeds into the garden under the guise of wildscaping?

In practice, chaos gardening often produces mixed results. While the concept is appealingly simple, success rates can be low, and plantings may struggle to persist long term. Still, gardeners interested in the trend can improve their chances of success by following a few simple suggestions.

Avoid using this approach in large or prominent spaces. Start small, either in a container or a less visible area of the yard. To maintain a sense of experimentation, while increasing success, consider focusing on a single species at a time or scattering spring bulbs through an existing lawn. Tossing out a packet of “wildflower” seeds may sound charming, but it will not produce an instant, picture-perfect meadow. More often, it results in a steadfast patch of mugwort.

Even with a relaxed approach, a bit of planning goes a long way. Key factors such as sunlight and soil conditions still matter. The principle of “right plant, right place” applies regardless of gardening style. Identifying site conditions, selecting appropriate species, and preparing the planting bed can significantly improve outcomes.

Gardeners should also approach seed mixes labeled “wildflower,” “pollinator-friendly,” or “native” with some caution. While not inherently problematic, these mixes can contain species that are poorly suited to local conditions. A quick review of the species on the list can help inform decisions about whether the plants are suited to the region or growing conditions.

Learning how to recognize seedlings, including common weeds and invasive plants, is another important step. Early identification allows gardeners to remove undesirable species before they establish. Observing which plants succeed can also guide future efforts, gradually transforming a disorderly patch into a more reliable and productive space.

Patience is essential. Many perennials grown from seed take more than one season to flower. Including a mix of annuals and perennials can help maintain visual interest while longer-lived plants establish. As with any gardening method, some trial and error is expected.

Chaos gardening may never replace traditional approaches, but it offers an accessible entry point for beginners and a creative outlet for experienced growers. With a balance of spontaneity and informed decision-making, even an unstructured planting can become a living experiment.

What to Know Before You Buy Topsoil

Posted on May 17, 2026May 19, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

The word topsoil suggests rich, dark earth that will fix most of what ails a yard. Maybe the lawn never recovered after construction, a new raised bed needs filling, or a bare patch by the driveway still looks more like gravel than garden. Buying a load of topsoil seems like a simple answer to all three.

But "topsoil" is not a guarantee of quality. Depending on the source, it may be dense, low in organic matter, full of stones, or simply a poor match for the job you have in mind. That means homeowners should buy it with a clear idea of what it can and cannot do.

The first question is not what to buy, but what problem you are trying to solve. If the real issue is low pH, low fertility, or some other imbalance, another load of soil may not help much. A soil test is an inexpensive way to check pH and nutrient levels before you start adding products.

If you are filling a new raised bed, topsoil alone is usually not the best answer. A blend of topsoil and finished compost works better than straight compost or straight mineral soil, because the two materials do different jobs. Topsoil provides mineral content, structure, and weight. Compost adds organic matter, holds moisture, and improves tilth. Most unamended topsoil is low in organic matter, which is why a topsoil-compost blend is usually more useful for gardens and landscapes.

There is no state-run topsoil grading or certification system in Connecticut, so buyers have to ask a few questions on their own. Where did the soil come from? Has it been screened? Is it meant for lawn repair, general grading, or a vegetable garden? Is compost already mixed in, and if so, how much? These answers matter because soil products are not interchangeable: material sold for grading can be fine for filling low spots but a poor choice for a vegetable bed.

It is also worth thinking about what might come along for the ride. Poorly sourced soil can carry contaminants that are not obvious to the eye, including residues from past land use. Ask the supplier about the soil's origin, and if there is reason for concern, have it tested for lead or pesticide residues before planting. If the product includes compost, ask whether it comes from a reputable testing program, such as the U.S. Composting Council's Seal of Testing Assurance, which requires routine testing for heavy metals and pathogens. There is a biological concern as well. Invasive jumping worms and their cocoons can hitch a ride in soil, compost, mulch, and potted plants, so buying from reputable sources and using heat-treated compost or mulch when possible can help reduce that risk.

Texture is another simple check. If the material feels sticky and heavy when wet, it may seal up and drain poorly. If it feels very light, peaty, or woody, it may settle quickly after a season or two. Good garden soil, or a good topsoil-compost blend, should crumble easily, drain reasonably well, and still hold moisture. It should smell earthy, not sour or strongly ammonia-like.

Cost deserves a clear-eyed look as well. Bulk soil is usually cheaper than bagged soil and creates less plastic waste, but the cheapest load may not be the best buy if it leaves you with hard, low-organic-matter material that won't support plant growth well.

There is one more caution, mainly for gardeners who refresh beds every year. Building organic matter in a tired soil is a good idea, but more compost and manure are not always better over the long run. Repeated heavy additions, especially of manure-based compost, can push phosphorus levels well above what plants can use. That is a problem for water quality if the soil erodes, and it can throw off the balance of other nutrients. A periodic soil test is the best way to know whether a bed actually needs more material.

For most homeowners, the best results come from matching the material to the job. Test first if you can. Use topsoil for structure and volume, compost for organic matter, and each where it makes sense. For a raised bed, start with a soil-compost blend. To repair a lawn after construction, plan to build organic matter over time with compost, mulch, and returning grass clippings or shredded leaves to the soil. When buying from a bulk supplier, ask questions before the truck shows up.

Topsoil can be a useful tool, but it is still only one ingredient. Better soil is built, not delivered in a single truckload.

Solitary Wasps Found in the Landscape and Garden

Posted on May 9, 2026May 19, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Solitary wasps are primarily hunting wasps which are either digger wasps or thread-waisted wasps. Most are seldom aggressive toward people because they are not defending a social colony. Instead, females are busy hunting other insects or arthropods to stock cells for a single larva to feed upon as they develop. Many solitary wasps dig nesting chambers in sandy soils, like the cicada killer and the great golden digger wasps. Others may use hollow pipes, tubes, window ledges or even sliding door tracks (a favorite site for the grass-carrying wasp).

Many of these wasps are also considered decent pollinators. They are active from June through late summer. The adult wasps die during the year and larvae generally pupate and emerge the following year. Females hunt specific prey such as caterpillars, katydids, cicadas and other insects which they paralyze and stock the nesting chamber with. An egg is laid on or near these future meals, and the larva will feed on them as it develops.

The great golden digger wasp, Sphex icheneumoneus, is a large wasp that sports golden hairs on the head and thorax and has a distinctive half orange half black abdomen. It is harmless to people and is often found on flowers in or near sandy soils where it digs nests for larvae in the ground. Main prey for larvae is katydids.

Great golden digger wasp with orange legs and a dark body standing on green, spiky flower clusters. — Great Golden Digger Wasp. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

The Eastern Cicada killer, Sphecius speciosus, is one of the largest wasps in North America. It has amber wings and females are most evident in late July and early August as they burrow into sandy soils, leaving behind a squared off entrance and a sandy mound. Deep inside underground, the females have dragged paralyzed cicadas upon which they lay an egg. The larva will hatch and eat the paralyzed cicada. Next summer, after having pupated underground, the adults emerge. The females rarely sting but do alarm many homeowners due to their size and activity in lawns and along sidewalks.

Large black-and-cream wasp perched on green, finely cut leaves in bright sunlight. — Cicada Killer. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Grass carrying wasps Isodontia spp. create cells from grasses collected by the female. Each cell is stocked with paralyzed tree crickets, katydids and other orthoptera insects. Often packed together, these nesting cells can be found on windowsills, on bases of slider doors and on upper window ledges. Larvae overwinter in these cells and emerge as adults the following year or later that same year if there are two generations.

The oak apple gall wasp Amphibolips spp female lays an egg inside the tissue of an oak leaf inside which the larvae will hatch. The apple-like gall forms as a response to secretions from the larvae as it feeds on the leaf tissue safely inside. The gall turns brown after the adult wasp emerges. No damage is done to the oak. Cutting open the gall when green will reveal the wasp larva in the center.

Potter Wasp, Eumenes fraternus, females construct a small, rounded clay structure with a neck-like protuberance with a flattened top that makes it look like a tiny pot. After laying a single egg inside the female puts some paralyzed caterpillars and beetle larvae which the larva will eat. She seals the small opening with mud, which will be chewed open when the adult emerges next year. These tiny pots can be found on plants, rocks, pieces of wood and other places.

Solitary wasps pose little risk to us as they go about completing their life’s work. Defending nests is not a behavior such as is done by social wasps and hornets. Females will sting if handled or alarmed though, so avoid doing that. If digger wasps make you nervous, consider amending sandy soil with organic matter and keeping it moist when females are looking to excavate nesting chambers. Try to tolerate them for the short period of time they are active. Almost all can be found obtaining nectar from flowers in the wild and in cultivated landscapes.

A Familiar Bloom in a Season of Change

Posted on May 3, 2026May 19, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Light purple lilac blossoms on a shrub in a mulched garden bed. — Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Spring is the ultimate bringer of change. The restless souls contained within all forms of life begin to awaken, bringing fiery hues back to the formerly dreary expanse of winter landscapes. We meet this shift with a warm welcome, grateful for a chance to start anew. Innately, we crave change, constantly striving towards something greater that will fill a part of ourselves we feel is missing. Also, innately, we are walking juxtapositions. Above our desire for change floats an asterisk, denoting an extraneous condition—our deep fear of the very thing which we wish so desperately for. New experiences bring about uncertainty and inconsistency. Thus, we cling to that which we find familiar and trustworthy to ground us while careening through the unknown.

For me, ol’ reliable is the lilac shrub in my backyard. Season after season, I look out my window and am reassured by its presence, whether it is flush with vibrant blooms or displaying its tall barren branches. The leaf and flower buds of common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) are among the first whispers of spring I observe, appearing early in the season.

Members of the olive family, Oleaceae, lilacs are well suited to life in cold climates—in fact, the chill of winter is essential to their bud development and maturation. Although new plantings take a few years to adjust and establish themselves, these perennial shrubs are equipped with substantial longevity. Common lilacs can live for up to a century, cementing their place as a companion to rely on during every phase of our lives.

Common lilacs grow rapidly and immodestly, filling their landscape with a dominating sense of confidence. Success is dependent on being planted in sunny locations with moist, well-drained, and neutral to slightly alkaline pH soils.

The lilac’s blooms are dichotomous, both quietly delicate and also boisterous with a showstopping flair. Flowers emerge between late April and early May. A strong, sweet fragrance diffuses from the quaint petals which cluster together in formations called panicles. Lilac blooms appear in a variety of hues, ranging from lavender to blush pink or even a creamy white.

Even after the flowers of lilacs retire, matte heart-shaped leaves remain until the fall, painting the tall shrubs with dark green. During the dormancy of winter, gray stems and branches are visible, standing tall and proud even when cold weather casts its icy shadow over the once vibrant landscape.

Lilacs are relatively self-sufficient yet require some care and attention to maintain their vigor. Susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew and septoria/pseudocercospora leaf spot, it is important to ensure proper airflow throughout plantings to discourage sporulation. Powdery mildew is characterized by gray mycelial growth on leaf surfaces, while septoria/pseudocercospora leaf spot appears as brown spots that expand into broad patches. Insect pests, namely the lilac borer and oystershell scale, also impose their will on lilacs. Borers tunnel and weave through branches, leaving holes and open wounds as evidence of their travels. Oystershell scale refers to small insects, resembling their namesake in appearance, that take refuge on lilac bark. These pests and diseases can commonly be managed through removal and destruction of damaged tissue. In severe cases, additional integrated pest management strategies may be necessary.

Consistent pruning practices are essential for lilacs to remain healthy throughout every season of change. Lilacs are beings of extreme preparation, developing next year’s buds as soon as the current flowering period is complete. By deadheading blooms promptly after they have run their course, lilacs are able to dedicate more energy to generating healthy flowers for future growing seasons. Renewal pruning is another beneficial technique—cutting back overgrown stems to remove barriers preventing light from reaching inner branches. This encourages new growth and results in lilacs which appear fuller, bursting with color from the inside out. Spring is the most appropriate time to employ these pruning tactics in accordance with lilac’s growing needs. Prune immediately after flowers start to fade for best results.

Lilacs are a cornerstone of spring, providing a familiar and reassuring sight to ground us when our own lives become unrecognizable. Lilacs and the endless wonders of spring gently remove the asterisk from our desire for change, reminding us to take solace in the familiar while welcoming all that the unknown may bring.

Keep Your Seedlings Going Strong!

Posted on April 26, 2026April 28, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

So, you started your seeds, have been watching them attentively, and spring is knocking at the door. It’s still a little too early to put some things outside, but overzealous gardeners may find themselves swimming in seedlings that need management. Consider taking these steps to help you and your seedlings find a comfortable compromise as they wait to go outdoors.

If you haven’t done so already, thinning your seedlings is an important step in ensuring that the plants you put in the ground will be robust and strong. As a fellow gardener, I’m familiar with the pain of disposing of “perfectly good seedlings.” However, this isn’t an entirely true belief. Seedlings that are not thriving in optimum conditions, may be indicating to you that they aren’t strong for planting in the garden.

Thinning prevents crowding and allows for more air flow between seedlings. When crowded, seedlings compete for water, nutrition, light, and space. By thinning, we ensure that plants have enough resources to grow healthy. Thinning also helps to encourage airflow, which can reduce the risk of fungal development. Fungal pathogens can lead to issues like “damping off,” and other plant diseases that put your seedlings at risk.

You may decide to thin your plants by snipping out weaker seedlings at the base. If you have the heart, the patience and the amount of valuable bench space to dedicate to extra seedling trays or containers, you may decide to carefully tease apart seedlings and replant them for one last chance.

Green watering can on a small table surrounded by trays of seedlings on a wooden deck. — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Your strongest seedlings should be potted up into a larger container to encourage them to continue to grow. Putting seedlings into 3- or 4-inch pots (or recycled plastic cups with holes in the bottom) gives them a little bit extra wiggle room while we wait out these temperature fluctuations of a New England spring. Extra space for the root zone will allow the plants to continue to expand. More roots mean more water and nutrient uptake, leading to healthy growth. This practice may also help reduce watering needs on your part, since there is more media to hold moisture in the root zone.

Are your tomato seedlings getting leggy? You can bury the stems of the tomato seedlings to help promote adventitious root development. Remove the cotyledons and any small leaves that you intend to bury below the soil line. Make sure to leave at least one third of the plant’s total height above the soil line to continue healthy growth.

To this point, our seedlings have grown in optimum conditions, or as close to optimum as we’ve been able to provide. Not only have these conditions been ideal, they’ve also been consistent. When your plants get out to the garden, the new environment may be shocking. Hardening off is a process of transitioning them from their ideal growing conditions, into a more realistic environment. Any plant, whether it is a new seedling, a beloved houseplant, or a sheltered patio tropical, needs this transition when moving from inside to outside.

Take your plants on “field trips” during warm spring days by placing them outside in a location with bright, indirect light. Full sun may be too strong for seedlings that have been acclimating with grow lights or through sunny windows so introduce direct light incrementally.

Using cold frames can help to transition your plants from indoors to outdoors. These small, unheated enclosures use the sun’s energy to store heat like a greenhouse. This helps to reduce the drastic temperature swing of nightfall and insulate plants from frosts during the temperamental spring season. Crack them open during warm days for ventilation and to help start reducing humidity.

When conditions are right for hardening off and planting your seedlings, continue to monitor weather conditions. Late spring in New England has been known to throw us a cold snap or two. If frost/freeze warnings occur, bring in potted plants and use a frost cover or breathable fabric to cover in-ground plants as frost protection. Garden stakes will help keep fabric from directly touching your plants and help create a warm air pocket around them to survive those incidental cold nights.

Spring in New England is a season of transition. Warm days may signal planting time, but cool nights and shifting conditions remind us to move forward carefully. By thinning crowded seedlings, giving roots room to grow, and easing plants gradually into outdoor conditions, gardeners can help reduce stress and build resilience. A little patience and flexibility now can pay off with healthier transplants, stronger growth, and a more successful garden as the season continues to unfold.

Starting Raised Beds

Posted on April 14, 2026April 22, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

There are many styles of raised beds to choose from, depending on your needs. Raised beds exist on a spectrum, ranging from framed boxes above ground to unframed, elevated planting mounds. When planning new raised beds, both types have specific considerations to keep in mind.

Mounded Raised Beds

Mounded raised beds are created by mounding existing soil or adding additional material so the planting area sits above ground level. This method works well on compacted sites, in poorly drained areas, or on top of heavy clay soils.

Most mounded raised beds do not have a barrier between the ground and the mound. However, if you are wish to start a raised bed over lawn, cardboard can be placed underneath the mounded soil to smother the grass. If you use cardboard, it is best to allow it to decompose for a few months before planting. This will allow plant roots to grow freely into the soil below rather than being blocked by the cardboard layer.

The bed can be built using soil already on site, by mounding soil from the paths or edges into the bed. Alternatively, you can bring in topsoil and compost to create the beds. Any imported soil or compost should be free of pathogens, contaminants, and invasive weeds. Mounded raised beds are not tilled, and walking on the mound will compact the soil, so foot traffic should be avoided. These beds may need to be reshaped or re-mounded annually. Soil tests can be taken every two to three years, then apply amendments added as needed.

Framed Raised Beds

Two empty wooden raised garden beds placed on a grassy field, spaced apart and framed with light-colored lumber. — Framed raised beds. Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Framed raised beds offer many of the same benefits as mounded beds, along with additional structure and accessibility. A framed raised bed is more contained than an in-ground bed and can be made of wood, metal, or pavers. These beds are well suited for compacted or poorly drained sites, locations with contaminated soil, or in gardens designed to improve accessibility for people with limited mobility.

Raised bed depth can vary depending on the intended use. Some beds are only a few inches deep, while others may be up to 2 feet. Gardeners who use wheelchairs or who have difficulty bending may want to consider an elevated or deeper bed. Most annual vegetables require 12 to 18 inches of soil depth, root vegetables will require greater depth. Length and width can also vary based on site conditions, but a width of about an arm’s length is generally recommended for easy planting, harvesting, and weeding.

Prefabricated wood or metal beds can be purchased, or you can build your own using lumber. Cedar is often preferred over pine because it lasts longer, although it is more expensive. Use caution when considering repurposed or pressure-treated wood. Before 2004, pressure-treated lumber was treated with copper, chromium, and arsenic, which could leach into the soil. If pressure-treated wood is used, make sure it is labeled for ground contact. Whenever possible, choose untreated or naturally rot-resistant materials.

A good soil mix for framed raised beds is about one-half to two-thirds topsoil and one-third to one-half aged compost. This can require a large amount of material and may be costly depending on the size of the bed. Buying bulk topsoil by the cubic yard is usually less expensive than purchasing bags of raised bed mix. For smaller beds, bagged raised bed mix may be more practical. Avoid using free fill or topsoil from unfamiliar sources, as these may contain contaminants, invasive weeds, or invasive jumping worms.

To save money on filling a raised bed, some gardeners use hügelkultur, a method that fills the lower portion of the bed with logs, sticks, leaves, grass clippings, or kitchen scraps before adding topsoil and compost on top. Larger materials are placed in the bottom then followed by smaller organic materials overtop. Over time, the bulky material breaks down and enriches the soil. Because the material settles as it decomposes, additional topsoil and compost may need to be added annually.

Plant Choice

Annual plants are generally better suited to raised beds than perennials or shrubs. Extreme temperature fluctuations in raised beds are not ideal for overwintering perennials, and the need to periodically add more soil makes raised beds better suited to annual crops.

Care and Maintenance of Raised Beds

Both mounded and framed raised beds dry out faster than in-ground gardens, so supplemental irrigation is usually needed throughout the growing season. Weed pressure may be minimal, but regular weeding will still be necessary. Raised beds should be mulched to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.

The paths between raised beds can be planted in turf, covered with wood chips, topped with crushed gravel, or left as bare ground. Keep in mind that paths between mounded beds may need to be mowed or weeded regularly. They will also likely become compacted over time due to foot traffic.

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