Author: Zidack, Heather

Apple Picking, Leave the Leaves, Jack-O-Lanterns & other October News

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October is for Picking Apples, Fall Cleanup and Jack-O-Lanterns

"October is the month for painted leaves.... As fruits and leaves and the day itself acquire a bright tint just before they fall, so the year near its setting. October is its sunset sky; November the later twilight." 

-Henry David Thoreau "Autumnal Tints"

 

Going Apple Picking? These tips Are Just for You!

We're well into apple season here in Connecticut! With a few weeks left there is still time to get local apples and spend a day out with the family. UConn Fruit Specialist, Evan Lentz, from the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture and UConn Extension, created a fantastic guide to help you find the perfect apple in the orchard!

Fun Facts:

  • Apples come in early, middle, and late season varieties and many orchards will plant a large selection to give you plenty of time to get out and enjoy the experience!
  • If you're considering growing apples at home, you will need at least two trees that are two different varieties and flower at the same time!
  • To keep plants shorter for easier access to pick fruit, many apple trees are grafted. The upper portion, known as the scion, will give you. your desired type of fruit. The lower portion or root stock helps to determine the ultimate size of the tree. If suckers are allowed to develop, the apples that they produce could be entirely different!

A guide to Apple Picking in Connecticut

Leave the Leaves: Let's Clear it Up!

Leaves in the perennial garden
Photo by H. Zidack

At this time of year, we see the same question in many forms:

  • Should I clean my garden now?
  • What is your opinion on "leave the leaves?"
  • Is it better to clean up your garden in the spring or fall?

In essence, many gardeners seek guidance on what the best move to make is for cleaning up their gardens. In reality, the "best" decision can be different for different gardeners. These are the considerations we want to bring to mind:

Reasons to Leave Plant Debris/Leaf Litter

  • Create a haven for insects and wildlife to overwinter in
  • Provide a layer of organic matter/natural mulch in your garden beds
  • You have more time for garden chores in the spring
  • Plants with sensitive crowns may be better if left alone over the winter and managed in the spring
  • Late blooming plants may still be in flower, or ornamental seed heads provide winter interest for your garden space

If You Do "Leave the Leaves"

  • Mulch or shred leaves that will be left on the lawn to break down. This causes them to release nutrients into the soil at a faster pace and gives plants below a chance to find sunlight in the spring
  • If unable to mulch your leaves, do not leave more than an inch or two of fully intact leaves. Thicker leaves will hold moisture and encourage disease or smother plant material below. They are also slower to break down and will need to be managed in the spring.
  • Monitor for pests like jumping worms in leaf piles
  • Monitor closely next growing season for signs of pest and disease and manage as soon as possible!

When you SHOULD clean up in the fall:

  • Your garden has experienced fungal disease or significant pest damage
    • Sanitation is a least-toxic method of control when it comes to managing garden pest problems.
    • Many fungal spores and vegetable targeting insects will overwinter in the leaf pile alongside beneficial insects. If you have had a particularly damaging year, it may be in your best interest to remove that leaf litter and plant debris from your property.
  • There are plants (perennials & ornamental grasses, in particular) along your foundation or in other areas of your property that could encourage undesired rodent damage?
    • There's no doubt that rodents and small mammals need a home to overwinter in, but by removing possible shelters early in the fall, they will be encouraged to move elsewhere before the real cold sets in.
  • Trees or shrubs on your property have experienced girdling or rodent damage before.
    • ​​​​​​​Building up leaves to insulate plants can be great! However, if past trials of this have resulted in damage to the stems or trunks, you may want to reconsider this method.

Keep Your Jack-O-Lanterns Fresh!

Collection of Jack O Lanterns
Photos by Pamm Cooper and H. Zidack

Everyone loves to carve a pumpkin! Jack-O-Lanterns (which were originally carved from turnips), are a festive tradition that many of us enjoy!

And whether you're a skilled artist or a spirited novice, keeping your jack-o-lantern fresh for the season is important! Learn about the traditions of the Jack-O-Lantern and how to keep yours well preserved at the links below!

Origins of the Jack-O-Lantern

Presesrve Your Jack-O-Lantern

 Plant Highlight: Monkshood

Monkshood

Monkshood, also called helmet flower and wolfsbane, is a deer-resistant non-aggressive, non-invasive non-native perennial that flowers in late summer-October here in Connecticut. The flowers are a striking deep, dark purple blue on upright spikes. It can used in cut flower arrangements. This is a good plant for shade conditions.

Learn More About Monkshood

Wildlife Highlight: Birds Are On the Move!

Palm Warbler

The Palm Warbler is a small warbler that forages primarily for insects. They will eat seeds and berries if available. These little birds migrate through our area in the spring and fall! Like a Phoebe, they are known for their characteristic tail wagging when they rest.

Late September is the beginning of migration to warmer climates of many species of birds that pass through Connecticut. Cornell University has many helpful fact sheets and other bird information tools that cover birds either breeding in or migrating through the North. 

Learn More About Palm Warblers

Cornell Birdwatching

Birdcast - Migration Forecasts

Vegetable Gardening Resources

During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

9/13/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

Read Previous Pest Messages

New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024

UConn Fruit Update

The UConn Fruit Program publishes a fruit update, very similar to the IPM Vegetable Pest Alert. If you keep fruit trees, this may be a valuable resource for you! If you ever need help understanding how to apply these principles to your own home garden, let us know!

Read the Latest UConn Fruit Update

New England Tree Fruit Management Guide

October 2024 Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns in September will bring us into harvest season!

October Precipitation Outlook (NOAA)      October Temperature Outlook (NOAA)

Knowledge to Grow On

 

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

    • It's Apple Season! Visit a pick-your-own orchard, or find your favorite apple flavored treats starting this month!

        Educational Opportunities & Workshops

            CT Invasive Plant Working Group
            In-Person Symposium
            October 29th, 2024
            UConn Student Union
            Storrs, CT

            cipwg.uconn.edu

             

             

            October Gardening Tips

                    • October is still a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!
                    • Keep collecting matured seeds. Dry them out and place them in labeled brown coin envelopes within an air tight container, and store in a cool place.
                    • Mulch perennial beds using a loose organic material such as bark chips or leaves to keep down weeds, preserve moisture and give roots a longer time to grow before the soil freezes.
                    • Sketch out where you planted various vegetables in your garden back in the spring. This will come in handy next spring so when you plant, you can rotate your crops and help prevent disease. Add notes of any issues you saw this season so you don't forget to scout for them next year!
                    • Plant garlic from October 1st to November 15th. Place each clove pointed-side up at a depth of 2-4” about 6” apart.
                    • Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.
                    • Move the houseplants to their indoor locations when outdoor temperatures are consistently 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Acclamate them by moving them into an unheated mud room or garage for a couple of days before moving them into a heated house. 
                    • Renovate the lawn by thatching or aerating if needed. All seeding should be done before Oct. 4th for best results. 
                    • Watch for frost warnings and cover tender plants and pumpkins.
                    • Limit herbaceous plant material located a few feet away from the house to eliminate hiding places for insects and mice, which could wind up indoors as temperatures plummet.
                    • If rain is lacking, continue to thoroughly water trees, shrubs, planting beds, and lawn areas. It is especially important to keep newly planted evergreens watered

                    More October Gardening Tips

                    This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                    Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

                     

                    Is Early Leaf Drop an Indicator of Tree Health?

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                    By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, Plant Diagnostic Lab

                    Trees showing their autumn colors
                    Trees showing their fall colors. Photo by Nick Goltz

                    The autumnal equinox, one of two times of the year at which day and night are equal in length, just passed on Sunday the 22nd. While this point marks the astrological start of fall, many of the trees lining the roads on my drive to work (and in many of our clients’ yards) seem to want to get a head start on the season. Since late August, we’ve been getting calls from folks across Connecticut asking why the leaves on their trees are changing color and falling early. You may even be thinking, “Hey, a few of my trees are dropping their leaves early too. Is that something that can indicate how healthy they are?” In a word, maybe!

                    First, let me share the good news that, for most trees, premature color change and leaf drop doesn’t mean that they are in any immediate danger. Plants, much like humans and other animals, respond to stress differently depending on their environment and the kind of year they’ve been having. Just like we might see a little hair loss after a particularly stressful few months, trees may drop their leaves early as a response to stress. Identifying what is causing the stress however, is important when deciding if concern is warranted.

                    What type of stressors might be causing this early color change and leaf drop? For most trees, the answer is water. Connecticut and several other states in New England had a series of heavy rain events and flash flooding throughout the summer. While we’ve had hardly any rain in the land of steady habits for several weeks now, for many trees, the damage has already been done and symptoms are just appearing now. Saturated soils deprived plant roots of oxygen, damaging them and making them more susceptible to disease. Plants in especially low-lying areas, caught in floodwaters, or grown in poorly-draining clay soils likely experienced the most damage and earliest leaf drop.  Some plants may have even perished outright from the damage. Besides water, excessive heat and the increased prevalence of fungal and bacterial diseases, as well as some insect pests, may have also contributed to the stress our plants are letting us know about now.

                    So, how can you know if the early color change or leaf drop is an issue for your favorite tree or just its way of complaining about a stressful summer? When and where the leaf change and drop is occurring can help you determine if the damage is likely a normal stress response or due to something more sinister.

                    Consider when the color change and leaf drop first began. In this instance, seeing some leaves begin to change in the last week of August is less concerning than seeing them change at the end of June. Plants that have their leaves change color and drop in midsummer or earlier are most likely dealing with a disease or pest issue, rather than a stress response. I recommend you get advice for these plants by contacting the UConn Home & Garden Education Center and remove them from your garden if they are unlikely to recover.

                    Also, consider what part(s) of the canopy was affected. Conifers such as white pine drop their leaves (we usually call them needles) in response to stress too, but you will typically see this take place on the interior of the plant – the older needles that aren’t capturing much sun anymore. Branches on deciduous trees, such as oak, that are in shady spots tend to drop their leaves early too, and this is normal.

                    Branches in full sun that lose their leaves very early, while others on the tree remain fine, are a bit suspicious. Mark these branches with tape or string and monitor them carefully as the plant produces its first leaves or flowers in the spring. If these marked branches do not produce leaves or flowers with the rest of the tree, get advice (again, by contacting the folks at the UConn HGEC)! The best option is usually to cut them close to the main trunk, then disinfect your pruning tools.

                    If you’re concerned about the health of your tree, including as a result of a potential disease or pest issue, practice good fall habits to give your trees the best foot forward next spring! Clean as much leaf litter as possible and remove it from the base of trees that dropped their leaves early. If you suspect the plant is diseased or has pests, throw away these leaves or burn them before composting. For example, many plant pathogenic fungi can survive the winter on fallen leaves and reinfect healthy plant tissue the following spring. It’s also a good idea to minimize added stress for your plants. Try not to expose them to herbicides, deicing salts, fertilizers, or other chemicals until they’re looking strong again.

                    If you aren’t sure how to proceed with your fall cleanup or if you’d simply like a second opinion on your favorite tree, get free horticultural consultation from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center by emailing ladybug@uconn.edu or by calling (877) 486-6271.

                    Time to Fertilize Your Lawn

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                    By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                    A person pushing a spreader
                    Photo by dmp2024

                    While September brings with it shorter days, we still have plenty of opportunities to attend to those fall yard and garden chores. Among them is applying fertilizer to lawns. Keep in mind that for the most part, our lawns consist of cool season grasses. In a more typical year, turfgrass growth slows down during dry, hot summer weather. Up until the past few weeks, this summer had seen enough rainfall to keep lawns green and growing.

                    Turf plants take up nutrients as they grow and these need to be occasionally replenished. September through mid-October is a perfect time to do so as the cooler temperatures stimulate shoot and root growth and hopefully, some gentle fall rains will help the nutrients infiltrate the soil and reach the roots.

                    So, what kind and how much fertilizer does one need? Of course, the best way to determine that is with a soil test (www.soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu) but without a soil test, follow the directions on the fertilizer package. Whether one chooses a natural/organic or a synthetic fertilizer is up to the individual. A 2024 National Lawn Fertilizer Study by Axiom, found that 95% of respondents said it was important to apply fertilizers that are safe for children, pets and the environment. Somewhat ironically, despite safety concerns, 67% have used fertilizers that contain weed killers or insecticides. In most cases, applications of any kind of pesticide, whether it be an herbicide, insecticide or fungicide are not necessary at this time of year.

                    Most folks who tend lawns or gardens are aware that fertilizer packages come with a guaranteed analysis. These are the 3 numbers on the package, for example 5-10-10. They are always in the same order and always stand for the percent by dry weight of total nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Unless you are purchasing a lawn starter fertilizer, which you would use for new seedings and soddings, you will notice that maintenance lawn fertilizers sold in Connecticut have 0 as a middle number, so for instance 18- 0- 4.

                    This is because of phosphorus legislation passed in 2013. Many people may not be aware that phosphorus is the number one inland freshwater pollutant in the state and when it enters streams, rivers, ponds or lakes, it encourages algae growth that eventually dies and decomposes depleting the oxygen in the water and leading to fish kills. Also, it may encourage the growth of toxic cyanobacteria as well as making the waters undesirable for recreational activities. In a nutshell, the law says that phosphorus should not be applied to an established lawn unless a soil test performed in the past 2 years provides a recommendation for phosphorus.

                    When applying a lawn fertilizer, either the soil test recommendations or the ones on the package call for approximately 1 pound of nitrogen to be applied for every 1000 square feet of lawn. Two things to check are the size of your lawn and also, the setting on your spreader.

                    Ideally one would like to apply the fertilizer when the grass is dry but before a light rain. If no rain is predicted, it would be beneficial if the lawn was watered lightly so that fertilizer prills are not sticking to the blades of grass but washed into the soil.

                    Lawn fertilizers generally are available as either fast or slow release. The nutrients in fast release fertilizers, especially nitrogen, are generally water soluble and readily available to your lawn grasses. Many lawn fertilizers also contain slow release or water insoluble forms of nitrogen. These are typically more expensive but supply nitrogen over longer periods of time. They are less likely to burn and more slowly fertilize plants.

                    Whichever one you pick; it should be put down by October 15th. Weather is unpredictable after that, and plants may or may not be able to use the nutrients before colder temperatures prevail and grass growth slows.

                    This time of year is great for reseeding any bare spots, topdressing with compost if organic matter levels are low, using a mulching mower to incorporate leaves as they fall and for aerating if the soil is compacted. Send your lawn questions to ladybug@uconn.edu or call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center with your queries at (877) 486-6271.

                    High-tech Tomatoes

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                    By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty
                    UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                    Assorted slicing and cherry tomatoes
                    An assortment of tomato varieties of both the slicing and cherry types.  The colors include red, orange, pink, yellow, and now purple (photo by M. Lisy).

                    Tomatoes are one of the most popular food plants in the world, and as such, have undergone massive amounts of selective breeding. Native to western South America, the tomato can now be found all over the world. Originally grown for ornamental purposes due to fear of toxicity, modern gardeners grow many different colors including red, yellow, pink, orange, and white.

                    Tomatoes are prone to certain diseases which led to dependence on chemicals to control either the disease or the pest that transmits it. Disease resistant varieties of tomatoes were made by crossing certain parental tomatoes that had beneficial traits. For example, if a certain tomato tasted great but was prone to some type of wilt disease, it was crossed with a tomato that was resistant to wilt. Of course, this was VERY time consuming, and many times the final product is not perfect, but as close to ideal as possible. This does make people dependent on the seed producers, but at least you get the tomatoes you desire.

                    People were sad that they could never get the old heirloom varieties with superior taste to grow in the presence of modern-day diseases, so science came up with another solution – grafted tomatoes. Using young plants, the grower would take and graft the top of the desired tomato onto the roots of the undesirable but disease resistant rootstock. Certainly, these types of tomatoes have an important role in agriculture, but they are not feasible/economical in many situations.

                    One modern scientific solution is genetic engineering. This process takes a gene, or piece of DNA that codes for a specific trait, out of one species, and places it into another. The public generally does not like this type of technology partially due to a lack of understanding of the process, but also a fear of what could happen because of it. While science continues to make new GMOs, many companies will not use them due to consumer preference. In 1994, the “Flavr Savr” tomato became the first genetically engineered food to be granted a license for human consumption by the FDA. Although flavorful throughout its long shelf life, this tomato failed to meet commercial standards due to being easily damaged during harvest and shipping. Even though this tomato failed to become the success the company had hoped for, Calgene (now owned by Monsanto) made history.

                    Purple tomatoes with a blue pen cap to display size.
                    “The Purple Tomato,” the first GMO tomato available to home gardeners. Note the completely deep purple skin and flesh (photo by M. Lisy).

                    Thirty years later, the year 2024 saw another milestone in the world of GMO tomatoes. Norfolk Plant Sciences, and its seed-selling subsidiary, Norfolk Healthy Produce, produced the first tomato with completely purple skin and flesh. This is also the first time a GMO food crop has been approved for home gardeners. The color comes from the anthocyanin pigment, which is said to have heart-healthy and antioxidant benefits when consumed in the quantity found in this tomato. In addition, this pigment may increase the shelf life of the tomato. The gene for this pigment came from edible snapdragon flowers.

                    Many times, people fear GMOs saying that it is unnatural to have an extra “foreign” gene in an organism, and the potential risk of a “new combination of genes” created by this engineering process. The Food and Drug Administration deems this tomato as safe for human consumption as any other. In the end, each person should do their own research and make an informed decision for themselves and their family. For me, it is an exciting time to be alive as we are living through history. I felt really excited to grow the first-ever GMO tomato for home gardeners. One day, many of the tomatoes will be like this, but for right now, I will marvel at the original.

                    For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                    Tips from UConn Floriculture Help Spruce Up Container Plantings

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                    By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                    Fall container plant selection at a greenhouse
                    Photo by dmp2024

                    As summer wanes and the cool breezes of autumn begin to roll into Connecticut, it’s the perfect time to refresh your container plantings. Shelley Durocher-Nesta, UConn Plant Science Floriculture Grower, says this summer’s rain and high temperatures have many of our container plantings looking a little ragged but fall presents a unique opportunity to infuse your outdoor spaces with rich colors, interesting textures, and seasonal charm that lasts well into the cooler months

                    By the end of summer, many annuals start to fade. To maintain a lush and lively look, she suggests replacing them with plants that thrive in cooler weather. A top candidate for fall plantings, both containerized and inground are mums, obviously. They offer an explosion of color in shades of yellow, bronze, pink and reds. Asters are runner’s up, flashing their cooler shades of purples and pinks.

                    Ornamental cabbages and kale are leafy plants bringing texture and interest to plantings, often with their lacy ruffled edges. Hues range from deep purple to violet and from white to green, some being two-toned.

                    Recently, pansies and violas have been showing up as fall bloomers. These delicate flowers add a pop of color and laugh off light frosts. Pansies, with their cheerful ‘faces’ are particularly popular and come in a wide range of colors. Ornamental peppers in shades of yellow, purple red and orange are also available often in 4-inch pots

                    Depending on your color scheme and container size, two other great fall accompaniments are heuchera (coral bells) with their stunning foliage in a myriad of colors, and sedums that can be used either for their unique fleshy foliage or pollinator-friendly blooms.

                    Don’t forget ornamental grasses for their attractive seedheads and whispering foliage. If pinched for room, a few stalks of dried grasses or wheat can give your containers a rustic, harvest-time feel.

                    Before purchasing new plants, access the plants presently in your containers. Groom, deadhead and cut back leggy annuals like petunias and verbena. If you have summer plants that are still thriving, you can repurpose them by combining them with fall plants in the same container for a mixed-season look. However, often one finds that their summer layout doesn’t work as well with new plants. Don’t hesitate to replace staid offerings. Durocher-Nesta, agrees saying that switching out her summer planters that are getting a little tired by the end of August is a joy.

                    Container full of fall annuals
                    Photo by dmp2024

                    Refresh the soil in containers before planting new fall selections. Summer plants have depleted the nutrients, so replacing the top few inches with fresh potting mix can get fall plants off to a better start. If your container is large and you can’t replace all the soil, mix in some compost or at least a slow-release fertilizer, as directed on the package, to rejuvenate it,

                    Consider elevating some containers on stands or steps to create varying heights. Grouping containers of different sizes together on your porch or patio can also add depth and visual interest.

                    One of the joys of fall container gardening is the chance to play with a different color palette. While summer is about bright, vibrant colors, fall offers a more subdued, warm earthy palette. Think deep purples, burnt oranges, and rich reds, balanced with greens and whites.

                    As the weather cools, plants will need less water but check regularly. Container plants can dry out quickly especially on sunny fall days. Stick a finger in and add water when the top inch of potting media feels dry.

                    Regularly deadhead spent flowers and remove any yellowing leaves to keep your containers looking tidy and to encourage continued blooming. As frost becomes more likely, be prepared to cover sensitive plants or bring containers indoors on particularly cold nights.

                    In addition to the plants, fall-themed accents can enhance the seasonal appeal of your containers. Consider adding small pumpkins, gourds, or decorative squash to the mix. For a touch of whimsy, add seasonal decorations like mini scarecrows, wooden sunflowers or decorative berries.

                    Sprucing up your container plantings for fall in Connecticut can bring a fresh, seasonal look to your outdoor spaces. With the right plant choices, thoughtful arrangement, and a few seasonal accents, your containers can remain a focal point of beauty and interest well into the cooler months. Durocher-Nesta shares thoughts about her favorite fall flower: “Bright and fresh mums bring a smile to my face during a time of year when falling leaves and shorter days mean winter is coming.  They’re one last Hoorah! for the growing season.”

                    If you have questions on container plantings or on any other home or garden topic, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                    Late Season Pollinator Plants, Cucurbits, Harvesting, and other September News

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                    September is for Late Season Pollinator Plants, Cucurbits, Preparing & Storing your Harvest

                    "By all these lovely tokens, September days are here. With summer's best of weather and autumn's best of cheer."
                    - Helen Hunt Jackson

                     

                    Late Season Plants for Pollinators

                    As gardeners, it is important for us to be able to enjoy our gardens as long as possible into the colder months! As allies and companions to our beloved pollinators, it is part of our task to help provide food sources to help them prepare for the winter months as well. 

                    Annuals

                    Butterflies on Zinnia flowers
                    Photo by H. Zidack

                    • Zinnias are a long-season pollinator plant that will continue to perform into the fall. You may even see them returning to garden centers to be included in fall containers. 
                    • Other late season bloomers like Tithonia, Lantana, Marigolds, Sunflowers  and Cosmos are particularly important food sources for migrating butterflies and other insects. Hummingbirds are very fond of lanatana nectar, so they will benefit as they migrate through in September.   

                     

                    The Fall Garden is Still Great for Pollinators

                    Perennials

                    • Goldenrod in full bloomNative goldenrods (Solidago spp.) provide nectar and pollen for diverse species of insects and seeds for birds and small mammals. Different species bloom from August- late September or even into October, when other native plants are past bloom time. They are important sources of energy for migrating butterflies and for bees that are active late in the season.
                    • Other late season pollinator plants include Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Sedum and Asters

                    Planting for Pollinators

                    Late Season Cucurbit Harvesting

                    Watermelon on the vine

                      Watermelons

                      Watermelons  take 35-45 days to  mature after flowering, but temperatures and variety will affect time to harvest To determine if a watermelon is ripe, use these signs:

                      • There is a curling tendril closest to the melon- this should turn brown and dry out
                      • Carefully turn melon over to see f the white blotch where soil contact was made is now yellow
                      •  Rind should be dull, not shiny
                      •  Thump the melon- sound should be hollow-sounding, deep and resonant. Unripe melons will have a higher pitched flatter sound
                      •  Check the days to maturity as given on the seed packet. If it says 65 days, then it should be ripe at that time, but check above signs, too. If you do not know the variety, then use 1-4 as a reference.

                      Pumpkins/Gourds

                      This time of year is when pumpkins will start reaching maturity. Harvest will be here before you know it! Keep these things in mind while deciding "is it time?"

                      • Skin should be thick and pumpkins should be firm
                      • Leave the stem intact to ensure a longer shelf life
                      • Never lift or carry a pumpkin by the stem
                      • Read More Tips

                      Winter Squash

                      Winter squash have many of the same harvest characteristics as pumpkins and gourds. 

                      • Similar to pumpkins, the skin should be hard and difficult to puncture with a fingernail
                      • Leaving 3-4 inches of stem attached helps preserve the fruit
                      • Read More Tips

                       

                       

                      Preparing and Storing your Harvest

                      The UConn Home & Garden Education Center is here to help you get your plants from seed to harvest! 

                      While we're not able to answer your questions about what happens once the produce is picked, we do have partners who are here to help you with just that!

                      UConn's Food Safety program can take you "from Harvest to Feast!"

                       

                      UConn's Food Safety Program

                      Home Food Preservation at UConn

                      Native Plant Highlight: Shrub Dogwoods

                      Shrub dogwood with blue berries

                      Shrub dogwoods like silky (Cornus obliqua) and red osier (Cornus sericea) and gray (Cornus racemosa ) not only provide food for pollinators in the spring, but they are an important source of food for birds and animals in late summer and fall. They are available at most garden centers that feature native plants and their a cultivars. Many can tolerate some shade and moist soils.

                      Learn More About Shrub Dogwoods

                      Vegetable Gardening Resources

                      During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

                      While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

                      If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

                      8/30/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

                      Read Previous Pest Messages

                      New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024

                      UConn Fruit Update

                      The UConn Fruit Program publishes a fruit update, very similar to the IPM Vegetable Pest Alert. If you keep fruit trees, this may be a valuable resource for you! If you ever need help understanding how to apply these principles to your own home garden, let us know!

                      Read the Latest UConn Fruit Update

                      New England Tree Fruit Management Guide

                      September 2024 Weather Outlook

                      A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns in September will bring us into harvest season!

                        September Precipitation Outlook  September Temperature Outlook

                      Knowledge to Grow On

                       

                      Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                      • The Mattabesett Trail is a 62-mile trail that features some of the most outstanding cliff views and ridge walking in Connecticut, especially on the western sections. It links to many state forests, land trust preserves and parks. Other sections have brooks, bogs, hardwood forests and high ledges looking over the Connecticut River.
                      • It's Apple Season! Visit a pick-your-own orchard, or find your favorite apple flavored treats starting this month! 
                      • The Big E is this month! Visit for agricultural displays, food, entertainment, and more! Starting Sept. 13th
                      •  Sept 15-21 is National Indoor Plant Week.

                          Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                            CT Invasive Plant Working Group
                            In-Person Symposium
                            October 29th, 2024
                            UConn Student Union
                            Storrs, CT

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                            compost bin

                            2024 UConn Master Composter Program

                            Interested in learning more about composting and sharing your knowledge with others? UConn will be holding its Master Composter program this September. The Master Composter program is a train the trainer program where participants will learn about the various aspects of composted and then donate a minimum of 20 hours volunteer time engaging in outreach projects that may include activities such as tabling at events, giving presentations or working with schools or community gardens. When outreach goals have been met, participants will be certified as Master Composters and receive a certificate of completion. There is a registration fee.

                            The 2024 program will be a hybrid program with two in-person Saturday sessions, September 14 & 28 along with two evening online sessions, September 19 & 27 via WebEx. The two Saturday classes will be held at the Middlesex County Extension Center, 1066 Saybrook Rd, Haddam, CT 06438. It is anticipated that two field trips will be offered this fall, also on weekends

                            If interested, please visit: The Master Composter Homepage

                            Feed The Earth……Compost!

                             

                            September Gardening Tips

                                  • September is a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!
                                  • Early fall is a good time to plant trees and shrubs and allows time for the root systems to get established before the ground freezes.
                                  • Visit a local nursery or garden center and select spring flowering bulbs to add to your gardens. Plant the bulbs among perennials, under trees and shrubs, or in larger groups for a splendid spring show. Choose colors that complement other spring flowering plants as well as nearby plantings. Work a little Bulb Booster or 5-10-10 into the bottom of the planting holes.
                                  • Continue to water any new shrub or tree plantings until the first hard frost.
                                  • Do not fertilize trees, shrubs and perennials in late summer. Doing so may cause new growth that will not harden off before winter.
                                  • Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.
                                  • Move the houseplants to their indoor locations before the furnace gets turned on so they can start becoming used to the lower indoor light and humidity levels.
                                  • Pot up or propagate herbs to bring indoors for winter use.
                                  • Watch for frost warnings and cover tender plants.
                                  • Do not add diseased leaves or stems into the compost pile. Temperatures of home compost do not usually get high enough to kill pathogens and can cause disease to reoccur in your garden next year. 
                                  • Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.

                                  More September Gardening Tips

                                  This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                  Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

                                   

                                  Fall is a Fabulous Time to Plant!

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                                  By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                  Evergreens for sale at a nursery
                                  Photo by H. Zidack

                                  There’s no doubt that spring planting is exciting. The instant gratification that comes with putting in our new gardens and seeing flowers and greenery right away is unmatched.  Late season planting is a different animal altogether. There’s a slower pace, less pressure for perfection, and a promise of beauty next season – leaving us the chance to take up other projects in the spring.

                                  Many gardeners will start planting hardy bulbs this fall, but you can do so much more! Planting trees, shrubs, and perennials in the late summer/early fall provides enough time for plants to get established without the heat and drought stresses of summer. New plants installed in the fall have enough time to develop healthy roots and settle in before winter. Allow at least 6 weeks (about 1 and a half months) before the first hard frost to ensure strong establishment. It’s less stressful for plants, but also easier for gardeners to plant, water, and support our gardens when the weather is a bit cooler.

                                  Your fall planted perennials, trees and shrubs will also flower “on time” next spring. Whether you've noticed it or not, flowering plants that we buy during the growing season are sometimes manipulated to bloom when you see them on the shelf. And while most plants will settle into their natural flowering cycle after their first year, planting in the fall ensures that you are starting the season with a bed that will bloom as nature intended.

                                  Watering a shrub after planting
                                  Photo by dmp2024

                                  Keep a keen eye out for garden centers that may be trying to sell down their stock, so they don’t have to keep it during the winter. Plants may look a little more weathered, and past their prime. But don’t fret! If you shop smart, you can find some great plants for fantastic prices.

                                  Shop for plants that have a nice form and strong root ball. Avoid plants that have apparent injury to trunks or branches. Old insect feeding damage, off colored leaves, or some drought damage may be recoverable. Remember that perennials will be cut back before their next flush, and deciduous shrubs will drop leaves and need pruning regardless of what they may look like right now. Never buy a plant that seems to have issues that you cannot identify, regardless of the bargain. If there are plants that you want that are unavailable, leave space for them to be planted next season.

                                  The lower stress environmental conditions also make it a suitable time to transplant or divide plants that bloom in the spring or summer. When digging plants for transplanting, make sure to dig wide and deep to get as much of the root ball as possible. Division is a common practice with perennials and is as simple as driving a shovel through the center of the plant and digging out half of it to put somewhere else. Larger plants can be divided multiple times.

                                  While it may seem like a promising idea to help push your plants along with some robust growth, fertilizing is not recommended in the fall. Pushing tender growth too close to chilly weather can leave the plant vulnerable to environmental damage, loss of shoots, and possibly even loss of flowers next season. Maintain them with adequate watering and supportive care. Provide good sanitation by removing and disposing of any questionable leaves that fall in your space, especially those from newly installed plants.

                                  Planting in the fall and supporting your fall garden will help you lay a foundation for a successful spring.

                                  If you have questions on fall gardening or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                                   

                                  End of Season Strawberry Renovation

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                                  By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                  Strawberry row
                                  Strawberries before renovation at the end of the season. Photos by dmp2024

                                  Strawberry row after renovation
                                  Strawberries after renovation at the end of the season. Photos by dmp2024

                                  So, you decided to grow some strawberries this year. You carefully prepared the bed and have enjoyed your first crop. Now you are wondering what to do to keep your strawberry bed healthy and productive. In part, the care after harvest depends on whether you are growing June bearing or day neutral (everbearing) varieties and what kind of row systems you have them planted in.

                                  June bearing strawberries are most commonly grown in what is known as the matted row system. Mother plants are set 18 to 24 inches apart in 3 to 4 1/2 foot rows and runners are allowed to root anywhere within the row. This system is usually the easiest to maintain. Typically, at the end of the third growing season both plant quality and fruit quantity start to decrease and the whole bed is dug up and replanted with new disease-free strawberry plants. Try to incorporate this into your garden rotation plan to reduce disease problems.

                                  June bearers can also be grown in single rows composed of different aged plants with the original plants set about a foot apart. A second row is started with first year runners and set 18 inches from the initial planting. Use only the first or second daughter plants produced along the runners because they are the most vigorous and productive. The rest are usually discarded.

                                  The next year a third row is made again using the first one or two daughter plants and once more surplus runners and plants are removed. After the original mother plants have produced fruit for about 3 years, they are generally replaced with new, disease-free stock and the cycle continues. This way one always has a row or two of strawberries in production. Ideally the row with the new strawberry plants should be located on a section of the garden where strawberries haven’t been grown for 3 to 5 years. This isn’t always possible in small yards, which is why it is important to purchase certified virus free stock.

                                  After year two when June bearing strawberries have finished producing their crop, it is time to renovate. According to Evan Lentz, UConn Fruit Specialist and Assistant Extension Educator, renovating your June-bearing strawberries is one of the best ways to maximize your annual production, reduce disease instance, and maintain an orderly planting. Proper renovation ensures that you set yourself up for success in the following year and allows you to extend the life and productivity of this semi-perennial crop. This is doubly important for individuals producing fruit in an organic or no-spray system.

                                  This can be done sometime in July through August. Lentz suggests starting by either mowing or clipping with hand trimmers all the foliage about 2 inches or so above the crowns. Next, go through the bed removing all weeds, and weak and extra strawberry plants and dead or dying leaves. Thin to space plants at least 10 to 12 inches apart and cultivate around these remaining plants.

                                  Now is the time to fertilize your strawberries whether beds are renovated or not. Lentz recommends working in about 3 to 4 pounds of 10-10-10 or its organic equivalent per 100 square feet. Lightly scratch the fertilizer into the soil. Brush or rinse any fertilizer off leaves at the salts will injure them.

                                  Day neutrals, such as ‘Tristar’, ‘Seascape’ and ‘Mara des Bois’ produce a fairly decent size crop in June and continue forming occasional berries until frost. Unlike June bearers which develop fruit buds in late summer and early fall, the ever bearers have the ability to form fruit buds throughout the summer. An advantage to growing day neutrals is you will still get strawberries even if a late spring frost kills their initial fruit buds.

                                  In general, day neutrals are grown for 2 or 3 years and then a new batch of strawberries is planted. The day neutrals produce far fewer runners than the June bearers. The new daughter plants should all be removed although they can be transplanted into another area if desired. Plants are usually set one foot apart in single rows about 18 inches wide.

                                  According to Lentz, all strawberries require at least an inch of water per week for vigorous growth. If dry weather sets in, plan on irrigating plants, especially those just renovated. Use a mulch of pine needles, straw or wood shavings to conserve moisture, keep weeds down and berries off the soil. Since strawberries are shallow rooted, it is important to keep weeds under control.

                                  It does take a little time to maintain a strawberry bed but the luxury of picking your own berries for strawberry shortcake, jam or fresh eating makes it all worthwhile. If you have questions about growing strawberries or on any other home or garden topic, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                                  Spectacular Sedums: Your New Favorite Groundcover

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                                  By Abigayle Ward, UConn Dept. of Plant Science & LA Graduate Student

                                  A bee on a cluster of pink sedum flowers
                                  Sedums are very attractive to pollinators. Photo by dmp2024

                                  With varieties native to North America, tolerance to frigid temperatures down to minus 40 degrees F, and nearly 500 species described, sedums subvert all expectations of a succulent. Also known as stonecrop, sedums have been a garden favorite since the 17th century, and it’s easy to see why. Their visual interest and tolerance of harsh growing conditions make them well-suited as groundcover for the landscaper with an artistic eye.

                                  You can purchase either tall or creeping varieties of sedums. Also known as ‘clumping’ varieties, tall sedum varieties can grow up to 3 feet tall although many will only grow to 1 foot tall or less. Tall, top-heavy varieties can be prone to falling or flopping over especially if overfertilized or if they receive too much water. They are well-behaved perennials that are clump formers, and thus can be useful as focal points in garden beds. Alternatively, creeping varieties of sedums grow from 2 to about 6 inches tall.  These creeping varieties will spread a few feet in every direction but do so very slowly. If you wish to fill your bed with sedums, you can stick vegetative cuttings throughout the area you want them to grow. Keep moderately moist until well rooted. Once they root, they will usually fill out your bed fairly rapidly.

                                  With such a large variety of leaf shapes and sizes, interesting bed textures can also be created with sedums. Some varieties have large, broad, spoon-shaped leaves while others have many short, pointed leaves surrounding the main stem. You may wish to combine different textures together into one bed to make a wild, visually striking design, or try taking advantage of certain textures for specific locations in the bed. For example, you could choose short creeping varieties with small leaves for bed edges, and select slightly taller creeping varieties with larger, broader leaves to build up to the bed’s focal point.

                                  Variegated sedum with yellow flowers
                                  Some sedums come in a variety of leaf shapes and colors. Photo by dmp2024

                                  Sedums come in a smattering of delightful color combinations from electric green to deep purple, red to teal; there’s a color of sedum for any design. Many keep their color year-round, and produce delightful bunches of tiny, colorful flowers between summer and fall, depending on the species or cultivar. The magenta, yellow, and lilac-colored petals attract pollinators in great numbers, especially between August and September here in Connecticut. The flowers persist until wintertime, when they dry out and turn brown as the plant goes dormant. While you may choose to remove the flowers before the winter snowfall, you can also leave them on the plant to add some color contrast in your garden as the brown stalks are surrounded with snow. Additionally, leaving the dried flowers on the plants may help creeping varieties spread, as the tiny seeds fall to the ground and germinate come springtime.

                                  While generally very tolerant of adverse growth conditions, sedums do best in sunny spots with well-drained soil. Luckily for those of us in Connecticut, many of our soils are well-drained. Sedums require little nutrients to thrive and typically are happy with just a spring application of an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Since sedums go dormant in the winter, no fertilizer should be applied later in the year. While other groundcover plants may need water in a drought, sedums, like most succulents, can go extended periods of time without supplemental irrigation. To top it off, their foliage is bitter, and thus unlikely to be damaged by grazing wildlife. The limited maintenance requirements of sedums make them attractive candidates for both lawn alternatives and green roofs alike.

                                  While resistant to consumption by mammalian wildlife, the juicy sedum leaves are sometimes appealing to hungry aphids and thrips. To manage aphids and other sap-sucking insects, you can simply spray sedums with water to knock off the pests – just be mindful of overwatering, as the sedums may rot. Alternatively, you can try attracting ladybugs and other aphid predators to your sedums by planting marigolds, dill and other predator attracting plants nearby. The ladybugs will partake in the pollen and snack on the sapsuckers. Avoid spraying insecticides, as they will kill both pests and beneficial insects, including pollinators. Leaving leaf litter in your garden over the winter gives a place for ladybugs to hibernate. Come spring, newly hatched ladybug larvae will be on the hunt for a meal, ready to vigilantly defend your sedums from attacking aphids.

                                  Your next groundcover selection can be both visually appealing and low maintenance. If you’re looking to update your groundcover, consider picking up some sedums at your local garden center in the spring or summer.

                                  If you have questions on growing sedums or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                                  Flock to Phlox

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                                  By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                  Purple phlox flowers
                                  Purple phlox in bloom. Photo by dmp2024

                                  About now, many of our perennial gardens are looking a bit lackluster. Early summer bloomers have fizzled out and autumn charmers like asters and mums have yet to pop. Garden phlox (P. paniculata) to the rescue!

                                  Annual and perennial phlox comprised about 70 different species, many of which are native to North America. Their habitats range from woodlands to meadow and their growth habits from low and mounded to tall and upright. All have clusters of tubular flowers that are exceptionally attractive to hummingbirds and hummingbird moths along with bees and butterflies.

                                  There are an outstanding number of garden worthy cultivars. My favorite is ‘David’, a white, powdery mildew resistant variety that grows to about 4 feet with loads of slightly fragrant blooms. I have it planted in my white garden and this sturdy, upright plant has come back year after year with virtually no problems.

                                  UConn Plant Science & Landscape Architecture professor, Dr. Jessica Lubell-Brand noted phlox ‘Jeana’, the 2024 Perennial Plant Association’s Perennial Plant of the Year, is treasured for its long blooming period as well as its butterfly luring abilities. Plants can reach up to 5 feet in height and its more loose and wild appearance works well in cottage gardens featuring attractive pink flowers and decent powdery mildew resistance.

                                  Sometimes shorter varieties are a better fit and if that is the case, for your beds look to ‘Coral Crème Drop’, which according to Dr. Lubell are part of the Candy Store series. She raves about their vibrant coral blossoms with their August feel. Another top garden candidate in her book is ‘Glamour Girl’, also with hot coral blooms as well as good resistance to powdery mildew.

                                  A number of garden phlox sport distinctive eyes. ‘Bright Eyes’, as the name implies is a delicate pale pink with a bright crimson eye while ‘Laura’ is a mildew resistant, royal purple variety with a white eye. Both grow to about 3 feet in height.

                                  Many gardeners find these phlox indispensable for August into September color in the perennial garden. They are tough, colorful, vigorous plants that are hardy and relatively long-lived. They make excellent background plants for narrow borders and can bridge the gap between varied sized perennial plantings. Garden phlox come in a wide range of hot and cool colors ranging from white and light pinks, to purples, reds, oranges and magenta.

                                  For healthy, vigorous plants, they should be grown in full sun to part shade. Phlox enjoy a moderately fertile soil with a pH in the 6s. While established plants are fairly drought tolerant, larger and more numerous flower heads are produced when adequate moisture is supplied. They grow at a moderate rate so division every 3 to 4 years is usually sufficient.

                                  Both to encourage sizable blooms as well as to reduce the incidence of phlox’s number one nemesis, powdery mildew, Dr. Lubell recommends reducing the number of stalks early in the growing season to 6 to 8 per plant. This provides better air circulation to plants.

                                  Powdery mildew on phlox leaves
                                  Powdery mildew on phlox leaves. Photo by dmp2024

                                  Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that is more widespread during humid, wet summers. It typically does not kill plants, but they look awful with their leaves covered with what looks like white powder. Two options for dealing with this disease according to Dr. Lubell, are to select resistant phlox cultivars or to pre-emptively spray with a least toxic substance like potassium bicarbonate or your fungicide of choice. As stems die or get killed by frost, be sure to remove them from the garden and put in the trash, not the compost pile.

                                  Insects are not usually a problem but during dry, hot summers, spider mites may attack plants. Usually, a strong blast from the hose will knock them off. This may need to be repeated several times if dry weather persists.

                                  A key gardening practice when growing phlox is dead-heading, or removal of spent flower heads. Garden phlox produce a lot of seeds and if left to fall to the ground and germinate, vigorous plants will most likely produce blooms in that undesirable, muted magenta color. Often these seedlings crowd out the more desirable cultivars that were intentionally purchased.

                                  Not only are garden phlox cultivars pretty spectacular on their own but Dr. Lubell says they pair nicely with a variety of other perennials including lilies, yarrow, ballon flower, daylilies, bee balm as well as numerous annuals.

                                  If you have questions on garden phlox or on any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu