Planting Peonies, Spotted Lanternflies, Pokeweed, and Other September News

Posted on September 3, 2026September 9, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Peonies

This month is the perfect time to plant, divide, or transplant peonies, allowing tubers to establish themselves before winter arrives and the ground freezes. Six weeks of temperatures below 40°F are required for proper flowering in the spring. Choose a site with full sun and well-drained soil to avoid root rot issues. Dig a hole large enough to fit the tuber and its root system, working a form of organic matter, such as compost, into the soil. Nestle the tuber inside—about 1-2 inches from the soil surface. Planting too deeply will prevent proper flowering in the spring. Water the new planting well, adding mulch if needed to maintain moisture.

If transplanting, cut peony stems close to ground level. Dig around and under the plant to gather up the root system. Similar to when planting new tubers, transplanted peonies should not be buried deeper than 2 inches below the soil surface.

If dividing a previous planting, carefully dig up the peony and its root system. With a properly sanitized tool, carefully cut the root tubers into small sections with 3-5 buds each and plant according to the guidelines above.

About Peonies

Peony Care

Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Spotted Lantenrfly (SLF) is an invasive insect introduced from Asia. It arrived in Connecticut in 2020 and has since spread throughout the state. The preferred host plant is Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but it will feed on many other genera of plants. SLF poses a threat to Connecticut agriculture because of its feeding on some fruit crops. At this point in the season, destroying eggs by scraping or crushing them will be most effective at reducing next year's population. Nymphs and adults can be treated with contact insecticides including insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or other insecticides according to label instructions. Circle traps can be used to capture nymphs next year.

About Spotted Lanternfly

About Tree-of-Heaven

How to Build a Spotted Lanternfly Circle Trap

What to Know about Spotted Lanternfly in Connecticut

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Tree of Heaven (TOH) is an invasive tree in CT. It is also the preferred host plant for the invasive spotted lanternfly (SLF). This tree forms dense colonies through its suckering root system. Female trees can produce hundreds of thousands of seeds annually. Removing this tree is recommended, but careful consideration should be taken because when injured or cut down, the tree can produce many stump sprouts or root suckers. Systemic herbicides applications are recommended from mid-summer through early fall.

Pokeweed is a native perennial that is having a banner year in 2026 in Connecticut. With its multiple branching habit and height-up to 10 feet- it can be mistaken for a shrub.

It is generally considered a weed in gardens and residential spaces. However, in the wild, the dark purple fruit are of value to birds and small mammals.

Pokeweed is best controlled is by pulling out young plants before the taproot gets firmly established. Other control methods are highlighted in the article below.

All plant parts are poisonous to humans and pets, and wearing gloves, long sleeves and closed toed shoes is recommended when handling all parts of the plant.

Learn More About Pokeweed

Controlling Pokeweed

Interesting Insects: American Lady Butterflies

Orange and brown butterfly with black and white markings resting on a green leaf. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American lady butterflies, Vanessa virginiensis, are among the several butterfly genera that migrate in both spring and fall, like the monarchs. As they head south in late summer, flowers like goldenrods, Tithonia spp. of Mexican sunflowers, zinnias, asters and lantana are among the plants they use as food sources on their way south.

This is a very fast flyer as it wings its way around the landscape. It is very similar to the painted lady, Vanessa carduii, but it has two large eyespots on the rear wing instead of the four smaller eyespots of the painted lady. Plus, the forewing orange cell of the American lady just below the dark area with the white markings has a white dot in the center.

American Lady vs. Painted Lady Butterflies

Beaked Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta)

Corylus cornuta, is a native, easy to grow multi-stemmed shrub that grows in full sun to part shade. It can form thickets by sending up suckers from rhizomes.

Edible nuts about a half inch in size are enclosed in a beaked husk, and nuts can be harvested in late summer. The fruit is unique when joined together in pairs- the whole fruit resembles Brunhilda 's horned opera hat. Fall leaf color is yellow bronze.

Learn More About Beaked Hazelnut

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.

The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Get The Dirt On Your Soil - Soil Test This Fall!

As the summer season comes to a close and fall starts to move in, the perfect time to test your soil rapidly approaches. A fall soil test can help you start preparing for the following spring and summer season, even before winter begins! A soil test allows you to get a glimpse of what is going on in your soil, like the pH, nutrient levels, organic matter, and more! It helps to establish a base line to see if any soil amendments need to be added to improve your soil health. If any are needed, applying slow release nutrients, such as lime, in the fall can be very beneficial as the additions can slowly release into the soil over winter, and have your soil ready for growing in the spring. Fall crops and ground cover can even uptake the nutrients and have an even better spring green up! Don’t guess, soil test this fall!

By Zaira O'Leary, Soil Science Master's Student, UConn PSLA

Fall is the Perfect Time for Soil Sampling

Fall is a Great Time to Lime and Fertilize Lawns

UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

October 17th, 2026
11:00AM - 3:00PM
27A Manter Rd, Storrs CT

Join us for a free, family-friendly open house at UConn’s newest center! Learn more about our services and expertise in home gardening, plant diagnostics, soil and nutrient health, and turfgrass.

- Tours of the new George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center

- Hands-on plant and soil health demonstrations

- Lawn and garden questions answered

- Free soil pH testing

- Free plant diagnostic/nutrient analysis coupons (limited qty)

- UConn Hort-club Plant sale

- UConn Dairy Bar will be open

- Wagon rides, games, prizes, and more!

UConn Master Composter Program

What is the Master Composter Program?
Between 10 and 25% of a typical household’s waste can be recycled right in our own backyards. This significantly reduces the amount of waste that is incinerated or trucked to state and municipal landfills. The UConn Master Composter Program educates and trains state residents about the composting process and prepares participants to pass that knowledge on to others through outreach.

Program Details
Format: Hybrid, with two in-person Saturday sessions and two online evening sessions

Program fee: $100 per student

Class size: Limited to 25 participants

Certification: Participants must attend all class sessions and complete outreach projects totaling about 20 volunteer hours to receive a UConn Master Composter Certificate & Badge.

Suggested topics: Composting basics; compost chemistry, contaminants, and testing; compost recipes and calculators; community composting; earthworms; vermicomposting; and public education approaches.

For more information including registration and program updates, email soiltest@uconn.edu.

2026 CIPWG Symposium

The Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group's 2026 symposium From Awareness to Action - Strengthening Our Response to Invasive Plants will be in person at UConn Student Union, Storrs, CT, open to all; Wednesday, October 28, 2026.

Sessions include a variety of techniques for management of terrestrial and aquatic invasives, as well as restoration with native alternatives.

The symposium will be recorded and made available after the event. Attendees can choose to attend in person or purchase the recording. CEUs for organizations and Pesticide Recertification Credits are available.

$90 General Registration (in person attendance). $80 Recording Only; Student Registration Available.

Learn more and register at: cipwg.uconn.edu/2026-symposium/

Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026

Registration is now open for the Fall 2026 Online Ornamental & Turf Short Course! The course runs October 7–December 16, 2026, with weekly live online sessions held on Wednesdays from 5:30–7:30 p.m.

Registration Cost: $400 (includes the Pesticide Applicator Core Manual, Ornamental & Turf Category Manual, and printed course materials).
For information on student registration or if you are retaking the course, please contact the instructor, Srikanth Kodati (contact information can be found at the end of this email).

This short course provides an in-depth review of the material needed to prepare for the Connecticut Supervisory Pesticide Applicator Certification Exam (Category 3A: Ornamental & Turf/Golf Course Superintendents). Students who complete all modules, quizzes, and resource materials will be well prepared for both the written and oral state exams.

To register for the course:
s.uconn.edu/turfcourse

For more information: https://ipm.cahnr.uconn.edu/pesticide-course/

Please reach out to Srikanth (course instructor) at srikanth.kodati@uconn.edu or call 860-870-6935 if you have any questions.

September Gardening Tips

Mid to late September is a great time to add accent plants, like vivid mums and starry asters, that will provide autumn colors in the landscape. Use them along with cool-colored ornamental cabbages and kales to replace bedraggled annuals in containers as well

Lift and store tender bulbs, such as cannas, dahlias and gladiolus, after first frost

Spring and summer blooming perennials like daylilies and bearded irises can still be dug up and divided

Early autumn is a great time to plant perennials

Do not fertilize perennials any more this season. Pushing new growth too close to frost can cause damage to your plants

Late season cabbage and beets can stay in the garden until a light frost for best flavor. Some root crops, including certain varieties of beets, carrots and parsnips, may be left in the ground for storage. Wait until temperatures drop and growth stops and cover with a thick layer of straw or leaves. Harvest as needed during the winter. This may not be an option in areas with heavy vole populations.

Continue to water any new shrub or tree plantings until the first hard frost.

Continue to turn and moisten compost piles to speed decomposition.

Apply fall fertilizer to lawns between Sept. 15th and Oct. 15th.

As tomatoes end their production, cut down plants, pick up any debris and put dead/diseased plant parts in the trash or take to a landfill. Many diseases will over-winter on old infected leaves and stems so these are best removed from the property.

Harvest onions once tops have fallen over and necks have started to dry down and shrink just above the bulb.

More September Gardening Tips

Healthy Lawns, Sustainable Landscapes, Hanging Baskets, and Other August News

Posted on August 3, 2026August 4, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Balancing Healthy Lawns and Sustainable Landscapes

Utilized lawn spaces, sometimes referred to as functional lawn spaces, are areas people regularly use. These can be parts of your yard where your children play, your pets explore, or areas you utilize for family barbecues. On a commercial scale, these may be sports fields, town greens, or other recreational areas.

Underutilized lawn spaces are aesthetically appealing when kept up but are not used for heavy foot traffic, recreational, or other personal uses. Many gardeners are choosing to convert underutilized lawn areas into native plantings, pollinator habitats, low growing lawn alternatives, or other landscape features that better meet their goals while reducing maintenance inputs.

By differentiating between these two types of lawn spaces, homeowners can determine the level of care and maintenance each area requires. In the long run, this can help them balance healthy lawn areas with more sustainable landscape features.

For Connecticut's cool-season lawns, mid-August through mid-September is a prime time to perform lawn renovation and maintenance practices. Performing tasks at the proper time of year helps to reduce over-applicatinon of products.

Late Summer/Early Fall Lawn Care Chores

Seeding or Overseeding
- Aug 15-Sept 15 is a great time to repair thin or damaged lawn areas by either seeding or overseeding
Dethatching
- If thatch accumulation exceeds ¼ inch, dethatching can improve water and nutrient penetration and encourage healthier turf growth
Aerating
- Core aeration is generally only needed if soils are compacted
- Aeration can improve root growth, water infiltration and overall turf health in compacted areas
Fertilizing
- Late summer/fall fertilization should be done in alignment with results from a soil test

Take Care of Your Hanging Baskets

Orange and yellow flowers with green foliage, featuring a bumblebee resting on one of the blossoms. — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Hanging baskets are a staple of summer, bringing a pop of color and brightness to empty spaces on porches and decks. However, they require extra care and maintenance as their free-floating nature renders them more susceptible to the elements—namely an increased exposure to wind and sun. This leads to drier soils, making it necessary to frequently monitor hanging baskets to meet their watering needs.In especially full baskets with a variety of flowers, roots can become packed together and dry out even faster.

Check the soil texture at least once a day and water accordingly, increasing to two or more times on particularly hot and sunny days. Provide baskets with a healthy drink until water runs through the bottom, ensuring moisture will reach all of the roots evenly and thoroughly.

Baskets may also benefit from a trim, especially if you see the center of the basket starting to thin out or turn brown. Cut back your cascading stems by one third to help the plant push new growth out of the center.

How often should I water plants in hanging baskets?

Hanging Basket Care

Scout for Glossy Buckthorn

Green leafy branches with small black berries growing in dappled sunlight. — Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Glossy buckthorn (Frangula alnus ) is an invasive shrub or small tree spreading through disturbed areas, forests, wetlands, and edges across the Northeast. This plant leafs out early and retains its foliage later into fall. By doing so, it shades out native plants and disrupts natural forest regeneration. Look for smooth gray bark with prominent lenticels, alternate glossy leaves, and small fruits that change from red to dark purple or black. Birds eat the fruit and spread the seeds. Management is most effective when plants are removed before fruiting, using a combination of cutting and targeted herbicide application to prevent resprouting. Follow the label and all state regulations when choosing to use herbicides. Young or small plants can be manually removed.

Interesting Insects: Smaller parasa

Bright green smaller parasa slug moth resting on a smooth surface, with fuzzy green wings and brown legs and markings. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Educatin Office

Smaller Parasa slug moths are very small with a shaggy mane of green hairs and a thick green band on its brown forewing. Normally slug moth caterpillars are seen in August- September.

The caterpillars of all slug moths have no legs- instead of crawling they glide along by means of medial suckers. Most slug moth caterpillars have urticating spines which can cause a painful sting if touched, and on some species, like the smaller parasa, the spines are hidden until the caterpillar becomes alarmed. The caterpillar shown was found on a pin oak on Horsebarn Hill, UConn.

Smaller Parasa

Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)

Clethra alnifolia, is a native shrub that is found along watercourses or in damp areas where soils are acidic. Flowers are on white spikes and are very fragrant, attracting many pollinator species. This shrub is clonal and will spread somewhat over time.

Also called sweet pepperbush or summersweet, it is often found in the wild with buttonbush, which is also a native and flowers about the same time. There are cultivated varieties including 'Ruby Spice' which has pink flowers.

Learn More About Summersweet

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Bokashi: The Ferment for Soils

Have you ever tried kombucha or kefir for yourself? Have you ever thought soils can have beverages like those?

Composting techniques such as vermicompost and leaf compost have certain restrictions with the types of residues that can be incorporated when prepared. With bokashi, a Japanese technique to feed soils, more residues such as manures and other animal wastes can be used. It undergoes a fermentation process at anaerobic conditions, so it is not technically referred as compost. In principle, you add an easy source of carbon like sugar or molasses to your residues, and an inoculum of efficient microorganisms (mostly lactic acid bacteria and yeasts), which will overcontrol the mix and help with the regulation of possible pathogens. The result of this process is a solid that can be incorporated to soil, and a liquid that can be used diluted to fertilize, prevent drain blockages, and even added to accelerate composts!

Studies around bokashi are limited but often report high crop yields. Mineralized nitrogen varies depending on the material you use for its preparation. It is important to be cautious and ensure the conditions for the desired microorganisms, and to test for nitrogen content to not exceed its incorporation and generate runoffs and contamination. Nevertheless, no doubt there is an opportunity to use more of our residues and explore its properties.

By Paulette Goyes, elected WISE President & PhD. Student at the Plant Science and Landscape Architecture Department, UConn

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

42 Things to Do in Connecticut this August

Check out a local Summer Concert Series

August kicks off Fair Season in Connecticut!

Woodpecker Walk & Documentary Screening - August 22, Stamford CT

Visit one of CT's many Historic Gardens

The Sky's the Limit Walking Challenge for 2026 has started!

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

Slime Molds and Lichens with Pamm Cooper
August 5, 2026 - 1:30PM
Old St. Andrew's Church, Bloomfield
Registration Required

5th Annual Intergrated Pest Managment Seminar for the Home Gardener

Join Us for the 5th Annual UConn IPM Seminar for the Home Gardener!

Thursday, August 20th, 2026
10:30 AM - 2:00 PM

UConn Research Farm
59 Agronomy Road, Storrs, CT 06268
*Free Parking*

$5.00 Per Person

Learn basic principles of Integrated Pest Management and techniques to implement in your gardens with a day designed for the home gardener. Speakers from the UConn IPM team will present on various topics to help you improve the plant and soil health of your gardens, lawns, and landscapes.

Information & Registration

August Gardening Tips

August is the month to order peony roots for September planting. Peonies should be in the ground about a month before the average first frost date.

Continue to deadhead annuals and perennials to encourage continuous bloom.

Water plants deeply once or twice a week depending on the heat and humidity.

The best time to gather herbs and flowers for drying and preserving is during the midmorning hours, just after the dew has dried but before the sun causes them to wilt. Tie herbs in clusters with the stems attached and hang upside down to dry or dry in the microwave.

Renovate strawberry beds by mowing to a height of 1 ½ inches, thinning plants and side-dressing with a balanced fertilizer

Stop pruning evergreen trees and shrubs to avoid promoting new growth that may not harden off before first frost.

Fruiting plants such as winterberry, holly, and firethorn need regular watering during dry spells to ensure that berries mature and don't drop off

Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.

Reseeding the lawn in late August gives the new grass two growing periods (fall and spring) before the heat of summer. Be sure to keep the seed moist until germination.

Control mosquitoes by eliminating all sources of stagnant water. Clean bird baths and pet’s outdoor dishes often.

Leaky garden hoses and fittings can waste water. Check hoses while they are under full pressure and make repairs.

More August Gardening Tips

Vegetable Stress, Watering, and Other July News

Posted on July 2, 2026July 2, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Why Aren't my Vegetables Growing?

Although summer is officially in full swing, you may have noticed that this year’s vegetable gardens have not yet delivered the plentiful harvest expected at this stage of the season.

A cooler than average late spring and early summer have brought lower temperatures, especially overnight, impacting our crop’s ability to successfully develop and grow. Cool-season vegetables like broccoli and cabbage welcome cooler temperatures and have been thriving this growing season. Warm-season vegetables most synonymous with summer, such as tomatoes, peppers, and summer squash, need higher soil and air temperatures for optimal development.

As temperatures swing to the other extreme this week, gardeners may notice a continued delay in their gardens. But when temperatures level out later this month, our vegetable gardens will begin to look more like their usual selves. Learn more about the how temperature affects some of our favorite vegetables below:

Tomatoes

Optimum Daytime Temperature: 70-77°F
Optimum Nighttime Temperature: 60-75°F

Notes:

Fruit set declines when temperatures exceed sustained daytime temperatures above 85°F
Fruit ripening can be affected at temperatures above 80°F
Susceptible to chilling injury at temperatures below ~50°F

Peppers

Optimum Daytime Temperature: 70-85°F
Optimum Nighttime Temperature: 60-70°F

Notes:

Fruit set and ripening can be affected at sustained temperatures below 60°F or above 85°F
Susceptible to chilling injury at temperatures below ~55°F

Scout for Summer Tomato Issues

Tomato growth is in full swing this July! Below are some common diseases and issues tomatoes often experience this time of year.

These resources act as a great starting guide if you're scouting your home gardens!

We always recommend a confirmed diagnosis to ensure a targeted management strategy. Doing so can save you time, money and energy by knowing you've applied the correct product on the first time. If you see any of these issues in your garden, don't hesitate to reach out to the Home Garden Education Office or the Plant Diagnostic Lab for assistance with confirmation and developing a management plan!

Keeping Your Plants Hydrated This Summer

With a drought in place in many parts of the state, and a heat wave upon us, gardeners have their minds on watering! Here are some good tips to keep in mind as you water your garden this summer:

Watering During a Heat Wave

Don’t change your watering habits just because it’s hot! During periods of heat and drought stress, plants can close their stomata and reduce water use as a survival mechanism. While this may slow water uptake, plants still need adequate soil moisture. Overwatering, however, may not be helpful. Instead, roots can sit in saturated soil and develop diseases like root rot. Always check the top few inches of soil to ensure water is needed.
If scheduling permits, fertilize after a heat wave, once plants resume active growth. Applying fertilizer beforehand can encourage new growth that increases water demand and may be difficult to support during periods of heat and drought stress.
Do not spray plants down to cool them off. While this may seem helpful, it is often unnecessary and can contribute to foliar diseases if leaves remain wet for extended periods. Instead, focus on watering the soil at the base of the plant where it is most effective.

Deep Watering

Giving your plants a good soak does more than just help them in the short term. Deep watering provides a slow, thorough soak that reaches the plant’s root zone rather than just the soil surface. This encourages deeper root growth and improves drought tolerance, allowing for less frequent watering. Here are some tips on how to do this method properly.

For most garden plants, aim to moisten the top 6–18 inches of soil (deeper for trees). Apply water slowly at the dripline so it soaks in without pooling or running off.
Avoid high-flow sprinklers that may cause runoff; low-flow systems like drip or soaker hoses can be effective if applied long enough.
Water movement depends on soil type. For example, loamy soils absorb water at a moderate rate, while sandy soils drain quickly and clay soils absorb slowly. Dig down into your soil to check that water has penetrated deep enough. After a few watering cycles, you will become familiar with the timing and flow rate for your specific soil and plants.

Gardening in Hot Weather

Deep Watering of Trees

Interesting Insects: Prionus Borers

Close-up of a glossy black longhorn beetle with spiny, segmented antennae resting on a pale green leaf, with a blurred grassy path in the background. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Prionus laticollis, broad- necked root borers are large black beetles up to an inch and a half long can be seen crawling across lawns, sidewalks and driveways in early summer.

Larvae are very large and feed on roots of woody ornamentals and tree roots in the soil for three years. Adults emerge from July to September. The larvae are pests, and adults could be killed when found to reduce larval populations in the future. Adults otherwise are not injurious to plants.

Prionus Borers

Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis)

Elderberry is native to the Eastern United States, sometimes referred to as black elderberry, American elderberry and or Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. This multi-stemmed deciduous shrub spreads by root suckers to form colonies. The large white, flat-topped inflorescence becomes many dark purple to black fruits in late summer. The fruit (drupe) is eaten by birds. In the wild, it can be found along streambanks, moist woodlands, and roadsides. For home landscapes it's best used for a naturalized native plant garden, rain garden, as a hedge, screen, or as the background for a perennial border. This plant will attract birds and pollinators!

Learn More About Elderberry

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Beyond the Boom: Fireworks and Soil

This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on firework displays. This time of year brings many fireworks celebrations, but something we might not consider is how fireworks can impact soil and water ecosystems.

Each burst of color is produced from the use of different metal compounds. For example, copper compounds are used to make purple and blue flashes. When fireworks ignite, they generate high concentrations of pollutant gases, like sulfur dioxide (SO₂), nitric oxide (NO), nitrogen dioxide (NO₂), and carbon monoxide (CO), through rapid combustion. Another important component of many fireworks is perchlorate, an oxidizer that helps fuel the explosion and enhances effects, such as launch height, brightness, and flash intensity. During combustion, perchlorate is transformed into other chlorine-containing compounds, although some perchlorate remains unburned.

The resulting smoke plume and fallout from this plume contains metal particles, combustion byproducts, and unburned perchlorate that can be deposited onto nearby soils and water bodies. These materials can temporarily increase contaminant levels in the environment and, depending on the frequency and scale of fireworks displays, may affect soil and water quality.

By Nora Doonan, Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA

We Need Your Input!

The UConn Home and Garden Education Center is asking for your input to help guide future programs and services. Please take a few minutes to complete our needs assessment survey and share what topics, resources, and support would be most helpful to you.

Your feedback will help shape upcoming educational offerings and strengthen our ability to serve Connecticut gardeners.

Thank you for your feedback!

If you have any questions about this survey, please email us at ladybug@uconn.edu

Take the Survey!

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

45 Things to Do in Connecticut this July

Celebrate America's 250th Birthday throughout the month with events statewide!

Introducing Connecticut's Natural History Collections! - July 11, Hampton CT

Learn About Lava: Connecticut's Geologic History - July 11th, Simsbury CT

Visit one of CT's many Historic Gardens

The Sky's the Limit Walking Challenge for 2026 has started!

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

Good Bug Bad Bug with Pamm Cooper
July 21, 2026 - 5:30 PM
Hosted by the North Stonington Garden Club

Native Plants for Cultivated Spaces with Lauren Kurtz
July 23 2026 - 6:00 PM
Hosted by the Thompson Public Library
Register

July Gardening Tips

If your cool season annuals have died off, pull them out and add them to your compost pile. Sometimes a severe shearing, water and fertilizer will bring them back to life. Often they are best replaced with heat tolerant annuals.

Container and hanging plants may need additional water later in the day if hot and windy conditions prevail. Check plants again at day’s end to see if any additional water is necessary.

Water early in the morning to reduce the loss of water to evaporation during the hottest days.

Pinching back herbs to stop flowering will keep the best flavor in the leaves and encourage branching. Herbs can be air dried, dried quickly in the microwave, or frozen.

Mulch garden beds to help conserve water.

Put netting on fruit trees and bushes a few weeks before the fruit begins to ripen to protect it from birds and squirrels.

Tomato hornworms are large green caterpillars that feed on the leaves of tomatoes and related plants. Hand-pick or control with Bacillus thuringiensis. Do not remove caterpillars that are covered in white pupae as they have been parasitized by beneficial wasps.

Inspect garden plants regularly for insect and disease problems. Good sanitation practices and insect traps are alternatives to pesticides.

If grubs were a problem in previous years, apply grub control no later than July 15th so that it is systemically in place in grass roots when the grubs hatch in early August.

Mosquitoes breed in standing water. To discourage them, change the water in bird baths and outdoor pet dishes every few days.

Check family members and pets for ticks after being outside, especially when in tall grass or wooded areas. If necessary, send ticks to the Connecticut Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory for testing.

More July Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

A Cold Spring, Garden Design and other June News

Posted on June 1, 2026June 5, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Soil temperatures are warm and slower to shift compared to air temperatures. Warm soil will help keep plants warm during these cold snaps, especially when you are able to build a small, cloth tent around your tender plants when cold nights are in the forecast.
Mulch can also help stabilize the temperature in the garden, protecting against short term temperature extremes.

Many plants in the garden, if properly transitioned before being planted earlier this month, are likely to have hardened off. A few cold nights may cause stress, but should not kill the plants.

Cold temperatures can cause stunting or delayed growth, especially in warm season crops like tomatoes, basil, peppers and eggplant.

Physical signs of cold damage can include browning or purpling foliage, wilting or deformation or flower/leaf drop

Plants will recover from cold damage without much intervention. If able, water plants thoroughly before temperature drops, as moist soil retains more heat than dry soil. After the event, continue normal watering as needed to prevent drought stress, but avoid fertilizing until plants resume active growth.
Injured plant tissue does not heal in the sense that damage will be reversed over time. Look for healthy, unblemished new growth as a sign of the plant's recovery.

Delay pruning until the danger of additional temperature dips have passed and new growth appears. At that point, remove clearly dead or damaged tissue.

Be patient! At times, damage may take time to appear. If growth delays have occurred, there is still plenty of growing season left for your plants to recover and produce.

Garden Design Tips

Are you establishing a new garden bed at home? Use these tips to help you create a purposeful and balanced garden design.

Avoid planting in straight rows. Utilize curves and natural lines to create a design that the eye can follow smoothly. Stagger plants in the landscape to make plantings look intentional, but not too structured.

Plant in groups of odd numbers. This helps to create a more natural look. Even pairs often gives the impression of too much uniformity

Plan for each season. In perennial gardens, especially, leave space for plants that flower in other seasons for a long display of color.

When planting within the same season, it is important to select flower colors that blend well together. However, if one perennial flowers in summer, and another flowers in fall, it is much less likely that they will overlap and contrast one another.

Keep mature size in mind. It can be very tempting to plant masses of plants that are fresh out of the pot. But even those one gallon perennials may get pretty big after a couple of seasons. Whenever you are planting trees, shrubs and perennials, it is important to consider what their final, mature size will be so that you can leave enough room. Consider putting annuals in between during years your plants are establishing to better fill the space.

Basic Garden Design

Interesting Insects: Four Lined Plant Bug

Egg hatch can be as early as late April in Connecticut. Nymphs develop and feed for about a month, reach adult stage and mate Eggs are laid on the host plants where they overwinter. There is thankfully only one generation a year. Feeding injury from nymphs and adults causes black or brown sunken spots to form on the foliage host plants. These areas may be mistaken for leaf spot diseases. There are over 250 host plants including mints, herbs, dandelions, thistles and other plants. Cut down host plants and remove material in the fall as eggs may have been inserted into them.

Four Lined Plant Bug

Invasive Plants to Scout for in June

A leafy green shrub with clusters of small white flowers and yellow centers growing in a sunlit garden bed, surrounded by grass and other plants. — Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Look for flowering invasives now and remove them before they set seeds.

Depending on site conditions and local timing, invasives flowering in June in Connecticut include Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus), multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora), Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), burning bush (Euonymus alatus), and dame's rocket (Hesperis matronalis).

Removing invasives before they set seed will prevent them from spreading more seeds into the environment. The management strategy to use varies by habitat and species. Visit the Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group website for more specific information.

CT Invasive Plant Working Group

Large deciduous tree with bright green leaves standing in an open grassy yard under a clear blue sky, with houses and other trees showing early fall color in the background. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

This native tree is known for its heart-shaped leaves, bean- like fruits and large clusters of showy white flowers with yellow and purple spots inside. Flowers are visited during the day by hummingbirds, bees, and moths and by night by many diverse species of moths, especially sphinx moths. The large trees have angular branching that makes for winter interest.

Learn More About Northern Catalpa

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Native Plant-Fungal Associations

This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on native plant associations with fungi in Connecticut (CT). These associations occur across several types of mycorrhizal fungi, each interacting with plants in unique ways. Mycorrhizal fungi form symbiotic relationships with the roots of most land plants. Overall, these fungi can enhance nutrient uptake, improve water absorption, aid in pathogen and disease suppression, stress response, and improve soil function for plants.

The lady slipper orchid (Cypripedium species) is an example of a highly specialized symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal soil fungi. The fungus invades the orchid seeds and provides vital carbohydrates and nutrients required for germination and seedling development, continuing to aid the mature plant in return for water and soil minerals. Another example is the ghost pipe (Monotropa uniflora), which is a plant that is found in deeply shaded CT forests. This plant steals nutrients from Ericoid mycorrhizal fungi connected to surrounding trees. Ericoid mycorrhizal fungi form sheaths around plant roots and create a network of hyphae between root cells without penetrating the cells, called Hartig net. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) is another native plant that benefits from mycorrhizal associations, specifically with arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi. These fungi penetrate root cells and create specialized structures called arbuscules, which facilitates the exchange between the fungus and the plant.

These hidden underground partnerships play a vital role in maintaining healthy forests, resilient ecosystems, and productive soils throughout Connecticut.

By Nora Doonan, Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA

We Need Your Input!

Your feedback will help shape upcoming educational offerings and strengthen our ability to serve Connecticut gardeners.

Thank you for your feedback!

If you have any questions about this survey, please email us at ladybug@uconn.edu

Take the Survey!

June Gardening Tips

Keep on top of weeds during the early summer when they are small and easy to pull. If you keep your garden plants well-watered and fertilized, they will quickly fill in bare spaces and give weeds fewer places to grow.

Sow seeds of fast-growing annuals like marigolds, zinnias, and cosmos directly in the garden

Lightly cultivate soil after a heavy rain to avoid compaction. A layer of mulch reduces the soil crusting and compaction caused by raindrops.

You can move houseplants outside to the deck or patio and enjoy them outdoors for the summer. It is best to gradually introduce them to more direct sunlight to prevent the leaves from being burned.

There is still time to sow seeds of beans, beets, carrots, cucumbers, and summer squash.

Harvest early season fruits such as strawberries when they are at their peak.

Do not use a pre-emergent weed control if you are trying to germinate seeds in the same area.

Heavy rains encourage slug problems. Check for slugs during rainy periods and hand pick the pests.

June bugs, can be annoying as they bounce on your window screens attracted by your house lights. The larvae do eat plant roots and the adult beetles forage on trees and shrubs although they do not seem to cause the excessive damage associated with Oriental beetles or Japanese beetles.

Mosquitoes breed in standing water. To discourage them, change the water in bird baths and outdoor pet dishes every few days.

Mow lawns often enough to remove no more than one-third the total height per mowing. There is no need to remove clippings unless excessive or diseased.

More June Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Putting Plants Outside, Lilacs, Butterflies & Other May News

Posted on May 1, 2026May 12, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

The George Leigh Minor Plant & Soil Health Center move has been delayed due to unforeseen circumstances.

The Home Garden Education Office will be closed for walk-in services starting April 27th. Our target reopening date in our new location is now May 18th.

For the comfort and safety of our clients, our office will be closed to the public until our re-opening. Please continue to use our phone and email support during this time. If you are planning to send samples to the Plant Diagnostic Lab or Home Garden Education Office, please call ahead for shipping instructions. Thank you for your understanding.

Closures may also impact the Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab and the UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab. Please check with them directly for more information regarding closures during the move.

Houseplants

To give your houseplants a refresh and encourage healthy growth, begin acclimating them to outdoor conditions for the upcoming summer. On warm days, move your plants outside, while avoiding locations that endure direct exposure to sun or harsh winds. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50-60°F, it is an appropriate time to begin keeping plants outside overnight.

For plants that prefer a sunnier environment, gradually expose them to locations in direct sun over a period of two weeks. If nighttime temperatures dip below 50°F, move plants inside for the night, being sure to check for insects beforehand.

Moving Indoor Plants Outside for the Summer

Vegetables

Cool season vegetables including leafy greens, brassicas, and root vegetables may be able to go outside before your houseplants, but they need the same care in transitioning them from inside to out.

If you have warm season plants like peppers, tomatoes or eggplant, be sure to keep them warm just a little bit longer. Peppers, especially, like warm soil and warm air temperatures to grow well.

If your plants aren't ready but you're itching to do something, consider transplanting them into 4 inch pots them so that they can continue to grow comfortably while they wait to go outside.

Keep Your Seedlings Going Strong

Hanging Baskets & Annuals

Annuals are tender and most commonly do best in temperatures similar to our houseplants. When temperatures are consistently above 50-60°F at night, they should be safe to go outside permanently.

There are some exceptions to the rule, like Pansies, and other cool season flowers that may tolerate and even thrive in lower temperatures. We still recommend taking the precautions to harden them off, especially if they were purchased from an indoor setting.

Selecting, Hardening, and Planting Bedding Plants

Perennials & Shrubs

In most cases, shrubs and perennials should be safe to go out as soon as you purchase them. Especially if they seem to have been stored outside at the nursery. If you're walking through a greenhouse to select your plant material, it may be an indicator that it isn't ready for low nighttime temps and may be especially sensitive to late spring frosts.

First year perennials started indoors or in greenhouses may need to be hardened off, the same way tender houseplants, vegetables and annuals are. Ask your local nursery professional if you have questions about plant readiness.

Hardening Transplants

Interesting Insects: Tiger Swallowtail Butterflies

Yellow tiger swallowtail butterfly with black stirpes resting among clusters of pale bluet flowers with yellow centers in a sunlit meadow. — Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Tiger swallowtail butterflies can be seen by late April when crabapples and native little bluets (Houstonia caerulea) are flowering. They visit both flowers for much needed nectar. Bluets often form large stands on lawns and woodland edges where there is a good amount of sun. Tiger swallowtails use small black cherry and tulip trees as caterpillar host plants. They breed as early as May.

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail

Spring is For Lilacs

Bumblebees on fall blooming lilacs — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

To maintain the striking beauty of your lilacs for many years to come, practice regular pruning techniques. As a spring-blooming shrub, lilacs develop new buds for the next season following the current year’s flowering period is complete.
For this reason, prune immediately after bloom (often in May) to avoid removing next year’s flowers. Deadhead by pruning spent blooms promptly to promote strong flowering next year. Late spring is also the ideal time to practice renewal pruning. Cut back old growth (tall and overgrown stems) at the base, allowing light to reach previously shaded areas.

Over the course of a few seasons utilizing this technique, lilacs will appear fuller and vigorous with new shoots and flowers blooming on lower areas. Lilacs can be shaped according to your preferences by pruning during this time as well.

Yellow-green tulip tree flower with orange stamens opening among bright green, lobed leaves on a sunlit branch; a small “© Pamm Cooper” watermark appears in the lower right — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

The tulip tree Liriodendron tulipifera, commonly known as yellow poplar or tulip poplar, is a fast-growing, deciduous native of eastern North America that belongs to the Magnolia family.

It has attractive green, yellow, and orange flowers in May that resemble tulips. It is one of the largest North American native trees and sometimes reaches over 200 feet in height. Its leaves are distinctive, forming a broad, flat apex that ends at right angles to the midvein.

Learn More About Tulip Tree

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Soil Mates: Finding Your Perfect Topsoil Match

From homeowners to landscapers, farmers to developers, many purchase topsoil for
their yearly plants and projects. Topsoil is the surface layer of soil, and can range in thickness from zero to twelve inches depending on how much the soil is worked. Deciding which topsoil you purchase can make or break your season, and inspection is important! Before committing to one topsoil, take a look at the soil stock pile and make sure there is no trash, large rocks, or debris. Soil texture, or the ratio of sand, silt, and clay in a soil, can greatly impact your topsoil. Some great soil textures for your topsoil include loamy sands, loams, silt loams, and sandy clay loams. Many other factors could influence the success of your topsoil, including organic matter and possible amendments. Purchasing a quality topsoil is vital to your soil health, so make sure you get the perfect match!

By Zaira O’Leary, Soil Science Master’s Student, UConn PSLA

We Need Your Input!

Your feedback will help shape upcoming educational offerings and strengthen our ability to serve Connecticut gardeners.

Thank you for your feedback!

If you have any questions about this survey, please email us at ladybug@uconn.edu

Take the Survey!

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

40 Things to Do in Connecticut this May

Mother's Day and Memorial Day are this month!

Elizabeth Park History & Grounds Tour - May 13th, Hartford CT

The Sky's the Limit Walking Challenge for 2026 has started!

Crevice Gardening: Even more than it’s cracked up to be – CT Horticultural Society - May 15th, Middletown CT

Join Us at Upcoming Talks

Gardening for Butterflies with Pamm Cooper
May 7, 2026 - 6:00 PM
Plainville Library
56 East Main St, Plainville, CT 06062Good Bug/Bad Bug/Benign Bug with Pamm Cooper
May 11, 2026 - 1:00PM
Hosted by the Redding Garden Club
Redding Community Center
37 Lonetown Rd, Redding CT 06896

May Gardening Tips

Remove spent blooms on tulips, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs. The plant will focus its energy on growing new bulbs rather than producing seeds

Plant dahlias, gladioli, cannas and other summer flowering bulbs

Lift, divide and replant late summer and fall-blooming perennials such as asters, mums, and sedum

Disinfect all pots and containers before refilling them for the season

Check to see if your houseplants are root bound. Water them thoroughly and carefully remove them from their pots. If the roots have compacted around the outside of the root ball, it is time to repot.

Have frost protection fabric or cloches, such as you can buy at garden stores, ready for unexpected late spring frosts

Do not use a pre-emergent weed control if you are trying to germinate seeds in the same area.

Check family members and pets for ticks after being outside, especially when in tall grass or wooded areas. If necessary send ticks to the Connecticut Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory for testing.

Hummingbirds and orioles return to northern states by mid-May. Clean and refill feeders to attract these colorful birds to your backyard or fill hanging baskets with flowers that will attract them such as petunias, salvia, and fuchsia

Disinfect bird baths with a 10 to 1 solution of water and bleach. Rinse well.

Add water lilies to your pond when the water temperature reaches 70° F.

More May Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Invasives, Insect Eggs, Starting your Garden & Other April Gardening News

Posted on April 1, 2026April 1, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

The UConn Home Garden Education Office & some of it's collaborators will be moving into the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center on the week of April 27th. During the move, we will be closed to the public with limited phone/email availability to allow for a smooth transition. Our office be closed April 27th through May 1st and will reopen May 4th to help with your gardening needs, just in time for the growing season!

Closures may also impact the Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab and the UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab. Please check with them directly for more information regarding office closures during the move.

Catch Invasives in April

In April, many invasive plants are among the first to leaf out, making them easier to spot before other vegetation fills in.

Watch for green patches of lesser celandine carpeting moist lawns, stream banks, and woodland edges. The early leaves of Japanese honeysuckle vines can be found climbing shrubs and fences. Invasive shrubs including Japanese barberry and multiflora rose leaf out early and are seen on woodland edges and interior woods. This is an ideal time to scout your property, flag infestations, and plan management before these species flower and set seed later in the season.

The First Signs of Spring: Spotting Invasive Plants

Finally, be on the lookout for Spotted Lanternfly egg masses. This insect is invasive and destructive to grapevines, hops, stone fruit trees, and hardwood trees. It lays its eggs on any hard surface, such as trees, stones, fences, firewood, or vehicles. Egg masses will appear as columns of brownish seed-like deposits, about an inch long. When you locate egg masses, first smash them, and then scrape them off the surface into a plastic zip bag filled with hand sanitizer or rubbing alcohol. Then, zip the bag shut and throw it away. Finally, report the location of egg masses to the CT Agricultural Experiment Station.

When Do I Get to Start Gardening?

When we have a few days of warm, sunny weather, gardeners get excited to get out and get to work!

Experienced gardeners tend to observe patterns and find natural milestones of when to start doing certain tasks. As an example, when the forsythia bloom, we often simultaneously see more activity in the garden and in the soil. This can act as a cue for certain management strategies in the garden.

If you dive into the phenology of our plants and insects, you will find that temperature consistency in various environments or conditions (soil, and air during the day or at night) fall pretty close in step with these observations, adding some scientific support to these methods.

However, New England Springs can throw us a curveball from time to time, and unpredictable conditions can throw our schedules significantly. Not too long ago, a late spring frost damaged many plants already in the ground!

To take it a step further, looking at Growing Degree Days can help you determine when specific species of plants or insects may be emerging. Use this indicator to help you identify when to implement preventative measures for tricky garden pests or to help you determine if it's time to clean out your winter pollinator habitat with greater confidence.

For a strong garden strategy, use a combination of tools including growing degree day calculators, soil temperature monitors, and your own observations of phenology to help you determine when the best time for any activity garden is for your specific location.

Close-up of sweet fern twigs with emerging curled leaves and fuzzy brown catkins, set against a woodland background of dry grasses and leafless trees under a blue sky. — Sweet Fern starting to leaf out in March. Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Sweet fern, Comptonia peregrina, is a native shrub commonly found in acidic, dry, sandy soils. It is usually found in full sun but also can tolerate partial shade.

Look for it on slopes, roadsides, and disturbed sites such as power line rights-of-ways. Its fernlike leaves are aromatic when crushed. It flowers as early as March as it begins to leaf out. It is superb as a soil stabilizer on sandy slopes and where sandy soils support little else. It can form colonies over time via strong rhizomes.

Learn More About Sweet Fern

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Wait Now, Thrive Later: Soil Compaction

This month, we’re bringing you a word on preventing soil compaction with spring patience. As temperatures rise heading into April, it’s exciting to start thinking about spring garden preparations. After a long winter and snowmelt, our soils are holding plenty of moisture, so giving them a little extra time can make a big difference. Working in soil that’s too wet, whether it be by walking on it or using equipment, can lead to soil compaction, sometimes referred to as the “silent thief” of plant growth. Compacted soil reduces the space roots need to grow, making it harder for plants to access water and nutrients.

The good news? It’s easy to check if your soil is ready. Just grab a handful of your soil and squeeze it and if it crumbles apart, you’re good to go! If it sticks together in a clump, it’s best to wait a little longer. A bit of patience now helps to create healthier soil, stronger roots, and a more successful garden all season long. Your plants will thank you!

By Josenia Lopez, Plant Science Undergraduate Student

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

34 Things to do in Connecticut This April

Celebrate Earth Day (Apr. 22) & Arbor Day (Apr. 24) with celebrations around the state!

Tree Rings & Earth Things - April 16th, Hampton CT

Gardens of the Gilded Age - April 29th, Hartford CT

Local Farmers Markets, CSAs and farm stands start opening in April

Naturally Natchaug Clean Water Festival - May 2nd, Mansfield CT

George Leigh Minor Plant & Soil Health Center Open House - May 16th, Storrs CT

Join Us at Upcoming Talks

Slime Molds & Lichens with Pamm Cooper
April 13, 2026 - 1:00 PM
Hosted by the Avon Garden Club
The Church of St. Ann, 289 Arch Rd., Avon, CT

April Gardening Tips

Pull back mulch from perennials to allow the soil to warm up but be prepared to temporarily cover them if heavy frosts are predicted.

Freezing temperatures don’t harm pansies, but if they have been grown in a greenhouse they should be gradually exposed to outdoor temperatures before planting. Flowers can be damaged in frosts, but plants will survive.

Weather permitting, direct sow peas, carrots, radishes, lettuces, and spinach every two weeks through mid-May for staggered harvests.

Don't wait too long to remove mulches from strawberries. Once the leaves have emerged from under the straw and yellowing is evident, pull the mulch away from the tops of the plants and tramp it down between the rows. Keeping the base of the plants mulched helps keep the berries clean, controls weeds, and conserves moisture.

Check fruit trees for Eastern tent caterpillars, they emerge around the same time as leaves sprout. Blast nests with a strong spray of water to destroy them.

Apply pre-emergent crabgrass weed control when soil temperatures reach 50°F. Use a tool like this soil temperature map to track your timing.

Do not use a pre-emergent weed control if you are trying to germinate seeds in the same area.

Complete removal of diseased, weak, or crossing branches on shrubs and small trees.

Place peony supports.

Start cleaning containers and pots so they are ready for planting.

Divide overcrowded summer or fall blooming perennials.

More April Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Snow Cover, Lighting Needs, Snow Fleas, and More March News

Posted on March 3, 2026March 5, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Outdoor metal tables and chairs covered in deep snow, with large mounds of snow piled on top and around them in a winter landscape. — Photo by Sean Flynn/UConn Photo

It's been a temperamental winter! With extreme cold and lots of snow, many have asked us what to expect for their garden plants and even pest populations.

Snow acts as nature's insulation during the winter. A heavy layer of snow will help keep temperatures at and below the soil level stable when compared to air temperatures like the blustery cold we've experienced this winter. Plant root zones are quite content with both a consistent temperature, and lots of available water about to saturate their root systems with the snow melting and forecasted rain.

The bigger risk to plants is freezing and thawing. Snow weighing down branches can also lead to physical damage in the form of broken branches. As the snow thaws and refreezes, ice crystals surrounding evergreen needles can cause damage as well. In the more mild winters we've observed in previous years, freeze and thaw cycles lead to frost heaving, which leaves plant roots susceptible to winter damage.

Piles of snow mixed with de-icing salts can cause trouble if on or near ornamental plants. Be sure to flush these areas with clean water in the spring to help reduce salinity in the soil.

Lighting Needs for Starting Seeds Indoors

Seed tray with soil-filled compartments and tiny green seedlings emerging. Clear plastic lid with condensation droplets, indicating a humid environment. — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Most windowsills in Connecticut are not bright enough or warm enough in late winter for starting seeds indoors.

For sturdy seedlings, you’ll want to choose bright, full‑spectrum lights. Use LED or fluorescent fixtures rather than incandescent bulbs and keep them six to eight inches above the seedlings. Raise the lights as seedlings grow to prevent burning the leaves or leggy growth. Aim for 14 to 16 hours of light per day and use a timer, so seedlings get consistent lighting each day.

The start of spring signals houseplants to resume active growth. To maintain healthy houseplants during this stage of their life, ensure proper humidity conditions in the growing environment are met.

Spring air is often dry, depleting plants of moisture necessary to maintain their vigor. To promote humidity, place plants atop a tray of water with pebbles, mist occasionally, or set up a humidifier nearby. Do not mist leaves, however, since this can create a favorable environment for disease.

Spring into action: easy tips for thriving houseplants

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Top Soil Tragedy: The Invasive Jumping Worm

The invasive jumping worm, resembling the European earthworm, is typically identified by the thick white band encircling the body (clitellum), their “jumping” and erratic movements, and are typically surrounded by coffeeground-like castings.

This pest is becoming a prominent issue in Connecticut, rapidly devouring organic matter and altering soil properties. Unlike the European earthworms, jumping worms produce castings that are hardened via mucus into clumps, and turn the top layer of soil rapidly into a heavily granular texture. These large castings negatively influence the surrounding environment and plants, making it harder for plant roots to securely anchor into the ground, take up water, nutrient absorption, and can cause rapid decline within an
area.

As of now, there is no standard method of eradicating or controlling the jumping worm population, however, there are some steps you can take to stay proactive and protect against the wicked worm, such as inspecting any root balls before planting, and using soil produced from a reputable source.

By Zaira O’Leary, Soil Science Master’s Student, UConn PSLA

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

36 Things to do in Connecticut this March

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

Attend a UConn Master Gardener Course! (Various dates and various locations)

Ecological Landscaping & Green Infrastructure Workshop Series

Join Us at Upcoming Talks

How to be an IPM Detective with Heather Zidack
March 5, 2026 - 1:00 PM
Hosted by the Wethersfield Garden Club
Solomon Welles House, Wethersfield, CT
Event Link - Please RSVP to wethersfieldgardenclubest1926@gmail.com

Good Bug/Bad Bug with Pamm Cooper
March 10, 2026 - 12:15 PM
Hosted by Leete's Island Garden Club
Nathaniel Greene Community Center
Guilford, CT

Gardening with Native Plants with Pamm Cooper
March 16, 2026 - 6:30 PM
Hosted by the Lutz Children's Museum
Manchester, CT

Connecticut Butterflies with Pamm Cooper
March 23, 2026
Hosted by East Hartford Garden Club
617 Hill St. East Hartford, CT

March Gardening Tips

Seeds of annuals that require 10-12 weeks of growth before transplanting can be started indoors now.

Using sterile growing mix for starting seeds reduces problems with damping-off fungi. Avoid overwatering, which encourages root rots.

Move woody plants before they begin new spring growth; transplant as soon as the soil is workable.

Prune out and destroy dark, swollen black knot galls on twigs of cherry and plum before budbreak. On trees, shrubs, fruiting bushes and vines, prune off and destroy cankered twigs and any branches showing dieback. Prune shortly before budbreak, or wait until just after leaves have expanded.

When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.

Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects.

Carefully remove winter mulches from planting beds as snow melts and temperatures warm but leave it nearby so that tender plants may be recovered if there is a frost.

After the snow melts, flush areas that have been exposed to de-icing salts around the roots with fresh water.

Keep any birdseed and pet food that is stored in the garage in tightly covered containers to prevent rodents and wildlife from getting into it.

Start cleaning containers and pots so they are ready for planting.

Save plastic milk jugs or 2-liter containers to use as individual hot caps or cloches. They will fit nicely over small garden plants, creating a free miniature greenhouse.

More March Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Tree ID, The Winter Garden, Birding, and other February News

Posted on February 3, 2026February 3, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Snow-covered landscape with a large tree in the foreground, a wooden bench by a frozen pond, and bright sunlight shining through the tree’s branches against a clear blue sky. — Photo by Sean Flynn/UConn Photo

Believe it or not, winter is a great time to flex your tree identification skills. During the growing season, we have leaf shapes and arrangements to help us, but in the winter we have to look closer at the tree itself for answers.

Instead of leaves, closely examine bark, twigs and buds in the winter for clues. Assess the branching pattern, overall size and environmental location for other hints.

Like a proper gumshoe, check the ground for dropped leaves - keeping in mind that dropped leaves may be from the tree in question, or neighboring trees. These are best used for confirmation in addition to other characteristics.

There are plenty of resources and field guides out there to help you hone your skills. If you don't have a guide on hand, get good pictures so you can check them against a field guide when you are home. You can always send pictures to us for additional help!

Winter birding gets very interesting as many species are here only until early spring, and you need to get out soon to see them. The shoreline is a great place to find sanderlings, ruddy ducks, Brandt geese, dunlins and other winter visitors, but inland has its own thrills for winter birders.

Horned larks are just one- look for these where snow melts near fields and pastures where seed is abundant. We have these birds now at UConn's Horsebean Hill along the roads between pastures. They sometimes can be found at Meigs's Point, Hammonasset State Park, around the parking lot and grassy areas.

Clusters of small, round, grayish wax-coated berries growing tightly along the woody branches of a shrub, surrounded by green foliage — Photo by Ansel Oommen, Bugwood.org

Native to North America, bayberry (Myrica L.) is a deciduous shrub prevalent across eastern regions of the U.S. Northern bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) is the most prominent variety in coastal areas of the northeast. Thus, it prefers moist, acidic soil with full sun and is tolerant of shoreline conditions like salt spray and high winds. Northern bayberry also withstands periods of drought. Shrubs grow in clusters, often along slopes or banks, acting as a means of control against erosion.

Its dense, gray-green foliage has a narrow shape and a glossy appearance. Resin glands on leaf undersides produce a pleasant aroma when crushed. Northern bayberries are often dioecious—male and female flowers are on separate plants. Male and female flowers are both arranged in catkins. Male flowers are shades of dull yellow and green, while female flowers do not exhibit significant coloring—also lacking both sepals and petals. In the summer, female plants alone produce small, waxy fruit, provided that they are wind pollinated. Drupes can appear gray, white, or dull blue. Wildlife, mostly birds, utilizes them as a source of food. Bayberry fruit remains on shrubs until the following spring, sustaining the shrub with interest in appearance throughout all seasons.

Learn About Northern Bayberry

The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Biochar: Turning Waste into Soil Opportunity

This month, we’re bringing you a word on biochar—a carbon-rich material made by heating biomass (like wood chips, manure solids, or crop residues) under low-oxygen conditions. Think of it as “charcoal for soils,” designed not to burn, but to stay stable and interact with soil processes over the long term.

Why is biochar getting so much attention? First, it can help build soil carbon because a portion of biochar is resistant to decomposition, allowing carbon to remain in soil longer than many fresh organic inputs. Depending on the biochar type and the soil it’s applied to, biochar may also improve water holding, aggregate stability, and nutrient retention by increasing surface area and creating more sites that hold onto nutrients. In acidic soils, some biochar can even act as a mild liming material, nudging pH upward—though the effect varies a lot by feedstock and production temperature.

A quick note: biochar isn’t “one-size-fits-all.” Some biochar can contain salts or trace contaminants, and fresh biochar may temporarily tie up nutrients if it isn’t “charged” first. A practical tip is to pre-condition biochar by mixing it with compost, manure, or a nutrient solution before application, then incorporate it ahead of planting so it has time to equilibrate with the soil.

Biochar can be a powerful tool—especially when matched thoughtfully to soil needs and management goals.

By Zheng Yiling, Soil Science Graduate Student UConn PSLA

February Gardening Tips

This is the time to start small-seeded flowers such as begonias and petunias.

If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly.

If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!

If you are overwintering plants into your garage or cellar, check the soil to see if it needs water. If the soil is frozen, it may be in too cold of a spot.

When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.

Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects.

Now is the time to order bare-root fruit trees. Consider placing an order from one of the CT Conservation Districts Spring Plant sales.

When using salt to melt ice on walks and driveways, spread it carefully to avoid damage to lawns. Consider using sand or sawdust instead. After the snow melts, flush the area around the roots exposed to salt with fresh water.

Inspect hemlocks for woolly adelgid. Plan to apply a dormant horticultural oil treatment in April if the cottony egg masses are found at the base of needles.

Paint the handles of garden tools red or orange. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier to locate when you lay them down in the garden or on the lawn.

Whether you're shoveling snow, hauling firewood, out for a winter hike or playing in the snow make sure you're taking the proper safety precautions while out in the elements this winter!

More February Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Fungus Gnats, Invasive Plants, Wildlife, and other January News

Posted on January 1, 2026January 5, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Someone once said "There are two types of people in this world. People who have fungus gnats, and liars!"

It's a common issue that almost everyone has had to manage at one point or another with their houseplants. These tiny pests feed on fungus that grows on decaying root tissue in the soil, often caused by overwatering. While they may occasionally eat plant material, more often they're an indicator of a larger issue.

Scout often for an infestation, and try to let the soil dry out between waterings when possible to help keep them at bay. Chemical solutions out there are frequently short term solutions for infestations. They should be used in severe cases alongside cultural management practices for best results.

Scout for Invasives this Winter!

Dry grasses with feathery tops sway against a backdrop of leafless trees and a clear blue sky. — Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Invasive Phragmites asutralis (Common Reed) is especially easy to spot during the winter months while most other wetland plants collapse and become nondescript brownish patches on the landscape.

Invasive phragmites remains, standing tall in dense stands with rigid stems and large, persistent seed heads. This rhizomatous grass grows 5 to 10 feet tall, which makes it easy to spot along the frozen edges of wetlands and waterbodies. The winter visibility makes this an ideal time for landowners and managers to map infestations or plan future control efforts.

A tree with a twisted trunk and bulging knot-like structure, being strangled by invasive vines, surrounded by leafless trees and sparse vegetation. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Another common observation at this time of the year is choking and girdling damage caused by invasive vines like Asiatic or Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus). By bringing pruners with you as you scout, you can immediately respond to any damage you see from these vines on your property.

For Connecticut Bird Enthusiasts

UConn has worked in partnership with many organizations and agencies across the state to develop an online Bird Atlas. This project has been in the works since 2018 and is continuing to develop.

The atlas contains information on birds found in Connecticut and has a block map showing where they are found. They are currently working on species accounts which have specific information on individual birds such as the whistling ducks shown in the image.

CT Bird Atlas

False Turkeytail Fungus

Also called the golden curtain crust, Stereum ostrea is a plant pathogen and a wood decay fungus. Ostera means “oyster” and aptly describes its shell- like fruiting body which is made up of concentric circles of many colors.

It resembles the Trametes versicolor which is called the turkey tail fungus. Look for all turkey tail fungi on dead wood throughout the winter months on branches, logs, stumps of trees, especially of oaks, maples and elms. These are beneficial, aiding in the decomposition of dead wood and in recycling nutrients.

About False Turkey Tail

Bringing a pop of red to late fall and winter landscapes, winterberries (Ilex verticillata) bear brightly colored fruit which grows in clusters along its branches. This deciduous holly is native to eastern North America. Winterberries are often grown around ponds or swampy areas, as they are well-suited for moist, acidic soil environments.

As their common name implies, this type of holly is famed for its ability to produce vibrant red fruit which brightens otherwise dreary winter landscapes. To achieve this result, proper cross-pollination of plants must occur during blooming seasons. Winterberries are dioecious – meaning they have separate male and female plants. Female plants are capable of producing berries only after being fertilized by a nearby male plant. Generally, male plants can pollinate 20 female plants when they are within a 40-foot distance of each other.

Certain cultivars of female and male plants are paired with one another according to the compatibility of their blooming times.

Learn About Winterberry

Berry Good Pick for Winter Interest

The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

The Soil Life Under the Snow

As we inch towards shorter days, colder nights, and snow covered grounds, almost everyone is bundling up in heavy coats and winter boots, but what about life within the soil? You might think that soil life abruptly stops after the first snowflake, but that is often not the case.

Moles live in tunnels underground throughout the year, however, they do not hibernate and instead dig deeper to expand their tunnels in order to find food and protect themselves from the cold. Worms burrow deep into the ground, wind into a ball, cover themselves in a protective
slime coating, and enter a dormant state called (a)estivation. Microbes, a small but mighty community in soil, are still active during winter, and some bacteria even produce a chemical similar to antifreeze! Soil contains extremely diverse and essential communities, and just because the ground is freezing doesn’t mean they do!

By Zaira O’Leary, Soil Science Master’s Student, UConn PSLA

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

35 Things to do in Connecticut this January

Celebrate the New Year with a First Day Event, Hike, or Walk, January 1, Statewide

Get out of the cold and see butterflies up close! The Connecticut Science Center's Butterfly Encounter is open! Explore their all season butterfly habitat housing over 40 species of butterflies! If you're looking to take a day trip, Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatoryis in South Deerfield MA. This conservatory hatches and maintains its butterfly population year round as well.

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

2026 UConn Extension Vegetable and Small Fruit Growers Conference - January 8, Storrs CT

Basic Garden Maintenance: A Year-Long, Month by Month Plan - January 19, Vernon CT, 7-9pm
Join the Vernon Garden Club for a presentation and discussion detailing how to properly care for your perennial gardens all year long!
This free event is open to all, including non-members and non-residents of Vernon. No pre-registration required.

First Congregational Church of Vernon
695 Hartford Turnpike, Vernon, CT 06066
Questions? VernonCTGardenClub@gmail.com

Attend a UConn Master Gardener Course! (Various dates and various locations)

Join Us at Upcoming Talks

Walk on the Wild Side with Pamm Cooper
January 7, 2026 - 6:00 PM
Hosted by the Whiton Branch Library
100 North Main Street
Manchester, CT 06042

January Gardening Tips

Check for frost heaving on perennials during thaws and press back into place. Cover the crowns with extra mulch as necessary.

Start seeds of pansies, dusty miller, browallia, begonias, snapdragons, and delphiniums indoors under lights.

Do not wait until late in the winter to order seeds as many of the seed companies most popular varieties sell out early.

To determine how many seeds to order, map out your garden on graph paper, allowing adequate space between rows and ample room for vining crops such as pumpkins and winter squash.

At month's end, start seeds of onions, leeks, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower indoors under lights.

Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects.

Don't walk on frozen grass, especially if there is no snow cover. Without the protection of snow, grass blades are easily broken causing die-back in your lawn.

Avoid using salt to melt ice on driveways and sidewalks which may end up on the lawn, when possible use sand or kitty litter. This will help prevent salt damage to plant roots.

Prune away storm-damaged branches promptly to prevent tearing of the bark. When pruning large limbs, always undercut first. This means to cut from the bottom up, one-third of the way through the limb, then finish by cutting from the top. The undercut keeps the limb from splitting and breaking off, which could damage the trunk and become an entryway for insects and diseases. Do not cut flush to the trunk as the collar or enlarged base of a branch produces hormones that help heal wounds.

Bring pruning tools inside and clean them for the upcoming season. Disassemble hand pruners, and loppers. Sharpen the blades, oil the levers, and remove any rust.

Whether you're shoveling snow, hauling firewood, out for a winter hike or playing in the snow make sure you're taking the proper safety precautions while out in the elements this winter!

More January Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Holiday Plants, Forcing Bulbs, Hawks & Other December News

Posted on December 2, 2025December 3, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Force Bulbs Now for Late-Winter Cheer

Pink tulips in full bloom arranged in a red glass vase, placed on a wooden floor in sunlight near a wall and door. — Photo by Holly McNamara, Uconn Plant Diagnostic Lab

December is your last chance to encourage spring bulbs to bloom during the late winter gloom of February and March. Paper Whites, Daffodils, Amaryllis, Iris, Tulips, Hyacinth, and Crocus can produce enticing fragrances and colors during these otherwise bleak winter conditions.

Forcing is the process of “tricking” bulbs into sprouting and blooming under artificially imposed conditions. There are often cultivars available for purchase that are specifically bred for forcing. Bulbs can be planted in commercial potting soil. Make sure there are at least 2” of soil beneath the bulbs to allow for root growth, in a pot with adequate drainage holes. With this technique, bulbs may be planted very close together for an aesthetically pleasing product. A 6” diameter pot can hold 3 large bulbs (hyacinth), 5-6 medium bulbs (tulips or daffodils), or up to 15 small bulbs (crocus).

With the exception of paperwhites, most spring blooming bulbs must be subjected to a minimum of twelve weeks of cold temperatures, anywhere from 35-50°F, to prepare them for growth. This can be achieved by placing the pot in an unheated garage, crawl space, or refrigerator. After this cold period, the pot can be moved to a cool, sunny location, preferably between 50-60°F as the shoots and leaves begin to emerge. After one week, it can be moved to a warmer location out of direct sunlight. At this point in the process, the bulbs should bloom in three to four weeks.

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Happy World Soil Day!

This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on celebrating World Soil Day.
World Soil Day is December 5th, 2025 and the theme of this year’s celebration is Healthy Soils for Healthy Cities, emphasizing the need to consider the state of soil health in urban landscapes.

When we think of soil health, we often think about the soil in our home gardens or large-scale agricultural fields. Soil health practices are just as important in urban environments, but much of the soil is sealed away with cement and other impermeable surfaces. Healthy urban soil absorbs rainfall, reduces flooding, and supports effective stormwater management. It helps regulate temperature and can lessen the urban heat island effect. It also stores carbon, can help to improve air quality, and supports biodiversity by providing a habitat for urban wildlife.

Beyond the environmental benefits, it also can enhance human well-being. It can improve mental and physical health by generating more opportunities for outdoor recreation and strengthening connection with nature. By recognizing and sharing the value of healthy urban soils with others, we can help to rethink urban spaces and promote more resilient and healthier cities.

By Nora Doonan – Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

38 Things to do in Connecticut this December

Find holiday gifts at local craft fairs!

Take a holiday train ride at the Essex Steam Train, the CT Trolley Museum or the Railroad Museum of New England

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

126th Annual National Audubon Society Christmas Bird Count - Statewide, Multiple Dates

2026 UConn Extension Vegetable and Small Fruit Growers' Conference - January 8th, 2026, Storrs CT

Attend a UConn Master Gardener Course! (Various dates and various locations)

Join Us at Upcoming Talks

Good Bug/Bad Bug with Pamm Cooper
December 13, 2025 - 2:00 PM
Hosted by the Mary Cheney Public Library
586 Main Street
Manchester, CT 06040

December Gardening Tips

Holiday plants, including amaryllis, mistletoe, and yew are toxic and should be kept away from children and pets. Contact Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 immediately if you suspect a problem.

Be sure to keep poinsettia away from heat sources, drafts, and cold air. Keep soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Poinsettia that dry out droop dramatically and drop their flowers. Try something a bit more unusual like a cyclamen or kalanchoe for holiday plants.

Decorative foil around the roots of holiday plants can hold water and drown them. Either remove it when you water, or poke drainage holes in the foil and use a saucer

Consider protecting vulnerable plants from heavy snow sliding from the roof (see image)

Build a physical barrier of mesh galvanized steel hardware cloth (1/4 to 1/2 inch) around the base of vulnerable trees to prevent voles from feeding

Harvest any leeks and root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips that are still in the garden

Check produce that you have in storage. Sort out any that show signs of disease and dispose of them

Do not use fertilizer to melt ice. This creates nitrogen runoff issues that could damage local bodies of water

Tap the evergreen branches gently to remove snow and ice to prevent the branches from breaking

Store your opened bags of fertilizer in a sealed plastic bag or plastic waterproof container with a snugly fitting lid in a dry location to avoid caking

If you have a real Christmas tree, recycle it after the holidays are through. Cut off branches and use as insulation over perennials. In spring, chip or shred branches to create mulch or add to the compost pile

More December Gardening Tips

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events

Watch for More Information Soon
s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

Phone:	(877) 486-6271
E-mail:	ladybug@uconn.edu
Address:	27A Manter Road, Unit 4115 Storrs, CT, 06269
More:	Hours: Monday to Friday, 8:30 am to 4:00 pm

O sweet September rain! I hear it fall upon the garden beds, Freshening the blossoms which begin to wane...

Peonies

Spotted Lanternfly & Tree of Heaven

Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Pokeweed - A Native Nusiance

Interesting Insects: American Lady Butterflies

Native Plant Highlight: Beaked Hazelnut

Beaked Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta)

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

Word from the WiSE

Weather Outlook

Knowledge to Grow On

Read our Latest Publications Written Weekly

Find Us in the Media

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

Events & Learning Opportunities from UConn Extension

George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center Open House

UConn Master Composter Program

2026 CIPWG Symposium

Ornamental & Turf Short Course Fall 2026

September Gardening Tips

“August is ripening grain in the fields blowing hot and sunny, the scent of tree-ripened peaches, of hot buttered sweet corn on the cob. Vivid dahlias fling huge tousled blossoms through gardens...”

Balancing Healthy Lawns and Sustainable Landscapes

Late Summer/Early Fall Lawn Care Chores

Fall Lawn Care Tips & Guides

Converting Underutilized Lawn to Landscape

Take Care of Your Hanging Baskets

Scout for Glossy Buckthorn

Interesting Insects: Smaller parasa

Native Plant Highlight: Summersweet

Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

Word from the WiSE

Weather Outlook

Knowledge to Grow On

Read our Latest Publications Written Weekly

Find Us in the Media

IMG_0885

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

5th Annual Intergrated Pest Managment Seminar for the Home Gardener

August Gardening Tips

"Dirty hands, iced tea, garden fragrances thick in the air and a blanket of color before me, who could ask for more?"

Why Aren't my Vegetables Growing?

Tomatoes

Peppers

Summer Squash

The New England Vegetable Management Guide

Scout for Summer Tomato Issues

Fungal

Viral

Other Issues

More Tomato Resources

Keeping Your Plants Hydrated This Summer

Watering During a Heat Wave

Deep Watering

Interesting Insects: Prionus Borers

Native Plant Highlight: Elderberry

Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis)

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

Word from the WiSE

Weather Outlook

Knowledge to Grow On

Read our Ladybug Blogs Written Weekly

Find Us in the Media

We Need Your Input!

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Join us at Upcoming Talks!

July Gardening Tips

We've Moved to Our New Location!

What Stays the Same

What Gets Better

"It is the month of June, The month of leaves and roses, When pleasant sights salute the eyes, And pleasant scents the noses..."

We Have Officially Moved to our New Location!

It's Been Cold - How Will It Affect My Garden?

What Can I Do?

Garden Design Tips

Interesting Insects: Four Lined Plant Bug

O sweet September rain!
I hear it fall upon the garden beds,
Freshening the blossoms which begin to wane...

"It is the month of June,
The month of leaves and roses,
When pleasant sights salute the eyes,
And pleasant scents the noses..."