Drought, Putting your Garden to Bed, Holiday Decorating & Other November News

Posted on November 1, 2024April 16, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Autumn Drought Woes

A sloped yard showing signs of drought stress. — Drought stress on a sloped lawn. Photo by Pamm Cooper

If you live in Connecticut, you're no stranger to the fact that we've had a very dry August, September and October. Enough so that these drought conditions have started to adversely affect plants in our gardens. Keep these tips in mind to help your plants become resilient in these adverse conditions.

Maintain consistent watering practices until the ground freezes, especially in newly established plantings and young trees and shrubs

Avoid unnecessary pruning or trimming during drought conditions

Mulching can help conserve moisture in the soil

Many of us were spoiled by the heavy spring/early summer rains and did not get into the practice of watering consistently during the growing season. Our plants will start to show signs of stress now, and potentially in the next growing season. Learn what to monitor for and how to correct course this fall to help your plants have a better spring!

Helping Plants During the September-October Drought

Putting your Vegetable Garden to Bed

Garden in Autumn — Vetegable gardens need cleanup once killing frosts have come. Photo by H. Zidack

Part of fall clean-up in the yard is winterizing your vegetable garden. Here are a few things you can do to put your vegetable gardens to bed and prepare them for the next growing season:

Harvest everything. Store only mature fruits and vegetables and compost those that are rotting. Be sure to throw away infected vegetables and fruit.

Remove all plant debris and only compost those that are free of pests or diseases. Throw away any that are.
Have a soil test done now and amend if needed so the beds are ready for the next growing season.

Learn More about Putting Your Garden to Bed

Thanksgiving celebrates the autumn harvest, and dinner tables are often decorated with centerpieces of dried flowers, seed heads, grass plumes and ornamental branches. The winter holidays also have a long standing history of using evergreens, pinecones and berries to decorate homes.

Gardeners who practice this regularly may have established plants to harvest their decorations from. Those just starting out may not have everything they want/need. Here's a few tips to help you gather material to create your own holiday decorations:

Never remove something from property other than your own without permission

Take plant material from healthy plants. Clean pruners in between plants to avoid spreading diseases between plants

Inspect plant material for insects before bringing it into your home

Make sure you are able to accurately identify any plant material you bring into your home. This will help you prevent accidental exposure to irritants, allergens or toxic plants

Florists, craft stores, and even some farmers markets are a great source for pre-dried plant material
Looking for evergreens to make your own wreaths or window boxes? Florists, Christmas Tree Farms, and even Garden Centers may carry bulk greens in late November/Early December for decorating.
- If you already get your yearly "cut your own" Christmas tree, consider finding a slightly taller tree anduse the trimmings to create your door swags, wreaths, etc.

Fall Cleanup Provides an Opportunity for Dazzling Dried Bouquets

DIY Dried Flowers for Thanksgiving

Holiday Decorating with Fresh Greenery

Native Plant Highlight: Rhus aromatica

The Rhus aromatica 'Gro-low' fragrant sumac is a cultivar of R. Aromatica, which is native to North America from eastern Canada to Mexico. It is a good low- growing shrub to use as a groundcover in sites like slopes or when there is no supplemental watering.

They need well-drained soils and can grow in full sun or part shade. The small flowers attract pollinators, fruits attract songbirds, and leaves turn a striking orange in the fall. These plants are drought tolerant and resistant to rabbit feeding.

Learn More About Rhus aromatica

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology (WiSE) is a brand-new UConn student chapter of the national Ecological Society of America Women in Soil Ecology section. Their goal is to bring the world of soil ecology and soil science to home gardeners across Connecticut. In each of our Home & Garden Newsletters, they'll be sharing research-based facts and recommendations for ways to improve your garden, learn about best practices, and more, all from soil ecology and soil science perspectives.

Keep an eye on this section for great information and tips!

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Smith College Fall Chrysanthemum Show - Open November 2-14. Northampton, MA.
Support local farms, restaurants and businesses as you plan your Thanksgiving feasts!

Run off that turkey in a marathon or enjoy as a spectator:

A late Thanksgiving this year will give us a shortened holiday season for shopping and festivities. Start early to get the most of your experience!

Find holiday gifts at local craft fairs!

Find your Christmas Tree!

Glow Hartford opens November 29th this year! Enjoy an indoor light display and vendor fair.

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

Composting for Sustainability - Nov. 20, Westport, CT

Attend A Local Garden Club meeting, talk, or workshop

Eco-Holiday - Nov. 29 - Dec. 22, Derby CT. Decorators transform recyclable and throwaway materials into masterpieces representing eight biomes ranging from rain forest to desert.

UConn Educational Events

Student & A horse before a riding lesson — Charlotte and Grady on their way to a riding lesson.

The University of Connecticut's Animal Science Department offers a winter horseback riding program to the public with something for everyone!

Dressage, Hunt Seat, Polo and Western are open to adults and children who meet the minimum age and skill level requirements.

UConn Winter Riding Lessons

November Gardening Tips

With the weather we've been having, it's still a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!
Purchase some paperwhite bulbs and follow the directions for forcing bulbs so that they bloom for the holiday season

Mulch garlic plantings to prevent frost heaving

Finish the cleanup of the vegetable garden or beds, removing all plant debris

Asian lady beetles and Brown marmorated stink bugs may enter the home to overwinter. Use weather stripping or caulking to keep them out.

Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.

Continue to thoroughly water trees, shrubs, planting beds, lawn areas and recently planted evergreens until a hard frost. Plants should go into the winter well-watered.

It is not a good idea to leave fuel in the lawn mower or other gas-powered tools over winter. If there is some gasoline left, run the mower until it is used up.

Be sure to drain hoses and sprayers before cold weather sets in.

Cut back perennials that were covered in powdery mildew during the summer. Cut stalks to the ground and dispose of them.

Leave seed heads on ornamental grasses for winter interest.

More November Gardening Tips

Helping Plants During the September-October Drought

Posted on October 25, 2024October 23, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Here at the UConn Home and Garden Center we have been getting questions about lawn and garden issues that have been particularly widespread in the state. Whether in the landscape or the garden, there is always something going on, good or bad, and keeping up with pests or cultural issues can be challenging. Because of the extended late season drought conditions this year, plants may be showing signs of stress. There are some basic things homeowners can do to help plants go into winter as healthy as possible.

Plants in temperate climates, like we have in New England, are normally manufacturing food to enable carbohydrate storage for new growth that will occur next spring. To do this, plants need both sunlight and water, and our extended drought conditions have limited most plants to enter survival mode, and carb storage is a second priority. The best way to help your plants is to water deeply any that still have green leaves. People with wells may need to determine if this is a priority for them. We can hope for a warm winter or insulating snow cover to help any plants with shallow roots survive until warm weather returns.

Drought stress on dogwood leaves. Photo by John Ruter

One sign of drought stress in woody broadleaf plants is leaf edges that curl upward. This is a good clue as to the beginning of water stress. Make sure to water these plants deeply, to ensure roots will be able to pick up the water. Usually the next day, leaves will start to uncurl if adequate water is applied. If drought stress continues, leaves may turn brown at the edges and early leaf drop may occur.

Evergreens, even established ones, can benefit from regular watering as long as the soil is not frozen and drought conditions remain. Evergreen foliage, whether needles or leaves, photosynthesize all year, and it is important that soil is not dry. Normally, we have snow that melts on and off, and if soils are not frozen, roots will be able to take up water and photosynthesis can still take place.

Perennials of certain species may be doing fine in this drought. Yarrows, some ox-eyed daisy cultivars, obedient plants, goldenrods, mountain mints and Agastache may be showing no signs of stress. Still, if any have green leaves at this point, consider watering them if dry and warm conditions continue.

This weekend I planted a small shrub, and I had to dig about fourteen inches down to accommodate the root mass. I have to say that I was surprised that the soil, not particularly one that dries out often, was powdery to the bottom of the hole. If you are planting anything now, make sure to water the soil thoroughly as you fill in the area around the roots, then water again when done. This is especially needed for small trees and shrubs but do the same for perennials.

Next year, woody plants that were impacted by drought this year may be more susceptible to certain diseases like verticillium wilt, Nectria canker and evergreens to Rhizosphaera needlecast. Be vigilant and scout for any signs or symptoms of these diseases.

Lawns that did not receive any rainfall or supplemental watering during the past two months may be dormant and crunchy at this time. It may not be clear if the grass will recover when temperatures cool and adequate water is applied. Some grass species may be dead, but it may not be clear until next spring when they fail to green up. There still may be time to apply supplemental irrigation, and with warm temperatures, grass may or may not green up, but at least the crowns may be kept alive to generate new leaves next spring. If any lawn areas were seeded in late summer, water new grass as needed. If it is wilting, water it for sure.

Be alert to what is happening in your own backyard, for the sooner you discover any problems the better. Contact us at the University of Connecticut Home and Garden Education Center for advice on lawns, landscapes, and other gardening subjects. Here's hoping for some needed rainfall and cooler temperatures to help our plants recover from the trying drought of 2024.

Penn State Extension has a good article on long-term effects of drought stress- https://extension.psu.edu/the-long-term-impact-of-drought-on-trees-and-shrubs

If you have questions about caring for plants during a drought, or if you have other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Gorgeous Grasses

Posted on October 20, 2024October 21, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Autumn shines a spotlight on ornamental grasses. With their rustling blades and fluffy seedheads they are star performers in late season gardens going head-to-head with asters, mums, Montauk daisies and boltonias. Plus, they are great in fresh or dried cut flower arrangements.

The huge selection of grass species available is great for gardens but makes selecting difficult. Heights range from a few inches to more than 6 feet; colors from deep green to chartreuse, burgundy to black. Solid or variegated? Would a clump former, spreader, or self-seeder best fit your needs? Are seed heads important for fall and winter interest? Is this grass planted as an ornamental feature in your garden bed or landscape or are you looking for natives to support pollinators and perhaps serve as food for birds and others? Answers to these questions may guide you in grass selection.

Two favorite non-natives grown for their ornamental value are cultivars of Miscanthus and Pennisetum. While the miscanthus species has been listed as potentially invasive in CT, a number of attractive cultivars are available for purchase and can be striking if well positioned in the garden. Two outstanding selections are ‘Gracillimus’ and ‘Zebrinus’. The first has shimmering silver veined green leaves growing in graceful mounds. Reddish flower plumes emerge in fall changing to a light silvery hue. Plants are clump formers but can reach 6 feet or more in height.

‘Zebrinus’ is more commonly known as zebra grass for its definitive yellow and dark green striped foliage. This plant gets big over time. Mine is now 6 feet across and probably 10 feet high. I wrap a rope around it in the late summer to keep it upright through fall rains and winds. Stalks have been used quite effectively as a substitute for cornstalks around the lamppost.

My Pennisetum alopecuroides was grown from seed probably 20 years ago. These plants are absolutely gorgeous in the fall. Despite the many bottlebrush seed heads, I’ve never found a seedling. The fine, arching foliage resemble flowing water hence the common name, fountain grass. Cultivars of this graceful, flowing grass range from 18 inch ‘Piglet’ to 5 foot ‘Fox Trot’.

Native grasses are soaring in popularity and much easier to find at garden centers than they used to be. One switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) cultivar, ‘Heavy Metal’, is quite popular for its upright, striking blue-green foliage. If happy, it can reach 4 to 5 feet in height. The wheat-colored seed plumes are attractive to us during the gloomy winter months but also as a food source to a number of bird species.

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a favorite also of humans and wildlife, including both birds and butterflies. This upright native grass is pretty ubiquitous along roadsides and in fields and meadows. New growth begins a clean blue green but, by the end of the growing season shifts to deep bronze and chestnut hues. This is a tough plant content in sandy soils and reaching about 2 feet in height. The silvery seed tuffs are retained for most of the winter. Little bluestem combines well with a number of perennial wildlings like rudbeckia, pearly everlasting, goldenrod and species of asters.

Chasmanthum latifolium. Photo by dmp2024

Also commonly found along roadsides, purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) grows on sites from full sun to part shade. This is a very well-behaved grass in the Poa (bluegrass) family. It is native to eastern and central U.S. and produces those airy pink seedheads you might admire as you drive.

Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) has very distinctive, but attractive seedheads. Native to the eastern and southern parts of the U.S., it is hardy from zone 5 to 8. Northern sea oats is a clump former with showy panicles of flowers in late summer that mature into wide, drooping seedheads. This grass likes moist but well-drained soils and is a larval plant for several species of butterflies as well as serving as a food source for several mammal and bird species.

Other native grasses worth investigating include side oats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula), big bluestem (Andropogon geradii) and prairie dropseed (Sporabolus heterolepsis). Check out both native and exotic ornamental grass offerings for their varied textures, colors, forms and flowers.

For more information on growing ornamental grasses or selection or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

I Want My Mum: A Fall Classic Through the Ages

Posted on October 11, 2024October 8, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Abigayle Ward, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture Graduate Student

A group of fall flowers mixed with mums in a container. — Orange, purple, and white mums used as “filler” in a potted arrangement at Wickham Park in Manchester, CT. Photo by Abigayle Ward.

With the arrival of fall, one popular bloom brings the brilliant colors of forest foliage to our doorstep: With flower colors coming in purple, red, orange, yellow, and more, chrysanthemums, or more simply, mums, have been a favorite for centuries. First domesticated in China over 3,000 years ago, mum roots, seedlings, and flower pedals were used as herbal remedies in traditional Chinese medicine.

For nearly 2,000 years, mums have been the symbol of fall in Chinese culture: The Double Ninth Festival, celebrated on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, celebrates harvest, ancestors, and the beauty of autumn, with mums taking center stage as both decorations, accessories, and a floral wine.

First introduced to Europeans in the 1600s, mums quickly became a fall favorite. By the mid-1800s, the Victorians had written extensive literature on the interpretation and meaning of the color of each bloom. While some colors have carried the same meaning for thousands of years – such as white blooms symbolizing mourning – others took on entirely different meanings. While in China, a red mum represents fortune and luck, a Victorian would interpret this as a declaration of love.

Luckily, it seems many home gardeners in the United States nowadays are more concerned with the aesthetic appeal of their blooms than the meanings, so major misunderstandings are avoided. With several thousand cultivars available, mums come in many color combinations and growth habits. The National Chrysanthemum Society of the USA recognizes 13 different flower classes, ranging from 6-inch diameter flower balls with many layers of florets to smaller, 2-inch diameter flowers with only a single layer of a few petals. Some mums bloom early, in August, while others will bloom in October.

A row of potted mums for sale on a bench — Mums can be found for sale at garden centers starting in late summer. Photo by dmp2024

Further, some mums are annuals regardless of USDA hardiness zone, while others are perennials in zones 5-9. While so-called “florist mums” or “pot mums” are generally grown as annuals and will not survive winter frost, “garden mums” can survive winter frost if planted early enough in the growing season. If you wish to purchase a garden mum, but the mums are unmarked, a good way to tell the difference between florist and garden mums is to check for stolons near the base of the plant. Stolons, also known as “runners”, are shoots that grow out from the base of the mother plant. A daughter plant may have roots growing from the end of a stolon. If you want to purchase a perennial mum, check around the base of the stem for stolons – they will most likely be quite short but are a good sign that the plants may overwinter successfully. Alternatively, if you want to be sure you grow a permanent mum installation that comes back year-after-year, you can start some varieties of hardy garden mums from seed in late winter prior to planting out in spring. Get any mums you want to try overwintering in the ground as soon as possible. You can plant mums next year in spring or summertime to give them plenty of sunny weather to grow hearty root systems prior to the first winter frost of 2025. Mulch around your fall planted mums to help insulate their roots from frost.

Both annual and perennial mums benefit from at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. In Connecticut, a sunny spot to the south of your home would be ideal. Water mums thoroughly once the topsoil is dry but try not to wet the leaves or the flowers. Water left on the leaves or flowers can make mums prone to fungal diseases, which can make them unsightly or even kill them in severe cases. Towards the end of the season, especially between October and November, consider leaving the blooms on as long as possible to allow late-season pollinators to collect nectar.

Whether planted in a permanent flower garden or kept in a pot on the porch for fall, mums are an excellent addition of rich fall colors to any home gardener’s flower collection. Consider picking some up this season at your local garden center or plan on purchasing plants or seeds next year.

If you have a question on caring for your mums or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Coax Bulbs into Bloom for Late Winter Color

Posted on October 6, 2024October 7, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Tulip bulbs on display in the store — Photo by dmp2024

Autumn adorns us with vibrant leaves, whispering grasses, warm colorful mums, colorful cucurbits and sun-bleached cornstalks. Time spent cleaning up the gardens and yard now will be appreciated come spring. A favorite fall task is selecting and planting bulbs for spring color, accent and scent. When doing so, purchase a few extras to force into bloom.

The word, forcing, is rather harsh. I’d like to think of it more as coaxing or gentle persuasion. What we’re really doing is subjecting the potted bulbs to a shorter simulated winter so they will burst forth into bloom weeks earlier than if planted in our gardens.

Many species of bulbs can be forced. Hyacinths, tulips and daffodils are most popular. When visiting your local garden center to purchase bulbs, look for varieties that say ‘Good for Forcing’. Most hyacinths force well. Tulips and daffodils range greatly in size and bloom time. Usually the smaller, earlier, shorter varieties can be brought into early bloom most successfully.

Minor bulbs such as crocuses, snowdrops, scilla, Siberian squills, chionodoxa, netted iris and wood hyacinths are also great choices for forcing. As a general rule of thumb, these smaller bulbs need a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks of chilling versus the 12 to 14 weeks the larger bulbs may require.

Select pots with adequate drainage. Typically, 6-to-8-inch bulb pans or azalea pots are used. This type of pot is wider than deep. Look at the size of your bulbs first as one generally wants pots twice as deep as the height of the bulbs. Realistically any size pot could be used as long as it has adequate drainage.

Use a soilless, commercial potting media and moisten it with warm water so that it is damp but not saturated before potting up your bulbs. For a 6-inch bulb pan, plan on fitting in 3 hyacinths, 3 to 5 daffodils or 5 to 7 tulips, depending on the size of the bulb, or 10 to 12 minor bulbs. Yes they will be a bit crowded but it’s only temporary and they will give you a better show.

Fill the pot about halfway or so with the potting mix and set in the bulbs so that the minor bulbs will be slightly below the soil line but the larger bulbs have their noses sticking out of it. Give the pots a good watering but let them drain so no water is running out.

Then place them in a dark place with temperatures ranging from 33 to about 34 degrees F. Often a shed or unheated garage works well. Some folks may have a cold section of cellar, perhaps in the bulkhead. I find that placing them in an old aluminum trash can in the garden shed works well as mice can’t get in the can to nibble on them. Others have dug trenches in the garden in which the pots are placed and covered with leaves. Apartment dwellers could place the pots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator if room permits.

Pots should be checked every 2 to 3 weeks to see if watering is necessary and to check for root growth. Bulbs will be ready to move inside once white roots are evidenced through drainage holes and shoots begin to emerge from the bulbs. When these two growth signs are noticed, pots can be brought into bright, indirect light when the temperatures stay from 50 to 60 degrees F. It usually takes 3 to 4 weeks from when bulbs are brought inside until when they bloom.

Hyacinths forced indoors — Photo by dmp2024

At this time, they would appreciate a light fertilizer application. A typical houseplant fertilizer at rates listed on the package would suffice. Turn the pots regularly so the plants do not lean towards the light. Once you see the flower stalks form, the bulbs can be brought into warmer temperatures where their blossoms can be enjoyed. Keep in mind that the higher the temperature, the quicker blossoms will both open and fade. If possible, keep them cool or at least move the pots into cooler areas at night.

In some cases, the bulbs fail to bloom and this may be due to storing bulbs before or after purchasing at too high a temperature, not long enough chilling temperatures, lack of adequate moisture, or bringing the forced bulbs into high temperatures too quickly. Most of the time success is achieved and enjoying the sights and scents of spring flowering bulbs inside our homes in late winter is quite a reward for not a great deal of effort.

If you have questions about forcing bulbs or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

Apple Picking, Leave the Leaves, Jack-O-Lanterns & other October News

Posted on October 1, 2024October 1, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

Going Apple Picking? These tips Are Just for You!

We're well into apple season here in Connecticut! With a few weeks left there is still time to get local apples and spend a day out with the family. UConn Fruit Specialist, Evan Lentz, from the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture and UConn Extension, created a fantastic guide to help you find the perfect apple in the orchard!

Fun Facts:

Apples come in early, middle, and late season varieties and many orchards will plant a large selection to give you plenty of time to get out and enjoy the experience!
If you're considering growing apples at home, you will need at least two trees that are two different varieties and flower at the same time!
To keep plants shorter for easier access to pick fruit, many apple trees are grafted. The upper portion, known as the scion, will give you. your desired type of fruit. The lower portion or root stock helps to determine the ultimate size of the tree. If suckers are allowed to develop, the apples that they produce could be entirely different!

A guide to Apple Picking in Connecticut

Leave the Leaves: Let's Clear it Up!

Leaves in the perennial garden — Photo by H. Zidack

At this time of year, we see the same question in many forms:

Should I clean my garden now?
What is your opinion on "leave the leaves?"
Is it better to clean up your garden in the spring or fall?

In essence, many gardeners seek guidance on what the best move to make is for cleaning up their gardens. In reality, the "best" decision can be different for different gardeners. These are the considerations we want to bring to mind:

Reasons to Leave Plant Debris/Leaf Litter

Create a haven for insects and wildlife to overwinter in
Provide a layer of organic matter/natural mulch in your garden beds
You have more time for garden chores in the spring
Plants with sensitive crowns may be better if left alone over the winter and managed in the spring
Late blooming plants may still be in flower, or ornamental seed heads provide winter interest for your garden space

If You Do "Leave the Leaves"

Mulch or shred leaves that will be left on the lawn to break down. This causes them to release nutrients into the soil at a faster pace and gives plants below a chance to find sunlight in the spring
If unable to mulch your leaves, do not leave more than an inch or two of fully intact leaves. Thicker leaves will hold moisture and encourage disease or smother plant material below. They are also slower to break down and will need to be managed in the spring.
Monitor for pests like jumping worms in leaf piles
Monitor closely next growing season for signs of pest and disease and manage as soon as possible!

When you SHOULD clean up in the fall:

Your garden has experienced fungal disease or significant pest damage
- Sanitation is a least-toxic method of control when it comes to managing garden pest problems.
- Many fungal spores and vegetable targeting insects will overwinter in the leaf pile alongside beneficial insects. If you have had a particularly damaging year, it may be in your best interest to remove that leaf litter and plant debris from your property.
There are plants (perennials & ornamental grasses, in particular) along your foundation or in other areas of your property that could encourage undesired rodent damage?
- There's no doubt that rodents and small mammals need a home to overwinter in, but by removing possible shelters early in the fall, they will be encouraged to move elsewhere before the real cold sets in.
Trees or shrubs on your property have experienced girdling or rodent damage before.
- Building up leaves to insulate plants can be great! However, if past trials of this have resulted in damage to the stems or trunks, you may want to reconsider this method.

Keep Your Jack-O-Lanterns Fresh!

Collection of Jack O Lanterns — Photos by Pamm Cooper and H. Zidack

Everyone loves to carve a pumpkin! Jack-O-Lanterns (which were originally carved from turnips), are a festive tradition that many of us enjoy!

And whether you're a skilled artist or a spirited novice, keeping your jack-o-lantern fresh for the season is important! Learn about the traditions of the Jack-O-Lantern and how to keep yours well preserved at the links below!

Origins of the Jack-O-Lantern

Presesrve Your Jack-O-Lantern

Wildlife Highlight: Birds Are On the Move!

The Palm Warbler is a small warbler that forages primarily for insects. They will eat seeds and berries if available. These little birds migrate through our area in the spring and fall! Like a Phoebe, they are known for their characteristic tail wagging when they rest.

Late September is the beginning of migration to warmer climates of many species of birds that pass through Connecticut. Cornell University has many helpful fact sheets and other bird information tools that cover birds either breeding in or migrating through the North.

Learn More About Palm Warblers

Cornell Birdwatching

Birdcast - Migration Forecasts

Vegetable Gardening Resources

During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

9/13/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

Read Previous Pest Messages

New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

See the Calendar of Fairs in Connecticut - There's still a few fairs left this season!

It's Apple Season! Visit a pick-your-own orchard, or find your favorite apple flavored treats starting this month!

Interested in "leaf peeping?" Use this Foliage Finder guide to track fall color in the state!

Explore a Corn Maze!

Visit the CT Garlic & Harvest Festival Oct 12 & 13 in Bethlehem, CT

Roger Williams Zoo is hosting their Annual Jack-O-Lantern Spectacular Sept 27-Nov 2 in Providence, RI

There's still plenty of time to complete the Sky's the Limit Hiking Challenge!

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

Autumn Bird Walk - October 5th, Derby, CT

Peoples State Forest 100th Anniversary Celebration, October 6th, Barkhamsted, CT

Native Plant Seed Collecting Workshop, October 12, New London, CT

SALT Conference, November 2nd, New London, CT

CT NOFA Farm & Garden Conference, November 2nd, New Haven, CT

CT Invasive Plant Working Group
In-Person Symposium
October 29th, 2024
UConn Student Union
Storrs, CT

cipwg.uconn.edu

October Gardening Tips

October is still a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!

Keep collecting matured seeds. Dry them out and place them in labeled brown coin envelopes within an air tight container, and store in a cool place.

Mulch perennial beds using a loose organic material such as bark chips or leaves to keep down weeds, preserve moisture and give roots a longer time to grow before the soil freezes.

Sketch out where you planted various vegetables in your garden back in the spring. This will come in handy next spring so when you plant, you can rotate your crops and help prevent disease. Add notes of any issues you saw this season so you don't forget to scout for them next year!

Plant garlic from October 1st to November 15th. Place each clove pointed-side up at a depth of 2-4” about 6” apart.

Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.

Move the houseplants to their indoor locations when outdoor temperatures are consistently 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Acclamate them by moving them into an unheated mud room or garage for a couple of days before moving them into a heated house.

Renovate the lawn by thatching or aerating if needed. All seeding should be done before Oct. 4th for best results.

Watch for frost warnings and cover tender plants and pumpkins.

Limit herbaceous plant material located a few feet away from the house to eliminate hiding places for insects and mice, which could wind up indoors as temperatures plummet.

If rain is lacking, continue to thoroughly water trees, shrubs, planting beds, and lawn areas. It is especially important to keep newly planted evergreens watered

More October Gardening Tips

Is Early Leaf Drop an Indicator of Tree Health?

Posted on September 27, 2024September 25, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, Plant Diagnostic Lab

Trees showing their autumn colors — Trees showing their fall colors. Photo by Nick Goltz

The autumnal equinox, one of two times of the year at which day and night are equal in length, just passed on Sunday the 22^nd. While this point marks the astrological start of fall, many of the trees lining the roads on my drive to work (and in many of our clients’ yards) seem to want to get a head start on the season. Since late August, we’ve been getting calls from folks across Connecticut asking why the leaves on their trees are changing color and falling early. You may even be thinking, “Hey, a few of my trees are dropping their leaves early too. Is that something that can indicate how healthy they are?” In a word, maybe!

First, let me share the good news that, for most trees, premature color change and leaf drop doesn’t mean that they are in any immediate danger. Plants, much like humans and other animals, respond to stress differently depending on their environment and the kind of year they’ve been having. Just like we might see a little hair loss after a particularly stressful few months, trees may drop their leaves early as a response to stress. Identifying what is causing the stress however, is important when deciding if concern is warranted.

What type of stressors might be causing this early color change and leaf drop? For most trees, the answer is water. Connecticut and several other states in New England had a series of heavy rain events and flash flooding throughout the summer. While we’ve had hardly any rain in the land of steady habits for several weeks now, for many trees, the damage has already been done and symptoms are just appearing now. Saturated soils deprived plant roots of oxygen, damaging them and making them more susceptible to disease. Plants in especially low-lying areas, caught in floodwaters, or grown in poorly-draining clay soils likely experienced the most damage and earliest leaf drop. Some plants may have even perished outright from the damage. Besides water, excessive heat and the increased prevalence of fungal and bacterial diseases, as well as some insect pests, may have also contributed to the stress our plants are letting us know about now.

So, how can you know if the early color change or leaf drop is an issue for your favorite tree or just its way of complaining about a stressful summer? When and where the leaf change and drop is occurring can help you determine if the damage is likely a normal stress response or due to something more sinister.

Consider when the color change and leaf drop first began. In this instance, seeing some leaves begin to change in the last week of August is less concerning than seeing them change at the end of June. Plants that have their leaves change color and drop in midsummer or earlier are most likely dealing with a disease or pest issue, rather than a stress response. I recommend you get advice for these plants by contacting the UConn Home & Garden Education Center and remove them from your garden if they are unlikely to recover.

Also, consider what part(s) of the canopy was affected. Conifers such as white pine drop their leaves (we usually call them needles) in response to stress too, but you will typically see this take place on the interior of the plant – the older needles that aren’t capturing much sun anymore. Branches on deciduous trees, such as oak, that are in shady spots tend to drop their leaves early too, and this is normal.

Branches in full sun that lose their leaves very early, while others on the tree remain fine, are a bit suspicious. Mark these branches with tape or string and monitor them carefully as the plant produces its first leaves or flowers in the spring. If these marked branches do not produce leaves or flowers with the rest of the tree, get advice (again, by contacting the folks at the UConn HGEC)! The best option is usually to cut them close to the main trunk, then disinfect your pruning tools.

If you’re concerned about the health of your tree, including as a result of a potential disease or pest issue, practice good fall habits to give your trees the best foot forward next spring! Clean as much leaf litter as possible and remove it from the base of trees that dropped their leaves early. If you suspect the plant is diseased or has pests, throw away these leaves or burn them before composting. For example, many plant pathogenic fungi can survive the winter on fallen leaves and reinfect healthy plant tissue the following spring. It’s also a good idea to minimize added stress for your plants. Try not to expose them to herbicides, deicing salts, fertilizers, or other chemicals until they’re looking strong again.

If you aren’t sure how to proceed with your fall cleanup or if you’d simply like a second opinion on your favorite tree, get free horticultural consultation from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center by emailing ladybug@uconn.edu or by calling (877) 486-6271.

Time to Fertilize Your Lawn

Posted on September 20, 2024September 25, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

A person pushing a spreader — Photo by dmp2024

While September brings with it shorter days, we still have plenty of opportunities to attend to those fall yard and garden chores. Among them is applying fertilizer to lawns. Keep in mind that for the most part, our lawns consist of cool season grasses. In a more typical year, turfgrass growth slows down during dry, hot summer weather. Up until the past few weeks, this summer had seen enough rainfall to keep lawns green and growing.

Turf plants take up nutrients as they grow and these need to be occasionally replenished. September through mid-October is a perfect time to do so as the cooler temperatures stimulate shoot and root growth and hopefully, some gentle fall rains will help the nutrients infiltrate the soil and reach the roots.

So, what kind and how much fertilizer does one need? Of course, the best way to determine that is with a soil test (www.soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu) but without a soil test, follow the directions on the fertilizer package. Whether one chooses a natural/organic or a synthetic fertilizer is up to the individual. A 2024 National Lawn Fertilizer Study by Axiom, found that 95% of respondents said it was important to apply fertilizers that are safe for children, pets and the environment. Somewhat ironically, despite safety concerns, 67% have used fertilizers that contain weed killers or insecticides. In most cases, applications of any kind of pesticide, whether it be an herbicide, insecticide or fungicide are not necessary at this time of year.

Most folks who tend lawns or gardens are aware that fertilizer packages come with a guaranteed analysis. These are the 3 numbers on the package, for example 5-10-10. They are always in the same order and always stand for the percent by dry weight of total nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Unless you are purchasing a lawn starter fertilizer, which you would use for new seedings and soddings, you will notice that maintenance lawn fertilizers sold in Connecticut have 0 as a middle number, so for instance 18- 0- 4.

This is because of phosphorus legislation passed in 2013. Many people may not be aware that phosphorus is the number one inland freshwater pollutant in the state and when it enters streams, rivers, ponds or lakes, it encourages algae growth that eventually dies and decomposes depleting the oxygen in the water and leading to fish kills. Also, it may encourage the growth of toxic cyanobacteria as well as making the waters undesirable for recreational activities. In a nutshell, the law says that phosphorus should not be applied to an established lawn unless a soil test performed in the past 2 years provides a recommendation for phosphorus.

When applying a lawn fertilizer, either the soil test recommendations or the ones on the package call for approximately 1 pound of nitrogen to be applied for every 1000 square feet of lawn. Two things to check are the size of your lawn and also, the setting on your spreader.

Ideally one would like to apply the fertilizer when the grass is dry but before a light rain. If no rain is predicted, it would be beneficial if the lawn was watered lightly so that fertilizer prills are not sticking to the blades of grass but washed into the soil.

Lawn fertilizers generally are available as either fast or slow release. The nutrients in fast release fertilizers, especially nitrogen, are generally water soluble and readily available to your lawn grasses. Many lawn fertilizers also contain slow release or water insoluble forms of nitrogen. These are typically more expensive but supply nitrogen over longer periods of time. They are less likely to burn and more slowly fertilize plants.

Whichever one you pick; it should be put down by October 15^th. Weather is unpredictable after that, and plants may or may not be able to use the nutrients before colder temperatures prevail and grass growth slows.

This time of year is great for reseeding any bare spots, topdressing with compost if organic matter levels are low, using a mulching mower to incorporate leaves as they fall and for aerating if the soil is compacted. Send your lawn questions to ladybug@uconn.edu or call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center with your queries at (877) 486-6271.

High-tech Tomatoes

Posted on September 13, 2024September 11, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty
UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Assorted slicing and cherry tomatoes — An assortment of tomato varieties of both the slicing and cherry types. The colors include red, orange, pink, yellow, and now purple (photo by M. Lisy).

Tomatoes are one of the most popular food plants in the world, and as such, have undergone massive amounts of selective breeding. Native to western South America, the tomato can now be found all over the world. Originally grown for ornamental purposes due to fear of toxicity, modern gardeners grow many different colors including red, yellow, pink, orange, and white.

Tomatoes are prone to certain diseases which led to dependence on chemicals to control either the disease or the pest that transmits it. Disease resistant varieties of tomatoes were made by crossing certain parental tomatoes that had beneficial traits. For example, if a certain tomato tasted great but was prone to some type of wilt disease, it was crossed with a tomato that was resistant to wilt. Of course, this was VERY time consuming, and many times the final product is not perfect, but as close to ideal as possible. This does make people dependent on the seed producers, but at least you get the tomatoes you desire.

People were sad that they could never get the old heirloom varieties with superior taste to grow in the presence of modern-day diseases, so science came up with another solution – grafted tomatoes. Using young plants, the grower would take and graft the top of the desired tomato onto the roots of the undesirable but disease resistant rootstock. Certainly, these types of tomatoes have an important role in agriculture, but they are not feasible/economical in many situations.

One modern scientific solution is genetic engineering. This process takes a gene, or piece of DNA that codes for a specific trait, out of one species, and places it into another. The public generally does not like this type of technology partially due to a lack of understanding of the process, but also a fear of what could happen because of it. While science continues to make new GMOs, many companies will not use them due to consumer preference. In 1994, the “Flavr Savr” tomato became the first genetically engineered food to be granted a license for human consumption by the FDA. Although flavorful throughout its long shelf life, this tomato failed to meet commercial standards due to being easily damaged during harvest and shipping. Even though this tomato failed to become the success the company had hoped for, Calgene (now owned by Monsanto) made history.

Purple tomatoes with a blue pen cap to display size. — “The Purple Tomato,” the first GMO tomato available to home gardeners. Note the completely deep purple skin and flesh (photo by M. Lisy).

Thirty years later, the year 2024 saw another milestone in the world of GMO tomatoes. Norfolk Plant Sciences, and its seed-selling subsidiary, Norfolk Healthy Produce, produced the first tomato with completely purple skin and flesh. This is also the first time a GMO food crop has been approved for home gardeners. The color comes from the anthocyanin pigment, which is said to have heart-healthy and antioxidant benefits when consumed in the quantity found in this tomato. In addition, this pigment may increase the shelf life of the tomato. The gene for this pigment came from edible snapdragon flowers.

Many times, people fear GMOs saying that it is unnatural to have an extra “foreign” gene in an organism, and the potential risk of a “new combination of genes” created by this engineering process. The Food and Drug Administration deems this tomato as safe for human consumption as any other. In the end, each person should do their own research and make an informed decision for themselves and their family. For me, it is an exciting time to be alive as we are living through history. I felt really excited to grow the first-ever GMO tomato for home gardeners. One day, many of the tomatoes will be like this, but for right now, I will marvel at the original.

For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Tips from UConn Floriculture Help Spruce Up Container Plantings

Posted on September 6, 2024September 3, 2024 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Fall container plant selection at a greenhouse — Photo by dmp2024

As summer wanes and the cool breezes of autumn begin to roll into Connecticut, it’s the perfect time to refresh your container plantings. Shelley Durocher-Nesta, UConn Plant Science Floriculture Grower, says this summer’s rain and high temperatures have many of our container plantings looking a little ragged but fall presents a unique opportunity to infuse your outdoor spaces with rich colors, interesting textures, and seasonal charm that lasts well into the cooler months

By the end of summer, many annuals start to fade. To maintain a lush and lively look, she suggests replacing them with plants that thrive in cooler weather. A top candidate for fall plantings, both containerized and inground are mums, obviously. They offer an explosion of color in shades of yellow, bronze, pink and reds. Asters are runner’s up, flashing their cooler shades of purples and pinks.

Ornamental cabbages and kale are leafy plants bringing texture and interest to plantings, often with their lacy ruffled edges. Hues range from deep purple to violet and from white to green, some being two-toned.

Recently, pansies and violas have been showing up as fall bloomers. These delicate flowers add a pop of color and laugh off light frosts. Pansies, with their cheerful ‘faces’ are particularly popular and come in a wide range of colors. Ornamental peppers in shades of yellow, purple red and orange are also available often in 4-inch pots

Depending on your color scheme and container size, two other great fall accompaniments are heuchera (coral bells) with their stunning foliage in a myriad of colors, and sedums that can be used either for their unique fleshy foliage or pollinator-friendly blooms.

Don’t forget ornamental grasses for their attractive seedheads and whispering foliage. If pinched for room, a few stalks of dried grasses or wheat can give your containers a rustic, harvest-time feel.

Before purchasing new plants, access the plants presently in your containers. Groom, deadhead and cut back leggy annuals like petunias and verbena. If you have summer plants that are still thriving, you can repurpose them by combining them with fall plants in the same container for a mixed-season look. However, often one finds that their summer layout doesn’t work as well with new plants. Don’t hesitate to replace staid offerings. Durocher-Nesta, agrees saying that switching out her summer planters that are getting a little tired by the end of August is a joy.

Container full of fall annuals — Photo by dmp2024

Refresh the soil in containers before planting new fall selections. Summer plants have depleted the nutrients, so replacing the top few inches with fresh potting mix can get fall plants off to a better start. If your container is large and you can’t replace all the soil, mix in some compost or at least a slow-release fertilizer, as directed on the package, to rejuvenate it,

Consider elevating some containers on stands or steps to create varying heights. Grouping containers of different sizes together on your porch or patio can also add depth and visual interest.

One of the joys of fall container gardening is the chance to play with a different color palette. While summer is about bright, vibrant colors, fall offers a more subdued, warm earthy palette. Think deep purples, burnt oranges, and rich reds, balanced with greens and whites.

As the weather cools, plants will need less water but check regularly. Container plants can dry out quickly especially on sunny fall days. Stick a finger in and add water when the top inch of potting media feels dry.

Regularly deadhead spent flowers and remove any yellowing leaves to keep your containers looking tidy and to encourage continued blooming. As frost becomes more likely, be prepared to cover sensitive plants or bring containers indoors on particularly cold nights.

In addition to the plants, fall-themed accents can enhance the seasonal appeal of your containers. Consider adding small pumpkins, gourds, or decorative squash to the mix. For a touch of whimsy, add seasonal decorations like mini scarecrows, wooden sunflowers or decorative berries.

Sprucing up your container plantings for fall in Connecticut can bring a fresh, seasonal look to your outdoor spaces. With the right plant choices, thoughtful arrangement, and a few seasonal accents, your containers can remain a focal point of beauty and interest well into the cooler months. Durocher-Nesta shares thoughts about her favorite fall flower: “Bright and fresh mums bring a smile to my face during a time of year when falling leaves and shorter days mean winter is coming. They’re one last Hoorah! for the growing season.”

If you have questions on container plantings or on any other home or garden topic, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Phone:	(877) 486-6271
E-mail:	ladybug@uconn.edu
Address:	1380 Storrs Road, Unit 4115 Storrs, CT 06269-4115
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