Consumer Information

Plan Early For A Great Growing Season

Posted on January 10, 2026January 13, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Seed tray with soil-filled compartments and tiny green seedlings emerging. Clear plastic lid with condensation droplets, indicating a humid environment. — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

As you start to plan your next vegetable garden, you may reflect on the previous seasons to help you develop your seed selection, layout, and more. Gardening can already be a sustainable practice, but many want to be more intentional with reducing waste, improving efficiency, and promoting sustainability in their home. Your stages of garden planning should include considerations to ensure you are meeting these goals during the growing season.

The first way to improve your practices is to have an honest assessment of your strengths and weaknesses as a vegetable gardener. For example, through years of trial and error, I have finally admitted out loud that I am not skilled at keeping pepper seedlings warm enough to yield bountiful plants in the growing season. As a solution, I now buy my pepper plants from the garden center in the spring, while still using my setup to start other vegetables and flowers from seed. Using the garden center to help fill in gaps allows you to use that time, energy, and money for seed that has a track record of success. You might even have space to try something new!

Plan to save seed before your plants even start growing. Select seed varieties listed as “open pollinated” so that the offspring will come back true to seed in the following season. Plants that do not have this designation may not come back true to type and may lead to unfamiliar plants in the future!

Consider space as a commodity while you’re planning your garden. Think about the space that some plants require, and determine if that product is worth that space, time, and energy. If your row will yield half a dozen heads of cabbage from weeks of watering, weeding, and care, does that meet your gardening goal? Or do you have other goals in mind? Decisions like this early in the planning stages can help you make your garden more efficient, productive, and tailored to you.

Prevent waste by growing what you and your family will eat. Sometimes gardeners get caught up in the novelty. Purple cauliflower is exciting and worth the space if your family will eat the cauliflower. Avoid overplanting to keep your garden efficient and reduce waste. Does your family get sick of certain produce mid-season? That could be a clue that you're overplanting. When planning for the year ahead, ask yourself if your family has the capacity to eat or safely store whatever is harvested when it is ready. Plant yields are easily researched to help you determine how many plants you may need in your garden to meet your goals.

It can be difficult to consider cutting certain vegetables out of your garden for space or efficiency. However, this is where local agriculture can assist. Just like buying pepper starts from the garden center saves time and energy in the seedling space, buying local produce can help fill any gaps you may feel in your garden’s productivity. From a sustainability standpoint, buying local usually means less energy used in transportation, refrigeration and storage when compared to produce from outside our region.

Cost Share Agriculture (CSA) programs are an effective way to supplement your garden produce. These programs often work on a shareholder system, where purchasing a membership up front will guarantee a share of the farm’s harvest throughout the season usually on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. Connecticut has CSAs for produce, cut flowers, and even meat products. Many of them start signups well before the growing season begins, so keep an eye out! Visiting local farmers markets is another way to help supplement your garden produce, with less of a regular commitment. Some even provide forms of family entertainment, like music, during the summer.

As you plan your next garden, remember that sustainability starts with intentional choices and there is no “one size fits all” strategy. Carefully considering your strengths, weaknesses, and goals will help you promote a sustainable and efficient garden in the season to come.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Five Soil Myths That Cost Home Gardeners Money

Posted on January 4, 2026January 12, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Every spring, I see the same scene in garden centers. Carts piled high with lime, fertilizer, gypsum, compost-in-a-bag, and something in a shiny package that promises instant results. When I chat with home gardeners, I often ask: How did you decide you needed all of that? Most of the time, the answer is, “I don’t really know. It looked helpful.” As someone who works with soil tests every day, I see the other side of that story. I see the lawn with three times more phosphorus than it needs. The vegetable bed that gets lime every year, even though the pH is already high.

A lot of this comes down to a few myths that are passed down by neighbors, family, and well-meaning advice on the internet. But they quietly drain gardeners’ wallets and sometimes weaken the very plants people are trying to help. Here are five of the most common myths, and what to do instead.

Myth 1: If my plants look okay, I don’t need a soil test.

Plants will try their best in less-than-ideal conditions. By the time plants show clear distress, the problem is often advanced. pH has drifted far from the ideal range. One nutrient is so high that it is starting to interfere with others. In the lab, I see plenty of samples from landscapes that “seem fine,” where the numbers tell a very different story. I also see the opposite. People are convinced their soil is terrible, but the test says they are in good shape and only need minor tweaks.

This myth costs money because skipping the test means guessing. Guessing leads to buying products you do not need and missing the changes that would help the most. A better approach is to test your soil every few years, or sooner if you are starting something new. A good test provides clear recommendations matched to what you are growing.

Myth 2: More fertilizer equals better plants.

People worry they are not fertilizing enough, so “a little extra” feels like good insurance. Extra nutrients do not automatically translate to extra health. Instead, excess fertilizer can burn roots and foliage, push lush but weak growth that attracts pests and disease, and wash into streams and lakes where it fuels algae blooms, harming the environment.

This myth costs money as you are paying for nutrients your plants cannot use. You may also pay later for disease control or to repair damaged turf and stressed garden beds. A better approach is to view soil test recommendations as a ceiling, not a suggestion to exceed.

Myth 3: You should lime your soil every year.

Many people learned that you “always lime the lawn in the fall.” As many native New England soils are naturally acidic, lime can be important in the right amount and in the right places. But I also see plenty of tests where pH is already in the upper 6s or above 7, and the lawn is still getting lime out of habit.

When pH gets too high for the plants, iron and other micronutrients become less available. Acid-loving plants like blueberries and rhododendrons struggle. This myth costs money twice. First, you pay for lime, then you may pay to fix the problems caused by a high pH. A better approach is to test soil pH and apply only when it is recommended.

Myth 4: Adding sand will fix heavy clay soil.

Clay dries slowly in spring, sticks to tools when wet, and can feel like a brick when dry. A bag of sand looks like an easy fix, but mixing a little sand into a lot of clay does not make loam. It often makes something closer to concrete. What truly helps clay is organic matter. Compost and well-rotted manure can loosen heavy soils, improve drainage, and support healthier soil structure and biology.

This myth costs money because you buy sand, haul it around, and see little improvement. For most home gardens, adding organic matter works much better.

Myth 5: Bagged topsoil or garden soil is always an upgrade.

Big bags and bulk deliveries of “topsoil,” “garden soil,” or “planting mix” can feel like a shortcut to perfect beds. Sometimes they are excellent, but at other times they are basically subsoil with a nicer name, which can cause problems like high salt levels, unbalanced nutrients, or a pH far from the target.

This myth costs money because poor-quality material means paying twice. Once to bring it in, and again to correct it. A better approach is to ask suppliers what is in the mix and how it is produced. And whenever possible, improve the soil you already have.

The Common Thread

The common thread in all five myths above is that we reach for products before we understand the soil. If you start with a test, you can skip lime when your pH is already in range, cut back on fertilizer where nutrients are high, and put your time and money into the changes that will actually move the needle. That is better for your plants, your budget, and the rivers and lakes downstream. Your garden does not need every product on the shelf. It just needs the right help at the right time.

 The UConn Home & Garden Education office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Cranberries, A Symbol of Holiday Cheer

Posted on December 27, 2025January 12, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Workers harvesting cranberries in a flooded bog using a conveyor system. — Keith Weller, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org

Each holiday season, a wave of bright red cranberries appears on Instagram feeds, Pinterest boards, and tables across the nation in the form of sauces, desserts, drinks, and decorations. Beyond their seasonal fame however, these tart red berries play a major role in U.S. agriculture and culture.

Let’s start with some numbers. The USDA estimated the 2024 U.S. cranberry harvest at about 8.24 million barrels, roughly 824 million pounds of fruit. Here in the U.S., the cranberry king is Wisconsin, producing nearly 4.9 million barrels, around 60% of the national total. In second place is the historical cranberry producer, Massachusetts, with approximately 2.2 million barrels produced in 2024. The top agricultural crop in the state, Massachusetts’ cranberry crop alone is valued at $73.4 million, supporting over 6,400 jobs and generating $1.7 billion in annual economic activity. Cranberries are so important for Massachusetts, in fact, that they are the state fruit and cranberry red is the state color.

Cranberries, known scientifically as Vaccinium macrocarpon, are native to North America and are a close relative of blueberries. Compared with blueberries however, cranberry plants tend to be smaller, low to the ground and vine-like. The vines require acidic soil (pH 4.0–5.5), a reasonably cool growing season, and abundant fresh water. If these conditions can be emulated at home, cranberries can make an attractive edible ground cover. They perform well when planted alongside plants such as conifers and rhododendron, provided they are given plenty of water and appropriate fertilizer for acid-loving plants.

For commercial production, cranberries thrive in uniquely engineered wetland environments - bogs built atop beds of sand, peat, gravel, and clay. The annual commercial production cycle of cranberries begins with winter flooding, which forms protective ice that shields the vines and prepares the surface for sanding, which stimulates spring growth. As temperatures rise in spring, bogs are drained, and bees pollinate the blossoms. Summer is devoted to irrigation and monitoring, followed by harvest from mid-September through early November, before the cycle repeats with winter flooding and freezing.

Cranberry growers will typically harvest their crop one of two ways: through wet harvesting or dry harvesting. Wet harvesting describes the process where bogs are flooded to allow berries to float to the surface before being netted and loaded into equipment for cleaning and processing. This harvesting technique is the most popular, but requires proper equipment and careful planning. Dry harvesting, the process of using mechanical pickers that comb berries into conveyers, is an approach primarily used for fresh markets. More fruit are left on the vine with this approach, but the collected berries for fresh market can be sold at high prices and dry harvesting allows growers without the means to flood and drain their bogs on a schedule to grow cranberries.

Cranberries are deeply embedded in holiday traditions, thanks to their seasonal harvest, festive red color, and historical use. For more than 12,000 years, they’ve been utilized by Indigenous communities, especially the Wampanoag People, for food, medicine, dye, and winter preservation. The cranberries collected by hand in the bogs of southern Massachusetts were both eaten fresh and dried for shelf stability, then eaten as-is later in the winter or mixed with dried meats and fat to make pemmican, a hearty winter staple.

European settlers in New England quickly adopted the appreciation of cranberries, integrating them into winter celebrations. By the 18th and 19th centuries, cranberry sauces, relishes, and baked goods were staples of Christmas feasts. Their vibrant red hue also made them popular in holiday crafts such as cranberry-popcorn garlands or wreath embellishments.

U.S. cranberries reach peak consumption during the holidays. Though 95% of cranberries are processed into juice, sauce, or dried fruit, fresh cranberries remain a holiday staple, used in everything from stuffing and pies to cocktails and décor. Around 400 million pounds are eaten annually, with an estimated 20% consumed during Thanksgiving week, about 80 million pounds. With per-capita annual consumption averaging 2.3 pounds, mostly in juice or processed form, cranberries rank second among berries consumed in the U.S. after strawberries!

Cranberries exemplify a convergence of historical tradition and the advances of modern agricultural practices. They support regional economies, sustain traditional farming techniques, and bring seasonal joy to millions. As you gather with loved ones this holiday season, enjoy an extra serving of these tart crimson berries and remember that food isn’t just sustenance, it’s heritage, celebration, and connection.

Gifts for the Gardener on Your List

Posted on December 20, 2025December 23, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

A decorated Christmas tree with white lights and various ornaments, surrounded by wrapped presents on a red tree skirt. — Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

If you have a gardener in your life, last minute holiday shopping can be tough. Each year, we provide a list of suggestions that might help you as you’re shopping. For 2025, we are considering gardener comfort and adaptability.

Gardening Gloves

While it seems like a trivial gift and your gardener may already have a good pair, gardening gloves are a great gift! It’s always nice to have an extra pair in case your hands get wet working in muddy soil, or if you manage to lose them. Our gloves wear over time, and can thin, stretch, and decline in quality as seasons change. While any pair may be helpful as a backup pair, you might get bonus points for finding your gardener’s favorite brand or style. These are readily available in hardware stores or year-round garden centers.

UV Protective Clothing

With the improvement of UV protective textiles, gardeners can find them in all sorts of forms. UV shirts, gloves/sleeves, and even hats are available to help your gardener stay protected from the sun. This is great for anyone who loves being outdoors, but especially those who may have extra sensitivities to sunlight. While not a direct substitute for sunscreen, they can help provide a little extra protection. I find that these often are best found online, though I have seen individual items at independent garden centers, sporting stores, and gift shops throughout the state.

Cooling Towels

Athletic cooling towels are meant to help keep you cool. Soak them in cool water, wring out the excess and wear as a scarf or drape over your shoulders. The evaporative cooling from the towel helps you stay cool even during the warmest summer days. While they’re usually found with the sports gear, your gardener will love them, too!

Waterproof Shoes

Nobody likes wet feet, especially in the garden. Help the gardener you love stay dry by gifting them with a pair of waterproof shoes! These come in many forms such as rubber rain boots, rubber clogs, or even waterproof sneakers. They can be found at sporting goods stores, shoe stores, or online.

Shop Smart

There are many gifts beyond these recommendations that may suit the gardener in your life. As we approach the last-minute shopping season, keep these tips in mind to help you find the perfect gift.

Look carefully at the label of any seed mixes, seed bombs, or other plantable gifts, especially if you are intending to gift native seeds. Many of these mixes sold across the country may provide plants native to North America, but not necessarily native to our region. The label provides a percentage breakdown of every species of seed included. Cross reference to ensure that they are native to our region.

Purchase durable tools and equipment over novelty items. Give your gardener gifts that they will be able to use for years to come. While gloves with claws to help you dig are fun and unique, a good trowel will stay part of your gardener’s arsenal for many years.

Consider your gardener’s interests to help guide your gifting. If your loved one plants more flowers than vegetables, a garden hod might not be the right fit for them. If they hate weeding, a gift to make the chore easier might be a great fit! Think about the ways the person you’re gifting likes to spend time in their garden and tailor your gift to them.

Don’t rule out experiential gifts just because it’s winter. Gardeners who wish to continue to learn and spend time with like-minded green thumbs may enjoy a workshop, class, or conference. Many regional garden shows (including the CT Flower & Garden Show) take place during the winter. Local garden clubs, libraries, or garden centers may also offer educational workshops that you could purchase tickets for in advance.

Shop smart. While we can’t recommend any brands or specific places to shop, use your smart consumer skills when looking for these or any other gifts this season. Reading reviews, using trusted retailers, and balancing quality with price will help you verify that these gifts will impress.

If you’re shopping last minute for that gardener in your life, remember that it doesn’t have to be stressful! Keep comfort, adaptability, and their unique interests in mind for a gift that’s sure to please!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Why Bees and Wasps Really Crash Your Late Summer Picnic!

Posted on September 6, 2025September 9, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Did you notice a few unwelcome guests trying to steal a sip from your soda can at your Labor Day picnics last weekend? In late August/Early September, bees and wasps are highly visible, more persistent, and at their peak populations in social hives. We get a lot of calls this time of year asking what can be done to remove them from shared spaces.

A yellowjacket flying low to the ground — A Yellowjacket. Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Thousands of described species are spread across 7 taxonomic families, worldwide. Eusocial species, like honeybees and paper wasps, have complex social structures that contribute to the overall survival of the hive. Meanwhile, a large majority of species are solitary and may live close to similar species but don't work together when it comes to provisioning resources or defending a territory. Diets range from carnivorous to herbivorous. However, most of them have developed a relationship with flowering plants in some capacity. Some are specialists, needing specific flowers for various resources, while others are generalists. Flowers have co-evolved with these insects so that they may benefit from the relationship via pollen distribution. Only those that help to move pollen are considered pollinators, though many may feed on floral resources. Entomologists dedicate their entire careers to understanding these insects and their complex relationships with the larger world.

So why do they bother us around Labor Day but not so much during other summer picnics? A lot of it has to do with life cycles. By August, a hive has had a significant amount of time to establish. In spring, a queen will start a nest the size of a quarter. They aren’t on our mind so we’re not on the lookout. By now, some of those social nests can be the size of a basketball, or larger, with thousands of insects working for the good of the hive. At the same time, we're in the season when bees and wasps are on the lookout for sweet, sugary energy sources as their natural floral resources start to become scarce with the change of the seasons. Some become more protective of territory, trying to protect local resources and inadvertently mistake your sodas, fruit, and sweet picnic goodies as their next opportunity. Keeping drinks and food covered at picnics at this time of year is highly recommended to avoid attracting bees and wasps. If you grow fruit trees or berries, clean up any dropped fruit that could also attract these sugar fiends.

In general terms, the easiest management strategy is to avoid the area, if possible. Hives built in low traffic areas can plausibly be left for the season, since workers will die out with colder weather. The only one to overwinter is the queen, and she will usually overwinter in leaf litter or plant material at ground level. In addition, wasps are not going to re-use their hives. The new queen will start fresh with her own nest, and her own colony come springtime. Next spring would be the time to scout for any unwanted guests and physically remove the beginnings of a nest early. This not only helps keep them out of your space but gives the queen time to reestablish a nest somewhere else that is safer for both parties and allows them to coexist with us more favorably.

We always encourage having a bee or wasp identified before managing a nest, for a multitude of reasons. Your local beekeeper may be skilled and willing to help you remove a hive or swarm of honeybees from your property, but they won’t want to go near wasps any more than you might. Some species, like carpenter bees, may cause property damage and management may include removal of the bees as well as some minor carpentry repairs. Others, like the Cicada Killer, may appear big and scary, but want nothing to do with humans and can be left alone to complete their season.

If you or a family member has an allergy, damage is being done to property, or the nest is in a high traffic area, removal of the nest may be appropriate. Chemical management products, like bee and wasp sprays, are highly effective when used according to the label. These products will kill the insects. Not all products may fit all situations, so check labels carefully. As an example, sprays for ground bees and wasps should be labeled for ground use. Remember to read the label in its entirety before use and follow all instructions as written. Consider hiring a pest removal professional who can take the proper safety precautions. These professionals also know strategies that may help reduce the impact on nearby pollinators, treating only the problem at hand.

If you have questions about bees or wasps or need help identifying them to navigate which action to take, the UConn Home & Garden Education Center is here to help!

A Gardener’s Guide to Planting by Hardiness Zones

Posted on May 3, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Map of Connecticut USDA Hardiness zones as of 2023. Most zones in the state are either zone 6 or zone 7. — USDA Hardiness Zone Map for Connecticut, 2023

If you are wondering whether that shrub, flower, or tree that you saw in a magazine or catalog will grow well in your garden, using a hardiness zone map is your best bet to ensure success.

A hardiness zone map is a tool that divides a geographical area into distinct zones based on average annual minimum winter temperatures. These maps are used by gardeners and farmers around the world to determine which plants are most likely to thrive in a particular region. Each country has its own hardiness map that correlates to their climate. In the United States, the USDA publishes a hardiness zone map, which covers all fifty states and includes Puerto Rico, Guam, American Samoa, and the U.S. Virgin Islands. It uses climate data collected over many years from weather stations throughout a specific region. Then the data is analyzed to determine average minimum winter temperatures from different areas.

The concept of hardiness zones was first introduced in 1927 by Dr. Alfred Rehder. Rehder worked at Harvard's Arnold Arboretum as a botanical taxonomist. He wanted to address the challenges gardeners and growers faced in selecting plants suited to their local climate. Prior to Rehder’s map, there was no standardized system for categorizing plants based on their ability to survive winter temperatures. His hand-drawn map featured eight hardiness zones and was based on the lowest winter temperatures recorded in various regions across the country. Rehder aimed to provide a practical tool for gardeners and growers. His map made it easier for them to choose plants with the best chances of survival in their region, ultimately contributing to more successful gardens and agricultural endeavors. Rehder’s innovative approach recognized the importance of adapting agricultural practices to local climates. In the 1960s, the USDA adopted and adapted Rehder's concept, creating the first official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.

Since its initial release, the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map has been updated several times to reflect changes in climate and the availability of more accurate data. The latest update of the USDA hardiness map was released in November 2023, jointly developed by the USDA's Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Oregon State University's PRISM Climate Group. This update incorporates data from 1991 to 2020, covering a broader range of weather stations than previous versions. One of the key findings from this update is that the contiguous United States has become approximately 2.5 degrees Fahrenheit warmer on average compared to the previous map. As a result, around half of the country has shifted into the next warmer half zone, while the other half has remained unchanged. The updated map still consists of 13 zones, but now offers more detailed information on temperature ranges within each zone, including 10-degree zones and 5-degree half zones. Connecticut has two hardiness zones each of which is divided into half zones; (6a,6b); (7a,7b), to better reflect the temperatures in the state over the past few decades.

The importance of hardiness zones lies in their ability to help gardeners and farmers choose plants that will thrive in their specific region. By selecting plants appropriate for their zone, growers can reduce the risk of frost damage and increase their chances of a successful growing season. However, due to unexpected temperatures outside the average range, there is no guarantee that a plant won’t suffer but it does reduce the risk of plant damage. In addition to gardeners, researchers use hardiness zones to study the spread of insects and exotic weeds, while the USDA Risk Management Agency uses the map to help determine crop insurance rates for commercial growers.

While the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is an invaluable tool, it is important to note that it is not the only factor gardeners and farmers should consider when selecting plants. Other factors, such as soil type, precipitation, and local microclimates, can also impact plant growth and survival. Gardeners should use the map as a starting point and supplement it with local knowledge and research to make the best plant selections for their specific needs.

The development of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is a testament to the importance of adapting agricultural practices to local climates. Since its inception nearly a century ago, the map has evolved to reflect changes in climate and incorporate more accurate data. Today, the map remains an essential resource for gardeners and researchers alike, helping them to better understand and navigate the complexities of plant growth in the diverse regions of the United States. Knowing a plant’s hardiness zone when selecting that shrub, tree or flower will help you grow the garden of your dreams.

Celebrate Arbor Day!

Posted on April 26, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Redbud tree in flower with tiny pink buds. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Arbor Day is celebrated in Connecticut on April 25th. Since it is a day traditionally set aside for the planting of trees, perhaps you might consider adding one to your home landscape. If you haven’t the need for another arboreal specimen, then plan on giving your existing trees a little TLC.

Trees have a lot to offer. They provide us with cool shade on hot summer days, brighten our spring season with lovely blossoms, add color to the fall landscape and winter interest throughout cold, dreary days. Trees provide food, nesting sites and shelter for many animals, especially birds. They help reduce noise pollution, trap particulate air pollutants, and can alter the microclimate surrounding them.

Most importantly, trees supply plenty of oxygen for us to breathe. Each year, an acre of trees produces enough oxygen to keep 18 people alive. They also sequester carbon dioxide. Trees convert atmospheric carbon dioxide into plant matter as they photosynthesize. This has important consequences worldwide. As more and more of our forested land is being cleared, less carbon dioxide can be stored in trees and more is available to increase the atmospheric carbon dioxide levels which, in turn, can contribute to global warming.

While we can’t stop global deforestation, we can make a difference in our own backyards by planting more trees or making sure that the trees already present receive the conditions they need to thrive.

When selecting a tree for your landscape, do consider factors like its ultimate height and spread, susceptibility to insect and disease problems, flowering, fruiting and fall foliage potential, rate of growth and site requirements. Review gardening books, consult with nurserymen and maybe visit an arboretum to view mature specimens.

Trees are purchased either as dormant stock through mail order sources, containerized, or balled-and-burlapped (B & B). Dormant trees generally arrive in the spring or fall and should be soaked for a couple of hours and planted immediately. If you can’t get them in the ground right away, they can be stored in a cool place for a few days out of direct sunlight. Make sure them are kept moist.

Containerized stock can be planted throughout the growing season although cooler spring or fall is best. Hard to transplant species are best purchased this way as there is less disruption to their root system. If potbound, make several vertical cuts about one-quarter inch deep around the root ball before planting.

Purchasing B & B trees is fine for younger specimens, but often larger trees have a good portion of their roots removed in this process. This can lead to poor survival. For greatest success, choose small to medium sized trees.

A tree planted at the proper depth with the crown slightly exposed. The hole is dug twice the width as the original root ball. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Holes for planting only need be as deep as the root system. The key is to make them at least 2 feet wider than the root ball. Especially in heavy or compacted soils, be sure to

loosen as much soil around the planting area as possible so roots can grow freely. The majority of roots are found in the upper 3 feet of soil.

Amendments such as peat moss or fertilizer are not necessary to add to the backfill. However, if the soil pH or phosphorus levels are low, ground limestone and bonemeal can be mixed into the backfill.

Add water to the hole before planting and let it drain. Next, position the root ball. Remove plastic mesh and cords. Burlap can be cut away as much as possible. Fill in the hole about half way. Gently firm the soil around the root ball. Don’t stomp on it or you will compact the soil. Water thoroughly and when the water drains, finish filling the hole. Make a well around the tree with soil and water once more. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch keeping it away from the trunk. Newly planted trees need a thorough soaking each week throughout the first growing season either from natural precipitation or from you.

If you have questions about trees or any other gardening topic, call the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center (toll-free) at (877) 486-6271 or email us at ladybug@uconn.edu or visit our website, www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu.

Garden centers prepare for nice weather as spring fever spreads

Posted on March 19, 2025March 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Have You Tested Your Well Lately?

Posted on March 15, 2025March 18, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Alec Janis M.S. – Connecticut Institute of Water Resources

Cross-section of how water moves underground. Photo created by Alec Janis, M.S.

In 1718, in what is now Franklin, Connecticut, a well was dug as an all-purpose public source of water for the community. In about 1755, the people began to complain about the water’s quality, saying it stained clothes and remained tainted until 1794, when an earthquake shook the town. After the earthquake, it was found that the well had been restored to its original quality. Although this is a more extreme example, the quality of your well water can change at any time, which means that just because it was safe to drink when it was installed, that may not be the case today.

The Connecticut Department of Public Health recommends that all residents test their wells every two to five years. If you’re struggling to remember the last time you tested your well, you’re not alone. We estimate that 96% of Connecticut well owners do not follow these guidelines.

So how does your well work? When it rains, some water is absorbed by the plants in the landscape, but they can’t uptake all that water. After water travels past the plant roots, it continues until it reaches an area where all the spaces in the soil have been saturated. This is known as the water table. Think of the soil like a sponge; as you add water, the water fills all the holes and space inside until it’s completely soaked through. If you have a shallow well, your water is being pulled directly from this water table.

If you have a drilled well, your water comes from much further underground. Below the saturated layer of soil, there’s solid stone called bedrock. Throughout the bedrock, there are small cracks, called fractures, where water moves. You can see an example of this when passing a rocky cliff face along the highway that seems to be randomly covered in ice. The ice you see has formed from water that has made its way through soil on top of the ledge, into the fractures in the stone and eventually drips out of small cracks where it freezes in the cold air. A drilled well is a bored hole in the bedrock, intersecting many fractures. Instead of following the original path, water now pours out of the fractures and pools in the newly formed hole.

Now that we know how water travels, let’s consider everything the water is interacting with on its way down. Consider the animal waste on your lawn from a pet or a passing deer, the fertilizers or pesticides you may use on your lawn, or even the de-icing salts you put on walkways during the winter. Precipitation, in the form of rain or snow, pulls everything underground. However, not all of this will end up directly in your well water. The dirt acts as a filter stopping some contaminants while letting others through. Depending on the chemical make-up, certain compounds will remain in the soil while others will break down and continue to travel through.

When this water reaches the bedrock, it will continue to pick up and lose different chemicals. This process will slowly erode these cracks, causing the paths to change over time. As the stone erodes, metals and minerals will be picked up with the traveling water and occasionally end up in your drilled well.

This is why it is important to routinely test your well water quality every few years. As water erodes fractures in the bedrock, new cracks and pathways form, changing the contaminants that are entering your well. We currently don’t have a simple method to track how groundwater is moving, so testing is the best way to understand what’s happening in your well.

To get your well tested visit a local or lab participate in the UConn Extension well testing program. We are hosting a collection event at the UConn Extension - Middlesex County Extension Center (1066 Saybrook Rd, Haddam, CT 06438) on May 3^rd from 10:00am – 1:00pm. These tests test for coliform bacteria, lead, arsenic, uranium, nitrates, sodium, chloride, fluoride, pH, hardness, sulfate, turbidity, iron, and manganese. These tests, normally valued at $350, are being offered for a reduced cost of $200.

We will mail a sample kit to participants who have signed up in advance of the collection event. Sample kits will also be available at the collection event on May 3^rd as well as at the Old Saybrook Environmental Fair (Old Saybrook Middle School, 60 Sheffield St, Old Saybrook, CT 06475) on April 26^th.

Participants can sign up online at https://s.uconn.edu/haddam-well-testing. The deadline to be mailed a sample kit is April 25th.

If participants cannot make the day above, we offer a walk in service year-round where participants can bring their water sample to the UConn main campus Monday through Thursday from 8 am – 5 pm. For more information on how to sign up, visit https://ctiwr.uconn.edu/walk-in/.

We support UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For home gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. For more information about the CT Institute of Water Resources and Well testing services, visit https://ctiwr.uconn.edu/

The Challenges of Boxwood: Pests, Diseases, and Alternatives

Posted on February 22, 2025February 27, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Boxwood, a classic choice for formal gardens and hedges, has faced increasing threats in recent years. As gardeners grapple with these challenges, it is crucial to understand the issues at hand and explore alternative plants for our landscapes.

Boxwood Blight is an aggressive fungal disease that affects various Boxwood species and causes rapid defoliation and potential plant death. First identified in the United Kingdom in the mid-1990s, this disease has since spread across North America. Early symptoms include stem cankers, sunken lesions, and eventual dieback. To mitigate the risk of Boxwood Blight, choose resistant cultivars, practice good garden hygiene, and monitor your plants for early signs of infection.

The Box Tree Moth is an invasive pest native to Asia that feeds on Boxwood plants. Since its arrival in North America, this moth has wreaked havoc on Boxwood populations, leading to defoliation and plant stress. Symptoms of infestation include see-through plants, "stick shrubs," and stem cankers. Regular monitoring and integrated pest management strategies are essential for controlling this destructive insect.

As Boxwood plants continue to face challenges from pests and diseases, it is wise to consider alternative options for our gardens. Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) is a versatile, broadleaf evergreen that can be shaped into hedges or topiaries. Its small, glossy leaves provide a neat appearance, and its adaptability to various soil types and sun exposure makes it a low-maintenance choice.

Row of Gem Box Ilex shrubs for sale — Gem Box Ilex is one of many fantastic substitutes for Boxwood shrubs. Photo by H. Zidack

Euonymus japonicus (Japanese Euonymus), an evergreen shrub with small, glossy leaves and tolerance for a range of growing conditions is another possible substitution. Its compact growth habit and easy maintenance make it an excellent choice for hedges or screens.

Ilex glabra (Inkberry), is a slow-growing evergreen native to North America, featuring dark green leaves and red berries in the fall. Its low, spreading habit makes it ideal for low hedges or mass plantings.

Privets (Ligustrum), are fast-growing, low-maintenance evergreen shrubs with small, glossy leaves. They can be used for hedges, screens, or as stand-alone specimens. However, keep in mind that three cultivars, border privet, (Ligustrum obtusifolium Sieb. & Zucc), California privet, (Ligustrum ovalifolium Hassk.) and European privet (Ligustrum vulgare L.) are listed on UConn’s invasive plant database. If you decide to plant privets, look for seedless cultivars such as Golden Ticket privet (Ligustrum x vicaryi "KCLX1") at your local nursery.

The Boxwood Blight and Box Tree Moth present ongoing challenges for gardeners and landscapers. By understanding these threats and adopting appropriate management strategies, we can mitigate the damage they cause. Additionally, exploring alternative plants can help create more resilient and sustainable gardens in the face of these challenges. With careful planning and thoughtful plant selection, our landscapes can continue to thrive in the face of adversity.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For questions about your boxwoods or other gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

Home and Garden Education Center