Your Raised Beds Worked Hard All Season—Garden Pros Share 6 Ways to Help Them Recover Before Winter
The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other gardening professionals recommend their top tips to help your garden beds prepare for winter.
Consumer Information
Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall
Gardening Season Isn’t Over Yet: 6 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Grow Through the Start of Fall
The Spruce – Heather Zidack joins other gardening professionals to recommend fall blooming annuals for extending your season of color.
August: The Month That Shapes Next Year’s Garden
It’s been a strange year. While many gardeners typically start to feel as if their season is starting to wind down in August, some gardens this year seem to finally be hitting their stride. Regardless, with fall just ahead of us, this month provides a fantastic opportunity to reflect, and plan for your next growing season all while the weather is still on your side!
While your garden is still in flower and plants are still well established, it is a great time of year to document this growing season for yourself. Gardeners have used systems of colored golf tees, rocks, or other means to mark out where perennials are in the garden so that they do not disturb them during spring planting or cleanup. Others will sketch out their gardens on graph paper. For perennials, this is a great way to remember what species are planted, and when they flower so that you can shop for additions. This method is particularly useful for vegetable garden beds, which many try to rotate each season. By sketching out what is currently planted, you will be able to identify new locations for next season’s rotation.
It’s always easier to reflect on something while it’s in front of you. Keep a journal and note what went well this season and what didn’t while it is fresh in mind. Include pests and diseases so you are aware of what to scout for next season, before it’s an issue. Even though next year’s conditions may be different, this documentation will help you have an idea of timing, locations, or practices that can be improved on in the next growing season.
While it may not quite be time to start shopping for seeds or starts for next season, note the varieties of vegetables that did well in your garden, and ones that you might skip for next year. Taking note of diseases or pests will also help you with your winter seed shopping by helping you identify if resistant varieties are out there to help you combat those issues. Creating this list now will help you when it comes time for those January seed orders!
If you still want to play in the dirt, this is a good time of year to divide your spring and summer blooming perennials. Division not only provides an opportunity for your plants to have a little extra growing room in the garden bed, but some see it as a way of getting free plants from your garden! Enhance other garden spaces with additional plant material where it may fit. If your plants are healthy and free of pests and disease, you can even share divisions with family, friends or neighbors.
Late summer and fall blooming perennials are best divided in the spring so that they are not expending energy on both flowering and establishment at the same time. Always make sure to follow proper watering guidelines to help any transplanted divisions establish in their new spot in the garden. Even though the plants have been in your garden for a long time, once they are moved the clock resets on their “establishment period.” They’ve taken a hit to their root system and may need your support to recover. Ensure plants are receiving one inch of water per week (roughly 0.62 gallons per sq foot), to help them establish a healthy root system. Always feel the soil to determine whether supplemental water is necessary.
Spring bulbs and Peony roots will be planted in the coming months, so prepare by shopping early! Unique varieties will sell out quickly and you will want to make sure you get what you need for planting time.
We’re also approaching a fine time of year to have your soil nutrition tested so that you’re ready to go next spring! Typically, the springtime sees a rush for soil testing and there can be delays, which mean more time waiting before implementing your fertilizer programs. By testing in the fall, you have your recommendations ready to go when the soil warms up next spring!
Don’t underestimate the value of a detailed gardening journal and a few garden markers to help you remember where things are in your garden, how well they did, and what you may need to watch out for next year! Many successful gardeners have a collection of journals or notes that help them build upon what they learn from season to season. August is the perfect time of year to start documenting those observations while they’re fresh in your mind, and there’s still plenty of gardening left in the year!
Invasive or Aggressive? Why the Difference Matters in Your Garden
You’re in the garden, staring at that same patch of weeds spreading year after year into your flower beds. You grumble how invasive they are. Or are they aggressive? Conversationally, both invasive and aggressive paint the same picture but if you read the fine print, they mean different things.
In everyday conversation, the two words can sound interchangeable. In horticulture and ecology, however, they mean different things. That distinction can shape how we manage plants, communicate with other gardeners and landscape professionals, and understand the regulations that apply to certain species. Gardening lingo can be nuanced and details matter.
Let’s begin with the broadest term: weed. A weed is simply a plant growing where it is not wanted. A weed may be otherwise desirable when it’s growing where we want it. Ralph Waldo Emerson famously said a weed is “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.” A weed is more a description of where a plant is growing; it does not give away information about the plant’s provenance or growth habit.
Aggressive describes the growth behavior of a plant. Weeds and plants we grow in our gardens can be aggressive. Native and nonnative plants can be aggressive too. Aggressive plants can outcompete other plants for resources and outgrow the space allotted to them. Not all aggressive plants are invasive, but in some cases an aggressive, non-native plant can be categorized as invasive.
Invasive plants are nonnative and have demonstrated the ability to spread aggressively, establish outside of cultivation into natural areas, and outcompete native plants. People have introduced plants beyond their native ranges for centuries both intentionally and unintentionally. Most introduced, nonnative plants do not become invasive, but those that do can cause significant, costly problems for landowners, communities, and land managers. Invasive plants often have legal or regulatory implications.
The way invasive plants are regulated varies state to state. In Connecticut, a plant is considered invasive if it meets a set of ecological criteria outlined in Connecticut General Statutes 22a-381a. Connecticut’s Invasive Plants Council uses these criteria to recommend which plants belong on the state’s invasive plant list. The list is periodically updated by the State legislature as additional plants meeting the invasive plant criteria are identified. There are more than 100 plants on Connecticut’s invasive plant list.
What does it mean for a plant to be native or nonnative? Native plants are species that have occurred in a region without the benefit of human introduction. Depending on the context, native can mean native to the United States, to New England, to Connecticut, or to a smaller locale. There are different opinions about what makes a plant native and at what geographic scale. The most important consideration is that native plants coevolved alongside other species in their native range and are part of the greater ecological community. Native plants can be considered aggressive, but they are not considered invasive.
In summary, what defines a weed is a matter of opinion. Aggressive plants have robust growth, can be native or nonnative, and are sometimes further classified as invasive. All invasive plants are nonnative and are usually aggressive.
Do Home Gardens Need Mycorrhizal Inoculants?
How to Keep Container Plants From Drying Out So Fast and Cut Back on Daily Watering, According to Pros
The Spruce – Heather Zidack discusses why container mixes dry out so fast and how to maintain healthy container gardens.
Chaos Gardening
Chaos gardening is a growing social media trend that encourages gardeners to relinquish control, scatter assorted seeds, step back, and see what happens. Instead of carefully spacing plants and planning layouts, chaos gardeners toss seeds and let nature decide what grows where. The results can vary widely, ranging from a surprising assortment of plants to a patch of disappointment.
Unlike traditional gardening, this approach emphasizes spontaneity over structure. For many, the appeal lies in its simplicity. Chaos gardening is easy to start, requires minimal knowledge, and often relies on leftover or inexpensive seed packets. The low-stakes, experimental nature makes it especially attractive to busy people or those new to gardening.
Still, the trend raises valid questions. Without site preparation or ongoing care, how well can seeds establish? And does “letting go” invite weeds into the garden under the guise of wildscaping?
In practice, chaos gardening often produces mixed results. While the concept is appealingly simple, success rates can be low, and plantings may struggle to persist long term. Still, gardeners interested in the trend can improve their chances of success by following a few simple suggestions.
Avoid using this approach in large or prominent spaces. Start small, either in a container or a less visible area of the yard. To maintain a sense of experimentation, while increasing success, consider focusing on a single species at a time or scattering spring bulbs through an existing lawn. Tossing out a packet of “wildflower” seeds may sound charming, but it will not produce an instant, picture-perfect meadow. More often, it results in a steadfast patch of mugwort.
Even with a relaxed approach, a bit of planning goes a long way. Key factors such as sunlight and soil conditions still matter. The principle of “right plant, right place” applies regardless of gardening style. Identifying site conditions, selecting appropriate species, and preparing the planting bed can significantly improve outcomes.
Gardeners should also approach seed mixes labeled “wildflower,” “pollinator-friendly,” or “native” with some caution. While not inherently problematic, these mixes can contain species that are poorly suited to local conditions. A quick review of the species on the list can help inform decisions about whether the plants are suited to the region or growing conditions.
Learning how to recognize seedlings, including common weeds and invasive plants, is another important step. Early identification allows gardeners to remove undesirable species before they establish. Observing which plants succeed can also guide future efforts, gradually transforming a disorderly patch into a more reliable and productive space.
Patience is essential. Many perennials grown from seed take more than one season to flower. Including a mix of annuals and perennials can help maintain visual interest while longer-lived plants establish. As with any gardening method, some trial and error is expected.
Chaos gardening may never replace traditional approaches, but it offers an accessible entry point for beginners and a creative outlet for experienced growers. With a balance of spontaneity and informed decision-making, even an unstructured planting can become a living experiment.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
What to Know Before You Buy Topsoil
Starting Raised Beds
There are many styles of raised beds to choose from, depending on your needs. Raised beds exist on a spectrum, ranging from framed boxes above ground to unframed, elevated planting mounds. When planning new raised beds, both types have specific considerations to keep in mind.
Mounded Raised Beds
Mounded raised beds are created by mounding existing soil or adding additional material so the planting area sits above ground level. This method works well on compacted sites, in poorly drained areas, or on top of heavy clay soils.
Most mounded raised beds do not have a barrier between the ground and the mound. However, if you are wish to start a raised bed over lawn, cardboard can be placed underneath the mounded soil to smother the grass. If you use cardboard, it is best to allow it to decompose for a few months before planting. This will allow plant roots to grow freely into the soil below rather than being blocked by the cardboard layer.
The bed can be built using soil already on site, by mounding soil from the paths or edges into the bed. Alternatively, you can bring in topsoil and compost to create the beds. Any imported soil or compost should be free of pathogens, contaminants, and invasive weeds. Mounded raised beds are not tilled, and walking on the mound will compact the soil, so foot traffic should be avoided. These beds may need to be reshaped or re-mounded annually. Soil tests can be taken every two to three years, then apply amendments added as needed.
Framed Raised Beds
Framed raised beds offer many of the same benefits as mounded beds, along with additional structure and accessibility. A framed raised bed is more contained than an in-ground bed and can be made of wood, metal, or pavers. These beds are well suited for compacted or poorly drained sites, locations with contaminated soil, or in gardens designed to improve accessibility for people with limited mobility.
Raised bed depth can vary depending on the intended use. Some beds are only a few inches deep, while others may be up to 2 feet. Gardeners who use wheelchairs or who have difficulty bending may want to consider an elevated or deeper bed. Most annual vegetables require 12 to 18 inches of soil depth, root vegetables will require greater depth. Length and width can also vary based on site conditions, but a width of about an arm’s length is generally recommended for easy planting, harvesting, and weeding.
Prefabricated wood or metal beds can be purchased, or you can build your own using lumber. Cedar is often preferred over pine because it lasts longer, although it is more expensive. Use caution when considering repurposed or pressure-treated wood. Before 2004, pressure-treated lumber was treated with copper, chromium, and arsenic, which could leach into the soil. If pressure-treated wood is used, make sure it is labeled for ground contact. Whenever possible, choose untreated or naturally rot-resistant materials.
A good soil mix for framed raised beds is about one-half to two-thirds topsoil and one-third to one-half aged compost. This can require a large amount of material and may be costly depending on the size of the bed. Buying bulk topsoil by the cubic yard is usually less expensive than purchasing bags of raised bed mix. For smaller beds, bagged raised bed mix may be more practical. Avoid using free fill or topsoil from unfamiliar sources, as these may contain contaminants, invasive weeds, or invasive jumping worms.
To save money on filling a raised bed, some gardeners use hügelkultur, a method that fills the lower portion of the bed with logs, sticks, leaves, grass clippings, or kitchen scraps before adding topsoil and compost on top. Larger materials are placed in the bottom then followed by smaller organic materials overtop. Over time, the bulky material breaks down and enriches the soil. Because the material settles as it decomposes, additional topsoil and compost may need to be added annually.
Plant Choice
Annual plants are generally better suited to raised beds than perennials or shrubs. Extreme temperature fluctuations in raised beds are not ideal for overwintering perennials, and the need to periodically add more soil makes raised beds better suited to annual crops.
Care and Maintenance of Raised Beds
Both mounded and framed raised beds dry out faster than in-ground gardens, so supplemental irrigation is usually needed throughout the growing season. Weed pressure may be minimal, but regular weeding will still be necessary. Raised beds should be mulched to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.
The paths between raised beds can be planted in turf, covered with wood chips, topped with crushed gravel, or left as bare ground. Keep in mind that paths between mounded beds may need to be mowed or weeded regularly. They will also likely become compacted over time due to foot traffic.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Look Before You Leap Before Buying Fruit Trees
Garden centers and other retail stores have fruit trees for sale now, and in some instances, the price is too good to pass up. But before you run out and buy fruit trees, there are some things you need to consider before purchasing. First and foremost, consider whether you will need more than one tree, or variety of tree, to ensure good cross-pollination.
Peaches, tart cherry, and apricots are self-fruitful and do not need another variety in order to pollinate well. A single tree will produce fruit if all environmental conditions are adequate. But most sweet cherries and pears will not produce much fruit unless the proper cross-pollinator variety is nearby. For example, if you want Bartlett pears, then you will also need another pear variety- d’Anjou, Bosc, or Comice- to ensure proper pollination and good fruit yield.
Providing a cross-pollinator with apples is especially tricky. They are self-unfruitful and require another variety of apple whose flowering period overlaps with it to ensure optimum pollination of the flowers. Pollinator requirements are often not well- understood by novice gardeners who are planning to grow apples for the first time. Many people make the mistake of only buying the apple trees they want for fruit, such as MacIntosh, and they do not realize they will need one more variety of the correct cross-pollinator to get fruit of an acceptable amount.
Apples belong to one of three groups- early, mid, and late-season -blooming. So early and mid-season blooming varieties will provide adequate cross-pollination and fruit set with each other, while mid and late-season varieties will do the same. A late blooming variety then will not provide cross-pollination with an early blooming variety. Conversely, an early blooming variety will not help a late- blooming variety cross-pollinate. The mid-season flowering varieties can be effective cross-pollinators of both the early and late-season varieties.
Note: if there are flowering crabapples nearby that flower at the same time as the apple variety you have, then cross-pollination can be sufficient. Crabapple flowers attract diverse bees and other pollinators. If you already have an ornamental crabapple that flowers when your apple tree does, that will likely be sufficient to ensure good pollination of your apple tree. Apple varieties like Jonathan, Jonagold, Golden Delicious, Gal and several are listed a self-fruitful, but they will set more fruit if cross-pollinated.
To simplify a gardener’s efforts to get the best cross-pollinators for their fruit trees, there are charts available that can be printed and brought to the garden center or nursery that will help in fruit tree selection. If you find a fruit tree variety you really like, do a little research before buying it see whether another variety will be needed for cross-pollination or not. For a good fact sheet that explains the ins and outs of fruit tree pollination there is valuable information on the following link:
https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6001
I hope we have a great fruit growing year here in Connecticut. May the pollinators and good weather be with us.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.