Garden Chores

Preparing for Spring on CRIS Radio

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CRIS Radio: Focal Point 2/21/2025

Heather Zidack from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center talks to host, Stephen Thal, about climate change in the garden, houseplants, seed starting and more!

Transcript

Transcript 

00:00:01 Stephen Thal 

Hi, welcome to another segment on focal Point. This is Stephen Thal and I'm your host for today's program. 

We're going to be learning a lot about getting ready for the spring when we realize the weather is still not quite ready for spring flowers, but we want to get everybody thinking about it. So when the time comes, they'll have some ammunition and be prepared to get in there and get their hands dirty. 

00:00:31 Stephen Thal 

To help us understand that we have Heather from the plant and science program at the University of Connecticut. Welcome back Heather. 

00:00:41 Heather Zidack 

Hi Stephen. Thanks for having me back! 

00:00:43 Stephen Thal 

Yeah, it's great because you gave everybody some spirits to think about and encouragement. One of the things that we've been reading about lately is about climate control. And we were curious, you know, as we look around the country, different things are happening. People can't seem to explain why the weather has changed so drastically, and we're sure that this will impact the way we think about our flowers and the way we want to put a garden in and do herbs. Can you help us understand what climate control may be doing to this? 

00:01:22 Heather Zidack 

Yeah. So there are some things that we are noticing, especially from people just calling into our office with , um, in relation to climate change and a couple of the big things that have happened in 2023, I believe it was the fall of 2023 they did change the USDA hardiness zones. Which, when you're shopping for plants, your zone is actually going to tell you the coldest temperature that plants can tolerate to survive in your area. And so Connecticut, we're about a Zone 6 at this point, is the safe one. But it did shift and so there are parts of the state that are even seeing some warmer. Especially Shoreline is a little closer to zone 7. 

And you can look that up through the USDA to see the change from the zones. But that's a big change. Part of that happened because they had more data points and they could actually get more weather stations to report on what was going on, so it became a little more accurate in that sense. But we are also seeing some climate change effects happening as well. 

We’ve seen you know a lot of flooding over the past couple years. Remember up in you know, Vermont, New Hampshire, they had some of those floods that led to crop loss and contamination of fields. Storms with heavy winds can damage a lot of crops sometimes. 

And higher heat and humidity can affect your gardens as well.  

So if you're looking for management techniques, the first thing that you can do is make sure that you're providing enough water and nutritional support to your plants to endure any stresses that they might see during the growing season. So get a soil test. 

Have your your soil ready to go. Know what fertilizer you need. 

And make sure you're watering. Not too much, not too little. But you're keeping up with what the plants need. That's going to help them build their defenses, just like when we take vitamin C in the winter to prevent colds. 

If you're going to be seeing some hot weather come around and there's heat management strategies, one of the first things you want to do is remove weeds. It actually helps to increase air flow around the plants and also remove competition for some of those nutrients and water that I talked about a minute ago. 

You can also use shade cloth or something to kind of keep the plants out of the hot hot heat of the sun, especially on those really hot days. If you're able to, If you've got potted plants and you can move them to a a sheltered spot on those hot days it works for them. 

But those are a couple heat management strategies. 

00:03:58 Stephen Thal 

What about bugs? 

00:03:59 Heather Zidack 

For me? Oh. 

00:04:00 Stephen Thal 

What about anima-, little bugs like fleas, ticks, beetles? 

00:04:04 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, well, it's something that we notice in the garden and when we see these different fluctuations in heat and temperature. We see a lot of fluctuations in our insect populations. 

So we do see there have been some instances where you haven't had the ability to really have a good kill off of everything in the environment. And so the next year we see more bugs coming out. Our office deals primarily with the garden insects and the pathogens. So seeing things like-Last year, there was a lot of Japanese beetles. Last year there was a lot of fungal infections. 

Really, the best thing that you can do for that is again making sure any weeds are gone so they don't have anywhere to hide in your garden. You can also space your plants as they're recommended in order to make sure that you're having good airflow and good movement in between them, and again you're removing hiding places and you also want to prune all your woody ornamentals to encourage air flow too. 

So if those are some good strategies for that. 

00:05:09 Stephen Thal 

You mentioned fertilizer and doing soil testing. Is there a phone number that people can call and how do they do that? 

00:05:17 Heather Zidack 

Absolutely, so soil testing can be done anytime that the ground is not frozen, so I think we're in the one time of the year where we can't do it right now, but once the ground thaws, the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab is available for testing.They do a standard nutrient test and that covers all the basic nutrients that you would need for your home garden as well as pH so their phone number is 860-486-4274. 

Again, that's 860-486-4274. 

00:05:57 Stephen Thal 

Ok, Great. 

00:05:58 Stephen Thal 

So we now got to prepare for maintaining our house plants. As well as taking care of those that we choose to go outside and give them some fresh air and not allow too much heat, how are we going to do this? 

How do we prepare for it? 

00:06:16 Heather Zidack 

Yeah. So one of the things that you want to make sure that you're doing, it's still a little too cold to put anything outside just yet. You want to remember that our target is 50° at night before you're putting any plants outside. 

What you want to do with your house plans inside is you want to check for water. Make sure that they're accurate adequately-They have enough moisture in the pot. 

You want to check with your fingers, make sure that it's not clumping up too much in your hand. You want to make sure that it's also not like sand texture. You want to make sure there's an even moisture you might not need to water as much right now, especially if your plants are dormant, just like we don't think about hydration much in the winter, because we're not outside and in the heat, plants are the same way. So check before you water every time. 

The other thing that you can do right now is dust the leaves to scout for pests and disease. 

You can also start fertilizing your house plants when you see new and active growth. So like if there's new leaves, if there's new buds, if they're new shoots, those are signs your plant is waking up and you could use a little food at that point. 

And you want to make sure that you're checking any bulbs or plants that you have in winter storage. So if you dug anything up from your yard, like Canna lilies or Gladiolus bulbs or anything like that, check those bulbs in storage. 

Make sure they’re firm. Make sure there's no discoloration or smell to them and they should have some kind of humidity with them, but not too much. So if you had stored them in peat Moss, maybe missed in with the bottle for a second, but they don't need sopping water just yet. So you want to check all of those things. 

00:07:56 Stephen Thal

And what kind of tools do we need to help us with our projects?

00:08:03 Heather Zidack 

So big thing right now is going to be pruning season, so you can use-depends on the the size of the plant. But if you're outside, you want to have some some good hand pruners or some loppers- Depends on the size of your branches, but pruning right now is an advantage because there's low disease and low pest pressure outside, so plants can easily recover without being exposed to any other diseases. 

In general, people use hand pruners or like I said Loppers which are a little bit larger to cut their their trees back. 

And the rule that you follow is the rule of thirds. You don't want to cut off more than 1/3 of the entire plant if you want to leave 2/3 standing. And that ensures that there's enough of a ratio between roots and shoots that there's healthy regrowth.  

With that being said there are some different pruning techniques that can be suggested for different species of plants.  

So always consult with an arborist or landscaper or give our office a call. If you ever have any questions. 

00:09:10 Stephen Thal

And what about choosing the right fertilizer?

I know there are many different kinds. I know I've heard of fertilizer from Maine where they save all of the lobster shells, crab shells and mix them all together. And that's supposed to be good too, for your plants. 

00:09:29 Heather Zidack 

There's all kinds of fertilizers out there and so. There's different products that are organic. You have things like manures and composts and things like that. Also have synthetic materials like regular. You have coast of Maine like you talked about. The important thing when you're looking for fertilizers, we always recommend getting that soil test first. Because you want to know what your baseline is, right? 

You want to know where you're starting before you add anything else. Once you have that, the soil test is going to tell you in general terms you have 3 numbers on a bag. If you look at a bag of fertilizer, there's going to be usually something like the effect of 10-10-10, 5-5-5, 10-15-10 20-20-20, something like that. 

Those 3 numbers there, those 3 numbers represent in this order nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. So when you're looking at those numbers, you're actually looking at a percentage of how much of that nutrient is in the bag. 

00:10:31 Heather Zidack 

So once you have your soil test for example and it says you are deficient in potassium. So, NPK, your third number there would be the one that you would want to add a little bit more of you would maybe look for something like a 5-5-10. 

00:10:47 Heather Zidack 

It all depends on what your soil test comes out as and what you're actually looking for with a specific crop, so it's hard to give a generalization, but knowing how to read that bag is your first step in knowing what to shop for when you're ready. 

00:11:02 Stephen Thal

If we're going ahead and deciding to plant herbs, is this a good time of the year inside to get those started?

00:11:11 Heather Zidack 

Absolutely. There's a lot of plants that you can start right now. Herbs are going to be great for kitchen gardens. You can pretty much start them any time of year. 

Great for culinary purposes, but they're also loved by pollinators. The Swallow tail Caterpillar in particular loves things like dill and parsley plants, and they're all over them in my yard. So I actually grow a little extra just for them. 

00:11:35 Heather Zidack 

You get a lot of fragrance and texture out of all of the fresh herbs, which is fantastic, and it can be easily done, indoor or outdoor. 

So right now you would want to start everything indoors that you want. The really cool thing with herbs is that there are some of them, like basil is an example. You know how they sell the basil plants in grocery stores, right? 

00:11:56 Stephen Thal 

Right. 

00:11:57 Heather Zidack 

So what you can do is you can actually cut off a stem of that basil, remove the leaves up to like the first leaf, maybe the first 3 or 4 leaves up there, put it in water, and it'll send out its own roots that you could then put in a pot yourself. 

00:12:12 Heather Zidack 

So you don't necessarily even need to do anything with seeds. You can do cuttings to keep your herbs going. 

00:12:17 Heather Zidack 

The only thing I would recommend is to plant if you're going to plant mint. Keep it in containers and keep it away from the ground. Don't put it outside unless you want to grow it for the rest of your life. It does have a pretty aggressive tendency, and once it hits the ground and gets rooted in, it can just grow and grow and grow. And then you have mint in that area forever. 

But other than that, herbs are great to start right now. 

00:12:43 Heather Zidack 

A lot of people are starting, especially if they do cut flowers and small seeded plants right now. Like if you think snapdragons. If you think Cosmos, some of those they need to start now because they need a lot of time to grow. Veggie wise. People are starting things like broccoli and Brussels sprouts at this point. 

Most people have started like onions and shallots by now, but you probably still have time if you were to do it like right now. And so really, there's a lot of different veggies that you could be starting right now. 

00:13:19 Stephen Thal 

Yeah, those are are very critical things that we have to keep keep aware of. 

00:13:26 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, timing is everything with when it comes to starting. 

00:13:30 Stephen Thal 

Right. And this is Stephen Thal with another segment on Focal Point and we're interviewing Heather from the Yukon plant and Science program and they offer a lot of help to citizens in the state. In terms of not only analyzing the soil, but talking to you about the different kinds of plants or herbs that you might want to consider starting and what has to be done to maintain them, and we know that Climate change has strongly impacted the way we have to do our season so that we can take all of our hard labor in to make sure we get some good results and not have it fail for us during the during the coming growing season. 

00:14:20 Stephen Thal 

I think it. 

00:14:20 Heather Zidack 

Yeah. 

00:14:21 Stephen Thal 

I think it forces us to have a have a little more time to work with this. 

00:14:30 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, it's really interesting. You know the frost date is a big thing that's important when you start planting seeds and when you start planting outside, especially with vegetable gardens and a lot of gardeners- 

I remember, even when I was young, used to plant right around Mother's Day, which is in mid-May. In the past couple years, we probably could have done that, but you have to really watch the weather. 

I've seen a few seasons where you're waiting past Memorial Day, which is the end of May at this point, and it's-For me, Memorial Day has become more of that target. Be like-this Is definitely the weekend things are going to go in. 

You can keep an eye on the weather. And as long as the weather is staying above, you know, we're not getting frost. You can put your seedlings out, but you're taking a risk because we can have a frost anytime in that spring, part of May, and if you do you can lose your seedlings, so if you do put anything in the ground a little bit early do so with caution. 

Keep an eye on the weather and be prepared to be able to run out and cover them if you need to. We always recommend like fabric coverings like either a towel or a sheet or a pillow case or something like that to cover your plants if they're in the ground and we have a frost coming. Using anything like plastic is definitely going to exacerbate the problem and cause more damage when it comes to frost and freezes than anything else. 

So I would say. Look at your frost date. 

I know the Farmers Almanac has a target frost date that you can look up, but if you want to play on the super safe side, I plant right around Memorial Day and that's a good time to plant, be outside and make sure that you're keeping an eye on the weather when you're putting things out. 

00:16:21 Stephen Thal 

Are there specific questions you should be asking the local gardeners or when you go in and buy things? To make sure you're getting the things that you want, especially the different plants. 

00:16:35 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, you want to look for quality seed whenever you're purchasing. In general, most garden centres have. Seed that is timely. So you're going to see, just like we have certain products in the grocery store that have like an expiration date. There are seeds that have that date planted on the back. 

They should be packed for this year and I believe they have to sell seeds that are packed for this year, so that's not something that you have to worry about too much, but it is good to know where to look for that information. Look at where It will say “packed for” and then it will have the year on there. 

It'll also show the germination rate, which is how well, the seed will actually sprout. That's advertised on the envelope as well as like a quality control and so you want to make sure that it's got a good germination rate. 

I've seen seed products before that I've purchased where they had a note on the envelope that said last year we had a low germination rate. So this year we're giving you extra seed and in the envelope it was a little heavier pack than what it had been in previous year. 

So you want to make sure you've got a good germination rate. You want to make sure that there's a a date that's packed for this year. Those are both more important than anything like brand. You want to make sure that you're looking for good seed when you're starting. 

Something to keep in mind is that there are- if you are someone who saves seeds from year to year, you want to make sure you're storing them well. Keeping them in a cool, dry area. 

And if you do have seeds that are either seed that you've saved and you have a history of, like plant disease in previous years, or if you've bought untreated seeds and you have a reason to have concern that maybe you had some kind of, you know, plant disease a previous year. You can have your seeds treated with something called hot water seed treatment and our plant diagnostic lab does that. 

00:18:37 Heather Zidack 

To help make sure that there are no pathogens on the feed when you plant them in the ground to give them a healthy start. So that's an option, especially if you have a history of disease in your garden that some gardeners do like to take advantage of. 

00:18:52 Stephen Thal 

Oh, that's good. 

00:18:53 Stephen Thal 

Are there any special plants that some of the gardeners may be putting out this for sale that we need to be aware of, especially for the disease? 

00:19:04 Heather Zidack 

So you want to be careful with-I will say if you're looking at things like plant swaps and you're going to like Garden Club plant swaps and things like that, we did help out a lot of garden clubs last year as they were looking at how to do this while still being aware of the jumping warm issue. And so jumping worms are an invasive worm that are going from property to property and the best way to make sure that they don't transfer between properties is to make sure that your roots of your plants are cleaned off.  

So. A lot of, especially at plant swaps, a lot of these garden clubs were having people dig their plants that they were willing to donate. Rinse the plants off at the roots. Repot them into soilless potting media. 

And then they were willing to trade them and and exchange them at these swaps. 

So you want to make sure if you are going to plant swaps, they are taking some kind of precaution like that and if they are not, you can still take the plant home but you want to make sure that you're doing the rinsing of the roots to make sure that nothing is coming onto your property. 

00:20:18 Heather Zidack 

We had a lot of garden clubs that were able to take some of these procedures and be very successful with their plant swaps and not have to worry about it at all. But education is that first step in knowing how to manage this issue right and so that way they knew that they had to rinse the roots. They had to keep their gardeners educated on how to prevent this from spreading, and they were able to still have plant swaps and stuff, so not encouraging any fear of plant swaps. 

Just kind of giving you that heads up of tou may need to wash the roots if you bring some. 

00:20:50 Stephen Thal 

Yeah, those are very important things. And I think also as a person who may be out with your plants or just sitting in the yard admiring them, I think we need to remind people to wear their sunglasses and to wear a hat and use proper sun protection. 

00:21:07 Heather Zidack 

Very important. I always used to tell my colleagues when I worked at a garden center, I'd say water the plants and water yourself. 

00:21:16 Stephen Thal 

That's good. 

00:21:17 Stephen Thal 

Yeah. Good. 

00:21:20 Stephen Thal 

Any other items you'd like to have us our listeners be aware of and enjoy their spring fling in the garden and in their house plants. 

00:21:32 Heather Zidack 

Yeah. One of the things that I would love to make everyone aware of is that the Connecticut Flower and Garden show is coming up at the end of February. It's going to be February 20th to 23rd at the Hartford Convention Center and the Home and Garden Education Center, Myself and my colleagues will be there answering garden questions. 

So if you have garden questions, please feel free to stop by and say hi to us. We've also got speakers that are going to be there every single day. And it's a nice taste of spring because a lot of local landscapers and garden centres will do full on displays. 

00:22:10 Heather Zidack 

It's very cold. We're starting to see Snow and it's nice to take a break and just have that smell of fresh flowers all around and everything. So it's a great opportunity to get a taste of spring. And get your garden questions answered. If you need to see us. So it's really good coming up. 

00:22:29 Heather Zidack 

The other thing that I have for advice, if you're looking for spring a little bit early is if you have anything like Dogwood, forsythia, crab apple in your house or in your property, you can take cuttings of them and put the branches in warm water. 

And they could force the flowers to open right now. So you could get a little bit of spring early in your house by doing that. 

00:22:53 Heather Zidack 

The other thing that's really important to keep in mind is that if you are an avid gardener. It's a good time to take any of your tools that are in the shed and make sure they're in proper working order. Make sure that all of the handles are tightened. 

Make sure everything is sharpened if it needs to be sharpened and paint the handles with a bright red or bright orange paint to help you see them when you put them down in the garden. 

00:23:17 Stephen Thal 

Yeah. And I think also lawn mowers or any working tools like that should be taken to a mechanic to make sure everything's working. 

00:23:24 Heather Zidack 

Absolutely anything with an engine. Don't do yourself. 

00:23:30 Stephen Thal 

Yeah. Sounds like you've had some experiences. 

00:23:34 Heather Zidack 

Yeah. 

00:23:35 Stephen Thal 

Now in terms of plants, we have to watch out for some of these poisons that may be used to help plants. Are there any that we should avoid? 

00:23:47 Heather Zidack 

So most of the ones, fortunately, that you want to avoid too much are not allowed for sale to homeowners. That's a really, really good thing. 

What you want to make sure that you're looking at if if anyone is using any chemicals in the garden. Every single product has a label on it, and that label has to match whatever you're trying to to achieve, right? 

So If you're trying to eliminate cabbage worms, for example, in your garden. That label needs to say that that product will take care of cabbage worm. 

Otherwise you should not be using it whatsoever, and so we say this recommendation with any chemical, but also all of those home remedies that you hear about. We don't recommend using them because there's not that science to back it up that says this label identifies the cabbage worms. And cabbage worms are my identified problem so this is going to work. So that's one of the first things. 

00:24:45 Heather Zidack 

The other thing that's really important in making sure that you're monitoring regularly and looking for bugs. Because a lot of times if you can take care of the problem early, you don't necessarily need those chemicals. Or there could be other ways to manage it before you get to that point. So as soon as you see something, get a picture and we could help you or have someone at a garden center help you identify what's what's going on. And what you can do to treat it. 

00:25:14 Heather Zidack 

Reading that label is the most important thing that anybody can do, and it's the safest thing because you want to make sure you're doing targeted approaches to target species when you're using any chemicals in the garden. 

00:25:27 Stephen Thal 

Yeah. And also if you have a bug you're not familiar with, put it in a little container and send it up to you guys. 

00:25:35 Heather Zidack 

Yes, we can do that. We do insect identification-insects found in the garden. If, if they're found inside the home, we usually recommend like either a pest control expert or there's other resources available, but we are definitely able to do any garden pest. 

00:25:53 Stephen Thal 

Yeah. How about the got local garden clubs? Can they be helpful too? 

00:25:58 Heather Zidack 

Sometimes! They actually have some good resources. 

00:26:03 Heather Zidack 

If you're looking for an identification or a diagnosis, it really is good to come to the either the plant diagnostic lab or our office here because we have the connection to the diagnostic lab. But there are garden clubs. There are a lot of people with a lot of knowledge about gardening. The the reason that we we pride ourselves on is because we have a lot of research based information that we’re able to share with our clients. 

00:26:31 Stephen Thal 

Well, we want to thank you for coming in and sharing this vital information for getting your spring things started. 

00:26:40 Heather Zidack 

Thank you so much for having me. 

00:26:40 Stephen Thal 

And you know well, give us a call when the neck was a fall we have to get ready. 

Or. If there's any alerts, we can send them out. 

00:26:50 Heather Zidack 

Yes, I will let you know if there's anything else. 

00:26:55 Stephen Thal 

Well, I thank you very much, Heather, for coming on again. At the program we really enjoyed. 

I'm sure I got a lot out of it and I'm sure people here got a lot out of it. 

Appreciate you and your staff for all you do, why don't you give your number one more time? 

00:27:12 Heather Zidack 

Yes, if anybody has gardening questions for us, they can call and our number is 877-486-6271. Again, that's 877-486-6271. 

00:27:31 Stephen Thal 

OK, very , good. Thank you. Everybody thank you. 

Thank you for all you do to help make us a successful spring season. 

00:27:39 Heather Zidack 

Yes, thank you for having me. Have a good spring! 

00:27:41 Stephen Thal 

Like this is Steven Thal and another segment on focal point and we wanted to thank you the listeners for listening to all of the focal point programs. 

00:27:53 Stephen Thal 

As we mentioned earlier in the program, please wear your sunglasses and a hat because the sun is going to be a lot stronger this year because of climate changes. 

And also practice a family plan. If you don't know anything about it, contact a local fire department or go on the computer regarding emergency fire plans and involve everybody in in the House and doing a piece of it. And if you practice it a few times and also make sure that. Your fire alarm batteries or whatever are up to date cause a lot of them today are lasting 10 years. 

So get involved because life you say may be your own. 

00:28:36 Stephen Thal 

Thank you for allowing us into your homes. Safe and stay healthy. 

Do You Dig Dahlias?

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dahlias in a bed at Enders island
Dahlias at Enders Island. Photo by dmp2024

A couple of weeks ago, I was fortunate to visit the spectacular dahlia gardens on Enders Island in Mystic. For those unfamiliar with this retreat, an 11-acre seaside estate was donated to the Society Edmund by Mrs. Alys E. Enders in 1954. This Roman Catholic religious community offers ministry, retreats and respite to many. The grounds are open to all for contemplation or just unbound appreciation of nature and horticultural beauty.

Gardeners will delight in the gorgeous, well laid out garden rooms but especially be entranced by the vast array of dahlias. The gardens at Enders Island are filled with over 300 varieties of prize-winning dahlias in all colors (except blue), shapes and sizes imaginable. A Dahlia Preservation Trust was established to preserve the dahlia collection that is rated as one of the largest in New England.

Any of us growing dahlias while appreciating their cheery, attractive blossoms lasting long into the fall, do realize they are not winter hardy, even with milder winters attributed to climate change.  Dahlias are native to Central America. In fact, they are Mexico’s national flower. Those wishing to save the tuberous roots for replanting next year, must dig them up and store them over the winter.

Ideally, gardeners should wait until a frost blackens the foliage. Then, if possible, wait a week so any carbohydrates left in the above ground tissue can make their way to the roots to enable good sprouting next spring when the tuberous roots are replanted. This has been a particularly confusing fall to both plants and gardeners. Frosts have hit some areas but often not severe enough to affect all plants and dahlias in more protected sites are still blooming their heads off, a trait most appreciated by pollinators such as bees.

On the other hand, it is November. Time to reign in gardening activities and begin preparations for the holidays. What’s a gardener to do?

Since my plants were losing bottom leaves to disease and looking a little ragged, I just decided it was time to dig them and move the tuberous roots into the cellar. Before digging any dahlias, be sure to note their names. If tags were not written out when planting, make them out now if color and flower type are important.

Cut back stems to 2 or 3 inches and carefully dig the tubers starting at least 8 inches away from crowns so tubers do not get sliced or speared. Use a spade or pitchfork but dig in carefully. This year the soil is so dry that it was not necessary to leave the tuberous roots in the sun for a few hours so the soil clinging to them could dry and be shaken off. Every one I dug up was dry enough so that practically no soil clung to the roots. Each was placed in a separate container with repurposed labels.

Dahlia tubers with a white tag
Dahlia tubers tagged for storage. Photo by dmp2024

Perusing through online sources, many suggest washing tubers off with a hose and letting them dry before storing. I have let them dry out in wet falls and shaken dried soil from them before storing but have never hosed them off. Maybe follow the approach that makes most sense to you. If any remaining soil is washed off, the tuberous roots should most likely be stored in lightly moistened peat moss or other slightly damp organic material, so they will not desiccate over the winter. For me, leaving a bit of soil around the roots that are stored in pots in the cellar over winter helps to keep tubers from shriveling with only a sparse sprinkle of water once or twice a month.

When happy, dahlias will multiply but it is probably best to leave the whole clump together and separate it before planting next spring when multiple buds or eyes can be seen. Keep the tuberous roots at 45 to 55 degrees F and check every 2 to 3 weeks for signs of decay or desiccation.

For an early start, the tuberous roots can be set into beds usually by late April unless unseasonably cold weather is predicted. If you have questions about overwintering dahlias or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Is Early Leaf Drop an Indicator of Tree Health?

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By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, Plant Diagnostic Lab

Trees showing their autumn colors
Trees showing their fall colors. Photo by Nick Goltz

The autumnal equinox, one of two times of the year at which day and night are equal in length, just passed on Sunday the 22nd. While this point marks the astrological start of fall, many of the trees lining the roads on my drive to work (and in many of our clients’ yards) seem to want to get a head start on the season. Since late August, we’ve been getting calls from folks across Connecticut asking why the leaves on their trees are changing color and falling early. You may even be thinking, “Hey, a few of my trees are dropping their leaves early too. Is that something that can indicate how healthy they are?” In a word, maybe!

First, let me share the good news that, for most trees, premature color change and leaf drop doesn’t mean that they are in any immediate danger. Plants, much like humans and other animals, respond to stress differently depending on their environment and the kind of year they’ve been having. Just like we might see a little hair loss after a particularly stressful few months, trees may drop their leaves early as a response to stress. Identifying what is causing the stress however, is important when deciding if concern is warranted.

What type of stressors might be causing this early color change and leaf drop? For most trees, the answer is water. Connecticut and several other states in New England had a series of heavy rain events and flash flooding throughout the summer. While we’ve had hardly any rain in the land of steady habits for several weeks now, for many trees, the damage has already been done and symptoms are just appearing now. Saturated soils deprived plant roots of oxygen, damaging them and making them more susceptible to disease. Plants in especially low-lying areas, caught in floodwaters, or grown in poorly-draining clay soils likely experienced the most damage and earliest leaf drop.  Some plants may have even perished outright from the damage. Besides water, excessive heat and the increased prevalence of fungal and bacterial diseases, as well as some insect pests, may have also contributed to the stress our plants are letting us know about now.

So, how can you know if the early color change or leaf drop is an issue for your favorite tree or just its way of complaining about a stressful summer? When and where the leaf change and drop is occurring can help you determine if the damage is likely a normal stress response or due to something more sinister.

Consider when the color change and leaf drop first began. In this instance, seeing some leaves begin to change in the last week of August is less concerning than seeing them change at the end of June. Plants that have their leaves change color and drop in midsummer or earlier are most likely dealing with a disease or pest issue, rather than a stress response. I recommend you get advice for these plants by contacting the UConn Home & Garden Education Center and remove them from your garden if they are unlikely to recover.

Also, consider what part(s) of the canopy was affected. Conifers such as white pine drop their leaves (we usually call them needles) in response to stress too, but you will typically see this take place on the interior of the plant – the older needles that aren’t capturing much sun anymore. Branches on deciduous trees, such as oak, that are in shady spots tend to drop their leaves early too, and this is normal.

Branches in full sun that lose their leaves very early, while others on the tree remain fine, are a bit suspicious. Mark these branches with tape or string and monitor them carefully as the plant produces its first leaves or flowers in the spring. If these marked branches do not produce leaves or flowers with the rest of the tree, get advice (again, by contacting the folks at the UConn HGEC)! The best option is usually to cut them close to the main trunk, then disinfect your pruning tools.

If you’re concerned about the health of your tree, including as a result of a potential disease or pest issue, practice good fall habits to give your trees the best foot forward next spring! Clean as much leaf litter as possible and remove it from the base of trees that dropped their leaves early. If you suspect the plant is diseased or has pests, throw away these leaves or burn them before composting. For example, many plant pathogenic fungi can survive the winter on fallen leaves and reinfect healthy plant tissue the following spring. It’s also a good idea to minimize added stress for your plants. Try not to expose them to herbicides, deicing salts, fertilizers, or other chemicals until they’re looking strong again.

If you aren’t sure how to proceed with your fall cleanup or if you’d simply like a second opinion on your favorite tree, get free horticultural consultation from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center by emailing ladybug@uconn.edu or by calling (877) 486-6271.

Time to Fertilize Your Lawn

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

A person pushing a spreader
Photo by dmp2024

While September brings with it shorter days, we still have plenty of opportunities to attend to those fall yard and garden chores. Among them is applying fertilizer to lawns. Keep in mind that for the most part, our lawns consist of cool season grasses. In a more typical year, turfgrass growth slows down during dry, hot summer weather. Up until the past few weeks, this summer had seen enough rainfall to keep lawns green and growing.

Turf plants take up nutrients as they grow and these need to be occasionally replenished. September through mid-October is a perfect time to do so as the cooler temperatures stimulate shoot and root growth and hopefully, some gentle fall rains will help the nutrients infiltrate the soil and reach the roots.

So, what kind and how much fertilizer does one need? Of course, the best way to determine that is with a soil test (www.soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu) but without a soil test, follow the directions on the fertilizer package. Whether one chooses a natural/organic or a synthetic fertilizer is up to the individual. A 2024 National Lawn Fertilizer Study by Axiom, found that 95% of respondents said it was important to apply fertilizers that are safe for children, pets and the environment. Somewhat ironically, despite safety concerns, 67% have used fertilizers that contain weed killers or insecticides. In most cases, applications of any kind of pesticide, whether it be an herbicide, insecticide or fungicide are not necessary at this time of year.

Most folks who tend lawns or gardens are aware that fertilizer packages come with a guaranteed analysis. These are the 3 numbers on the package, for example 5-10-10. They are always in the same order and always stand for the percent by dry weight of total nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Unless you are purchasing a lawn starter fertilizer, which you would use for new seedings and soddings, you will notice that maintenance lawn fertilizers sold in Connecticut have 0 as a middle number, so for instance 18- 0- 4.

This is because of phosphorus legislation passed in 2013. Many people may not be aware that phosphorus is the number one inland freshwater pollutant in the state and when it enters streams, rivers, ponds or lakes, it encourages algae growth that eventually dies and decomposes depleting the oxygen in the water and leading to fish kills. Also, it may encourage the growth of toxic cyanobacteria as well as making the waters undesirable for recreational activities. In a nutshell, the law says that phosphorus should not be applied to an established lawn unless a soil test performed in the past 2 years provides a recommendation for phosphorus.

When applying a lawn fertilizer, either the soil test recommendations or the ones on the package call for approximately 1 pound of nitrogen to be applied for every 1000 square feet of lawn. Two things to check are the size of your lawn and also, the setting on your spreader.

Ideally one would like to apply the fertilizer when the grass is dry but before a light rain. If no rain is predicted, it would be beneficial if the lawn was watered lightly so that fertilizer prills are not sticking to the blades of grass but washed into the soil.

Lawn fertilizers generally are available as either fast or slow release. The nutrients in fast release fertilizers, especially nitrogen, are generally water soluble and readily available to your lawn grasses. Many lawn fertilizers also contain slow release or water insoluble forms of nitrogen. These are typically more expensive but supply nitrogen over longer periods of time. They are less likely to burn and more slowly fertilize plants.

Whichever one you pick; it should be put down by October 15th. Weather is unpredictable after that, and plants may or may not be able to use the nutrients before colder temperatures prevail and grass growth slows.

This time of year is great for reseeding any bare spots, topdressing with compost if organic matter levels are low, using a mulching mower to incorporate leaves as they fall and for aerating if the soil is compacted. Send your lawn questions to ladybug@uconn.edu or call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center with your queries at (877) 486-6271.

Fall is a Fabulous Time to Plant!

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Evergreens for sale at a nursery
Photo by H. Zidack

There’s no doubt that spring planting is exciting. The instant gratification that comes with putting in our new gardens and seeing flowers and greenery right away is unmatched.  Late season planting is a different animal altogether. There’s a slower pace, less pressure for perfection, and a promise of beauty next season – leaving us the chance to take up other projects in the spring.

Many gardeners will start planting hardy bulbs this fall, but you can do so much more! Planting trees, shrubs, and perennials in the late summer/early fall provides enough time for plants to get established without the heat and drought stresses of summer. New plants installed in the fall have enough time to develop healthy roots and settle in before winter. Allow at least 6 weeks (about 1 and a half months) before the first hard frost to ensure strong establishment. It’s less stressful for plants, but also easier for gardeners to plant, water, and support our gardens when the weather is a bit cooler.

Your fall planted perennials, trees and shrubs will also flower “on time” next spring. Whether you've noticed it or not, flowering plants that we buy during the growing season are sometimes manipulated to bloom when you see them on the shelf. And while most plants will settle into their natural flowering cycle after their first year, planting in the fall ensures that you are starting the season with a bed that will bloom as nature intended.

Watering a shrub after planting
Photo by dmp2024

Keep a keen eye out for garden centers that may be trying to sell down their stock, so they don’t have to keep it during the winter. Plants may look a little more weathered, and past their prime. But don’t fret! If you shop smart, you can find some great plants for fantastic prices.

Shop for plants that have a nice form and strong root ball. Avoid plants that have apparent injury to trunks or branches. Old insect feeding damage, off colored leaves, or some drought damage may be recoverable. Remember that perennials will be cut back before their next flush, and deciduous shrubs will drop leaves and need pruning regardless of what they may look like right now. Never buy a plant that seems to have issues that you cannot identify, regardless of the bargain. If there are plants that you want that are unavailable, leave space for them to be planted next season.

The lower stress environmental conditions also make it a suitable time to transplant or divide plants that bloom in the spring or summer. When digging plants for transplanting, make sure to dig wide and deep to get as much of the root ball as possible. Division is a common practice with perennials and is as simple as driving a shovel through the center of the plant and digging out half of it to put somewhere else. Larger plants can be divided multiple times.

While it may seem like a promising idea to help push your plants along with some robust growth, fertilizing is not recommended in the fall. Pushing tender growth too close to chilly weather can leave the plant vulnerable to environmental damage, loss of shoots, and possibly even loss of flowers next season. Maintain them with adequate watering and supportive care. Provide good sanitation by removing and disposing of any questionable leaves that fall in your space, especially those from newly installed plants.

Planting in the fall and supporting your fall garden will help you lay a foundation for a successful spring.

If you have questions on fall gardening or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

 

End of Season Strawberry Renovation

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Strawberry row
Strawberries before renovation at the end of the season. Photos by dmp2024

Strawberry row after renovation
Strawberries after renovation at the end of the season. Photos by dmp2024

So, you decided to grow some strawberries this year. You carefully prepared the bed and have enjoyed your first crop. Now you are wondering what to do to keep your strawberry bed healthy and productive. In part, the care after harvest depends on whether you are growing June bearing or day neutral (everbearing) varieties and what kind of row systems you have them planted in.

June bearing strawberries are most commonly grown in what is known as the matted row system. Mother plants are set 18 to 24 inches apart in 3 to 4 1/2 foot rows and runners are allowed to root anywhere within the row. This system is usually the easiest to maintain. Typically, at the end of the third growing season both plant quality and fruit quantity start to decrease and the whole bed is dug up and replanted with new disease-free strawberry plants. Try to incorporate this into your garden rotation plan to reduce disease problems.

June bearers can also be grown in single rows composed of different aged plants with the original plants set about a foot apart. A second row is started with first year runners and set 18 inches from the initial planting. Use only the first or second daughter plants produced along the runners because they are the most vigorous and productive. The rest are usually discarded.

The next year a third row is made again using the first one or two daughter plants and once more surplus runners and plants are removed. After the original mother plants have produced fruit for about 3 years, they are generally replaced with new, disease-free stock and the cycle continues. This way one always has a row or two of strawberries in production. Ideally the row with the new strawberry plants should be located on a section of the garden where strawberries haven’t been grown for 3 to 5 years. This isn’t always possible in small yards, which is why it is important to purchase certified virus free stock.

After year two when June bearing strawberries have finished producing their crop, it is time to renovate. According to Evan Lentz, UConn Fruit Specialist and Assistant Extension Educator, renovating your June-bearing strawberries is one of the best ways to maximize your annual production, reduce disease instance, and maintain an orderly planting. Proper renovation ensures that you set yourself up for success in the following year and allows you to extend the life and productivity of this semi-perennial crop. This is doubly important for individuals producing fruit in an organic or no-spray system.

This can be done sometime in July through August. Lentz suggests starting by either mowing or clipping with hand trimmers all the foliage about 2 inches or so above the crowns. Next, go through the bed removing all weeds, and weak and extra strawberry plants and dead or dying leaves. Thin to space plants at least 10 to 12 inches apart and cultivate around these remaining plants.

Now is the time to fertilize your strawberries whether beds are renovated or not. Lentz recommends working in about 3 to 4 pounds of 10-10-10 or its organic equivalent per 100 square feet. Lightly scratch the fertilizer into the soil. Brush or rinse any fertilizer off leaves at the salts will injure them.

Day neutrals, such as ‘Tristar’, ‘Seascape’ and ‘Mara des Bois’ produce a fairly decent size crop in June and continue forming occasional berries until frost. Unlike June bearers which develop fruit buds in late summer and early fall, the ever bearers have the ability to form fruit buds throughout the summer. An advantage to growing day neutrals is you will still get strawberries even if a late spring frost kills their initial fruit buds.

In general, day neutrals are grown for 2 or 3 years and then a new batch of strawberries is planted. The day neutrals produce far fewer runners than the June bearers. The new daughter plants should all be removed although they can be transplanted into another area if desired. Plants are usually set one foot apart in single rows about 18 inches wide.

According to Lentz, all strawberries require at least an inch of water per week for vigorous growth. If dry weather sets in, plan on irrigating plants, especially those just renovated. Use a mulch of pine needles, straw or wood shavings to conserve moisture, keep weeds down and berries off the soil. Since strawberries are shallow rooted, it is important to keep weeds under control.

It does take a little time to maintain a strawberry bed but the luxury of picking your own berries for strawberry shortcake, jam or fresh eating makes it all worthwhile. If you have questions about growing strawberries or on any other home or garden topic, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Current Landscape and Garden Conundrums

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By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Here at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center we have been getting questions about three pests that have been particularly widespread in the state. Whether in the landscape or the garden, there is always something going on, good or bad, and keeping up with pests or perceived pests can be challenging. The following reflect the most common inquiries we have had over the past few weeks.

Asiatic garden beetles found in a spoonful of soil
Photo by Pamm Cooper

Asiatic garden beetles have been a real problem for many gardeners this year. An imported pest, these small, rusty brown, night-feeding pests can devastate plants overnight then disappear during the day. Leaving you to wonder what is eating your plants. Favorite plants include dahlias, basil, zinnias, sunflowers, peppers, eggplants and goldenrods. They will feed on over 100 herbaceous and woody plants. In the evening a plant can look great, and the next day it can be a skeleton of stems and leaf veins.

Check damaged plants at night with a flashlight; if they are active, you should find them. During the day, dig an inch or so into the mulch and soil under damaged plants. These beetles will hide there during the day. Some people have reported finding as many as 300 in a night, then 50 each night, until they find few or none. New beetles will fly in daily, so be vigilant. Feeding by adults should end by the end of August. Crush them or put them in a container of soapy water until they succumb. Foliage can also be treated with an appropriate insect control product that will kill them after they feed on the leaves, Read and follow label instructions carefully for any control products if they are needed.

Cicada killer holding a Cicada
Photo by Pamm Cooper

Cicada killers are rather mild-mannered (like Clark Kent) burrowing wasps that can cause alarm when they appear in the summer months. These wasps are very large, and females have the potential to sting, but have no aggressive nest-guarding instincts as do most other wasps or bees. What they have is size, and so become easily feared, especially when they burrow along sidewalks or other sandy areas close to pool, gardens and houses.

Female cicada killers burrow a rather rectangular tunnel deep into soft soils into which they will eventually drag a cicada they have paralyzed. They lay one egg on the victim and the larva will feed on the carcass and pupate over the winter. They may be a chronic problem in areas of sandy soils and can be discouraged by disrupting tunneling activity by drenching areas where they are actively tunneling with water. They do not like moist soils, so this may be the only control method needed. Digging may disrupt root systems of plants if the tunnels are made at the base of plants, and watering the plants affected in this way may settle the soil back around the roots. Use of any pesticide would only be effective if wasps are still going in and out of tunnels and should be used only if necessary.

The final pest we will cover are aphids. These piercing-sucking feeding type insects are small, but they can occur, seemingly overnight, in large numbers on plants. Aphids prefer newer growth like upper stems but are not so fussy later in the year when they feed on flower buds, old and new leaves and flower stems. Later in the summer some species may cover older stems right down to the ground. This is especially a problem on common and swamp milkweeds. Aphid feeding can cause wilting of plant parts above where heavy feeding occurs. Leaves can be mottled, then become distorted before turning brown.

Red aphids on a stem
Photo by Pamm Cooper

Control of aphids relies on paying attention every day. Aphid females can give birth to live young during the summer, often fifty or more new aphids appear from each female per day. This is why control seems effective, then before you can say “my plants look really good now”, there are scads of aphids back where they were before. Aphids in high numbers, especially on sturdy stems, can be crushed by hand, sprayed with a suffocating type product like insecticidal soap, or knocked off by a strong jet of water. Keep in mind that the reproductive females have wings, and they will take flight at the first sign of trouble. That is why they can persist on plants.

If aphids are a serious issue on plants, with no control measures apparently working, consider removing the affected plants and adding plants you know they so far have shunned as a food source. It may be a painful but necessary step.

Be alert to what is happening in your own backyard, for it is certain something, good or bad, is going on. The sooner you discover the bad, the better. Know that: “On every stem, on every leaf, and at the root of everything that grew, was a professional specialist in the shape of grub, caterpillar, aphis, or other expert, whose business it was to devour that particular part. “~Oliver Wendell Holmes

For questions about garden pests or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

Calling the Cut – Tree Triage, Care, and Removal

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By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab/UConn Home & Garden Education Center

The forecast is looking good for a perfect 4th of July weekend. Most folks will take advantage of the weather ahead to plan that perfect grilling menu for when their friends and family visit. This is a much-needed respite from the severe weather that passed through over the past few weeks. Severe winds and torrential rains hammered Connecticut and most of the rest of the Northeast after a recent heat wave. With the weather for the week ahead of us is looking much better than the weather of the week behind us, now is the perfect time to assess our trees and determine if any action needs to be taken before the next storm comes!

Tree with branches missing on one side.
Storm damage caused this tree to lose branches on one side. This lopsidedness increases risk to property below. Photo by H. Zidack

I’ll start and end this column with the advice that a professional arborist should be called-in if you are ever unsure of your tree’s health, or if you need support regarding safe management and potential removal. In Connecticut, one of the best resources for finding a licensed, local arborist as well as additional resources regarding tree care and maintenance can be found on the Connecticut Tree Protective Association website, ctpa.org. That said, tree triage can start with you at home. There are many things one can be on the lookout for to determine if a tree need professional attention, and potentially in what order the work should be done.

I’m sure you’ve heard this phrase used to describe real estate, but with trees too, location is everything. The first thing to consider when performing your tree triage is the location of the tree. Regardless of tree age, size, species, or health, the trees that should always merit our immediate attention are those in locations where they could pose a danger to life or property if a limb were to fall off or if the tree were to topple altogether. Trees within striking distance of homes, power lines, and important structures like chicken coops and pet houses should always be the first inspected before the storm comes and after it passes. If a tree knocks down a power line or hits a home, call for help. Never attempt to work around a live cable (one that still carries electricity) without the proper training and equipment.

The second thing to consider as you perform your tree triage is health of the tree. Trees weakened by disease or age are more likely to succumb to strong winds or topple after standing water weakens or kills roots. Inspect your trees for symptoms of stress and disease such as branches that no longer produce leaves. Depending on the species of tree, a few may not be much cause for concern, but if there are several branches on a tree that no longer produce new leaves or needles, the tree is likely not in great health. Another symptom of stress or disease is a visible canker, or large wound, on the trunk of the tree. Trees in good health will typically grow new tissue over an injury sustained by pruning, animal feeding, or a previous storm. Cankers that appear to be getting larger over a few years, rather than smaller, are often a cause for concern.

There are even some obvious signs of disease such as conk or shelf mushrooms that grow directly from the wood of the tree. While these organisms are important for nutrient cycling in natural ecosystems, they often indicate that a tree is approaching the end of its life. The shelf mushroom is only the sexual structure of the fungus, there to produce spores and reach new trees. While removing the mushroom may slow the spread of the fungus to other trees nearby, the majority of the “body” of the fungus will still exist within the tree, weakening it by breaking down woody tissue over time.

Trees, like other living things, do not live indefinitely and become more vulnerable to illness and stress as they age. Just like people need to take care of themselves to ensure they live a long, healthy life, so too must trees be cared for over the course of their lives to ensure they have the best possible outcome. Regular fertilization and pruning are essential to not only ensure that a tree grows robustly, but also that it does not become lopsided or heavy on one side as it ages. Even healthy trees can fall if they are never pruned and have a poor center of gravity! Pruning should be performed frequently to promote new growth, discourage lopsidedness, and allow increased airflow through the canopy. This will have the double benefit of decreasing disease pressure that often accompanies high canopy humidity and prolonged leaf wetness. Though it depends on the species of tree, most here in New England perform best when pruned while they are dormant in winter. Remember to not remove more than 1/3 of the tree’s branches when pruning, if possible!

There are other factors to consider when determining if a tree should come down that we don’t have space to discuss at length here, such as the species of tree, whether the tree is used for other purposes (such as part of a living fence), whether the tree has historic or personal significance, or what removal of the tree may mean for other plants nearby that depend on its shade. And, of course, nobody should consider tree removal without considering cost and time. If cost is a concern, remember to do your triage and prioritize the management of trees that could potentially damage your home, property, or power lines if they were to fall. These considerations and others are worth discussing with an arborist as they survey your property!

For questions about planting and pruning trees or other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Remove Those Suckers!

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

About now the gardens should be planted, and it is time to turn our attention to the trees and shrubs on the property. New growth is almost fully expanded and pruning of spring flowering shrubs can commence. When out there with your pruners, keep an eye peeled for suckers and water sprouts, both on the plants you’re pruning and other woody plants in the yard.

A pear tree with multiple suckers growing from the base. Photo by dmp2024

Many trees and shrubs produce vigorous, upright stems that can reach several feet high over the growing season if left unchecked. Those arising from the root system are known as suckers while those growths arising from the crown portion of a tree or large shrub are referred to as water sprouts. At the very least, they are unattractive and take away from the architectural framework of a plant. More importantly they use water, nutrients and energy that could be put to better use if not taken from the rest of the plant. If not removed, they can crowd out the main plant resulting in reduced vigor.

Some woody plants naturally tend to produce suckers and sometimes these young vigorous shoots are needed to rejuvenate older plants as aging stems are removed. An example would be shrubs like red-twigged dogwoods or lilacs. Suckers arising from trees such as apples, crabapples, honey locust, lindens and others, however, should be removed.

In the case of grafted plants, like hybrid tea roses or apples, the desired variety is grafted on to a rootstock that might be more cold hardy, have dwarfing genes or other desired features. Occasionally the rootstock revolts, so to speak, and sends up its own shoots. In the case of roses, one might notice a stem with red flowers when the plant was purchased as a named cultivar with different colored flowers.

Suckers and water sprouts often occur because plants are in some way stressed or due to damage to their root system. Plants can be under stress for a number of reasons. Some common reasons would be insect or disease problems, drought, too high of a water table, compacted soil and/or difficult growing conditions.

Planting too deep will also stress a plant and could cause suckers to develop. Whenever planting woody plants sink them so that the level of soil in the pot they are grown in is level with the soil they are planted in.

Another reason for suckers or water sprouts is that plants are pruned incorrectly or too drastically. Seldom is it advisable to remove more than one-third of the plant at one time. Also, avoid topping ornamental or woodland trees.

Ideally suckers and water sprouts should be removed as soon as they are produced. Often, they can just be rubbed or twisted off in spring as their stem is just starting to expand. Once they reach pencil-size in thickness, cut with clean, sharp pruners. Do your best to remove them flush to a limb or as close to the tree’s trunk or root system as you can. Don’t leave stubs as these will likely have buds at their base and just regrow.

Speaking of suckers, there are often questions when growing tomatoes about what to do with the sprouts popping up where the leaf attaches to the main stem. Typically suckers just form on indeterminate tomato varieties, which are those that continue to grow, bloom and set fruit as long as growing conditions allow.  If all suckers are left on the plant, it becomes quite unruly and hard to stake. Also, fruit will be plentiful but usually smaller.

Usually, the suckers below the first fruiting cluster are removed so the development of those tomatoes won’t be slowed. Then it is up to individual gardeners to decide whether to leave suckers or not and how many to leave. Often a few are left to increase and extend the harvest. Tomatoes in our area are prone to many leaf diseases, especially during humid and wet seasons. As the bottom leaves yellow and die, it is beneficial to let some of the suckers on top grow so plants can produce more foliage to yield food for the plant and to shade the developing fruit. Some experimentation might be necessary keeping in mind that it is better to remove too little than too much.

For questions about pruning suckers and water sprouts or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Tying Climbing Roses

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By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Climbing roses tied to a vinyl fence.
Photo by Marie Woodward

Climbing and rambling roses are a beautiful addition to any garden, adding height and depth to your outdoor space. These types of roses require proper training and tying to ensure that they grow in the desired direction, produce the most blooms and don’t become tangled or unruly.  Follow this guide on how to tie climbing and rambling roses to get the best results. 

Gloves, wire, hooks and pliers laid out on a table.
These tools are needed to train your climbing roses. Photo by Marie Woodward

For materials, one would need some twine or soft plant ties, a sharp pair of pruning shears, sturdy long-sleeved, thorn resistant garden gloves. Also, some wire and tools to secure to a trellis, fence or other structure may be necessary.

Climbing roses have two types of canes. Main canes are stems that originate from the base of the rose giving it its structure and support. They are also referred to as leaders. Lateral canes originate from the main cane. It is the lateral canes that produce the flowers and add volume to the shrub. In general, main canes are not pruned unless they are diseased or dead.

Before you start attaching the plant to a trellis, make sure that your rose is properly pruned. Removing any dead or diseased canes will encourage healthy growth. Cut back any wild or overly long shoots to create a manageable framework for tying. Starting with this step will allow for more control as you move through the process of tying.

Supportive wiring, better known as strain wires, helps to promote flowering. They hold the main canes at a 45–90-degree angle. These angles encourage lateral canes to flush and produce more abundant flowers.  

A rose cane tied to wire supports on a vinyl fence.
Attach your rose canes to strain wires with soft ties. Photo by Marie Woodward

If you're training your roses against a wall or fence, attach the horizontal strain wires to the structure, spacing them about 12-18 inches apart vertically and 5 feet apart horizontally.

 If you have a vinyl fence you can use vinyl safe hooks and secure the wire with a turnbuckle vertically, spacing them about two feet apart to avoid drilling holes in the vinyl material.

Using twine or soft plant ties, attach the rose canes to the support structure at regular intervals, starting about 1.5 feet from the ground. Tie them securely but not too tightly  You want to allow room for the canes to grow and expand. Avoid fishing lines or other rigid materials. Using the wrong ties or tying too tightly could lead to cane injury.

As the roses push new growth, continue to tie the new main canes to the support structure.  Continue to guide them in the desired direction, with those 45–90-degree angles as a guide.

Regularly check your roses and adjust the ties as needed.  Ensure that they remain secure but not too tight. Prune any wild or unruly shoots and remove any dead or diseased wood to keep your roses healthy and under control.

By following these steps and regularly maintaining your climbing rose, you’ll create a stunning vertical display that adds beauty and depth to your garden. While this guide provides good tips on for starting and maintaining younger climbing roses, older roses that have been neglected may need restorative measures. If you need more information on climbing roses or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu