Shrubs

Put in the Work Now for Lasting Garden Beauty 

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center 

If you’re planning to do some landscape renovations this summer, you will often hear the suggestion of doing certain tasks “until the plant is established.” If you’ve heard this phrase and wondered what the pros mean, you’re not alone. It’s crucial to understand that the first year of growth is one of the most critical to ensure the success of trees, shrubs and perennials in the landscape.  

The “establishment period” is when a newly transplanted plant pushes roots beyond the original root ball to anchor itself into the surrounding soil and adapt to its new environment. Establishment happens in as little as 2-4 weeks for your veggie starts and other annuals. However, if you are installing woody ornamentals or perennials, it is recommended to provide support for their first year in the landscape. Some species, especially fruiting plants may need longer attention to ensure establishment and landscape success. 

Keeping the plants properly hydrated is going to be your first line of defense in preventing transplant shock. Using sprinkler systems for supplemental water can be problematic for trees, shrubs and perennials. These systems, especially those designed for lawns, maintain moisture in the top 1-2 inches of soil. Our non-turf plants need much more.  Providing adequate water will help new plants acclimate by providing sufficient hydration, but it will also encourage the root system to expand. Roots pull moisture and nutrients from the soil but also act as an anchor to keep the plants upright. Keeping only the top few inches of soil moist will encourage roots to stay in that shallow layer instead of expanding deeper into the soil, hindering the development of that anchoring system. Additionally, watering demand tends to be more frequent with shallow root systems, as the first few inches of soil are more susceptible to drying out on sunny days. Lastly, the shallow roots need to compete with established turf for resources at a 1-2-inch depth. 

While in this establishment period, the standard watering recommendation is 1-2 inches per week, depending on the species of plant. An inch of water is equivalent to 0.62 gallons per square foot of garden area. Watering the plant at this rate encourages it to stretch its roots downward into the soil.  With deeper roots, plants can find moisture even during times of temporary drought deep below ground. This is a huge contribution to drought tolerance, as opposed to the common belief that the plant will just “live longer without water.”  

If the forecast does not predict an inch of rain within the week, gardeners should be out checking the soil for moisture a few inches down and providing supplemental water if necessary. Always check the soil before watering, especially if you are new to gardening. Squeeze the soil in your hand. If the soil particles stick together easily, it is likely that there is enough moisture. If soil clumps fall apart between your fingers or the texture is dusty, the soil is too dry and more water is needed. If you can squeeze water out of the soil like a sponge, there is too much moisture, and you should come back and check in a day or two. Overwatering can lead to root rot and other diseases and finding the balance is a fine-tuned skill developed over time.  

Monitor your new plantings for the first year and watch for signs of transplant shock, pests and disease so that you can adjust quickly and keep your plants healthy during this time. While transplant shock is a normal response to being planted in a new location, the symptoms can be startling to gardeners.  Remember that the UConn Home & Garden Education Center is here to help you determine if you are looking at transplant shock, disease, or possible pest damage. It’s easier to catch and treat issues earlier than it is to react at the end of the season. If you’re vigilant, we can help you find your way to solutions much more quickly! 

Staking should only be done as a temporary measure for young trees where the environment or the species of tree requires extra support. In most cases, trees should be perfectly capable of supporting themselves. Exposure to the elements, like the occasional strong breeze, can help to strengthen them as they adjust. However, temporary staking can help take some of the stress off the young trees if they are establishing in harsher environments. While there are many situations that may be appropriate, consider staking newly planted trees when they are in open areas, have high wind exposure, or are in an area that risks mechanical or physical damage. Staking may also be appropriate if the root ball is significantly smaller in relation to the tree’s size, or if the tree has a top-heavy canopy. 

Once your plants are well anchored into your landscape, they will be able to find water and nutrients on their own while standing tall in the face of our New England climate. Putting in the attention and care to help plants establish in their first year or two in the landscape will reward you with many years of enjoyment to come.  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

 

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant June 7, 2025

The Challenges of Boxwood: Pests, Diseases, and Alternatives

By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Boxwood, a classic choice for formal gardens and hedges, has faced increasing threats in recent years. As gardeners grapple with these challenges, it is crucial to understand the issues at hand and explore alternative plants for our landscapes.

Boxwood Blight is an aggressive fungal disease that affects various Boxwood species and causes rapid defoliation and potential plant death. First identified in the United Kingdom in the mid-1990s, this disease has since spread across North America. Early symptoms include stem cankers, sunken lesions, and eventual dieback. To mitigate the risk of Boxwood Blight, choose resistant cultivars, practice good garden hygiene, and monitor your plants for early signs of infection.

The Box Tree Moth is an invasive pest native to Asia that feeds on Boxwood plants. Since its arrival in North America, this moth has wreaked havoc on Boxwood populations, leading to defoliation and plant stress. Symptoms of infestation include see-through plants, "stick shrubs," and stem cankers. Regular monitoring and integrated pest management strategies are essential for controlling this destructive insect.

As Boxwood plants continue to face challenges from pests and diseases, it is wise to consider alternative options for our gardens. Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) is a versatile, broadleaf evergreen that can be shaped into hedges or topiaries. Its small, glossy leaves provide a neat appearance, and its adaptability to various soil types and sun exposure makes it a low-maintenance choice.

Row of Gem Box Ilex shrubs for sale
Gem Box Ilex is one of many fantastic substitutes for Boxwood shrubs. Photo by H. Zidack

Euonymus japonicus (Japanese Euonymus), an evergreen shrub with small, glossy leaves and tolerance for a range of growing conditions is another possible substitution. Its compact growth habit and easy maintenance make it an excellent choice for hedges or screens.

Ilex glabra (Inkberry), is a slow-growing evergreen native to North America, featuring dark green leaves and red berries in the fall. Its low, spreading habit makes it ideal for low hedges or mass plantings.

Privets (Ligustrum), are fast-growing, low-maintenance evergreen shrubs with small, glossy leaves. They can be used for hedges, screens, or as stand-alone specimens. However, keep in mind that three cultivars, border privet, (Ligustrum obtusifolium Sieb. & Zucc), California privet, (Ligustrum ovalifolium Hassk.) and European privet (Ligustrum vulgare L.) are listed on UConn’s invasive plant databaseIf you decide to plant privets, look for seedless cultivars such as Golden Ticket privet (Ligustrum x vicaryi "KCLX1") at your local nursery.  

The Boxwood Blight and Box Tree Moth present ongoing challenges for gardeners and landscapers. By understanding these threats and adopting appropriate management strategies, we can mitigate the damage they cause. Additionally, exploring alternative plants can help create more resilient and sustainable gardens in the face of these challenges. With careful planning and thoughtful plant selection, our landscapes can continue to thrive in the face of adversity.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For questions about your boxwoods or other gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 22, 2025
It was been updated from its original publishing on Feb. 27, 2025

Berry Good Pick for Winter Interest

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Winterberry shrub with no leaves and bright red berries.
Winterberry shows winter interest with no leaves and bright red berries. Photo by dmp2024

Looking for a splash of color in your yard amid winter’s dreary landscape? Check out one or more of the many winterberry (Ilex verticillata) cultivars. This deciduous member of the holly family sports bright, shiny red berries from early fall through late winter. Branches may be cut and used in holiday arrangements.

Winterberry can be found growing throughout eastern North America from Canada down along the east coast and west to Texas. Look for the brilliant red berries when driving past marshy areas in particular. While winterberry will grow in well-drained soil, it is a great candidate for areas that stay moist and aren’t particularly well drained. These plants naturally occur in forested wetlands as well as along the banks of streams, ponds or other water sources.

There are several factors to consider when selecting a winterberry bush for your yard. One of the most important is the mature size of the plant. Cultivars are available that vary from dwarf, 4-foot, compact plants to 15-foot, more rangy specimens. ‘Red Sprite’ and ‘Berry Poppins’ are two red-berried, compact cultivars. ‘Winter Red’ and ‘Sparkleberry’ typically top 10 feet. Check out suggested cultivars for Connecticut with the UConn Plant Database (https://plantdatabase.uconn.edu/). While initially slow growing, winterberries may eventually form clumps through suckering and depending on the cultivars, may form dense stands if allowed.

The berries on most cultivars are a brilliant red. There are, however, some that have gold or orange fruits. ‘Goldfinch’ boasts golden yellow berries while both ‘Aurantiaca’ and ‘Afterglow’ offer delightful orangey fruit.

Do realize that plants are dioecious, meaning that individual plants may be male or female. Only the female plants produce berries. The male plants supply the pollen to fertilize the female’s flowers so that berries are produced. One male plant can fertilize at least 10 females if located within 50 feet or closer. Look at tags so a compatible male cultivar is chosen. Appropriate pollinators should be listed on nursery tags.

Unless plants are in bloom or have berries, it is not possible to tell males from females, but they should be marked on their tags at the nursery. When in bloom, the female flowers have tiny green immature berries in the center while the males have fluffy, yellow, pollen-bearing anthers. Occasionally the female flowers have non-pollen bearing anthers, probably effective is luring pollinators to fertilize their flowers. Although not common in Connecticut, one native species of cellophane bee, Colletes banksi, is a specialized pollinator of winterberry.

Winterberry with full berry display.
Photo by dmp2024

Winterberries do best in full sun to partial shade. The shadier the site they are grown in, the fewer blossoms and berries they will produce. Being native New Englanders, they prefer acidic soils rich in organic matter. If your soil pH is between 5 to 6.5, plants should happily grow. Once plants are established, only minimal fertilization is usually required. For the first few years, about a cup of a complete organic or synthetic fertilizer could be lightly worked into the soil surrounding the plant each spring.

Plants can be used in foundation plantings, as a hedge, in rain gardens and when setting up areas attractive to wildlife. Not only are pollinators attracted to the flowers but over 48 species of birds feed on the berries, typically after they soften following periods of freezing and thawing.

Pruning can be tricky and is best kept to a minimum so selecting the right sized cultivar for your particular site is crucial. Winterberries have an upright growth habit but may sucker. They bloom on old wood meaning the flower buds that open in the spring were formed last fall. If grown as a multi-stemmed shrub, a few stems can be removed if plants seem crowded.

Complaints about little or no berry production may be due to lack of a male pollinator, too much shade, young plants that have not established a good root system, improper pruning or excessively dry conditions. In general, winterberries are rewarding, easy to grow shrubs that make quite the impact when little else in the landscape stands out.

For questions about selecting or growing winterberries or for other gardening queries, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

 

 

Fall is a Fabulous Time to Plant!

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Evergreens for sale at a nursery
Photo by H. Zidack

There’s no doubt that spring planting is exciting. The instant gratification that comes with putting in our new gardens and seeing flowers and greenery right away is unmatched.  Late season planting is a different animal altogether. There’s a slower pace, less pressure for perfection, and a promise of beauty next season – leaving us the chance to take up other projects in the spring.

Many gardeners will start planting hardy bulbs this fall, but you can do so much more! Planting trees, shrubs, and perennials in the late summer/early fall provides enough time for plants to get established without the heat and drought stresses of summer. New plants installed in the fall have enough time to develop healthy roots and settle in before winter. Allow at least 6 weeks (about 1 and a half months) before the first hard frost to ensure strong establishment. It’s less stressful for plants, but also easier for gardeners to plant, water, and support our gardens when the weather is a bit cooler.

Your fall planted perennials, trees and shrubs will also flower “on time” next spring. Whether you've noticed it or not, flowering plants that we buy during the growing season are sometimes manipulated to bloom when you see them on the shelf. And while most plants will settle into their natural flowering cycle after their first year, planting in the fall ensures that you are starting the season with a bed that will bloom as nature intended.

Watering a shrub after planting
Photo by dmp2024

Keep a keen eye out for garden centers that may be trying to sell down their stock, so they don’t have to keep it during the winter. Plants may look a little more weathered, and past their prime. But don’t fret! If you shop smart, you can find some great plants for fantastic prices.

Shop for plants that have a nice form and strong root ball. Avoid plants that have apparent injury to trunks or branches. Old insect feeding damage, off colored leaves, or some drought damage may be recoverable. Remember that perennials will be cut back before their next flush, and deciduous shrubs will drop leaves and need pruning regardless of what they may look like right now. Never buy a plant that seems to have issues that you cannot identify, regardless of the bargain. If there are plants that you want that are unavailable, leave space for them to be planted next season.

The lower stress environmental conditions also make it a suitable time to transplant or divide plants that bloom in the spring or summer. When digging plants for transplanting, make sure to dig wide and deep to get as much of the root ball as possible. Division is a common practice with perennials and is as simple as driving a shovel through the center of the plant and digging out half of it to put somewhere else. Larger plants can be divided multiple times.

While it may seem like a promising idea to help push your plants along with some robust growth, fertilizing is not recommended in the fall. Pushing tender growth too close to chilly weather can leave the plant vulnerable to environmental damage, loss of shoots, and possibly even loss of flowers next season. Maintain them with adequate watering and supportive care. Provide good sanitation by removing and disposing of any questionable leaves that fall in your space, especially those from newly installed plants.

Planting in the fall and supporting your fall garden will help you lay a foundation for a successful spring.

If you have questions on fall gardening or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.