Author: Zidack, Heather

The Fall Invasion of the Asian Lady Beetle

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By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

multi-colored Asian ladybeetle on a flower

As the leaves change color and the weather turns colder, many people look forward to the beauty and coziness of autumn. However, one uninvited guest often accompanies the season: the Asian lady beetle. This insect, scientifically known as Harmonia axyridis, can be a nuisance to homeowners as it seeks shelter in warm buildings during the fall months.

The Asian lady beetle is native to eastern Asia but was introduced to the United States and other parts of the world in the early 20th century as a biological control agent for aphids and other pests. While they are highly effective at controlling these pests in the gardens and crops, their rapid spread and tendency to congregate in large numbers have caused problems for homeowners.

These beetles are easily recognizable by their orange to reddish-brown coloration, small black spots on their wing covers, and distinctive M-shaped marking behind their head. Their size ranges from 5-8mm in length. They have six short legs and two antennae.

During the fall, the Asian lady beetle seeks protected locations to spend the winter. They gather in large groups, often on the sunny side of buildings, before ultimately finding their way into homes and other structures through cracks and gaps. It is not uncommon to find them gathered in attics, wall voids, or other quiet, undisturbed areas.

Once inside, these beetles can become a nuisance due to their sheer numbers and tendency to release a yellowish, foul-smelling liquid when disturbed. This liquid can stain walls, fabrics, and other surfaces, and may cause allergic reactions in some individuals. Additionally, some people find the beetles’ scent unpleasant or even nauseating.

Prevention is key to avoiding an Asian lady beetle infestation. Sealing entry points, such as cracks around windows, doors and utility openings, can significantly reduce the likelihood of an invasion. Additionally, keeping exterior lights off at night and planting trees or shrubs away from the house can reduce the attractiveness of your home to these insects.

If beetles have already found their way inside, using a vacuum cleaner is the best means of removal. However, be sure to dispose of the vacuum bag or empty the canister outdoors immediately to prevent the beetles from returning back into your home. Alternatively, insect light traps or sticky traps can help capture and remove beetles.

It’s essential to remember that while the Asian lady beetle can be a nuisance, it is not a significant threat to your home or your health. Taking proactive measures to prevent their entry and managing their presence can significantly reduce the annoyance caused by these uninvited guests.

As the fall season arrives, keep in mind the potential for Asian lady beetles to seek shelter in your home. By understanding their behavior and implementing preventive measures, you can enjoy the beauty and warmth of autumn without the invasion of these pesky insects.

If you have questions about Asian lady beetles or other gardening topics, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr,uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Do You Dig Dahlias?

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dahlias in a bed at Enders island
Dahlias at Enders Island. Photo by dmp2024

A couple of weeks ago, I was fortunate to visit the spectacular dahlia gardens on Enders Island in Mystic. For those unfamiliar with this retreat, an 11-acre seaside estate was donated to the Society Edmund by Mrs. Alys E. Enders in 1954. This Roman Catholic religious community offers ministry, retreats and respite to many. The grounds are open to all for contemplation or just unbound appreciation of nature and horticultural beauty.

Gardeners will delight in the gorgeous, well laid out garden rooms but especially be entranced by the vast array of dahlias. The gardens at Enders Island are filled with over 300 varieties of prize-winning dahlias in all colors (except blue), shapes and sizes imaginable. A Dahlia Preservation Trust was established to preserve the dahlia collection that is rated as one of the largest in New England.

Any of us growing dahlias while appreciating their cheery, attractive blossoms lasting long into the fall, do realize they are not winter hardy, even with milder winters attributed to climate change.  Dahlias are native to Central America. In fact, they are Mexico’s national flower. Those wishing to save the tuberous roots for replanting next year, must dig them up and store them over the winter.

Ideally, gardeners should wait until a frost blackens the foliage. Then, if possible, wait a week so any carbohydrates left in the above ground tissue can make their way to the roots to enable good sprouting next spring when the tuberous roots are replanted. This has been a particularly confusing fall to both plants and gardeners. Frosts have hit some areas but often not severe enough to affect all plants and dahlias in more protected sites are still blooming their heads off, a trait most appreciated by pollinators such as bees.

On the other hand, it is November. Time to reign in gardening activities and begin preparations for the holidays. What’s a gardener to do?

Since my plants were losing bottom leaves to disease and looking a little ragged, I just decided it was time to dig them and move the tuberous roots into the cellar. Before digging any dahlias, be sure to note their names. If tags were not written out when planting, make them out now if color and flower type are important.

Cut back stems to 2 or 3 inches and carefully dig the tubers starting at least 8 inches away from crowns so tubers do not get sliced or speared. Use a spade or pitchfork but dig in carefully. This year the soil is so dry that it was not necessary to leave the tuberous roots in the sun for a few hours so the soil clinging to them could dry and be shaken off. Every one I dug up was dry enough so that practically no soil clung to the roots. Each was placed in a separate container with repurposed labels.

Dahlia tubers with a white tag
Dahlia tubers tagged for storage. Photo by dmp2024

Perusing through online sources, many suggest washing tubers off with a hose and letting them dry before storing. I have let them dry out in wet falls and shaken dried soil from them before storing but have never hosed them off. Maybe follow the approach that makes most sense to you. If any remaining soil is washed off, the tuberous roots should most likely be stored in lightly moistened peat moss or other slightly damp organic material, so they will not desiccate over the winter. For me, leaving a bit of soil around the roots that are stored in pots in the cellar over winter helps to keep tubers from shriveling with only a sparse sprinkle of water once or twice a month.

When happy, dahlias will multiply but it is probably best to leave the whole clump together and separate it before planting next spring when multiple buds or eyes can be seen. Keep the tuberous roots at 45 to 55 degrees F and check every 2 to 3 weeks for signs of decay or desiccation.

For an early start, the tuberous roots can be set into beds usually by late April unless unseasonably cold weather is predicted. If you have questions about overwintering dahlias or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Drought, Putting your Garden to Bed, Holiday Decorating & Other November News

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November is for Autumn Drought Woes, Putting Your Vegetable Garden to Bed, and Deocrating for the Holidays with Materials from your Garden

"In November, the earth is growing quiet. It is making its bed, a winter bed for flowers and small creatures." 

-Cynthia Rylant

Autumn Drought Woes

A sloped yard showing signs of drought stress.
Drought stress on a sloped lawn. Photo by Pamm Cooper

If you live in Connecticut, you're no stranger to the fact that we've had a very dry August, September and October. Enough so that these drought conditions have started to adversely affect plants in our gardens. Keep these tips in mind to help your plants become resilient in these adverse conditions.
  • Maintain consistent watering practices until the ground freezes, especially in newly established plantings and young trees and shrubs
  • Avoid unnecessary pruning or trimming during drought conditions
  • Mulching can help conserve moisture in the soil

Many of us were spoiled by the heavy spring/early summer rains and did not get into the practice of watering consistently during the growing season. Our plants will start to show signs of stress now, and potentially in the next growing season. Learn what to monitor for and how to correct course this fall to help your plants have a better spring! 

Helping Plants During the September-October Drought

Putting your Vegetable Garden to Bed

Garden in Autumn
Vetegable gardens need cleanup once killing frosts have come.  Photo by H. Zidack

Part of fall clean-up in the yard is winterizing your vegetable garden.  Here are a few things you can do to put your vegetable gardens to bed and prepare them for the next growing season: 

  • Harvest everything.  Store only mature fruits and vegetables and compost those that are rotting.  Be sure to throw away infected vegetables and fruit.  
  • Remove all plant debris and only compost those that are free of pests or diseases.  Throw away any that are.
  • Have a soil test done now and amend if needed so the beds are ready for the next growing season.

Learn More about Putting Your Garden to Bed

Decorate for the Holidays with Materials from Your Garden

Thanksgiving celebrates the autumn harvest, and dinner tables are often decorated with centerpieces of dried flowers, seed heads, grass plumes  and ornamental branches. The winter holidays also have a long standing history of using evergreens, pinecones and berries to decorate homes.

Gardeners who practice this regularly may have established plants to harvest their decorations from. Those just starting out may not have everything they want/need. Here's a few tips to help you gather material to create your own holiday decorations:

  • Never remove something from property other than your own without permission
  • Take plant material from healthy plants. Clean pruners in between plants to avoid spreading diseases between plants
  • Inspect plant material for insects before bringing it into your home
  • Make sure you are able to accurately identify any plant material you bring into your home. This will help you prevent accidental exposure to irritants, allergens or toxic plants
  • Florists, craft stores, and even some farmers markets are a great source for pre-dried plant material
  • Looking for evergreens to make your own wreaths or window boxes? Florists, Christmas Tree Farms, and even Garden Centers may carry bulk greens in late November/Early December for decorating.
    • If you already get your yearly "cut your own" Christmas tree, consider finding a slightly taller tree anduse the trimmings to create your door swags, wreaths, etc. 

Fall Cleanup Provides an Opportunity for Dazzling Dried Bouquets

DIY Dried Flowers for Thanksgiving

Holiday Decorating with Fresh Greenery

Dried Lavender in a vase

Dried lavender stems make a lovely, simple autumn display. 
  Photo by Nick Goltz

Holiday planter stuffed with stems of evergreen and both natural and artificial accents.

Holiday planter stuffed with stems of evergreen and both natural and artificial accents.
Photo by H. Zidack

Native Plant Highlight: Rhus aromatica

Rhus aromatica in a parking lot island

The Rhus aromatica 'Gro-low' fragrant sumac is a cultivar of R. Aromatica, which is native to North America from eastern Canada to Mexico. It is a good low- growing shrub to use as a groundcover in sites like slopes or when there is no supplemental watering.

They need well-drained soils and can grow in full sun or part shade. The small flowers attract pollinators, fruits attract songbirds, and leaves turn a striking orange in the fall. These plants are drought tolerant and resistant to rabbit feeding.

Learn More About Rhus aromatica

Wildlife Highlight: Dunlins

Dunlins

Dunlins are found in large flocks along our shoreline in winter. Plumage in winter is less attractive than breeding plumage. They have a long, downcurved black bill, black feet and legs and have a white stripe along the upper side length of the wings that can be seen when they are flying. They forage for invertebrates in exposed mud and sands sand during low tides.

Learn More About Dunlins

 

 

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology (WiSE) is a brand-new UConn student chapter of the national Ecological Society of America Women in Soil Ecology section. Their goal is to bring the world of soil ecology and soil science to home gardeners across Connecticut. In each of our Home & Garden Newsletters, they'll be sharing research-based facts and recommendations for ways to improve your garden, learn about best practices, and more, all from soil ecology and soil science perspectives. 
Keep an eye on this section for great information and tips!

Novemberr 2024 Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about the month of November!

November Precipitation Outlook (NOAA)November Temperature Outlook (NOAA)

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

    A late Thanksgiving this year will give us a shortened holiday season for shopping and festivities. Start early to get the most of your experience!

    • Glow Hartford opens November 29th this year! Enjoy an indoor light display and vendor fair.

        Educational Opportunities & Workshops

              • Eco-Holiday - Nov. 29 - Dec. 22, Derby CT. Decorators transform recyclable and throwaway materials into masterpieces representing eight biomes ranging from rain forest to desert. 

              UConn Educational Events

              Student & A horse before a riding lesson
              Charlotte and Grady on their way to a riding lesson. 

              The University of Connecticut's Animal Science Department offers a winter horseback riding program to the public with something for everyone!

              Dressage, Hunt Seat, Polo and Western are open to adults and children who meet the minimum age and skill level requirements.

              UConn Winter Riding Lessons

               

              November Gardening Tips

                      • With the weather we've been having, it's still a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!

                      • Purchase some paperwhite bulbs and follow the directions for forcing bulbs so that they bloom for the holiday season
                      • Mulch garlic plantings to prevent frost heaving
                      • Finish the cleanup of the vegetable garden or beds, removing all plant debris
                      • Asian lady beetles and Brown marmorated stink bugs may enter the home to overwinter. Use weather stripping or caulking to keep them out.
                      • Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.
                      • Continue to thoroughly water trees, shrubs, planting beds, lawn areas and recently planted evergreens until a hard frost. Plants should go into the winter well-watered. 
                      • It is not a good idea to leave fuel in the lawn mower or other gas-powered tools over winter. If there is some gasoline left, run the mower until it is used up.
                      • Be sure to drain hoses and sprayers before cold weather sets in.
                      • Cut back perennials that were covered in powdery mildew during the summer. Cut stalks to the ground and dispose of them.
                      • Leave seed heads on ornamental grasses for winter interest.

                      Happy Thanksgiving!

                      We want to wish you a Happy Thanksgiving and a spectacular kickoff to your holiday season! Check out the resources below to learn about the history of the first Thanksgiving, helpful tips to save money, and ways to ensure food safety for your holiday meals!

                      This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                      Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

                       

                      Helping Plants During the September-October Drought

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                      By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      A sloped yard showing signs of drought stress.
                      Drought stress on a sloped lawn. Photo by Pamm Cooper

                      Here at the UConn Home and Garden Center we have been getting questions about lawn and garden issues that have been particularly widespread in the state. Whether in the landscape or the garden, there is always something going on, good or bad, and keeping up with pests or cultural issues can be challenging. Because of the extended late season drought conditions this year, plants may be showing signs of stress. There are some basic things homeowners can do to help plants go into winter as healthy as possible.

                      Plants in temperate climates, like we have in New England, are normally manufacturing food to enable carbohydrate storage for new growth that will occur next spring. To do this, plants need both sunlight and water, and our extended drought conditions have limited most plants to enter survival mode, and carb storage is a second priority. The best way to help your plants is to water deeply any that still have green leaves. People with wells may need to determine if this is a priority for them. We can hope for a warm winter or insulating snow cover to help any plants with shallow roots survive until warm weather returns.

                      Drought stress on dogwood leaves
                      Drought stress on dogwood leaves. Photo by John Ruter

                      One sign of drought stress in woody broadleaf plants is leaf edges that curl upward. This is a good clue as to the beginning of water stress. Make sure to water these plants deeply, to ensure roots will be able to pick up the water. Usually the next day, leaves will start to uncurl if adequate water is applied. If drought stress continues, leaves may turn brown at the edges and early leaf drop may occur.

                      Evergreens, even established ones, can benefit from regular watering as long as the soil is not frozen and drought conditions remain. Evergreen foliage, whether needles or leaves, photosynthesize all year, and it is important that soil is not dry. Normally, we have snow that melts on and off, and if soils are not frozen, roots will be able to take up water and photosynthesis can still take place.

                      Perennials of certain species may be doing fine in this drought. Yarrows, some ox-eyed daisy cultivars, obedient plants, goldenrods, mountain mints and Agastache may be showing no signs of stress. Still, if any have green leaves at this point, consider watering them if dry and warm conditions continue.

                      This weekend I planted a small shrub, and I had to dig about fourteen inches down to accommodate the root mass. I have to say that I was surprised that the soil, not particularly one that dries out often, was powdery to the bottom of the hole. If you are planting anything now, make sure to water the soil thoroughly as you fill in the area around the roots, then water again when done. This is especially needed for small trees and shrubs but do the same for perennials.

                      Next year, woody plants that were impacted by drought this year may be more susceptible to certain diseases like verticillium wilt, Nectria canker and evergreens to Rhizosphaera needlecast. Be vigilant and scout for any signs or symptoms of these diseases.

                      Lawns that did not receive any rainfall or supplemental watering during the past two months may be dormant and crunchy at this time. It may not be clear if the grass will recover when temperatures cool and adequate water is applied. Some grass species may be dead, but it may not be clear until next spring when they fail to green up. There still may be time to apply supplemental irrigation, and with warm temperatures, grass may or may not green up, but at least the crowns may be kept alive to generate new leaves next spring. If any lawn areas were seeded in late summer, water new grass as needed. If it is wilting, water it for sure.

                      Be alert to what is happening in your own backyard, for the sooner you discover any problems the better. Contact us at the University of Connecticut Home and Garden Education Center for advice on lawns, landscapes, and other gardening subjects. Here's hoping for some needed rainfall and cooler temperatures to help our plants recover from the trying drought of 2024.

                      Penn State Extension has a good article on long-term effects of drought stress- https://extension.psu.edu/the-long-term-impact-of-drought-on-trees-and-shrubs

                      If you have questions about caring for plants during a drought, or if you have other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                      Gorgeous Grasses

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                      By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Autumn shines a spotlight on ornamental grasses. With their rustling blades and fluffy seedheads they are star performers in late season gardens going head-to-head with asters, mums, Montauk daisies and boltonias. Plus, they are great in fresh or dried cut flower arrangements.

                      The huge selection of grass species available is great for gardens but makes selecting difficult. Heights range from a few inches to more than 6 feet; colors from deep green to chartreuse, burgundy to black. Solid or variegated?  Would a clump former, spreader, or self-seeder best fit your needs? Are seed heads important for fall and winter interest? Is this grass planted as an ornamental feature in your garden bed or landscape or are you looking for natives to support pollinators and perhaps serve as food for birds and others? Answers to these questions may guide you in grass selection.

                      Two favorite non-natives grown for their ornamental value are cultivars of Miscanthus and Pennisetum. While the miscanthus species has been listed as potentially invasive in CT, a number of attractive cultivars are available for purchase and can be striking if well positioned in the garden. Two outstanding selections are ‘Gracillimus’ and ‘Zebrinus’. The first has shimmering silver veined green leaves growing in graceful mounds. Reddish flower plumes emerge in fall changing to a light silvery hue. Plants are clump formers but can reach 6 feet or more in height.

                      ‘Zebrinus’ is more commonly known as zebra grass for its definitive yellow and dark green striped foliage. This plant gets big over time. Mine is now 6 feet across and probably 10 feet high. I wrap a rope around it in the late summer to keep it upright through fall rains and winds. Stalks have been used quite effectively as a substitute for cornstalks around the lamppost.

                      Pennisetum alopecuroides
                      Pennisetum alopecuroides. Photo by dmp2024

                      My Pennisetum alopecuroides was grown from seed probably 20 years ago. These plants are absolutely gorgeous in the fall. Despite the many bottlebrush seed heads, I’ve never found a seedling. The fine, arching foliage resemble flowing water hence the common name, fountain grass. Cultivars of this graceful, flowing grass range from 18 inch ‘Piglet’ to 5 foot ‘Fox Trot’.

                      Native grasses are soaring in popularity and much easier to find at garden centers than they used to be. One switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) cultivar, ‘Heavy Metal’, is quite popular for its upright, striking blue-green foliage. If happy, it can reach 4 to 5 feet in height. The wheat-colored seed plumes are attractive to us during the gloomy winter months but also as a food source to a number of bird species.

                      Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a favorite also of humans and wildlife, including both birds and butterflies. This upright native grass is pretty ubiquitous along roadsides and in fields and meadows. New growth begins a clean blue green but, by the end of the growing season shifts to deep bronze and chestnut hues. This is a tough plant content in sandy soils and reaching about 2 feet in height. The silvery seed tuffs are retained for most of the winter. Little bluestem combines well with a number of perennial wildlings like rudbeckia, pearly everlasting, goldenrod and species of asters.

                      Chasmanthum latifolium
                      Chasmanthum latifolium. Photo by dmp2024

                      Also commonly found along roadsides, purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) grows on sites from full sun to part shade. This is a very well-behaved grass in the Poa (bluegrass) family. It is native to eastern and central U.S. and produces those airy pink seedheads you might admire as you drive.

                      Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) has very distinctive, but attractive seedheads. Native to the eastern and southern parts of the U.S., it is hardy from zone 5 to 8. Northern sea oats is a clump former with showy panicles of flowers in late summer that mature into wide, drooping seedheads. This grass likes moist but well-drained soils and is a larval plant for several species of butterflies as well as serving as a food source for several mammal and bird species.

                      Other native grasses worth investigating include side oats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula), big bluestem (Andropogon geradii) and prairie dropseed (Sporabolus heterolepsis). Check out both native and exotic ornamental grass offerings for their varied textures, colors, forms and flowers.

                      For more information on growing ornamental grasses or selection or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                      I Want My Mum: A Fall Classic Through the Ages

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                      By Abigayle Ward, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture Graduate Student

                      A group of fall flowers mixed with mums in a container.
                      Orange, purple, and white mums used as “filler” in a potted arrangement at Wickham Park in Manchester, CT. Photo by Abigayle Ward.

                      With the arrival of fall, one popular bloom brings the brilliant colors of forest foliage to our doorstep: With flower colors coming in purple, red, orange, yellow, and more, chrysanthemums, or more simply, mums, have been a favorite for centuries. First domesticated in China over 3,000 years ago, mum roots, seedlings, and flower pedals were used as herbal remedies in traditional Chinese medicine.

                      For nearly 2,000 years, mums have been the symbol of fall in Chinese culture: The Double Ninth Festival, celebrated on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, celebrates harvest, ancestors, and the beauty of autumn, with mums taking center stage as both decorations, accessories, and a floral wine.

                      First introduced to Europeans in the 1600s, mums quickly became a fall favorite. By the mid-1800s, the Victorians had written extensive literature on the interpretation and meaning of the color of each bloom. While some colors have carried the same meaning for thousands of years – such as white blooms symbolizing mourning – others took on entirely different meanings. While in China, a red mum represents fortune and luck, a Victorian would interpret this as a declaration of love.

                      Luckily, it seems many home gardeners in the United States nowadays are more concerned with the aesthetic appeal of their blooms than the meanings, so major misunderstandings are avoided. With several thousand cultivars available, mums come in many color combinations and growth habits. The National Chrysanthemum Society of the USA recognizes 13 different flower classes, ranging from 6-inch diameter flower balls with many layers of florets to smaller, 2-inch diameter flowers with only a single layer of a few petals. Some mums bloom early, in August, while others will bloom in October.

                      A row of potted mums for sale on a bench
                      Mums can be found for sale at garden centers starting in late summer. Photo by dmp2024

                      Further, some mums are annuals regardless of USDA hardiness zone, while others are perennials in zones 5-9. While so-called “florist mums” or “pot mums” are generally grown as annuals and will not survive winter frost, “garden mums” can survive winter frost if planted early enough in the growing season. If you wish to purchase a garden mum, but the mums are unmarked, a good way to tell the difference between florist and garden mums is to check for stolons near the base of the plant. Stolons, also known as “runners”, are shoots that grow out from the base of the mother plant. A daughter plant may have roots growing from the end of a stolon. If you want to purchase a perennial mum, check around the base of the stem for stolons – they will most likely be quite short but are a good sign that the plants may overwinter successfully. Alternatively, if you want to be sure you grow a permanent mum installation that comes back year-after-year, you can start some varieties of hardy garden mums from seed in late winter prior to planting out in spring. Get any mums you want to try overwintering in the ground as soon as possible. You can plant mums next year in spring or summertime to give them plenty of sunny weather to grow hearty root systems prior to the first winter frost of 2025. Mulch around your fall planted mums to help insulate their roots from frost.

                      Both annual and perennial mums benefit from at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. In Connecticut, a sunny spot to the south of your home would be ideal. Water mums thoroughly once the topsoil is dry but try not to wet the leaves or the flowers. Water left on the leaves or flowers can make mums prone to fungal diseases, which can make them unsightly or even kill them in severe cases. Towards the end of the season, especially between October and November, consider leaving the blooms on as long as possible to allow late-season pollinators to collect nectar.

                      Whether planted in a permanent flower garden or kept in a pot on the porch for fall, mums are an excellent addition of rich fall colors to any home gardener’s flower collection. Consider picking some up this season at your local garden center or plan on purchasing plants or seeds next year.

                      If you have a question on caring for your mums or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                      Coax Bulbs into Bloom for Late Winter Color

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                      By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Tulip bulbs on display in the store
                      Photo by dmp2024

                      Autumn adorns us with vibrant leaves, whispering grasses, warm colorful mums, colorful cucurbits and sun-bleached cornstalks. Time spent cleaning up the gardens and yard now will be appreciated come spring. A favorite fall task is selecting and planting bulbs for spring color, accent and scent. When doing so, purchase a few extras to force into bloom.

                      The word, forcing, is rather harsh. I’d like to think of it more as coaxing or gentle persuasion. What we’re really doing is subjecting the potted bulbs to a shorter simulated winter so they will burst forth into bloom weeks earlier than if planted in our gardens.

                      Many species of bulbs can be forced. Hyacinths, tulips and daffodils are most popular. When visiting your local garden center to purchase bulbs, look for varieties that say ‘Good for Forcing’. Most hyacinths force well. Tulips and daffodils range greatly in size and bloom time. Usually the smaller, earlier, shorter varieties can be brought into early bloom most successfully.

                      Minor bulbs such as crocuses, snowdrops, scilla, Siberian squills, chionodoxa, netted iris and wood hyacinths are also great choices for forcing. As a general rule of thumb, these smaller bulbs need a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks of chilling versus the 12 to 14 weeks the larger bulbs may require.

                      Select pots with adequate drainage. Typically, 6-to-8-inch bulb pans or azalea pots are used. This type of pot is wider than deep. Look at the size of your bulbs first as one generally wants pots twice as deep as the height of the bulbs. Realistically any size pot could be used as long as it has adequate drainage.

                      Use a soilless, commercial potting media and moisten it with warm water so that it is damp but not saturated before potting up your bulbs. For a 6-inch bulb pan, plan on fitting in 3 hyacinths, 3 to 5 daffodils or 5 to 7 tulips, depending on the size of the bulb, or 10 to 12 minor bulbs. Yes they will be a bit crowded but it’s only temporary and they will give you a better show.

                      Fill the pot about halfway or so with the potting mix and set in the bulbs so that the minor bulbs will be slightly below the soil line but the larger bulbs have their noses sticking out of it. Give the pots a good watering but let them drain so no water is running out.

                      Then place them in a dark place with temperatures ranging from 33 to about 34 degrees F. Often a shed or unheated garage works well. Some folks may have a cold section of cellar, perhaps in the bulkhead. I find that placing them in an old aluminum trash can in the garden shed works well as mice can’t get in the can to nibble on them. Others have dug trenches in the garden in which the pots are placed and covered with leaves. Apartment dwellers could place the pots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator if room permits.

                      Pots should be checked every 2 to 3 weeks to see if watering is necessary and to check for root growth. Bulbs will be ready to move inside once white roots are evidenced through drainage holes and shoots begin to emerge from the bulbs. When these two growth signs are noticed, pots can be brought into bright, indirect light when the temperatures stay from 50 to 60 degrees F. It usually takes 3 to 4 weeks from when bulbs are brought inside until when they bloom.

                      Hyacinths forced indoors
                      Photo by dmp2024

                      At this time, they would appreciate a light fertilizer application. A typical houseplant fertilizer at rates listed on the package would suffice. Turn the pots regularly so the plants do not lean towards the light. Once you see the flower stalks form, the bulbs can be brought into warmer temperatures where their blossoms can be enjoyed. Keep in mind that the higher the temperature, the quicker blossoms will both open and fade. If possible, keep them cool or at least move the pots into cooler areas at night.

                      In some cases, the bulbs fail to bloom and this may be due to storing bulbs before or after purchasing at too high a temperature, not long enough chilling temperatures, lack of adequate moisture, or bringing the forced bulbs into high temperatures too quickly. Most of the time success is achieved and enjoying the sights and scents of spring flowering bulbs inside our homes in late winter is quite a reward for not a great deal of effort.

                      If you have questions about forcing bulbs or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

                       

                      Apple Picking, Leave the Leaves, Jack-O-Lanterns & other October News

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                      October is for Picking Apples, Fall Cleanup and Jack-O-Lanterns

                      "October is the month for painted leaves.... As fruits and leaves and the day itself acquire a bright tint just before they fall, so the year near its setting. October is its sunset sky; November the later twilight." 

                      -Henry David Thoreau "Autumnal Tints"

                       

                      Going Apple Picking? These tips Are Just for You!

                      We're well into apple season here in Connecticut! With a few weeks left there is still time to get local apples and spend a day out with the family. UConn Fruit Specialist, Evan Lentz, from the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture and UConn Extension, created a fantastic guide to help you find the perfect apple in the orchard!

                      Fun Facts:

                      • Apples come in early, middle, and late season varieties and many orchards will plant a large selection to give you plenty of time to get out and enjoy the experience!
                      • If you're considering growing apples at home, you will need at least two trees that are two different varieties and flower at the same time!
                      • To keep plants shorter for easier access to pick fruit, many apple trees are grafted. The upper portion, known as the scion, will give you. your desired type of fruit. The lower portion or root stock helps to determine the ultimate size of the tree. If suckers are allowed to develop, the apples that they produce could be entirely different!

                      A guide to Apple Picking in Connecticut

                      Leave the Leaves: Let's Clear it Up!

                      Leaves in the perennial garden
                      Photo by H. Zidack

                      At this time of year, we see the same question in many forms:

                      • Should I clean my garden now?
                      • What is your opinion on "leave the leaves?"
                      • Is it better to clean up your garden in the spring or fall?

                      In essence, many gardeners seek guidance on what the best move to make is for cleaning up their gardens. In reality, the "best" decision can be different for different gardeners. These are the considerations we want to bring to mind:

                      Reasons to Leave Plant Debris/Leaf Litter

                      • Create a haven for insects and wildlife to overwinter in
                      • Provide a layer of organic matter/natural mulch in your garden beds
                      • You have more time for garden chores in the spring
                      • Plants with sensitive crowns may be better if left alone over the winter and managed in the spring
                      • Late blooming plants may still be in flower, or ornamental seed heads provide winter interest for your garden space

                      If You Do "Leave the Leaves"

                      • Mulch or shred leaves that will be left on the lawn to break down. This causes them to release nutrients into the soil at a faster pace and gives plants below a chance to find sunlight in the spring
                      • If unable to mulch your leaves, do not leave more than an inch or two of fully intact leaves. Thicker leaves will hold moisture and encourage disease or smother plant material below. They are also slower to break down and will need to be managed in the spring.
                      • Monitor for pests like jumping worms in leaf piles
                      • Monitor closely next growing season for signs of pest and disease and manage as soon as possible!

                      When you SHOULD clean up in the fall:

                      • Your garden has experienced fungal disease or significant pest damage
                        • Sanitation is a least-toxic method of control when it comes to managing garden pest problems.
                        • Many fungal spores and vegetable targeting insects will overwinter in the leaf pile alongside beneficial insects. If you have had a particularly damaging year, it may be in your best interest to remove that leaf litter and plant debris from your property.
                      • There are plants (perennials & ornamental grasses, in particular) along your foundation or in other areas of your property that could encourage undesired rodent damage?
                        • There's no doubt that rodents and small mammals need a home to overwinter in, but by removing possible shelters early in the fall, they will be encouraged to move elsewhere before the real cold sets in.
                      • Trees or shrubs on your property have experienced girdling or rodent damage before.
                        • ​​​​​​​Building up leaves to insulate plants can be great! However, if past trials of this have resulted in damage to the stems or trunks, you may want to reconsider this method.

                      Keep Your Jack-O-Lanterns Fresh!

                      Collection of Jack O Lanterns
                      Photos by Pamm Cooper and H. Zidack

                      Everyone loves to carve a pumpkin! Jack-O-Lanterns (which were originally carved from turnips), are a festive tradition that many of us enjoy!

                      And whether you're a skilled artist or a spirited novice, keeping your jack-o-lantern fresh for the season is important! Learn about the traditions of the Jack-O-Lantern and how to keep yours well preserved at the links below!

                      Origins of the Jack-O-Lantern

                      Presesrve Your Jack-O-Lantern

                       Plant Highlight: Monkshood

                      Monkshood

                      Monkshood, also called helmet flower and wolfsbane, is a deer-resistant non-aggressive, non-invasive non-native perennial that flowers in late summer-October here in Connecticut. The flowers are a striking deep, dark purple blue on upright spikes. It can used in cut flower arrangements. This is a good plant for shade conditions.

                      Learn More About Monkshood

                      Wildlife Highlight: Birds Are On the Move!

                      Palm Warbler

                      The Palm Warbler is a small warbler that forages primarily for insects. They will eat seeds and berries if available. These little birds migrate through our area in the spring and fall! Like a Phoebe, they are known for their characteristic tail wagging when they rest.

                      Late September is the beginning of migration to warmer climates of many species of birds that pass through Connecticut. Cornell University has many helpful fact sheets and other bird information tools that cover birds either breeding in or migrating through the North. 

                      Learn More About Palm Warblers

                      Cornell Birdwatching

                      Birdcast - Migration Forecasts

                      Vegetable Gardening Resources

                      During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

                      While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

                      If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

                      9/13/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

                      Read Previous Pest Messages

                      New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024

                      UConn Fruit Update

                      The UConn Fruit Program publishes a fruit update, very similar to the IPM Vegetable Pest Alert. If you keep fruit trees, this may be a valuable resource for you! If you ever need help understanding how to apply these principles to your own home garden, let us know!

                      Read the Latest UConn Fruit Update

                      New England Tree Fruit Management Guide

                      October 2024 Weather Outlook

                      A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns in September will bring us into harvest season!

                      October Precipitation Outlook (NOAA)      October Temperature Outlook (NOAA)

                      Knowledge to Grow On

                       

                      Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                        • It's Apple Season! Visit a pick-your-own orchard, or find your favorite apple flavored treats starting this month!

                            Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                                CT Invasive Plant Working Group
                                In-Person Symposium
                                October 29th, 2024
                                UConn Student Union
                                Storrs, CT

                                cipwg.uconn.edu

                                 

                                 

                                October Gardening Tips

                                        • October is still a great time to have your soil tested. Beat the spring rush and have your soil ready to go well before the growing season begins!
                                        • Keep collecting matured seeds. Dry them out and place them in labeled brown coin envelopes within an air tight container, and store in a cool place.
                                        • Mulch perennial beds using a loose organic material such as bark chips or leaves to keep down weeds, preserve moisture and give roots a longer time to grow before the soil freezes.
                                        • Sketch out where you planted various vegetables in your garden back in the spring. This will come in handy next spring so when you plant, you can rotate your crops and help prevent disease. Add notes of any issues you saw this season so you don't forget to scout for them next year!
                                        • Plant garlic from October 1st to November 15th. Place each clove pointed-side up at a depth of 2-4” about 6” apart.
                                        • Use a mulching blade to finely chop fallen leaves of healthy trees and let them decompose on the lawn. Completely remove and dispose of any leaves that have shown signs of disease.
                                        • Move the houseplants to their indoor locations when outdoor temperatures are consistently 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Acclamate them by moving them into an unheated mud room or garage for a couple of days before moving them into a heated house. 
                                        • Renovate the lawn by thatching or aerating if needed. All seeding should be done before Oct. 4th for best results. 
                                        • Watch for frost warnings and cover tender plants and pumpkins.
                                        • Limit herbaceous plant material located a few feet away from the house to eliminate hiding places for insects and mice, which could wind up indoors as temperatures plummet.
                                        • If rain is lacking, continue to thoroughly water trees, shrubs, planting beds, and lawn areas. It is especially important to keep newly planted evergreens watered

                                        More October Gardening Tips

                                        This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                        Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

                                         

                                        Is Early Leaf Drop an Indicator of Tree Health?

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                                        By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, Plant Diagnostic Lab

                                        Trees showing their autumn colors
                                        Trees showing their fall colors. Photo by Nick Goltz

                                        The autumnal equinox, one of two times of the year at which day and night are equal in length, just passed on Sunday the 22nd. While this point marks the astrological start of fall, many of the trees lining the roads on my drive to work (and in many of our clients’ yards) seem to want to get a head start on the season. Since late August, we’ve been getting calls from folks across Connecticut asking why the leaves on their trees are changing color and falling early. You may even be thinking, “Hey, a few of my trees are dropping their leaves early too. Is that something that can indicate how healthy they are?” In a word, maybe!

                                        First, let me share the good news that, for most trees, premature color change and leaf drop doesn’t mean that they are in any immediate danger. Plants, much like humans and other animals, respond to stress differently depending on their environment and the kind of year they’ve been having. Just like we might see a little hair loss after a particularly stressful few months, trees may drop their leaves early as a response to stress. Identifying what is causing the stress however, is important when deciding if concern is warranted.

                                        What type of stressors might be causing this early color change and leaf drop? For most trees, the answer is water. Connecticut and several other states in New England had a series of heavy rain events and flash flooding throughout the summer. While we’ve had hardly any rain in the land of steady habits for several weeks now, for many trees, the damage has already been done and symptoms are just appearing now. Saturated soils deprived plant roots of oxygen, damaging them and making them more susceptible to disease. Plants in especially low-lying areas, caught in floodwaters, or grown in poorly-draining clay soils likely experienced the most damage and earliest leaf drop.  Some plants may have even perished outright from the damage. Besides water, excessive heat and the increased prevalence of fungal and bacterial diseases, as well as some insect pests, may have also contributed to the stress our plants are letting us know about now.

                                        So, how can you know if the early color change or leaf drop is an issue for your favorite tree or just its way of complaining about a stressful summer? When and where the leaf change and drop is occurring can help you determine if the damage is likely a normal stress response or due to something more sinister.

                                        Consider when the color change and leaf drop first began. In this instance, seeing some leaves begin to change in the last week of August is less concerning than seeing them change at the end of June. Plants that have their leaves change color and drop in midsummer or earlier are most likely dealing with a disease or pest issue, rather than a stress response. I recommend you get advice for these plants by contacting the UConn Home & Garden Education Center and remove them from your garden if they are unlikely to recover.

                                        Also, consider what part(s) of the canopy was affected. Conifers such as white pine drop their leaves (we usually call them needles) in response to stress too, but you will typically see this take place on the interior of the plant – the older needles that aren’t capturing much sun anymore. Branches on deciduous trees, such as oak, that are in shady spots tend to drop their leaves early too, and this is normal.

                                        Branches in full sun that lose their leaves very early, while others on the tree remain fine, are a bit suspicious. Mark these branches with tape or string and monitor them carefully as the plant produces its first leaves or flowers in the spring. If these marked branches do not produce leaves or flowers with the rest of the tree, get advice (again, by contacting the folks at the UConn HGEC)! The best option is usually to cut them close to the main trunk, then disinfect your pruning tools.

                                        If you’re concerned about the health of your tree, including as a result of a potential disease or pest issue, practice good fall habits to give your trees the best foot forward next spring! Clean as much leaf litter as possible and remove it from the base of trees that dropped their leaves early. If you suspect the plant is diseased or has pests, throw away these leaves or burn them before composting. For example, many plant pathogenic fungi can survive the winter on fallen leaves and reinfect healthy plant tissue the following spring. It’s also a good idea to minimize added stress for your plants. Try not to expose them to herbicides, deicing salts, fertilizers, or other chemicals until they’re looking strong again.

                                        If you aren’t sure how to proceed with your fall cleanup or if you’d simply like a second opinion on your favorite tree, get free horticultural consultation from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center by emailing ladybug@uconn.edu or by calling (877) 486-6271.