Author: Zidack, Heather

Best Practices for Soil Sample Collection: How You Sample Matters

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By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture

Auger full of soil
Auger collection of a 6-inch soil core. Photo by Nora Doonan

Soil testing begins with the homeowner, gardener, and farmer. The most critical step in soil testing is soil sample collection. Soil testing can help growers make informed decisions about fertilizer application, soil amendments, and soil health. A standard nutrient analysis can chemically extract calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, iron, manganese, copper, zinc, aluminum, and boron from the soil. Other tests can also determine the pH and organic matter content of the soil. Poor sample collection can cause errors in the testing results, potentially leading to inaccurate nutrient recommendations and lowered crop productivity. Consistent and proper sampling procedures allow you to make future comparisons of the same sampling area. They also allow you to limit unnecessary nutrient applications that could lead to environmental contamination through the loss of nutrients. In addition, soil testing costs money and can influence the total cost of fertilizer and amendments needed for application. Following proper sample collection procedures can help you avoid unnecessary expenses.  

The first step in collecting a soil sample is to determine an area in which the sample will be collected. You will want to select an area that has similar physical appearance, slope, drainage, limestone or fertilizer treatments, and intended plant usage. For example, if your front lawn has a steep slope compared to a flat side yard, you will want to collect a separate sample from both of those areas, rather than grouping them together as one sample.  

The second step is to have a clean bucket and tool for collecting soil. This can be done more easily with a spade, auger, or probe. You will want to collect 10 or more random subsamples from across the selected area, that way the sample submission is representative. Flowers, vegetables, and small fruits soil samples should be collected to a depth of 6-8 inches. A depth of 6 inches is widely accepted since it represents the zone in which there is highest root density and nutrient uptake for many plant species. Soil samples collected for turf should be collected to a depth of 3-4 inches, since most turfgrass roots are concentrated in the top 4 inches of soil. Tree and shrub samples should be collected to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. These are the recommended sampling depths from the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory. It is also important to make sure that the sample is collected vertically, rather than at an angle. Sampling at an angle can affect the sampling depth and lead to inaccurate lab results.  

Next, you will want to mix the subsamples together to break up the clumps while removing stones and debris. Once mixed, scoop out at least 1 cup of soil into a zipper lock bag and label the bag with a sample identification. Fill out the submission form with the same sample identification and label a crop code. Crop codes are key for making recommendations. Different crops have different needs. For example, blueberry plants prefer acidic soils that have a pH between 4.5 and 5.0 while turf prefers a pH between 6.0 and 7.2.  

Soil samples can be collected at any time of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen, but should not be collected when the soil is very wet or within six to eight weeks of a fertilizer or lime application. Many samples are submitted in the spring to prepare for the growing season, but a fall soil sample submission can be very beneficial for soil pH and some fertility corrections. Limestone and sulfur can be added to the soil in the fall to allow plenty of time for the lime to neutralize soil acidity and bring pH to target levels by the spring. Sandy textured soils should be sampled every 2 to 3 years and clay soils should be sampled every 3 to 4 years. If a soil test reveals that a large correction in pH or fertility is necessary, it may be a good idea to have your soil tested again in 1 year to evaluate the correction. More information on soil testing services and soil sampling procedures can be found at the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory. 

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

  

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 16, 2025

Weed Management for Late Summer

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

With a perfect combination of warm days, cool nights, and plenty of rain, every gardener has been fighting weeds since this summer began! To add to the frustration, the weather patterns themselves have felt like they have fallen on weekends, holidays, and all those precious hours that we love to be spending in the garden, making it difficult to get out and manage what is there. So how do we catch up?  

A person using a weed wacker
Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

I’m sorry to say that the adage of “pick your battles” is going to be the best strategy to keep you from “getting lost in the weeds.” Mechanical removal like string trimming, mowing, or cultivating your garden are always effective. But some of us are looking for something that feels more efficient or saves our back from hours of labor-intensive weed pulling in this summer heat. Strategizing more long-term goals for your planting beds and lawns might be better for you than running outside with your garden weasel right now.  

We’ve all heard “nature abhors a vacuum” before. Weeds are no different. If turf is thin, or garden beds are left with uncovered soil, weeds will pop up. Utilize groundcovers and mulches to keep soil covered. If you’re in between plantings in the vegetable garden, a temporary cover, like cardboard, may keep seeds from contacting the soil until you’re ready to plant! For more long-term coverage, consider cover crops in your vegetable gardens.  

Encourage dense plantings through proper fertilizing, watering, and care. Healthy perennials and shrubs will shade out seeds that may try to germinate below them. For lawns, consider overseeding to bulk up thinned turf areas between August 15th and September 15th.  Mulch garden beds and pathways with a minimum depth of 3 inches if groundcovers aren’t being used.  

Once you have soil coverage under control, look at the nutrition. When the soil is not nutritionally supportive, you often find compounding issues like patches where you can never get grass to grow, poor vegetable production/flowering, and lots of weeds! Many weeds can thrive in these poor soils. While weeds aren’t necessarily a definitive indicator of a nutrient problem, it can be another clue when looking at the health of your planting areas. If you kill the weeds, and the soil remains poor you can expect weeds again the following season. Therefore, testing your soil and correcting imbalances is a long term and sustainable solution.  

Some common weeds, like crabgrass, are beyond a stage where we can easily control them with methods available to the homeowner. Fear not! Crabgrass is an annual, and the plants themselves will not return next year! They, instead, propagate through seeds.  

At this point in the season, shift your focus towards minimizing next year’s seed bank. As much as we loved to “make a wish” on a dandelion as children, we were only spreading more dandelions into the yard! Keep this in mind now as you tend your garden. Cut grass before weeds can develop flowers and distribute seeds. Remove plants like pokeweed, before they have a chance to develop berries that can be carried off by animals.  

Don’t underestimate the value of a good identification. Knowing the exact species of weed in the garden can help you make a targeted approach with whatever physical, cultural, or chemical method you might be considering.  

If you must resort to chemical management, read the label in full and follow all instructions provided. At the UConn Home & Garden Education Center we do not recommend the use of anecdotal home remedies for weeds. Many of these methods are not researched. Products used in the garden should be labeled for use on a specific host, a specific pest, and have specific application instructions. As an example, while vinegar may be recommended anecdotally to use on weeds in the garden, one should only consider a product like horticultural vinegar that has a specific formulation, concentration, and a product label that clearly identifies its uses, safety precautions, and instructions for use.  

No matter what weed you are trying to manage, persistence is key. This is especially important to remember if you’re dealing with the most aggressive weeds, or even invasive plant species. Rarely do we see a single treatment leading to complete eradication. So don’t be discouraged if plants are taking multiple seasons to tackle. The CT Invasive Plant Working Group has great guidances on what you should do for specific species of invasive plants like Japanese Knotweed, Mile-A-Minute Vine, Tree of Heaven, and more.  

If you have specific questions or need help with weed identification in the lawn or garden, send us pictures, or stop by with a sample.  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 9, 2025

Extreme Sports for Plants: Temperature Tolerance

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By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

Spathiphyllum wallisii in a pot wilting indoors

This Spathiphyllum wallisii is forty years old. In the fall of 2024, it wilted due to an extreme negative temperature change. (photo by M. Lisy)

Spathiphyllum wallisii outside, lush and healthy

This is the same Spathiphyllum wallisii showing a lot of new growth during the warm, humid summer of 2025. (photo by M. Lisy)

Plants, like humans, have an ideal temperature preference.  In general, we like to have temperatures between 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  Temperatures outside this range cause us stress.  Our plants have very similar temperature requirements, only they have no ability to shiver or move!  This past winter, I had a 40-year-old houseplant near my bedroom window.  Our fall weather hit, and we dropped about 30 degrees in a day.  My plant wilted and looked like it was going to die.  After a long process of investigation and discussions with my fellow plant professionals, I can only conclude it was the rapid temperature change.  The good news is that it made a full recovery once it adapted to the cooler weather.

This past winter, I had some Sansevieria that were under my windowsill.  They get beautiful light in the later part of the day.  The house is heated to 55 degrees, which is above their lower temperature tolerance, but the plants were not looking good.  This spring, I found out that the storm window had fallen out of place.  This set up a cold draft that negatively affected the plants, causing some formerly unexplained rot over the winter.

Not all plants have the same susceptibility to temperature.  Cacti and succulents are usually from hot, arid climates.  These plants are used to seeing temperatures soaring in the day, and then getting comparatively cold at night.  As long as they are given proper light, most of these plants can tolerate life very easily in our homes.  Even cold, unheated basements or outdoor greenhouses are just fine as long as temperatures stay above freezing.

Many of our plants come from the tropical forest floor where they are used to similar temperatures during the day and the night, all year long.  While there is some adaptation to life in our homes, they have a preferred temperature and humidity range.  There are some really neat “new” Philodendron species being offered for sale.  Many of them have minimum temperatures of 60 or even 65.  This can be difficult to do in an era where our smart thermostats are programed to turn down while we are not home, and up when we return in the evening.  These temperature swings may be intolerable to our plants.

Be careful watering plants when the sun is shining.  Those little water droplets can end up capturing the sun’s rays just like a greenhouse would.  The droplets heat up and can actually burn a spot in the plant leaf.  Remember, each drop can do this, so many times, the whole plant can look like a spotted mess!

Temperature can many times mark the difference between success and failure to keep some of the more difficult species of houseplants.  Changes should be done slowly to avoid stress.  If houseplants are kept outside in the summer, waiting too long can see the loss of some plants with lower temperature tolerances.  Placing plants closer to the house or inside a simple greenhouse can help during the first cool nights of early fall.  Especially sensitive plants should be brought in before any threat of cool weather.  I learned this lesson the hard way with my prized Philodendron squamiferum.  Its ideal temperature range is 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit.  I had it in the basement and was planning on moving it to the first floor, but left it down there as the light was nice.  While this plant technically can tolerate temperatures in the 50s for a short duration, it got too cold for too long and it dropped all its leaves one night (it died).  As a general rule of thumb, if it is too cold for people, it will be too cold for our houseplants!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 2, 2025

Weeds, Strawberries, Butterflies, and Other August News

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August 2025

“A late summer garden has a tranquility found no other time of the year.”

— William F. Longgood

Overwhelmed by Weeds?

A garden bed with bare soil, weeds, and a hand tiller
It doesn't take long for weeds to creep into garden beds! Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

This season's pattern of lots of rain and lots of heat have made it difficult for gardeners to get out into their gardens, while creating the perfect environment for weeds to thrive!

We've been getting quite a few calls regarding weed management and invasive species control as gardens are booming with unwelcome guests. And while there is no one[size-fits-all approach to weed management, here are the key points to remember: 

  • “Nature abhors a vacuum." Leaving bare soil or undisturbed garden areas will more likely lead to the development of weeds. Instead, keep the soil covered until you intend to plant. Encourage dense plantings of cover crops in vegetable gardens, utilize groundcovers, or consider using mulch of a thickness of 3" or more for walkways and desired plant-free areas.
  • Minimize the seed bank. Keep weeds mowed or cut back before flowers or fruit emerge. Turn the soil, or ensure dense plantings don't allow seeds to germinate by shading out the area or preventing good soil contact. Consider pre-emergents if you have a history of recurrence.
  • Sometimes (not always) weeds can be an indication of soil fertility. Therefore, soil amendments may be more effective than spraying or hand pulling. Get your soil tested to know for sure!
  • If considering garden chemicals, always make sure to identify the weed and use only products that are labeled for that plant. Read the label in full for all information regarding application rates, safety and environmental considerations.
  • Be patient and persistent with management. Total eradication and control may eed multiple seasons before you see results. Keep at it!

Weed Control in Landscapes Non-Chemical Measures

Weeds as Indicators of Soil and Growing Conditions in Turf

CIPWG Invasive Plant List

Renovate Your Strawberry Beds

To promote continuous success of strawberries in your garden, take time this August to perform renovations to your plants. Maintenance such as clipping tall growth, removing weak or dead leaves, and fertilization will help to maximize the productivity of your strawberries in the coming years. Mulching, ensuring adequate water intake, and weeding are also necessary for upkeep of strong plants. These techniques maximize yields and protect against disease prevalence.

End of Season Strawberry Renovation - UConn HGEC

Renovation of Strawberry Plantings - University of Nebraska-Lincoln

Where are the butterflies?

Small brown butterfly on a twig
Banded Hairstreak Butterfly. Photo by Pamm Cooper,
UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Are you seeing fewer butterflies in your garden? You're not alone.

New studies have determined that over the past two decades in the continental United States, the populations of hundreds of butterfly species have fallen by 22%. These declines are commonly attributed to pesticide use, habitat loss, and climate change. This is concerning because butterflies play important roles in pollination, cycling nutrients, and are a significant food source for other organisms such as birds.

However, conservation biologists have created a roadmap for recovering butterfly populations across the US, and their best chance at recovery starts in your backyard. Actions you can take include providing as much habitat as possible for these animals and keeping these areas pesticide-free.  

As U.S. butterfly populations plummet, scientists map a road to recovery

Study raises the possibility of a country without butterflies

Native Plant: August Flowering Perennials

Bonset, Spotted joe-pye weed, and goldenrod blooming in a meadow
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Native spotted Joe-pye Weed (Eupatorium maculatum), Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) and certain moisture-loving goldenrods (Solidago spp.) can often be found in dampish soils in open areas. They are often found together in the wild, and all three are attractive to pollinators and butterflies.

These natives bloom at the same time in late July through early September, making them a good addition to a moist garden area that could use some color in late summer. There are many native goldenrods that will do fine in drier soils, as well, making them a versatile plant.

Learn More About Boneset

Learn More About Goldenrods

Learn More About Spotted Joe-pye Weed

The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Surf the Web on Web Soil Survey!

This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology brings you a word on Web Soil Survey. Are you ever curious about the soil in your yard and wish there was some way you could learn more information about it? You’re in luck, because there is an online web tool that allows you to do just that!

Web Soil Survey is a free online tool that allows you to input an address and select an area of interest to view a soil map and soils data in that area. This information is provided by the National Cooperative Soil Survey, which is operated by the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS). This tool can help you decide what plants to grow based on your soil conditions, as well as aid in other land planning. Web Soil Survey contains a lot of information, but an interesting feature is the soil health data, which can provide descriptions and ratings for key soil health indicators. 

By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student

Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

    Temperature map

Precipitation Outlook

 

In the Garden & Pest Alerts

Tobacco Budworms

Tobacco budworm caterpillars, can be pests of many flowering plants in the tobacco family. Petunias, geraniums, snapdragons and Calibrachoa are just a few of the plants whose buds and flowers can be damaged by this caterpillar.

Check plants that have stopped flowering to see if buds have been eaten or damaged. Check inside flowers for these caterpillars as they have a preference for reproductive flower parts and petals.

Hand- picking them off is the best control method. Most insecticides should not be used on flowers as pollinator may be killed or injured. BtK is normally ineffective.

Tobacco Budworm

Tobacco budworm on pink flower bud

Photo by Pamm Cooper,
UConn Home & Garden Education Center

UConn Pest Alerts

During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert for both vegetable and fruit producers. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

UConn Vegetable Pest Alerts

UConn Fruit Pest Messages

New England Vegetable Management Guide

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

      Educational Opportunities & Workshops

            Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products! 

            Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets! 

            Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.

            Consider attending a local farmers market, joining Community Supported Agriculture (CSA's), or even stopping by your nearest farm stand to see what they have to offer!  

             

            August Gardening Tips

                • Lawn seeding, whether it's renovation, repair, or spot seeding should take place between August 15th and September 15th
                • Container and hanging plants may need additional water later in the day if hot and windy conditions prevail. Check plants again at day’s end to see if any additional water is necessary
                • Fertilize container plantings and hanging baskets if they look yellow with a ½ strength dose of a balanced liquid fertilizer.
                • Fertilize perennials with a 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 product to encourage continued blooming.
                • Remove old plants that have stopped producing to eliminate a shelter for insects and disease organisms. Replant sites with chard, quick maturing beans or cucumbers, leafy greens etc.
                • Put netting on fruit trees and bushes a few weeks before the fruit begins to ripen to protect it from birds and squirrels
                • Raise your mowing height to 3 inches during hot weather and mulch clippings if possible
                • Even though tomatoes continue to ripen after picking, fruits develop greatest flavor when allowed to ripen on plants. The exception is cherry tomatoes since many varieties are prone to splitting. Pick any almost ripe ones before a heavy rain.
                • Renovate strawberry beds by mowing to a height of 1 ½ inches, thinning plants and side-dressing with a balanced fertilizer
                • To reduce the number of pests on your fruit trees for the coming year practice good sanitation by removing and destroying all fallen fruit. Do not compost it.
                • Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.

                This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Holly McNamara, Emily Leahy, Nora Doonan

                Favorite Summer Plants For Hummingbirds

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                By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home and Garden Education Center  

                Every spring I make a list of the plants that hummingbirds visited the   most the year before, and then my search at garden centers and nurseries begins in earnest. The plants I look for are the ones that not only hummingbirds seem to benefit from the most, but also the ones that bloom the longest. I also select the plants whose flowers I enjoy as well.  

                Although annuals generally have the longest bloom time, there are some perennial ornamentals that are very attractive to hummingbirds and are worth considering for a garden or a landscape. Including a small group of these plants would be a great benefit to hummingbirds as they visit your property.  

                Obedient plants, Physostegia virginiana, can bloom from early June through September. These drought tolerant perennials may get 3 feet tall and some will slowly spread. If that trait is a problem, The ‘Manners’ series such as the white ‘Miss Manners’ obedient plants are not spreaders. The flowers are also attractive to butterflies, especially tiger swallowtails, and pollinators.  

                Native swamp milkweed, Asclepias incarnata, is also visited by hummingbirds. This plant likes moister soils than most milkweed, and mine is planted near a birdbath that gets emptied frequently to add fresh water. This milkweed, along with butterfly weed A. tuberosa, can be deadheaded to promote rebloom.  

                Hyssops, Agastache spp., are also a favorite of hummingbirds, and most have a long bloom period, some starting in late spring. The ‘Kudos’ series with small flowers that are yellow, pink or orange are the ones visited the most by hummingbirds on my property. Another favorite is ‘Boa’, which has larger flower spikes lasting a good three months. Deadheading all will prolong bloom time.  

                Annual flowering plants that are a favorite of hummingbirds include Salvias, cardinal climber, Fuschias, Lantanas and Cupheas. All are easy to grow, and all but the cardinal vine can be used in containers, hangers and window boxes.  

                The cardinal climber, Ipomena x multifida, is an attractive, fast-growing annual vine that has small, brilliant red trumpet- like flowers. You can save seeds from this plant and use them next year. One plant can grow to fill a large trellis, and you may need to corral it in if it starts reaching out for nearby plants.  

                Of the Cupheas, the ones most visited, in my experience, are the large firecracker plant, C. vermillionaire, and the smaller one, C. schumannii, also called the orange cigar plant. The former is superior, with a compact, mounding habit and continuous bloom of orange tubular flowers until frost. If the smaller cigar plant is planted directly in the garden, give it some room as it sprawls somewhat.  

                Purple flowers on a dark purple upright stem.
                Black and Blue Salvia. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Annual Salvias like the “Rockin’ series, the ‘Black and Blue’,  ‘Roman Red’ and the ‘Hot Lips’ salvias are the ones I always have in my containers or plant directly in the ground in spaces I leave for them. I would not venture to guess which ones hummingbird prefer, as they visit all of these throughout the day.  

                There are a couple of shrubs that I learned by chance observance are favorites of hummingbirds. These are Weigelas, and butterfly bushes, Buddleia davidii. There are Weigelas that bloom only in the spring, some that bloom in spring and then again later in the summer through fall, like the ‘Sonic Blooms’, and some that bloom throughout the year, like ‘Crimson Kisses’ and ‘ Peach Kisses’. The last two are smaller shrubs which have a rounded habit.  

                The plants I have included in this brief article are only a small example of plants that the average gardener can include on their property in gardens or containers of some type. I will mention that while I do have a hummingbird feeder, the hummers I see are favoring actual flowers over that source of food. Downy woodpeckers and orioles do visit the feeder instead, so it is useful to them, I guess. I may start calling it my downy feeder, at least during the summer. 

                The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

                This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 26, 2025

                Seeing Ghosts in Your Garden?

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                By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                While meandering around my backyard this past weekend, I spotted a striking plant which I had never seen before. At first instinct, I assumed it was a particularly unique fungal species and snapped a couple pictures. My curiosity having been piqued, I did some research and learned that it was in fact not a fungus, but a parasitic plant reliant on fungus – Monotropa uniflora. Its name is self-descriptive; Monotropa, illustrating the single turn of its shepherd hook shape, and uniflora, depicting the lone flower produced on each stem. It is also known as “Ghost Plant” or “Indian Pipe.”

                Pale white stem and leaf structures of Monotropa uniflora.
                Monotropa uniflora in a shaded area. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                Perhaps the most unusual feature of Monotropa uniflora is its color, or lack thereof. While mostly white-colored overall, hues of pink can be visible along with black flecks spread along the plant. The translucent nature of the plant is derived from the absence of chlorophyll, a green pigment and key component allowing autotropic plants to perform photosynthesis.

                Autotrophs are organisms that convert abiotic (non-living) sources of energy, like sunlight, into organic compounds they can use for food production. Most plants have this ability, using the chemical reactions in photosynthesis to produce carbohydrates for their own nourishment. However, Monotropa uniflora, a heterotrophic plant, cannot carry out such processes. They seek the organic compounds needed to sustain themselves from external sources. Autotrophs are often referred to as “producers” and heterotrophs “consumers” to illustrate this distinction. Since Monotropa uniflora is not directly dependent on sunlight for survival, it is often found in shaded areas and forests.

                This all begs the question – where does Monotropa uniflora get its nourishment from? The answer comes in the form of its parasitization of mycorrhizal fungi and surrounding trees. The term “mycorrhizal” is used to describe fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of its host plant. The interaction is mutually beneficial – mycorrhizal fungi receive sugars and carbon from its host, which in turn is aided by the fungus in its absorption of water and nutrients. The root system of the host plant is used as a transportation highway in these interactions.

                Monotropa uniflora inserts itself as a third player in the relationship, disrupting its balance. In a clever sleight of hand, the parasite tricks the mycorrhizal fungi into thinking it is forming another symbiotic relationship as its root system interacts with the fungal mycelium. However, the benefits of this interaction are strictly one-sided as Monotropa siphons the carbohydrates, initially derived from the mycorrhizae’s host trees, for its own consumption. This is not severely detrimental to the fungi or host plants, but it certainly detracts from the vigor of their symbiotic relationship and the amount of available resources transferred between the two entities.

                Monotropa uniflora has a wide range of distribution throughout the U.S., so it is possible to see these fascinating plants in action in a variety of locations. Its flowering season ranges from early summer to early fall and it thrives even after seeds are released.

                A microcosm of ecological phenomena, Monotropa uniflora is quite the unique find. It is enthralling not only to observe, but also to know the complex interactions that occur just below ground. I say we can overlook its parasitic tendencies and appreciate its role in the delicate balance of our natural world – after all, everyone loves a good villain, right?

                Need help identifying something interesting in your garden? We’re here to help! The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

                This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 19, 2025

                It’s Not Too Late! Plant Now for Fall Harvests

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                By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Squash seedling with first true leaves mulched with straw.
                A young squash seedling planted in time for the fall harvest! Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Gardeners have had a broad range of experiences with their vegetable gardens this season. Some planted early in May with the warm weather, which was followed by a cold front that meant covering plants, or keeping them in pots longer than you had planned. For others, a pattern of cool, rainy spring weekends delayed planting! Cornell even sent out a reminder to residents to watch for tractors on the roads a little later this season as farmers, too, were scrambling to adjust in upstate New York. Thankfully, there is still plenty of growing season left for us to shift our practices and still have a bountiful harvest from our home gardens.

                There are roughly 100 days left of the growing season until the first predicted frost date, according to the farmers’ almanac. That means you have an opportunity to still plant your dream vegetable garden! Look at the “days to maturity” to determine if planting now makes sense. Many summer crops, like zucchini, cucumbers, and even some types of winter squash have much shorter days to maturity and can be started from seed right in the warm, summer soil.

                Have a type of bean, radish or leafy green you love, but can’t process bushels at a time? Plant every couple of weeks this month for a staggered harvest to enjoy your favorites for an even longer period at a more manageable volume!

                Do you plan to harvest garlic this month? Be ready to follow up with a short-term crop like leafy greens, beets, carrots, or even some types of corn!

                The practice of succession planting gives gardeners a chance to extend the garden season and promotes soil health by keeping your garden beds active. Rotating crops in this fashion reduces the risks of soil erosion, weed overgrowth, and nutrient depletion, when done correctly.

                When setting up a succession or rotation schedule, consider what has been in the bed previously and how those plantings might interact. Determine the nutrient needs of the plants you are considering. You want to be sure you are not planting one heavy feeder right after another as this may mean you need to provide more nutritional support than you planned for. Instead, opt for plants that feed on different nutrients, or better still, plants that help to reintroduce nutrients into the soil.

                Succession planting and crop rotation not only benefit the garden beds that have been put on the back burner as we’ve tried to find time between the rain and temperature swings, but it may also benefit those who have a history of battling with garden pests. Planting later in the season may help prevent or minimize damage from many single generation pests, like the Squash Vine Borer or the Four-Lined Plant Bug.

                Many Cole crops (those in the brassica family) and cool season crops can be started from seed now in preparation for fall planting. However, it may be best to start these indoors instead of directly sowing in the ground. Temperatures over 85 may cause delayed germination or bolting too early once those plants pop out of the soil. Starting them indoors gives you a little more control over the temperature. Otherwise, search for heat tolerant varieties for better results.

                If you want a rest from the care of vegetable gardening and harvesting, consider planting annuals. There are many varieties of marigold, cosmos, zinnia, and some other beautiful cut flower varieties that could happily take up some space and lend their services to some late season table arrangements for you!

                There’s a lot to still do if you want a bountiful fall harvest, and there are a lot of considerations to make when planning what to plant next. Do your research with cooperative extension or land-grant university resources for science-backed information to guide you in your next steps. And remember, we’re here at the Home & Garden Education Center to help you make sense of it all!

                The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

                This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 12, 2025

                Hyped for Hydrangeas

                Posted on by

                Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab 

                When I moved to Connecticut in July of 2021, I remember driving through neighborhoods looking for somewhere I might eventually want to live and being struck by the beautifully-landscaped yards that each home seemed to showcase. I particularly remember being impressed by the tidy hedges of hydrangea, filled with lush globes of blue, pink and purple flowers. Can you think of a flower more emblematic of breezy, long summer days by New England coast than the hydrangea? I’ll wait. 

                Hydrangeas are a fascinating group of perennial plants with some unique quirks that make them a fun addition for the home garden. The genus is native to Asia and North America, but the species grown most commonly around the world, Hydrangea macrophylla, is native to Japan and has been bred extensively for hundreds of years, resulting in many cultivars. They are also bred with other species to help select for cold tolerance or inflorescence (flower cluster) shape.  

                Hydrangea macrophylla are commonly known as “bigleaf hydrangea”, but may also be called “lacecap” or “mophead” hydrangea, depending on the shape of the cultivar’s inflorescence. While many species of hydrangeas have white flowers, bigleaf hydrangeas are prized for their beautiful inflorescences that act as a natural pH indicator of the soil the plants grow in. The petals of flowers will change depending on how basic or acidic the soil is. Flowers will be blue, indigo, or deep purple in acidic soils with a pH of 5.5 or less. Plants gown in a slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 will have a mix of purple hues. Hydrangeas grown in neutral to basic soils with a pH greater than 6.5 (especially 7 and up) will generally have fuchsia to pink-colored flowers. Many gardeners will amend the soil of their hydrangea beds from year to year to achieve the color that they hope for.  

                Many folks know of the color-changing capabilities of hydrangeas, but keep reading for a few tips on how to properly care for them beyond adjusting soil pH. Hydrangeas prefer moist, well-draining soil and a sheltered spot with partial shade. Some cultivars tolerate full sun well, but must be watered consistently to look their best. Hydrangeas do not grow exceptionally large and are considered “low fire risk”, so are a better choice for planting near the home. 

                A small hydrangea with both purple and pink blooms
                This ‘Summer Crush’ hydrangea near my house will have purple blooms in acidic soils and fuchsia blooms with basic soils. Because both colors are appearing, I’m guessing this soil must have a pH between 5.5 and 6.5!

                There’s a reason why coastal New England towns seem to be filled with hydrangeas while interior towns, particularly for our friends in Vermont, western Massachusetts, Maine, and New Hampshire, have fewer. Bigleaf hydrangeas can tolerate cold temperatures, but only to an extent. Depending on the cultivar, bigleaf hydrangeas grow best from zones 6 to 8. Most cultivars will survive zone 5 winters, but might not flower well without protection – harsh winter temperatures, especially when paired with low snow cover, can kill flower buds.  

                Flower buds form on old growth for most cultivars of bigleaf hydrangea. Because of this, many folks will accidentally prune away flower buds in winter, resulting in poor flower production come summer. For this reason, it’s important to never prune bigleaf hydrangea in fall, winter, or spring. Only prune away the bare stems from the previous year when you see that no new growth is being produced from them, or in summer when collecting flowers for the vase on your kitchen table!  

                 If you find the twiggy winter appearance unsightly and can’t help but prune, if you struggle with deer feeding, or if you live in an area with common late spring frosts, consider planting a “reblooming” bigleaf hydrangea. There are a few cultivars, such as ‘Endless Summer’ and sports, that will produce flower buds on old growth and (usually) a second flush on new growth. Alternatively, you could plant other species of hydrangeas, such as smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), or panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata), which tend to be a little more cold-hardy, or oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), if you’re looking for a hydrangea for an area with very hot summers.  

                If you have questions about growing hydrangeas, or any other gardening topic, call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center (toll-free) at (877) 486-6271. You can also email us at ladybug@uconn.edu, visit our website, www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or visit your local UConn Cooperative Extension center.  

                 

                This article was published in the Hartford Courant and The Westerly Sun July 5, 2025

                Succession Planting, Herb Harvesting and Other July News

                Posted on by
                June 2025

                "Flowers are wilting
                My enthusiasm, too
                Only weeds survive."

                — Gaia Garden

                There's Still Plenty of Planting Time

                A garden bed of garlic with half of the plants removed
                Once the garlic is removed from this bed, something new will have to go in! Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                This year’s wacky weather set our gardens up on what feels like a very strange schedule. Typically, by this point in the season we start to sit back and wait for the tomatoes to ripen, but if you want a garden that stretches into autumn, the work continues!

                As of July 1st, we are 106 days away from the Farmer’s Almanac’s anticipated first Frost Date (Oct. 15th in Storrs, CT). That’s still plenty of time to grow!

                Succession planting helps keep your garden space constantly active through the growing season. It may look like planting a new crop immediately after one has completed its cycle in the garden, or staggered plantings for an extended harvest. We looked at this briefly in our May Newsletter as a way to maximize space. Here's some tips to keep rolling with succession planting this summer:

                • Continue planting bush beans from seed every 2 weeks through the end of July for a bountiful harvest!  
                • Did you harvest your garlic this month? Are your cool season crops past their prime or starting to bolt? Replace them and direct seed new plants!  
                  • Look at days to maturity to ensure there is enough time for the plants to develop before frost hits 
                  • Don’t follow up with the same thing in the same planting space – rotate your crops for better soil and plant health! 
                  • There are varieties of cucumber, squash and zucchini that can still be planted 
                  • Many types of greens and root vegetables like carrot, radish, turnip and beet can be planted in July  
                • Replace vegetable plants that are no longer producing with annuals that have short flowering time for late season beauty 
                • Allow the garden bed to “rest” by planting a cover crop
                • Don’t put away those grow lights just yet! Cool season crops, like brassicas, may need to be started indoors. The summer heat outdoors may inhibit germination or growth. 

                What You Can Plant Mid-July

                Succession Planting

                Fall Vegetable Gardening

                Harvesting Herbs in Your Summer Garden!

                Including herbs in summer gardens is a common practice due to their low-maintenance care and delicious flavors that pair well with many summertime dishes and drinks.

                Herbs should be harvested when the oils responsible for aroma and flavor are at their peak. This harvest time is determined by the growing conditions of each individual plant, rather than a specific month or day.

                Many herbs are most flavorful and ready to harvest just as the flower buds first appear, but before they are fully open. It’s best to harvest them in the late morning, after the dew has dried and before the hot afternoon sun draws out their delicate flavor.  However, some species, like cilantro, may become bitter as the plant starts to flower. Bottom line: know your plants!

                Annual herbs such as basil and parsley can be harvested until frost. Perennial herbs such as oregano, thyme, mint and chives can be clipped until late August.

                For your perennial herbs, stop harvesting about one month before the frost date, because late pruning could encourage tender growth that cannot harden-off before winter. 

                Growing, Harvesting & Drying Herbs

                Harvesting & Preserving Herbs for the Home Gardener

                Native Plant: Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)

                Eastern Tiger Swallowtail butterfly on pink flowers of the swamp milkweed
                Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) is native to most of the U.S. It's flowers bloom from mid-July to mid-August in the Northeast. A. incarnata is one of many native Milkweeds including A. tuberosa, A. syriaca and others. 

                Look for it in moist habitats such as pond, stream, and river edges or in moist areas of meadows. Pink flowers are highly attractive to butterflies, moths, bees and other pollinators.

                Learn More About Swamp Milkweed

                Common CT Milkweeds

                The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

                Word from the WiSE

                Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

                Sweet Summer Strawberries!

                This month, we bring you a word on a sweet summer berry you can easily grow at home - strawberries! Strawberries can be purchased from three main groups: June-bearing, ever-bearing, and day-neutral. For one summer harvest of large berries, gardeners can opt for June-bearing; For two harvests of smaller berries, grab some ever-bearing strawberries. For continuous production all season long, plant day-neutral strawberries. Plant strawberries in the ground in slightly acidic, well-drained soil; Or, if you are space-limited, ever-bearing and day-neutral varieties do well in window boxes that are at least 1ft deep. In fact, planting strawberries in window boxes and keeping them off the ground helps protect them from some pests and diseases which may reduce yields. Enjoy strawberries fresh from the vine, or try your hand at a USDA-approved canning recipe to have strawberry jam year-round. 

                By Abigayle Ward, Soil Science Graduate Student

                Weather Outlook

                A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

                    Temperature map

                Precipitation Outlook

                 

                In the Garden & Pest Alerts

                In the Garden: Cabbage Worms, Moths and Loopers, Oh My!

                 

                Start scouting in July for the various types of caterpillars that can damage your brassicas! Along with lots of holes chewed into leaves, caterpillars typically leave waste behind known as "frass."

                Search on the undersides of leaves and inside the center of plants where leaves are tightly condensed. Once you find the pest, identify it properly for the best control methods! Use Bacillus thuringiensis to control them, or incorporate row covers before a problem is observed to keep pests out.

                Caterpillars on Cole Crops

                Stripped cabbage worm on brassica

                Photo by Heather Zidack,
                UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                UConn Pest Alerts

                During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert for both vegetable and fruit producers. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

                While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

                If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

                UConn Vegetable Pest Alerts

                UConn Fruit Pest Messages

                New England Vegetable Management Guide

                Knowledge to Grow On

                Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                  Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                    • CT State Parks have multiple events happening this month!

                    Save the Date for the 4th Annual UConn IPM Seminar for the Home Gardener

                    Black and red moth with long antennae on a squash leaf.
                    Squash Vine Borer Moth
                    Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                    Thursday, August 14th, 2025
                    9:00 AM - 1:00 PM

                    UConn Research Farm
                    99 Agronomy Road, Storrs, CT 06268

                    Learn basic principles of Integrated Pest Management and techniques to implement in your gardens with a day designed for the home gardener.  Speakers from the UConn IPM team will present on various topics to help you improve the plant and soil health of your gardens, lawns, and landscapes.

                    Learn About the UConn IPM Program

                    Event Details

                     

                    Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products! 

                    Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets! 

                    Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.

                    Consider attending a local farmers market, joining Community Supported Agriculture (CSA's), or even stopping by your nearest farm stand to see what they have to offer!  

                     

                    July Gardening Tips

                      • Water early in the morning to reduce the loss of water to evaporation during the hottest days
                      • Container and hanging plants may need additional water later in the day if hot and windy conditions prevail. Check plants again at day’s end to see if any additional water is necessary
                      • Pinching back herbs to stop flowering will keep the best flavor in the leaves and encourage branching. Herbs can be air dried, dried quickly in the microwave, or frozen
                      • Cucumbers are heavy drinkers and feeders. Keep the soil evenly moist during hot spells to avoid bitter fruit and side-dress plants with 1/4 cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer or the equivalent in mid-July
                      • Plant cool-season crops such as broccoli, spinach, kale, lettuce, and chard where they will be shaded from the sun
                      • Put netting on fruit trees and bushes a few weeks before the fruit begins to ripen to protect it from birds and squirrels
                      • Raise your mowing height to 3 inches during hot weather and mulch clippings if possible
                      • Fertilize roses for the last time in mid-July
                      • Control mosquitoes by eliminating all sources of stagnant water. Clean bird baths and pet’s outdoor dishes often
                      • Check family members and pets for ticks after being outside, especially when in tall grass or wooded areas. If necessary, send ticks to the Connecticut Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory for testing
                      • Leaky garden hoses and fittings can waste water. Check hoses while they are under full pressure and make repairs

                      This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                      Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Holly McNamara, Abigayle Ward

                      Plants Enjoy Summer Too!

                      Posted on by

                      By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty 

                      A monstera adansonii with yellowing, curling and damaged leaves
                      This Monstera adansonii, that was sunburned. The damage can take weeks to fully appear, first starting as faint yellowing, then brown dead tissue (photo by M. Lisy).

                      A summer vacation can be beneficial for our houseplants provided that we pay attention to some abiotic (nonliving) factors.  Plants need time to adapt to new growing conditions or they can have deadly consequences.  Try and make the change as gradual as possible.  I usually wait until the end of May, where temperatures are consistently in the 70s for the highs, and no lower than 50s for the lows.   

                      Our plants cannot go from dim, indoor lighting to super bright full sun outside.  Any leaves subject to this will burn and die.  The best way to acclimate plants to life outdoors is to place them in the shade of a large tree for about a week, and then gradually expose them to some direct sunlight.  At first, start with only an hour or two of sun, and then add a bit more the following week until you transition them to full sun.  This is assuming that the plants in question are ones that need full sun.  Cacti and succulents can generally be transitioned to full sun (one notable exception are the forest cacti).   

                      Most of our houseplants are actually forest-floor species or epiphytes (these grow and live on the trunks of other trees).  Either way, those two groups of plants grow in the understory shade of a larger tree in nature, and do well there over the summer.  Some plants I saw recently for sale were called neon philodendron.  These have light green leaves (similar color to neon pothos).  The light was so intense that it bleached the leaves to a pale-yellow color, and some were turning brown.  The plants looked miserable, and the grower said she was going to move them to a shadier location.   

                       I am not sure why we cannot have normal weather, but it seems we have had either too dry or too wet the last five years.  When it rains consistently, it keeps our plants in a constantly moist state, which leads to root rot.  I lost a few really nice philodendrons due to them being too moist in last summer’s constant rain.  The ideal setting would have the plants exposed to good light while under cover.  This way, the gardener can water them appropriately based on the needs of each plant.  If this is not an option, repotting and adding some extra perlite to the mix will help the pot shed the excess water.  Be sure to remove the saucer from the pots and hanging baskets while the plants are outside.  These will hold excess water and keep the plants in a constantly moist state and favor fungal infections.   

                       A pot or hanging basket may only have about a gallon or two of soil at best, and will dry out quickly in the heat.  Depending on your soil type, it may be almost impossible to water enough.  Try to avoid full sun in the hottest part of the day between noon and 2:00 p.m.   

                       In an exposed location, wind can rapidly desiccate, windburn, or break plants. A good friend of mine with a large houseplant collection in the Midwest had almost everything he owned blown over and damaged when a tornado swept through his town last summer.  Although he did not experience a direct hit, the winds were so bad it ruined many of his mature plants.  I told him to look at it like an unintentional propagation event.  When vining plants are grown in hanging baskets, they sometimes start to cling to the branches around them and rip in the wind.   

                      Hopefully this article will help plants enjoy their summer vacation.  It is a great time for plants to grow and be propagated.  Be careful of the extremes of summer, and give the plants a gentle exposure to the outdoors. 

                       The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant and The Westerly Sun June 21, 2025