Author: Zidack, Heather

Keep your Perennials & Annuals Looking Fabulous All Season Long!

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By: Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Geraniums and other flowers in a mixed container
Geraniums benefit from regular deadheading. They’re great for beginners because it is easy to tell the difference between new and spent flowers. Photo by H. Zidack

Hanging baskets, planter boxes and perennial gardens that are bursting with color are seldom planted in spring and left untouched until autumn. Deadheading, pruning, trimming and pinching are all techniques that gardeners can use to get that perfect look all season long. While it may be intimidating, this simple task can result in a huge visual impact with only a little effort. Through a series of pruning techniques, we manipulate our perennials and annuals to give us the most beauty we can get out of them in such a short season. It is important to recognize that cutting healthy flowers or shoots can help plants in the long term – no matter how much it may pain us as gardeners to do so.

Deadheading is a widespread practice where gardeners remove flowers that have gone by. One of the first things to become aware of is the difference between a bud and a spent bloom on the plant you are working on. Many gardeners will snip petunia buds, mistaking them for spent flowers. It is important to be vigilant with these cuts. Remember that your plant's goal is to reproduce, and they use flowers to do so. By removing the flowers, you are stopping the plant from producing seed and encouraging it to restart the cycle – meaning more flowers for you!

Some gardeners will select “self-cleaning” varieties of annuals that will shed their flowers without the need to deadhead all summer long. In general, these may not produce seed; therefore can easily restart the process themselves.

The whole practice of deadheading, pinching and trimming herbaceous plants can be boiled down to redirecting the plants energy into different purposes. Where deadheading helps to clean spent flowers, pinching will remove new buds before they bloom. If you want to encourage beautiful single stem cut flowers, for example, you may decide to pinch lateral (side) flower buds to force the plant to put all its energy into a single bloom at the top. Alternatively, pinching the terminal (top) bud will give you many smaller flowers on one stem, creating a fuller appearance.

This same principle applies to pinching shoots of herbaceous plants to make them fill out more. Cutting further down a stem will again remove that terminal bud and cause the plant to focus its energy on new shoots that come from nodes further down the stem. Think of how full your basil plants flush out when you harvest fresh herbs.

Torenia hanging basket
Torenia is considered a self-cleaning annual that is great for shade and is loved by hummingbirds! Photo by H. Zidack

Often, gardeners will notice that in mid to late summer their hanging baskets will start to look “tired.” They may notice prolific flowering on the ends that hang down, but often see that the center of the basket is not as full or may even be dying out. The first thing to check for is to make sure that you are watering them regularly. Because hanging baskets are suspended in the air and uninsulated, they will dry out faster. When you are trimming herbaceous plants for growth you can take one third of the plant volume away at a time, safely. Think about it as playing hair stylist! Cut back one third of the longest growth at the ends, and watch new growth come from the roots. It may also help your hanging baskets to remove any branches that have been shaded or dried out in the interest of “lightening” the growth that is hanging down.  Again, you may lose flowers for a week or two – but the result down the road will be beautiful!

For perennial gardens, June is a wonderful time to do some pruning as well. Cutting back early flowering perennials can encourage a second flush of flowering in some species. This works exceptionally well for plants like Salvia, Nepeta, and Lavender. Deadheading throughout the season will help plants like roses and Echinacea continuously flower. And pinching can help perennial mums form their shape for the fall.

Summer is a stressful time for plants! Disease, pests, and extreme weather can all contribute to a stressful environment. Our New England summers can promote these pressures with high heat and humidity levels. During these times, pay careful attention to your watering habits and adjust, as necessary. In times of drought or excessive heat, plants will use water faster for hydration and cooling, just like we do. Being aware of this can help you know when to check for water and help you be more diligent with your watering practices. Using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer can also promote plant health and reduce stress in perennials and annuals. This is why it is great to fertilize after pruning and deadheading. If you need more information on trimming, watering, fertilizing, or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

New Plantings, Veggie Maintenance, Hummingbird Flowers & Other June News

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June Newsletter Cover

June is for

" It was June, and the world smelled of roses. The sunshine was like powdered gold over the grassy hillside."

- Maud Hart Lovelace, Betsy-Tacy and Tib

 

Establishing New Plantings

Potted nursery plants on a patio.
Plants ready to be planted in the ground! Photo by H. Zidack

Many gardeners have done a majority of their seasonal work by the start of June. While spring is the best time to plant, you will see trees, shrubs and perennials going into the ground as projects pop up over the summer. It CAN be done but NEEDS to be done wisely! Here are some tips to keep any new plantings as healthy as possible in the warmer summer months.

  • The sooner plants can be put into the ground, the better! Plan to purchase and plant within a short timeframe (over the same weekend, if possible). Plants in containers tend to dry out faster and will almost certainly need daily watering if left in hot temperatures and sunny locations.
    • Pace yourself and break up your projects if you need to!
  • Dig a hole the same depth as the pot. Digging wider than the root ball will help it spread but digging too deep can risk burying the crown of the plant which can lead to complications further down the road.
  • If the soil and plants are not nutrient deficient, fertilizing is not necessary. We always recommend fertilizing based on a soil test analysis whenever possible.
  • Do not divide plants in their first year of establishment.
  • Water the soil line with the goal of providing enough water to move beyond the root ball. This will encourage roots to continue to stretch outward.
    • Apply 2-3 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter immediately after planting.
    • Be advised: Watering with sprinklers or drip hoses will only water the first couple inches of soil unless run for long periods of time.
  • ​​​​​​​Check for water regularly.
    • Keep in mind that different plants have different needs and instructions on the tag may provide insight into watering. 
      • Plants that are stressed, exposed to extreme weather conditions, or producing flowers/fruit may need closer attention.
    • The best way to know if a plant needs water is to check the soil. Feel the first few inches of the soil to determine if it is wet or dry
    • Many potting media mixes used by nurseries may dry out faster than the soil surrounding the plant in the ground. Check as close to the center of the root ball as possible, being careful not to disturb the roots.

Read More About Planting Trees & Shrubs

Row covers on raised beds.
Row covers on raised beds. Photo by Pamm Cooper

Continuing Veggie Garden Success

  • Split garden chores up. If you weed for 30 minutes every night after dinner it can be much more enjoyable than having to spend hours of energy on it all in one go.
  • Keep an eye on the weather - plants will need more water and even possibly more support on hot or windy days. When tomatoes start to show up - heavy rains may cause them to split so picking them early can help to prevent losses.
  • Start scouting now! Look for signs of insects and eggs on the underside of leaves while plants are small and manageable.
  • If you have had squash vine borer, cabbage moths, or other types of flying insects - consider using row covers. Keep in mind you may have to hand pollinate if you use this method.

Planting to Attract Hummingbirds

Bat faced cuphea, Black & Blue Salvia, Solomons seal and Bleeding hearts up close.
From left to right: Bat Faced Cuphea, Black & Blue Salvia, Red Throated Hummingbird, Solomons Seal and Bleeding Hearts all attract hummingbirds.

Gardeners all over North America strive to create a garden space enticing enough for hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators to stop by on their travels.

  • Even though we all associate the color red with these little creatures, they actually see many more colors than the human eye can even detect. You can select other colors to make your garden enjoyable for you and your winged friends.
  • Flower shape matters! Hummingbirds like tubular or trumpet shaped flowers best.
  • Create a hummingbird haven by making sure there is always something in bloom in your garden. Gardeners can achieve this with long blooming annuals, a series of perennials that bloom one after another, or a combination of both.

We've helped to create a brief list of plants that will improve your chances of attracting hummingbirds into your garden spaces!

Annuals

  • Cuphea spp.
    • Mexican Heather
    • Bat Faced Heather
    • Cigar Plant
    • Firecracker Plant
    • Lantana
  • Salvia spp. 
    • Black & Blue
    • Rockin' Series
  • Torena 
  • Verbena 

Perennials

  • Delphinium
  • Dianthus 
    • Garden Pinks
  • Dicentra
    • Bleeding Heart
  • Hosta
  • Monarda spp. 
    • Monarda fistulosa Bergamont​​​​​​
    • Monarda didyma Jacob Cline

Learn More About Attracting Hummingbirds

View the 2024 Hummingbird Migration Map

Native Plant Highlight: Mountain Laurel

White Mountain Laurel flower up close.

Kalmia latifolia is broadleaf evergreen native to eastern North America and is found in open woods, edges of water or along woodland edges.

Flowers are white and are n bloom from late May to early June. It can form thickets in the woods, and the older specimens have rather picturesque gnarling of trunks and branches. There are multiple cultivars of this plant, some with very colorful flowers.

Learn More About Mountain Laurel

Native Insect: Elderberry Borer

Elderberry Borer

This native long-horned beetle is a spectacular, though uncommon. It can be found in natural areas where there are elderberry plants. It is large, has long serrated antennae, and has elytra that are orange and bright metallic blue. Larvae are borers of elderberry stems and roots but are not a serious pest in the wild where elderberry are numerous.

Learn More About the Red Admiral

Wildlife Highlight: Turtles

Our native turtles will be or are already looking for suitable places to lay their eggs. Sometimes they travel a distance from the water source they live in. As they travel, they are often a victim of motor vehicles as they cross roads at a less than rapid pace. If you decide to help a turtle cross the road, make sure to place it on the side of the road it was trying to get to, as females will only try to get to the side they were originally headed for. Pictured  is a spotted turtle on its way somewhere.

 

Learn More about Connecticut Turtles

CT Updates its Invasive Species List

The Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group has helped in the efforts to bring more plants to the state invasives list. This year, legislation was passed that will affect the sale and transport of: 

  • Bradford/Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) 
  • Quackgrass (Elymus repens)
  • Japanese angelica tree (Aralia elata)
  • Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)
  • Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) 

Additionally, Porcelainberry (Ampelopsis brevipedunculata) and Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), will be added to the state's prohibited from sale list as of October 2024.

 

In the News: NBC CT

CIPWG Official Announcement

Vegetable Gardening Resources

During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

5/10/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

Read Previous Pest Messages

New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024

UConn Fruit Update

The UConn Fruit Program publishes a fruit update, very similar to the IPM Vegetable Pest Alert. If you keep fruit trees, this may be a valuable resource for you! If you ever need help understanding how to apply these principles to your own home garden, let us know!

Read the 5/31 UConn Fruit Update

New England Tree Fruit Management Guide

June 2024 Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns in June will continue to lead us into the growing season!

May Temperature Map May Precipitation Outlook

 

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

  • Visit a farmers market - Find fresh produce, local goods, and all sorts of special treats all summer long.
  • Celebrate Father's Day June 16th.
  • Elizabeth Park is open daily for visitors and June is a great time to visit their historic Rose Garden. Join them June 16th for their Rose Sunday event to celebrate the 120th anniversary of their Rose Garden!
  • Celebrate Pollinator Week- Check out these virtual events happening June 17th - June 21st. Or get out and plant some pollinator friendly plants with your friends!
  • June 8th is Connecticut Open House Day- Over 200 local tourism attractions are open to the public with free or reduced admission.
  • Connecticut Historic Gardens Day - June 23rd. Visit one of many of Connecticut's Historic Gardens for tours, garden talks, and other events.
  • Attend a Juneteenth celebration! Juneteenth is observed on June 19th. Many towns and local organizations will host events and activities throughout the month to celebrate freedom, culture, and community. Keep an eye out for what's happening near you!

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

      May Gardening Tips

       

      • Plant vegetable starts after all danger of frost is gone and the soil is warm. This is usually the last week in May.
        • Direct seeding of beans, corn, cucurbits and melons can be done at this time as well.
        • Peppers & tomatoes like warm weather!
      • Put nets over ripening strawberries to protect them from birds and other wildlife.
      • Lily leaf beetles often show up first in spring on leaves of the crown imperial (Fritillaria). Check both sides of the leaves and down inside the center whorl of leaves. Also check the undersides of leaves for tiny orange eggs. The larvae have orange, brown, or greenish yellow bodies that are sometimes hidden under their excrement. Hand-picking the adults and the egg masses is the easiest control method.
      • Aphids and lace bugs will appear soon. Spray with water or use a low-toxicity insecticide to control them. Asian lady beetles are a beneficial insect that feed on aphids.
      • Remove any tree wraps or guards you placed on young trunks for winter protection.
      • Clematis vines like cool roots so apply mulch or plant a low-growing ground cover to shade the ground.
      • Use fresh potting soil in your containers as old soil has fewer nutrients and may contain harmful bacteria and fungi.
      • As night temperatures moderate into the 60's, move houseplants outdoors. Help them with the transition by putting them outside on warm days and bringing them in on when nights are too cold. Avoid putting them directly into full sun or windy locations.
      • Hummingbirds and orioles return to northern states by mid-May. Clean and refill feeders to attract these colorful birds to your backyard or fill hanging baskets with flowers that will attract them such as petunias, salvia, and fuchsia.
      • Aerate and moisten the compost pile to speed decomposition.

       

      More May Gardening Tips

      This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
      Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

       

      Luscious Lemony Herbs

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      By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

      With summer almost around the corner, many of us are setting in vegetables and herbs in hopes of preparing delectable culinary delights as these plants mature. Aromatic herbs bring amazing flavors and zing to all sorts of savory and sweet concoctions. A citrusy taste complements many dishes and some may not be aware of the wealth of lemon-flavored herbs that are widely available and also easy to grow.

      Lemon balm plants up close.
      Lemon Balm in the garden. Photo by dmp2024

      Long-lived lemon balm has been a staple in my herb garden for years. The attractive heart-shaped, scalloped leaves have a delicate scent when rubbed. Lemon balm is a hardy perennial native to Europe and has long been grown for its culinary and medicinal purposes. Fresh or dried leaves can be made into a calming tea that reputedly reduces anxiety. They can also be used in savory chicken dishes, to make pesto and even in baked goods. The lemon balm I grow is the species and it produces flowers that, like many members of the mint family, are loved by bees. A dilemma ensues as to whether to leave the blossoms for the pollinators and deal with the copious seedlings that pop up the following year, or cut the plant back to encourage more leaf production. Also, once lemon balm flowers, the leaves take on an unpleasant ‘soapy’ taste. Cultivars such as ‘Compacta’ are sterile, so no seeds are produced.

      As long as it is grown in a well-drained soil, lemon thyme is another long-lived herb. Growing just 4 to 6 inches tall, it’s an attractive plant in the herb garden, as an edging plant or even as a front border plant in perennial gardens. There are green, golden, and variegated leaved cultivars. Sprigs of lemon thyme can be dried but I like to use them fresh in chicken or rice dishes. The pinkish flowers usually open in July and are a big pollinator draw. Like many herbs, the best flavor is obtained collected before flowering. Plants respond well to regular trimmings.

      Lemon basil is an annual in our climate but easily grown from seed. Like all basils, it does best in a sunny, fertile site with adequate moisture. Plants also do great in containers. Leaves have a fresh lemony scent and taste with some hints of mint and spices. If growing from seed, one might want to try ‘Sweet Dani’, which was a 1998 All America Selection winner. Named cultivars such as ‘Mrs. Burns’ lemon basil usually have larger leaves than the seed grown types. Pinch out flower stalks as they form for better flavor or for a longer and more abundant harvest, cut off the top third of your plants about once a month. This encourages greater branching and leaf production. Lemon basil rice is my favorite way to use fresh leaves.

      Lemon grass in a garden bed.
      Lemon grass in the garden. Photo by dmp2024

      A tender perennial, lemon verbena, is mostly grown as a container plant and overwintered indoors. Plants have an exceptionally strong lemon scent and if happy, grow quite vigorously. They can easily get 3 or 4 feet tall and will grow into a small tree in warmer climates. Lemon verbena is native to South America, so it enjoys full sun and hot weather. Leaves can be used in potpourris, teas, and sweets.

      Another tender perennial best grown in a pot is the lemon scented geranium. There are several named cultivars with some, like ‘Mabel Gray’ and ‘Rober’s Lemon Rose’, having a stronger scent. Either buy plants or start from a friend’s cutting. The lovely scented wavy leaves can be placed in the bottom of a cake or loaf pan and then filled with batter and baked, imparting a lovely pattern and slight lemony flavor. They can be used fresh or dried for a variety of culinary uses and are also good in potpourris.

      Those enjoying Asian cooking are likely already familiar with the rich flavor of lemon grass. While it is native to India and only hardy to zone 10 to 12, it is a pretty vigorous grower that would do well in either a garden bed or container. Reportedly plants may reach 2 to 3 feet in height by midsummer if kept well-watered. The leaves as well as the bulbous base of

      the stem are used in recipes. A few stalks can be removed as needed for cooking. Cut back potted plants to 6 inches before overwintering in a sunny window indoors.

      For more information about growing lemon scented herbs or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

      Tying Climbing Roses

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      By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

      Climbing roses tied to a vinyl fence.
      Photo by Marie Woodward

      Climbing and rambling roses are a beautiful addition to any garden, adding height and depth to your outdoor space. These types of roses require proper training and tying to ensure that they grow in the desired direction, produce the most blooms and don’t become tangled or unruly.  Follow this guide on how to tie climbing and rambling roses to get the best results. 

      Gloves, wire, hooks and pliers laid out on a table.
      These tools are needed to train your climbing roses. Photo by Marie Woodward

      For materials, one would need some twine or soft plant ties, a sharp pair of pruning shears, sturdy long-sleeved, thorn resistant garden gloves. Also, some wire and tools to secure to a trellis, fence or other structure may be necessary.

      Climbing roses have two types of canes. Main canes are stems that originate from the base of the rose giving it its structure and support. They are also referred to as leaders. Lateral canes originate from the main cane. It is the lateral canes that produce the flowers and add volume to the shrub. In general, main canes are not pruned unless they are diseased or dead.

      Before you start attaching the plant to a trellis, make sure that your rose is properly pruned. Removing any dead or diseased canes will encourage healthy growth. Cut back any wild or overly long shoots to create a manageable framework for tying. Starting with this step will allow for more control as you move through the process of tying.

      Supportive wiring, better known as strain wires, helps to promote flowering. They hold the main canes at a 45–90-degree angle. These angles encourage lateral canes to flush and produce more abundant flowers.  

      A rose cane tied to wire supports on a vinyl fence.
      Attach your rose canes to strain wires with soft ties. Photo by Marie Woodward

      If you're training your roses against a wall or fence, attach the horizontal strain wires to the structure, spacing them about 12-18 inches apart vertically and 5 feet apart horizontally.

       If you have a vinyl fence you can use vinyl safe hooks and secure the wire with a turnbuckle vertically, spacing them about two feet apart to avoid drilling holes in the vinyl material.

      Using twine or soft plant ties, attach the rose canes to the support structure at regular intervals, starting about 1.5 feet from the ground. Tie them securely but not too tightly  You want to allow room for the canes to grow and expand. Avoid fishing lines or other rigid materials. Using the wrong ties or tying too tightly could lead to cane injury.

      As the roses push new growth, continue to tie the new main canes to the support structure.  Continue to guide them in the desired direction, with those 45–90-degree angles as a guide.

      Regularly check your roses and adjust the ties as needed.  Ensure that they remain secure but not too tight. Prune any wild or unruly shoots and remove any dead or diseased wood to keep your roses healthy and under control.

      By following these steps and regularly maintaining your climbing rose, you’ll create a stunning vertical display that adds beauty and depth to your garden. While this guide provides good tips on for starting and maintaining younger climbing roses, older roses that have been neglected may need restorative measures. If you need more information on climbing roses or any other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu

      Tips on Selecting a Flowering Tree

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      By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

      If there’s a spot for a spring flowering tree in your landscape, now is the time to look at the trees showing off their floral splendor. Do you find one or two particularly appealing. Take note of the various flower colors, tree shapes and sizes. Once you’ve selected an alluring flowering tree or two, do a bit of homework.

      Many of the spring flowering trees have several cultivars and they may vary in flower color, leaf variegation, mature height and width, fall color and so on. Pick the one that fits your location. Will the plant be in sun or shade? Is it going to be positioned as a specimen tree or incorporated into a foundation planting or a border? Will it add multi-season interest with attractive foliage, fruits or seed pods, or interesting bark? What insect or disease problems is it prone to?

      A redbud tree in flower on the UConn Campus
      A redbud tree in flower on the UConn Campus. Photo by dmp2024

      Redbuds (Cercis canadensis) are bursting with blossoms right now, at least on the Storrs campus. The extremely abundant, purple-pink peas shaped blossoms practically cover the tree. At maturity, trees reach about 20 to 30 feet tall with a slightly larger width, ending up in a roundish shape with a flatter top. After flowering, heart-shaped leaves develop while faded blossoms give birth to small, flattened legume seed pods that contrast nicely with the plant’s dark, scaly bark. Cultivars are available with white or more true pink flowers, variegated foliage, weeping forms and attractive fall foliage colors. Redbuds tolerate full to part sun and well-drained soil but avoid hot, dry locations for best establishment and flowering.

      Dogwoods are a favorite of many. Their pink, white or red colored bracts dazzle especially in filtered sunlight. Dogwoods are native to the eastern and central United States where they are usually found as an understory tree. Most cultivars grow to about 30 feet in height with about the same width at maturity. The large 4-inch blossoms mature to form shiny red fruit much loved by birds. These exceptionally beautiful plants favor a cool, moist, acidic soil with adequate amounts of organic matter. Dogwoods struggle when faced with heat stress, drought, and pollutants so site carefully.

      Another flowering tree that also does best in more natural settings, especially those with moist soils is our native shadbush or serviceberry (Amelancher canadensis). The name, shadbush, comes from the fact that this plant typically blooms when the shad return to fresh water to spawn, usually right about now. This plant can be grown as a single stemmed specimen or a multi-stemmed large shrub. Mature trees reach about 20 feet in height but there are shorter, more shrub-like cultivars. Shadbush sports white flowers in 2-to-3-inch racemes. Dark fruits are attractive to many animals plus both the gold autumn foliage and gray bark are very attractive.

      Carolina silverbells in flower.
      Carolina silverbells in flower. Photo by dmp2024

      A standout for me this time of year is Carolina silverbells (Halesia carolina). A multitude of white, bell-shaped blooms adorn the branches of this 20-to-40-foot tree. Although it is native to southeast U.S., it is hardy to zone 5. Autumn color is not notable, but the tan 4-winged fruit persist well into the winter and stand out against the stark winter landscape and silvery grey bark. Be sure to check out ‘UConn Wedding Bells’, a very floriferous cultivar discovered by UConn Plant Science professor, Dr. Mark Brand. It has a smaller, rounder form with flowers larger than the species.

      The star magnolia (M. stellata), as its Latin name implies, is definitely a stellar landscape plant. Gorgeous, lightly fragrant 3-to-4-inch blossoms grace the dense cluster of stems. Mature plants reach up to about 20 feet with a slightly narrower width. Plants do produce red fruits but most drop before they mature. I was delighted to find a seedling after I lost the parent tree in that late October snowstorm we had a number of years ago.

      Other worthy spring flowering trees to consider include the flowering crabapples and cherries that have many exciting and lovely cultivars. A great place for information on woody plants is the UConn Plant Database (www.plantdatabase.uconn.edu). If you need more information on selecting a tree or any plant for your landscape or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

       

      Eastern Tent Caterpillars

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      By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

      Eastern Tent Caterpillar Tents in a tree

      Eastern tent caterpillars, Malacosoma Americanum, are native to North America and are noticed mainly because of the silken tents they build in the forks and crotches of trees in early spring. While most tents are found on black cherries, they can also be found on other trees such as apple and crabapple. They are readily visible since tents are constructed before leaves fully expand. There is only one generation per year.

      These caterpillars are hairy and dark when small, and later instars have two yellow lines along the back. A white medial stripe goes along the sides of the body, and this is flanked by two yellow lines. There are blue blotches along its side as well. Bottom hairs on the body are rusty brown. Forest tent caterpillars are also hairy, but they do not make tents, and their bodies

      are blue with white dots on the back. Handling should be done with gloves on as some people may have sensitivity to the hairs.

      Egg masses are black, laid on small branches of host trees the previous year, and the egg mass rings around the branch. Sometimes they are mistaken for small black knot galls. 150-300 eggs may be in each egg mass. Caterpillars typically hatch as black cherry leaves begin to expand the next spring. Caterpillars feed on leaves and buds and rest communally by day in the nests they construct from silk.

      While they can almost defoliate small trees, these caterpillars usually have completed their feeding stage in time for the trees to put out new leaves by early summer. The more tents there are on small trees, though, the greater number of caterpillars there are, so damage will increase.

      While protected from many predators while inside the tents, there are birds that will tear the tents apart to feed on the caterpillars inside. Both the black-billed and the yellow-billed cuckoos are known for their ability to do this, and native vireos will also seek out and rip apart the tents.

      Mature caterpillars leave the host plants in early summer in search of suitable sites to pupate within a silken cocoon they will spin. Moths emerge later that year. The moths have a fluffy light brown body, and the wings have three bands with the center being narrower than the outer bands and a lighter brown in color. The center band is bordered on both sides by thin, creamy bands.

      Eastern Tent Caterpillar Tents in a tree

      Occasionally, eastern tent caterpillars have outbreak years where large numbers of the tents can be seen on the same tree. Fresh buds may also be consumed if trees are severely defoliated. When found on residential properties, tents can be swept apart by rakes or brooms, exposing caterpillars to predators, or knocking them off the trees. If warranted, foliage can be sprayed with a biological product called Bacillis thuringiensis subspecies, Kurstaki, or BtK, which only harms caterpillars and not other insects. Caterpillars will ingest the product as they feed on the foliage.

      Most healthy trees can tolerate severe defoliation from eastern tent caterpillars. If concerned, look for egg masses in the winter on trees that had been damaged the previous spring. Remove them, if possible, or crush them, or prune the branch off below where the egg mass is found. Or let them be if the trees appear to have recovered. Letting nature take its course with native insects on native trees can often benefit birds and other predators. Do not confuse them with the notorious gypsy moth caterpillars which do not make silken tents or nests of any kind.

      If you have a question about tent caterpillars or other gardening topics, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr,uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

       

       

       

      Container Gardening, Insect Habitats an other May News

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      May is for Container Gardening, Healthy Insect Habitats & Gardening with Climate Change in Mind

      "Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of perspiration." 

      -Louise Erickson

      Container Gardening

      Different kinds of container gardens
      Gardening in containers takes all forms. Photos by H.Zidack

      May is a mad dash to get our spaces in shape for outdoor entertaining and vegetable and flower gardening. Container gardens have become a universal tool for gardeners of all types as they can meet all sorts of needs.

      • They allow plant lovers in rental spaces to enjoy planting with minimal impact
      • They provide great accessibility to gardeners of all ages and abilities
      • They allow temporary solutions while larger projects are in progress
      • They give gardeners an opportunity to plant where soil is poor or where rocks/tree stumps prevent them from digging into the ground
      • They give us an easier opportunity to change our minds! Experiment with color, texture, and style - if you don't like it, change it the next season!
      We've seen this method come a long way in the past few years It's being used for ornamental plants and fruit and vegetable plants, alike. Some even mix the two in an effort to bring both productivity and beauty to a small space.

      The best thing about it, is that it doesn't take up a lot of space, time, or energy to keep going. And new advances are being made all the time as new "container friendly" varieties are hitting the market for all types of plants.

      We have a few suggestions for you if you're considering container gardening this spring:
      • Many gardeners refer to the "Thriller/Filler/Spiller" method of design where a central plant is surrounded by plants that will fill in and cascade over the edge of the container.
      • Give your plants enough space to perform well in their container. This is incredibly important for vegetables and herbs that will be producing for you!
      • Use soilless potting media in your containers.
      • Pre-made mixes (sometimes called "recipes") can be found in larger drop-in pots that can be placed into a decorative container when you bring it home! Hanging baskets can be another alternative - just remove the hangers.
      • Select an appropriate container. The material and size of the planter you choose should be something you consider. Any plants that need to go in for the winter should be in planters that can be easily moved or carried inside. Additionally, different materials need different maintenance and care from season to season.

      Healthy Habitats for Beneficial Insects

      Butterfly in a garden

      Creating a garden or habitat within your space to support beneficial insects can be the most effective thing you can do if you have the space. Select plants that are known to support the various life stages of insects you hope to encourage in your garden. For example, parsley is a great herb to host swallowtail caterpillars.

      A thriving garden will host beneficial insects including pollinators, predators and parasitoids. Additionally, a few "bad" insects in the mix provide a food source for some of these beneficials and ensure you have a healthy balance in your garden ecosystem. Never panic at the first sight of trouble. Investigate further and monitor a problem as it develops. Always use Integrated Pest Management practices when considering treatment for any pest or disease you find in the garden.

      Beneficial Insects in the Home Garden

       

      In recent years, the concept of "insect hotels" has been increasing in popularity. It is important to realize that these structures are considered a fantastic tool in a tool box of many things that are needed to preserve these populations of pollinators, parasitoids and predatory beneficial insects. They can be great educational tools or supplemental habitat when absolutely necessary. Native insects are well adapted to finding shelter in gardens and habitats locally created by you, your neighbors, and surrounding areas.

      If you choose to host one of these in your garden, be aware that it is not a 'set it and forget it' type of garden decoration. Take all the precautions to ensure that you are maintaining a healthy habitat by cleaning out nesting each year, monitoring for signs of distress, and purchasing sustainable and safe materials for the insects to be using.

       

      More about Insect Hotels

      Gardening with Climate Change in Mind

      The Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture at UConn has been spreading the word about gardening in a changing environment.

      Dr. Mark Brand has been working to develop cultivars that are equipped to adapt with changing environmental conditions and stressors like drought and heat. His lab also works to improve native shrubs to help with their adaptability in our changing climate as well.

      Read More

      Dawn Pettinelli from the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab & Home and Garden Education Center joined Catherine Shen & Charlie Nardozzi on Connecticut Public to discuss ecological gardening and strategies for gardening for the environment.

      Listen to the Podcast

      Native Plant Highlight: Pinxsterbloom Azalea

      Pinxsterbloom Azalea flower up close

      Rhododendron periclymenoides is a native deciduous shrub found in wet woodlands, stream and pond edges and sometimes in open areas where soils are damp. Showy clusters of pink flowers appear in May before leaves expand. This native makes a good addition to a shade garden where it will be out of the afternoon sun. Hummingbirds, butterflies and bees frequently visit the flowers.

      Learn More about Rhododendron perilymenoides

      Native Butterfly: Red Admiral

      This common native butterfly is one of several migratory species, and one of the first to migrate north in early spring. They can be found in moist areas near woodlands, and they visit garden flowers from spring through late summer. The most common host plant of the caterpillars is stinging nettles, which is one reason most people never see them. When the butterfly folds its wings, it reveals the undersides that resemble a Jackson Pollock painting. Red admiral's often land on people to get salts from sweat.

      Learn More About the Red Admiral

      Native Bird: Mallards

      Mallard ducks normally lay 4-14 eggs between March and June and the young are on their own after 8 weeks. A maintenance worker at a golf course stopped traffic so this mallard and her ducklings could safely cross a busy street on their way to a reservoir. The nest was an eighth of a mile away on a grassy pond edge.

       

      Learn More about Mallards

      Vegetable Gardening Resources

      During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

      While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

      If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

      4/26/2024 Vegetable Pest Alert

      Read Previous Pest Messages

      New England Vegetable Management Guide 2023-2024

      May 2024 Weather Outlook

      A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns will continue to shape this winter season. 

      May Temperature Map May Precipitation Outlook

       

      Upcoming Events and Things to Do

      • Visit a farmers market! Many start opening in May and continue throughout the summer.
      • Attend a Memorial Day Celebration, Memorial Day is observed May 27th this year!  Most towns in the state host their own parades and activities on the long weekend to honor those who bravely served and sacrificed for our nation.
      • Get out and garden! The growing season is finally here!

      Educational Opportunities & Workshops

        May Gardening Tips

         

        • Plant vegetable starts after all danger of frost is gone and the soil is warm. This is usually the last week in May.
          • Direct seeding of beans, corn, cucurbits and melons can be done at this time as well.
          • Peppers & tomatoes like warm weather!
        • Put nets over ripening strawberries to protect them from birds and other wildlife.
        • Lily leaf beetles often show up first in spring on leaves of the crown imperial (Fritillaria). Check both sides of the leaves and down inside the center whorl of leaves. Also check the undersides of leaves for tiny orange eggs. The larvae have orange, brown, or greenish yellow bodies that are sometimes hidden under their excrement. Hand-picking the adults and the egg masses is the easiest control method.
        • Aphids and lace bugs will appear soon. Spray with water or use a low-toxicity insecticide to control them. Asian lady beetles are a beneficial insect that feed on aphids.
        • Remove any tree wraps or guards you placed on young trunks for winter protection.
        • Clematis vines like cool roots so apply mulch or plant a low-growing ground cover to shade the ground.
        • Use fresh potting soil in your containers as old soil has fewer nutrients and may contain harmful bacteria and fungi.
        • As night temperatures moderate into the 60's, move houseplants outdoors. Help them with the transition by putting them outside on warm days and bringing them in on when nights are too cold. Avoid putting them directly into full sun or windy locations.
        • Hummingbirds and orioles return to northern states by mid-May. Clean and refill feeders to attract these colorful birds to your backyard or fill hanging baskets with flowers that will attract them such as petunias, salvia, and fuchsia.
        • Aerate and moisten the compost pile to speed decomposition.

         

        More May Gardening Tips

        This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
        Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

         

        DIY – Grow Flowers for Cutting

        Posted on by

        By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

        Cut flower arrangment
        Fresh cut flowers - Photo by dmp2024

        Do you just love fresh flower arrangements for the table or even that single bloom in a vase by your bedside? Wouldn’t it feel great to just stroll out your back door, clip some blossoms, bring them inside and enjoy their beauty? There’s no reason that you can’t. Even a small yard or garden space can yield blossoms for cutting.

        While many of us have flowering perennials and even woody plants that make for great arrangements, perhaps a dedicated cut flower planting would provide many more stems for cutting and not create any empty spaces in our garden designs. When planning your cut flower garden, first decide where it should go. The majority of blooming plants need at least 6 to 8 hours of sun each day, a well-drained, fertile soil and adequate water during dry spells. As with all garden plants, a soil test is a great way to find out what is needed to add to soils before planting but without a soil test, follow the directions on fertilizer packages.

        There’s still time to prepare new beds for cut flower plantings but another alternative would be to turn over part of the vegetable garden to cut flower production. Probably your vegetable garden already has great soil and is located in a sunny area.

        The hardest part of designing a cut flower garden is selecting what plants to grow. There are so many beautiful and exciting flowers to choose from. A good suggestion is to grow easy flowers at first and then progress on to more demanding ones. Another important factor to consider is which flowers need to be purchased as transplants (or started inside earlier under lights) and which can be easily grown by sowing seeds directly in the garden. While there are a number of flowering plants that can be started by direct seeding, you’ll get faster blooms if you purchase or grow your own transplants.

        Zinnias planted in a row
        Zinnias - Photo by dmp2024

        Some that I typically grow each year from seed are zinnias, the tall African marigolds, cosmos, bachelor buttons, calendulas, nasturtiums, and some sunflowers. Cool weather calendulas and bachelor buttons can be sown now but wait until later in the month to plant the rest. A number of cutting annuals will self-seed if blossoms are allowed to mature and the beds are not heavily mulched. Some that spring up for me include ageratums, verbena, ammi, nigella, and wheat celosia. If you have some known self-seeders, wait a bit longer to prepare or till beds to see what sprouts.

        Those best purchased as transplants include rudbeckia, snapdragons, cleome, stock, strawflowers, globe amaranth, tithonia, asters and amaranth. Some might have tiny seeds or be slower to germinate or just need a longer time until they produce flowers so starting with transplants may be a good option.

        Two annual bulbs that are great for cutting are gladioli and dahlias. A few glad corms can be planted every other week until about mid-June to provide a summer full of spiky, colorful blooms. Dahlia tubers planted mid-May generally start producing blooms by late July but continue until a heavy frost.

        There really are quite a few potential cut flower candidates to choose from. Feel free to select whatever colors and flower forms appeal to you most. From a designer’s viewpoint, consider what colors would be most compatible with where you want to place arrangements indoors. Also, whether making more formal arrangements or informal bouquets, flower shape plays a prominent role. Often the most attractive arrangements are filled with an assortment of shapes featuring a focal flower, spiky exclamation points, mounded shapes to hold the arrangement together, greenery for filling spaces and delicate airy springs to lighten the mood. I find mints, artemisia, and ferns make good fillers while grasses, kalimeris, boltonia, and white wood asters provide an airy touch.

        The majority of annual flowers do fine at about a 9 by 9 inch spacing so you can pack them in pretty close. Do note that for copious blooms, a fertile soil and adequate water are essential. Maintenance also includes dead-heading, or removal of spent flowers to encourage the production of more blooms. Keep an eye out for plant pests as well.

        Even beginning gardeners can set aside some space to grow beautiful flowers for enjoyment indoors. Try out a few this year, make notes on their performance and change up the plant rooster as they gain your approval or not.

        For cultural information on growing various species of cut flowers or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

         

         

         

        Gardening for Climate Change with Connecticut Public

        Posted on by

        Connecticut Public: Where We Live - 4/26/2024
        This year, we're gardening with climate change in mind

        Dawn Pettinelli from the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab & Home and Garden Education Center joins Catherine Shen & Charlie Nardozzi on Connecticut Public to discuss ecological gardening and strategies for gardening for the environment.

        Start Now For a Rosy Summer

        Posted on by

        By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

        A rose shrub in full bloom
        Proper care of your roses will give you lots of blooms. Photo by dmp2024

        The warmer days of spring will soon be upon us and it is time to think about spring rose care. Any winter protection such as mounded soil, mulch, leaves or rose cones that were placed around grafted bushes should be removed. Release any stems that were tied for winter protection. Fertilize your plants when new growth sprouts with a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or and natural organic equivalent at the rate recommended by a soil test or follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package. Generally, the fertilizer is sprinkled around the base of the plant and gently worked into the top of the soil.

        Repeat blooming roses are heavy feeders and ideally should be fertilized monthly through July. Stop fertilizing at this time as later fertilizations may result in tender new growth late in the season that may not have time to harden off properly. Roses that bloom only once in June are usually only fertilized once in the spring. These include many ramblers and climbers, species roses and antique varieties. Rose books often recommend a dose of Epsom salts for each rose to supply magnesium. If you use a dolomitic limestone to modify the soil pH, however, the plants will most likely have enough magnesium available to them and additional magnesium will not improve growth or branching. Note that according to the American Rose Society, roses prefer slightly acidic soil so strive for a pH between 6.0 and 6.5..

        climbing hybrid tea rose ‘Climbing Tangerine.’
        This climbing hybrid tea rose is called ‘Climbing Tangerine.’ Photo by dmp2024

        Most types of roses benefit from a spring pruning with the exception of climbing roses which are generally pruned immediately following flowering. Roses are pruned to improve their appearance, to remove diseased or dead wood and to increase the quantity and quality of flowers.

        Polyanthas, floribundas and shrub roses do not require much pruning. Any canes that are damaged or broken should be removed as well as canes that are rubbing together. If just the tip of the stem is winter killed, cut back to sound wood just above a healthy bud. Rose bushes that are really overgrown can have about one-third of their canes removed from the base.

        Hybrid teas and grandifloras usually require more severe pruning. After eliminating all dead and damaged wood, cut back to 18 to 24 inches. Make your pruning cuts at a slant slightly above a bud, preferably one oriented away from the center of the plant.

        If your roses are grafted, it is also important to remove any suckers arising from the rootstock.

        Spring is a great time to add a few more roses to your garden. Roses are soil either bare-root or as container plants. Those sold in containers can be planted either in partial leaf or full leaf. Mail ordered bare-root stock, however, should be planted when it is still dormant. It is best to plant bare-root roses as soon as you get them. If planting has to be delayed for a day or two, remoisten the packing material and store in a cool, shady location. When it is time to plant bare-root stock, unpack the plant and place the roots in warm water for an hour or two. Cut off any dead or injured parts and plant immediately after soaking.

        Roses require a minimum of 6 hours of sun each day for maximum bloom. An area with good air circulation will cut down on disease problems. Soil type is not as important as drainage. Roses will not tolerate wet feet.

        When planting grafted plants, set the bud union, which is the point where a rose cultivar is grafted to the root stock, about one inch below the soil level. Roses require about one inch of water per week. If at all possible do not get the leaves wet when watering as this promotes the spread of diseases such as black spot.

        Roses benefit from the application of an organic mulch like shredded bark, pine needles or cocoa bean hulls. Mulches not only keep weeds down but help conserve moisture. If you have any questions on roses or other gardening topics, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr,uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.