2026 Hours

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center is open 8:30 AM – 4:00 PM Monday – Friday

Our office is closed for lunch from 12:30 PM -1:30 PM.

For walk-in visits, please visit no later than 3:30PM, so that we can ensure we are giving you the highest quality service that we can provide.

Our sample cooler (immediately outside our office) is always available for drop offs during lunch and outside of regular business hours. 

Any anticipated changes to our schedule will be shared on our website in advance.

These hours are effective Jan 5, 2026 – March 1, 2026

Fungus Gnats, Invasive Plants, Wildlife, and other January News

January 2026

“Winter, a lingering season, is a time to gather golden moments, embark upon a sentimental journey, and enjoy every idle hour"

— ­­John Boswell 

Frustrated with Fungus Gnats?

Someone once said "There are two types of people in this world. People who have fungus gnats, and liars!"

It's a common issue that almost everyone has had to manage at one point or another with their houseplants. These tiny pests feed on fungus that grows on decaying root tissue in the soil, often caused by overwatering.  While they may occasionally eat plant material, more often they're an indicator of a larger issue.

Scout often for an infestation, and try to let the soil dry out between waterings when possible to help keep them at bay. Chemical solutions out there are frequently short term solutions for infestations. They should be used in severe cases alongside cultural management practices for best results.


Scout for Invasives this Winter!

Dry grasses with feathery tops sway against a backdrop of leafless trees and a clear blue sky.
Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Invasive Phragmites asutralis (Common Reed) is especially easy to spot during the winter months while most other wetland plants collapse and become nondescript brownish patches on the landscape.

Invasive phragmites remains, standing tall in dense stands with rigid stems and large, persistent seed heads. This rhizomatous grass grows 5 to 10 feet tall, which makes it easy to spot along the frozen edges of wetlands and waterbodies. The winter visibility makes this an ideal time for landowners and managers to map infestations or plan future control efforts.

A tree with a twisted trunk and bulging knot-like structure, being strangled by invasive vines, surrounded by leafless trees and sparse vegetation.
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Another common observation at this time of the year is choking and girdling damage caused by invasive vines like Asiatic or Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus). By bringing pruners with you as you scout, you can immediately respond to any damage you see from these vines on your property. 


Out In Nature

For Connecticut Bird Enthusiasts

UConn has worked in partnership with many organizations and agencies across the state to develop an online Bird Atlas. This project has been in the works since 2018 and is continuing to develop.

The atlas contains information on birds found in Connecticut and has a block map showing where they are found. They are currently working on species accounts which have specific information on individual birds such as the whistling ducks shown in the image. 

CT Bird Atlas

Three ducks with bright pink bills, gray heads, and reddish-brown bodies stand in shallow water. One duck spreads its wings wide, while the other two are lower, with one drinking or foraging.

Image © Russ Smiley

False Turkeytail Fungus

Also called the golden curtain crust, Stereum ostrea is a plant pathogen and a wood decay fungus. Ostera means “oyster” and aptly describes its shell- like fruiting body which is made up of concentric circles of many colors.

It resembles the Trametes versicolor which is called the turkey tail fungus. Look for all turkey tail fungi on dead wood throughout the winter months on branches, logs, stumps of trees, especially of oaks, maples and elms. These are beneficial, aiding in the decomposition of dead wood and in recycling nutrients.  

About False Turkey Tail

Cluster of bracket fungi with green and brown bands on a decaying log, surrounded by moss and fallen leaves.

Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office


Native Plant: Winterberry Holly

Clusters of bright red berries with elongated green leaves against a blurred outdoor background.

Winterberry holly in autumn. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Clusters of bright red berries on thin, leafless branches against a muted background.

Winterberry holly in winter. Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Bringing a pop of red to late fall and winter landscapes, winterberries (Ilex verticillata) bear brightly colored fruit which grows in clusters along its branches. This deciduous holly is native to eastern North America. Winterberries are often grown around ponds or swampy areas, as they are well-suited for moist, acidic soil environments.

As their common name implies, this type of holly is famed for its ability to produce vibrant red fruit which brightens otherwise dreary winter landscapes. To achieve this result, proper cross-pollination of plants must occur during blooming seasons. Winterberries are dioecious – meaning they have separate male and female plants. Female plants are capable of producing berries only after being fertilized by a nearby male plant. Generally, male plants can pollinate 20 female plants when they are within a 40-foot distance of each other.

Certain cultivars of female and male plants are paired with one another according to the compatibility of their blooming times.

Learn About Winterberry

Berry Good Pick for Winter Interest

The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List


Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

The Soil Life Under the Snow

As we inch towards shorter days, colder nights, and snow covered grounds, almost everyone is bundling up in heavy coats and winter boots, but what about life within the soil? You might think that soil life abruptly stops after the first snowflake, but that is often not the case.

Moles live in tunnels underground throughout the year, however, they do not hibernate and instead dig deeper to expand their tunnels in order to find food and protect themselves from the cold. Worms burrow deep into the ground, wind into a ball, cover themselves in a protective
slime coating, and enter a dormant state called (a)estivation. Microbes, a small but mighty community in soil, are still active during winter, and some bacteria even produce a chemical similar to antifreeze! Soil contains extremely diverse and essential communities, and just because the ground is freezing doesn’t mean they do!

By Zaira O’Leary, Soil Science Master’s Student, UConn PSLA


Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

    Temperature map

Precipitation Outlook

 


Upcoming Events and Things to Do


Educational Opportunities & Workshops

    • Basic Garden Maintenance: A Year-Long, Month by Month Plan - January 19, Vernon CT, 7-9pm

      Join the Vernon Garden Club for a presentation and discussion detailing how to properly care for your perennial gardens all year long!
      This free event is open to all, including non-members and non-residents of Vernon. No pre-registration required.

      First Congregational Church of Vernon
      695 Hartford Turnpike, Vernon, CT 06066
      Questions? VernonCTGardenClub@gmail.com

    Join Us at Upcoming Talks

    Walk on the Wild Side with Pamm Cooper
    January 7, 2026 - 6:00 PM
    Hosted by the Whiton Branch Library
    100 North Main Street
    Manchester, CT 06042

      The CT Flower & Garden Show 2026

      The UConn Home Garden Education Office, along with our partners in the UConn Plant and Soil Health Center will be hosting a booth again this year at the flower show!

      Come visit us in the same location (Booth 417 & 419) to ask gardening questions, have your soil pH tested, and learn about our new facility opening in spring of 2026! 

      February 19th - 22nd
      Connecticut Convention Center
      100 Columbus Blvd.
      Hartford, CT 06103

      Volunteers at the HGEC Booth at the CT Flower & Garden Show 2025

      Our staff will be presenting the following seminars throughout the weekend:

      Thursday, February 19

      • Invasive Plants In Your Garden, Lauren Kurtz 
        • 11:00 AM, Room 11 

      Friday, February 20

      • Wild Mushrooms Just for Fun, Pamm Cooper
        • 12:30 PM, Room 11

      Saturday, February 21

      • Goal Orientated Gardening, Heather Zidack
        • 12:30 PM, Room 11

      Sunday, February 22

      • Soil Test to Success: Simple Numbers, Better Gardens, Avishesh Neupane
        • 11:00 AM, Room 11

      January Gardening Tips

        • Check for frost heaving on perennials during thaws and press back into place. Cover the crowns with extra mulch as necessary.
        • Start seeds of pansies, dusty miller, browallia, begonias, snapdragons, and delphiniums indoors under lights.
        • Do not wait until late in the winter to order seeds as many of the seed companies most popular varieties sell out early.
        • To determine how many seeds to order, map out your garden on graph paper, allowing adequate space between rows and ample room for vining crops such as pumpkins and winter squash. 
        • At month's end, start seeds of onions, leeks, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower indoors under lights. 
        • Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects. 
        • Don't walk on frozen grass, especially if there is no snow cover. Without the protection of snow, grass blades are easily broken causing die-back in your lawn.
        • Avoid using salt to melt ice on driveways and sidewalks which may end up on the lawn, when possible use sand or kitty litter. This will help prevent salt damage to plant roots.
        • Prune away storm-damaged branches promptly to prevent tearing of the bark. When pruning large limbs, always undercut first. This means to cut from the bottom up, one-third of the way through the limb, then finish by cutting from the top. The undercut keeps the limb from splitting and breaking off, which could damage the trunk and become an entryway for insects and diseases. Do not cut flush to the trunk as the collar or enlarged base of a branch produces hormones that help heal wounds. 
        • Bring pruning tools inside and clean them for the upcoming season. Disassemble hand pruners, and loppers. Sharpen the blades, oil the levers, and remove any rust.
        • Whether you're shoveling snow, hauling firewood, out for a winter hike or playing in the snow make sure you're taking the proper safety precautions while out in the elements this winter!


        We're Moving in April 2026

        New Location: 
        George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center
        University of Connecticut
        Roy E. Jones Building Annex
        27 Manter Road, Storrs, CT, 06269
        (In front of UConn Dairy Bar)
        Map of the Jones Annex across from the dairy bar

        UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Horticultural support and education for home garden issues related to plant health, garden pests, general plant care, and more.

        UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

        Diagnosis of plant health and pest issues for commercial growers and the public.

        UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

        Soil chemistry testing including pH, nutrients, salinity, lime and fertilizer recommendations, and many others.

        UConn Turf Diagnostic Lab

        Turf diagnostics for golf courses, athletic fields, or other commercial turfgrass sites

        What Stays the Same

        We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

        What Gets Better

        Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

        • One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
        • Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
        • Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events
        Watch for More Information Soon
        s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

        This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
        Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Holly McNamara, Zaira O’Leary

        Gifts for the Gardener on Your List

        By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        A decorated Christmas tree with white lights and various ornaments, surrounded by wrapped presents on a red tree skirt.
        Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        If you have a gardener in your life, last minute holiday shopping can be tough. Each year, we provide a list of suggestions that might help you as you’re shopping. For 2025, we are considering gardener comfort and adaptability.

        Gardening Gloves

        While it seems like a trivial gift and your gardener may already have a good pair, gardening gloves are a great gift! It’s always nice to have an extra pair in case your hands get wet working in muddy soil, or if you manage to lose them. Our gloves wear over time, and can thin, stretch, and decline in quality as seasons change. While any pair may be helpful as a backup pair, you might get bonus points for finding your gardener’s favorite brand or style. These are readily available in hardware stores or year-round garden centers.

        UV Protective Clothing

        With the improvement of UV protective textiles, gardeners can find them in all sorts of forms. UV shirts, gloves/sleeves, and even hats are available to help your gardener stay protected from the sun. This is great for anyone who loves being outdoors, but especially those who may have extra sensitivities to sunlight. While not a direct substitute for sunscreen, they can help provide a little extra protection. I find that these often are best found online, though I have seen individual items at independent garden centers, sporting stores, and gift shops throughout the state.

        Cooling Towels

        Athletic cooling towels are meant to help keep you cool. Soak them in cool water, wring out the excess and wear as a scarf or drape over your shoulders. The evaporative cooling from the towel helps you stay cool even during the warmest summer days. While they’re usually found with the sports gear, your gardener will love them, too!

        Waterproof Shoes

        Nobody likes wet feet, especially in the garden. Help the gardener you love stay dry by gifting them with a pair of waterproof shoes! These come in many forms such as rubber rain boots, rubber clogs, or even waterproof sneakers. They can be found at sporting goods stores, shoe stores, or online.

        Shop Smart

        There are many gifts beyond these recommendations that may suit the gardener in your life. As we approach the last-minute shopping season, keep these tips in mind to help you find the perfect gift.  

        Look carefully at the label of any seed mixes, seed bombs, or other plantable gifts, especially if you are intending to gift native seeds. Many of these mixes sold across the country may provide plants native to North America, but not necessarily native to our region. The label provides a percentage breakdown of every species of seed included. Cross reference to ensure that they are native to our region.  

        Purchase durable tools and equipment over novelty items. Give your gardener gifts that they will be able to use for years to come. While gloves with claws to help you dig are fun and unique, a good trowel will stay part of your gardener’s arsenal for many years.  

        Consider your gardener’s interests to help guide your gifting. If your loved one plants more flowers than vegetables, a garden hod might not be the right fit for them. If they hate weeding, a gift to make the chore easier might be a great fit! Think about the ways the person you’re gifting likes to spend time in their garden and tailor your gift to them.  

        Don’t rule out experiential gifts just because it’s winter. Gardeners who wish to continue to learn and spend time with like-minded green thumbs may enjoy a workshop, class, or conference. Many regional garden shows (including the CT Flower & Garden Show) take place during the winter. Local garden clubs, libraries, or garden centers may also offer educational workshops that you could purchase tickets for in advance.  

        Shop smart. While we can’t recommend any brands or specific places to shop, use your smart consumer skills when looking for these or any other gifts this season. Reading reviews, using trusted retailers, and balancing quality with price will help you verify that these gifts will impress.  

        If you’re shopping last minute for that gardener in your life, remember that it doesn’t have to be stressful! Keep comfort, adaptability, and their unique interests in mind for a gift that’s sure to please!  

         The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant December 20, 2025

        Seasons Greetings

        By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty 

        It is hard to believe it is that magical time of year again.  Thoughts turn to how we are going to celebrate the holidays.  This would, of course, include decorating our living spaces.  Fortunately for plant people, there are no shortage of choices for the season.  Plants also make wonderful gifts to take to a holiday gathering.  After all, they bring nothing but joy and cheer.   

        Red, pink, and cream poinsettias with solid and variegated leaves arranged together.
        Poinsettias come in some amazing colors. Shown here are solid red and pink as well as two-toned combinations of colors (photo by M. Lisy).

        The first holiday plant that comes to mind is the poinsettia.  Although native to Mexico, they seem to have found their way into every corner of the country.  It is not actually flowers that are the stars of the show, but the colored leaves.  What was once a beautiful red has been selectively bred for some absolutely amazing colors.  My all-time favorites include a newer snow-white colored one, yellow, and the orange varieties.  If two-tone leaves are preferred, there are neat red with pink centers and white with pink centers – both of which look absolutely stunning.  A new one for this year has snow white leaves with a slight pink blush at the center.  Of course it does not end there!  There are varieties like “Jingle Bells” which looks like the red has white paint splattered all over it, which makes it a real conversation piece.  The “Christmas rose” comes in many colors now and has the leaves swirled into a rose shape.    

        The poinsettias are beautiful, but they take a little bit of TLC to get them to stay that way.  They should only be watered when they are dry to the touch on the surface.  Let them dry too long, and they drop leaves.  Cold drafts will produce the same result.  If water is splashed on the leaves, the spots will discolor and dry, ruining the look.  These plants are best watered from the bottom by filling the tray they are sitting in with water and letting the soil and roots wick it up.  Poinsettias tend to fall from grace after the holiday season, and therefore are treated as a temporary decoration. 

         There are a number of other plants that will make just as nice of a display.  The first is the Christmas cactus.  They bloom profusely this time of year.  They also make a great houseplant if they are allowed to dry out between waterings.  To get them to rebloom the following year, put them in a room that is only illuminated by natural light – mother nature will take care of the rest (they need a critical period of darkness to flower).  These plants can be so long lived that they can become family heirlooms.  

        Pink and white cyclamen flowers with green variegated leaves, featuring a “Merry Christmas” gift tag.
        Cyclamen plants come in many different colors, styles, and combinations. A deep pink ended in light pink is pictured here (photo by M. Lisy).

        Some lesser-known plants include the frosty fern, which is not a fern at all, but a Selaginella (Spikemoss).  Although some species can tolerate extreme desiccation, the species sold during the December holiday season cannot.  These are great for people who love to over water because if they dry out at all, they will wither and die.  They actually prefer to be in moist, soggy soil but not submerged.  Cyclamen are nice looking plants with the flowers held above the leaves.  These are somewhat long lasting, but tend to go dormant.  They seem to be hard for most people to keep long term.  Kalanchoe plants have beautiful flowers of all different colors, but these are also a challenge to keep as a long-term houseplant.  Amaryllis bulbs can be beautiful when blooming, and after a dormant season may rebloom the following year.  These are easy to keep provided the watering is done only while growing and not while dormant or dying back.   

        I do not know if it is the marketing or the colors of holiday plants that make them so popular, but do not forget about traditional houseplants for gifts.  Some nice philodendrons, spider plants, pothos, or snake plants certainly make wonderful additions to any home.  There are so many beautiful new varieties coming to the market all the time.  No matter what plant species is chosen, plants tend to put a smile on the face of the receiver.  In my opinion, there is no greater gift.  If the choices are too many, then why not get a gift certificate for a local independently owned nursery or greenhouse?  Happy holidays!!!    

        The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant December 13, 2025

        Barn Cupolas And What They Do

        By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

         Two large cupolas with louvered vents on a weathered barn roof, partially obscured by green trees.
        Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Cupolas are small structures built over a hole in the roof centerline to provide light, ventilation, a nice view or perhaps some decoration to the overall structure. While found on many kinds of buildings including the International Space Station, the main purpose of barn cupolas is functional over form. With the advent of tighter barn construction to keep livestock warm during the winter, moisture buildup became a problem. The cupola became a necessary addition to barns to help reduce this moisture buildup and to allow fresh air to enter the barn.

        While used in the Middle East and eventually in Europe, these structures were more decorative than functional. They were eventually used less as domes became more popular. In the United States, cupolas were introduced in the late 1700s by settlers from Europe and used as barns increased in size and allowed for more hay storage and livestock housing.  Tighter construction by means of siding and better roofing became the norm in the mid 1860s, and this resulted in ventilation issues as moisture levels increased.

        The larger amounts of hay could build up heat and occasionally spontaneous combustion occurs if fresh air is not provided. Both the hay and the barn could be destroyed. Tighter barns also meant more moisture from both the breathing of the cows and from a constant deposit of urine and manure. Fresh air and the removal of moisture was needed for the health of livestock and to prevent mold developing on and ruining stored hay.

        The solution was a nifty piece of architecture called a cupola. Farmers started installing cupolas as a means to draw out  hot, moist air and stale gases from manure via louvered slats on all four sides. Fresh air could also enter while rain and snow were mostly kept from entering the roof as these louvers were downward facing. The health of livestock kept in close quarters in cold weather improved, and mold development on stored hay was reduced through this ventilation. Additionally, livestock kept warmer in the cold months required less food, so hay lasted longer and in good condition.

        The spacing, size, and number of cupolas needed depended upon the linear footage of roof centerlines. The number of livestock and amount of hay storage were also considered. This is why some barns have many of these structures, while other barns may only have one or two. Barns with open sides have no need for cupolas.

         Yellow wooden cupola with louvered vents and decorative trim against a clear blue sky
        Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        While the primary function of cupolas has been to provide ventilation for haylofts and livestock areas, there are many styles of cupolas that also incorporate various decorative designs. On Hanks Hill Road in Mansfield, there are two barns on two different properties near each other that have the exact same unique design, which is rather fancy while still being functional. I suspect the same person designed and built both as they are almost identical in decorative woodwork and unusual peaked roof lines. I have not found other cupolas with such intricate woodwork and wonderful design features.

        Historic barns often have fixed or awning windows that either don’t open or that are hinged on the top or bottom and open only slightly.  Some cupolas are topped with a weathervane or a finial. Farmers took great pride in their barns. They could be a large investment, so it’s understandable that many put elaborate cupolas on their barns to make a statement about their pride and prosperity. As you drive around farm country, perhaps now you will notice some interesting cupolas that have been there all along.

        The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant December 6, 2025

        Holiday Plants, Forcing Bulbs, Hawks & Other December News

        December 2025

        “You can tell a lot about a person by the way they handle three things: a rainy day, lost luggage and tangled Christmas tree lights.” 

        — Maya Angelou

        Gifted a Plant? Here's What You Should Know

        Poinsettias

        • 65°F to 70°F is ideal for them! Temperatures below 50°F can cause damage. 
        • Water when the first inch feels dry to the touch. Never let your poinsettia sit in water or dry out to the point of wilting 
        • They like bright, indirect, natural light.

        Poinsettia Care

         

        Christmas Cactus

        • Ideal temperature is 75°F - 80°F during the day
        • Water when the potting mix dries out
        • The prefer filtered light
        • These plants like to be pot-bound! 

        Christmas Cactus Care

         

        Amaryllis

        • Keep them at 70°F to 75°F during flowering period, cool them to 65°F after flowering to prolong their lifespan.
        • Do not let sit in water. Keep the soil slightly moist and increase watering when plant is flowering
        • They need at least 4 hours of direct sun per day
        • Remove the blossoms after flowering and continue care to keep them growing!

        Amaryllis Care

         

        A vibrant display of poinsettias in various colors, including red with white speckles, solid red, pink, and yellow-green, arranged among lush green foliage in a greenhouse setting.

        Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Cyclamen

        • These plants prefer temperatures between 50° and 60°F 
        • Keep the soil moist, but do not let it sit in water. These plants are sensitive to overwatering and highly susceptible to to rot
        • Provide bright, indirect light - though they are tolerant of shady conditions when maintained

        Cyclamen Care

         

        Other Houseplants

        • Always check the soil before watering
        • When transporting plants, keep them in paper bags to prevent cold damage
        • Avoid positioning them in drafty windows or doorway areas

        Houseplant Care

         


         Force Bulbs Now for Late-Winter Cheer

        Pink tulips in full bloom arranged in a red glass vase, placed on a wooden floor in sunlight near a wall and door.
        Photo by Holly McNamara, Uconn Plant Diagnostic Lab

        December is your last chance to encourage spring bulbs to bloom during the late winter gloom of February and March. Paper Whites, Daffodils, Amaryllis, Iris, Tulips, Hyacinth, and Crocus can produce enticing fragrances and colors during these otherwise bleak winter conditions.

        Forcing is the process of “tricking” bulbs into sprouting and blooming under artificially imposed conditions. There are often cultivars available for purchase that are specifically bred for forcing. Bulbs can be planted in commercial potting soil. Make sure there are at least 2” of soil beneath the bulbs to allow for root growth, in a pot with adequate drainage holes. With this technique, bulbs may be planted very close together for an aesthetically pleasing product. A 6” diameter pot can hold 3 large bulbs (hyacinth), 5-6 medium bulbs (tulips or daffodils), or up to 15 small bulbs (crocus).

        With the exception of paperwhites, most spring blooming bulbs must be subjected to a minimum of twelve weeks of cold temperatures, anywhere from 35-50°F, to prepare them for growth. This can be achieved by placing the pot in an unheated garage, crawl space, or refrigerator. After this cold period, the pot can be moved to a cool, sunny location, preferably between 50-60°F as the shoots and leaves begin to emerge. After one week, it can be moved to a warmer location out of direct sunlight. At this point in the process, the bulbs should bloom in three to four weeks.


        Keep an Eye out for Hawks

        Native Cooper's hawks, red-tailed hawks, and red-shouldered hawks are more frequently seen in the winter months when foliage is absent, and prey is easier for them to find.

        Cooper's hawks especially linger near bird feeders to get an easier shot at prey, but the larger hawks will often be nearby as well. 

        Red-shouldered hawk perched on bare tree branches with evergreen trees and blue sky in the background.

        A Red-Shouldered Hawk. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office


        Native Plant: Witch Hazel

        Branches of witch hazel with clusters of yellow, ribbon-like flowers against a clear blue sky and autumn foliage.
        Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

         

        Native witch hazel is a good choice for a Connecticut landscape plant. A small tree or multi- trunked shrub, its spiky, yellow flowers are the last native blooms to appear in New England. Often, late active insects like flies, honeybees and bumblebees are found visiting its flowers as other pollen and nectar sources are no longer available.


        Word from the WiSE

        Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

        Happy World Soil Day!

        This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on celebrating World Soil Day.
        World Soil Day is December 5th, 2025 and the theme of this year’s celebration is Healthy Soils for Healthy Cities, emphasizing the need to consider the state of soil health in urban landscapes.

        When we think of soil health, we often think about the soil in our home gardens or large-scale agricultural fields. Soil health practices are just as important in urban environments, but much of the soil is sealed away with cement and other impermeable surfaces. Healthy urban soil absorbs rainfall, reduces flooding, and supports effective stormwater management. It helps regulate temperature and can lessen the urban heat island effect. It also stores carbon, can help to improve air quality, and supports biodiversity by providing a habitat for urban wildlife.

        Beyond the environmental benefits, it also can enhance human well-being. It can improve mental and physical health by generating more opportunities for outdoor recreation and strengthening connection with nature. By recognizing and sharing the value of healthy urban soils with others, we can help to rethink urban spaces and promote more resilient and healthier cities. 

        By Nora Doonan – Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA


        Weather Outlook

        A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

            Temperature map

        Precipitation Outlook

         


        Upcoming Events and Things to Do


        Educational Opportunities & Workshops

        Join Us at Upcoming Talks

        Good Bug/Bad Bug with Pamm Cooper
        December 13, 2025 - 2:00 PM
        Hosted by the Mary Cheney Public Library
        586 Main Street
        Manchester, CT 06040

          Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products! 

          Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets! As you plan your holiday feasts this season, consider buying local, CT grown products.

          Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.

           


          December Gardening Tips

          • Holiday plants, including amaryllis, mistletoe, and yew are toxic and should be kept away from children and pets. Contact Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222 immediately if you suspect a problem.
          • Be sure to keep poinsettia away from heat sources, drafts, and cold air. Keep soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Poinsettia that dry out droop dramatically and drop their flowers. Try something a bit more unusual like a cyclamen or kalanchoe for holiday plants.
          • Decorative foil around the roots of holiday plants can hold water and drown them. Either remove it when you water, or poke drainage holes in the foil and use a saucer
          • Wooden A-frame structure protecting a green shrub in front of a house with white siding and blue shutters.”Consider protecting vulnerable plants from heavy snow sliding from the roof (see image)
          • Build a physical barrier of mesh galvanized steel hardware cloth (1/4 to 1/2 inch) around the base of vulnerable trees to prevent voles from feeding
          • Harvest any leeks and root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips that are still in the garden
          • Check produce that you have in storage. Sort out any that show signs of disease and dispose of them
          • Do not use fertilizer to melt ice. This creates nitrogen runoff issues that could damage local bodies of water
          • Tap the evergreen branches gently to remove snow and ice to prevent the branches from breaking
          • Store your opened bags of fertilizer in a sealed plastic bag or plastic waterproof container with a snugly fitting lid in a dry location to avoid caking
          • If you have a real Christmas tree, recycle it after the holidays are through. Cut off branches and use as insulation over perennials. In spring, chip or shred branches to create mulch or add to the compost pile

           

          Wishing you joy, peace and happiness this holiday season!


          - The UConn Plant and Soil Health Team

          Bronze husky statue adorned with a festive wreath, surrounded by illuminated evergreen trees at night.

          We're Moving in April 2026

          New Location: 
          George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center
          University of Connecticut
          Roy E. Jones Building Annex
          27 Manter Road, Storrs, CT, 06269
          (In front of UConn Dairy Bar)
          Map of the Jones Annex across from the dairy bar

          UConn Home Garden Education Office

          Horticultural support and education for home garden issues related to plant health, garden pests, general plant care, and more.

          UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

          Diagnosis of plant health and pest issues for commercial growers and the public.

          UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

          Soil chemistry testing including pH, nutrients, salinity, lime and fertilizer recommendations, and many others.

          UConn Turf Diagnostic Lab

          Turf diagnostics for golf courses, athletic fields, or other commercial turfgrass sites

          What Stays the Same

          We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

          What Gets Better

          Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

          • One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
          • Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
          • Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events
          Watch for More Information Soon
          s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

          This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
          Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Holly McNamara, Nora Doonan

          Highlighting Connecticut’s Winter Cheer: Common Witch Hazel

          By Holly McNamara, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

          Branches of witch hazel with clusters of yellow, ribbon-like flowers against a clear blue sky and autumn foliage.
          Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

          Connecticut’s native species of Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, is a remarkably unique woody ornamental that can be found as a large shrub or small tree. It comes to the rescue this time of year as the leaves continue to drop and our surroundings become starved of color. Its foliage in autumn is a showstopping yellow.  

          Hamamelis virginiana can grow between 10 and 20 feet tall and is often nearly just as wide as it is tall. In ideal conditions, some can even grow as large as 30 feet tall. It has a loose and somewhat open, irregular rounded shape and is very attractive in landscaping when used as hedge rows, woodland edge planting, or along a pond or river. It’s the last plant to come into bloom each year in the Northeast, blooming from October to December. The bloom coincides with its flashy fall foliage, making it one of the most eye-catching specimens of the winter landscape.  

          The blooms are bright yellow with spidery, ribbon-like petals and have a pleasant citrusy fragrance. They are clustered tightly around the branches, and the petals curl up protectively during cold spells. A few cut branches in a vase will be sure to perfume and brighten up your home during the dreary winter months. Its late flowers attract certain species of flies, bees, gnats, and cold-tolerant moths. These insects are a food source for native songbirds such as kinglets, chickadees, and titmice.  

          The medicinal qualities of the Common Witch Hazel are world renowned and have been utilized for centuries. Its anti-inflammatory properties serve as a soothing remedy for bruises, itches, sunburns, acne, and small wounds. In fact, Common Witch Hazel extract is one of the only medicinal plants approved by the FDA as a nonprescription drug. Always consult with a medical professional before incorporating the use of medicinal plants. It's worth noting that there have been several Witch Hazel processing plants in Connecticut, starting in the 19th Century. To this day, most of the world’s Witch Hazel extracts are still produced in East Hampton, Connecticut. 

          Consider planting a Common Witch Hazel or two in your yard, mixed with hollies, viburnums, and dogwoods for some late-season cheer. Common Witch Hazel will grow in a variety of conditions, from moist to dry, and shaded to sunny. Flowers are most abundant when planted in full sun. It prefers acidic, nutrient-rich, well-draining soil. It’s quite hardy, growing in zones 4 through 8, and has very little trouble with pests or diseases. After establishment, they are virtually care-free. The only maintenance of note is periodic pruning to remove suckers if a controlled shape is desired. 

          Although it is a slow growing plant, it is worth the wait when it bursts into bloom. With so much going for it, this is a plant that deserves greater consideration for use in ornamental landscapes and yards. 

          The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

          This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 29, 2025

          Road Salt and Your Soil

          By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

          When I was a graduate student from Nepal living in New Haven from 2012 to 2014, I kept noticing the same winter aftereffect across town. Along busy streets, the first foot of lawn by the pavement turned yellow and matted, and the road-facing sides of yews and hollies burned while the yard sides looked fine. Coming from a place that does not spread salt each winter, it felt backward. We made the road safer, but the plants and soil paid the price. At UConn’s Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab, we hear versions of this every spring. People send soil from a strip along the road or from a bed near the driveway and say that spot never greens up like the rest.  

          You have also likely noticed the symptoms. Fine particles form a crust on the soil surface where water evaporates. Turf browns right at the pavement edge. Buds on the roadside of a shrub fail to break. Evergreens brown on the street side when traffic spray carries salty water, while the interior needles stay green. Vegetable beds that sit too close to plow piles can exhibit poor emergence, tip burn, or slow growth, even when the rest of the garden appears fine.  

          What road salt does to soil 

          Sodium chloride (rock salt) is the most widely used deicer. Once it dissolves, it separates into sodium (Na) and chloride (Cl). Chloride is highly mobile. It moves with meltwater, so in a wet spring, it can leach through the soil and, where conditions allow, reach groundwater, affecting well water quality. 

          Sodium changes how soil behaves. In healthy soil, calcium and magnesium sit on exchange sites; repeated sodium inputs displace them, sealing the surface, reducing infiltration, and making the soil feel tighter right where plants already struggle. Sodium also competes with potassium uptake, so salt-burned spots can look nutrient-deficient even when tests show adequate levels. 

          Alternatives to sodium chloride are often less harsh but cost more. Magnesium chloride and calcium chloride melt at lower temperatures but still add chloride and can injure plants and corrode concrete and metal. Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) is chloride-free and generally gentler, yet it’s pricier and harder to find. 

          Lab testing and management options 

          If you inform the lab that the sample is from a salt-affected area (such as a roadside, plow pile, or splash zone), they will interpret the numbers with that history in mind and, if necessary, use the appropriate salinity method for your sample. 

          1. Soil pH and texture (and organic matter). Sandy roadside fill flushes salts quickly but is more susceptible to damage due to its low buffering capacity. Heavier soils with more organic matter hold up better but can crust at the surface after repeated salting. For optimal plant health and reduced salt uptake, aim for a pH of approximately 6.5–7.0; your report will include a lime rate if your pH is below this range.
          2. Soluble salts / electrical conductivity (EC). EC shows how salty the root zone was when you sampled. It is most informative right after winter or snowmelt, when salts are near the surface. For mineral soils, labs typically measure EC from a simple soil–water extract. 

            Dense green shrub with numerous small, bright red berries growing along its branches, situated against a brick and white wall in a landscaped area.
            Plants like the Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) may be able to stand up to some salt exposure in the landscape. Some varieties may be more resistant than others. (Photo by H. Zidack)

            Start with prevention. Before winter, top-dress the first 1–2 feet along the road with a thin layer of compost to improve structure and exchange capacity. Keep that strip covered, overseed thin turf, or use a salt-tolerant edge, and ask the plow operator to place piles where meltwater drains to the street or to vegetation that isn’t over your well line. Where meltwater goes matters as much as how much salt you use. 

            After winter, fix what the season left behind. If the roadside sample shows elevated EC, lightly loosen any compacted or crusted soil so that water can infiltrate. Then, leach the area with two or three deep soakings a few days apart to push salts below the main root zone. If a hedge or shrub burns on the roadside year after year, consider moving it back or replacing the front row with more salt-tolerant plants. 

            For chronic hotspots, shift from one-time flushing to long-term protection: use less deicer, keep piles away from beds and wells, maintain dense groundcover in the first foot along pavement, and in harsh exposures, consider stone mulch plus seasonal compost topdressing to help the soil rebound. 

            If your well water tastes salty, check the state’s road-salt guidance and contact your town. When the damage is limited to curb strips or driveway beds, soil testing and better winter practices usually solve it.  

            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations. 

            This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 23, 2025

            Chestnuts: A Tasty Thanksgiving Treat

            By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center 

            Seven brown chestnuts resting on two yellow autumn leaves on a wooden surface
            Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

            With Thanksgiving approaching, many of us will be sitting down to hearty feasts with family and friends. Time-tested recipes on worn index cards or heavily thumbed cookbooks are combed through/uncovered. Many of us gardeners pick a few new plants for our gardens each year, so why not try a new plant on the dinner table? Chestnuts were reputedly served at the first Thanksgiving and thanks to dedicated breeding programs may be available locally today.  

            It’s hard to imagine that a little over 125 years ago there were probably 4 billion American chestnuts (Castanea dentata) spread out from southern Maine to northern Georgia. They were an important food source for both indigenous people as well as wildlife. Early European settlers found their rot resistant wood useful for many building purposes.  

            Unfortunately, a disease (Cryphonectria parasitica), known as chestnut blight, was unintentionally introduced in 1876 on imported Japanese chestnuts (C. crenata). These were sold via mail order throughout the eastern U.S., and our native American chestnuts soon became infected. This fungus spreads by windblown spores. Signs of infection include a reddish-orange ‘rash’ on the affected bark and as it reproduces, an orangey substance oozes from pores in the bark. Cankers form and eventually the plant can no longer internally transport water and nutrients. Chestnut blight kills the parent tree but not the roots so even to this day, you are able to find sprouts growing from chestnut roots. As the sprouts develop, they too will be killed back by the blight so while the tree is kept alive, American chestnuts are considered functionally extinct, but all is not lost.  

            Fortunately, both researchers and chestnut lovers have been working pretty much for the past 100 years on developing varieties resistant to chestnut blight. Breeding work has been done in many locations but the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station began their program in the early 1900s and it is the only program that has continued uninterrupted to this day. Presently this CAES program is led by Forest Pathologist and Ecologist, Dr. Susanna Kerio.   

            Various chestnut species including American, Chinese Japanese and European have been crossed, backcrossed, planted, evaluated, culled and selected by researchers and enthusiasts all over the eastern U.S. As one can imagine, it takes more time to evaluate a tree’s characteristics than say, an annual plant like a tomato.    

            Organizations like The American Chestnut Foundation started in 1982 have been championing the search. According to Deni Ranguelova, the New England Regional Science Coordinator, the goal is to develop blight resistant chestnuts and restore this magnificent tree to its native range. Members of this organization have the opportunity to obtain straight species or hybrid seed to try their hand at growing chestnuts and add observations to the chestnut knowledge base.   

            Why all this work on chestnuts? Well for one, they are deliciously mild and sweet. They are low in calories and high in fiber. Chestnuts are a good source of potassium and other nutrients. Eat them freshly roasted (just like in the song!), in holiday stuffings, soups, in main dishes and glazed. To cook them, they do need to be scored whether oven roasted, boiled, steamed or microwaved to keep them from bursting. Lots of instructions, recipes and videos can be found online.   

            Second, plants are productive. In fact, it was estimated that before their demise that a mature American chestnut may be able to produce 6000 nuts! They can serve as a food source to both people and wildlife as researchers and enthusiasts create blight resistant strains to plant in our natural areas or in commercial orchards.  

            Aside from being a member of The American Chestnut Foundation and obtaining seed, one can order chestnut seedlings from several online nurseries. Keep in mind that chestnuts do best in a sunny area with well-drained soil. Root rots can occur in poorly drained areas. Plants are being bred to be straight and tall for timber, or shorter and wider for nut production. Make sure you have enough space for a mature chestnut tree, or most likely 2 trees as chestnuts need another plant for cross pollination.  

            Even if a chestnut tree is not in your future, do try some chestnut dishes at your Thanksgiving table. They may start a new tradition.  

            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

            This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 15, 2025