Newspaper Articles

Don’t Let Dry Soil Follow Your Plants Into Winter!

By Holly McNamara, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

This year, Connecticut’s notably dry summer conditions have continued into fall. According to the U.S. Drought Monitor, all counties are abnormally dry for this time of year, and some are even considered to be in a moderate drought. Thus, many trees, shrubs, and perennials are heading into winter low on moisture. These conditions combined with the dry air, low precipitation, and fluctuating temperatures characteristic of Connecticut winters can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided. Many of your plants will benefit from a deep final soak before the ground freezes.

Fall drought stress often doesn’t show up until spring, or even the following summer.Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring, using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened or die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Browning evergreens, delayed leaf-out, and sudden dieback are common signs of plants that went into winter too dry.

Moist soil is so important in the fall and winter months because it provides insulation to the roots. It may seem counter-intuitive, but properly hydrated soil does a much better job at protecting roots from freezing temperatures than dry soil. Root damage occurs for this reason when plants do not receive enough late-season moisture.

Woody plants with shallow root systems require the most supplemental water during extended dry periods in the fall and winter. Trees in this category include maples, birches, willows, and dogwoods. This category also includes perennials, and shrubs like hydrangeas, boxwoods, and azaleas. These plants benefit from mulch to further conserve soil moisture and buffer the roots from temperature swings. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the trunk all the way to the outermost reach of its branches in a doughnut shape.

Evergreen needles up close
Evergreens need sufficient water in dry falls to help prevent winter injury. Photo by Heather Zidack

Evergreens also benefit from fall and winter watering because they do not go dormant in the winter. Evergreens of any age are still actively respiring during the coldest months of the year and will continuously lose water through their needles. If they go into the winter with dry soil, they are more likely to have a difficult spring recovery. This is especially true for those in open or windy areas.

Only water when daytime temperatures are above 40°F, ideally in the late morning or early afternoon so the water can soak in before possible freezing at night. Feel the soil at a depth of 4 to 6 inches to ensure that supplemental water is necessary. Soil should be consistently moist, but not oversaturated or muddy. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because plants cannot absorb water through frozen soil. To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water that can penetrate deeper into the soil with limited runoff. If your hose is already stored away for the winter, and your tree or shrub is small, consider drilling a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and filling that with water for a slow, steady stream. If dry weather continues into the winter and there’s little snow cover, additional watering once or twice a month may be needed until the soil hardens.

A final round of watering now can prevent root injury that won’t be visible until much later. Evergreens, deciduous trees, and other landscape plantings will head into winter stronger with a little extra attention this month. Giving the soil one last watering before it freezes is one of the simplest ways to protect your landscape from winter stress.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 25, 2025

Why is My Lilac Blooming in the Fall?

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Bumblebees on fall blooming lilacs
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Spring-blooming woody plants like lilacs (especially the old, grafted varieties), ornamental cherries, forsythia, crabapples, azaleas and some magnolias set their flower buds for the following year in early summer shortly after flowering.  Usually, flower buds are triggered to bloom by environmental conditions which normally occur after an extended fall and winter cold period, followed by longer days and warming temperatures in spring. It is not typical for these plants to have a second bloom in the fall, but environmental conditions sometimes trigger premature flowering in the fall. Some plants may have only a few flowers rebloom, while other plants may have more flowers open in the fall.  

Some of the reasons for this out of season bloom are extended summer heat and drought conditions where supplemental water is lacking.  Severe early defoliation, especially from certain fungal pathogens, can also contribute to reblooming. The past two springs have been very wet and diseases such as anthracnose and Pseudocercospora spp. leaf spot may have caused leaves to brown, shrivel and drop early. This stresses the shrub and contributes to out of sync rebloom if other conditions are right. Good sanitation practices such as cleaning up infected leaves will be helpful in reducing fungal infections the following year. 

If a plant is healthy and relatively unstressed, the normal seasonal move to cooler weather triggers dormancy. Plants that are deciduous will drop leaves as daylight length and temperature both decrease. Next year’s leaf and flower buds will also remain in a dormant state. Flowering and leafing out will be triggered by increasing daylight and air temperatures the next spring. 

Lilac flowers opening in October
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

If certain woody plants have been stressed during the growing season, however, the change to cooler weather followed by some warmer weather can trigger some of the flower buds to open prematurely. This false dormancy especially affects flower buds near the tops of old-style lilacs where it is sunnier and warmer. Ornamental cherries may show sporadic flowering all over the tree where there is a southern exposure.  

While fall reblooming of ornamental trees and shrubs can lead to a disappointing floral display the following spring, it is not harmful to the plant. After a less showy spring bloom period, flower buds will be produced normally. If stressful conditions caused by environmental conditions, insect pests or fungal pathogens are minimal, then a second bloom in autumn is unlikely to occur. Gardeners and landscapers can only do so much, and while the weather is out of our control, making sure plants are maintained properly to avoid stress during the summer will go a long way in helping them remain as healthy as possible.  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 18, 2025

What’s changing with fertilizers in Connecticut, and how to shop smarter this fall?

By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

If you shop for fertilizer in Connecticut this fall, you will see some labels missing from the shelves and more paperwork behind the ones that remain. The reason is new state rules targeting certain ingredients and how they are documented. 

A compost pile on the edge of a woodlineOn October 1, 2024, Connecticut banned products made from biosolids or wastewater sludge that contain PFAS from being used or sold in the state as soil amendments. Biosolids are the treated solids left from wastewater treatment. Some products made from them were marketed for lawns and gardens in the past years. Connecticut’s new law closed that door to reduce PFAS in soils and runoff. 

So what are PFAS and why the crackdown? Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS, are a large class of “forever chemicals” added to products to resist water, grease, and stains. They do not break down easily and can build up in people, soil, and water. Health agencies have linked PFAS exposure to certain cancers, immune system effects, and developmental concerns, which is why Connecticut has been tightening rules to limit the entry of these chemicals into our environment. 

Effective July 1, 2025, the legislature extended the PFAS biosolids restriction from soil amendments to fertilizers as well. The law also requires manufacturers and registrants to provide a certificate of compliance showing that any fertilizer or soil amendment that contains biosolids is free of PFAS. Products that do not meet the standard must be removed from Connecticut shelves.  

What this means for your yard and vegetable beds is simple: expect fewer “biosolids-based” fertilizers on the market and expect clearer paperwork behind any products that remain. If you relied on those products for lawns or gardens, it is time to switch to other nutrient sources. 

How can you read labels to avoid fertilizers and Soil amendments with PFAS? 

  • Check the ingredients panel. Look for words like “biosolids,” “sewage sludge,” “municipal waste,” or “residuals.” If you see those, consider a different product.  
  • Look for an analysis or ingredient list that spells out plant, animal, or mineral sources, such as feather meal, alfalfa meal, composted poultry manure, sulfate of potash, or rock-derived nutrients. These indicate non-biosolid ingredients. 
  • Ask your retailer. If a product contains biosolids, the maker must keep a certificate on file stating the product is compliant. Retailers should know whether a certificate exists for what they sell. If they cannot confirm, do not buy.  

Safer sourcing ideas that are easy to find 

  • Start with a soil test. Match products and rates to what your soil actually needs. The UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory provides routine tests with fertilizer and lime recommendations for home lawns and gardens. 
  • Yard-waste compost and leaf mulch made from leaves, grass clippings, and wood chips are reliable ways to add organic matter to the soil. 
  • Use animal-based fertilizers like composted poultry manure or feather meal, plant-based products like alfalfa meal, and mineral fertilizers like sulfate of potash and limestone.  
  • Biosolids are not allowed in certified organic production. “OMRI Listed” inputs follow the USDA National Organic Program, which prohibits sewage sludge. Choosing “OMRI Listed” products can be a practical way to avoid biosolids entirely.  

A few quick FAQs 

  • Do I need to throw away the fertilizer I already own? Yes, but only if it contains PFAS or biosolids with PFAS. The new rules apply to the sale and use in the state. Contact your town’s household hazardous waste program for proper disposal guidance.  
  • Will PFAS show up on a routine soil nutrient test? Standard nutrient tests do not include PFAS. If you are concerned about legacy PFAS on a property that received biosolids, specialized testing is required. Your local Extension office can help you locate appropriate resources. 
  • What about compost from my town? Ask what goes into it. Compost made only from leaves, grass, wood, and animal waste is a safer choice for home gardens under the new rules. 

Connecticut has removed PFAS-containing biosolids and fertilizer products from the garden marketplace. Expect clearer documentation from manufacturers and fewer sludge-based products on shelves. With a little label reading and a few ingredient swaps, you can keep building healthy soil while staying on the right side of the regulations.  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at  extension.uconn.edu/locations 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 11, 2025

Got Garlic?

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Garlic belongs to the allium family, which includes onions, shallots, chives, and even some ornamental plants. People have strong feelings about garlic; they either love it or hate it. Whether you add it to your pantry of seasonings or not, there are tons of fantastic reasons to plant it in your garden.

Garlic cloves
Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Garlic is great for gardeners on the go. One of my favorite things about these plants is the window in which they grow. You plant cloves in October and harvest the bulbs in July. Planting garlic cloves is one of the last things I do in my garden before hanging up my gloves for the season. This means I have an entire bed already working for me when the spring starts. In early summer, you can harvest the young flower spikes, known as scapes, and use them in recipes for a mild garlic flavor. They blend beautifully with early season cole crops to make some fantastic spring dishes!

From a practical standpoint, the time saved in planting an entire bed before the season has even started is invaluable. Their presence helps to retain garden soil and prevent loss through erosion over the dormant season. Their care is minimal, only needing a side-dress of fertilizer in the spring and supplemental water when active growing starts. On top of all of that, they package themselves perfectly for storage, when cured and stored properly.

A garden bed of garlic with half of the plants removed
Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Another fantastic benefit to having garlic in your garden beds is that it is well equipped to fend off many vertebrate and invertebrate types of pests. From personal experience, my garlic beds have not needed a fenced in area like my other vegetables and have been relatively undisturbed by local wildlife.  While there are claims out there regarding companion planting, I only can confirm for certain that the properties of garlic keep animals away from garlic plants. Scientists are also studying the benefits of garlic for the microbial environment in the soil, to see what other impacts they may have.

As large bulbs develop, they help to break up the soil in the bed for whatever is next to come in the rotation. Once garlic bulbs are harvested, we usually have anywhere between 90 and 100 days left of the growing season. This is plenty of time to rotate in a fast-growing crop like leafy greens, summer squash, carrots, radish, or even some kinds of brassicas.

If you do decide to give garlic a try this year, make sure you pick up clean seed garlic from a trusted source. As with any other plant, healthy starting material will help in yielding healthy plants. Hardneck varieties tend to grow best in our climate. They have a firm stem that starts at the base of the bulb and grows through the plant, giving it a strong single stalk during the growing season (this is where the scapes come from). They need a vernalization (cold) period, which is why it is best to plant them before the ground freezes. There are many varieties of hardneck garlic with a wide range of flavors.

Do not use garlic cloves from the grocery store. Grocery stores typically carry softneck garlic, which has no central stem and may have more cloves inside. A lot of our commercial garlic is grown in California.  Softneck garlic may not grow as well in our climate. In addition, commercial agricultural produce can sometimes be treated with growth inhibitors or inadvertently carry pests or pathogens that would not serve your garden well. Local farms, farmers markets, and harvest festivals are great resources to find quality planting garlic. There are also reputable catalog companies out there, but you better get to ordering as time is short!

Garlic leaves peeking through straw mulch
Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Before planting, break the garlic bulb into its numerous cloves. Don’t be too concerned if some skin flakes off of the outermost layer, but do not peel the garlic before planting it. The intact skin acts as a protective barrier to keep them from rotting in the soil. Place cloves pointy end up in the soil at a depth of 1-2 inches, depending on the size of the clove. Water in and cover with a straw or leaf mulch, and it’s done! Don’t be too shocked if you see them start to emerge from the soil before the snow. Leave them be and assess in the spring, sometimes you don’t even have to cut those leaves back!

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, garlic offers something for everyone. Its numerous benefits in the garden, plus its versatility in the kitchen provide a great starting point for those who want to have their own garden-to-table experience. You’ll be a pro in no time!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 4, 2025

Extend Your Fall Color with More than Mums!

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

A garden bed with mums cabbage and millet
Photo by H. Zidack

By September, many of our ornamental garden beds and containers are ready for a refresh. Fall annuals help us bring color and vibrancy back into the garden while we still can enjoy the outdoors. The classic go-to for many gardens is the traditional chrysanthemum. These rotund, uniform little plants come in many different colors, various flower shapes, and a wide range of blooming periods from the end of August until the end of October. For extended color, it is often recommended to plant a mix of early, mid, and late season mums to ensure that color will last throughout the autumn. Alternatively, gardeners can mix mums with other types of annuals and perennials to extend their season of color and build a textured, multi-dimensional garden display. 

A unique challenge with fall annuals is that they do not grow as vigorously as spring and summer annuals. In terms of size, oftentimes the plant you purchase is the plant you will see in your garden for the remainder of the season. It is important to purchase your plants with this in mind. Fill your space densely and don’t hold as much space for plants to “grow into.” 

Large, full ornamental grasses like Pennisetum ‘Rubrum,’ Pennisetum ‘First Knight,’ or varieties of Millet will take up a lot of space and add height and an airy texture to your annual display.   If working in a container, add these giants to the middle of your planters and work your way outwards with other annuals.  

Yellow flowers with brown centers surrounded by ornamental grasses in a display
Rudbeckia Hirta 'Denver Daisy' in an autumn display. Photo by H. Zidack

Varieties of Rudbeckia hirta, like the ‘Toto’ series can take up a large space and have an open habit and less uniformity when compared to the traditional mum. Echibeckia (Rudbeckia x Echinacea hybrids) also do a great job of filling the space. Autumn is their time to shine and shine they do! Some of them may be hardy to Zone 6 but always check the variety and plant label to know if they have a chance of survival.  

We’re always looking to get more for our money. Don’t let your fall garden spruce up be any different this season!  Garden perennials that are currently in bloom, like RudbeckiaSedum, or Asters can be purchased and planted in containers for fall display. When they start to wind down, re-plant them somewhere in the garden before the ground freezes for a chance of coming back next season. Who doesn’t love a multi-purpose purchase? 

Many of us think of pansies and violets as spring flowers. However, they are gaining more traction in the world of ornamental horticulture as an autumn accent plant. These tiny flowers are already adapted to warm days and cool nights, and come in a wide range of colors for every gardener to enjoy. If you’re lucky, they’ll drop seeds and pop back up again in the springtime!  

Annuals like Nemesia and Snapdragons are well adapted to our autumn temperatures and will produce flowers well into the autumn season, though may need frost protection to keep flowers beautiful.  

One of the risks we take with flowering annuals in the autumn is the risk of frost damaging flowers before their time. When frosts are expected, it is important to cover plants to preserve flowers. If you find this is a lot of work, let me introduce you to ornamental kale and cabbage. A symbol of a bountiful harvest, these plants naturally lend themselves to an autumn display and can last far beyond their flowering counterparts. In fact, the colder they get, the more vibrant their foliage becomes!  

A wheelbarrow full of flowers and pumpkins
Photo by H. Zidack

Again, using perennials in fall displays, lends itself to solving this problem. As hardy plants, they are able to adapt to cooler nights and light frosts. This works well with foliage plants like Heuchera, or hardy ferns, that do not need additional frost protection to survive.  

To add the finishing touches to your display, consider adding pumpkins, hay bales, or even a home-made scarecrow! Your fall garden will be the envy of the neighborhood! 

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 27, 2025

Fall is a Great Time to Lime and Fertilize Lawns

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

With the end of summer drawing near and hopefully bringing cooler temperatures and needed precipitation, now is a great time to attend to your lawn. While some of us are reducing the size of our lawns and adding native plants, in many cases lawns still serve a valuable purpose for practical uses, recreation and to set off plantings. Traditional cool season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, fescues and rye grasses require a higher pH and more fertility than our native soils provide. Right now is the perfect time to add limestone and fertilizer, if needed. Improved soil conditions will assist lawns recovering from the heat and drought stresses of summer. Also, the cooler fall temperatures allow turfgrasses to resume active growth.

Having your soil tested before purchasing limestone and fertilizer is always a wise move. Check out the UConn Soil Testing Lab’s website or give them a call at (860) 486-4274. Many of our soils tend to be acidic with a pH of 5 or so. You might remember that the pH scales ranges from 1 to 14 with 7 being neutral and values below that acidic and above that alkaline. Cool season turf grasses prefer a soil pH in the mid 6’s. When the soil pH is too low, it reduces the amounts of nutrients that are available to turf grasses even if fertilizer has been applied, increases the solubility of toxic elements like aluminum and can cause a decrease in good root formation, contribute to thatch accumulation and affect soil microbes.

Fortunately adjusting your soil’s pH is relatively easy and affordable. Limestone can be purchased either as a ground white powder or in earth tone pelletized forms. There are two main types. Calcitic limestone consists predominantly of calcium carbonates while dolomitic limestone contains both calcium and magnesium carbonates. Usually, dolomitic limestone is more commonly found as it is mined locally and it is fine to use as magnesium is an essential nutrient.

A person pushing a spreader
Photo by dmp2024

Typically, limestone is applied at rates of 50 pounds per 1000 square feet. If the soil pH needs to be raised significantly, additional limestone can be applied either spring/fall or at 30-day intervals. Once your soil pH reaches the mid 6’s, a maintenance application of 50 pounds/1000 square feet every other year should suffice. Do keep in mind that limestone does take anywhere from 6 to 18 months to change the pH depending on environmental conditions. While some more costly products are advertised as ‘Fast Acting Lime’, studies comparing them to traditional ground or pelletized limestone are inconsistent. If using these products, just follow the instructions on the package.

Choosing a fertilizer is often a confusing task considering the vast selection available. All plants need at least 18 different elements to grow. The 3 that are most often deficient in our soils and components of most fertilizers are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). So, the 3 numbers found on a bag or box of fertilizer, like 10-10-10 or 27-4-6 represent the percent of total nitrogen, available phosphate, and water-soluble potassium, respectively. For instance, a ten-pound box of 10-10-10 contains 10 percent or 1 pound of total nitrogen, and another 10 percent or 1 pound each of available phosphate and water-soluble potassium.

A law passed in 2013, limits the amount of phosphorus that can be applied to established lawns because it is the number one inland freshwater pollutant. Lawn maintenance fertilizers sold in Connecticut will typically have analyses like 30-0-4, 29-0-5 or 10-0-6. While phosphorus applications are prohibited on established lawns, fertilizers with phosphorus can be used when seeding, sodding or overseeding.

Fertilizers are also grouped as either those containing water-soluble nitrogen (WS) of water insoluble nitrogen (WIN). Look for a fertilizer that contains both. That way some nitrogen will be immediately available to your lawn and some will be released slowly over time. Fertilizers containing solely soluble N will produce rapid results but can easily burn if over applied and since some forms of nitrogen are readily leached from the surface soil, more frequent fertilizer applications may be necessary. No more than 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet should be applied at one time. If grass clippings are left in place then only 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of turf area will be needed each year. The best times to fertilize lawns are in September and in late April through the end of May. Avoid using too much nitrogen as it can lead to increased susceptibility to diseases and lower resistance to stress. If in doubt as to how much lime and fertilizer to apply, consider having your soil tested.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website or reach out to your local UConn Extension center.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 20, 2025

Plectosporium – Not as Spooky As it Sounds!

By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

White blister like spots on an orange pumpkin
Raised white lesions, indicative of Plectosporium blight, on a pumpkin. William Nesmith, University of Kentucky.

A chill in the air, football playing on the TV, and a certain kind of latte in your hand – there is only one season which encapsulates all three. Autumn is at our doorstep, bringing with it vibrant colors to paint the trees and an abundant harvest to use in all the season’s culinary endeavors. Many of the crops most representative of fall are cucurbits – the most relevant of which being various varieties of squash and pumpkins. Although the season is associated with comfort, danger lurks for these plants in the form of a fungal disease – Plectosporium blight.  

As the disease name suggests, the fungal pathogen Plectosporium tabacinum is responsible for its occurrence. Following a typical cycle of disease in infected hosts, fungal reproductive structures overwinter on crop residue. The pathogen even has the ability to dwell in soil for up to three years, much overstaying its welcome. As the growing season progresses, fungal spores will enter hosts through natural openings like cuticles and stomata. Plectosporium tabacinum prefers a cool and rainy environment, as windy and wet weather can assist in the spread of fungal spores and therefore the disease itself.  

White lesions on a pumpkin stem
Squash host exhibiting tissue desiccation in late stages of infection. Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org

Plectosporium blight has a few key symptoms which are easy to spot. White or cream-colored patches of various sizes will be present on stem tissue and can also spread to leaf petioles – the stalk which connects the leaf to its stem or branch. In severe cases of infection with Plectosporium tabacinum, hosts can become entirely defoliated as these lesions deplete petioles of their strength. Raised circular lesions in colors including white, tan, and gray, will appear on the body of the fruit and possibly leaves. As the disease progresses, infected tissue will become increasingly brittle and dry, forming tan abrasions that detract from the plant’s vigor.  

Up close image of white spots
Symptom of Plectosporium tabacinum – white pathces on a squash stem. Virginia Tech Learning Resources Center , Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Bugwood.org

Fear not – all hope is not lost for the unofficial mascots of autumn. There are management strategies readily available to deter Plectosporium tabacinum. Due to the pathogen’s ability to dwell in plant residue and soil for long periods of time, crop rotations are beneficial to position potential hosts away from areas where the disease was observed in the past. In addition, assuring that plants have ample space between each other and therefore promoting air circulation. This leaves fungal pathogens without a suitable place to dwell, reducing infection of plants in the area. Control can also be achieved by fungicides, including Chlorothalonil and strobilurin based compounds. Always read the label in full before using any chemical product on your plants. 

The number of management strategies available for Plectosporium blight is a comforting indicator that this disease is easily controlled. As you are outside admiring the fall foliage and enjoying a reprieve from the harsh heat of summer, peruse your fall cucurbit harvest for the aforementioned symptoms. Stay curious and enjoy the dynamics of the season – it'll slip away in the blink of an eye!  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 13, 2025

Why Bees and Wasps Really Crash Your Late Summer Picnic!

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Did you notice a few unwelcome guests trying to steal a sip from your soda can at your Labor Day picnics last weekend? In late August/Early September, bees and wasps are highly visible, more persistent, and at their peak populations in social hives. We get a lot of calls this time of year asking what can be done to remove them from shared spaces. 

A yellowjacket flying low to the ground
A Yellowjacket. Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Thousands of described species are spread across 7 taxonomic families, worldwide. Eusocial species, like honeybees and paper wasps, have complex social structures that contribute to the overall survival of the hive. Meanwhile, a large majority of species are solitary and may live close to similar species but don't work together when it comes to provisioning resources or defending a territory. Diets range from carnivorous to herbivorous. However, most of them have developed a relationship with flowering plants in some capacity. Some are specialists, needing specific flowers for various resources, while others are generalists. Flowers have co-evolved with these insects so that they may benefit from the relationship via pollen distribution. Only those that help to move pollen are considered pollinators, though many may feed on floral resources. Entomologists dedicate their entire careers to understanding these insects and their complex relationships with the larger world. 

So why do they bother us around Labor Day but not so much during other summer picnics? A lot of it has to do with life cycles. By August, a hive has had a significant amount of time to establish. In spring, a queen will start a nest the size of a quarter. They aren’t on our mind so we’re not on the lookout. By now, some of those social nests can be the size of a basketball, or larger, with thousands of insects working for the good of the hive. At the same time, we're in the season when bees and wasps are on the lookout for sweet, sugary energy sources as their natural floral resources start to become scarce with the change of the seasons. Some become more protective of territory, trying to protect local resources and inadvertently mistake your sodas, fruit, and sweet picnic goodies as their next opportunity. Keeping drinks and food covered at picnics at this time of year is highly recommended to avoid attracting bees and wasps. If you grow fruit trees or berries, clean up any dropped fruit that could also attract these sugar fiends.  

In general terms, the easiest management strategy is to avoid the area, if possible. Hives built in low traffic areas can plausibly be left for the season, since workers will die out with colder weather. The only one to overwinter is the queen, and she will usually overwinter in leaf litter or plant material at ground level. In addition, wasps are not going to re-use their hives. The new queen will start fresh with her own nest, and her own colony come springtime. Next spring would be the time to scout for any unwanted guests and physically remove the beginnings of a nest early. This not only helps keep them out of your space but gives the queen time to reestablish a nest somewhere else that is safer for both parties and allows them to coexist with us more favorably. 

We always encourage having a bee or wasp identified before managing a nest, for a multitude of reasons. Your local beekeeper may be skilled and willing to help you remove a hive or swarm of honeybees from your property, but they won’t want to go near wasps any more than you might. Some species, like carpenter bees, may cause property damage and management may include removal of the bees as well as some minor carpentry repairs.  Others, like the Cicada Killer, may appear big and scary, but want nothing to do with humans and can be left alone to complete their season.  

If you or a family member has an allergy, damage is being done to property, or the nest is in a high traffic area, removal of the nest may be appropriate. Chemical management products, like bee and wasp sprays, are highly effective when used according to the label. These products will kill the insects. Not all products may fit all situations, so check labels carefully. As an example, sprays for ground bees and wasps should be labeled for ground use. Remember to read the label in its entirety before use and follow all instructions as written. Consider hiring a pest removal professional who can take the proper safety precautions. These professionals also know strategies that may help reduce the impact on nearby pollinators, treating only the problem at hand. 

If you have questions about bees or wasps or need help identifying them to navigate which action to take, the UConn Home & Garden Education Center is here to help!  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 6, 2025

Dodder – A Common but Weird Parasitic Plant

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dodder plant wrapped around a host and flowering
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dodder is an obligate parasite of certain plants. This unusual member of the morning glory family is also known as “Angel’s Hair” and “Strangle Weed.” Like Indian pipe, another parasitic plant, Dodder has no chlorophyll to manufacture its own food, so nutrients and water are obtained from its host plant.  Its yellow to orange twining stems can form stringy, dense orange mats that cover its host plants, and it will often climb over other nearby plants as well. This vine twines counterclockwise around stems and other parts of its host.  Look for it in mid- July through September in damp fields or on stream and pond banks. 

Dodder germinates from seeds produced in earlier years. The new plants have only a few days to find a suitable host plant, or they will die. After connecting with the host plant, dodder will degrade at the soil level where it originated and is then free of any soil contact. Dodder has no leaves or roots, but it does produce flowers and then seeds.  The only way new plants can be re-established is from seed produced at least the previous year or even earlier.  

Dodder feeds on its host by means of small tubes called haustoria that pierce into the hosts leaf or stem vascular system. One type will siphon water from the xylem, and another type will obtain food (minerals, sugars etc.) from the phloem of the host plant. In this way, dodder obtains essential nutrients and water for its own survival at the expense of its host plant. Five-angled dodder Cuscuta pentagona, a very common dodder species found here in Connecticut does not have specialized host plant preferences. 

Since not all plants are suitable hosts for dodder, and because it needs to find a host quickly, dodder has a unique ability to “sniff out” certain plant chemicals and will gravitate toward these plants soon after germination. Notable hosts are jewelweed in the wild and tomatoes in crop cultivation. Thus, if you are interested in finding dodder, in July and August check out places where jewelweed abounds. Look for mats of orange, stringy vines covering the tops of this plant and perhaps on nearby Joe-pye weed and goldenrods.  

Yellow strings of dodder encompassing plants in a field
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dodder seeds can survive in soil for twenty years or more and will germinate as conditions are suitable. Because of the longevity of its seed viability, dodder may be found either yearly in the same area or appear there years later. Flooding can also relocate the seeds, so it may appear along various spots along the same stream or pond. Look for its small white flowers appearing in clusters along the vine in late July and August. 

Once dodder is firmly established on the host plant in the wild, research has shown that removal of the host plants and the dodder, especially before seeds are set on the dodder, will be more effective than other methods. This may need to be done yearly until any seed bank is exhausted. Try to scout early in July as dodder is getting established. Sometimes small dodder plants can be removed from the host. Some people with dodder persisting in extensive areas have burned these sites, and this will also severely impact any seeds on the ground. 

Dodder is an aggressive plant, but it is not considered invasive because it is a native plant. It has received the dubious honor of making the Federal List of Noxious Weeds, though.  Although its hosts may be severely weakened, dodder does not always kill its host. While that is not reasonable cause to let it run rampant in a garden, in the wild it is in more of a tournament for survival. May the best plant win… 

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 1, 2025

Queen Anne’s Lace

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

A field of Queen Anne's Lace
Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Among the plants that have naturalized across this country, is the seemingly ubiquitous Queen Anne’s lace also known as the wild carrot. This herbaceous biennial originated around the Mediterranean region and western Asia. It is thought to be a wild ancestor of the carrot as both wild and domesticated carrots existed at least 5000 years ago. Anyone weeding or digging out Queen Anne’s lace from garden beds will notice the distinctive carrot smell of the taproots.

Pass almost any sunny roadside or field and you’ll find the delicate white lacy blossoms swaying in the breeze. Plants start out as small rosettes of fern-like, green leaves. The seeds can germinate throughout the growing season if enough moisture is present. Typically seeds germinate within a couple of years but they can remain viable for at least 7 years. A taproot develops where energy is stored for next year’s growth. The following spring, the plant produces more leaves, stalks and flowers. The lacy leaves are finely divided and tripinnate. The hairy, solid stem can grow up to 3 feet before the flower buds are formed.

Queen Anne’s lace blossoms typically appear from June through August in most areas. The tiny white flowers are clustered into a flat, terminal umbel from 2 to 4 inches across. Curiously, many flower heads have a single pinkish to purplish floret in the center. The color is due to the pigment, anthocyanin. For at least 150 years, botanists have been trying to figure out what purpose the dark colored floret serves. It is thought that perhaps it serves as an insect attractant but this remains to be confirmed.

Each floret on the umbel can produce 2 seeds. Since there might be 1000 florets making up the umbel, saying this plant is a prolific seeder is an understatement. In at least 35 states, it is considered a noxious weed as it displaces native vegetation. As the seeds ripen, the flower head curls inward like a closed fist or bird’s nest and turns brown. Eventually the dried seed head might detach from the stem and then it can be blown like a tumbleweed spreading its cache. This plant is especially problematic if it occurs where domesticated carrots are grown for their seed. Cross pollination could take place and the resulting seed would be useless. The seeds have hooked spines and can readily attach to cloth and fur.

An insect on a white floret.
Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Aside from its lovely, lacy flowers that hold up well in cut flower arrangements, Queen Anne’s lace serves as a host plant for the eastern black swallowtail caterpillar as well as providing a source of nectar for other butterfly species, bees and other pollinators.

Several seed companies offer varieties of Queen Anne’s lace that were bred or selected for their dark coloration. ‘Purple Kisses’ sports umbels in shades of dark purple and pink and is available from Johnny’s Seed. ‘Chocolate Lace’ from Seed Therapy comes in shades of burgundy, chocolate and dusty rose. Although I have not grown these varieties, I suspect they would also self-seed. A better option might be to try Ammi majus, called the Bishop’s flower or False Queen Anne’s lace. It is an annual with similar lacy, white flowers but I have not found it to be a prolific seeder especially if the flowers are used for cutting and not left to go to seed.

Being a member of the parsley (Apiaceae) family, Queen Anne’s lace is edible but not very flavorful. The flowers are sometimes used to make jelly. The root could be eaten when young but gets tough very fast. The seeds especially have been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. Reputedly this aromatic herb has many uses ranging from a love potion to soothing the digestive system, supporting the liver and for kidney and bladder diseases. If you are tempted to sample some Queen Anne’s lace, be very careful to identify it correctly. Other plants, such as poison hemlock have similar flowers and foliage but deadly outcomes.
As to how Queen Anne’s lace got its name, there are a number of anecdotes. Perhaps it resembled the lace collar or headdress of Queen Anne (1655-1714). Another story goes that she was tatting lace and pricked her figure leaving a drop of blood on the lace, representing the dark floret. Or it could be that the dark floret was thought to be the Queen and the white ones her maids. Geoffrey Grigson, an English botanist, conjectured that the name was in honor of St. Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary and the patron saint of lacemakers.
However Queen Anne’s lace got its name, one has to be in awe of how widespread it has become. Because plants are short-lived but prolific seeders, one way to control it is to remove the flower heads before they go to seed. They do make delightful cut flowers so make use of them in arrangements. You get to enjoy them and there is less seed out there.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 23, 2025