Newspaper Articles

The Carbon Sink Under Your Feet: Why Your Lawn Matters

Posted on March 21, 2026March 24, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

A close up of a field of green grass — Photo by Maria Kovalets on Unsplash

When we think of climate solutions in Connecticut, our minds usually go to big things such as offshore wind, public transit, and forests. We rarely think about our lawns. But soil science suggests that the roughly 40 to 50 million acres of lawn and managed turfgrass in the United States represent a large and often-overlooked opportunity to help keep carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere, especially when those landscapes are well managed. Although forests store far more carbon overall in wood and soil, lawns can still play a supporting role by storing carbon mostly belowground, as long as maintenance inputs like fertilizer, mowing fuel, and irrigation are kept in check. In other words, done well lawns can store carbon in soil; done poorly, those same inputs can wipe out the gains and even make a lawn a net source of emissions.

Your lawn and garden are not just aesthetic choices. They are living systems. Through photosynthesis, grass and other plants pull carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and turn it into sugars. Those sugars are basically “carbon packages” the plant uses to grow. Some of that carbon ends up in leaves, stems, and flowers, and some is sent belowground to build roots and feed soil microorganisms.

As roots and microorganisms grow, die back, and regrow, they add carbon-rich material to the soil. That material becomes part of the soil’s organic matter. In the Northeast, well-managed turfgrass can store carbon at meaningful rates, with published estimates often ranging from a few hundred to more than a thousand pounds of carbon per acre per year.

That same organic matter also gives soil what many gardeners call the “sponge” effect. It helps the ground absorb water, hold moisture longer, and maintain better structure. That means less runoff during storms, better drought tolerance during dry periods, and a healthier root zone overall. Healthier, carbon-rich soil helps a lawn do more than stay green. It helps the landscape better withstand weather stress and keeps more water and nutrients where they belong.

Management that Protects Soil Health

The benefits of a lawn or garden depend heavily on how it is managed. Poor soil management can weaken plant growth, reduce biological activity, and limit the soil’s ability to store carbon over time. If we want the lawn to store more carbon and withstand weather extremes better, management matters. We can start with the following practical steps.

First, test your soil and apply only what the test calls for. Guesswork often leads to over-application of fertilizer, especially phosphorus and nitrogen. Excess phosphorus wastes money, can upset nutrient balance, and increases the risk of runoff into local waterways, where it can contribute to algae overgrowth. Excess nitrogen is also a concern because it can be lost to the air as greenhouse gases and to water through leaching and runoff, affecting groundwater and streams. A soil test helps you target nutrients and lime where they are actually needed, supporting healthier roots and the soil biology that helps build carbon-rich soil over time.

Second, address compaction. When soil is compressed by repeated foot traffic or heavy equipment, it loses pore space. That limits air movement, reduces water infiltration, restricts root growth, and weakens biological activity. Carbon storage does not stop altogether, but the soil becomes less effective at building and holding additional organic matter. In lawns, core aeration can help relieve compaction.

Third, keep the soil covered. Dense grass cover and recycled clippings help shield the soil, reduce erosion, buffer moisture swings, and support soil life. This also supports soil carbon by keeping roots growing and by reducing the loss of carbon-rich soil through erosion and rapid drying. The key is to maintain healthy turf and avoid practices that leave bare ground for long periods.

A Landscape of Stewardship

For Connecticut lawns, the real test is not just how green they look in a good week. It is how well they hold up through heavy rain, summer dry spells, and changing weather patterns. That resilience starts in the soil.

A healthy, carbon-rich soil is one of the best ways to make a lawn more resilient. By focusing on plant-appropriate pH, good soil structure, and science-based nutrient management, we do more than improve how a landscape looks. We make it better able to absorb water, support plant growth, and store more carbon over time.

Your lawn will not solve climate change on its own. But better soil management can make it healthier, more resilient, and modestly better at storing carbon. That is a practical win for landowners, for water quality, and for the broader environment.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.   

Watch for these Temperatures this Spring

Posted on March 14, 2026March 17, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Emerging daffodil shoots growing at the base of a stone wall amid fallen leaves. — Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

With a taste of spring earlier in the week, gardeners are itching to get back out there for a little bit of sunshine and horticultural therapy. Don’t let the forecast fool you, we still have a stretch of time before we can really do many of the gardening activities we love.

Interestingly, there is a magic number for gardeners to watch out for. 50°F is a significant temperature for when we, as gardeners, can start to act. However, this temperature, in various applications, needs to be monitored to ensure we’re doing the right activities at the right time.

The first thing we will look for in the spring is air temperature above 50°F during the day. Unfortunately, the couple of days we had last week weren’t enough to really set off the start whistles for us. Consistency is key. When we hit this consistent daytime temperature, we start to see more obvious signs of seasonal changes. With a sustained air temperature above 50°F during the day, we can start to do things like clean out our gardens. Many species of pollinators and beneficial insects will start to become active at these temperatures. While a more accurate tool, known as Growing Degree Days (GDD) can help you identify the specific needs of specific species of both plant and insect development, this rule of thumb gives us a guideline to start with. Remove thick, dense piles of wet and matted leaves, or consider gently fluffing them up with a rake. A one-to-two-inch layer can benefit our plants as a natural mulch, but dense piles should be relocated to compost or the edge of the wood line. If you encourage pollinator habitat, avoid shredding or mulching leaf material as an extra protective measure for any stragglers that may be slow to wake up.

Soil warms much slower than the ambient air temperature, so while it may feel comfortable to work outside, the soil may not be primed for activity. We commonly encourage gardeners to monitor for a soil temperature consistently above 50°F as another milestone. This guideline is found to be the baseline for germination rates of many warm-season plants, and sustained temperatures above this threshold are necessary to promote growth. Cool season annuals and perennials will have different soil temperature thresholds for germination and success. In addition, this is an ideal temperature range for many garden products like fertilizers and pre-emergent herbicides to be effective. As always, check the product label for specifics on temperature ranges, as different products and different species of plants all have different needs. While we get a daily forecast almost anywhere for air temperatures, soil can be a bit more challenging to track. Use tools like Cornell’s Fore Cast or similar resources to help track local soil temperatures.

The last big milestone in the spring comes when nighttime air temperatures consistently reach 50°F or higher. At this point many of our houseplants and tender annuals, including warm-season vegetables, can be planted in the garden or put out onto the patio without protection. This is the stage where we truly feel like spring has arrived and our gardening is in full swing.

When we have a typical season, these benchmarks tend to happen in order. Days get warmer, soil follows suit, and nighttime temperatures are the last to stabilize. However, occasionally, the seasons can throw us a curveball and these may not sync up exactly as planned. Always monitor them as separate markers for the best outcomes in your garden.

By watching these temperature thresholds as the season unfolds, we give our gardens the best possible start. These guidelines are a great place to start for the beginning gardener, and tools like the soil temperature map and growing degree days are there to help the advanced gardener fine tune their practice. Whatever your skill level, we’re here to help you grow!

Seed Starting, Simplified

Posted on March 7, 2026March 23, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Seed-starting trays with tiny green seedlings emerging in soil — Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Growing plants from seed is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. In Connecticut, late winter is the time to start many cold-weather crops indoors, so they’re strong and ready to move outside after the last frost. Starting seeds requires a fair amount of attention, but you don’t need any special tools – this is an affordable project that anyone can tackle.

Start by choosing seeds from a New England or Connecticut–based company. Local seed companies offer varieties adapted to our shorter growing season and changing spring temperatures. One seed packet is usually enough for a 10- to 30-foot row. To determine when to start your seeds, use a calendar and the most up-to-date forecast for the last frost. Write the sowing date on each seed packet, then group packets with similar planting times together to stay organized.

You don’t need any fancy equipment to sow your seeds. All you need are containers with drainage holes and catch trays for excess water. Reuse items from around the house – Styrofoam cups, yogurt or cottage cheese containers, salad tubs, plastic takeout boxes, egg cartons – the list goes on! Before planting, wash containers with soap and water, then rinse with a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water to prevent disease.

Choose a commercial seed-starting mix that is loose and drains well. Garden soil is not recommended because it is not sterile and can introduce mold or disease. Fill containers to about one inch from the top with a moistened seed-starting mix. Level and gently firm the surface. If planting more than one type of seed in a container, make shallow rows and sow seeds evenly. If planting just one type, you can scatter them lightly across the surface. Make sure to label them immediately before or after sowing. Then, cover your seeds with a thin layer of vermiculite or seed-starting mix. Very tiny seeds should remain uncovered. Mist gently with water or set the container in a pan of warm water to moisten from below. Cover the container loosely with plastic wrap or a plastic bag to hold in moisture. You likely won’t need to water again until seeds germinate. Place trays in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Once seedlings emerge, remove the plastic and move them to a bright window with indirect light. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings, but don’t let the seedlings wilt. If needed, thin them out by snipping extras at the soil line with scissors. If they outgrow their containers, you can transplant them into individual pots once they develop one set of true leaves.

Seedlings must adjust gradually to outdoor conditions, a process called “hardening off.” Start by placing them outside in part shade, protected from wind, for about a week. Bring them in at night before temperatures drop. During the second week, slowly increase sun exposure. Start by leaving them outside in direct sunlight for an hour for the first day, and then increasing the amount of time each consecutive day. After this week, if no freezing temperatures are expected, plants can remain outside until transplanting. Hardening off is important in the seed sowing process: skipping this step can lead to sunburned, damaged leaves.

Choose a cloudy day to transplant your seedlings to reduce shock. Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Gently remove the plant from its container with a spoon, keeping as much soil around the roots as possible. Try not to grasp the plant by its stem; this can cause serious damage. Set it in the hole at the same depth it was growing in its container. Fill the hole gently, without packing the soil tightly around the roots.

Annual flowers like marigolds and zinnias are excellent for beginners. Check the seed packet to determine how many weeks are needed before transplanting outdoors. In late winter, gardeners can start artichokes, perennial herbs, chard, salad greens, onions, leeks and more. By late February/early March, sow cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and kale. Tomatoes and peppers can also be started indoors for transplanting later in spring. In New England, peas can be planted outdoors as soon as the soil is workable.

Starting seeds indoors may seem technical at first, but it’s simply a matter of timing, clean containers, good grow mix, and patience. With a little planning now, your garden will be off to a strong start when warm weather finally arrives.

Potted Bulbs for Color and Scent

Posted on February 28, 2026March 6, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Potted hyacinths and freesia plants sit on a windowsill, with purple blooms and green leaves contrasted against a snowy outdoor scene visible through the window. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

With snow covered gardens and more wintry weather on the way, many of us can’t resist the temptation to purchase potted hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, primroses and other delightful spring blooming plants to bring some early color and fragrance to our homes. It was especially difficult to leave the Connecticut Flower and Garden Show last week without an armload of plants forced into bloom.

To enjoy your plants to the fullest, here are some tips on caring for them. First realize that these plants were ‘forced’ into bloom at an earlier time than they would on their own. Growers manipulate the growing conditions of the plants by regulating temperature, light and moisture. This does stress plants somewhat so depending on the type of bulb, some may or may not bloom again.

If you have not purchased any pots of forced bulbs yet but are planning to, select ones that are still budded or ones where just a few flowers have opened. This will ensure a longer bloom period for you to enjoy. If temperatures are below 40 F, it is best to bag or wrap the plant in the store to keep the blossoms and foliage from cold injury and get the plants home as soon as possible. Leaving them in an unheated car in frigid temperatures is not a good idea.

Whether you’ve chosen to bring home spring flowering bulbs, like hyacinths, or a hardy perennial, like primroses, they pretty much all have similar requirements as houseplants. All these plants appreciate being kept in cool temperatures with between 50 and 60 F being optimum and 70 F probably being the upper limit. Warmer temperatures will cause plant growth and flowering to speed up so your blooms won’t last as long.

Bright indirect light for 6 to 8 hours of the day will keep your plants growing longer. Lately with the cloudy weather and limited sunshine, most of us can keep plants in a south window this time of year as the sun’s light is less intense and also, sparser than we would hope. Usually, the temperatures near windows are much cooler than other areas of the house.

All of these plants, as well as most other houseplants, grow best when kept moderately moist. Avoid overwatering or having pots sit in water as that can lead to root rots. I’ve noticed growers shying away from peat based potting mixes that were more moisture retentive. So, check plants every other day at first to see when they are in need of watering. While the plastic or foil pot wraps might make your selection look more appealing, they often do not have drainage holes so if pots are overwatered, the excess water stays in the wrap and the roots remain saturated and prone to rot. I like to water these plants by taking them out of the wrap, bringing them to the sink and applying enough water so that it runs out the bottom for a half minute or so and then let them sit in the sink until excess water drains out. Then return to their wrap or better yet, a saucer where excess water can be easily seen and dumped.

As far as fertilizing goes, it depends on whether you want to keep these plants and set them out in your garden when warmer weather arrives or will they get relegated to the compost or trash heap. If you intend to plant them out, then fertilize them using a half strength houseplant fertilizer every other week. The reason being you want the green foliage to photosynthesize as much as possible before the plants go dormant. The food produced by this process will enable the bulbs to sprout and grow next year. Even if not planted out, perennials like primroses will bloom for a longer period of time inside if regularly fertilized.

I have found flowering bulbs, like hyacinths and daffodils, to come back pretty successfully when planted in the garden, while having little success with tulips, unless they are species tulips or some of the smaller Greigii varieties. If keeping bulbs for planting out, remove the flower stem after blooms have faded but keep watering foliage until it starts to fade and brown. Remove the dying leaves and then the pot can be moved to a cool, dimly lit spot and just kept barely moist until the soil can be worked in the spring.

For primroses, remove the flower stalks as blossoms fade. Depending on the species purchased, your plants may or may not be hardy outside. Hopefully the plant tag will mention hardiness zones or at least give you the species so you can look it up. Primroses can be kept as houseplants but they do require cool temperatures, bright indirect lighting and regular fertilizing and watering when forming buds and in bloom. In the garden, primroses sulk in hot weather often dying back until next spring when cooler temperatures prevail.

With a little care, flowering bulbs and other plants can liven up these dreary winter days. At least they let us know, spring is right around the corner.

Planting Bare Root Trees and Shrubs

Posted on February 21, 2026February 26, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

A tractor with an orange front loader lifts a large wooden crate containing bundled bare-root trees from the back of a delivery truck near a wooded area. — A bundle of bare root apple trees. By Andrew Hoagland.

Bare root trees and shrubs, as the name suggests, are not sold in a pot or balled and burlapped. At the nursery bare root plants are grown in the ground, harvested as young plants, and sold without soil surrounding the roots. They are sold while the plant is dormant, usually in late winter or early spring and are best planted while they are still dormant or just before bud break. Historically, they have been used for agriculture or conservation plantings but they are also suitable for the home landscape. Bare root trees and shrubs are a great choice if you need a lot of plant material or are on a tight budget.

Consider using bare root trees and shrubs to provide structure in your garden, to create wildlife habitat, for erosion control, or to start your home orchard or tree farm. Additionally, bare root plants are perfect for planting a hedge because they are similar in size, establish quickly, and don’t require too much digging. They will take longer to fill in the hedge than containerized plants, but they will cost a lot less money. Many popular landscape trees and shrubs are available as bare root plants.

Choose a reputable nursery or grower, preferably one that is growing regionally adapted plants. In New England, choose a grower in the Northeastern United States. When choosing species to purchase, have planting goals in mind. These goals can be those previously mentioned or other goals like revegetating an area with native plants after removing invasive plants. As with any planting project, consider the right plant for the right place. Choose species that are suited to the growing conditions of the planting area. Consider sun exposure, soil characteristics, hardiness zone, plant size at maturity, and location of underground utilities.

Before purchasing bare root plants, have a plan with all the above considerations addressed. Unlike containerized plants, bare root plants have a very specific and narrow timeline for purchasing and planting. They are typically shipped in the early spring, around the time they should be planted.

To keep plants dormant before planting, they can be placed in the fridge or in an unheated garage or basement. They can be stored dormant in the original shipping package for no more than two weeks before planting. Mist the roots every few days so they do not dry out during cold storage.

Planting bare root plants is done in the early spring before buds open or late fall after the plant goes dormant but before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, they should not be planted too deep. The root flare, or transitional part of the plant between the roots and stem, should be level with the soil. Add a layer of mulch or compost but avoid piling mulch too high up the trunk. Water weekly, or more often under dry conditions, during the first year after planting. Protection from deer and rodents is important when planting young tender trees and shrubs. Use a tree tube or fencing to discourage browsing.

Keeping Valentines Day Flowers Fresh

Posted on February 15, 2026February 26, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Valentine’s Day is one of the biggest holidays, next to Mother’s Day, in the floral industry. Whether you’re buying fresh cut flowers, or a potted plant for someone special, helping them keep those flowers looking their best can be part of the gift you give this year.

Pink, yellow, and purple Alstroemeria flowers arranged together in a small bouquet with green leaves. — Photo by H. Zidack

Start by selecting flowers that look healthy and vibrant. You want flowers with firm petals, with buds just starting to open or have just recently opened. Avoid flowers that are releasing pollen, are discolored, or have drooping foliage. Check the stems for rigidity and make sure that plant material is clean with no indications of mold or decay. When you purchase your flowers, many florists will give you packaging to help reduce their exposure to the extreme cold as you carry them to your car. This is an important step, so don’t skip it if you can! Avoiding large temperature fluctuations will keep your flowers fresh for longer.

When you get home with your flowers find a vase that is clean and free of debris. Always wash vases with warm, soapy water in between uses to prevent the transmission of bacteria and disease from one bouquet to the next. Add fresh, tepid water. Remove all plastic, rubber bands, and other packaging from your bouquet. Cut each flower stem at a 45-degree angle using hand pruners or snips. Using scissors, or knives that aren’t sharp may crush the vascular tissue and prevent the flowers from taking up water, leading to faster decline. Remove any leaves that would sit below the water line before placing stems into the vase.

If you have a bouquet of roses, take special care when you are preparing their stems. These flowers will live longer if you cut their stems under water, using the same 45-degree angle, and place them in your vase of water as quickly as possible. This extra step ensures that air bubbles don’t work their way into the vascular tissue and will keep your roses fresh for longer. When we see roses develop a “floppy neck,” this is most often the cause. While it is possible to revive your roses from this issue, it is best to try to avoid it altogether.

There are many anecdotes out there regarding additives to provide food and antimicrobial agents to the water to help your flowers last longer. Many of these anecdotes aren’t based in research. If your bouquet comes with a flower food packet, mix it as instructed and use it in your vase. However, if you don’t have one, don’t worry about adding anything. Instead, focus on ensuring that you are giving your flowers fresh, clean water.

Decay and microbial growth are two of the biggest reasons our cut flowers pass quickly. Many of the strategies mentioned above help to mitigate this concern, but it is important to keep a watchful eye. Besides washing your vase in between use, sanitize your flower snips or pruners in between uses as well and watch the water quality in your vase, replacing it every couple of days with fresh, cool, water. Always change the water if it appears murky or cloudy in the vase.

When changing your water, make a fresh cut 1-2 inches up the stem to ensure that the vascular system is staying open and clean of any debris or bacteria. If stems are starting to get mushy, cut high enough above the decay, or consider removing the stem entirely from the arrangement. Keep your flowers in a location that is bright but avoid direct sunlight, and keep them away from drafts, or entryways where large temperature fluctuations are likely. Lastly, know when to say goodbye and dispose of any flowers that are past bloom, or showing signs of decay. You may notice that you’ll need a smaller vase as you cut your stems shorter or remove flowers as they pass. A mason jar makes for a great display for those longest lasting flowers!

There’s no doubt that fresh flowers bring vibrancy and life into our homes during these blustery, winter months. Whether you’re buying a bouquet for yourself, or for someone special this Valentine’s day, keep a close eye on them and you’ll be sure to have long lasting blooms to enjoy!

Microplastics in Garden Soils: Should Homeowners Worry?

Posted on February 7, 2026February 26, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Colorful plastic fragments scattered across dark soil. — Photo by Avishesh Neupane

If you spread compost on your garden this year, there is a good chance you added a little plastic, too. Researchers around the world are now finding microplastics – tiny plastic fragments and fibers smaller than a grain of rice – in garden soils and compost products that look perfectly normal to the naked eye. In one recent study of commercial composts, every single one of the 11 products tested contained microplastics, with cleaner, eco-labeled brands still showing lower but measurable levels.

That raises a fair question for Connecticut homeowners: Should you worry about microplastics in your yard? The short answer is don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either. Microplastics are not a crisis that should send you ripping out your raised beds, but they are a good reason to be mindful about how plastic moves through our gardens and to be choosy about what we bring in.

Where are microplastics coming from?

Microplastics in garden soil mostly come from everyday sources. Composts and organic fertilizers made from mixed municipal waste or sewage sludge can carry plastic fragments and fibers, and biosolid-based fertilizers have been identified as a major pathway for microplastics into farm and lawn soils. Plastic-coated, slow-release fertilizers can contribute microplastics as their coatings weather and break down. In yards and gardens, plant tags, synthetic twine, netting, and landscape fabric can also fragment into tiny pieces when mixed into soil or added to the compost pile. On top of that, particles from tire wear, litter, and degraded plastics elsewhere can settle out of the air or arrive with runoff.

What they mean for your yard and produce

Scientists are still figuring out the full story, but some patterns are emerging. Lab and greenhouse studies show that plastic particles can affect earthworms and microbes and, in some cases, reduce seed germination, root growth, and nutrient uptake. What this means for a typical Connecticut backyard is still being studied, and while the highest documented levels of microplastics are in intensively treated farm soils, we don’t yet have enough data to say exactly how home gardens compare. Based on what we know so far, microplastics don’t appear to be an immediate emergency in your yard, but they are a good reason to take soil seriously and to reduce plastic input wherever you can. You can’t control every particle that drifts in on the wind, but you can control much of what you deliberately put on your soil and avoid adding unnecessary plastic to a system you want to keep healthy for decades.

One of the biggest questions for homeowners is whether these particles enter food crops in significant amounts. While lab studies show that tiny plastic particles can interact with roots and potentially enter plant tissues, scientists are still working to understand how often this happens in a typical backyard and what it actually means for human health. For now, most scientists emphasize source control, i.e., reducing inputs, as the most practical step. That is something gardeners are already good at: choosing better materials, building healthy soil, and asking hard questions about what they buy.

Practical steps to reduce plastic in your garden soil

Simple shifts in what you apply to your yards can greatly reduce microplastic inputs. Be choosy about compost and soil amendments. Ask what went into bagged or bulk compost, and favor products made from yard waste, leaves, or clean food scraps over those blended with municipal solid waste or sewage sludge. Avoid fertilizers and composts listing “biosolids,” “sewage sludge,” or “municipal residuals,” which are known sources of microplastics. Rethink plastic-coated fertilizers, as their coatings break down into microplastics. Keep plastic out of your compost stream by removing plant tags, synthetic twine, and landscape fabric scraps whenever you can. Skip thin plastic mulches and cheap fabrics and use shredded leaves, wood chips, cardboard, or durable, reusable barriers. And don’t underestimate your own leaves and grass clippings; they are low in plastic, build organic matter and structure, and improve soil without adding new plastic sources. We may not be able to garden without any plastic in the 21^stcentury, but we can make sure that the soil under our feet isn’t quietly becoming a plastic landfill in slow motion.

How Connecticut is already acting on related concerns

Connecticut has not yet written microplastic standards for garden products, but the state has moved aggressively on a closely related issue. As of October 1, 2024, Connecticut banned the use or sale of any soil amendment made from biosolids or wastewater sludge that contains PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, a group of persistent “forever chemicals”), and on July 1, 2025, extended the ban to PFAS-containing biosolid fertilizers. Those laws are aimed at chemicals, not microplastics, but they target many of the same products. To read more about this law, read our article here.

A Spider Everyone Can Love

Posted on February 1, 2026February 2, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Hanging pot of a spider plant with long, arching green leaves striped with white, labeled with a small wooden plant marker. — Chlorophytum comosum, the Spider Plant (photo by M. Lisy).

Spiders are one of those creatures that humans fear. Most here in the Northeast are totally harmless, yet many times people run and occasionally hurt themselves trying to get away from them. As such, it is interesting to me that one of our most beloved plants is called “Spider Plant.” Its growth does superficially resemble a spider, but this one brings joy to its owners. In fact, it is one of the hardiest of all our houseplants.

Scientifically it is known as Chlorophytum comosum, and there is quite a bit of controversy in the scientific community over species. In the pictures accompanying this article, the differences in the leaves can be clearly seen. The great debate stems from (pun intended) differences in leaf shape. Scientists cannot decide on whether those differences represent phenotypic variation (changes in shape found within a population) or differences between species. And while it seems like this should be an easy task, look at all the differences seen in dogs, which are all the same species. While the leaves on our houseplants most likely represent different artificially selected cultivars (varieties), determining how many there are in the wild is difficult. Plants normally have some ability to change the shape of their leaves. For example, plants grown in shade tend to have larger leaves than those grown in full sun. These plants are native to South Africa, and tend to grown in forests, which could explain why such variation is seen in the wild. There were two other species listed for a while, but then those got lumped back in to C. comosum and their differences chalked up to environmental variation.

In reality, how many species there are does not really matter for us keeping these wonderful houseplants. What does matter is their forgiving nature. They grow and thrive in any typical houseplant soil. It is best to let the surface dry before watering again. They have an interesting root system that is part of the key to their success. The thick, tuberous roots store water, and that is why they can survive for much longer than other houseplants. When repotting, it is amazing how they fill the pot completely with roots. Although it sounds like this might become a problem, the Spider Plant does not mind. It responds with more leaves, and even babies.

Four close-up views of a single variegated spider plant leaf on a dark surface, showing its green edges and white center stripe from different angles. — Spider Plant varieties, clockwise from the top left: a) from my first-grade teacher - narrow leaf with thin green stripe, b) wide leaf with wide white stripe, c) all green wide leaf, d) green leaf with white edges (photos by M. Lisy).

The Spider Plant is easily propagated by planting the little plantlets that form along runners sent out by the mother plant. Simply plant these in typical houseplant soil, water well, and they will start to grow. As they do not have a fully developed root system yet, care must be taken to not let them dry out during the beginning stages. This plant is probably the most easily propagated houseplant. I still have one propagated by my first-grade teacher. It grew in the classroom when I was there, and two years later when my sister had the same teacher, it had produced babies that were sent home with each student. Despite all of life’s ups and downs, the plant is still going and thriving almost half a century later.

There are a number of interesting varieties of this plant. The leaves can be narrow, wide, or curled. The colors of the leaves are interesting as well, and can be found in any combination of leaf-types. There are green leaves with a white center stripe. Alternatively, there are green leaves with white edges. As one would expect, there are all green leaves too. Although I do not have one yet, there is a variety called ‘Hawaiian’ that has a green leaf with a yellow center. Don’t be fooled by some so-called Spider Plants that are purple – those are actually Tradescantia, or Spiderworts, which are a totally different species of plant native to the Americas. No matter which variety is chosen, with proper care Spider Plants could bring the owner enjoyment for a lifetime!

Beech Bark Disease – One More Problem For Connecticut Beech Trees

Posted on January 25, 2026February 2, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Rough, cracked beech bark covered in circular, raised scale infestations with a hand resting on the trunk for size reference. — Evidence of insect damage on beech. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American beeches have been suffering from beech leaf disease that is widespread in both Connecticut landscapes and forests. The prognosis for this disease is currently uncertain, but research is investigating treatments and other methods for possible control. This disease is evident from dark bands appearing on the leaves, so homeowners can to some extent seek help from licensed arborists once this symptom is evident.

Meanwhile, beech bark disease is also becoming a major threat to American beech (Fagus grandifolia) in eastern North America. This disease is a result of an interaction between a scale insect and one of two Nectria fungal pathogens. When these scales are present, beech bark disease has an increased chance of infecting the tree. The scale responsible was introduced from Europe and first appeared in Nova Scotia around 1890, according to researchers. Within forty years, the fungal pathogen combined with heavy infestations of the beech scale were killing trees, although only in Eastern Canada and Maine.

The scale insect, Cryptococcus fagisuga, will attack American beech, European beech (Fagus sylvatica) as well as Chinese and Oriental beeches, F. enleriana and F. orientalis, respectively. The scale insects pierce through the thin bark of the beeches with a stylet and inject enzymes to help digest the plant material. These small wounds in the tree can now be the entry point of fungal pathogens, including the two native Nectria spp. that can cause beech bark disease.

Adults mate and females lay eggs in mid- summer. Eggs hatch from late summer until early winter and form a waxy white covering. These scale insects often go unnoticed until they develop a “woolly” appearance which is evident in the winter. The immature scales overwinter on the tree, and the next year will become adults. If you notice white woolly scale insects on beeches, especially on trunks, these are likely the beech bark scale. In two to three years, scale populations can reach high levels where the trunks may appear white. Scales do not have wings, but they can be blown by the wind to new trees or transported by birds or even humans.

Disease symptoms take several years to develop after scales appear. Anyone hiking through the forests of Connecticut has probably noticed disfigured bark caused by the Nectria pathogens responsible for beech bark disease. In severely infected trees, living tissue just beneath the outer bark is killed. Cankers appear looking like rough, raised, circular disks. Fungal fruiting bodies appear in the center of these raised circles. Sometimes there are so many red fruiting bodies of the fungus that large areas of the trunk appear red. Over time, bark may crack and split off. Trunks of weakened trees can snap in high wind events. Nectria kills areas of woody tissue, sometimes creating cankers on the tree stem and large branches which in turn weaken the tree. Infected trees can thus be susceptible to other diseases and insects.

So, this is not a happy tale, but homeowners do have some good news. Controlling the scale on any ornamental or native beeches on a property resulting in the absence of these scale insects will prevent beech bark disease. Because beech can form thick stands, thin some smaller trees out so the remaining trees will retain vigor. Make sure trees that have no scale present, and no disfigured bark are left with good space between them.

In case you may need an arborist, the Connecticut Tree Protective Association has licensed arborists that can help you assess the situation with your trees. A licensed arborist will be the best choice in any case. They will be educated in tree insect and disease problems and their solutions, if any are available. Contact the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station Forestry and Horticulture department for the latest news and control options for disease and insect problems. Hopefully, your beech trees will never have problems.

Camellias for Color, Inside and Out

Posted on January 18, 2026January 22, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

The image shows a plant with dark green leaves and vibrant red flowers with yellow stamens. The background has colorful lights. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Now that the holidays are over, the decorations are put away and scenes of dreary, wintry weather dance in our heads, one plant with flowers resembling roses that comes into bloom this time of year are camellias. These Asian natives have been cultivated for possibly 5000 years. Most of us are familiar with Camellia sinensis var. sinensis aka, tea! Black tea, white tea, green tea all come from the same plant just processed differently.

Other camellia species were noted and grown for their flowers gracing gardens of temples and nobility. Prized plants were selected and crossed and eventually made their way to England, sometime in the 1730s. These elegant and highly treasured plants soon were spread all over Europe with hybridists and propagators in Italy, France, Belgium, Holland, Portugal, Spain, Germany and the U.K. by the middle of the 19th century. More and more hybrids and cultivars were being developed with the number now well over 3,000. As their popularity grew, camellias were soon being grown in Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Societies, like the American Camellia Society sprang up and shows were held (and still are) to exhibit various forms and compete for awards.

Options for growing camellias in Connecticut depend on what part of the state you live in. Thanks to breeding efforts of Dr. William Ackerman (retired USDA plant breeder) and Dr Clifford Parks (Univ of NC botanist) varieties of camellias hardy to zone 6 (-10 F) were developed. Depending on the variety and environmental conditions, camellias can bloom from fall to spring. Many of the most popular cold hardy, fall blooming cultivars belong to the Winter Series bred by Ackerman and include plants such as ‘Polar Ice’, Winter Charm’ and ‘Winter Rose’, the latter reaching only 2 to 3 feet high and wide making it a possibility for container culture.

Dr. Parks focused on cold hardy spring bloomers including the April series (C. japonica hybrids). Many grow from 5 to 10 feet tall and can be found at some local nurseries. Look for ‘April Rose’, ‘April Blush’, ‘April Remembered’ and ‘April Tryst’.

Keep in mind that our weather has been somewhat unpredictable so those in zone 6 might want to locate plants in a semi-shaded, protected location. Camellia flowers are just exquisite, resembling roses in colors ranging from white to pink to red. Some are picoteed, some are double and some are very fragrant. The dark green foliage holds up year-round.

The image shows a close-up of a delicate flower with soft pink petals, yellow stamens, and glossy green leaves. The background is slightly blurred. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Camellias, being broad-leaved evergreen shrubs, have similar requirements to rhododendrons. They do best in an acidic, well-drained soil amended with organic matter. It is often best to group them for effect and also for some protection from the elements. Plants are slow-growing and need adequate moisture but avoid planting them in poorly drained sites. Semi to full shade is preferable as the leaves may scorch in sunny, dry areas. A fertilizer for acid-loving plants can be applied in early spring as directed on the package. Pruning is rarely needed but could be done right after flowering.

I’ve never been fortunate to live in a warm enough location to plant camellias outdoors, but several cultivars are perfect as house plants if kept in a cool spot indoors. Two available from Logee’s in Danielson are ‘High Fragrance’ with delightfully scented light pink semi-double flowers and ‘Scentuous’ with fragrant, semi-double white blossoms. They have others blooming in their greenhouse.

Growing camellias in containers is a splendid way to get winter color, often along with fragrance. According to Logee’s co-owner and horticulturist, Bryron Martin, plants require an acid soil with a pH around 4.8 to 5.8. They can be grown in a camellia/azalea potting mix. Martin advises that young plants can be pinched back for fuller growth although that will delay flowering a bit. Keep in mind that some cultivars can get up to 6 feet in height so either select those that mature at a smaller size or be sure you have space to accommodate them.

Temperature is key to induce blooms. Ideally Martin recommends nighttime temperatures no higher than 59 F during the winter and preferably 30 – 40 F so an unheated room or sun porch is a great place for camellias. If nighttime temperatures are too high, the buds will drop. An east or west exposure will provide adequate light.

Fertilize camellias in the spring when active growth begins. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants as directed. Commercial synthetic and organic camellia fertilizers are available. Some growers use a cottonseed meal/bloodmeal homemade blend. To supply adequate magnesium to plants, Martin recommends dissolving 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water and applying this mixture twice a year.

For late fall through spring blossoms, indoors or out, camellias are attractive, evocative plants that perhaps more folks might consider cultivating. Those looking for a Valentine’s Day activity might consider the Camellia Festival at Planting Fields in Oyster Bay, NY. The Lyman estate in Waltham, MA also has a camellia greenhouse that is open to the public.

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