Newspaper Articles

Potted Bulbs for Color and Scent

Posted on February 28, 2026March 6, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Potted hyacinths and freesia plants sit on a windowsill, with purple blooms and green leaves contrasted against a snowy outdoor scene visible through the window. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

With snow covered gardens and more wintry weather on the way, many of us can’t resist the temptation to purchase potted hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, primroses and other delightful spring blooming plants to bring some early color and fragrance to our homes. It was especially difficult to leave the Connecticut Flower and Garden Show last week without an armload of plants forced into bloom.

To enjoy your plants to the fullest, here are some tips on caring for them. First realize that these plants were ‘forced’ into bloom at an earlier time than they would on their own. Growers manipulate the growing conditions of the plants by regulating temperature, light and moisture. This does stress plants somewhat so depending on the type of bulb, some may or may not bloom again.

If you have not purchased any pots of forced bulbs yet but are planning to, select ones that are still budded or ones where just a few flowers have opened. This will ensure a longer bloom period for you to enjoy. If temperatures are below 40 F, it is best to bag or wrap the plant in the store to keep the blossoms and foliage from cold injury and get the plants home as soon as possible. Leaving them in an unheated car in frigid temperatures is not a good idea.

Whether you’ve chosen to bring home spring flowering bulbs, like hyacinths, or a hardy perennial, like primroses, they pretty much all have similar requirements as houseplants. All these plants appreciate being kept in cool temperatures with between 50 and 60 F being optimum and 70 F probably being the upper limit. Warmer temperatures will cause plant growth and flowering to speed up so your blooms won’t last as long.

Bright indirect light for 6 to 8 hours of the day will keep your plants growing longer. Lately with the cloudy weather and limited sunshine, most of us can keep plants in a south window this time of year as the sun’s light is less intense and also, sparser than we would hope. Usually, the temperatures near windows are much cooler than other areas of the house.

All of these plants, as well as most other houseplants, grow best when kept moderately moist. Avoid overwatering or having pots sit in water as that can lead to root rots. I’ve noticed growers shying away from peat based potting mixes that were more moisture retentive. So, check plants every other day at first to see when they are in need of watering. While the plastic or foil pot wraps might make your selection look more appealing, they often do not have drainage holes so if pots are overwatered, the excess water stays in the wrap and the roots remain saturated and prone to rot. I like to water these plants by taking them out of the wrap, bringing them to the sink and applying enough water so that it runs out the bottom for a half minute or so and then let them sit in the sink until excess water drains out. Then return to their wrap or better yet, a saucer where excess water can be easily seen and dumped.

As far as fertilizing goes, it depends on whether you want to keep these plants and set them out in your garden when warmer weather arrives or will they get relegated to the compost or trash heap. If you intend to plant them out, then fertilize them using a half strength houseplant fertilizer every other week. The reason being you want the green foliage to photosynthesize as much as possible before the plants go dormant. The food produced by this process will enable the bulbs to sprout and grow next year. Even if not planted out, perennials like primroses will bloom for a longer period of time inside if regularly fertilized.

I have found flowering bulbs, like hyacinths and daffodils, to come back pretty successfully when planted in the garden, while having little success with tulips, unless they are species tulips or some of the smaller Greigii varieties. If keeping bulbs for planting out, remove the flower stem after blooms have faded but keep watering foliage until it starts to fade and brown. Remove the dying leaves and then the pot can be moved to a cool, dimly lit spot and just kept barely moist until the soil can be worked in the spring.

For primroses, remove the flower stalks as blossoms fade. Depending on the species purchased, your plants may or may not be hardy outside. Hopefully the plant tag will mention hardiness zones or at least give you the species so you can look it up. Primroses can be kept as houseplants but they do require cool temperatures, bright indirect lighting and regular fertilizing and watering when forming buds and in bloom. In the garden, primroses sulk in hot weather often dying back until next spring when cooler temperatures prevail.

With a little care, flowering bulbs and other plants can liven up these dreary winter days. At least they let us know, spring is right around the corner.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

Planting Bare Root Trees and Shrubs

Posted on February 21, 2026February 26, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

A tractor with an orange front loader lifts a large wooden crate containing bundled bare-root trees from the back of a delivery truck near a wooded area. — A bundle of bare root apple trees. By Andrew Hoagland.

Bare root trees and shrubs, as the name suggests, are not sold in a pot or balled and burlapped. At the nursery bare root plants are grown in the ground, harvested as young plants, and sold without soil surrounding the roots. They are sold while the plant is dormant, usually in late winter or early spring and are best planted while they are still dormant or just before bud break. Historically, they have been used for agriculture or conservation plantings but they are also suitable for the home landscape. Bare root trees and shrubs are a great choice if you need a lot of plant material or are on a tight budget.

Consider using bare root trees and shrubs to provide structure in your garden, to create wildlife habitat, for erosion control, or to start your home orchard or tree farm. Additionally, bare root plants are perfect for planting a hedge because they are similar in size, establish quickly, and don’t require too much digging. They will take longer to fill in the hedge than containerized plants, but they will cost a lot less money. Many popular landscape trees and shrubs are available as bare root plants.

Choose a reputable nursery or grower, preferably one that is growing regionally adapted plants. In New England, choose a grower in the Northeastern United States. When choosing species to purchase, have planting goals in mind. These goals can be those previously mentioned or other goals like revegetating an area with native plants after removing invasive plants. As with any planting project, consider the right plant for the right place. Choose species that are suited to the growing conditions of the planting area. Consider sun exposure, soil characteristics, hardiness zone, plant size at maturity, and location of underground utilities.

Before purchasing bare root plants, have a plan with all the above considerations addressed. Unlike containerized plants, bare root plants have a very specific and narrow timeline for purchasing and planting. They are typically shipped in the early spring, around the time they should be planted.

To keep plants dormant before planting, they can be placed in the fridge or in an unheated garage or basement. They can be stored dormant in the original shipping package for no more than two weeks before planting. Mist the roots every few days so they do not dry out during cold storage.

Planting bare root plants is done in the early spring before buds open or late fall after the plant goes dormant but before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, they should not be planted too deep. The root flare, or transitional part of the plant between the roots and stem, should be level with the soil. Add a layer of mulch or compost but avoid piling mulch too high up the trunk. Water weekly, or more often under dry conditions, during the first year after planting. Protection from deer and rodents is important when planting young tender trees and shrubs. Use a tree tube or fencing to discourage browsing.

Keeping Valentines Day Flowers Fresh

Posted on February 15, 2026February 26, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Valentine’s Day is one of the biggest holidays, next to Mother’s Day, in the floral industry. Whether you’re buying fresh cut flowers, or a potted plant for someone special, helping them keep those flowers looking their best can be part of the gift you give this year.

Pink, yellow, and purple Alstroemeria flowers arranged together in a small bouquet with green leaves. — Photo by H. Zidack

Start by selecting flowers that look healthy and vibrant. You want flowers with firm petals, with buds just starting to open or have just recently opened. Avoid flowers that are releasing pollen, are discolored, or have drooping foliage. Check the stems for rigidity and make sure that plant material is clean with no indications of mold or decay. When you purchase your flowers, many florists will give you packaging to help reduce their exposure to the extreme cold as you carry them to your car. This is an important step, so don’t skip it if you can! Avoiding large temperature fluctuations will keep your flowers fresh for longer.

When you get home with your flowers find a vase that is clean and free of debris. Always wash vases with warm, soapy water in between uses to prevent the transmission of bacteria and disease from one bouquet to the next. Add fresh, tepid water. Remove all plastic, rubber bands, and other packaging from your bouquet. Cut each flower stem at a 45-degree angle using hand pruners or snips. Using scissors, or knives that aren’t sharp may crush the vascular tissue and prevent the flowers from taking up water, leading to faster decline. Remove any leaves that would sit below the water line before placing stems into the vase.

If you have a bouquet of roses, take special care when you are preparing their stems. These flowers will live longer if you cut their stems under water, using the same 45-degree angle, and place them in your vase of water as quickly as possible. This extra step ensures that air bubbles don’t work their way into the vascular tissue and will keep your roses fresh for longer. When we see roses develop a “floppy neck,” this is most often the cause. While it is possible to revive your roses from this issue, it is best to try to avoid it altogether.

There are many anecdotes out there regarding additives to provide food and antimicrobial agents to the water to help your flowers last longer. Many of these anecdotes aren’t based in research. If your bouquet comes with a flower food packet, mix it as instructed and use it in your vase. However, if you don’t have one, don’t worry about adding anything. Instead, focus on ensuring that you are giving your flowers fresh, clean water.

Decay and microbial growth are two of the biggest reasons our cut flowers pass quickly. Many of the strategies mentioned above help to mitigate this concern, but it is important to keep a watchful eye. Besides washing your vase in between use, sanitize your flower snips or pruners in between uses as well and watch the water quality in your vase, replacing it every couple of days with fresh, cool, water. Always change the water if it appears murky or cloudy in the vase.

When changing your water, make a fresh cut 1-2 inches up the stem to ensure that the vascular system is staying open and clean of any debris or bacteria. If stems are starting to get mushy, cut high enough above the decay, or consider removing the stem entirely from the arrangement. Keep your flowers in a location that is bright but avoid direct sunlight, and keep them away from drafts, or entryways where large temperature fluctuations are likely. Lastly, know when to say goodbye and dispose of any flowers that are past bloom, or showing signs of decay. You may notice that you’ll need a smaller vase as you cut your stems shorter or remove flowers as they pass. A mason jar makes for a great display for those longest lasting flowers!

There’s no doubt that fresh flowers bring vibrancy and life into our homes during these blustery, winter months. Whether you’re buying a bouquet for yourself, or for someone special this Valentine’s day, keep a close eye on them and you’ll be sure to have long lasting blooms to enjoy!

Microplastics in Garden Soils: Should Homeowners Worry?

Posted on February 7, 2026February 26, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Colorful plastic fragments scattered across dark soil. — Photo by Avishesh Neupane

If you spread compost on your garden this year, there is a good chance you added a little plastic, too. Researchers around the world are now finding microplastics – tiny plastic fragments and fibers smaller than a grain of rice – in garden soils and compost products that look perfectly normal to the naked eye. In one recent study of commercial composts, every single one of the 11 products tested contained microplastics, with cleaner, eco-labeled brands still showing lower but measurable levels.

That raises a fair question for Connecticut homeowners: Should you worry about microplastics in your yard? The short answer is don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either. Microplastics are not a crisis that should send you ripping out your raised beds, but they are a good reason to be mindful about how plastic moves through our gardens and to be choosy about what we bring in.

Where are microplastics coming from?

Microplastics in garden soil mostly come from everyday sources. Composts and organic fertilizers made from mixed municipal waste or sewage sludge can carry plastic fragments and fibers, and biosolid-based fertilizers have been identified as a major pathway for microplastics into farm and lawn soils. Plastic-coated, slow-release fertilizers can contribute microplastics as their coatings weather and break down. In yards and gardens, plant tags, synthetic twine, netting, and landscape fabric can also fragment into tiny pieces when mixed into soil or added to the compost pile. On top of that, particles from tire wear, litter, and degraded plastics elsewhere can settle out of the air or arrive with runoff.

What they mean for your yard and produce

Scientists are still figuring out the full story, but some patterns are emerging. Lab and greenhouse studies show that plastic particles can affect earthworms and microbes and, in some cases, reduce seed germination, root growth, and nutrient uptake. What this means for a typical Connecticut backyard is still being studied, and while the highest documented levels of microplastics are in intensively treated farm soils, we don’t yet have enough data to say exactly how home gardens compare. Based on what we know so far, microplastics don’t appear to be an immediate emergency in your yard, but they are a good reason to take soil seriously and to reduce plastic input wherever you can. You can’t control every particle that drifts in on the wind, but you can control much of what you deliberately put on your soil and avoid adding unnecessary plastic to a system you want to keep healthy for decades.

One of the biggest questions for homeowners is whether these particles enter food crops in significant amounts. While lab studies show that tiny plastic particles can interact with roots and potentially enter plant tissues, scientists are still working to understand how often this happens in a typical backyard and what it actually means for human health. For now, most scientists emphasize source control, i.e., reducing inputs, as the most practical step. That is something gardeners are already good at: choosing better materials, building healthy soil, and asking hard questions about what they buy.

Practical steps to reduce plastic in your garden soil

Simple shifts in what you apply to your yards can greatly reduce microplastic inputs. Be choosy about compost and soil amendments. Ask what went into bagged or bulk compost, and favor products made from yard waste, leaves, or clean food scraps over those blended with municipal solid waste or sewage sludge. Avoid fertilizers and composts listing “biosolids,” “sewage sludge,” or “municipal residuals,” which are known sources of microplastics. Rethink plastic-coated fertilizers, as their coatings break down into microplastics. Keep plastic out of your compost stream by removing plant tags, synthetic twine, and landscape fabric scraps whenever you can. Skip thin plastic mulches and cheap fabrics and use shredded leaves, wood chips, cardboard, or durable, reusable barriers. And don’t underestimate your own leaves and grass clippings; they are low in plastic, build organic matter and structure, and improve soil without adding new plastic sources. We may not be able to garden without any plastic in the 21^stcentury, but we can make sure that the soil under our feet isn’t quietly becoming a plastic landfill in slow motion.

How Connecticut is already acting on related concerns

Connecticut has not yet written microplastic standards for garden products, but the state has moved aggressively on a closely related issue. As of October 1, 2024, Connecticut banned the use or sale of any soil amendment made from biosolids or wastewater sludge that contains PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, a group of persistent “forever chemicals”), and on July 1, 2025, extended the ban to PFAS-containing biosolid fertilizers. Those laws are aimed at chemicals, not microplastics, but they target many of the same products. To read more about this law, read our article here.

A Spider Everyone Can Love

Posted on February 1, 2026February 2, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Hanging pot of a spider plant with long, arching green leaves striped with white, labeled with a small wooden plant marker. — Chlorophytum comosum, the Spider Plant (photo by M. Lisy).

Spiders are one of those creatures that humans fear. Most here in the Northeast are totally harmless, yet many times people run and occasionally hurt themselves trying to get away from them. As such, it is interesting to me that one of our most beloved plants is called “Spider Plant.” Its growth does superficially resemble a spider, but this one brings joy to its owners. In fact, it is one of the hardiest of all our houseplants.

Scientifically it is known as Chlorophytum comosum, and there is quite a bit of controversy in the scientific community over species. In the pictures accompanying this article, the differences in the leaves can be clearly seen. The great debate stems from (pun intended) differences in leaf shape. Scientists cannot decide on whether those differences represent phenotypic variation (changes in shape found within a population) or differences between species. And while it seems like this should be an easy task, look at all the differences seen in dogs, which are all the same species. While the leaves on our houseplants most likely represent different artificially selected cultivars (varieties), determining how many there are in the wild is difficult. Plants normally have some ability to change the shape of their leaves. For example, plants grown in shade tend to have larger leaves than those grown in full sun. These plants are native to South Africa, and tend to grown in forests, which could explain why such variation is seen in the wild. There were two other species listed for a while, but then those got lumped back in to C. comosum and their differences chalked up to environmental variation.

In reality, how many species there are does not really matter for us keeping these wonderful houseplants. What does matter is their forgiving nature. They grow and thrive in any typical houseplant soil. It is best to let the surface dry before watering again. They have an interesting root system that is part of the key to their success. The thick, tuberous roots store water, and that is why they can survive for much longer than other houseplants. When repotting, it is amazing how they fill the pot completely with roots. Although it sounds like this might become a problem, the Spider Plant does not mind. It responds with more leaves, and even babies.

Four close-up views of a single variegated spider plant leaf on a dark surface, showing its green edges and white center stripe from different angles. — Spider Plant varieties, clockwise from the top left: a) from my first-grade teacher - narrow leaf with thin green stripe, b) wide leaf with wide white stripe, c) all green wide leaf, d) green leaf with white edges (photos by M. Lisy).

The Spider Plant is easily propagated by planting the little plantlets that form along runners sent out by the mother plant. Simply plant these in typical houseplant soil, water well, and they will start to grow. As they do not have a fully developed root system yet, care must be taken to not let them dry out during the beginning stages. This plant is probably the most easily propagated houseplant. I still have one propagated by my first-grade teacher. It grew in the classroom when I was there, and two years later when my sister had the same teacher, it had produced babies that were sent home with each student. Despite all of life’s ups and downs, the plant is still going and thriving almost half a century later.

There are a number of interesting varieties of this plant. The leaves can be narrow, wide, or curled. The colors of the leaves are interesting as well, and can be found in any combination of leaf-types. There are green leaves with a white center stripe. Alternatively, there are green leaves with white edges. As one would expect, there are all green leaves too. Although I do not have one yet, there is a variety called ‘Hawaiian’ that has a green leaf with a yellow center. Don’t be fooled by some so-called Spider Plants that are purple – those are actually Tradescantia, or Spiderworts, which are a totally different species of plant native to the Americas. No matter which variety is chosen, with proper care Spider Plants could bring the owner enjoyment for a lifetime!

Beech Bark Disease – One More Problem For Connecticut Beech Trees

Posted on January 25, 2026February 2, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Rough, cracked beech bark covered in circular, raised scale infestations with a hand resting on the trunk for size reference. — Evidence of insect damage on beech. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

American beeches have been suffering from beech leaf disease that is widespread in both Connecticut landscapes and forests. The prognosis for this disease is currently uncertain, but research is investigating treatments and other methods for possible control. This disease is evident from dark bands appearing on the leaves, so homeowners can to some extent seek help from licensed arborists once this symptom is evident.

Meanwhile, beech bark disease is also becoming a major threat to American beech (Fagus grandifolia) in eastern North America. This disease is a result of an interaction between a scale insect and one of two Nectria fungal pathogens. When these scales are present, beech bark disease has an increased chance of infecting the tree. The scale responsible was introduced from Europe and first appeared in Nova Scotia around 1890, according to researchers. Within forty years, the fungal pathogen combined with heavy infestations of the beech scale were killing trees, although only in Eastern Canada and Maine.

The scale insect, Cryptococcus fagisuga, will attack American beech, European beech (Fagus sylvatica) as well as Chinese and Oriental beeches, F. enleriana and F. orientalis, respectively. The scale insects pierce through the thin bark of the beeches with a stylet and inject enzymes to help digest the plant material. These small wounds in the tree can now be the entry point of fungal pathogens, including the two native Nectria spp. that can cause beech bark disease.

Adults mate and females lay eggs in mid- summer. Eggs hatch from late summer until early winter and form a waxy white covering. These scale insects often go unnoticed until they develop a “woolly” appearance which is evident in the winter. The immature scales overwinter on the tree, and the next year will become adults. If you notice white woolly scale insects on beeches, especially on trunks, these are likely the beech bark scale. In two to three years, scale populations can reach high levels where the trunks may appear white. Scales do not have wings, but they can be blown by the wind to new trees or transported by birds or even humans.

Disease symptoms take several years to develop after scales appear. Anyone hiking through the forests of Connecticut has probably noticed disfigured bark caused by the Nectria pathogens responsible for beech bark disease. In severely infected trees, living tissue just beneath the outer bark is killed. Cankers appear looking like rough, raised, circular disks. Fungal fruiting bodies appear in the center of these raised circles. Sometimes there are so many red fruiting bodies of the fungus that large areas of the trunk appear red. Over time, bark may crack and split off. Trunks of weakened trees can snap in high wind events. Nectria kills areas of woody tissue, sometimes creating cankers on the tree stem and large branches which in turn weaken the tree. Infected trees can thus be susceptible to other diseases and insects.

So, this is not a happy tale, but homeowners do have some good news. Controlling the scale on any ornamental or native beeches on a property resulting in the absence of these scale insects will prevent beech bark disease. Because beech can form thick stands, thin some smaller trees out so the remaining trees will retain vigor. Make sure trees that have no scale present, and no disfigured bark are left with good space between them.

In case you may need an arborist, the Connecticut Tree Protective Association has licensed arborists that can help you assess the situation with your trees. A licensed arborist will be the best choice in any case. They will be educated in tree insect and disease problems and their solutions, if any are available. Contact the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station Forestry and Horticulture department for the latest news and control options for disease and insect problems. Hopefully, your beech trees will never have problems.

Camellias for Color, Inside and Out

Posted on January 18, 2026January 22, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

The image shows a plant with dark green leaves and vibrant red flowers with yellow stamens. The background has colorful lights. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Now that the holidays are over, the decorations are put away and scenes of dreary, wintry weather dance in our heads, one plant with flowers resembling roses that comes into bloom this time of year are camellias. These Asian natives have been cultivated for possibly 5000 years. Most of us are familiar with Camellia sinensis var. sinensis aka, tea! Black tea, white tea, green tea all come from the same plant just processed differently.

Other camellia species were noted and grown for their flowers gracing gardens of temples and nobility. Prized plants were selected and crossed and eventually made their way to England, sometime in the 1730s. These elegant and highly treasured plants soon were spread all over Europe with hybridists and propagators in Italy, France, Belgium, Holland, Portugal, Spain, Germany and the U.K. by the middle of the 19th century. More and more hybrids and cultivars were being developed with the number now well over 3,000. As their popularity grew, camellias were soon being grown in Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Societies, like the American Camellia Society sprang up and shows were held (and still are) to exhibit various forms and compete for awards.

Options for growing camellias in Connecticut depend on what part of the state you live in. Thanks to breeding efforts of Dr. William Ackerman (retired USDA plant breeder) and Dr Clifford Parks (Univ of NC botanist) varieties of camellias hardy to zone 6 (-10 F) were developed. Depending on the variety and environmental conditions, camellias can bloom from fall to spring. Many of the most popular cold hardy, fall blooming cultivars belong to the Winter Series bred by Ackerman and include plants such as ‘Polar Ice’, Winter Charm’ and ‘Winter Rose’, the latter reaching only 2 to 3 feet high and wide making it a possibility for container culture.

Dr. Parks focused on cold hardy spring bloomers including the April series (C. japonica hybrids). Many grow from 5 to 10 feet tall and can be found at some local nurseries. Look for ‘April Rose’, ‘April Blush’, ‘April Remembered’ and ‘April Tryst’.

Keep in mind that our weather has been somewhat unpredictable so those in zone 6 might want to locate plants in a semi-shaded, protected location. Camellia flowers are just exquisite, resembling roses in colors ranging from white to pink to red. Some are picoteed, some are double and some are very fragrant. The dark green foliage holds up year-round.

The image shows a close-up of a delicate flower with soft pink petals, yellow stamens, and glossy green leaves. The background is slightly blurred. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Camellias, being broad-leaved evergreen shrubs, have similar requirements to rhododendrons. They do best in an acidic, well-drained soil amended with organic matter. It is often best to group them for effect and also for some protection from the elements. Plants are slow-growing and need adequate moisture but avoid planting them in poorly drained sites. Semi to full shade is preferable as the leaves may scorch in sunny, dry areas. A fertilizer for acid-loving plants can be applied in early spring as directed on the package. Pruning is rarely needed but could be done right after flowering.

I’ve never been fortunate to live in a warm enough location to plant camellias outdoors, but several cultivars are perfect as house plants if kept in a cool spot indoors. Two available from Logee’s in Danielson are ‘High Fragrance’ with delightfully scented light pink semi-double flowers and ‘Scentuous’ with fragrant, semi-double white blossoms. They have others blooming in their greenhouse.

Growing camellias in containers is a splendid way to get winter color, often along with fragrance. According to Logee’s co-owner and horticulturist, Bryron Martin, plants require an acid soil with a pH around 4.8 to 5.8. They can be grown in a camellia/azalea potting mix. Martin advises that young plants can be pinched back for fuller growth although that will delay flowering a bit. Keep in mind that some cultivars can get up to 6 feet in height so either select those that mature at a smaller size or be sure you have space to accommodate them.

Temperature is key to induce blooms. Ideally Martin recommends nighttime temperatures no higher than 59 F during the winter and preferably 30 – 40 F so an unheated room or sun porch is a great place for camellias. If nighttime temperatures are too high, the buds will drop. An east or west exposure will provide adequate light.

Fertilize camellias in the spring when active growth begins. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants as directed. Commercial synthetic and organic camellia fertilizers are available. Some growers use a cottonseed meal/bloodmeal homemade blend. To supply adequate magnesium to plants, Martin recommends dissolving 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water and applying this mixture twice a year.

For late fall through spring blossoms, indoors or out, camellias are attractive, evocative plants that perhaps more folks might consider cultivating. Those looking for a Valentine’s Day activity might consider the Camellia Festival at Planting Fields in Oyster Bay, NY. The Lyman estate in Waltham, MA also has a camellia greenhouse that is open to the public.

Plan Early For A Great Growing Season

Posted on January 10, 2026January 13, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Seed tray with soil-filled compartments and tiny green seedlings emerging. Clear plastic lid with condensation droplets, indicating a humid environment. — Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

As you start to plan your next vegetable garden, you may reflect on the previous seasons to help you develop your seed selection, layout, and more. Gardening can already be a sustainable practice, but many want to be more intentional with reducing waste, improving efficiency, and promoting sustainability in their home. Your stages of garden planning should include considerations to ensure you are meeting these goals during the growing season.

The first way to improve your practices is to have an honest assessment of your strengths and weaknesses as a vegetable gardener. For example, through years of trial and error, I have finally admitted out loud that I am not skilled at keeping pepper seedlings warm enough to yield bountiful plants in the growing season. As a solution, I now buy my pepper plants from the garden center in the spring, while still using my setup to start other vegetables and flowers from seed. Using the garden center to help fill in gaps allows you to use that time, energy, and money for seed that has a track record of success. You might even have space to try something new!

Plan to save seed before your plants even start growing. Select seed varieties listed as “open pollinated” so that the offspring will come back true to seed in the following season. Plants that do not have this designation may not come back true to type and may lead to unfamiliar plants in the future!

Consider space as a commodity while you’re planning your garden. Think about the space that some plants require, and determine if that product is worth that space, time, and energy. If your row will yield half a dozen heads of cabbage from weeks of watering, weeding, and care, does that meet your gardening goal? Or do you have other goals in mind? Decisions like this early in the planning stages can help you make your garden more efficient, productive, and tailored to you.

Prevent waste by growing what you and your family will eat. Sometimes gardeners get caught up in the novelty. Purple cauliflower is exciting and worth the space if your family will eat the cauliflower. Avoid overplanting to keep your garden efficient and reduce waste. Does your family get sick of certain produce mid-season? That could be a clue that you're overplanting. When planning for the year ahead, ask yourself if your family has the capacity to eat or safely store whatever is harvested when it is ready. Plant yields are easily researched to help you determine how many plants you may need in your garden to meet your goals.

It can be difficult to consider cutting certain vegetables out of your garden for space or efficiency. However, this is where local agriculture can assist. Just like buying pepper starts from the garden center saves time and energy in the seedling space, buying local produce can help fill any gaps you may feel in your garden’s productivity. From a sustainability standpoint, buying local usually means less energy used in transportation, refrigeration and storage when compared to produce from outside our region.

Cost Share Agriculture (CSA) programs are an effective way to supplement your garden produce. These programs often work on a shareholder system, where purchasing a membership up front will guarantee a share of the farm’s harvest throughout the season usually on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. Connecticut has CSAs for produce, cut flowers, and even meat products. Many of them start signups well before the growing season begins, so keep an eye out! Visiting local farmers markets is another way to help supplement your garden produce, with less of a regular commitment. Some even provide forms of family entertainment, like music, during the summer.

As you plan your next garden, remember that sustainability starts with intentional choices and there is no “one size fits all” strategy. Carefully considering your strengths, weaknesses, and goals will help you promote a sustainable and efficient garden in the season to come.

Five Soil Myths That Cost Home Gardeners Money

Posted on January 4, 2026January 12, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Every spring, I see the same scene in garden centers. Carts piled high with lime, fertilizer, gypsum, compost-in-a-bag, and something in a shiny package that promises instant results. When I chat with home gardeners, I often ask: How did you decide you needed all of that? Most of the time, the answer is, “I don’t really know. It looked helpful.” As someone who works with soil tests every day, I see the other side of that story. I see the lawn with three times more phosphorus than it needs. The vegetable bed that gets lime every year, even though the pH is already high.

A lot of this comes down to a few myths that are passed down by neighbors, family, and well-meaning advice on the internet. But they quietly drain gardeners’ wallets and sometimes weaken the very plants people are trying to help. Here are five of the most common myths, and what to do instead.

Myth 1: If my plants look okay, I don’t need a soil test.

Plants will try their best in less-than-ideal conditions. By the time plants show clear distress, the problem is often advanced. pH has drifted far from the ideal range. One nutrient is so high that it is starting to interfere with others. In the lab, I see plenty of samples from landscapes that “seem fine,” where the numbers tell a very different story. I also see the opposite. People are convinced their soil is terrible, but the test says they are in good shape and only need minor tweaks.

This myth costs money because skipping the test means guessing. Guessing leads to buying products you do not need and missing the changes that would help the most. A better approach is to test your soil every few years, or sooner if you are starting something new. A good test provides clear recommendations matched to what you are growing.

Myth 2: More fertilizer equals better plants.

People worry they are not fertilizing enough, so “a little extra” feels like good insurance. Extra nutrients do not automatically translate to extra health. Instead, excess fertilizer can burn roots and foliage, push lush but weak growth that attracts pests and disease, and wash into streams and lakes where it fuels algae blooms, harming the environment.

This myth costs money as you are paying for nutrients your plants cannot use. You may also pay later for disease control or to repair damaged turf and stressed garden beds. A better approach is to view soil test recommendations as a ceiling, not a suggestion to exceed.

Myth 3: You should lime your soil every year.

Many people learned that you “always lime the lawn in the fall.” As many native New England soils are naturally acidic, lime can be important in the right amount and in the right places. But I also see plenty of tests where pH is already in the upper 6s or above 7, and the lawn is still getting lime out of habit.

When pH gets too high for the plants, iron and other micronutrients become less available. Acid-loving plants like blueberries and rhododendrons struggle. This myth costs money twice. First, you pay for lime, then you may pay to fix the problems caused by a high pH. A better approach is to test soil pH and apply only when it is recommended.

Myth 4: Adding sand will fix heavy clay soil.

Clay dries slowly in spring, sticks to tools when wet, and can feel like a brick when dry. A bag of sand looks like an easy fix, but mixing a little sand into a lot of clay does not make loam. It often makes something closer to concrete. What truly helps clay is organic matter. Compost and well-rotted manure can loosen heavy soils, improve drainage, and support healthier soil structure and biology.

This myth costs money because you buy sand, haul it around, and see little improvement. For most home gardens, adding organic matter works much better.

Myth 5: Bagged topsoil or garden soil is always an upgrade.

Big bags and bulk deliveries of “topsoil,” “garden soil,” or “planting mix” can feel like a shortcut to perfect beds. Sometimes they are excellent, but at other times they are basically subsoil with a nicer name, which can cause problems like high salt levels, unbalanced nutrients, or a pH far from the target.

This myth costs money because poor-quality material means paying twice. Once to bring it in, and again to correct it. A better approach is to ask suppliers what is in the mix and how it is produced. And whenever possible, improve the soil you already have.

The Common Thread

The common thread in all five myths above is that we reach for products before we understand the soil. If you start with a test, you can skip lime when your pH is already in range, cut back on fertilizer where nutrients are high, and put your time and money into the changes that will actually move the needle. That is better for your plants, your budget, and the rivers and lakes downstream. Your garden does not need every product on the shelf. It just needs the right help at the right time.

 The UConn Home & Garden Education office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Cranberries, A Symbol of Holiday Cheer

Posted on December 27, 2025January 12, 2026 by Zidack, Heather

Workers harvesting cranberries in a flooded bog using a conveyor system. — Keith Weller, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org

Each holiday season, a wave of bright red cranberries appears on Instagram feeds, Pinterest boards, and tables across the nation in the form of sauces, desserts, drinks, and decorations. Beyond their seasonal fame however, these tart red berries play a major role in U.S. agriculture and culture.

Let’s start with some numbers. The USDA estimated the 2024 U.S. cranberry harvest at about 8.24 million barrels, roughly 824 million pounds of fruit. Here in the U.S., the cranberry king is Wisconsin, producing nearly 4.9 million barrels, around 60% of the national total. In second place is the historical cranberry producer, Massachusetts, with approximately 2.2 million barrels produced in 2024. The top agricultural crop in the state, Massachusetts’ cranberry crop alone is valued at $73.4 million, supporting over 6,400 jobs and generating $1.7 billion in annual economic activity. Cranberries are so important for Massachusetts, in fact, that they are the state fruit and cranberry red is the state color.

Cranberries, known scientifically as Vaccinium macrocarpon, are native to North America and are a close relative of blueberries. Compared with blueberries however, cranberry plants tend to be smaller, low to the ground and vine-like. The vines require acidic soil (pH 4.0–5.5), a reasonably cool growing season, and abundant fresh water. If these conditions can be emulated at home, cranberries can make an attractive edible ground cover. They perform well when planted alongside plants such as conifers and rhododendron, provided they are given plenty of water and appropriate fertilizer for acid-loving plants.

For commercial production, cranberries thrive in uniquely engineered wetland environments - bogs built atop beds of sand, peat, gravel, and clay. The annual commercial production cycle of cranberries begins with winter flooding, which forms protective ice that shields the vines and prepares the surface for sanding, which stimulates spring growth. As temperatures rise in spring, bogs are drained, and bees pollinate the blossoms. Summer is devoted to irrigation and monitoring, followed by harvest from mid-September through early November, before the cycle repeats with winter flooding and freezing.

Cranberry growers will typically harvest their crop one of two ways: through wet harvesting or dry harvesting. Wet harvesting describes the process where bogs are flooded to allow berries to float to the surface before being netted and loaded into equipment for cleaning and processing. This harvesting technique is the most popular, but requires proper equipment and careful planning. Dry harvesting, the process of using mechanical pickers that comb berries into conveyers, is an approach primarily used for fresh markets. More fruit are left on the vine with this approach, but the collected berries for fresh market can be sold at high prices and dry harvesting allows growers without the means to flood and drain their bogs on a schedule to grow cranberries.

Cranberries are deeply embedded in holiday traditions, thanks to their seasonal harvest, festive red color, and historical use. For more than 12,000 years, they’ve been utilized by Indigenous communities, especially the Wampanoag People, for food, medicine, dye, and winter preservation. The cranberries collected by hand in the bogs of southern Massachusetts were both eaten fresh and dried for shelf stability, then eaten as-is later in the winter or mixed with dried meats and fat to make pemmican, a hearty winter staple.

European settlers in New England quickly adopted the appreciation of cranberries, integrating them into winter celebrations. By the 18th and 19th centuries, cranberry sauces, relishes, and baked goods were staples of Christmas feasts. Their vibrant red hue also made them popular in holiday crafts such as cranberry-popcorn garlands or wreath embellishments.

U.S. cranberries reach peak consumption during the holidays. Though 95% of cranberries are processed into juice, sauce, or dried fruit, fresh cranberries remain a holiday staple, used in everything from stuffing and pies to cocktails and décor. Around 400 million pounds are eaten annually, with an estimated 20% consumed during Thanksgiving week, about 80 million pounds. With per-capita annual consumption averaging 2.3 pounds, mostly in juice or processed form, cranberries rank second among berries consumed in the U.S. after strawberries!

Cranberries exemplify a convergence of historical tradition and the advances of modern agricultural practices. They support regional economies, sustain traditional farming techniques, and bring seasonal joy to millions. As you gather with loved ones this holiday season, enjoy an extra serving of these tart crimson berries and remember that food isn’t just sustenance, it’s heritage, celebration, and connection.

Home and Garden Education Center