Newspaper Articles

Spring Showers Bring Flooded Gardens

Posted on May 31, 2025June 2, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Amelia Martin, UConn Plant Science Graduate Student

You may have noticed the heavy rains and chilly temperatures last week’s nor ’easter brought to Connecticut. Maybe you were one of many who checked their back window to see their gardens had flooded and their plants are looking worse for the wear. If this sounds familiar and you are curious what garden flooding means for your plants and want to know how to protect them- you found the right article!

A flooded garden is not a unique problem, especially during periods of heavy rainfall, but there are some factors that may contribute to the severity of flooding. Having minimal or poor drainage can amplify the problem, especially if planting in garden boxes with closed bottoms. Soil compaction can contribute to flooding if you are planting directly in the ground. Compacted soil can happen if there has been too much tillage, if wheels or machinery have been over the area, or even from excess foot traffic. Lastly, the layout and landscaping of a yard can contribute to flooding as well. If you placed your garden at the bottom of a hill or there are minimal drainage angles surrounding your garden, water may be pooling up faster than it can drain.

To prevent flooding, check your gutters and make sure they are free from debris and directed to a drain or storm barrel. Put down gravel and mulch to help prevent surface flooding. Avoid cutting your grass too short to maintain strong roots which help to absorb water. Maintain healthy soil to allow for the best water absorption. Dig out a shallow drainage channel if you have the space for it. Consider switching to raised beds with drainage rather than in-ground gardens in easily flooded areas. Try adding native plants to your garden. Native plants have deep roots which helps them absorb excess water and prevent runoff. While handling these issues would be preventative measures, let’s talk about what to do if your garden has already flooded.

Assess the drainage situation and take note of where the water is pooling the most. If flooding is unusual in your garden- there may be something blocking the normal drainage route, which may be a quick fix. If not, knowing where water is likely to pool may help in future garden planning, or help you determine where to make improvements.

Stay off your garden beds. If you step on your soil while it is saturated, it will compact it, ruining the soil’s tilth. Instead, if you need to access your garden beds consider putting a wooden board down to walk on to distribute your weight better.

Re-fertilize your plants. Heavy rain can wash away nutrients out of the soil through a process called leaching. Check the forecast to make sure no more extreme weather is immediately approaching before fertilizing- or you may have to do it again.

Add supports to your plants. The wind and rain may have led to plants falling over. Add in some additional supports to get them upright again and give them a better chance for the next time heavy rain comes.

While having a flooded garden may be a bummer, there are some gardening activities that are actually easier to do in saturated soil! Once the rain stops and the ground is still wet, use this time to weed. The soft ground will make weeds especially easy to pull up- just try not to step on the garden beds. After a rain or a flood, re-mulching is always a good idea. The rain might wash away some previously placed mulch, use this as an opportunity to locate any spots barren of mulch and in need of a re-fill. After a couple days when the soil is soft but not sodden, the ground will be the perfect consistency to dig and put stakes.

Lastly, check for any young plants that didn’t survive the water or any seeds that haven’t come up. Take this as an opportunity to plant new seeds, as seeds do better in already moist soil where they have less chance of being displaced when watered.

At the end of the day, while having a flooded garden may not be the best for your plants, it is not the end of the world. There are a handful of preventative measures that can be taken ranging from backyard renovations to quick fixes- it is about finding what works best for you and your garden.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

Why Are Seeds Sprouting in My Tomato?!

Posted on May 24, 2025June 2, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

A tomato sliced in half with seedlings sprouting up — Seed germination within an overripe tomato. Photo credit: J. Copes.

UConn Home and Garden Education Center alum Carol Quish wrote a short blog post about vivipary in 2014 that, over a decade later, is still one of our most-read pieces. Why are folks still interested to read this post after so much time? Because seeing seed vivipary in a tomato you’re about to eat is just so darn weird. To better discuss and understand vivipary however, we should start with a little refresher on seed biology.

Reflecting back on 4^th period science class with Mr. So-and-so, you’ll recall that producing a seed is both a distribution and reproduction strategy for plants. Generally, a seed is composed of a developing young plant called an embryo and a nutritious tissue to support the embryo called an endosperm, both of which are encapsulated within a hard seed coat. When an embryo is triggered to begin growing and breaks through the seed coat, many people consider this the stage of germination.

A seed will typically be in a state of dormancy while within the fruit and for a period after fruit harvest and dispersal. This strategy of undergoing dormancy is usually advantageous to the seed so it does not germinate and begin growing under adverse conditions, such as the beginning of winter or before being eaten by a hungry critter. A delicate combination of environmental cues and plant hormones maintain – and break – seed dormancy. When temperature, light, moisture, and other environmental conditions are right for that seed, hormones like gibberellin (GA) and abscisic acid (ABA) will shift in balance and germination will occur. Dormancy is typically maintained when levels of ABA are higher than levels of GA, and is broken when levels of GA are higher than levels of ABA.

When germination occurs while the seed is still within or attached to tissue of the parent plant, this is considered vivipary. Appropriately, the word “vivipary” is Latin for “live birth”. Vivipary is an essential strategy for some plants, such as mangrove trees, to increase likelihood of reaching a safe place to grow. For most plants however, vivipary is considered a physiological disorder or otherwise undesirable outcome as it decreases likelihood for successful establishment and growth, post-germination. Some highly-domesticated plants, like tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, wheat, and corn, are more prone to vivipary than others.

Seed germination within an overripe tomato. Photo credit: J. Copes.

While there isn’t uniform consensus on what combination of factors trigger vivipary, promoting high ABA levels in seeds while they’re still in the parent plant will certainly lower the odds. While there is nothing that can be done to change the genetics of the tomato on your counter, you can take steps to minimize the environmental triggers that would decrease ABA levels. Minimizing free moisture, preventing excessively cool temperatures, and drying, consuming, or processing the seed before the fruit bearing it become overripe are important strategies.

For tomatoes specifically, be sure to harvest them before they are fully ripe! Overripe tomatoes are much more likely to experience vivipary. For the same reason, whether buying or growing your own vine-ripened tomatoes, it’s important to consume them quickly. Furthermore, be sure to store your tomatoes at room temperature and not in the fridge. Not only will they be more likely to have a mealy texture when you eat them, but low temperatures may also increase the likelihood of vivipary.

The next time you happen to take a bite of a tomato filled with seeds that have experienced vivipary, don’t fret! The taste and texture may not be what you were expecting, but they’re perfectly harmless. That said, a better destination for a viviparous tomato may be your garden bed rather than your caprese salad! Seeds that have germinated within the fruit will still grow and eventually produce fruit like any other tomato seedling.

If you have questions about growing tomatoes, or any other gardening topic, call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center (toll-free) at (877) 486-6271. You can also email us at ladybug@uconn.edu, visit our website, www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or visit your local UConn Cooperative Extension center.

Set Your Lawn Free

Posted on May 18, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dandelions growing uncontrolled in a lawn. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

For many, the sight of a lush green lawn brings about the desire to cast off one’s shoes and stroll through the sun-warmed grass feeling the soft verdant carpet below. Lawns, or at least grassy areas, are a ubiquitous part of almost every home outside city limits. While admittedly that perfect lawn is a source of curb appeal and homeowner pride, in recent years considerable attention has been given to the ecological and environmental costs of maintaining turf that is the envy of the neighborhood.

Managed turf grass areas, including golf courses and park areas cover about 8 percent (400 square miles) of the land area in Connecticut. That perfect lawn typically requires supplemental irrigation, fertilizer, regular mowing and often pesticide applications. Water could be better used for drinking, other domestic uses and just left in natural systems. Excess nutrients as well as pesticides can be found in ground and surface waters causing both human health as well as ecosystem problems. While some are turning to electric mowers and blowers, gas-powered equipment dependent more on fossil fuels, are most prevalent (at least in my neighborhood) contributing to climate change.

So what is a residential lawn owner to do? The authors of Redesigning the American Lawn were among the first to coin the term “freedom lawn.” So, what is a freedom lawn? Basically, anything that is green is allowed to grow. That would include dandelions, self-heal, violets, bluets, buttercups, clover and wild strawberries to list a few of those so-called “low growing broad-leaved plants”. By my definition, weeds are plants growing in the wrong place, so the plants are weeds no longer when accepted as part of the lawn.

One of the greatest reasons for encouraging a variety of plants to inhabit turf areas is that the world is facing a critical loss of biodiversity. There are significant declines in beneficial insect, native plant and bird populations, along with other living organisms. While that lush green lawn offers aesthetic pleasure to some, it does little to provide habitat or food for creatures other than problematic ones like grubs or chinch bugs.

A mixed grass- herbaceous plant lawn will contain flowering plants for pollinators and other beneficials. Various plant species have varying root systems. Some have deep taproots that break up compacted soil and bring up minerals. Others have more fibrous root systems that are continuously turning over added organic matter to the soil. A variety of plants along with their root exudates and associated microbes can help aggregate the soil, improving air and water passage. Porosity plus water holding capacity can be increased as well as lessening the potential for topsoil erosion. A healthy plant community usually portends a healthy soil.

Leaning into a freedom or pollinator lawn does not mean digging up one’s entire lawn and reseeding it although that is one option. Two seed mixes that I have seen advertised are Flawn and Fleur de Lawn. Both contain a mixture of fescues, microclover and the latter, some other flowering species. Probably greatest success with these seed mixes would be achieved starting with bare soil.

One can start encouraging biodiversity and pollinator plants by discontinuing the use of herbicides and allowing some flowering plants to move in. Often, they can be mowed before they set seed. When reseeding bare spots, use more drought tolerant fescues or native grasses like little bluestem to reduce the need for irrigation, once established. Higher mowing heights up to 3 or 4 inches will encourage deeper rooting of all plants making them more resilient during periods of drought.

Learn about the benefits of some of the low-growing broad-leaved plants that want to call your lawn home. Clovers add nitrogen to the soil reducing the amount of fertilizer necessary. Violets are host plants for the endangered regal fritillary. Dandelion greens are a great source of vitamins A and C. It is true that many of these plants are not native, but neither are the cool season turf grasses normally found in lawns.

In many yards, keeping part of it in lawn is essential for children’s play and sports activities, pet areas and entertaining. Take a tour of your yard and determine where a lawn makes sense and where it might be more appropriate for woody plants, ornamental beds or even a vegetable garden. Steep slopes or perpetually shaded areas may be best for groundcovers. Areas where water frequently collects after heavy rains might be more suitable for a rain garden.

However small, every effort to encourage biodiversity, provide for our beneficials and improve soil health is a step in the right direction. Rethinking your lawn areas might be a good place to start.

For information on lawns or any other gardening topic, call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center (toll-free) at (877) 486-6271 or email us at ladybug@uconn.edu or visit our website, www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu.

Spring Landscape and Garden Issues in 2025

Posted on May 10, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center This spring has been a dramatic one as ornamental trees and shrubs are putting on quite a colorful floral display. Many deciduous ornamentals including redbuds, forsythia, crabapples, fruit trees, quince azaleas and many others were not adversely affected by last summer’s drought and the cold, windy winter and frozen soils that followed. A lesser noticed but significant drama is the negative effect these same environmental conditions had on ornamental and native evergreens.

Rhododendrons and ‘Green Giant’ arborvitae seemed to suffer the most damage followed by cherry laurels and hollies. Last year’s drought conditions that extended into late fall combined with very windy winter conditions and frozen soils were tough for some evergreens. Winter desiccation injury on broadleaved and needled evergreens causes foliage browning when plants cannot take up the water needed to keep foliage healthy. Damage to many rhododendrons and some azaleas could be seen during the winter and is still evident this spring. Buds may provide new leaves by June if branches are still alive.

In contrast, 'Green Giant’ arborvitaes suddenly showed symptoms after warm weather began this spring. This was evident especially in trees on windy sites. Needles are brown or off color and time will tell if they are able to recover. If branch tips are flexible and show new buds, growth may resume. Prune any dead branches that show no signs of recovery.

Large tent like structures with little caterpillars inside them in the crotch of a tree branch. — Eastern Tent Caterpillars in a Black Cherry Tree. Photo by Pamm Cooper

Eastern tent caterpillars have hatched from overwintering egg masses on native black cherries. Silken nests are evident located in crotches of these trees. Caterpillars feed outside the tents at night and hide in them during the day. There is only one generation, and feeding is generally finished by late June. Trees have time to leaf out again to remain healthy during the growing season. Birds like cuckoos and vireos will rip tents apart to feed on the caterpillars.

If you have Oriental lilies, be alert for the lily leaf beetle. This bright red insect can severely defoliate these lilies. Adults overwinter in soil close to the plants they were feeding on the previous season. They appear as soon as lilies begin new growth above the ground. Leaf undersides should be checked for eggs and larvae and crushed when found. Leaves can be treated if needed with a product that larvae will ingest as they feed on the treated leaves. Never spray flowers with any insect control product and always follow directions as written on the product label.

Snowball aphid feeding damage is noticeable on the new leaves of European cranberry bush and snowball viburnums. As the aphids feed on the new leaves and twigs, leaves curl and twigs twist in response to aphid feeding on the sap. Aphids can be found by uncurling the leaves. Treatment is difficult as they are not out in the open where contact control products can reach them. Feeding should end within two months of egg hatch. These aphids overwinter as eggs laid on the branches of host viburnums.

Viburnum leaf beetles, Pyrrhalta viburni, are another significant pest of ornamental and native viburnums. They’re active soon after viburnums leaf out. Damage will be seen as larval populations grow and they skeletonize leaves. Some viburnums may suffer complete defoliation. This pest prefers arrowwood, European cranberry bush or American cranberry bush viburnums. Try switching to resistant varieties such as V. plicatum and Korean spicebush viburnum V. calesii if leaf beetles are a chronic pest.

If anyone has small St John’s wort shrubs or certain weigela cultivars that seem to be dead, wait and see if new growth resumes as it gets warmer and sunnier. The smaller St. Johns’ wort shrubs die back in fall, leaving brown stems with withered fruit. Prune these back almost to the ground as basal growth appears. Some weigela cultivars are just slowly getting started, while others are already full of leaves. Do not give up these plants but wait and see what happens in May.

As always, our UConn Home and Garden Education Center office staff welcomes any questions gardeners may have concerning landscape and garden plants problems. Across the New England region, people are having much the same problems as we are having in Connecticut from the winter weather, but we can hope that plant recovery be swift and complete. Enjoy the growing season and stay alert- scout for pests and other problems before they get out of hand.

A Gardener’s Guide to Planting by Hardiness Zones

Posted on May 3, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Map of Connecticut USDA Hardiness zones as of 2023. Most zones in the state are either zone 6 or zone 7. — USDA Hardiness Zone Map for Connecticut, 2023

If you are wondering whether that shrub, flower, or tree that you saw in a magazine or catalog will grow well in your garden, using a hardiness zone map is your best bet to ensure success.

A hardiness zone map is a tool that divides a geographical area into distinct zones based on average annual minimum winter temperatures. These maps are used by gardeners and farmers around the world to determine which plants are most likely to thrive in a particular region. Each country has its own hardiness map that correlates to their climate. In the United States, the USDA publishes a hardiness zone map, which covers all fifty states and includes Puerto Rico, Guam, American Samoa, and the U.S. Virgin Islands. It uses climate data collected over many years from weather stations throughout a specific region. Then the data is analyzed to determine average minimum winter temperatures from different areas.

The concept of hardiness zones was first introduced in 1927 by Dr. Alfred Rehder. Rehder worked at Harvard's Arnold Arboretum as a botanical taxonomist. He wanted to address the challenges gardeners and growers faced in selecting plants suited to their local climate. Prior to Rehder’s map, there was no standardized system for categorizing plants based on their ability to survive winter temperatures. His hand-drawn map featured eight hardiness zones and was based on the lowest winter temperatures recorded in various regions across the country. Rehder aimed to provide a practical tool for gardeners and growers. His map made it easier for them to choose plants with the best chances of survival in their region, ultimately contributing to more successful gardens and agricultural endeavors. Rehder’s innovative approach recognized the importance of adapting agricultural practices to local climates. In the 1960s, the USDA adopted and adapted Rehder's concept, creating the first official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.

Since its initial release, the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map has been updated several times to reflect changes in climate and the availability of more accurate data. The latest update of the USDA hardiness map was released in November 2023, jointly developed by the USDA's Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Oregon State University's PRISM Climate Group. This update incorporates data from 1991 to 2020, covering a broader range of weather stations than previous versions. One of the key findings from this update is that the contiguous United States has become approximately 2.5 degrees Fahrenheit warmer on average compared to the previous map. As a result, around half of the country has shifted into the next warmer half zone, while the other half has remained unchanged. The updated map still consists of 13 zones, but now offers more detailed information on temperature ranges within each zone, including 10-degree zones and 5-degree half zones. Connecticut has two hardiness zones each of which is divided into half zones; (6a,6b); (7a,7b), to better reflect the temperatures in the state over the past few decades.

The importance of hardiness zones lies in their ability to help gardeners and farmers choose plants that will thrive in their specific region. By selecting plants appropriate for their zone, growers can reduce the risk of frost damage and increase their chances of a successful growing season. However, due to unexpected temperatures outside the average range, there is no guarantee that a plant won’t suffer but it does reduce the risk of plant damage. In addition to gardeners, researchers use hardiness zones to study the spread of insects and exotic weeds, while the USDA Risk Management Agency uses the map to help determine crop insurance rates for commercial growers.

While the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is an invaluable tool, it is important to note that it is not the only factor gardeners and farmers should consider when selecting plants. Other factors, such as soil type, precipitation, and local microclimates, can also impact plant growth and survival. Gardeners should use the map as a starting point and supplement it with local knowledge and research to make the best plant selections for their specific needs.

The development of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is a testament to the importance of adapting agricultural practices to local climates. Since its inception nearly a century ago, the map has evolved to reflect changes in climate and incorporate more accurate data. Today, the map remains an essential resource for gardeners and researchers alike, helping them to better understand and navigate the complexities of plant growth in the diverse regions of the United States. Knowing a plant’s hardiness zone when selecting that shrub, tree or flower will help you grow the garden of your dreams.

Celebrate Arbor Day!

Posted on April 26, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Redbud tree in flower with tiny pink buds. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Arbor Day is celebrated in Connecticut on April 25th. Since it is a day traditionally set aside for the planting of trees, perhaps you might consider adding one to your home landscape. If you haven’t the need for another arboreal specimen, then plan on giving your existing trees a little TLC.

Trees have a lot to offer. They provide us with cool shade on hot summer days, brighten our spring season with lovely blossoms, add color to the fall landscape and winter interest throughout cold, dreary days. Trees provide food, nesting sites and shelter for many animals, especially birds. They help reduce noise pollution, trap particulate air pollutants, and can alter the microclimate surrounding them.

Most importantly, trees supply plenty of oxygen for us to breathe. Each year, an acre of trees produces enough oxygen to keep 18 people alive. They also sequester carbon dioxide. Trees convert atmospheric carbon dioxide into plant matter as they photosynthesize. This has important consequences worldwide. As more and more of our forested land is being cleared, less carbon dioxide can be stored in trees and more is available to increase the atmospheric carbon dioxide levels which, in turn, can contribute to global warming.

While we can’t stop global deforestation, we can make a difference in our own backyards by planting more trees or making sure that the trees already present receive the conditions they need to thrive.

When selecting a tree for your landscape, do consider factors like its ultimate height and spread, susceptibility to insect and disease problems, flowering, fruiting and fall foliage potential, rate of growth and site requirements. Review gardening books, consult with nurserymen and maybe visit an arboretum to view mature specimens.

Trees are purchased either as dormant stock through mail order sources, containerized, or balled-and-burlapped (B & B). Dormant trees generally arrive in the spring or fall and should be soaked for a couple of hours and planted immediately. If you can’t get them in the ground right away, they can be stored in a cool place for a few days out of direct sunlight. Make sure them are kept moist.

Containerized stock can be planted throughout the growing season although cooler spring or fall is best. Hard to transplant species are best purchased this way as there is less disruption to their root system. If potbound, make several vertical cuts about one-quarter inch deep around the root ball before planting.

Purchasing B & B trees is fine for younger specimens, but often larger trees have a good portion of their roots removed in this process. This can lead to poor survival. For greatest success, choose small to medium sized trees.

A tree planted at the proper depth with the crown slightly exposed. The hole is dug twice the width as the original root ball. — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Holes for planting only need be as deep as the root system. The key is to make them at least 2 feet wider than the root ball. Especially in heavy or compacted soils, be sure to

loosen as much soil around the planting area as possible so roots can grow freely. The majority of roots are found in the upper 3 feet of soil.

Amendments such as peat moss or fertilizer are not necessary to add to the backfill. However, if the soil pH or phosphorus levels are low, ground limestone and bonemeal can be mixed into the backfill.

Add water to the hole before planting and let it drain. Next, position the root ball. Remove plastic mesh and cords. Burlap can be cut away as much as possible. Fill in the hole about half way. Gently firm the soil around the root ball. Don’t stomp on it or you will compact the soil. Water thoroughly and when the water drains, finish filling the hole. Make a well around the tree with soil and water once more. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch keeping it away from the trunk. Newly planted trees need a thorough soaking each week throughout the first growing season either from natural precipitation or from you.

If you have questions about trees or any other gardening topic, call the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center (toll-free) at (877) 486-6271 or email us at ladybug@uconn.edu or visit our website, www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu.

Unbeanlievable: Here’s a Vegetable That Produces All Season Long

Posted on April 19, 2025May 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Abigayle Ward, Soil Science Graduate Student

Beans of the 'Dragon Tongue' variety are. yellow with purple streaks. — Beans like this Dragon Tongue variety can add interest to your vegetable garden! Photo by H. Zidack

Full of fiber, packed with protein, and great to grow, beans have been a staple in the diet of humans for thousands of years. Native edible beans can be found on every continent but Antarctica, although many of the beans we eat today are domesticated varieties that originated in South America, Europe, and Asia. Fabaceae, the bean family, is one of the largest families of plants in the world, with over 20,000 species described. As legumes, beans can convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into nitrogen useable by other plants, making them very useful to integrate into crop rotation for savvy home gardeners who want to save a little money on nitrogen fertilizer. In fact, excessive nitrogen fertilization of legumes can inhibit the natural nitrogen-fixation process, so use only a low-strength nitrogen fertilizer if absolutely necessary. Legumes can even be used as cover crops in the winter to prevent soil erosion and provide a boost to your soil health all winter long. You can direct-seed beans and still get production all season, meaning Connecticut gardeners can get beans in the ground now.

Fava beans (Vicia faba) are grown all around the world, very adaptable to many climates, and are generally very easy to grow. They are cold-tolerant and can be grown all the way down to USDA Hardiness Zone 3. In Connecticut, for the best results, you should plant fava bean seeds in the early spring in a place that gets full sun and doesn’t stay too moist. They will take about three months to begin producing beans but will continue producing throughout the season and into the fall. Some frost-resistant varieties will even survive temperatures below freezing, and since they self-pollinate, bees are not necessary for the production of pods. Fava beans do not require trellises, but some larger varieties may benefit from cages or trellises for additional support. In the summer, pollinators love the flowers, and understandably so – bean flowers not only signal the coming produce but are also eye-catching. Many varieties have white and dark red flowers. Some varieties have pink flowers. Bean pods can be harvested and eaten whole if they are young and tender. It is important to note that some people may have an adverse reaction to consuming fava beans, a metabolic disorder called favism. Favism causes anemia in response to the inhalation of the plant’s pollen or consumption of the beans. Be sure to check with your doctor before trying these beans for the first time.

For “summery” beans that are native to central and south America, you can try planting kidney, cranberry, appaloosa, or navy beans, all in the genus Phaseolus. Perhaps the delight of beans in the Phaseolus genera is their diversity in appearance. Appaloosa beans are especially whimsical, with white, brown, and reddish mottling. They strongly resemble the horse for which they are named. Some of these species behave like pole beans, meaning they will need to be trellised, while others behave like bushes, meaning they should not need to be trellised. The seed packet should indicate whether they will need to be trellised. As with fava beans, be sure to water Phaseolus when the soil seems dry, taking care to avoid watering the leaves. Excessive leaf wetness may increase the likelihood for fungi to grow and cause disease.

No matter what bean you try growing, pests and disease are ever-present. Aphids, bean beetles, and European corn borer are all possible bean pests. Beans are susceptible to diseases like powdery mildew, Fusarium wilt, and bean rust. Selecting disease and pest-resistant varieties will reduce the risk of yield loss. Like most legumes, the ideal soil pH for growing beans is 6-7. Since native Connecticut soil typically has a pH closer to 5.5, be sure to send a soil sample to the UConn Soil and Nutrient Analysis Lab to test the pH (and nutrients!) of your soil before planting to ensure you get accurate recommendations for any amendments your garden may need to allow beans to thrive!

Rocky Start for Rhododendron’s This Spring

Posted on April 12, 2025April 14, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Two Rhododendron shrubs. Shrub in the foreground showing leaf curl while shrub behind it looks healthy and is not displaying any signs of stress. — Rhododendrons are showing a varying degree of stress responses to winter conditions in the landscape. Photo by Heather Zidack

Rhododendrons are looking rough this spring. You’ve probably seen it in your yard or in your neighborhood. The UConn Home & Garden Education Center has been seeing an increase in the number of calls regarding injury or damage to rhododendrons. In most cases, we are finding these reports to be winter injury. This is an environmental type of damage, caused by a perfect storm of conditions that we have seen throughout the state. So, let’s take a closer look into why this is happening.

Plants lose water through their leaves. During active growth, that water is constantly replenished from the roots. When the temperatures drop and the ground freezes in the winter, available water becomes limited. Plants have adapted to this in many ways. Dormancy is triggered by multiple factors, but water conservation is certainly one of those. Deciduous trees shed their leaves completely. Evergreens have developed various leaf adaptations to help with survival, too.

As broadleaf evergreens, rhododendrons have developed a waxy coat on their leaves to help prevent water loss. They also have a physiological mechanism to help defend themselves further. Just as you’d clasp your hands together on a cold winter day to shield them from the elements, rhododendron leaves curl themselves into cigar-shaped cylinders. The leading theory is that this happens to protect the leaves from further water loss. This natural defense mechanism has grabbed our attention this spring, since our weather patterns have lent a hand in amplifying a natural phenomenon.

At the end of last summer, CT started to see a moderate drought in much of the state. These conditions have persisted through this spring. Water availability was limited as plants went into the winter and remained limited throughout the season. Add in frozen soil and harsh winter winds and the environmental stress increased even more. When water is unavailable to the roots – through either freezing or drought conditions, plants lose their ability to return water to the living tissues. This drying out, referred to as desiccation, leads to winter injury or winter kill depending on the severity of damage. While we are finally seeing rain, these plants need time to recover and may not be ready to unfurl just yet.

Many have noted that some plants are faring better than others even within the same bed. This is also normal to some extent. It can be easy to forget that plants are living things in our landscapes. There is going to be variance in their ability to withstand environmental pressures and their recovery rates.

If you are seeing this in your rhododendrons, be patient this spring and monitor over the next month or so. With an increase of rain in the forecast, the extra hydration should help plants recover - or at least push out new growth. These shrubs will shed any leaves that are damaged beyond repair on their own. Do not prune or fertilize shrubs until the end of May to avoid further injury. If we go a week without rain, consider watering your shrubs to help speed up recovery – but only water if the soil feels dry to the touch! If by mid-late May you are seeing absolutely no improvement, we start to consider other factors that may contribute to the plant’s health. For now, they just need a little more time.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

What’s That Smell? CT Dairy Farmers Hard at Work

Posted on April 5, 2025April 10, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Abigayle Ward – Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture

Two dairy cows at their feeding trough — Connecticut dairy cows enjoying some feed and the sunshine. Photo by Nora Doonan, UConn Soil Science Graduate Student

As temperatures warm up, perhaps you feel inclined to open windows to let some fresh air into your home or to feel the breeze on your morning commute. But then it hits you: The pungent aroma of freshly-spread manure. The few weeks that the smell persists serve as a reminder of the agricultural roots of Connecticut. Dairy farming began during the American colonial period in the 1600s, and milk remains one of the most important agricultural products in Connecticut. Some dairy farms have been in continuous operation for over 10 generations.

A single cow can produce around 100 pounds – about 18 gallons – of manure per day. Connecticut is home to nearly 19,000 dairy cows, so you do the math – that’s a lot of manure!

Typically, farmers spread manure on their crop fields twice per year: Once in the early spring, and again after corn harvest, usually in late fall. Manure is rich in nutrients, which helps grow the crops farmers use to keep happy cows throughout the year. Manure is also an excellent source of organic matter, which enriches the soil with carbon, provides nutrients to support healthy soil microbiomes, and gives our sandy Connecticut soils structure, which is essential for happy crops and high yields.

Many Connecticut dairy farmers are also on the forefront of research and development. In Coventry, Hytone Farm uses a brand-new anaerobic digester to harness the power of microorganisms to break down thousands of gallons of manure and food waste every day. Biogasses, such as methane, are collected and can be used to generate electricity. The solids, called “digestates”, can be used as fertilizer, animal bedding, or even as building materials. Freund’s Farm in East Canaan has been turning digestates into compostable, nutrient-rich CowPots, which can be buried directly in your garden and will biodegrade over time. Running since 1997, Freund’s is home to one of the first anaerobic digesters in New England. Collins Powder Hill Farm – home of the Collins Creamery – makes and sells compost from leaves and manure. All these practices help these local farms, and many others, increase carbon sequestration, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, and yes, reduce the smell of manure.

For home gardeners who wish to harness the power of manure, applying a commercially produced manure compost is the safest route. While applying raw manure is safe for crops that will not be consumed by humans, composted manure is recommended for application in gardens where human food is being grown. The composting process heats up the manure to temperatures that kill pathogens, such as E. coli, which could make you sick. Furthermore, composted manure should be odorless – getting your garden many of the benefits without the smell!

While the smell may be a mild inconvenience now, it is a sign that our dairy farmers are hard at work, continuing a tradition older than our country and serving our communities. You can support our state’s dairy farmers by purchasing locally-produced dairy products, adding some composted manure to your garden, and – of course – waving to the tractor drivers!

Potted Plant Paradise

Posted on March 24, 2025March 28, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty
UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Finally, spring is here! It will soon be time to repot all our houseplants as soon as the cold weather completely stops. Many of the plants purchased over the winter, as well as the ones sitting around for years should be repotted. This does not imply that the pot size needs to be increased. Many times, the plant can be left in the same size pot. If it is rootbound, and the plant is known to get large, it’s good to go one pot size up. Increasing the pot size when it is not needed just leads to root rot as the soil will not dry out properly. Alternatively, if the plant is getting big, another option is to divide it into numerous smaller plants, each requiring a smaller pot.

Different varieties of Sansevieria in separate pots — Various Sansevieria species waiting for spring to be repotted – the three in front need bigger pots, and the rear one needs to be split. It’s best to repot during the growing season in order to avoid root rot. (photo by M. Lisy).

Many people think that if the pot size does not need to increase, then there is no need to repot. This could not be further from the truth. The plant is in a fixed medium. The soilless mix will quickly run out of nutrients, even with regular fertilization. Also, salts tend to build up in the soil, which harms the plant over the long run. This is a natural consequence of plants in pots. Soil can also get compacted too much over time and interfere with proper aeration of the root zone. Tease away the loose soil from the root ball being careful not to break the roots. Add the new soil and watch the plant grow!

This is also a great time to change out the pot. Most of our houseplants come in plastic pots. These are usually not very attractive. Plastic pots are good for plants that like to be kept moist. I prefer a clay pot in most cases. This allows the soil to breathe and makes it harder to over water. What I do not care for or recommend are the automatic watering pots. I have found that these have a tendency to keep the soil too moist, and do not allow for a drying out period between waterings. Stores use them as they require no maintenance from their staff, and the plants cannot wither and die due to lack of water. Long term, these types of pots lead to root rot.

Different plants have different soil needs. Cacti and succulents like it dry and fast draining. Orchids like it airy and chunky. Most houseplants prefer a mix that holds moisture but drains. Try and match the plant to the right soil type. There are great commercial mixes available for purchase, and prices on these have come down some lately. Take some time to research the proper soil type for each plant. Many of the plants take a typical houseplant mix, but some require additional drainage. In this case, add perlite and/or sand. To enable to soil to hold moisture for a longer period of time, add some vermiculite.

In all honesty, almost any soil can work for almost any plant provided that the watering is controlled. Most of the time, houseplants get overwatered which leads to fungal problems. People want to water at some magical interval, like every Friday, for example. In reality, the weather greatly influences how quickly or slowly our plants dry out. Sometimes they need water sooner, and sometimes they do not need water at all. Let the plants determine the watering schedule. If all these suggestions are followed, our plants will be living in a potted paradise, as will we!