Newspaper Articles

Rocky Start for Rhododendron’s This Spring

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Two Rhododendron shrubs. Shrub in the foreground showing leaf curl while shrub behind it looks healthy and is not displaying any signs of stress.
Rhododendrons are showing a varying degree of stress responses to winter conditions in the landscape. Photo by Heather Zidack

Rhododendrons are looking rough this spring. You’ve probably seen it in your yard or in your neighborhood. The UConn Home & Garden Education Center has been seeing an increase in the number of calls regarding injury or damage to rhododendrons.  In most cases, we are finding these reports to be winter injury. This is an environmental type of damage, caused by a perfect storm of conditions that we have seen throughout the state. So, let’s take a closer look into why this is happening.

Plants lose water through their leaves. During active growth, that water is constantly replenished from the roots. When the temperatures drop and the ground freezes in the winter, available water becomes limited. Plants have adapted to this in many ways. Dormancy is triggered by multiple factors, but water conservation is certainly one of those. Deciduous trees shed their leaves completely. Evergreens have developed various leaf adaptations to help with survival, too.

As broadleaf evergreens, rhododendrons have developed a waxy coat on their leaves to help prevent water loss. They also have a physiological mechanism to help defend themselves further. Just as you’d clasp your hands together on a cold winter day to shield them from the elements, rhododendron leaves curl themselves into cigar-shaped cylinders. The leading theory is that this happens to protect the leaves from further water loss. This natural defense mechanism has grabbed our attention this spring, since our weather patterns have lent a hand in amplifying a natural phenomenon.

At the end of last summer, CT started to see a moderate drought in much of the state. These conditions have persisted through this spring. Water availability was limited as plants went into the winter and remained limited throughout the season. Add in frozen soil and harsh winter winds and the environmental stress increased even more. When water is unavailable to the roots – through either freezing or drought conditions, plants lose their ability to return water to the living tissues. This drying out, referred to as desiccation, leads to winter injury or winter kill depending on the severity of damage. While we are finally seeing rain, these plants need time to recover and may not be ready to unfurl just yet.

Many have noted that some plants are faring better than others even within the same bed. This is also normal to some extent. It can be easy to forget that plants are living things in our landscapes. There is going to be variance in their ability to withstand environmental pressures and their recovery rates.

If you are seeing this in your rhododendrons, be patient this spring and monitor over the next month or so. With an increase of rain in the forecast, the extra hydration should help plants recover - or at least push out new growth. These shrubs will shed any leaves that are damaged beyond repair on their own. Do not prune or fertilize shrubs until the end of May to avoid further injury.  If we go a week without rain, consider watering your shrubs to help speed up recovery – but only water if the soil feels dry to the touch! If by mid-late May you are seeing absolutely no improvement, we start to consider other factors that may contribute to the plant’s health. For now, they just need a little more time.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Apr. 12 2025

What’s That Smell? CT Dairy Farmers Hard at Work

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By Abigayle Ward – Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture

Two dairy cows at their feeding trough
Connecticut dairy cows enjoying some feed and the sunshine. Photo by Nora Doonan, UConn Soil Science Graduate Student

As temperatures warm up, perhaps you feel inclined to open windows to let some fresh air into your home or to feel the breeze on your morning commute. But then it hits you: The pungent aroma of freshly-spread manure. The few weeks that the smell persists serve as a reminder of the agricultural roots of Connecticut. Dairy farming began during the American colonial period in the 1600s, and milk remains one of the most important agricultural products in Connecticut. Some dairy farms have been in continuous operation for over 10 generations.  

A single cow can produce around 100 pounds – about 18 gallons – of manure per day. Connecticut is home to nearly 19,000 dairy cows, so you do the math – that’s a lot of manure!  

Typically, farmers spread manure on their crop fields twice per year: Once in the early spring, and again after corn harvest, usually in late fall. Manure is rich in nutrients, which helps grow the crops farmers use to keep happy cows throughout the year. Manure is also an excellent source of organic matter, which enriches the soil with carbon, provides nutrients to support healthy soil microbiomes, and gives our sandy Connecticut soils structure, which is essential for happy crops and high yields. 

Many Connecticut dairy farmers are also on the forefront of research and development. In Coventry, Hytone Farm uses a brand-new anaerobic digester to harness the power of microorganisms to break down thousands of gallons of manure and food waste every day. Biogasses, such as methane, are collected and can be used to generate electricity. The solids, called “digestates”, can be used as fertilizer, animal bedding, or even as building materials. Freund’s Farm in East Canaan has been turning digestates into compostable, nutrient-rich CowPots, which can be buried directly in your garden and will biodegrade over time. Running since 1997, Freund’s is home to one of the first anaerobic digesters in New England. Collins Powder Hill Farm – home of the Collins Creamery – makes and sells compost from leaves and manure. All these practices help these local farms, and many others, increase carbon sequestration, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, and yes, reduce the smell of manure. 

For home gardeners who wish to harness the power of manure, applying a commercially produced manure compost is the safest route. While applying raw manure is safe for crops that will not be consumed by humans, composted manure is recommended for application in gardens where human food is being grown. The composting process heats up the manure to temperatures that kill pathogens, such as E. coli, which could make you sick. Furthermore, composted manure should be odorless – getting your garden many of the benefits without the smell! 

While the smell may be a mild inconvenience now, it is a sign that our dairy farmers are hard at work, continuing a tradition older than our country and serving our communities. You can support our state’s dairy farmers by purchasing locally-produced dairy products, adding some composted manure to your garden, and – of course – waving to the tractor drivers!  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Apr. 5 2025

Potted Plant Paradise

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By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty
UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Finally, spring is here! It will soon be time to repot all our houseplants as soon as the cold weather completely stops.  Many of the plants purchased over the winter, as well as the ones sitting around for years should be repotted.  This does not imply that the pot size needs to be increased.  Many times, the plant can be left in the same size pot.  If it is rootbound, and the plant is known to get large, it’s good to go one pot size up.  Increasing the pot size when it is not needed just leads to root rot as the soil will not dry out properly.  Alternatively, if the plant is getting big, another option is to divide it into numerous smaller plants, each requiring a smaller pot.

Different varieties of Sansevieria in separate pots
Various Sansevieria species waiting for spring to be repotted – the three in front need bigger pots, and the rear one needs to be split. It’s best to repot during the growing season in order to avoid root rot. (photo by M. Lisy).

Many people think that if the pot size does not need to increase, then there is no need to repot.  This could not be further from the truth.  The plant is in a fixed medium.  The soilless mix will quickly run out of nutrients, even with regular fertilization.  Also, salts tend to build up in the soil, which harms the plant over the long run.  This is a natural consequence of plants in pots.  Soil can also get compacted too much over time and interfere with proper aeration of the root zone.  Tease away the loose soil from the root ball being careful not to break the roots.  Add the new soil and watch the plant grow!

This is also a great time to change out the pot.  Most of our houseplants come in plastic pots.  These are usually not very attractive.  Plastic pots are good for plants that like to be kept moist.  I prefer a clay pot in most cases.  This allows the soil to breathe and makes it harder to over water.  What I do not care for or recommend are the automatic watering pots.  I have found that these have a tendency to keep the soil too moist, and do not allow for a drying out period between waterings.  Stores use them as they require no maintenance from their staff, and the plants cannot wither and die due to lack of water.  Long term, these types of pots lead to root rot.

Different plants have different soil needs.  Cacti and succulents like it dry and fast draining.  Orchids like it airy and chunky.  Most houseplants prefer a mix that holds moisture but drains.  Try and match the plant to the right soil type.  There are great commercial mixes available for purchase, and prices on these have come down some lately.  Take some time to research the proper soil type for each plant.  Many of the plants take a typical houseplant mix, but some require additional drainage.  In this case, add perlite and/or sand.  To enable to soil to hold moisture for a longer period of time, add some vermiculite.

In all honesty, almost any soil can work for almost any plant provided that the watering is controlled.  Most of the time, houseplants get overwatered which leads to fungal problems.  People want to water at some magical interval, like every Friday, for example.  In reality, the weather greatly influences how quickly or slowly our plants dry out.  Sometimes they need water sooner, and sometimes they do not need water at all.  Let the plants determine the watering schedule.  If all these suggestions are followed, our plants will be living in a potted paradise, as will we!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

Ready! Get Set! Spring Into Action!

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center 

Climbing temperatures and longer days signal springtime! Time to pull out the rakes and wheelbarrow from the shed and get out in the yard. Take a stroll through the lawn areas and gardens and note what tidying up needs to be done. Pick up fallen twigs and rake up areas where leaves accumulated over the winter.  

Lawn torn up by snow plow damage.
Lawns can be damaged Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

 While we did not have a severe winter, there was some necessary snow and ice removal around driveways and walks. Often the lawn next to these areas has gotten ripped up or compacted and is in need of repair. Rake up the damaged sections and add topsoil if needed to level out the area. Then scratch up the surface and put down some grass seed. Usually at this time of year, little irrigation is necessary but be prepared to lightly water if dry, sunny conditions prevail. Another option is to line your driveway with tough groundcovers or pollinator friendly flowers although this can be challenging if drivers routinely miscalculate their parking abilities.  

 Speaking of lawns, check to see that your lawnmower and weedwhacker are in working order. Wait until closer to the beginning of April when lawns actually start to green up before applying limestone or fertilizer. They can be purchased now, however, so you’re ready to go when grass starts growing and the ground is dry enough to walk on. Crabgrass controls can be put down about the time the forsythia is in full bloom.  

Next take a good look at your woody plants – your trees and shrubs. Some of us experienced pretty icy conditions over the winter that caused a fair amount of breakage. Remove any cracked or damage branches. Cut back to a bud, stem or the ground depending on where the damage occurred. Now before the plants leaf out is a great time to prune. After removing dead and damaged stems, cut out any crossing or rubbing ones, those that are too crowded, and then prune for desired height and shape. Keep in mind the plant’s mature size as you prune. Better to select a plant that fits its space than to continue hacking it to the size you desire. This is also a perfect time to prune fruit trees such as apples and pears, and also blueberry bushes.  

By now your vegetable garden should be all planned out and seeds purchased, or at least ordered, as well as onion sets or plants, seed potatoes and sweet potato slips. Tomato and pepper seeds can be started in soilless media indoors. I prefer to plant 2 seeds of tomatoes in each cell of a 4 pack and 2 seeds of peppers in each cell of a 6 pack, because the peppers take longer to germinate and grow slower than tomatoes. Seeds are set about a quarter inch deep in the moistened media and kept about 70 degrees F under fluorescent lights. After the seeds germinate and the seedlings grow their first set of true leaves, the weaker of the two plants, if both seeds germinate, is removed.  

Purple Morpo pansies with large purple flower heads in a pot.
Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Cool season vegetable seeds should be collected or purchased for early plantings. These include peas, radishes, lettuce, spring turnips, spinach, chard and many Asian greens. A few warm days might have us chomping at the bit but wait until the soil temperature reaches 45 degrees F. How would you determine soil temperature? Using a soil thermometer, insert it into the soil where you want to plant your seeds about 1 to 2 inches deep and take a reading in the morning and then again around 2 pm. Shade the thermometer if in direct sun. Average the two readings and plant when there are a few days of at least 45 degrees F and the weather forecast is favorable.  

Many of us are not cleaning up perennial gardens in the fall so that beneficial insects can overwinter in debris. You can start going in now and cutting down stems and tidying up. Fall bloomers like asters and mums can be divided. Limestone can be added if necessary but wait to fertilize when new growth appears.  

 The warmer weather puts a smile on our faces and we can share the joy of spring by planting pansies with their abundant blossoms and cheery faces. One can never have enough pansies, or at least, I feel that way. Get out and welcome spring, spruce up your lawn and gardens and be thankful that winter is over! 

 For questions on these or other garden chores or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 22 2025

Have You Tested Your Well Lately?

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By Alec Janis M.S. – Connecticut Institute of Water Resources

Cross-section of how water moves underground.
Cross-section of how water moves underground. Photo created by Alec Janis, M.S.

In 1718, in what is now Franklin, Connecticut, a well was dug as an all-purpose public source of water for the community. In about 1755, the people began to complain about the water’s quality, saying it stained clothes and remained tainted until 1794, when an earthquake shook the town. After the earthquake, it was found that the well had been restored to its original quality. Although this is a more extreme example, the quality of your well water can change at any time, which means that just because it was safe to drink when it was installed, that may not be the case today.

The Connecticut Department of Public Health recommends that all residents test their wells every two to five years. If you’re struggling to remember the last time you tested your well, you’re not alone. We estimate that 96% of Connecticut well owners do not follow these guidelines.

So how does your well work? When it rains, some water is absorbed by the plants in the landscape, but they can’t uptake all that water. After water travels past the plant roots, it continues until it reaches an area where all the spaces in the soil have been saturated. This is known as the water table. Think of the soil like a sponge; as you add water, the water fills all the holes and space inside until it’s completely soaked through. If you have a shallow well, your water is being pulled directly from this water table.

If you have a drilled well, your water comes from much further underground. Below the saturated layer of soil, there’s solid stone called bedrock. Throughout the bedrock, there are small cracks, called fractures, where water moves. You can see an example of this when passing a rocky cliff face along the highway that seems to be randomly covered in ice.  The ice you see has formed from water that has made its way through soil on top of the ledge, into the fractures in the stone and eventually drips out of small cracks where it freezes in the cold air. A drilled well is a bored hole in the bedrock, intersecting many fractures. Instead of following the original path, water now pours out of the fractures and pools in the newly formed hole.

Now that we know how water travels, let’s consider everything the water is interacting with on its way down. Consider the animal waste on your lawn from a pet or a passing deer, the fertilizers or pesticides you may use on your lawn, or even the de-icing salts you put on walkways during the winter. Precipitation, in the form of rain or snow, pulls everything underground. However, not all of this will end up directly in your well water. The dirt acts as a filter stopping some contaminants while letting others through. Depending on the chemical make-up, certain compounds will remain in the soil while others will break down and continue to travel through.

When this water reaches the bedrock, it will continue to pick up and lose different chemicals. This process will slowly erode these cracks, causing the paths to change over time. As the stone erodes, metals and minerals will be picked up with the traveling water and occasionally end up in your drilled well.

This is why it is important to routinely test your well water quality every few years. As water erodes fractures in the bedrock, new cracks and pathways form, changing the contaminants that are entering your well. We currently don’t have a simple method to track how groundwater is moving, so testing is the best way to understand what’s happening in your well.

To get your well tested visit a local or lab participate in the UConn Extension well testing program. We are hosting a collection event at the UConn Extension - Middlesex County Extension Center (1066 Saybrook Rd, Haddam, CT 06438) on May 3rd from 10:00am – 1:00pm. These tests test for coliform bacteria, lead, arsenic, uranium, nitrates, sodium, chloride, fluoride, pH, hardness, sulfate, turbidity, iron, and manganese. These tests, normally valued at $350, are being offered for a reduced cost of $200.

We will mail a sample kit to participants who have signed up in advance of the collection event. Sample kits will also be available at the collection event on May 3rd as well as at the Old Saybrook Environmental Fair (Old Saybrook Middle School, 60 Sheffield St, Old Saybrook, CT 06475) on April 26th.

Participants can sign up online at https://s.uconn.edu/haddam-well-testing. The deadline to be mailed a sample kit is April 25th.

If participants cannot make the day above, we offer a walk in service year-round where participants can bring their water sample to the UConn main campus Monday through Thursday from 8 am – 5 pm. For more information on how to sign up, visit https://ctiwr.uconn.edu/walk-in/.

We support UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For home gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. For more information about the CT Institute of Water Resources and Well testing services, visit https://ctiwr.uconn.edu/

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 15 2025 and printed in The Chronicle in the same week

Narcissi and the Reflections of Spring

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By Abigayle Ward – Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture

Daffodils in bloom
Photo by: Rebekah D. Wallace, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org

According to an ancient Greek myth, all those who had fallen in love with the young man Narcissus were met with contemptuous rejection. On a hunting trip, Narcissus stopped to drink from a pond and became enamored with his own reflection. Cursed to never experience a requited love of his own, he stared at himself until his death, and his place was taken by a flower.

While it remains disputed whether the character was named after the flower or vice versa, the enduring significance of the narcissus as a harbinger of spring is uncontested. With a native range spanning throughout most of Europe, northern Africa, and parts of Asia, legends describing this culturally significant early-season perennial have been told since antiquity. In China, daffodils are carefully grown to bloom for the Lunar New Year, which began this year on January 29th. Their Mandarin name, shuixianhua, literally translates as “immortal water flower”, attesting to their resilience throughout the early season cold.

The Royal Horticultural Society in the United Kingdom describes 13 different types of narcissi based primarily on morphological appearance and when they bloom. Some have long trumpets, while others have multiple flowers to one stem. Others have small trumpets and many petals, called ‘double daffodils’, while others still have few petals dwarfed by large, bowl-shaped trumpets. Daffodils also come in many interesting color combinations – while most of us are familiar with the classic yellow petals and orange trumpets, they also come with white petals, white trumpets, and some even have shades of salmon pink. As one of the earliest-blooming flowers in your garden, they add a lovely splash of color to an otherwise brown landscape. In beds, they go well with red or pink tulips. By themselves, daffodils make good borders, particularly if different color combinations are intermixed to create visual intrigue.

While it is too late now to plant daffodil bulbs with the guarantee of blooms, they can still be safely planted. If you have some bulbs and want to give them a try, be sure to plant them in a sunny spot with well-drained soil at least 6 to 8 inches below the surface. They may sprout, but not form a flower. Do not fear: Daffodils are quite resilient and will likely flower the next spring. If you want to wait, the ideal time to plant daffodils for blooms in the spring is November.

If you find an already-blooming daffodil at your local garden center, it can be planted in the ground any time after the blooms themselves have faded. Both the bulbs and the foliage are frost-hardy well into sub-zero temperatures, making them well-suited for growing in the unpredictable winter weather of Connecticut.

After the flowers have bloomed, you may wish to cut the flower stems and bring them indoors for some bright colors. If you leave the flowers on the plants, be sure to deadhead them as soon as the flowers begin to wilt. If daffodils are allowed to go to seed, the plant will divert precious nutrients and energy away from the bulb. Once the plant has finished flowering, only the foliage remains. While it is tempting to remove the foliage, the leaves are collecting energy and creating food for the bulb via photosynthesis. If the leaves are removed too early, the daffodil may not flower the following spring. Some gardeners like to tie up the leaves in rubber bands or braid them to keep them out of the way, although it is generally best practice to leave them alone until they turn brown by themselves. Damage to the leaves could introduce pathogens or attract pests, which could impact the ability of the plant to flower next year.

With proper care, daffodil bulbs can multiply, ensuring many blooms come back year after year. As we move forward into the season of renewal for ourselves and our gardens, consider planting some daffodils to add a bit of sunshine to your home landscape.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For questions about spring bulbs like daffodils or other gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 8 2025

Yes, You Can Grow Orchids!

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home and Garden Education Center

Some favorite booths at the CT Flower and Garden Show this past weekend were the ones filled with orchids. Orchids are becoming more popular as houseplants and many folks are finding that they can be grown successfully in the home without elaborate care or special equipment. If you’re in a traveling mind, check out the Orchid Exhibit at the New England Botanic Garden in Boylston, MA that runs through March 23, 2025.

Purple orchids in flower
Phalenopsis orchids at the CT Flower & Garden Show in 2025. Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Orchids are grouped into two general divisions. Epiphytic orchids naturally grow on trees in the tropics. Trees are used for support. Water and nutrients come from rain, bird droppings and organic debris collecting around the roots. Terrestrial types will grow in a highly organic soil. While epiphytic orchids may tolerate or even enjoy a dry, dormant period, terrestrial species, in general, need to be kept moist throughout the year.

Two styles of growth are exhibited by orchids. Monopodial orchids grow in an upright direction from the central stem on which aerial roots and flowers develop. Sympodial orchids generate new growth from the base of the plant. As the new stems mature and bloom, younger shoots once again are produced and the cycle is continued.

The orchid family is organized into several genera (each called a genus) which may contain from one to many species. Much hybridization has occurred and the names can be baffling to a novice. For instance, hybrids resulting as a cross between Cattleya mossiae and C. warscewiczii are labeled Cattleya x Enid, the ‘x’ indicating the plant is a hybrid.

Some of the easiest orchids for beginners are phalenopsis, paphiopedilum, epidendron, oncidium and cattleya. Not every member of each genera can be successfully grown in the home so be sure to check with your source. Almost all colors are available and blossom size may range from very tiny to several inches in diameter.

The basic requirements for orchids are good ventilation, 40 to 50 percent humidity, light, proper watering and a well-draining potting mix usually composed of fir bark. Often osmunda fiber, tree fern and/or perlite are added to the fir bark.

Specific cultural requirements vary as to the species. Some tolerate higher light levels than others. Many varieties of the orchids listed above prefer 55 to 60 degree F nights and 65 to 68 degree F days although cattlyas, epidendrons and oncidiums like it about 10 degrees warmer. If growing on a windowsill, put the varieties that like it cooler closer to the window. Make sure leaves do not touch the glass.

Ways to increase humidity include grouping plants together, placing on gravel lined trays filled with water, frequent misting or use of a humidifier. Plants should not sit in water and the foliage, if misted, should be dry by evening. Don’t keep plants too close together as good air circulation helps prevent diseases.

Watering is perhaps the trickiest part of growing orchids. There is not accurate rule for when to water because it depends on the size of the container, the type of growing medium, temperature and light conditions. Obviously, plants will have to be watered more often in hot, dry weather and less during cool, damp periods. When watering, soak the potting material thoroughly. Do not water again until the medium feels dry to the touch. If in doubt, do not water.

Since fir bark contains virtually no nutrients, plants have to be fertilized on a regular basis. Some recommend fertilizing at every third watering with a half strength orchid fertilizer. It is best to place plants in the sink and water until it drains from the pot, not putting the plant back in its saucer until it is thoroughly drained. Special orchid pots are available with enlarged drainage holes. Fertilizers should just be applied when plants are actively growing.

Orchids are a plant you have to experiment with but once you’ve experienced success, you will find that as a hobby, they can be quite contagious. Those seeking more orchid information might want to check out the Connecticut Orchid Society (www.ctorchids.org) or the American Orchid Society (www.aos.org).

If you have questions on growing orchids or any home or garden topic, contact the UConn Home and Garden Education Center, toll-free, at 877.486.6271 or visit us at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or call your local Cooperative Extension Center.

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Mar. 1, 2025

The Challenges of Boxwood: Pests, Diseases, and Alternatives

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By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Boxwood, a classic choice for formal gardens and hedges, has faced increasing threats in recent years. As gardeners grapple with these challenges, it is crucial to understand the issues at hand and explore alternative plants for our landscapes.

Boxwood Blight is an aggressive fungal disease that affects various Boxwood species and causes rapid defoliation and potential plant death. First identified in the United Kingdom in the mid-1990s, this disease has since spread across North America. Early symptoms include stem cankers, sunken lesions, and eventual dieback. To mitigate the risk of Boxwood Blight, choose resistant cultivars, practice good garden hygiene, and monitor your plants for early signs of infection.

The Box Tree Moth is an invasive pest native to Asia that feeds on Boxwood plants. Since its arrival in North America, this moth has wreaked havoc on Boxwood populations, leading to defoliation and plant stress. Symptoms of infestation include see-through plants, "stick shrubs," and stem cankers. Regular monitoring and integrated pest management strategies are essential for controlling this destructive insect.

As Boxwood plants continue to face challenges from pests and diseases, it is wise to consider alternative options for our gardens. Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) is a versatile, broadleaf evergreen that can be shaped into hedges or topiaries. Its small, glossy leaves provide a neat appearance, and its adaptability to various soil types and sun exposure makes it a low-maintenance choice.

Row of Gem Box Ilex shrubs for sale
Gem Box Ilex is one of many fantastic substitutes for Boxwood shrubs. Photo by H. Zidack

Euonymus japonicus (Japanese Euonymus), an evergreen shrub with small, glossy leaves and tolerance for a range of growing conditions is another possible substitution. Its compact growth habit and easy maintenance make it an excellent choice for hedges or screens.

Ilex glabra (Inkberry), is a slow-growing evergreen native to North America, featuring dark green leaves and red berries in the fall. Its low, spreading habit makes it ideal for low hedges or mass plantings.

Privets (Ligustrum), are fast-growing, low-maintenance evergreen shrubs with small, glossy leaves. They can be used for hedges, screens, or as stand-alone specimens. However, keep in mind that three cultivars, border privet, (Ligustrum obtusifolium Sieb. & Zucc), California privet, (Ligustrum ovalifolium Hassk.) and European privet (Ligustrum vulgare L.) are listed on UConn’s invasive plant database.  If you decide to plant privets, look for seedless cultivars such as Golden Ticket privet (Ligustrum x vicaryi "KCLX1") at your local nursery.  

The Boxwood Blight and Box Tree Moth present ongoing challenges for gardeners and landscapers. By understanding these threats and adopting appropriate management strategies, we can mitigate the damage they cause. Additionally, exploring alternative plants can help create more resilient and sustainable gardens in the face of these challenges. With careful planning and thoughtful plant selection, our landscapes can continue to thrive in the face of adversity.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For questions about your boxwoods or other gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 22, 2025
It was been updated from its original publishing on Feb. 27, 2025

Shine a Light – But Which One?

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By Emily Leahy, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Seedlings under LED lights
Seedlings growing under programmable LED lights. Photo by H. Zidack

The dead of winter brings a longing to spend time outside in the garden again. While this may not be possible yet, it is easy to craft your own growing space indoors. The elements of the outdoors that allow plants to thrive – light, warmth, and water – can all be brought indoors with a little creativity and the right resources.

Some steps remain unchanged. Still, refer to the plant’s label for guidance on choosing a proper container, water and nutrient needs, as well as temperature preferences. Guidelines on how much light the plant should receive can also be found on the label – but how can this be applied indoors?

One of the more challenging aspects to simulate, indoors, is an adequate amount of light. When outside, plants rely on the sun for light needed to carry out photosynthesis. This chemical reaction produces sugars which are used as energy in processes essential for the growth and maintenance of a healthy plant. While plants can still receive sunlight indoors through rays shining through windows, this often cannot act as an equitable substitute for unobstructed sunlight outdoors. This is where supplemental light sources in the form of grow lights come into play. Grow lights are specially designed with the purpose of emitting a wider spectrum of light wavelengths to enable photosynthesis. But with so many options available, how can you choose which is the best option?

Generally, there are two types of grow lights – bulbs and fixtures. Bulbs can be placed into existing light fixtures like lamps or overhead lighting. However, this can be unsuitable as it is difficult to control the distance from the plant and angle at which the light shines. Grow light fixtures are separate systems which can provide multiple plants with light simultaneously, offering a more even distribution. With proper setup, they can be positioned at an advantageous angle to provide plants with their preferred amount of light.

Next comes the question of which kind of light is appropriate for your plant – incandescent, fluorescent, or LED? It is important to determine beforehand the level of light which your plant prefers – high, medium, or low. Incandescent lights, while costing the least, are also the least efficient. 90% of their energy is released in the form of heat, while only 10% is light itself. While this makes them good contenders for low-light plants, they also require caution as they can provide plants with an overwhelming amount of heat.

Fluorescent lights are well-suited for plants requiring low to medium light. They emit the full spectrum of light, essential for promoting growth as they mimic natural sunlight. Most often they are seen as strips or tubes of light that can be affixed above plants, but they can also be purchased in bulb form. LED lights emit the full spectrum of light as well, while simultaneously emitting less heat than other bulb types. Yielding a high overall efficiency, LEDs can be customized with different colors/wavelengths of light to provide certain advantages for some plants. For example, blue lights promote vegetative growth, while red lights do the same for flowering and fruit growth.

Grow light setup
Different stages of growth may need different spectrums of light. Photo by H. Zidack

After choosing the most suitable kind of grow light for your plant, there are a variety of other tips helpful to consider. The type of plant not only determines the proper type of light to use, but also how much light should be provided. Supplying light 24 hours a day is not ideal as it can overwhelm the plant – remember the objective is to mimic the light conditions of the outdoors. Therefore, plants will require some hours of darkness each day.

Seedlings generally prefer 14-16 hours of light per day, as they necessitate the most encouragement for growth. 12 hours of light is suitable for herbs and other greens, while houseplants fall between the range of 6-12 hours per day – be sure to refer to the product label for any specifications on light preferences.

In terms of setup, lights should be angled to ensure a direct stream of emittance onto the plant in order to receive its full benefits. It is best to affix lights about 12 inches from the plant, although adjustments can be made as you see fit. Some indoor gardening systems are available that can be customized to fit specifications according to the type of plant being grown. It is also important to purchase lights that are rated to withstand humidity and moisture if they are being kept in a greenhouse-like environment.

Be sure to always refer to your plant’s label for its specific preferences for light and other growing conditions. With the help of grow lights, you can wait out the winter by bringing a little bit of the outdoors, indoors!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center contributes to the Cooperative Extension mission of the University of Connecticut by connecting the public with research and resources provided by the University. For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center - (877) 486-6271, visit our website at https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension center https://cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations/.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 15, 2025

Soil and Plant Tests for Managing Nitrogen Fertilization

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By Haiying Tao, Ph.D., UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Nitrogen (N) is often the most limiting nutrient in growing plants. When deficient, plant yields and quality are reduced. However, excessive nitrogen applications could cause concerns in water quality and greenhouse gas emissions. Managing nitrogen is a very difficult task for farmers and gardeners because nitrogen exists in many different forms in the soil and can be lost from soil via many pathways. In addition, different forms nitrogen can be transformed from one form to another. The weather, especially rainfall and temperature, can impact these processes. Heavy rainfall can lead to significant nitrogen leaching and runoff.

Fortunately, there are strategies that can be used to help us manage nitrogen for optimum plant yield and quality, while minimizing nitrogen loss. Most home gardeners benefit from the standard nutrient analysis when testing their soil. Recommendations and questions regarding additional sampling, interpretation, and fertilization recommendations for specific tests and crops mentioned below should be referred to the University of Connecticut Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory.

Predict nitrogen requirement and preplant soil tests

Testing soil for nitrate and ammonium forms of nitrogen as well as soil organic matter (SOM) can help you predict soil nitrogen supply during the growing season. SOM can provide substantial amounts of nitrogen via mineralization, which is a process where soil microorganisms convert organic forms of nitrogen to the plant available forms of ammonium and nitrates.

Typically, for every 1% of SOM in the top 6 inches of soil, approximately 20 to 40 lbs of nitrogen per acre can become available via the mineralization process. If you can predict the nitrogen requirement of the desired crop, the amount of nitrogen that needs to be applied can then be estimated using the differences between demand and supply. Note that for SOM testing, 6-inch soil sampling depth is typically recommended.

Pre-sidedress Soil Nitrogen Test (PSNT)

The Pre-sidedress soil nitrate-nitrogen test (PSNT) can be used for corn and vegetable crops such as tomatoes, peppers, fall planted cabbage, etc. Soil sampling and testing for PSNT takes place in June or early July, typically when corn plants are 6 inches to 1 foot tall. At this time of the year, the heavy rainfall season has passed, soil is at its optimum moisture and temperature condition for mineralization, and crops, like corn, begin to increase nitrogen uptake exponentially.

Soil samples should be collected at 1 foot depth. The samples should be packed with icepacks during shipping to the soil testing labs. Typically, if PSNT is higher than 25 ppm, nitrogen fertilization is unlikely needed. Crops that have shallower root systems may require a slightly higher PSNT level because they do not have extensive root systems to take up nutrients from a large volume of soil.

End-of-Season Cornstalk Nitrate Test (CSNT) for Corn

Corn Stalks
Remove the leaves and sheaths and place the samples in a paper bag. (Haiying Tao).

The end-of-season corn stalk nitrate-N test (CSNT) is a post-harvest plant tissue test for corn that can evaluate nitrogen uptake and availability during the crop’s growing season. This test is appropriate for corn produced under both rain-fed and irrigated conditions. Although the test is too late to guide current crop fertilization, the post-harvest evaluation can estimate N sufficiency levels during the corn growing season and provide a valuable tool for fine-tuning future nitrogen management strategies.

Approximately one week prior to or after harvest, 15 random cornstalk samples for every 10 to 15 acres should be collected to form a composited sample. Each cornstalk sample should be collected by cutting an 8-inch section between 6 and 14 inches above the ground. Remove the leaves and sheaths, place the samples in a paper bag, and immediately send the samples to a laboratory for CSNT testing. Avoid taking samples from severely damaged plants. Typically, a CSNT higher than 2000 ppm suggests excessive nitrogen was available during the crop growing season.

We recommend that farmers regularly conduct CSNT to evaluate N sufficiency levels in their cornfields and fine-tune their N management strategies in subsequent growing seasons. Farmers should begin their fine-tuning by reducing fertilizer N applications in cornfields where CSNT results were in the excessive category or even eliminating fertilizer N applications if the CSNT is exceptionally high in the heavily manure fields. Notice that the CSNT could be high in drought years, this is another reason that it is best to test CSNT every year to accurately assess the nitrogen management practices.

If you have further questions about the different types of soil tests available to farmers and home gardeners, please contact the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory at 860-486-6270 or at https://soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu/. The UConn Home & Garden Education Center contributes to the Cooperative Extension mission of the University of Connecticut by connecting the public with research and resources provided by the University. For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center (877) 486-6271, visit our website at https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension center https://cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations/.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 8, 2025