Newspaper Articles

All-America Selection Winners for 2025

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by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Each winter the All-America Selection winners are announced. This non-profit organization has established trial gardens throughout the United States and even as far north as Canada. New varieties, species or strains of annuals, vegetables and bedding plants are grown and judged on their performance. Those chosen as winners are outstanding plants and deserve a trial in your gardens as well.

This year’s national winners include 3 vegetables and 5 flowers. ‘Green Lightening’ is a very attractive, striped pattypan squash that tastes as good as it looks. The 5-inch or so fruits weigh in at 1 to 2 pounds and are ready to pick about 50 days after planting from seed. Judges marveled at the abundant yields on these 2 feet high, bushy plants.

Kohlrabi 'Konstance'
Kohlrabi ‘Konstance’ Image by all-americaselections.org

Kohlrabi ‘Konstance’ exudes a vibrant purple color as well as a sweet, crunchy texture. A curious but easy to grow and tasty addition to the vegetable garden, this kohlrabi matures at just 42 days from seed. Upright plants, about a foot high, produce round, purple 4 to 5-inch ‘bulbs’ that can be eaten fresh or served roasted or sauteed. Fruits are crack-resistant and plants resistant to several diseases.

Sweet pepper ‘Pick-N-Pop Yellow’ produces adorable, snack-size, extra sweet mini peppers. The pointed, conical fruits are about 4 inches long springing from compact 2-foot-tall plants. The prolific harvest begins about 65 days after transplanting. This variety shows great resistance to bacterial leaf spot.

One can never have too many dahlias and this year’s AAS winner, ‘Black Forest Ruby’ is a gem that can be started from seed. Since this variety is an octoploid (having 8 times the normal chromosome number) there is much variability in flower shape (ranging from single to double), plant height and structure. Most will be upright about 2 feet high with jet black foliage and ruby-red flowers. You can save tubers from the best-looking plants.

Dianthus ‘Interspecific Capitan™ Magnifica’ with its impressive bicolor pink and white frilly blooms looks as good in the garden as it does in a vase. Plus, the more you cut, the more blooms appear. Summer heat tolerance was impressive with the 2-inch flower heads also standing up to rain and cold. Plants range from 1 to 1 ½ feet tall and bloom all summer. Look for these vegetatively propagated plants at your local garden center.

Sunny sites will positively shimmy when planted with marigold Mango Tango. This rich red and primrose yellow bicolor blooms all summer long even without deadheading. Reaching only 8 to 10 inches in height makes it perfect for edging garden beds, containers or window boxes. Seeds can be started indoors and plants set out after the danger of frost has passed. Fertilize and water regularly for bountiful blooms.

Can there be too many petunias? ‘Petunia Shake™ Raspberry’ will convince you that there’s always room for one more. The fantastic flowers are reminiscent of a blended raspberry milkshake swirled with lemon-lime green sorbet. The 5 to 8 inch mounded plants can do front of the border duty, serve as groundcovers or billow over hanging baskets. Plants will bloom about 70 days from seed and hold up to heat and rain.

Snapdragon Double Shot Yellow-Red-Heart
Snapdragon‘DoubleShot™ Yellow Red Heart’Image by all-americaselections.org

I’ve never thought of snapdragons as fragrant, yet ‘DoubleShot™ Yellow Red Heart’ is said to have an amazing candy-like scent. Aside from this unusual trait, Yellow Red Heart promises to delight with vibrant yellow blossoms with a red throat that start early and continue through to a heavy frost. This snapdragon reaches about 20 inches in height with semi-double 1 to 1 ½ inch blooms produces all season long and able to tolerate light frosts.

Four regional 2025 Ornamental Winners well suited to the Northeast, include one petunia and 3 nasturtiums. If you’re looking for a vibrant pink petunia great for bedding and containers, try ‘Dekko™ Maxx™ Pink’. The vibrant pink 1 to 1 ½ inch starry blooms are produced all season long and hold up well to rain and heat.

Nasturtiums are top performers in garden beds and containers and are noted for their hummingbird attraction and edible leaves and flowers. New colors in the Baby series of nasturtiums to try out this year might be ‘Baby Gold’, ‘Baby Red’ and ‘Baby Yellow’. All can be grown from seed and start blooming about 50 days after sowing. Two-inch blooms cover compact 12-inch-high mounded plants. Colors are intense and plants stand up to drought, heat, cold, rain and wind. Considering our fluctuating summer weather, these are sure to do well both in the garden and in containers.

Check out these and past AAS winners. They were chosen because of their remarkable characteristics and they are sure to be winners in your yard too.

For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

 

 

Heirloom vs Hybrid – An Age-Old Garden Debate

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Seed catalogs piled on a desk
Seed catalogs can be overwhelming, but many have keys to help identify various traits among their products. Photo by Heather Zidack

Temperatures are dropping, the holidays are over, and gardeners are starting to look towards the next growing season with excitement. Many gardeners swear by the tried-and-true heirloom varieties, while others are drawn to the disease resistance or increased vigor of hybrids. The debate over which is “best” can get heated between gardeners. Do you know the differences?

Pollination is a key factor. Successful pollination occurs when pollen meets the sticky central part of a flower, known as the stigma. Fertilized seeds develop in the ovary, which will then form into fruit. Over the span of thousands of years, tasty fruit has proven to be a good way to help with seed dispersal in the environment. And taste, along with many other traits, have helped humans decide what plants to cultivate.

Hybrid seeds, also commonly referred to as “F1” or “F1 hybrids,” have been developed through selective breeding. To create an F1 hybrid, breeders have selected parent plants with desirable traits and pollinated them under controlled conditions. While it sounds easy enough, lineages can be tricky. It can be time consuming for plant breeders and some will spend years of their career trying to achieve a specific outcome.

F1 hybrids are often praised for their environmental resilience and higher yields, among other traits. They may be less reliable for seed savers, though, as the offspring of the F1 hybrids are not guaranteed to come back with the same traits as the original plant from your first season, a term we call “true to seed.”

Hybrid seed should not be confused with GMO or genetically modified seeds. Hybrid seed is a product of breeding and selection and does not undergo the laboratory interventions that are needed for genetic modification. Currently, there is only one GMO product available to home gardeners, known as “The Purple Tomato.”  All other GMO seed is only available commercially and farmers using these products must sign agreements that lay out the terms of use for the seed purchased.

You may find the term “open pollinated” in your search for seed. These seeds are created without direct human intervention. They have stable genetics and produce predictable traits in their offspring year after year, since they are naturally pollinated. This is great news for those gardeners who enjoy saving their own seed.

It is best to plant open pollinated varieties of similar species away from each other to avoid random cross-pollination. Alternatively, gardeners cand hand pollinate a few flowers and keep them covered. For this, I recommend mesh party favor bags that allow for the fruit to expand. Allow the fruit to develop and harvest them specifically for their seed.

Heirloom seeds are open pollinated plants that have been passed down usually over generations. Often, there is a local history or cultural significance that comes with them. You can find interesting physical traits and some beneficial resistances from heirloom seeds. Since they are open pollinated, their genetics are more likely to be stable and produce true to seed offspring for seed savers, as well.

At the end of the day, I always advise gardeners to look beyond the title and really assess what is going to meet your needs and make your experience most enjoyable. If you love to tell a story with your garden, and enjoy saving your seeds year after year, an heirloom variety might be the perfect fit! On the other hand, if you bring home a packet of tomato seeds that have been bred for small space gardening, and you plan to buy new seeds every year, then enjoy that tomato to its fullest! There are many gardens out there with a beautiful blend of both.

If you have questions about seed selection, or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Published in the Hartford Courant Jan. 11, 2025

Plant Hazards to Avoid this Holiday Season

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 By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Tree with lights
Using low-heat LED lights is a great way to reduce fire risk while keeping things festive. The stewards of this tree took the extra step of installing a rope fence to discourage visitors from damaging the tree or lights. (Photo taken by Nick Goltz)

Using low-heat LED lights is a great way to reduce fire risk while keeping things festive. The stewards of this tree toko the extra step of installing a rope fence to discourage visitors from damaging the tree or lights. (Photo taken by Nick Goltz)

With the holidays upon us, many of us are focusing, with good reason, on last-minute gifts, travelling, reconnecting with loved ones, and all the joy and stress that will inevitably come with it. With all the hustle and bustle of the season, it can be easy to overlook some of the safety hazards that also come about this time each year, especially those involving the holiday plants that we rarely give a second thought.

On countless desks, coffee tables, and, in warmer climes, doorsteps, you are likely to encounter at least a dozen poinsettias this December. Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are some of the most conspicuous and popular plants associated with the holiday season here in the US. They are often thought to be highly poisonous if ingested. While ingestion may cause some mouth and skin irritation and gastrointestinal upset, sometimes with some associated vomiting or diarrhea in small animals, poinsettias are vastly “overhyped” with their supposed toxicity.

There is no documented case of human fatality associated with poinsettia ingestion, and most calls to poison control lines for ingestion report no adverse symptoms whatsoever. Medical intervention is usually unnecessary for people or pets that ingest the plant, except for those with allergic reactions to related plants (particularly those with latex sensitivity). For more information on poinsettias and their fascinating history, see Heather Zidack’s column from mid-November, “Poinsettias: The Story of a Holiday Treasure”. While poinsettias may be overblown with regard to their supposed toxicity, other common plants one might see around the holidays, including amaryllis and mistletoe, are quite toxic to humans and pets if ingested.

What we call “amaryllis” in most stores and garden centers is likely not the true South African amaryllis (Amaryllis belladonna), but rather a related South American plant in the genus Hippeastrum, which has been cultivated more extensively and has a greater number of cultivars on the market. Both are bulbous tropical plants that bloom in winter in the northern hemisphere, and both are poisonous if ingested. The bulb, commonly sold waxed or bare in stores around the holidays to be used as a table centerpiece or hostess gift, is especially toxic and should be kept away from pets and children. If you’re curious to learn more about the history and cultivation of this holiday plant, check out Dr. Matt Lisy’s recent blog post, “Amazing Amaryllis” on the UConn Home & Garden Center’s very own Ladybug Blog (https://uconnladybug.wordpress.com/).

Though in antiquity it represented fertility and offered protection from evil, mistletoe (usually Viscum album, European mistletoe and Phoradendron leucarpum, American mistletoe) has been associated with Christmas since some point in the late 1700’s. Though lovers may steal a kiss or two beneath the mistletoe this Christmas, be sure the mistletoe can’t be stolen by children or pets as you decorate for your holiday party! Although European mistletoe is more toxic than American mistletoe, both plants are dangerous if ingested, particularly by pets and children, who may be attracted to the small white berries that have a high concentration of toxin. If you know someone that accidentally ingests a plant not known to be edible, be sure to contact the poison control hotline by calling 1-800-222-1222 or by visiting https://www.poison.org. For pets, contact the ASPCA poison control hotline by calling 1-888-426-4435 or by visiting https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control. Conveniently, they have a poisonous plants list on this site that you can reference as you shop at your local nursery or garden center.

Though thankfully Christmas trees (typically fir, pine, or spruce) are not known to be toxic to pets if ingested, the sharp needles can cause injury if ingested and the trees themselves can pose other hazards if not maintained with care! If you have a pet that likes to chew through wires (there is a scene in a famous Christmas movie that likely comes to mind), be sure to keep those out of reach, or perhaps opt for battery-powered illuminating ornaments. For their safety and yours, cats and birds should always be discouraged from climbing or flying into your tree!

Finally, though we all can appreciate rustic and vintage holiday décor, another strategy to reduce the risk of fire this holiday season is to upgrade your string lights to low-heat LEDs. Whatever type of string light you use, unplug it before you go to bed to help reduce fire risk. If you use a live tree, be sure to keep it watered as dehydrated trees are more likely to catch fire.

With these tips in mind, the Plant and Soil Health team at UConn wishes you and your loved ones a safe, joyous, and restorative holiday season! For questions regarding winter plant safety or for any other gardening questions throughout the year, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center for free advice by calling (877) 486-6271, toll-free, visit our web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

This is For the Birds!

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

A titmouse standing on a bowl of water
Titmouse on the solar sipper. Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

As December brings frigid temperatures and snowy landscapes to Connecticut, our feathered friends face unique challenges in finding the resources they need to survive. Shorter days and frozen ground make food and water scarcer, while icy winds and snow create harsh conditions for shelter. By providing birds with seed, water, and shelter, you may be making a significant difference in their survival and well-being during this often challenging season.

Winter robs many birds of their natural food sources like insects, berries, and seeds. While it is true that birds can survive without our subsidies, supplemental feeding can provide extra energy that birds need to maintain their body heat. In December, focus on offering high-calorie foods that cater to a variety of species common to Connecticut, such as chickadees, cardinals, juncos, and woodpeckers.

Many types of bird feeders are available including hopper and platform feeders, tubes, and suet cages. Whichever you choose, it should be one that can be washed out every week or so. Uneaten seed pieces and other debris can mold plus there is the chance of contagions whenever living creatures congregate.

Feeding the birds is a popular activity and there are many types of seeds, seed mixes and other foods available for purchase. Black-oil sunflower seeds are a favorite of many birds, thanks to their high-fat content and thin shells, which are easy to crack. You can buy shelled seeds to minimize the pile of shells that accumulates under the feeder. Smaller white safflower seeds are included in many seed mixes and are reputed to be a favorite of cardinals. Thistle or Niger seeds are a sought-after treat for finches and other small birds. I have only tried using a thistle sock once and found it got soggy, and the seeds froze so maybe a specialized tube feeder would be the way to go if offering this food source.

Unshelled peanuts are a great fuel for birds supplying both protein and fat. They are also a sure way to attract squirrels. I have been buying unsalted, dry roasted peanuts and put a few handfuls on my porch railing each morning when I put out the water bowl for the birds. There’s a regular assortment of birds who eagerly await their morning breakfast and the peanuts are gobbled up by titmice, chickadees, flickers, downy woodpeckers and blue jays before the squirrel even has a chance to make it to the porch from the woods.

A good seed mix for the feeder should contain a variety of food items including black-oil sunflower seed, cracked corn, safflower, peanut chips, white prose millet, and maybe some sunflower hearts and dried fruit. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for, and cheaper mixes often contain that red milo and other fillers that birds in our area are not partial to. If you notice piles of uneaten seeds under your feeders, try switching to another seed mix.

Many bird species, but especially insect eaters, really love suet. Packed with fat, suet provides essential energy and attracts woodpeckers, nuthatches, blue jays and I’ve even had crows in queue for their turn at the suet feeder. Opt for suet mixed with seeds, berries, nuts or mealworms for added nutrition.

Place feeders in somewhat sheltered areas to protect birds from the winds but make sure that they are not located near where predators can hide. Refill regularly, as food is quickly consumed in cold weather. Be on the lookout for bears. Typically, they are not a problem from mid-December through mid-March but if a bear finds your feeder, bring it in and cease feeding.

During a typical, cold winter water is a rare and precious resource. While snow can provide hydration, many birds prefer liquid water for drinking and bathing. Maintaining a water source in freezing temperatures can be a lifesaver. I opt for a Solar Sipper that I have had for years. It is just a bowl inside a bowl with a cover that has a hole in the top. It keeps the water from freezing down into the 20s, especially on a sunny day. I just bring it in at night, wash it and put out clean water in the morning. Heated birdbaths are another more hi-tech option.

December’s freezing temperatures and strong winds make safe shelter essential for birds. They need places to roost, stay warm, and avoid predators. Encourage birds to stay in your yard by planting native trees, shrubs, and evergreens. Dense conifers like spruce, hemlock, and pine provide excellent cover from snow and wind. Additionally, leaving leaf piles or brush heaps in your yard creates ground-level shelter for birds like sparrows and juncos. Refrain from cutting back seedheads from coneflowers, coreopsis, goldenrods, sunflowers and native grasses to provide natural seed sources.

Providing food, water, and shelter not only supports birds during the toughest months but also brings joy to your home. Watching vibrant cardinals against the snow or hearing the cheerful calls of chickadees can brighten even the coldest day. By creating a welcoming space for birds in your backyard, you contribute to their survival and get to enjoy the beauty of nature during winter’s quiet, cold days.

For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

‘Tis the Season for Holiday Plants

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By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

Yellow, white, and red poinsettias
The yellow Poinsettia on the left bottom corner really stands out from the traditional white. Photo by M. Lisy.

Once again, the winter holiday season is upon us!  I am sure I have said this before, but I never cease to be amazed at the seemingly endless varieties of holiday plants available.  This year, I planned on not buying any holiday plants, but one trip to two local greenhouses changed my mind immediately.  If one plant could exemplify the season, it would be the Poinsettia.  Although red and white Poinsettias have been the standard for many years, there are a lot of really neat colors available if you look hard enough.  One of my all-time favorites is orange.  I used to grow this variety when it first came out, and could never stock enough of them.  In the old days, you needed to set it next to a red one to tell the difference, but fast forward many years, and the orange is now much more intense and can stand alone in all its glory.

If I had to pick just one favorite Poinsettia, it would be the yellow.  It just looks so unusual and unlike anything else.  I first saw it years ago in small quantities in a big box store, but now they are much more common.  The regular white has a slight yellow tint to it, but there is a super bright white that looks as pure as freshly fallen snow.  Another new favorite is called “Christmas Mouse,” and has rounded leaves that resemble mouse ears in contrast to the normal pointed ones.  Of course, there are also Poinsettias that are actually spray painted with a plant-safe paint.  These plants usually also have glitter sprinkled onto them.  Even though these are artificial looking, they are beautiful works of art in their own right.

There are new varieties of cyclamen around too.  These are characterized by interestingly shaped flowers that are more open.  Some of the varieties even have the flowers turned upright.  The colors are amazing and range from dark maroon reds to almost neon pink.  Another plant I am really excited to see this year is the Amaryllis.  These have been around an extremely long time, but what changed is the number of places carrying many different varieties for sale.  I like when I can just buy the bulb and pot it up on my own.  This is less expensive and allows me to buy more varieties.  There are even some places selling the bulbs with a type of paint coating on them which is said to eliminates the need for watering.  I prefer a bulb in a pot as I think it looks more natural, but that is a matter of opinion.  What I have seen a lot less of this year is the Christmas Cactus.  While they are still around, their numbers are not nearly as plentiful as in the past.  The Amaryllis and Christmas cactus are the two plants you can keep long term.  They each have special care routines that you will need to follow to get them to bloom again the following year.  The Christmas cacti need a certain lighting (or darkness) period, and the Amaryllis need a dry dormant period.

Wherever you are going for the holidays, I suggest bringing one of these festive plants to the host as a gift.  There is nothing more cheerful than a brightly colored plant during the dark days of winter.  On that note, why not buy some for yourself and enjoy them all season?  Either way, I suggest you make the most of things with a nice new plant variety that you never had before.  There certainly are plenty from which to choose!

Cyclamen in flower and amaryllis bulbs
A beautiful new cyclamen variety and a few large Amaryllis bulbs. Photo by M. Lisy.

For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.ladybug.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Holiday Gifts for Gardeners

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Vegetables in garden basket
Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

Let the holiday shopping begin! Compared to many family members and friends, buying a gift for the gardener in your life is a breeze. Lots of great possibilities and there’s always the option of a gift certificate to their favorite local garden center. These are just some of my personal suggestions.

With long, dark days settling in, reading is a great winter sport. I’m partial to whodunnits and might curl up with The Garden Party by Marty Wingate or The Garden Club Murder by Amy Patricia Meade. For non-fiction readers, especially those longing for greater self-sustainability, perhaps Small-Scale Homesteading by Michelle Bruhn and Stephanie Thurow might be an informative resource when just starting out. With all the calls we get about vegetable problems, two books by Susan Mulvihill; The Vegetable Garden Pest Handbook and The Vegetable Garden Problem Solver offer up lots of great photographs and least toxic controls for a myriad of insects, diseases and other pest problems. Of course, you can also call us at the Center for assistance.

Gardening magazines still offer excellent articles, advice and inspiration. A subscription to the Connecticut Gardener should be in every CT gardener’s mailbox or inbox. Fine Gardening is also CT based and fills our head with amazing plant information and truly inspiring gardens. I’ll also admit to a subscription to both Horticulture and The American Gardener.

Working in the garden often brings me to my knees and when that up close and personal, I find there are 2 tools always in my bucket. First is a Cobra head weeder, crafted in Wisconsin last I looked. This curved-headed tool can be used for weeding, thinning, making seed rows, digging in little seedlings and whatever other use you can come up with; a multi-tasking tool that is long-lasting and affordable. My deluxe soil knife features a smooth, sharp side and a serrated side with inch measurements, useful when planting. I find it does a nice job dispatching both annoying roots and jumping worms. When deployed on the ground, those larger, oval-shaped kneelers are tough and functional.

In my most recent issue of The American Gardener, there is a Craftsman 54-inch wood-handle action hoe that I would like to try so I can weed standing up. It works with a manual push-pull action but might be just the thing us older gardeners need.

While I have 2 different types of pruners that are great for stems from about a half to one inch in diameter, I can use help on the opposite extremes. Last year my sister got me a hand-held mini-chainsaw and it is wonderful for removing 1 to 3 inch or so stems or branches. It’s really made pruning much easier. On the other end of the spectrum, a pair of horticultural scissors with long blades treated to resist rust would be great for harvesting or deadheading cut flowers as well as indoor houseplant grooming.

For years, I have placed picked vegetables, whether peppers, carrots or chard into those attractive wicker baskets. Recently, I was given one of those garden trugs made out of recycled plastic that had holes on the bottom so I could gather up my harvest and then hose the soil off in the same container. There are several trugs on the market including those made of wood and wire mesh. They do make cleaning your vegetables a lot easier than doing it at the kitchen sink.

Gardeners go through gloves and despite what the ads say, if a pair lasts me a season, I’m lucky. They are always needed and appreciated, and you can’t go wrong gifting these to a gardener. For those with a lot of roses, consider purchasing a pair of rose gauntlets so their arms won’t get all scratched up when pruning.

Indoor gardeners might appreciate watering cans with long spouts that dispense water slowly, attractive cache pots, houseplant fertilizers, cork plant coasters or misters. Bird lovers may enjoy feeders, bird baths, bird houses or seed and suet for their fine-feathered friends.

There are many types of garden ornaments to present to your plant loving friends and family. Plus, tis the season for holiday plants – poinsettias, holiday cacti, amaryllis, frosty ferns are just a few of the selections that your gardener recipient might enjoy. With all these choices, the gardener on your gift list is sure to be pleased.

For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Poinsettias: The Story of a Holiday Treasure

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Poinsettias: The Story of a Holiday Treasure
By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Princettia poinsettias in white, hot pink and light pink
Photo by dmp2024

It just isn’t the holiday season without a poinsettia. We adorn homes, churches, and other public spaces with them at this time of year. Their bold color and striking presence are hard to miss.  With a story as spectacular as their seasonal color, the poinsettia is a plant to be treasured.

Poinsettias have a rich history and culture. While we associate them with the coldest time of year here in the Northeast, they actually come from a much warmer climate! Known as Cuetlaxochitl in their native region of Mexico, they were cultivated and used by indigenous peoples for medicines, dyes, and decorations. In Aztec culture, the Cuetlaxochitl held cultural significance as a symbol of purity and were also used to symbolize a new life earned by warriors who had died in battle. The Mayans called this plant k'alul wits. Many traditional uses for k’alul wits are still practiced by the Téenek people in southeastern Mexico, today.

Their association with the Christmas holiday started when Franciscan monks in Mexico began to use their bright red and green foliage to decorate nativity scenes. It became known as la flor de Nochebuena, translating to “the Christmas Eve flower.” It was brought to the United States by Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. minister to Mexico, in 1825. Poinsett was a man of many talents, having a career in politics, a passion for science, and an enthusiasm for agriculture. Through continuous plant breeding and developments, there are now hundreds of varieties of poinsettia.

Contrary to popular belief, poinsettia flowers are small and barely noticeable. The insignificant yellow flowers are surrounded by stunning, colorful bracts. Bracts are not flower petals, but rather, specialized leaves. The bracts of a poinsettia change color when daylight hours begin to shorten. Breeders have developed poinsettias that have bracts of various shapes, textures, and colors. Some are variegated or have speckles of color on them. These cultivated varieties (cultivars) are quite different from the straight species, Euphorbia pulcherrima, in its native environment, where it can grow over 10 feet tall, is semi-evergreen, and can sometimes grow a bit scraggly.

Poinsettia on greenhouse bench
Photo by H. Zidack

Greenhouses start poinsettia production as early as July. Tiny plugs get put into their pots while we’re all still soaking up the summer sun. (It makes sense when you remember that they’re originally from Mexico!) They grow as little green plants through the rest of summer and autumn. The fall equinox will naturally trigger these plants to change color, however, growers can manipulate their greenhouses to create ideal darkness/brightness to help time the coloring of their plants for holiday sales.

If you’ve got a green thumb and are trying to get a previous years’ poinsettia to “reflower,” simulating this dark period with an opaque container, paper bag, or moving the plant into a closet or dark location for 14-16 hours a day can do the trick! Make sure they’re receiving 8 hours of bright, direct light, and not a ray more! After about 4 weeks of these conditions, most poinsettias can go back to their life with your other houseplants, as normal, and you should see a change in color.

Shopping for a new poinsettia as a gift or decoration this year? Always shop for a plant that is brightly colored and has tight (tiny yellow) flowers that aren't already going by. Select a plant that has evenly moist soil, and a nice shape that doesn’t appear to have been crowded for too long. Here in Connecticut, make sure that your florist, grocer, or grower packages the poinsettia for you to help protect it from cold winds while transporting it to and from your car. When you get it home keep it away from entryways, drafts, fireplaces, or heating vents, and keep it in a room that is between 60° and 70°F. Water your poinsettia when the soil begins to dry out in the pot and enjoy the holiday season.

Whether you’re reviving an old poinsettia, shopping for a new one, or deciding that artificial is the best choice for your home this year, take the time to recognize the special journey these plants have taken to become such a treasure and staple in our holiday celebrations. There truly isn’t anything quite like it!

For questions about caring for your poinsettias or for other gardening queries, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Berry Good Pick for Winter Interest

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Winterberry shrub with no leaves and bright red berries.
Winterberry shows winter interest with no leaves and bright red berries. Photo by dmp2024

Looking for a splash of color in your yard amid winter’s dreary landscape? Check out one or more of the many winterberry (Ilex verticillata) cultivars. This deciduous member of the holly family sports bright, shiny red berries from early fall through late winter. Branches may be cut and used in holiday arrangements.

Winterberry can be found growing throughout eastern North America from Canada down along the east coast and west to Texas. Look for the brilliant red berries when driving past marshy areas in particular. While winterberry will grow in well-drained soil, it is a great candidate for areas that stay moist and aren’t particularly well drained. These plants naturally occur in forested wetlands as well as along the banks of streams, ponds or other water sources.

There are several factors to consider when selecting a winterberry bush for your yard. One of the most important is the mature size of the plant. Cultivars are available that vary from dwarf, 4-foot, compact plants to 15-foot, more rangy specimens. ‘Red Sprite’ and ‘Berry Poppins’ are two red-berried, compact cultivars. ‘Winter Red’ and ‘Sparkleberry’ typically top 10 feet. Check out suggested cultivars for Connecticut with the UConn Plant Database (https://plantdatabase.uconn.edu/). While initially slow growing, winterberries may eventually form clumps through suckering and depending on the cultivars, may form dense stands if allowed.

The berries on most cultivars are a brilliant red. There are, however, some that have gold or orange fruits. ‘Goldfinch’ boasts golden yellow berries while both ‘Aurantiaca’ and ‘Afterglow’ offer delightful orangey fruit.

Do realize that plants are dioecious, meaning that individual plants may be male or female. Only the female plants produce berries. The male plants supply the pollen to fertilize the female’s flowers so that berries are produced. One male plant can fertilize at least 10 females if located within 50 feet or closer. Look at tags so a compatible male cultivar is chosen. Appropriate pollinators should be listed on nursery tags.

Unless plants are in bloom or have berries, it is not possible to tell males from females, but they should be marked on their tags at the nursery. When in bloom, the female flowers have tiny green immature berries in the center while the males have fluffy, yellow, pollen-bearing anthers. Occasionally the female flowers have non-pollen bearing anthers, probably effective is luring pollinators to fertilize their flowers. Although not common in Connecticut, one native species of cellophane bee, Colletes banksi, is a specialized pollinator of winterberry.

Winterberry with full berry display.
Photo by dmp2024

Winterberries do best in full sun to partial shade. The shadier the site they are grown in, the fewer blossoms and berries they will produce. Being native New Englanders, they prefer acidic soils rich in organic matter. If your soil pH is between 5 to 6.5, plants should happily grow. Once plants are established, only minimal fertilization is usually required. For the first few years, about a cup of a complete organic or synthetic fertilizer could be lightly worked into the soil surrounding the plant each spring.

Plants can be used in foundation plantings, as a hedge, in rain gardens and when setting up areas attractive to wildlife. Not only are pollinators attracted to the flowers but over 48 species of birds feed on the berries, typically after they soften following periods of freezing and thawing.

Pruning can be tricky and is best kept to a minimum so selecting the right sized cultivar for your particular site is crucial. Winterberries have an upright growth habit but may sucker. They bloom on old wood meaning the flower buds that open in the spring were formed last fall. If grown as a multi-stemmed shrub, a few stems can be removed if plants seem crowded.

Complaints about little or no berry production may be due to lack of a male pollinator, too much shade, young plants that have not established a good root system, improper pruning or excessively dry conditions. In general, winterberries are rewarding, easy to grow shrubs that make quite the impact when little else in the landscape stands out.

For questions about selecting or growing winterberries or for other gardening queries, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

 

 

The Fall Invasion of the Asian Lady Beetle

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By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

multi-colored Asian ladybeetle on a flower

As the leaves change color and the weather turns colder, many people look forward to the beauty and coziness of autumn. However, one uninvited guest often accompanies the season: the Asian lady beetle. This insect, scientifically known as Harmonia axyridis, can be a nuisance to homeowners as it seeks shelter in warm buildings during the fall months.

The Asian lady beetle is native to eastern Asia but was introduced to the United States and other parts of the world in the early 20th century as a biological control agent for aphids and other pests. While they are highly effective at controlling these pests in the gardens and crops, their rapid spread and tendency to congregate in large numbers have caused problems for homeowners.

These beetles are easily recognizable by their orange to reddish-brown coloration, small black spots on their wing covers, and distinctive M-shaped marking behind their head. Their size ranges from 5-8mm in length. They have six short legs and two antennae.

During the fall, the Asian lady beetle seeks protected locations to spend the winter. They gather in large groups, often on the sunny side of buildings, before ultimately finding their way into homes and other structures through cracks and gaps. It is not uncommon to find them gathered in attics, wall voids, or other quiet, undisturbed areas.

Once inside, these beetles can become a nuisance due to their sheer numbers and tendency to release a yellowish, foul-smelling liquid when disturbed. This liquid can stain walls, fabrics, and other surfaces, and may cause allergic reactions in some individuals. Additionally, some people find the beetles’ scent unpleasant or even nauseating.

Prevention is key to avoiding an Asian lady beetle infestation. Sealing entry points, such as cracks around windows, doors and utility openings, can significantly reduce the likelihood of an invasion. Additionally, keeping exterior lights off at night and planting trees or shrubs away from the house can reduce the attractiveness of your home to these insects.

If beetles have already found their way inside, using a vacuum cleaner is the best means of removal. However, be sure to dispose of the vacuum bag or empty the canister outdoors immediately to prevent the beetles from returning back into your home. Alternatively, insect light traps or sticky traps can help capture and remove beetles.

It’s essential to remember that while the Asian lady beetle can be a nuisance, it is not a significant threat to your home or your health. Taking proactive measures to prevent their entry and managing their presence can significantly reduce the annoyance caused by these uninvited guests.

As the fall season arrives, keep in mind the potential for Asian lady beetles to seek shelter in your home. By understanding their behavior and implementing preventive measures, you can enjoy the beauty and warmth of autumn without the invasion of these pesky insects.

If you have questions about Asian lady beetles or other gardening topics, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr,uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Do You Dig Dahlias?

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Dahlias in a bed at Enders island
Dahlias at Enders Island. Photo by dmp2024

A couple of weeks ago, I was fortunate to visit the spectacular dahlia gardens on Enders Island in Mystic. For those unfamiliar with this retreat, an 11-acre seaside estate was donated to the Society Edmund by Mrs. Alys E. Enders in 1954. This Roman Catholic religious community offers ministry, retreats and respite to many. The grounds are open to all for contemplation or just unbound appreciation of nature and horticultural beauty.

Gardeners will delight in the gorgeous, well laid out garden rooms but especially be entranced by the vast array of dahlias. The gardens at Enders Island are filled with over 300 varieties of prize-winning dahlias in all colors (except blue), shapes and sizes imaginable. A Dahlia Preservation Trust was established to preserve the dahlia collection that is rated as one of the largest in New England.

Any of us growing dahlias while appreciating their cheery, attractive blossoms lasting long into the fall, do realize they are not winter hardy, even with milder winters attributed to climate change.  Dahlias are native to Central America. In fact, they are Mexico’s national flower. Those wishing to save the tuberous roots for replanting next year, must dig them up and store them over the winter.

Ideally, gardeners should wait until a frost blackens the foliage. Then, if possible, wait a week so any carbohydrates left in the above ground tissue can make their way to the roots to enable good sprouting next spring when the tuberous roots are replanted. This has been a particularly confusing fall to both plants and gardeners. Frosts have hit some areas but often not severe enough to affect all plants and dahlias in more protected sites are still blooming their heads off, a trait most appreciated by pollinators such as bees.

On the other hand, it is November. Time to reign in gardening activities and begin preparations for the holidays. What’s a gardener to do?

Since my plants were losing bottom leaves to disease and looking a little ragged, I just decided it was time to dig them and move the tuberous roots into the cellar. Before digging any dahlias, be sure to note their names. If tags were not written out when planting, make them out now if color and flower type are important.

Cut back stems to 2 or 3 inches and carefully dig the tubers starting at least 8 inches away from crowns so tubers do not get sliced or speared. Use a spade or pitchfork but dig in carefully. This year the soil is so dry that it was not necessary to leave the tuberous roots in the sun for a few hours so the soil clinging to them could dry and be shaken off. Every one I dug up was dry enough so that practically no soil clung to the roots. Each was placed in a separate container with repurposed labels.

Dahlia tubers with a white tag
Dahlia tubers tagged for storage. Photo by dmp2024

Perusing through online sources, many suggest washing tubers off with a hose and letting them dry before storing. I have let them dry out in wet falls and shaken dried soil from them before storing but have never hosed them off. Maybe follow the approach that makes most sense to you. If any remaining soil is washed off, the tuberous roots should most likely be stored in lightly moistened peat moss or other slightly damp organic material, so they will not desiccate over the winter. For me, leaving a bit of soil around the roots that are stored in pots in the cellar over winter helps to keep tubers from shriveling with only a sparse sprinkle of water once or twice a month.

When happy, dahlias will multiply but it is probably best to leave the whole clump together and separate it before planting next spring when multiple buds or eyes can be seen. Keep the tuberous roots at 45 to 55 degrees F and check every 2 to 3 weeks for signs of decay or desiccation.

For an early start, the tuberous roots can be set into beds usually by late April unless unseasonably cold weather is predicted. If you have questions about overwintering dahlias or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.