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Gifts for the Gardener on Your List

Posted on December 20, 2025December 23, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

A decorated Christmas tree with white lights and various ornaments, surrounded by wrapped presents on a red tree skirt. — Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

If you have a gardener in your life, last minute holiday shopping can be tough. Each year, we provide a list of suggestions that might help you as you’re shopping. For 2025, we are considering gardener comfort and adaptability.

Gardening Gloves

While it seems like a trivial gift and your gardener may already have a good pair, gardening gloves are a great gift! It’s always nice to have an extra pair in case your hands get wet working in muddy soil, or if you manage to lose them. Our gloves wear over time, and can thin, stretch, and decline in quality as seasons change. While any pair may be helpful as a backup pair, you might get bonus points for finding your gardener’s favorite brand or style. These are readily available in hardware stores or year-round garden centers.

UV Protective Clothing

With the improvement of UV protective textiles, gardeners can find them in all sorts of forms. UV shirts, gloves/sleeves, and even hats are available to help your gardener stay protected from the sun. This is great for anyone who loves being outdoors, but especially those who may have extra sensitivities to sunlight. While not a direct substitute for sunscreen, they can help provide a little extra protection. I find that these often are best found online, though I have seen individual items at independent garden centers, sporting stores, and gift shops throughout the state.

Cooling Towels

Athletic cooling towels are meant to help keep you cool. Soak them in cool water, wring out the excess and wear as a scarf or drape over your shoulders. The evaporative cooling from the towel helps you stay cool even during the warmest summer days. While they’re usually found with the sports gear, your gardener will love them, too!

Waterproof Shoes

Nobody likes wet feet, especially in the garden. Help the gardener you love stay dry by gifting them with a pair of waterproof shoes! These come in many forms such as rubber rain boots, rubber clogs, or even waterproof sneakers. They can be found at sporting goods stores, shoe stores, or online.

Shop Smart

There are many gifts beyond these recommendations that may suit the gardener in your life. As we approach the last-minute shopping season, keep these tips in mind to help you find the perfect gift.

Look carefully at the label of any seed mixes, seed bombs, or other plantable gifts, especially if you are intending to gift native seeds. Many of these mixes sold across the country may provide plants native to North America, but not necessarily native to our region. The label provides a percentage breakdown of every species of seed included. Cross reference to ensure that they are native to our region.

Purchase durable tools and equipment over novelty items. Give your gardener gifts that they will be able to use for years to come. While gloves with claws to help you dig are fun and unique, a good trowel will stay part of your gardener’s arsenal for many years.

Consider your gardener’s interests to help guide your gifting. If your loved one plants more flowers than vegetables, a garden hod might not be the right fit for them. If they hate weeding, a gift to make the chore easier might be a great fit! Think about the ways the person you’re gifting likes to spend time in their garden and tailor your gift to them.

Don’t rule out experiential gifts just because it’s winter. Gardeners who wish to continue to learn and spend time with like-minded green thumbs may enjoy a workshop, class, or conference. Many regional garden shows (including the CT Flower & Garden Show) take place during the winter. Local garden clubs, libraries, or garden centers may also offer educational workshops that you could purchase tickets for in advance.

Shop smart. While we can’t recommend any brands or specific places to shop, use your smart consumer skills when looking for these or any other gifts this season. Reading reviews, using trusted retailers, and balancing quality with price will help you verify that these gifts will impress.

If you’re shopping last minute for that gardener in your life, remember that it doesn’t have to be stressful! Keep comfort, adaptability, and their unique interests in mind for a gift that’s sure to please!

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Seasons Greetings

Posted on December 13, 2025December 18, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

It is hard to believe it is that magical time of year again. Thoughts turn to how we are going to celebrate the holidays. This would, of course, include decorating our living spaces. Fortunately for plant people, there are no shortage of choices for the season. Plants also make wonderful gifts to take to a holiday gathering. After all, they bring nothing but joy and cheer.

Red, pink, and cream poinsettias with solid and variegated leaves arranged together. — Poinsettias come in some amazing colors. Shown here are solid red and pink as well as two-toned combinations of colors (photo by M. Lisy).

The first holiday plant that comes to mind is the poinsettia. Although native to Mexico, they seem to have found their way into every corner of the country. It is not actually flowers that are the stars of the show, but the colored leaves. What was once a beautiful red has been selectively bred for some absolutely amazing colors. My all-time favorites include a newer snow-white colored one, yellow, and the orange varieties. If two-tone leaves are preferred, there are neat red with pink centers and white with pink centers – both of which look absolutely stunning. A new one for this year has snow white leaves with a slight pink blush at the center. Of course it does not end there! There are varieties like “Jingle Bells” which looks like the red has white paint splattered all over it, which makes it a real conversation piece. The “Christmas rose” comes in many colors now and has the leaves swirled into a rose shape.

The poinsettias are beautiful, but they take a little bit of TLC to get them to stay that way. They should only be watered when they are dry to the touch on the surface. Let them dry too long, and they drop leaves. Cold drafts will produce the same result. If water is splashed on the leaves, the spots will discolor and dry, ruining the look. These plants are best watered from the bottom by filling the tray they are sitting in with water and letting the soil and roots wick it up. Poinsettias tend to fall from grace after the holiday season, and therefore are treated as a temporary decoration.

There are a number of other plants that will make just as nice of a display. The first is the Christmas cactus. They bloom profusely this time of year. They also make a great houseplant if they are allowed to dry out between waterings. To get them to rebloom the following year, put them in a room that is only illuminated by natural light – mother nature will take care of the rest (they need a critical period of darkness to flower). These plants can be so long lived that they can become family heirlooms.

Pink and white cyclamen flowers with green variegated leaves, featuring a “Merry Christmas” gift tag. — Cyclamen plants come in many different colors, styles, and combinations. A deep pink ended in light pink is pictured here (photo by M. Lisy).

Some lesser-known plants include the frosty fern, which is not a fern at all, but a Selaginella (Spikemoss). Although some species can tolerate extreme desiccation, the species sold during the December holiday season cannot. These are great for people who love to over water because if they dry out at all, they will wither and die. They actually prefer to be in moist, soggy soil but not submerged. Cyclamen are nice looking plants with the flowers held above the leaves. These are somewhat long lasting, but tend to go dormant. They seem to be hard for most people to keep long term. Kalanchoe plants have beautiful flowers of all different colors, but these are also a challenge to keep as a long-term houseplant. Amaryllis bulbs can be beautiful when blooming, and after a dormant season may rebloom the following year. These are easy to keep provided the watering is done only while growing and not while dormant or dying back.

I do not know if it is the marketing or the colors of holiday plants that make them so popular, but do not forget about traditional houseplants for gifts. Some nice philodendrons, spider plants, pothos, or snake plants certainly make wonderful additions to any home. There are so many beautiful new varieties coming to the market all the time. No matter what plant species is chosen, plants tend to put a smile on the face of the receiver. In my opinion, there is no greater gift. If the choices are too many, then why not get a gift certificate for a local independently owned nursery or greenhouse? Happy holidays!!!

Barn Cupolas And What They Do

Posted on December 6, 2025December 8, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Two large cupolas with louvered vents on a weathered barn roof, partially obscured by green trees. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Cupolas are small structures built over a hole in the roof centerline to provide light, ventilation, a nice view or perhaps some decoration to the overall structure. While found on many kinds of buildings including the International Space Station, the main purpose of barn cupolas is functional over form. With the advent of tighter barn construction to keep livestock warm during the winter, moisture buildup became a problem. The cupola became a necessary addition to barns to help reduce this moisture buildup and to allow fresh air to enter the barn.

While used in the Middle East and eventually in Europe, these structures were more decorative than functional. They were eventually used less as domes became more popular. In the United States, cupolas were introduced in the late 1700s by settlers from Europe and used as barns increased in size and allowed for more hay storage and livestock housing. Tighter construction by means of siding and better roofing became the norm in the mid 1860s, and this resulted in ventilation issues as moisture levels increased.

The larger amounts of hay could build up heat and occasionally spontaneous combustion occurs if fresh air is not provided. Both the hay and the barn could be destroyed. Tighter barns also meant more moisture from both the breathing of the cows and from a constant deposit of urine and manure. Fresh air and the removal of moisture was needed for the health of livestock and to prevent mold developing on and ruining stored hay.

The solution was a nifty piece of architecture called a cupola. Farmers started installing cupolas as a means to draw out hot, moist air and stale gases from manure via louvered slats on all four sides. Fresh air could also enter while rain and snow were mostly kept from entering the roof as these louvers were downward facing. The health of livestock kept in close quarters in cold weather improved, and mold development on stored hay was reduced through this ventilation. Additionally, livestock kept warmer in the cold months required less food, so hay lasted longer and in good condition.

The spacing, size, and number of cupolas needed depended upon the linear footage of roof centerlines. The number of livestock and amount of hay storage were also considered. This is why some barns have many of these structures, while other barns may only have one or two. Barns with open sides have no need for cupolas.

Yellow wooden cupola with louvered vents and decorative trim against a clear blue sky — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

While the primary function of cupolas has been to provide ventilation for haylofts and livestock areas, there are many styles of cupolas that also incorporate various decorative designs. On Hanks Hill Road in Mansfield, there are two barns on two different properties near each other that have the exact same unique design, which is rather fancy while still being functional. I suspect the same person designed and built both as they are almost identical in decorative woodwork and unusual peaked roof lines. I have not found other cupolas with such intricate woodwork and wonderful design features.

Historic barns often have fixed or awning windows that either don’t open or that are hinged on the top or bottom and open only slightly. Some cupolas are topped with a weathervane or a finial. Farmers took great pride in their barns. They could be a large investment, so it’s understandable that many put elaborate cupolas on their barns to make a statement about their pride and prosperity. As you drive around farm country, perhaps now you will notice some interesting cupolas that have been there all along.

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

Highlighting Connecticut’s Winter Cheer: Common Witch Hazel

Posted on November 29, 2025December 2, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Branches of witch hazel with clusters of yellow, ribbon-like flowers against a clear blue sky and autumn foliage. — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Connecticut’s native species of Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, is a remarkably unique woody ornamental that can be found as a large shrub or small tree. It comes to the rescue this time of year as the leaves continue to drop and our surroundings become starved of color. Its foliage in autumn is a showstopping yellow.

Hamamelis virginiana can grow between 10 and 20 feet tall and is often nearly just as wide as it is tall. In ideal conditions, some can even grow as large as 30 feet tall. It has a loose and somewhat open, irregular rounded shape and is very attractive in landscaping when used as hedge rows, woodland edge planting, or along a pond or river. It’s the last plant to come into bloom each year in the Northeast, blooming from October to December. The bloom coincides with its flashy fall foliage, making it one of the most eye-catching specimens of the winter landscape.

The blooms are bright yellow with spidery, ribbon-like petals and have a pleasant citrusy fragrance. They are clustered tightly around the branches, and the petals curl up protectively during cold spells. A few cut branches in a vase will be sure to perfume and brighten up your home during the dreary winter months. Its late flowers attract certain species of flies, bees, gnats, and cold-tolerant moths. These insects are a food source for native songbirds such as kinglets, chickadees, and titmice.

The medicinal qualities of the Common Witch Hazel are world renowned and have been utilized for centuries. Its anti-inflammatory properties serve as a soothing remedy for bruises, itches, sunburns, acne, and small wounds. In fact, Common Witch Hazel extract is one of the only medicinal plants approved by the FDA as a nonprescription drug. Always consult with a medical professional before incorporating the use of medicinal plants. It's worth noting that there have been several Witch Hazel processing plants in Connecticut, starting in the 19^th Century. To this day, most of the world’s Witch Hazel extracts are still produced in East Hampton, Connecticut.

Consider planting a Common Witch Hazel or two in your yard, mixed with hollies, viburnums, and dogwoods for some late-season cheer. Common Witch Hazel will grow in a variety of conditions, from moist to dry, and shaded to sunny. Flowers are most abundant when planted in full sun. It prefers acidic, nutrient-rich, well-draining soil. It’s quite hardy, growing in zones 4 through 8, and has very little trouble with pests or diseases. After establishment, they are virtually care-free. The only maintenance of note is periodic pruning to remove suckers if a controlled shape is desired.

Although it is a slow growing plant, it is worth the wait when it bursts into bloom. With so much going for it, this is a plant that deserves greater consideration for use in ornamental landscapes and yards.

Road Salt and Your Soil

Posted on November 23, 2025November 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

When I was a graduate student from Nepal living in New Haven from 2012 to 2014, I kept noticing the same winter aftereffect across town. Along busy streets, the first foot of lawn by the pavement turned yellow and matted, and the road-facing sides of yews and hollies burned while the yard sides looked fine. Coming from a place that does not spread salt each winter, it felt backward. We made the road safer, but the plants and soil paid the price. At UConn’s Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab, we hear versions of this every spring. People send soil from a strip along the road or from a bed near the driveway and say that spot never greens up like the rest.

You have also likely noticed the symptoms. Fine particles form a crust on the soil surface where water evaporates. Turf browns right at the pavement edge. Buds on the roadside of a shrub fail to break. Evergreens brown on the street side when traffic spray carries salty water, while the interior needles stay green. Vegetable beds that sit too close to plow piles can exhibit poor emergence, tip burn, or slow growth, even when the rest of the garden appears fine.

What road salt does to soil

Sodium chloride (rock salt) is the most widely used deicer. Once it dissolves, it separates into sodium (Na⁺) and chloride (Cl⁻). Chloride is highly mobile. It moves with meltwater, so in a wet spring, it can leach through the soil and, where conditions allow, reach groundwater, affecting well water quality.

Sodium changes how soil behaves. In healthy soil, calcium and magnesium sit on exchange sites; repeated sodium inputs displace them, sealing the surface, reducing infiltration, and making the soil feel tighter right where plants already struggle. Sodium also competes with potassium uptake, so salt-burned spots can look nutrient-deficient even when tests show adequate levels.

Alternatives to sodium chloride are often less harsh but cost more. Magnesium chloride and calcium chloride melt at lower temperatures but still add chloride and can injure plants and corrode concrete and metal. Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) is chloride-free and generally gentler, yet it’s pricier and harder to find.

Lab testing and management options

If you inform the lab that the sample is from a salt-affected area (such as a roadside, plow pile, or splash zone), they will interpret the numbers with that history in mind and, if necessary, use the appropriate salinity method for your sample.

Soil pH and texture (and organic matter). Sandy roadside fill flushes salts quickly but is more susceptible to damage due to its low buffering capacity. Heavier soils with more organic matter hold up better but can crust at the surface after repeated salting. For optimal plant health and reduced salt uptake, aim for a pH of approximately 6.5–7.0; your report will include a lime rate if your pH is below this range.
Soluble salts / electrical conductivity (EC). EC shows how salty the root zone was when you sampled. It is most informative right after winter or snowmelt, when salts are near the surface. For mineral soils, labs typically measure EC from a simple soil–water extract.

Dense green shrub with numerous small, bright red berries growing along its branches, situated against a brick and white wall in a landscaped area. — Plants like the Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) may be able to stand up to some salt exposure in the landscape. Some varieties may be more resistant than others. (Photo by H. Zidack)

Start with prevention. Before winter, top-dress the first 1–2 feet along the road with a thin layer of compost to improve structure and exchange capacity. Keep that strip covered, overseed thin turf, or use a salt-tolerant edge, and ask the plow operator to place piles where meltwater drains to the street or to vegetation that isn’t over your well line. Where meltwater goes matters as much as how much salt you use.

After winter, fix what the season left behind. If the roadside sample shows elevated EC, lightly loosen any compacted or crusted soil so that water can infiltrate. Then, leach the area with two or three deep soakings a few days apart to push salts below the main root zone. If a hedge or shrub burns on the roadside year after year, consider moving it back or replacing the front row with more salt-tolerant plants.

For chronic hotspots, shift from one-time flushing to long-term protection: use less deicer, keep piles away from beds and wells, maintain dense groundcover in the first foot along pavement, and in harsh exposures, consider stone mulch plus seasonal compost topdressing to help the soil rebound.

If your well water tastes salty, check the state’s road-salt guidance and contact your town. When the damage is limited to curb strips or driveway beds, soil testing and better winter practices usually solve it.

Winterize your Garden Gear Before It’s Too Late!

Posted on November 8, 2025November 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Outdoor water spigot with attached green hose and rust around the base on concrete. — Y Connectors like this should be removed and stored inside to keep the plastic from cracking in the winter. Photo by H. Zidack

It’s already November! It doesn’t seem like that long ago when we were giving advice about seeding lawns and watering in new fall plantings. Now that the time has changed, the days feel shorter, and the nights are getting colder, it’s important to remember to take the time to properly store your garden equipment and accessories before locking up the shed for the season.

Freezing temperatures are on the way fast. Drain and roll up any hoses to remove tripping hazards from the landscape. Store them inside a garage or shed to keep them out of the elements and lengthen their lifespan of use in the garden. Make sure that your outdoor water systems are properly winterized. Whether that means flushing your irrigation system, or simply shutting off your outside water, don’t forget this important step to protect your pipes! Once lines are turned off, open external valves to relieve any remaining pressure.

Water can not only wreak havoc on pipes but many garden accessories, too. A glass rain gauge left outside can and will freeze and shatter outdoors. Ceramics like pottery and bird baths are susceptible to cracking, so store them either in the shed or upside down in a sheltered area. Stash your garden gnomes, garden flags and solar pathway lights to protect them from fading and damage. Brittle cold, freezing water, and a careless throw of the snow shovel could spell disaster for garden décor left out in the open.

Inside the shed, take a quick inventory. Leftover seed or bagged mulch could be rodent attractants. Seeds should be stored in areas safe from extreme temperatures to preserve germination rates. Bird seed should be stored in animal proof containers. Chemical products like pesticides and fertilizers may be adversely affected by temperature fluctuations and freezing. They could also make a real mess if a water-based or pressurized solution were to burst. Products leftover from the growing season should be evaluated and moved into a space safe from freezing temperatures. Product labels or manufacturers will have storage and disposal information to help you make the best decision about what to do with your garden chemicals at the end of the season.

Close-up of a rusty metal latch with a padlock on a weathered gray wooden door. — Before you lock up the shed for the winter, remember to winterize! Photo by H. Zidack

Winter will be a great time to thoroughly clean, repair, and sharpen tools. Store them somewhere that is easy to get to later so you can make sure your tools are fresh for the new season! If you have to do the seasonal shed shuffle, this is also a great time to rotate the lawn mower and snow thrower to prepare for the first storms of the season.

Speaking of your gas-powered equipment, check your owner’s manuals for winterizing recommendations and instructions to help maintain the life and quality of your equipment. You may need specific maintenance before long term storage. Contact a professional for any maintenance tasks that you do not feel confident performing on your own.

If you’re running out of space in the shed and garage, consider covering lawn furniture with UV and mildew resistant covers. Take down awning covers and temporary structures. I, myself, have fallen victim to the false sense of security of a mild winter, only to be devastated by the collapse of my garden tent in the first, albeit belated, heavy snow.

While all of this seems like common sense, the mad dash from here to the holidays will have many of us pulled in different directions. Our equipment, tools, and garden infrastructure are some of the biggest investments we put into our gardens. Hopefully this short checklist will help you knock out those last few chores that come with maintaining a four season New England garden.

Chestnuts: A Tasty Thanksgiving Treat

Posted on November 8, 2025November 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Seven brown chestnuts resting on two yellow autumn leaves on a wooden surface — Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

With Thanksgiving approaching, many of us will be sitting down to hearty feasts with family and friends. Time-tested recipes on worn index cards or heavily thumbed cookbooks are combed through/uncovered. Many of us gardeners pick a few new plants for our gardens each year, so why not try a new plant on the dinner table? Chestnuts were reputedly served at the first Thanksgiving and thanks to dedicated breeding programs may be available locally today.

It’s hard to imagine that a little over 125 years ago there were probably 4 billion American chestnuts (Castanea dentata) spread out from southern Maine to northern Georgia. They were an important food source for both indigenous people as well as wildlife. Early European settlers found their rot resistant wood useful for many building purposes.

Unfortunately, a disease (Cryphonectria parasitica), known as chestnut blight, was unintentionally introduced in 1876 on imported Japanese chestnuts (C. crenata). These were sold via mail order throughout the eastern U.S., and our native American chestnuts soon became infected. This fungus spreads by windblown spores. Signs of infection include a reddish-orange ‘rash’ on the affected bark and as it reproduces, an orangey substance oozes from pores in the bark. Cankers form and eventually the plant can no longer internally transport water and nutrients. Chestnut blight kills the parent tree but not the roots so even to this day, you are able to find sprouts growing from chestnut roots. As the sprouts develop, they too will be killed back by the blight so while the tree is kept alive, American chestnuts are considered functionally extinct, but all is not lost.

Fortunately, both researchers and chestnut lovers have been working pretty much for the past 100 years on developing varieties resistant to chestnut blight. Breeding work has been done in many locations but the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station began their program in the early 1900s and it is the only program that has continued uninterrupted to this day. Presently this CAES program is led by Forest Pathologist and Ecologist, Dr. Susanna Kerio.

Various chestnut species including American, Chinese Japanese and European have been crossed, backcrossed, planted, evaluated, culled and selected by researchers and enthusiasts all over the eastern U.S. As one can imagine, it takes more time to evaluate a tree’s characteristics than say, an annual plant like a tomato.

Organizations like The American Chestnut Foundation started in 1982 have been championing the search. According to Deni Ranguelova, the New England Regional Science Coordinator, the goal is to develop blight resistant chestnuts and restore this magnificent tree to its native range. Members of this organization have the opportunity to obtain straight species or hybrid seed to try their hand at growing chestnuts and add observations to the chestnut knowledge base.

Why all this work on chestnuts? Well for one, they are deliciously mild and sweet. They are low in calories and high in fiber. Chestnuts are a good source of potassium and other nutrients. Eat them freshly roasted (just like in the song!), in holiday stuffings, soups, in main dishes and glazed. To cook them, they do need to be scored whether oven roasted, boiled, steamed or microwaved to keep them from bursting. Lots of instructions, recipes and videos can be found online.

Second, plants are productive. In fact, it was estimated that before their demise that a mature American chestnut may be able to produce 6000 nuts! They can serve as a food source to both people and wildlife as researchers and enthusiasts create blight resistant strains to plant in our natural areas or in commercial orchards.

Aside from being a member of The American Chestnut Foundation and obtaining seed, one can order chestnut seedlings from several online nurseries. Keep in mind that chestnuts do best in a sunny area with well-drained soil. Root rots can occur in poorly drained areas. Plants are being bred to be straight and tall for timber, or shorter and wider for nut production. Make sure you have enough space for a mature chestnut tree, or most likely 2 trees as chestnuts need another plant for cross pollination.

Even if a chestnut tree is not in your future, do try some chestnut dishes at your Thanksgiving table. They may start a new tradition.

You Are the Sunshine of My Life

Posted on November 1, 2025November 25, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Small potted plants inside a clear plastic dome under bright pink LED grow lights. — The pink/purple light caused from a combination of red and blue LEDs are great for growing these Cissus discolor cuttings, but it does not help humans to see their true colors (photo by M. Lisy).

This old song seemed like the perfect title for talking about artificial lights for houseplants. Even if there are windows in a room, the amount of light is very low. Fortunately, there are relatively cheap LED options available. Light is made up of the different colors, or wavelengths, of the visible spectrum – Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet. A plant’s pigments capture light energy and use it to make food. Chlorophyll production peaks in the red and blue spectrums, but accessory pigments help plants capture additional wavelengths of light. As such, there are optimal wavelengths of light that will better support plant growth. This is known as Photosynthetically Active Radiation, or PAR. We measure PAR by using the Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, or PPFD. This measures the amount of photons of light in the correct range hitting a specific area, and is measured in micromoles per square meter per second (µmol/m2/s). A PAR meter is an expensive way to measure how much usable light is available for your plants.

LED specialty lamps that have a good spectral output (PAR) are easily acquired. I would caution the buyer to read the reviews to help judge the quality. Good lights will generally include some description of PAR and/or PPFD. Light quickly diminishes with distance, as it essentially becomes less concentrated. Look in the product information for how close the plant should be to the light for maximum effectiveness. Generally, keep the plant 12-18 inches away from the light source. If it is too close, or the light is too bright, plants can be burned, drop leaves, or become spotted. A cheaper option is to use existing light fixtures and replace the bulbs with either full spectrum or plant grow bulbs. The ideal plant grow bulbs look pink, as they have red and blue LEDs. Full spectrum bulbs tend to have a better mix of wavelengths to make the light appear more natural to us, but still have good PAR. CRI, or Color Rendering Index is a measure of a light’s ability to accurately show colors compared to natural light. The closer to 100, the better the light’s appearance.

We can also judge a bulb by “color temperature” reported with a Kelvin number. For example, a 2700K bulb is commonly referred to as a warm white. This is reminiscent of the light given off by a traditional incandescent bulb, and shows heavier output in the red end of the spectrum. A 6000K bulb would be called a “daylight” bulb, and has a heavier output in the blue end of the spectrum.

Many people confuse quality of light with brightness, which is measured in lumens. Light can be very bright, but of poor quality. Too bright, and it may burn the plants. Also, buying a light that throws out a lot of green light does not do much, even if it has a high output (lumens). Lastly, Watts are used as a measure of energy consumption. While it is true that higher wattage may mean a greater output of light energy, the efficiency of LEDs means that a lot less watts are needed to put out the same number of lumens as compared to an incandescent bulb.

So, then, this begs the question: What light is best for growing plants? To answer, I am going to assume that the plants are going to be displayed in the living area and viewed by people regularly. In this case, I would try and find a 5000K bulb with a CRI close 97 or 98, and a PPFD rating that matched the requirement of my plants for the given distance from the light fixture.

The following is a quick list of what is useful and what is not useful as a metric for plant growth:

PAR - Photosynthetically Active Radiation. It is the ideal measurement for plant growth.

PPFD - Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density. It is a useful metric to judge output at a particular distance from the fixture.

Kelvin - Kelvin refers to “color temperature” – lower number more red (ex. 2700), higher number more blue (ex 6500). It is not detailed enough as a metric for plant growth.

CRI - Color Rendering Index. It is useful for how true-to-life the plants will look.

Lumens - A unit to measure brightness. It is not particularly useful as a metric for plant growth.

Watts - How much energy is used to run the bulb/fixture. It’s not useful as a metric for plant growth, but lower wattage costs less to run equipment.

Warm vs Cool - Warm indicates the red end of the spectrum while cool indicates the blue end of the spectrum. See Kelvin. It is not detailed enough as a metric for plant growth.

Don’t Let Dry Soil Follow Your Plants Into Winter!

Posted on October 25, 2025October 28, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

This year, Connecticut’s notably dry summer conditions have continued into fall. According to the U.S. Drought Monitor, all counties are abnormally dry for this time of year, and some are even considered to be in a moderate drought. Thus, many trees, shrubs, and perennials are heading into winter low on moisture. These conditions combined with the dry air, low precipitation, and fluctuating temperatures characteristic of Connecticut winters can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided. Many of your plants will benefit from a deep final soak before the ground freezes.

Fall drought stress often doesn’t show up until spring, or even the following summer.Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring, using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened or die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Browning evergreens, delayed leaf-out, and sudden dieback are common signs of plants that went into winter too dry.

Moist soil is so important in the fall and winter months because it provides insulation to the roots. It may seem counter-intuitive, but properly hydrated soil does a much better job at protecting roots from freezing temperatures than dry soil. Root damage occurs for this reason when plants do not receive enough late-season moisture.

Woody plants with shallow root systems require the most supplemental water during extended dry periods in the fall and winter. Trees in this category include maples, birches, willows, and dogwoods. This category also includes perennials, and shrubs like hydrangeas, boxwoods, and azaleas. These plants benefit from mulch to further conserve soil moisture and buffer the roots from temperature swings. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the trunk all the way to the outermost reach of its branches in a doughnut shape.

Evergreen needles up close — Evergreens need sufficient water in dry falls to help prevent winter injury. Photo by Heather Zidack

Evergreens also benefit from fall and winter watering because they do not go dormant in the winter. Evergreens of any age are still actively respiring during the coldest months of the year and will continuously lose water through their needles. If they go into the winter with dry soil, they are more likely to have a difficult spring recovery. This is especially true for those in open or windy areas.

Only water when daytime temperatures are above 40°F, ideally in the late morning or early afternoon so the water can soak in before possible freezing at night. Feel the soil at a depth of 4 to 6 inches to ensure that supplemental water is necessary. Soil should be consistently moist, but not oversaturated or muddy. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because plants cannot absorb water through frozen soil. To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water that can penetrate deeper into the soil with limited runoff. If your hose is already stored away for the winter, and your tree or shrub is small, consider drilling a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and filling that with water for a slow, steady stream. If dry weather continues into the winter and there’s little snow cover, additional watering once or twice a month may be needed until the soil hardens.

A final round of watering now can prevent root injury that won’t be visible until much later. Evergreens, deciduous trees, and other landscape plantings will head into winter stronger with a little extra attention this month. Giving the soil one last watering before it freezes is one of the simplest ways to protect your landscape from winter stress.

Why is My Lilac Blooming in the Fall?

Posted on October 18, 2025October 20, 2025 by Zidack, Heather

Bumblebees on fall blooming lilacs — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Spring-blooming woody plants like lilacs (especially the old, grafted varieties), ornamental cherries, forsythia, crabapples, azaleas and some magnolias set their flower buds for the following year in early summer shortly after flowering.  Usually, flower buds are triggered to bloom by environmental conditions which normally occur after an extended fall and winter cold period, followed by longer days and warming temperatures in spring. It is not typical for these plants to have a second bloom in the fall, but environmental conditions sometimes trigger premature flowering in the fall. Some plants may have only a few flowers rebloom, while other plants may have more flowers open in the fall.

Some of the reasons for this out of season bloom are extended summer heat and drought conditions where supplemental water is lacking. Severe early defoliation, especially from certain fungal pathogens, can also contribute to reblooming. The past two springs have been very wet and diseases such as anthracnose and Pseudocercospora spp. leaf spot may have caused leaves to brown, shrivel and drop early. This stresses the shrub and contributes to out of sync rebloom if other conditions are right. Good sanitation practices such as cleaning up infected leaves will be helpful in reducing fungal infections the following year.

If a plant is healthy and relatively unstressed, the normal seasonal move to cooler weather triggers dormancy. Plants that are deciduous will drop leaves as daylight length and temperature both decrease. Next year’s leaf and flower buds will also remain in a dormant state. Flowering and leafing out will be triggered by increasing daylight and air temperatures the next spring.

Lilac flowers opening in October — Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

If certain woody plants have been stressed during the growing season, however, the change to cooler weather followed by some warmer weather can trigger some of the flower buds to open prematurely. This false dormancy especially affects flower buds near the tops of old-style lilacs where it is sunnier and warmer. Ornamental cherries may show sporadic flowering all over the tree where there is a southern exposure.

While fall reblooming of ornamental trees and shrubs can lead to a disappointing floral display the following spring, it is not harmful to the plant. After a less showy spring bloom period, flower buds will be produced normally. If stressful conditions caused by environmental conditions, insect pests or fungal pathogens are minimal, then a second bloom in autumn is unlikely to occur. Gardeners and landscapers can only do so much, and while the weather is out of our control, making sure plants are maintained properly to avoid stress during the summer will go a long way in helping them remain as healthy as possible.

Home and Garden Education Center