Yard & Garden

Road Salt and Your Soil

By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

When I was a graduate student from Nepal living in New Haven from 2012 to 2014, I kept noticing the same winter aftereffect across town. Along busy streets, the first foot of lawn by the pavement turned yellow and matted, and the road-facing sides of yews and hollies burned while the yard sides looked fine. Coming from a place that does not spread salt each winter, it felt backward. We made the road safer, but the plants and soil paid the price. At UConn’s Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab, we hear versions of this every spring. People send soil from a strip along the road or from a bed near the driveway and say that spot never greens up like the rest.  

You have also likely noticed the symptoms. Fine particles form a crust on the soil surface where water evaporates. Turf browns right at the pavement edge. Buds on the roadside of a shrub fail to break. Evergreens brown on the street side when traffic spray carries salty water, while the interior needles stay green. Vegetable beds that sit too close to plow piles can exhibit poor emergence, tip burn, or slow growth, even when the rest of the garden appears fine.  

What road salt does to soil 

Sodium chloride (rock salt) is the most widely used deicer. Once it dissolves, it separates into sodium (Na) and chloride (Cl). Chloride is highly mobile. It moves with meltwater, so in a wet spring, it can leach through the soil and, where conditions allow, reach groundwater, affecting well water quality. 

Sodium changes how soil behaves. In healthy soil, calcium and magnesium sit on exchange sites; repeated sodium inputs displace them, sealing the surface, reducing infiltration, and making the soil feel tighter right where plants already struggle. Sodium also competes with potassium uptake, so salt-burned spots can look nutrient-deficient even when tests show adequate levels. 

Alternatives to sodium chloride are often less harsh but cost more. Magnesium chloride and calcium chloride melt at lower temperatures but still add chloride and can injure plants and corrode concrete and metal. Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) is chloride-free and generally gentler, yet it’s pricier and harder to find. 

Lab testing and management options 

If you inform the lab that the sample is from a salt-affected area (such as a roadside, plow pile, or splash zone), they will interpret the numbers with that history in mind and, if necessary, use the appropriate salinity method for your sample. 

  1. Soil pH and texture (and organic matter). Sandy roadside fill flushes salts quickly but is more susceptible to damage due to its low buffering capacity. Heavier soils with more organic matter hold up better but can crust at the surface after repeated salting. For optimal plant health and reduced salt uptake, aim for a pH of approximately 6.5–7.0; your report will include a lime rate if your pH is below this range.
  2. Soluble salts / electrical conductivity (EC). EC shows how salty the root zone was when you sampled. It is most informative right after winter or snowmelt, when salts are near the surface. For mineral soils, labs typically measure EC from a simple soil–water extract. 

    Dense green shrub with numerous small, bright red berries growing along its branches, situated against a brick and white wall in a landscaped area.
    Plants like the Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) may be able to stand up to some salt exposure in the landscape. Some varieties may be more resistant than others. (Photo by H. Zidack)

    Start with prevention. Before winter, top-dress the first 1–2 feet along the road with a thin layer of compost to improve structure and exchange capacity. Keep that strip covered, overseed thin turf, or use a salt-tolerant edge, and ask the plow operator to place piles where meltwater drains to the street or to vegetation that isn’t over your well line. Where meltwater goes matters as much as how much salt you use. 

    After winter, fix what the season left behind. If the roadside sample shows elevated EC, lightly loosen any compacted or crusted soil so that water can infiltrate. Then, leach the area with two or three deep soakings a few days apart to push salts below the main root zone. If a hedge or shrub burns on the roadside year after year, consider moving it back or replacing the front row with more salt-tolerant plants. 

    For chronic hotspots, shift from one-time flushing to long-term protection: use less deicer, keep piles away from beds and wells, maintain dense groundcover in the first foot along pavement, and in harsh exposures, consider stone mulch plus seasonal compost topdressing to help the soil rebound. 

    If your well water tastes salty, check the state’s road-salt guidance and contact your town. When the damage is limited to curb strips or driveway beds, soil testing and better winter practices usually solve it.  

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations. 

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 23, 2025

    Winterize your Garden Gear Before It’s Too Late!

    By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Outdoor water spigot with attached green hose and rust around the base on concrete.
    Y Connectors like this should be removed and stored inside to keep the plastic from cracking in the winter. Photo by H. Zidack

    It’s already November! It doesn’t seem like that long ago when we were giving advice about seeding lawns and watering in new fall plantings. Now that the time has changed, the days feel shorter, and the nights are getting colder, it’s important to remember to take the time to properly store your garden equipment and accessories before locking up the shed for the season.

    Freezing temperatures are on the way fast. Drain and roll up any hoses to remove tripping hazards from the landscape. Store them inside a garage or shed to keep them out of the elements and lengthen their lifespan of use in the garden. Make sure that your outdoor water systems are properly winterized. Whether that means flushing your irrigation system, or simply shutting off your outside water, don’t forget this important step to protect your pipes! Once lines are turned off, open external valves to relieve any remaining pressure.

    Water can not only wreak havoc on pipes but many garden accessories, too. A glass rain gauge left outside can and will freeze and shatter outdoors. Ceramics like pottery and bird baths are susceptible to cracking, so store them either in the shed or upside down in a sheltered area. Stash your garden gnomes, garden flags and solar pathway lights to protect them from fading and damage. Brittle cold, freezing water, and a careless throw of the snow shovel could spell disaster for garden décor left out in the open.

    Inside the shed, take a quick inventory. Leftover seed or bagged mulch could be rodent attractants. Seeds should be stored in areas safe from extreme temperatures to preserve germination rates. Bird seed should be stored in animal proof containers. Chemical products like pesticides and fertilizers may be adversely affected by temperature fluctuations and freezing. They could also make a real mess if a water-based or pressurized solution were to burst. Products leftover from the growing season should be evaluated and moved into a space safe from freezing temperatures. Product labels or manufacturers will have storage and disposal information to help you make the best decision about what to do with your garden chemicals at the end of the season.

    Close-up of a rusty metal latch with a padlock on a weathered gray wooden door.
    Before you lock up the shed for the winter, remember to winterize! Photo by H. Zidack

    Winter will be a great time to thoroughly clean, repair, and sharpen tools. Store them somewhere that is easy to get to later so you can make sure your tools are fresh for the new season! If you have to do the seasonal shed shuffle, this is also a great time to rotate the lawn mower and snow thrower to prepare for the first storms of the season.

    Speaking of your gas-powered equipment, check your owner’s manuals for winterizing recommendations and instructions to help maintain the life and quality of your equipment. You may need specific maintenance before long term storage.  Contact a professional for any maintenance tasks that you do not feel confident performing on your own.

    If you’re running out of space in the shed and garage, consider covering lawn furniture with UV and mildew resistant covers. Take down awning covers and temporary structures. I, myself, have fallen victim to the false sense of security of a mild winter, only to be devastated by the collapse of my garden tent in the first, albeit belated, heavy snow.

    While all of this seems like common sense, the mad dash from here to the holidays will have many of us pulled in different directions. Our equipment, tools, and garden infrastructure are some of the biggest investments we put into our gardens. Hopefully this short checklist will help you knock out those last few chores that come with maintaining a four season New England garden.

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 8, 2025

    Don’t Let Dry Soil Follow Your Plants Into Winter!

    By Holly McNamara, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

    This year, Connecticut’s notably dry summer conditions have continued into fall. According to the U.S. Drought Monitor, all counties are abnormally dry for this time of year, and some are even considered to be in a moderate drought. Thus, many trees, shrubs, and perennials are heading into winter low on moisture. These conditions combined with the dry air, low precipitation, and fluctuating temperatures characteristic of Connecticut winters can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided. Many of your plants will benefit from a deep final soak before the ground freezes.

    Fall drought stress often doesn’t show up until spring, or even the following summer.Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring, using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened or die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Browning evergreens, delayed leaf-out, and sudden dieback are common signs of plants that went into winter too dry.

    Moist soil is so important in the fall and winter months because it provides insulation to the roots. It may seem counter-intuitive, but properly hydrated soil does a much better job at protecting roots from freezing temperatures than dry soil. Root damage occurs for this reason when plants do not receive enough late-season moisture.

    Woody plants with shallow root systems require the most supplemental water during extended dry periods in the fall and winter. Trees in this category include maples, birches, willows, and dogwoods. This category also includes perennials, and shrubs like hydrangeas, boxwoods, and azaleas. These plants benefit from mulch to further conserve soil moisture and buffer the roots from temperature swings. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the trunk all the way to the outermost reach of its branches in a doughnut shape.

    Evergreen needles up close
    Evergreens need sufficient water in dry falls to help prevent winter injury. Photo by Heather Zidack

    Evergreens also benefit from fall and winter watering because they do not go dormant in the winter. Evergreens of any age are still actively respiring during the coldest months of the year and will continuously lose water through their needles. If they go into the winter with dry soil, they are more likely to have a difficult spring recovery. This is especially true for those in open or windy areas.

    Only water when daytime temperatures are above 40°F, ideally in the late morning or early afternoon so the water can soak in before possible freezing at night. Feel the soil at a depth of 4 to 6 inches to ensure that supplemental water is necessary. Soil should be consistently moist, but not oversaturated or muddy. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because plants cannot absorb water through frozen soil. To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water that can penetrate deeper into the soil with limited runoff. If your hose is already stored away for the winter, and your tree or shrub is small, consider drilling a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and filling that with water for a slow, steady stream. If dry weather continues into the winter and there’s little snow cover, additional watering once or twice a month may be needed until the soil hardens.

    A final round of watering now can prevent root injury that won’t be visible until much later. Evergreens, deciduous trees, and other landscape plantings will head into winter stronger with a little extra attention this month. Giving the soil one last watering before it freezes is one of the simplest ways to protect your landscape from winter stress.

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 25, 2025

    Why is My Lilac Blooming in the Fall?

    By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Bumblebees on fall blooming lilacs
    Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Spring-blooming woody plants like lilacs (especially the old, grafted varieties), ornamental cherries, forsythia, crabapples, azaleas and some magnolias set their flower buds for the following year in early summer shortly after flowering.  Usually, flower buds are triggered to bloom by environmental conditions which normally occur after an extended fall and winter cold period, followed by longer days and warming temperatures in spring. It is not typical for these plants to have a second bloom in the fall, but environmental conditions sometimes trigger premature flowering in the fall. Some plants may have only a few flowers rebloom, while other plants may have more flowers open in the fall.  

    Some of the reasons for this out of season bloom are extended summer heat and drought conditions where supplemental water is lacking.  Severe early defoliation, especially from certain fungal pathogens, can also contribute to reblooming. The past two springs have been very wet and diseases such as anthracnose and Pseudocercospora spp. leaf spot may have caused leaves to brown, shrivel and drop early. This stresses the shrub and contributes to out of sync rebloom if other conditions are right. Good sanitation practices such as cleaning up infected leaves will be helpful in reducing fungal infections the following year. 

    If a plant is healthy and relatively unstressed, the normal seasonal move to cooler weather triggers dormancy. Plants that are deciduous will drop leaves as daylight length and temperature both decrease. Next year’s leaf and flower buds will also remain in a dormant state. Flowering and leafing out will be triggered by increasing daylight and air temperatures the next spring. 

    Lilac flowers opening in October
    Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    If certain woody plants have been stressed during the growing season, however, the change to cooler weather followed by some warmer weather can trigger some of the flower buds to open prematurely. This false dormancy especially affects flower buds near the tops of old-style lilacs where it is sunnier and warmer. Ornamental cherries may show sporadic flowering all over the tree where there is a southern exposure.  

    While fall reblooming of ornamental trees and shrubs can lead to a disappointing floral display the following spring, it is not harmful to the plant. After a less showy spring bloom period, flower buds will be produced normally. If stressful conditions caused by environmental conditions, insect pests or fungal pathogens are minimal, then a second bloom in autumn is unlikely to occur. Gardeners and landscapers can only do so much, and while the weather is out of our control, making sure plants are maintained properly to avoid stress during the summer will go a long way in helping them remain as healthy as possible.  

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 18, 2025

    We Asked Gardening Pros If You Should Rake Leaves From Garden Beds—And They All Agreed

    We Asked Gardening Pros If You Should Rake Leaves From Garden Beds—And They All Agreed

    The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other professionals give their insight on raking leaves from your garden beds.

    What’s changing with fertilizers in Connecticut, and how to shop smarter this fall?

    By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

    If you shop for fertilizer in Connecticut this fall, you will see some labels missing from the shelves and more paperwork behind the ones that remain. The reason is new state rules targeting certain ingredients and how they are documented. 

    A compost pile on the edge of a woodlineOn October 1, 2024, Connecticut banned products made from biosolids or wastewater sludge that contain PFAS from being used or sold in the state as soil amendments. Biosolids are the treated solids left from wastewater treatment. Some products made from them were marketed for lawns and gardens in the past years. Connecticut’s new law closed that door to reduce PFAS in soils and runoff. 

    So what are PFAS and why the crackdown? Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS, are a large class of “forever chemicals” added to products to resist water, grease, and stains. They do not break down easily and can build up in people, soil, and water. Health agencies have linked PFAS exposure to certain cancers, immune system effects, and developmental concerns, which is why Connecticut has been tightening rules to limit the entry of these chemicals into our environment. 

    Effective July 1, 2025, the legislature extended the PFAS biosolids restriction from soil amendments to fertilizers as well. The law also requires manufacturers and registrants to provide a certificate of compliance showing that any fertilizer or soil amendment that contains biosolids is free of PFAS. Products that do not meet the standard must be removed from Connecticut shelves.  

    What this means for your yard and vegetable beds is simple: expect fewer “biosolids-based” fertilizers on the market and expect clearer paperwork behind any products that remain. If you relied on those products for lawns or gardens, it is time to switch to other nutrient sources. 

    How can you read labels to avoid fertilizers and Soil amendments with PFAS? 

    • Check the ingredients panel. Look for words like “biosolids,” “sewage sludge,” “municipal waste,” or “residuals.” If you see those, consider a different product.  
    • Look for an analysis or ingredient list that spells out plant, animal, or mineral sources, such as feather meal, alfalfa meal, composted poultry manure, sulfate of potash, or rock-derived nutrients. These indicate non-biosolid ingredients. 
    • Ask your retailer. If a product contains biosolids, the maker must keep a certificate on file stating the product is compliant. Retailers should know whether a certificate exists for what they sell. If they cannot confirm, do not buy.  

    Safer sourcing ideas that are easy to find 

    • Start with a soil test. Match products and rates to what your soil actually needs. The UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory provides routine tests with fertilizer and lime recommendations for home lawns and gardens. 
    • Yard-waste compost and leaf mulch made from leaves, grass clippings, and wood chips are reliable ways to add organic matter to the soil. 
    • Use animal-based fertilizers like composted poultry manure or feather meal, plant-based products like alfalfa meal, and mineral fertilizers like sulfate of potash and limestone.  
    • Biosolids are not allowed in certified organic production. “OMRI Listed” inputs follow the USDA National Organic Program, which prohibits sewage sludge. Choosing “OMRI Listed” products can be a practical way to avoid biosolids entirely.  

    A few quick FAQs 

    • Do I need to throw away the fertilizer I already own? Yes, but only if it contains PFAS or biosolids with PFAS. The new rules apply to the sale and use in the state. Contact your town’s household hazardous waste program for proper disposal guidance.  
    • Will PFAS show up on a routine soil nutrient test? Standard nutrient tests do not include PFAS. If you are concerned about legacy PFAS on a property that received biosolids, specialized testing is required. Your local Extension office can help you locate appropriate resources. 
    • What about compost from my town? Ask what goes into it. Compost made only from leaves, grass, wood, and animal waste is a safer choice for home gardens under the new rules. 

    Connecticut has removed PFAS-containing biosolids and fertilizer products from the garden marketplace. Expect clearer documentation from manufacturers and fewer sludge-based products on shelves. With a little label reading and a few ingredient swaps, you can keep building healthy soil while staying on the right side of the regulations.  

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at  extension.uconn.edu/locations 

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 11, 2025

    Got Garlic?

    By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Garlic belongs to the allium family, which includes onions, shallots, chives, and even some ornamental plants. People have strong feelings about garlic; they either love it or hate it. Whether you add it to your pantry of seasonings or not, there are tons of fantastic reasons to plant it in your garden.

    Garlic cloves
    Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Garlic is great for gardeners on the go. One of my favorite things about these plants is the window in which they grow. You plant cloves in October and harvest the bulbs in July. Planting garlic cloves is one of the last things I do in my garden before hanging up my gloves for the season. This means I have an entire bed already working for me when the spring starts. In early summer, you can harvest the young flower spikes, known as scapes, and use them in recipes for a mild garlic flavor. They blend beautifully with early season cole crops to make some fantastic spring dishes!

    From a practical standpoint, the time saved in planting an entire bed before the season has even started is invaluable. Their presence helps to retain garden soil and prevent loss through erosion over the dormant season. Their care is minimal, only needing a side-dress of fertilizer in the spring and supplemental water when active growing starts. On top of all of that, they package themselves perfectly for storage, when cured and stored properly.

    A garden bed of garlic with half of the plants removed
    Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Another fantastic benefit to having garlic in your garden beds is that it is well equipped to fend off many vertebrate and invertebrate types of pests. From personal experience, my garlic beds have not needed a fenced in area like my other vegetables and have been relatively undisturbed by local wildlife.  While there are claims out there regarding companion planting, I only can confirm for certain that the properties of garlic keep animals away from garlic plants. Scientists are also studying the benefits of garlic for the microbial environment in the soil, to see what other impacts they may have.

    As large bulbs develop, they help to break up the soil in the bed for whatever is next to come in the rotation. Once garlic bulbs are harvested, we usually have anywhere between 90 and 100 days left of the growing season. This is plenty of time to rotate in a fast-growing crop like leafy greens, summer squash, carrots, radish, or even some kinds of brassicas.

    If you do decide to give garlic a try this year, make sure you pick up clean seed garlic from a trusted source. As with any other plant, healthy starting material will help in yielding healthy plants. Hardneck varieties tend to grow best in our climate. They have a firm stem that starts at the base of the bulb and grows through the plant, giving it a strong single stalk during the growing season (this is where the scapes come from). They need a vernalization (cold) period, which is why it is best to plant them before the ground freezes. There are many varieties of hardneck garlic with a wide range of flavors.

    Do not use garlic cloves from the grocery store. Grocery stores typically carry softneck garlic, which has no central stem and may have more cloves inside. A lot of our commercial garlic is grown in California.  Softneck garlic may not grow as well in our climate. In addition, commercial agricultural produce can sometimes be treated with growth inhibitors or inadvertently carry pests or pathogens that would not serve your garden well. Local farms, farmers markets, and harvest festivals are great resources to find quality planting garlic. There are also reputable catalog companies out there, but you better get to ordering as time is short!

    Garlic leaves peeking through straw mulch
    Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Before planting, break the garlic bulb into its numerous cloves. Don’t be too concerned if some skin flakes off of the outermost layer, but do not peel the garlic before planting it. The intact skin acts as a protective barrier to keep them from rotting in the soil. Place cloves pointy end up in the soil at a depth of 1-2 inches, depending on the size of the clove. Water in and cover with a straw or leaf mulch, and it’s done! Don’t be too shocked if you see them start to emerge from the soil before the snow. Leave them be and assess in the spring, sometimes you don’t even have to cut those leaves back!

    Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, garlic offers something for everyone. Its numerous benefits in the garden, plus its versatility in the kitchen provide a great starting point for those who want to have their own garden-to-table experience. You’ll be a pro in no time!

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 4, 2025

    Extend Your Fall Color with More than Mums!

    By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    A garden bed with mums cabbage and millet
    Photo by H. Zidack

    By September, many of our ornamental garden beds and containers are ready for a refresh. Fall annuals help us bring color and vibrancy back into the garden while we still can enjoy the outdoors. The classic go-to for many gardens is the traditional chrysanthemum. These rotund, uniform little plants come in many different colors, various flower shapes, and a wide range of blooming periods from the end of August until the end of October. For extended color, it is often recommended to plant a mix of early, mid, and late season mums to ensure that color will last throughout the autumn. Alternatively, gardeners can mix mums with other types of annuals and perennials to extend their season of color and build a textured, multi-dimensional garden display. 

    A unique challenge with fall annuals is that they do not grow as vigorously as spring and summer annuals. In terms of size, oftentimes the plant you purchase is the plant you will see in your garden for the remainder of the season. It is important to purchase your plants with this in mind. Fill your space densely and don’t hold as much space for plants to “grow into.” 

    Large, full ornamental grasses like Pennisetum ‘Rubrum,’ Pennisetum ‘First Knight,’ or varieties of Millet will take up a lot of space and add height and an airy texture to your annual display.   If working in a container, add these giants to the middle of your planters and work your way outwards with other annuals.  

    Yellow flowers with brown centers surrounded by ornamental grasses in a display
    Rudbeckia Hirta 'Denver Daisy' in an autumn display. Photo by H. Zidack

    Varieties of Rudbeckia hirta, like the ‘Toto’ series can take up a large space and have an open habit and less uniformity when compared to the traditional mum. Echibeckia (Rudbeckia x Echinacea hybrids) also do a great job of filling the space. Autumn is their time to shine and shine they do! Some of them may be hardy to Zone 6 but always check the variety and plant label to know if they have a chance of survival.  

    We’re always looking to get more for our money. Don’t let your fall garden spruce up be any different this season!  Garden perennials that are currently in bloom, like RudbeckiaSedum, or Asters can be purchased and planted in containers for fall display. When they start to wind down, re-plant them somewhere in the garden before the ground freezes for a chance of coming back next season. Who doesn’t love a multi-purpose purchase? 

    Many of us think of pansies and violets as spring flowers. However, they are gaining more traction in the world of ornamental horticulture as an autumn accent plant. These tiny flowers are already adapted to warm days and cool nights, and come in a wide range of colors for every gardener to enjoy. If you’re lucky, they’ll drop seeds and pop back up again in the springtime!  

    Annuals like Nemesia and Snapdragons are well adapted to our autumn temperatures and will produce flowers well into the autumn season, though may need frost protection to keep flowers beautiful.  

    One of the risks we take with flowering annuals in the autumn is the risk of frost damaging flowers before their time. When frosts are expected, it is important to cover plants to preserve flowers. If you find this is a lot of work, let me introduce you to ornamental kale and cabbage. A symbol of a bountiful harvest, these plants naturally lend themselves to an autumn display and can last far beyond their flowering counterparts. In fact, the colder they get, the more vibrant their foliage becomes!  

    A wheelbarrow full of flowers and pumpkins
    Photo by H. Zidack

    Again, using perennials in fall displays, lends itself to solving this problem. As hardy plants, they are able to adapt to cooler nights and light frosts. This works well with foliage plants like Heuchera, or hardy ferns, that do not need additional frost protection to survive.  

    To add the finishing touches to your display, consider adding pumpkins, hay bales, or even a home-made scarecrow! Your fall garden will be the envy of the neighborhood! 

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 27, 2025

    This is For the Birds!

    By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    A titmouse standing on a bowl of water
    Titmouse on the solar sipper. Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

    As December brings frigid temperatures and snowy landscapes to Connecticut, our feathered friends face unique challenges in finding the resources they need to survive. Shorter days and frozen ground make food and water scarcer, while icy winds and snow create harsh conditions for shelter. By providing birds with seed, water, and shelter, you may be making a significant difference in their survival and well-being during this often challenging season.

    Winter robs many birds of their natural food sources like insects, berries, and seeds. While it is true that birds can survive without our subsidies, supplemental feeding can provide extra energy that birds need to maintain their body heat. In December, focus on offering high-calorie foods that cater to a variety of species common to Connecticut, such as chickadees, cardinals, juncos, and woodpeckers.

    Many types of bird feeders are available including hopper and platform feeders, tubes, and suet cages. Whichever you choose, it should be one that can be washed out every week or so. Uneaten seed pieces and other debris can mold plus there is the chance of contagions whenever living creatures congregate.

    Feeding the birds is a popular activity and there are many types of seeds, seed mixes and other foods available for purchase. Black-oil sunflower seeds are a favorite of many birds, thanks to their high-fat content and thin shells, which are easy to crack. You can buy shelled seeds to minimize the pile of shells that accumulates under the feeder. Smaller white safflower seeds are included in many seed mixes and are reputed to be a favorite of cardinals. Thistle or Niger seeds are a sought-after treat for finches and other small birds. I have only tried using a thistle sock once and found it got soggy, and the seeds froze so maybe a specialized tube feeder would be the way to go if offering this food source.

    Unshelled peanuts are a great fuel for birds supplying both protein and fat. They are also a sure way to attract squirrels. I have been buying unsalted, dry roasted peanuts and put a few handfuls on my porch railing each morning when I put out the water bowl for the birds. There’s a regular assortment of birds who eagerly await their morning breakfast and the peanuts are gobbled up by titmice, chickadees, flickers, downy woodpeckers and blue jays before the squirrel even has a chance to make it to the porch from the woods.

    A good seed mix for the feeder should contain a variety of food items including black-oil sunflower seed, cracked corn, safflower, peanut chips, white prose millet, and maybe some sunflower hearts and dried fruit. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for, and cheaper mixes often contain that red milo and other fillers that birds in our area are not partial to. If you notice piles of uneaten seeds under your feeders, try switching to another seed mix.

    Many bird species, but especially insect eaters, really love suet. Packed with fat, suet provides essential energy and attracts woodpeckers, nuthatches, blue jays and I’ve even had crows in queue for their turn at the suet feeder. Opt for suet mixed with seeds, berries, nuts or mealworms for added nutrition.

    Place feeders in somewhat sheltered areas to protect birds from the winds but make sure that they are not located near where predators can hide. Refill regularly, as food is quickly consumed in cold weather. Be on the lookout for bears. Typically, they are not a problem from mid-December through mid-March but if a bear finds your feeder, bring it in and cease feeding.

    During a typical, cold winter water is a rare and precious resource. While snow can provide hydration, many birds prefer liquid water for drinking and bathing. Maintaining a water source in freezing temperatures can be a lifesaver. I opt for a Solar Sipper that I have had for years. It is just a bowl inside a bowl with a cover that has a hole in the top. It keeps the water from freezing down into the 20s, especially on a sunny day. I just bring it in at night, wash it and put out clean water in the morning. Heated birdbaths are another more hi-tech option.

    December’s freezing temperatures and strong winds make safe shelter essential for birds. They need places to roost, stay warm, and avoid predators. Encourage birds to stay in your yard by planting native trees, shrubs, and evergreens. Dense conifers like spruce, hemlock, and pine provide excellent cover from snow and wind. Additionally, leaving leaf piles or brush heaps in your yard creates ground-level shelter for birds like sparrows and juncos. Refrain from cutting back seedheads from coneflowers, coreopsis, goldenrods, sunflowers and native grasses to provide natural seed sources.

    Providing food, water, and shelter not only supports birds during the toughest months but also brings joy to your home. Watching vibrant cardinals against the snow or hearing the cheerful calls of chickadees can brighten even the coldest day. By creating a welcoming space for birds in your backyard, you contribute to their survival and get to enjoy the beauty of nature during winter’s quiet, cold days.

    For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.