Highlighting Connecticut’s Winter Cheer: Common Witch Hazel

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By Holly McNamara, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Branches of witch hazel with clusters of yellow, ribbon-like flowers against a clear blue sky and autumn foliage.
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Connecticut’s native species of Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, is a remarkably unique woody ornamental that can be found as a large shrub or small tree. It comes to the rescue this time of year as the leaves continue to drop and our surroundings become starved of color. Its foliage in autumn is a showstopping yellow.  

Hamamelis virginiana can grow between 10 and 20 feet tall and is often nearly just as wide as it is tall. In ideal conditions, some can even grow as large as 30 feet tall. It has a loose and somewhat open, irregular rounded shape and is very attractive in landscaping when used as hedge rows, woodland edge planting, or along a pond or river. It’s the last plant to come into bloom each year in the Northeast, blooming from October to December. The bloom coincides with its flashy fall foliage, making it one of the most eye-catching specimens of the winter landscape.  

The blooms are bright yellow with spidery, ribbon-like petals and have a pleasant citrusy fragrance. They are clustered tightly around the branches, and the petals curl up protectively during cold spells. A few cut branches in a vase will be sure to perfume and brighten up your home during the dreary winter months. Its late flowers attract certain species of flies, bees, gnats, and cold-tolerant moths. These insects are a food source for native songbirds such as kinglets, chickadees, and titmice.  

The medicinal qualities of the Common Witch Hazel are world renowned and have been utilized for centuries. Its anti-inflammatory properties serve as a soothing remedy for bruises, itches, sunburns, acne, and small wounds. In fact, Common Witch Hazel extract is one of the only medicinal plants approved by the FDA as a nonprescription drug. Always consult with a medical professional before incorporating the use of medicinal plants. It's worth noting that there have been several Witch Hazel processing plants in Connecticut, starting in the 19th Century. To this day, most of the world’s Witch Hazel extracts are still produced in East Hampton, Connecticut. 

Consider planting a Common Witch Hazel or two in your yard, mixed with hollies, viburnums, and dogwoods for some late-season cheer. Common Witch Hazel will grow in a variety of conditions, from moist to dry, and shaded to sunny. Flowers are most abundant when planted in full sun. It prefers acidic, nutrient-rich, well-draining soil. It’s quite hardy, growing in zones 4 through 8, and has very little trouble with pests or diseases. After establishment, they are virtually care-free. The only maintenance of note is periodic pruning to remove suckers if a controlled shape is desired. 

Although it is a slow growing plant, it is worth the wait when it bursts into bloom. With so much going for it, this is a plant that deserves greater consideration for use in ornamental landscapes and yards. 

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 29, 2025

Road Salt and Your Soil

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By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

When I was a graduate student from Nepal living in New Haven from 2012 to 2014, I kept noticing the same winter aftereffect across town. Along busy streets, the first foot of lawn by the pavement turned yellow and matted, and the road-facing sides of yews and hollies burned while the yard sides looked fine. Coming from a place that does not spread salt each winter, it felt backward. We made the road safer, but the plants and soil paid the price. At UConn’s Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab, we hear versions of this every spring. People send soil from a strip along the road or from a bed near the driveway and say that spot never greens up like the rest.  

You have also likely noticed the symptoms. Fine particles form a crust on the soil surface where water evaporates. Turf browns right at the pavement edge. Buds on the roadside of a shrub fail to break. Evergreens brown on the street side when traffic spray carries salty water, while the interior needles stay green. Vegetable beds that sit too close to plow piles can exhibit poor emergence, tip burn, or slow growth, even when the rest of the garden appears fine.  

What road salt does to soil 

Sodium chloride (rock salt) is the most widely used deicer. Once it dissolves, it separates into sodium (Na⁺) and chloride (Cl⁻). Chloride is highly mobile. It moves with meltwater, so in a wet spring, it can leach through the soil and, where conditions allow, reach groundwater, affecting well water quality. 

Sodium changes how soil behaves. In healthy soil, calcium and magnesium sit on exchange sites; repeated sodium inputs displace them, sealing the surface, reducing infiltration, and making the soil feel tighter right where plants already struggle. Sodium also competes with potassium uptake, so salt-burned spots can look nutrient-deficient even when tests show adequate levels. 

Alternatives to sodium chloride are often less harsh but cost more. Magnesium chloride and calcium chloride melt at lower temperatures but still add chloride and can injure plants and corrode concrete and metal. Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) is chloride-free and generally gentler, yet it’s pricier and harder to find. 

Lab testing and management options 

If you inform the lab that the sample is from a salt-affected area (such as a roadside, plow pile, or splash zone), they will interpret the numbers with that history in mind and, if necessary, use the appropriate salinity method for your sample. 

  1. Soil pH and texture (and organic matter). Sandy roadside fill flushes salts quickly but is more susceptible to damage due to its low buffering capacity. Heavier soils with more organic matter hold up better but can crust at the surface after repeated salting. For optimal plant health and reduced salt uptake, aim for a pH of approximately 6.5–7.0; your report will include a lime rate if your pH is below this range.
  2. Soluble salts / electrical conductivity (EC). EC shows how salty the root zone was when you sampled. It is most informative right after winter or snowmelt, when salts are near the surface. For mineral soils, labs typically measure EC from a simple soil–water extract. 

    Dense green shrub with numerous small, bright red berries growing along its branches, situated against a brick and white wall in a landscaped area.
    Plants like the Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) may be able to stand up to some salt exposure in the landscape. Some varieties may be more resistant than others. (Photo by H. Zidack)

    Start with prevention. Before winter, top-dress the first 1–2 feet along the road with a thin layer of compost to improve structure and exchange capacity. Keep that strip covered, overseed thin turf, or use a salt-tolerant edge, and ask the plow operator to place piles where meltwater drains to the street or to vegetation that isn’t over your well line. Where meltwater goes matters as much as how much salt you use. 

    After winter, fix what the season left behind. If the roadside sample shows elevated EC, lightly loosen any compacted or crusted soil so that water can infiltrate. Then, leach the area with two or three deep soakings a few days apart to push salts below the main root zone. If a hedge or shrub burns on the roadside year after year, consider moving it back or replacing the front row with more salt-tolerant plants. 

    For chronic hotspots, shift from one-time flushing to long-term protection: use less deicer, keep piles away from beds and wells, maintain dense groundcover in the first foot along pavement, and in harsh exposures, consider stone mulch plus seasonal compost topdressing to help the soil rebound. 

    If your well water tastes salty, check the state’s road-salt guidance and contact your town. When the damage is limited to curb strips or driveway beds, soil testing and better winter practices usually solve it.  

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 23, 2025

    Winterize your Garden Gear Before It’s Too Late!

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    By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Outdoor water spigot with attached green hose and rust around the base on concrete.
    Y Connectors like this should be removed and stored inside to keep the plastic from cracking in the winter. Photo by H. Zidack

    It’s already November! It doesn’t seem like that long ago when we were giving advice about seeding lawns and watering in new fall plantings. Now that the time has changed, the days feel shorter, and the nights are getting colder, it’s important to remember to take the time to properly store your garden equipment and accessories before locking up the shed for the season.

    Freezing temperatures are on the way fast. Drain and roll up any hoses to remove tripping hazards from the landscape. Store them inside a garage or shed to keep them out of the elements and lengthen their lifespan of use in the garden. Make sure that your outdoor water systems are properly winterized. Whether that means flushing your irrigation system, or simply shutting off your outside water, don’t forget this important step to protect your pipes! Once lines are turned off, open external valves to relieve any remaining pressure.

    Water can not only wreak havoc on pipes but many garden accessories, too. A glass rain gauge left outside can and will freeze and shatter outdoors. Ceramics like pottery and bird baths are susceptible to cracking, so store them either in the shed or upside down in a sheltered area. Stash your garden gnomes, garden flags and solar pathway lights to protect them from fading and damage. Brittle cold, freezing water, and a careless throw of the snow shovel could spell disaster for garden décor left out in the open.

    Inside the shed, take a quick inventory. Leftover seed or bagged mulch could be rodent attractants. Seeds should be stored in areas safe from extreme temperatures to preserve germination rates. Bird seed should be stored in animal proof containers. Chemical products like pesticides and fertilizers may be adversely affected by temperature fluctuations and freezing. They could also make a real mess if a water-based or pressurized solution were to burst. Products leftover from the growing season should be evaluated and moved into a space safe from freezing temperatures. Product labels or manufacturers will have storage and disposal information to help you make the best decision about what to do with your garden chemicals at the end of the season.

    Close-up of a rusty metal latch with a padlock on a weathered gray wooden door.
    Before you lock up the shed for the winter, remember to winterize! Photo by H. Zidack

    Winter will be a great time to thoroughly clean, repair, and sharpen tools. Store them somewhere that is easy to get to later so you can make sure your tools are fresh for the new season! If you have to do the seasonal shed shuffle, this is also a great time to rotate the lawn mower and snow thrower to prepare for the first storms of the season.

    Speaking of your gas-powered equipment, check your owner’s manuals for winterizing recommendations and instructions to help maintain the life and quality of your equipment. You may need specific maintenance before long term storage.  Contact a professional for any maintenance tasks that you do not feel confident performing on your own.

    If you’re running out of space in the shed and garage, consider covering lawn furniture with UV and mildew resistant covers. Take down awning covers and temporary structures. I, myself, have fallen victim to the false sense of security of a mild winter, only to be devastated by the collapse of my garden tent in the first, albeit belated, heavy snow.

    While all of this seems like common sense, the mad dash from here to the holidays will have many of us pulled in different directions. Our equipment, tools, and garden infrastructure are some of the biggest investments we put into our gardens. Hopefully this short checklist will help you knock out those last few chores that come with maintaining a four season New England garden.

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 8, 2025

    Chestnuts: A Tasty Thanksgiving Treat

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    By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center 

    Seven brown chestnuts resting on two yellow autumn leaves on a wooden surface
    Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    With Thanksgiving approaching, many of us will be sitting down to hearty feasts with family and friends. Time-tested recipes on worn index cards or heavily thumbed cookbooks are combed through/uncovered. Many of us gardeners pick a few new plants for our gardens each year, so why not try a new plant on the dinner table? Chestnuts were reputedly served at the first Thanksgiving and thanks to dedicated breeding programs may be available locally today.  

    It’s hard to imagine that a little over 125 years ago there were probably 4 billion American chestnuts (Castanea dentata) spread out from southern Maine to northern Georgia. They were an important food source for both indigenous people as well as wildlife. Early European settlers found their rot resistant wood useful for many building purposes.  

    Unfortunately, a disease (Cryphonectria parasitica), known as chestnut blight, was unintentionally introduced in 1876 on imported Japanese chestnuts (C. crenata). These were sold via mail order throughout the eastern U.S., and our native American chestnuts soon became infected. This fungus spreads by windblown spores. Signs of infection include a reddish-orange ‘rash’ on the affected bark and as it reproduces, an orangey substance oozes from pores in the bark. Cankers form and eventually the plant can no longer internally transport water and nutrients. Chestnut blight kills the parent tree but not the roots so even to this day, you are able to find sprouts growing from chestnut roots. As the sprouts develop, they too will be killed back by the blight so while the tree is kept alive, American chestnuts are considered functionally extinct, but all is not lost.  

    Fortunately, both researchers and chestnut lovers have been working pretty much for the past 100 years on developing varieties resistant to chestnut blight. Breeding work has been done in many locations but the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station began their program in the early 1900s and it is the only program that has continued uninterrupted to this day. Presently this CAES program is led by Forest Pathologist and Ecologist, Dr. Susanna Kerio.   

    Various chestnut species including American, Chinese Japanese and European have been crossed, backcrossed, planted, evaluated, culled and selected by researchers and enthusiasts all over the eastern U.S. As one can imagine, it takes more time to evaluate a tree’s characteristics than say, an annual plant like a tomato.    

    Organizations like The American Chestnut Foundation started in 1982 have been championing the search. According to Deni Ranguelova, the New England Regional Science Coordinator, the goal is to develop blight resistant chestnuts and restore this magnificent tree to its native range. Members of this organization have the opportunity to obtain straight species or hybrid seed to try their hand at growing chestnuts and add observations to the chestnut knowledge base.   

    Why all this work on chestnuts? Well for one, they are deliciously mild and sweet. They are low in calories and high in fiber. Chestnuts are a good source of potassium and other nutrients. Eat them freshly roasted (just like in the song!), in holiday stuffings, soups, in main dishes and glazed. To cook them, they do need to be scored whether oven roasted, boiled, steamed or microwaved to keep them from bursting. Lots of instructions, recipes and videos can be found online.   

    Second, plants are productive. In fact, it was estimated that before their demise that a mature American chestnut may be able to produce 6000 nuts! They can serve as a food source to both people and wildlife as researchers and enthusiasts create blight resistant strains to plant in our natural areas or in commercial orchards.  

    Aside from being a member of The American Chestnut Foundation and obtaining seed, one can order chestnut seedlings from several online nurseries. Keep in mind that chestnuts do best in a sunny area with well-drained soil. Root rots can occur in poorly drained areas. Plants are being bred to be straight and tall for timber, or shorter and wider for nut production. Make sure you have enough space for a mature chestnut tree, or most likely 2 trees as chestnuts need another plant for cross pollination.  

    Even if a chestnut tree is not in your future, do try some chestnut dishes at your Thanksgiving table. They may start a new tradition.  

    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

    This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 15, 2025

    Bugs, Supermoons, Oaks & Other November News

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    November 2025

    “Even if something is left undone, everyone must take time to sit still and watch the leaves turn.”

    —  Elizabeth Lawrence

    Who's Buggin You?

    multi-colored Asian ladybeetle on a flower

    Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Stink bug

    Photo by David R. Lance, USDA APHIS PPQ, Bugwood.org

    You may find yourself with an abundance of Asian Lady Beetles and Brown Marmorated stink bugs in your home as the weather cools down. There are many ways to keep these pests at bay over the winter months:  

    • Use weather stripping or caulking to prevent them from entering through cracks in doors or windows 
    • Remove them with a vacuum and immediately dispose of the contents to prevent them from returning.  
    • They dislike strong smells. Place cloves, citronella candles, bay leaves near windows or doors to repel them. Similarly, you can make a spray by mixing water with a few drops of spearmint, peppermint, lavender, or lemongrass essential oil and spray it around entry points.    
    • Plant or place chrysanthemums around your home, as they have a natural ladybug-repelling chemical 
    • Scrub areas where the insects congregate with soapy water or vinegar to get rid of their pheromone trails, which could attract more insects.  

    Supermoons

    A supermoon in the night sky
    Photo by Sean Flynn/UConn Photo

    With our gardens cleaned up, it's time to embrace other natural wonders. On Wednesday November 5, we will see the second of four consecutive supermoons! This November supermoon will appear 7.9% larger than what we see in the sky on an average night. It is expected to be the largest and brightest of 2025.

    A great place to view the supermoons in Storrs is from the top of the Horsebarn Hill pasture at UConn. The moon will begin to rise in the east around sunset.

    Identifying Oaks by Their Leaves & Acorns

    Two acorns attached to an oak branch
    Turkey oak leaves and acorns. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    All oaks belong to the genus Quercus and belong to one of two groups- white oaks or red oaks.
    The white oak group has leaves with seven to nine rounded lobes and are a deep green to blue-green with pale green leaf undersides. Leaves are widest in the middle.

    The red oak group has leaf lobes with bristled tips, and some have deeply cut sinuses and very narrow leaf bases.

    Acorns of the white oak group mature in a single year, while the acorns of the red oak group mature in two years. Fall is a perfect time to identify our native oaks as acorns are present and leaves are still on the trees.

    Native Plant: Sourwood

    A tree turning red against a brick building
    A Sourwood tree in South Windsor, CT. Photo by Pamm Cooper,
    UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Sourwood, Oxydendrum arboreum, is a small to medium tree that is native to eastern and southern U.S. Small, bell-like flowers on large downward flowing panicles appear in summer and are very attractive to bees. The dry, creamy to silver fruit capsules are a striking contrast to the red fall foliage.

    Word from the WiSE

    Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

    When the Worlds of Wine and WiSE Collide!

    This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology brings you a word on soils and wine from one of our students currently studying abroad in Italy:

    What does soil science have to do with wine? Well, everything! The same as other plants, grapes prefer certain climates, soil types, and nutrient levels. Additives to wine can cover up these imbalances in the ground. The real magic is when a farmer can monitor the terroir, all the natural environmental factors affecting a wine, just right to display the true farm-to-table taste.

    Depending on the climate of the vineyard, different soil types will be beneficial. What you would consider necessary for other plants, like well-draining soil or adequate plant hydration, may be the opposite for a vineyard. This is because sometimes, in the case of grapes, it is good to stress them appropriately to improve the flavor concentration.

    Soil fertility refers to the well-balanced mix of nutrients in the ground. For grape vines, it's very important to ensure that there is just enough of vital nutrients, since too much nutrition would encourage overvigorous growth, creating a diluted flavor.

    So next time you drink your favorite wine, remember how well balanced the soil had to be to get that perfect glass!

    By Ella May, Plant Science Undergraduate Student

    Weather Outlook

    A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

        Temperature map

    Precipitation Outlook

     

    Upcoming Events and Things to Do

               

              Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                        2025 UConn Native Plants and Pollinators Conference

                        UConn Native Plants & Polinators Conference November 13, 2025 Storrs CTInformation & Registration

                        Join Us at Upcoming Talks

                        Good Bug/Bad Bug with Pamm Cooper
                        November 3, 2025 - 11:00 AM
                        Hosted by the Old Saybrook Garden Club
                        Grace Episcopal Church, 336 Main Street, Old Saybrook CT

                        Lichens and Slime Molds of Connecticut with Pamm Cooper
                        November 10, 2025 - 7:00 PM 
                        Hosted by the Manchester Garden Club
                        Assumption Church Hall, 27 Adams Street South, Manchester CT

                          Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products! 

                          Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets! As you plan your holiday feasts this season, consider buying local, CT grown products.

                          Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.

                           

                          November Gardening Tips

                            • Wait to spread winter mulch until after the ground has frozen. Mulching beforehand can delay dormancy and makes a good home for voles. Once the ground has frozen (but before it snows), mulch fall planted perennials by placing 3 to 5 inches of pine needles, straw, chopped leaves around them
                            • Finish the cleanup of the vegetable garden or beds, removing all plant debris
                            • Cut back perennials that were covered in powdery mildew during the summer. Cut stalks to the ground and dispose of them
                            • Continue to thoroughly water trees, shrubs, planting beds, lawn areas and recently planted evergreens until a hard frost. Plants should go into the winter well-watered
                            • Beets, parsnips, and carrots can be covered with a thick layer of straw or leaves and left in the ground for harvest, as needed, during the winter. This may not be an option in areas with heavy vole populations
                            • Keep mowing your lawn as long as the grass is growing. Meadow voles and field mice will damage turf and nearby trees and shrubs if they have long grass for food and cover
                            • Remove any mummified remaining fruits from trees, rake up and dispose of old leaves
                            • Pull stakes and plant supports. Clean them with a 10% bleach solution before storing for the winter
                            • Shut off and drain outside faucets
                            • Consider providing sunflower hearts instead of whole seeds. It will provide a better source of calories for the birds and eliminates hull waste beneath the feeder
                            • Clay and ceramic pots can crack over the winter if they fill with rain or melted snow that subsequently freezes and expands. Empty pots and place upside down under a tarp or store them in a shed or the garage

                            This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                            Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Holly McNamara, Ella May, Emily Leahy, Dr. Nick Goltz

                            Office Closures in November 2025

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                            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center will have a brief change in our regular schedule on the following dates in November. Hours on the listed dates will be as follows:

                            • November 7th: Office closed in the morning. Due to high traffic on campus from a student event, we cannot guarantee parking for our walk-in clients. Please plan to visit at another time.
                            • November 11th: Office Closed – Veterans Day
                            • November 13th & 14th: Office Closed. Sample drop-off box still active.
                            • November 26th: Office Closed for walk-ins. Email/Phone support still available. Please plan walk in visits after December 1st.
                            • November 27th & November 28th: Office Closed – Thanksgiving

                            Our office will run on regularly scheduled business hours on all other business days during the month.

                            The UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab will be closed November 7th through November 11th and November 27th & 28th. 

                            Please plan your visits accordingly and thank you for your understanding!

                            Your questions are important to us! Please continue to send your questions to ladybug@uconn.edu or call us and leave a voicemail at 860-486-6271.

                            You Are the Sunshine of My Life

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                            By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

                            Small potted plants inside a clear plastic dome under bright pink LED grow lights.
                            The pink/purple light caused from a combination of red and blue LEDs are great for growing these Cissus discolor cuttings, but it does not help humans to see their true colors (photo by M. Lisy).

                            This old song seemed like the perfect title for talking about artificial lights for houseplants.  Even if there are windows in a room, the amount of light is very low.  Fortunately, there are relatively cheap LED options available.  Light is made up of the different colors, or wavelengths, of the visible spectrum – Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.  A plant’s pigments capture light energy and use it to make food.  Chlorophyll production peaks in the red and blue spectrums, but accessory pigments help plants capture additional wavelengths of light.  As such, there are optimal wavelengths of light that will better support plant growth.  This is known as Photosynthetically Active Radiation, or PAR.  We measure PAR by using the Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, or PPFD.  This measures the amount of photons of light in the correct range hitting a specific area, and is measured in micromoles per square meter per second (µmol/m2/s).  A PAR meter is an expensive way to measure how much usable light is available for your plants.   

                            LED specialty lamps that have a good spectral output (PAR) are easily acquired.  I would caution the buyer to read the reviews to help judge the quality.  Good lights will generally include some description of PAR and/or PPFD.  Light quickly diminishes with distance, as it essentially becomes less concentrated.  Look in the product information for how close the plant should be to the light for maximum effectiveness.  Generally, keep the plant 12-18 inches away from the light source.  If it is too close, or the light is too bright, plants can be burned, drop leaves, or become spotted.  A cheaper option is to use existing light fixtures and replace the bulbs with either full spectrum or plant grow bulbs.  The ideal plant grow bulbs look pink, as they have red and blue LEDs.  Full spectrum bulbs tend to have a better mix of wavelengths to make the light appear more natural to us, but still have good PAR.  CRI, or Color Rendering Index is a measure of a light’s ability to accurately show colors compared to natural light.  The closer to 100, the better the light’s appearance.   

                            We can also judge a bulb by “color temperature” reported with a Kelvin number.  For example, a 2700K bulb is commonly referred to as a warm white.  This is reminiscent of the light given off by a traditional incandescent bulb, and shows heavier output in the red end of the spectrum.  A 6000K bulb would be called a “daylight” bulb, and has a heavier output in the blue end of the spectrum.   

                            Many people confuse quality of light with brightness, which is measured in lumens.  Light can be very bright, but of poor quality.  Too bright, and it may burn the plants.  Also, buying a light that throws out a lot of green light does not do much, even if it has a high output (lumens).   Lastly, Watts are used as a measure of energy consumption.  While it is true that higher wattage may mean a greater output of light energy, the efficiency of LEDs means that a lot less watts are needed to put out the same number of lumens as compared to an incandescent bulb. 

                            So, then, this begs the question: What light is best for growing plants?  To answer, I am going to assume that the plants are going to be displayed in the living area and viewed by people regularly.  In this case, I would try and find a 5000K bulb with a CRI close 97 or 98, and a PPFD rating that matched the requirement of my plants for the given distance from the light fixture. 

                            The following is a quick list of what is useful and what is not useful as a metric for plant growth:

                            PAR - Photosynthetically Active Radiation. It is the ideal measurement for plant growth.

                            PPFD - Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density. It is a useful metric to judge output at a particular distance from the fixture.

                            Kelvin - Kelvin refers to “color temperature” – lower number more red (ex. 2700), higher number more blue (ex 6500). It is not detailed enough as a metric for plant growth.

                            CRI - Color Rendering Index. It is useful for how true-to-life the plants will look.

                            Lumens - A unit to measure brightness. It is not particularly useful as a metric for plant growth.

                            Watts - How much energy is used to run the bulb/fixture. It’s not useful as a metric for plant growth, but lower wattage costs less to run equipment.

                            Warm vs Cool - Warm indicates the red end of the spectrum while cool indicates the blue end of the spectrum.  See Kelvin. It is not detailed enough as a metric for plant growth.

                            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

                            This article was published in the Hartford Courant November 1, 2025

                            Don’t Let Dry Soil Follow Your Plants Into Winter!

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                            By Holly McNamara, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                            This year, Connecticut’s notably dry summer conditions have continued into fall. According to the U.S. Drought Monitor, all counties are abnormally dry for this time of year, and some are even considered to be in a moderate drought. Thus, many trees, shrubs, and perennials are heading into winter low on moisture. These conditions combined with the dry air, low precipitation, and fluctuating temperatures characteristic of Connecticut winters can lead to plant damage if no supplemental water is provided. Many of your plants will benefit from a deep final soak before the ground freezes.

                            Fall drought stress often doesn’t show up until spring, or even the following summer.Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring, using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened or die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Browning evergreens, delayed leaf-out, and sudden dieback are common signs of plants that went into winter too dry.

                            Moist soil is so important in the fall and winter months because it provides insulation to the roots. It may seem counter-intuitive, but properly hydrated soil does a much better job at protecting roots from freezing temperatures than dry soil. Root damage occurs for this reason when plants do not receive enough late-season moisture.

                            Woody plants with shallow root systems require the most supplemental water during extended dry periods in the fall and winter. Trees in this category include maples, birches, willows, and dogwoods. This category also includes perennials, and shrubs like hydrangeas, boxwoods, and azaleas. These plants benefit from mulch to further conserve soil moisture and buffer the roots from temperature swings. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches away from the trunk all the way to the outermost reach of its branches in a doughnut shape.

                            Evergreen needles up close
                            Evergreens need sufficient water in dry falls to help prevent winter injury. Photo by Heather Zidack

                            Evergreens also benefit from fall and winter watering because they do not go dormant in the winter. Evergreens of any age are still actively respiring during the coldest months of the year and will continuously lose water through their needles. If they go into the winter with dry soil, they are more likely to have a difficult spring recovery. This is especially true for those in open or windy areas.

                            Only water when daytime temperatures are above 40°F, ideally in the late morning or early afternoon so the water can soak in before possible freezing at night. Feel the soil at a depth of 4 to 6 inches to ensure that supplemental water is necessary. Soil should be consistently moist, but not oversaturated or muddy. Stop supplemental watering after the ground freezes because plants cannot absorb water through frozen soil. To water, use a soaker hose to provide a slow stream of water that can penetrate deeper into the soil with limited runoff. If your hose is already stored away for the winter, and your tree or shrub is small, consider drilling a 1/8-inch hole at the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and filling that with water for a slow, steady stream. If dry weather continues into the winter and there’s little snow cover, additional watering once or twice a month may be needed until the soil hardens.

                            A final round of watering now can prevent root injury that won’t be visible until much later. Evergreens, deciduous trees, and other landscape plantings will head into winter stronger with a little extra attention this month. Giving the soil one last watering before it freezes is one of the simplest ways to protect your landscape from winter stress.

                            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

                            This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 25, 2025

                            Why is My Lilac Blooming in the Fall?

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                            By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                            Bumblebees on fall blooming lilacs
                            Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                            Spring-blooming woody plants like lilacs (especially the old, grafted varieties), ornamental cherries, forsythia, crabapples, azaleas and some magnolias set their flower buds for the following year in early summer shortly after flowering.  Usually, flower buds are triggered to bloom by environmental conditions which normally occur after an extended fall and winter cold period, followed by longer days and warming temperatures in spring. It is not typical for these plants to have a second bloom in the fall, but environmental conditions sometimes trigger premature flowering in the fall. Some plants may have only a few flowers rebloom, while other plants may have more flowers open in the fall.  

                            Some of the reasons for this out of season bloom are extended summer heat and drought conditions where supplemental water is lacking.  Severe early defoliation, especially from certain fungal pathogens, can also contribute to reblooming. The past two springs have been very wet and diseases such as anthracnose and Pseudocercospora spp. leaf spot may have caused leaves to brown, shrivel and drop early. This stresses the shrub and contributes to out of sync rebloom if other conditions are right. Good sanitation practices such as cleaning up infected leaves will be helpful in reducing fungal infections the following year. 

                            If a plant is healthy and relatively unstressed, the normal seasonal move to cooler weather triggers dormancy. Plants that are deciduous will drop leaves as daylight length and temperature both decrease. Next year’s leaf and flower buds will also remain in a dormant state. Flowering and leafing out will be triggered by increasing daylight and air temperatures the next spring. 

                            Lilac flowers opening in October
                            Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                            If certain woody plants have been stressed during the growing season, however, the change to cooler weather followed by some warmer weather can trigger some of the flower buds to open prematurely. This false dormancy especially affects flower buds near the tops of old-style lilacs where it is sunnier and warmer. Ornamental cherries may show sporadic flowering all over the tree where there is a southern exposure.  

                            While fall reblooming of ornamental trees and shrubs can lead to a disappointing floral display the following spring, it is not harmful to the plant. After a less showy spring bloom period, flower buds will be produced normally. If stressful conditions caused by environmental conditions, insect pests or fungal pathogens are minimal, then a second bloom in autumn is unlikely to occur. Gardeners and landscapers can only do so much, and while the weather is out of our control, making sure plants are maintained properly to avoid stress during the summer will go a long way in helping them remain as healthy as possible.  

                            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

                            This article was published in the Hartford Courant October 18, 2025

                            We Asked Gardening Pros If You Should Rake Leaves From Garden Beds—And They All Agreed

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                            We Asked Gardening Pros If You Should Rake Leaves From Garden Beds—And They All Agreed

                            The Spruce – Heather Zidack and other professionals give their insight on raking leaves from your garden beds.