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Sweet fern, Comptonia peregrina, is a native shrub commonly found in acidic, dry, sandy soils. It is usually found in full sun but also can tolerate partial shade.
Look for it on slopes, roadsides, and disturbed sites such as power line rights-of-ways. Its fernlike leaves are aromatic when crushed. It flowers as early as March as it begins to leaf out. It is superb as a soil stabilizer on sandy slopes and where sandy soils support little else. It can form colonies over time via strong rhizomes.
This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.
The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!
When we think of climate solutions in Connecticut, our minds usually go to big things such as offshore wind, public transit, and forests. We rarely think about our lawns. But soil science suggests that the roughly 40 to 50 million acres of lawn and managed turfgrass in the United States represent a large and often-overlooked opportunity to help keep carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere, especially when those landscapes are well managed. Although forests store far more carbon overall in wood and soil, lawns can still play a supporting role by storing carbon mostly belowground, as long as maintenance inputs like fertilizer, mowing fuel, and irrigation are kept in check. In other words, done well lawns can store carbon in soil; done poorly, those same inputs can wipe out the gains and even make a lawn a net source of emissions.
Your lawn and garden are not just aesthetic choices. They are living systems. Through photosynthesis, grass and other plants pull carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and turn it into sugars. Those sugars are basically “carbon packages” the plant uses to grow. Some of that carbon ends up in leaves, stems, and flowers, and some is sent belowground to build roots and feed soil microorganisms.
As roots and microorganisms grow, die back, and regrow, they add carbon-rich material to the soil. That material becomes part of the soil’s organic matter. In the Northeast, well-managed turfgrass can store carbon at meaningful rates, with published estimates often ranging from a few hundred to more than a thousand pounds of carbon per acre per year.
That same organic matter also gives soil what many gardeners call the “sponge” effect. It helps the ground absorb water, hold moisture longer, and maintain better structure. That means less runoff during storms, better drought tolerance during dry periods, and a healthier root zone overall. Healthier, carbon-rich soil helps a lawn do more than stay green. It helps the landscape better withstand weather stress and keeps more water and nutrients where they belong.
The benefits of a lawn or garden depend heavily on how it is managed. Poor soil management can weaken plant growth, reduce biological activity, and limit the soil’s ability to store carbon over time. If we want the lawn to store more carbon and withstand weather extremes better, management matters. We can start with the following practical steps.
First, test your soil and apply only what the test calls for. Guesswork often leads to over-application of fertilizer, especially phosphorus and nitrogen. Excess phosphorus wastes money, can upset nutrient balance, and increases the risk of runoff into local waterways, where it can contribute to algae overgrowth. Excess nitrogen is also a concern because it can be lost to the air as greenhouse gases and to water through leaching and runoff, affecting groundwater and streams. A soil test helps you target nutrients and lime where they are actually needed, supporting healthier roots and the soil biology that helps build carbon-rich soil over time.
Second, address compaction. When soil is compressed by repeated foot traffic or heavy equipment, it loses pore space. That limits air movement, reduces water infiltration, restricts root growth, and weakens biological activity. Carbon storage does not stop altogether, but the soil becomes less effective at building and holding additional organic matter. In lawns, core aeration can help relieve compaction.
Third, keep the soil covered. Dense grass cover and recycled clippings help shield the soil, reduce erosion, buffer moisture swings, and support soil life. This also supports soil carbon by keeping roots growing and by reducing the loss of carbon-rich soil through erosion and rapid drying. The key is to maintain healthy turf and avoid practices that leave bare ground for long periods.
For Connecticut lawns, the real test is not just how green they look in a good week. It is how well they hold up through heavy rain, summer dry spells, and changing weather patterns. That resilience starts in the soil.
A healthy, carbon-rich soil is one of the best ways to make a lawn more resilient. By focusing on plant-appropriate pH, good soil structure, and science-based nutrient management, we do more than improve how a landscape looks. We make it better able to absorb water, support plant growth, and store more carbon over time.
Your lawn will not solve climate change on its own. But better soil management can make it healthier, more resilient, and modestly better at storing carbon. That is a practical win for landowners, for water quality, and for the broader environment.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
With a taste of spring earlier in the week, gardeners are itching to get back out there for a little bit of sunshine and horticultural therapy. Don’t let the forecast fool you, we still have a stretch of time before we can really do many of the gardening activities we love.
Interestingly, there is a magic number for gardeners to watch out for. 50°F is a significant temperature for when we, as gardeners, can start to act. However, this temperature, in various applications, needs to be monitored to ensure we’re doing the right activities at the right time.
The first thing we will look for in the spring is air temperature above 50°F during the day. Unfortunately, the couple of days we had last week weren’t enough to really set off the start whistles for us. Consistency is key. When we hit this consistent daytime temperature, we start to see more obvious signs of seasonal changes. With a sustained air temperature above 50°F during the day, we can start to do things like clean out our gardens. Many species of pollinators and beneficial insects will start to become active at these temperatures. While a more accurate tool, known as Growing Degree Days (GDD) can help you identify the specific needs of specific species of both plant and insect development, this rule of thumb gives us a guideline to start with. Remove thick, dense piles of wet and matted leaves, or consider gently fluffing them up with a rake. A one-to-two-inch layer can benefit our plants as a natural mulch, but dense piles should be relocated to compost or the edge of the wood line. If you encourage pollinator habitat, avoid shredding or mulching leaf material as an extra protective measure for any stragglers that may be slow to wake up.
Soil warms much slower than the ambient air temperature, so while it may feel comfortable to work outside, the soil may not be primed for activity. We commonly encourage gardeners to monitor for a soil temperature consistently above 50°F as another milestone. This guideline is found to be the baseline for germination rates of many warm-season plants, and sustained temperatures above this threshold are necessary to promote growth. Cool season annuals and perennials will have different soil temperature thresholds for germination and success. In addition, this is an ideal temperature range for many garden products like fertilizers and pre-emergent herbicides to be effective. As always, check the product label for specifics on temperature ranges, as different products and different species of plants all have different needs. While we get a daily forecast almost anywhere for air temperatures, soil can be a bit more challenging to track. Use tools like Cornell’s Fore Cast or similar resources to help track local soil temperatures.
The last big milestone in the spring comes when nighttime air temperatures consistently reach 50°F or higher. At this point many of our houseplants and tender annuals, including warm-season vegetables, can be planted in the garden or put out onto the patio without protection. This is the stage where we truly feel like spring has arrived and our gardening is in full swing.
When we have a typical season, these benchmarks tend to happen in order. Days get warmer, soil follows suit, and nighttime temperatures are the last to stabilize. However, occasionally, the seasons can throw us a curveball and these may not sync up exactly as planned. Always monitor them as separate markers for the best outcomes in your garden.
By watching these temperature thresholds as the season unfolds, we give our gardens the best possible start. These guidelines are a great place to start for the beginning gardener, and tools like the soil temperature map and growing degree days are there to help the advanced gardener fine tune their practice. Whatever your skill level, we’re here to help you grow!
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Growing plants from seed is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. In Connecticut, late winter is the time to start many cold-weather crops indoors, so they’re strong and ready to move outside after the last frost. Starting seeds requires a fair amount of attention, but you don’t need any special tools – this is an affordable project that anyone can tackle.
Start by choosing seeds from a New England or Connecticut–based company. Local seed companies offer varieties adapted to our shorter growing season and changing spring temperatures. One seed packet is usually enough for a 10- to 30-foot row. To determine when to start your seeds, use a calendar and the most up-to-date forecast for the last frost. Write the sowing date on each seed packet, then group packets with similar planting times together to stay organized.
You don’t need any fancy equipment to sow your seeds. All you need are containers with drainage holes and catch trays for excess water. Reuse items from around the house – Styrofoam cups, yogurt or cottage cheese containers, salad tubs, plastic takeout boxes, egg cartons – the list goes on! Before planting, wash containers with soap and water, then rinse with a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water to prevent disease.
Choose a commercial seed-starting mix that is loose and drains well. Garden soil is not recommended because it is not sterile and can introduce mold or disease. Fill containers to about one inch from the top with a moistened seed-starting mix. Level and gently firm the surface. If planting more than one type of seed in a container, make shallow rows and sow seeds evenly. If planting just one type, you can scatter them lightly across the surface. Make sure to label them immediately before or after sowing. Then, cover your seeds with a thin layer of vermiculite or seed-starting mix. Very tiny seeds should remain uncovered. Mist gently with water or set the container in a pan of warm water to moisten from below. Cover the container loosely with plastic wrap or a plastic bag to hold in moisture. You likely won’t need to water again until seeds germinate. Place trays in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Once seedlings emerge, remove the plastic and move them to a bright window with indirect light. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings, but don’t let the seedlings wilt. If needed, thin them out by snipping extras at the soil line with scissors. If they outgrow their containers, you can transplant them into individual pots once they develop one set of true leaves.
Seedlings must adjust gradually to outdoor conditions, a process called “hardening off.” Start by placing them outside in part shade, protected from wind, for about a week. Bring them in at night before temperatures drop. During the second week, slowly increase sun exposure. Start by leaving them outside in direct sunlight for an hour for the first day, and then increasing the amount of time each consecutive day. After this week, if no freezing temperatures are expected, plants can remain outside until transplanting. Hardening off is important in the seed sowing process: skipping this step can lead to sunburned, damaged leaves.
Choose a cloudy day to transplant your seedlings to reduce shock. Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Gently remove the plant from its container with a spoon, keeping as much soil around the roots as possible. Try not to grasp the plant by its stem; this can cause serious damage. Set it in the hole at the same depth it was growing in its container. Fill the hole gently, without packing the soil tightly around the roots.
Annual flowers like marigolds and zinnias are excellent for beginners. Check the seed packet to determine how many weeks are needed before transplanting outdoors. In late winter, gardeners can start artichokes, perennial herbs, chard, salad greens, onions, leeks and more. By late February/early March, sow cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and kale. Tomatoes and peppers can also be started indoors for transplanting later in spring. In New England, peas can be planted outdoors as soon as the soil is workable.
Starting seeds indoors may seem technical at first, but it’s simply a matter of timing, clean containers, good grow mix, and patience. With a little planning now, your garden will be off to a strong start when warm weather finally arrives.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
It's been a temperamental winter! With extreme cold and lots of snow, many have asked us what to expect for their garden plants and even pest populations.
Snow acts as nature's insulation during the winter. A heavy layer of snow will help keep temperatures at and below the soil level stable when compared to air temperatures like the blustery cold we've experienced this winter. Plant root zones are quite content with both a consistent temperature, and lots of available water about to saturate their root systems with the snow melting and forecasted rain.
The bigger risk to plants is freezing and thawing. Snow weighing down branches can also lead to physical damage in the form of broken branches. As the snow thaws and refreezes, ice crystals surrounding evergreen needles can cause damage as well. In the more mild winters we've observed in previous years, freeze and thaw cycles lead to frost heaving, which leaves plant roots susceptible to winter damage.
Piles of snow mixed with de-icing salts can cause trouble if on or near ornamental plants. Be sure to flush these areas with clean water in the spring to help reduce salinity in the soil.
Most windowsills in Connecticut are not bright enough or warm enough in late winter for starting seeds indoors.
For sturdy seedlings, you’ll want to choose bright, full‑spectrum lights. Use LED or fluorescent fixtures rather than incandescent bulbs and keep them six to eight inches above the seedlings. Raise the lights as seedlings grow to prevent burning the leaves or leggy growth. Aim for 14 to 16 hours of light per day and use a timer, so seedlings get consistent lighting each day.
With snow covered gardens and more wintry weather on the way, many of us can’t resist the temptation to purchase potted hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, primroses and other delightful spring blooming plants to bring some early color and fragrance to our homes. It was especially difficult to leave the Connecticut Flower and Garden Show last week without an armload of plants forced into bloom.
To enjoy your plants to the fullest, here are some tips on caring for them. First realize that these plants were ‘forced’ into bloom at an earlier time than they would on their own. Growers manipulate the growing conditions of the plants by regulating temperature, light and moisture. This does stress plants somewhat so depending on the type of bulb, some may or may not bloom again.
If you have not purchased any pots of forced bulbs yet but are planning to, select ones that are still budded or ones where just a few flowers have opened. This will ensure a longer bloom period for you to enjoy. If temperatures are below 40 F, it is best to bag or wrap the plant in the store to keep the blossoms and foliage from cold injury and get the plants home as soon as possible. Leaving them in an unheated car in frigid temperatures is not a good idea.
Whether you’ve chosen to bring home spring flowering bulbs, like hyacinths, or a hardy perennial, like primroses, they pretty much all have similar requirements as houseplants. All these plants appreciate being kept in cool temperatures with between 50 and 60 F being optimum and 70 F probably being the upper limit. Warmer temperatures will cause plant growth and flowering to speed up so your blooms won’t last as long.
Bright indirect light for 6 to 8 hours of the day will keep your plants growing longer. Lately with the cloudy weather and limited sunshine, most of us can keep plants in a south window this time of year as the sun’s light is less intense and also, sparser than we would hope. Usually, the temperatures near windows are much cooler than other areas of the house.
All of these plants, as well as most other houseplants, grow best when kept moderately moist. Avoid overwatering or having pots sit in water as that can lead to root rots. I’ve noticed growers shying away from peat based potting mixes that were more moisture retentive. So, check plants every other day at first to see when they are in need of watering. While the plastic or foil pot wraps might make your selection look more appealing, they often do not have drainage holes so if pots are overwatered, the excess water stays in the wrap and the roots remain saturated and prone to rot. I like to water these plants by taking them out of the wrap, bringing them to the sink and applying enough water so that it runs out the bottom for a half minute or so and then let them sit in the sink until excess water drains out. Then return to their wrap or better yet, a saucer where excess water can be easily seen and dumped.
As far as fertilizing goes, it depends on whether you want to keep these plants and set them out in your garden when warmer weather arrives or will they get relegated to the compost or trash heap. If you intend to plant them out, then fertilize them using a half strength houseplant fertilizer every other week. The reason being you want the green foliage to photosynthesize as much as possible before the plants go dormant. The food produced by this process will enable the bulbs to sprout and grow next year. Even if not planted out, perennials like primroses will bloom for a longer period of time inside if regularly fertilized.
I have found flowering bulbs, like hyacinths and daffodils, to come back pretty successfully when planted in the garden, while having little success with tulips, unless they are species tulips or some of the smaller Greigii varieties. If keeping bulbs for planting out, remove the flower stem after blooms have faded but keep watering foliage until it starts to fade and brown. Remove the dying leaves and then the pot can be moved to a cool, dimly lit spot and just kept barely moist until the soil can be worked in the spring.
For primroses, remove the flower stalks as blossoms fade. Depending on the species purchased, your plants may or may not be hardy outside. Hopefully the plant tag will mention hardiness zones or at least give you the species so you can look it up. Primroses can be kept as houseplants but they do require cool temperatures, bright indirect lighting and regular fertilizing and watering when forming buds and in bloom. In the garden, primroses sulk in hot weather often dying back until next spring when cooler temperatures prevail.
With a little care, flowering bulbs and other plants can liven up these dreary winter days. At least they let us know, spring is right around the corner.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Wait, Why the Heck Are People Putting Pennies in Their Houseplants’ Soil?
The Spruce – Heather Zidack educates readers on whether putting a penny in potting soil really keeps away pests and disease.
Bare root trees and shrubs, as the name suggests, are not sold in a pot or balled and burlapped. At the nursery bare root plants are grown in the ground, harvested as young plants, and sold without soil surrounding the roots. They are sold while the plant is dormant, usually in late winter or early spring and are best planted while they are still dormant or just before bud break. Historically, they have been used for agriculture or conservation plantings but they are also suitable for the home landscape. Bare root trees and shrubs are a great choice if you need a lot of plant material or are on a tight budget.
Consider using bare root trees and shrubs to provide structure in your garden, to create wildlife habitat, for erosion control, or to start your home orchard or tree farm. Additionally, bare root plants are perfect for planting a hedge because they are similar in size, establish quickly, and don’t require too much digging. They will take longer to fill in the hedge than containerized plants, but they will cost a lot less money. Many popular landscape trees and shrubs are available as bare root plants.
Choose a reputable nursery or grower, preferably one that is growing regionally adapted plants. In New England, choose a grower in the Northeastern United States. When choosing species to purchase, have planting goals in mind. These goals can be those previously mentioned or other goals like revegetating an area with native plants after removing invasive plants. As with any planting project, consider the right plant for the right place. Choose species that are suited to the growing conditions of the planting area. Consider sun exposure, soil characteristics, hardiness zone, plant size at maturity, and location of underground utilities.
Before purchasing bare root plants, have a plan with all the above considerations addressed. Unlike containerized plants, bare root plants have a very specific and narrow timeline for purchasing and planting. They are typically shipped in the early spring, around the time they should be planted.
To keep plants dormant before planting, they can be placed in the fridge or in an unheated garage or basement. They can be stored dormant in the original shipping package for no more than two weeks before planting. Mist the roots every few days so they do not dry out during cold storage.
Planting bare root plants is done in the early spring before buds open or late fall after the plant goes dormant but before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, they should not be planted too deep. The root flare, or transitional part of the plant between the roots and stem, should be level with the soil. Add a layer of mulch or compost but avoid piling mulch too high up the trunk. Water weekly, or more often under dry conditions, during the first year after planting. Protection from deer and rodents is important when planting young tender trees and shrubs. Use a tree tube or fencing to discourage browsing.
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
Valentine’s Day is one of the biggest holidays, next to Mother’s Day, in the floral industry. Whether you’re buying fresh cut flowers, or a potted plant for someone special, helping them keep those flowers looking their best can be part of the gift you give this year.
Start by selecting flowers that look healthy and vibrant. You want flowers with firm petals, with buds just starting to open or have just recently opened. Avoid flowers that are releasing pollen, are discolored, or have drooping foliage. Check the stems for rigidity and make sure that plant material is clean with no indications of mold or decay. When you purchase your flowers, many florists will give you packaging to help reduce their exposure to the extreme cold as you carry them to your car. This is an important step, so don’t skip it if you can! Avoiding large temperature fluctuations will keep your flowers fresh for longer.
When you get home with your flowers find a vase that is clean and free of debris. Always wash vases with warm, soapy water in between uses to prevent the transmission of bacteria and disease from one bouquet to the next. Add fresh, tepid water. Remove all plastic, rubber bands, and other packaging from your bouquet. Cut each flower stem at a 45-degree angle using hand pruners or snips. Using scissors, or knives that aren’t sharp may crush the vascular tissue and prevent the flowers from taking up water, leading to faster decline. Remove any leaves that would sit below the water line before placing stems into the vase.
If you have a bouquet of roses, take special care when you are preparing their stems. These flowers will live longer if you cut their stems under water, using the same 45-degree angle, and place them in your vase of water as quickly as possible. This extra step ensures that air bubbles don’t work their way into the vascular tissue and will keep your roses fresh for longer. When we see roses develop a “floppy neck,” this is most often the cause. While it is possible to revive your roses from this issue, it is best to try to avoid it altogether.
There are many anecdotes out there regarding additives to provide food and antimicrobial agents to the water to help your flowers last longer. Many of these anecdotes aren’t based in research. If your bouquet comes with a flower food packet, mix it as instructed and use it in your vase. However, if you don’t have one, don’t worry about adding anything. Instead, focus on ensuring that you are giving your flowers fresh, clean water.
Decay and microbial growth are two of the biggest reasons our cut flowers pass quickly. Many of the strategies mentioned above help to mitigate this concern, but it is important to keep a watchful eye. Besides washing your vase in between use, sanitize your flower snips or pruners in between uses as well and watch the water quality in your vase, replacing it every couple of days with fresh, cool, water. Always change the water if it appears murky or cloudy in the vase.
When changing your water, make a fresh cut 1-2 inches up the stem to ensure that the vascular system is staying open and clean of any debris or bacteria. If stems are starting to get mushy, cut high enough above the decay, or consider removing the stem entirely from the arrangement. Keep your flowers in a location that is bright but avoid direct sunlight, and keep them away from drafts, or entryways where large temperature fluctuations are likely. Lastly, know when to say goodbye and dispose of any flowers that are past bloom, or showing signs of decay. You may notice that you’ll need a smaller vase as you cut your stems shorter or remove flowers as they pass. A mason jar makes for a great display for those longest lasting flowers!
There’s no doubt that fresh flowers bring vibrancy and life into our homes during these blustery, winter months. Whether you’re buying a bouquet for yourself, or for someone special this Valentine’s day, keep a close eye on them and you’ll be sure to have long lasting blooms to enjoy!
The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.
