Author: Zidack, Heather

Planting Bare Root Trees and Shrubs

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By Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

A tractor with an orange front loader lifts a large wooden crate containing bundled bare-root trees from the back of a delivery truck near a wooded area.
A bundle of bare root apple trees. By Andrew Hoagland.

Bare root trees and shrubs, as the name suggests, are not sold in a pot or balled and burlapped. At the nursery bare root plants are grown in the ground, harvested as young plants, and sold without soil surrounding the roots. They are sold while the plant is dormant, usually in late winter or early spring and are best planted while they are still dormant or just before bud break. Historically, they have been used for agriculture or conservation plantings but they are also suitable for the home landscape. Bare root trees and shrubs are a great choice if you need a lot of plant material or are on a tight budget.  

Consider using bare root trees and shrubs to provide structure in your garden, to create wildlife habitat, for erosion control, or to start your home orchard or tree farm.  Additionally, bare root plants are perfect for planting a hedge because they are similar in size, establish quickly, and don’t require too much digging. They will take longer to fill in the hedge than containerized plants, but they will cost a lot less money. Many popular landscape trees and shrubs are available as bare root plants.  

Choose a reputable nursery or grower, preferably one that is growing regionally adapted plants. In New England, choose a grower in the Northeastern United States. When choosing species to purchase, have planting goals in mind. These goals can be those previously mentioned or other goals like revegetating an area with native plants after removing invasive plants. As with any planting project, consider the right plant for the right place. Choose species that are suited to the growing conditions of the planting area. Consider sun exposure, soil characteristics, hardiness zone, plant size at maturity, and location of underground utilities.  

Before purchasing bare root plants, have a plan with all the above considerations addressed. Unlike containerized plants, bare root plants have a very specific and narrow timeline for purchasing and planting. They are typically shipped in the early spring, around the time they should be planted.  

To keep plants dormant before planting, they can be placed in the fridge or in an unheated garage or basement. They can be stored dormant in the original shipping package for no more than two weeks before planting. Mist the roots every few days so they do not dry out during cold storage.  

Planting bare root plants is done in the early spring before buds open or late fall after the plant goes dormant but before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, they should not be planted too deep. The root flare, or transitional part of the plant between the roots and stem, should be level with the soil. Add a layer of mulch or compost but avoid piling mulch too high up the trunk. Water weekly, or more often under dry conditions, during the first year after planting. Protection from deer and rodents is important when planting young tender trees and shrubs. Use a tree tube or fencing to discourage browsing.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 21, 2026

Keeping Valentines Day Flowers Fresh

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Valentine’s Day is one of the biggest holidays, next to Mother’s Day, in the floral industry. Whether you’re buying fresh cut flowers, or a potted plant for someone special, helping them keep those flowers looking their best can be part of the gift you give this year.  

Pink, yellow, and purple Alstroemeria flowers arranged together in a small bouquet with green leaves.
Photo by H. Zidack

Start by selecting flowers that look healthy and vibrant. You want flowers with firm petals, with buds just starting to open or have just recently opened. Avoid flowers that are releasing pollen, are discolored, or have drooping foliage. Check the stems for rigidity and make sure that plant material is clean with no indications of mold or decay. When you purchase your flowers, many florists will give you packaging to help reduce their exposure to the extreme cold as you carry them to your car. This is an important step, so don’t skip it if you can! Avoiding large temperature fluctuations will keep your flowers fresh for longer.  

When you get home with your flowers find a vase that is clean and free of debris. Always wash vases with warm, soapy water in between uses to prevent the transmission of bacteria and disease from one bouquet to the next. Add fresh, tepid water. Remove all plastic, rubber bands, and other packaging from your bouquet. Cut each flower stem at a 45-degree angle using hand pruners or snips. Using scissors, or knives that aren’t sharp may crush the vascular tissue and prevent the flowers from taking up water, leading to faster decline. Remove any leaves that would sit below the water line before placing stems into the vase.  

If you have a bouquet of roses, take special care when you are preparing their stems. These flowers will live longer if you cut their stems under water, using the same 45-degree angle, and place them in your vase of water as quickly as possible. This extra step ensures that air bubbles don’t work their way into the vascular tissue and will keep your roses fresh for longer. When we see roses develop a “floppy neck,” this is most often the cause. While it is possible to revive your roses from this issue, it is best to try to avoid it altogether.  

There are many anecdotes out there regarding additives to provide food and antimicrobial agents to the water to help your flowers last longer. Many of these anecdotes aren’t based in research. If your bouquet comes with a flower food packet, mix it as instructed and use it in your vase. However, if you don’t have one, don’t worry about adding anything. Instead, focus on ensuring that you are giving your flowers fresh, clean water. 

Decay and microbial growth are two of the biggest reasons our cut flowers pass quickly. Many of the strategies mentioned above help to mitigate this concern, but it is important to keep a watchful eye. Besides washing your vase in between use, sanitize your flower snips or pruners in between uses as well and watch the water quality in your vase, replacing it every couple of days with fresh, cool, water. Always change the water if it appears murky or cloudy in the vase.  

When changing your water, make a fresh cut 1-2 inches up the stem to ensure that the vascular system is staying open and clean of any debris or bacteria. If stems are starting to get mushy, cut high enough above the decay, or consider removing the stem entirely from the arrangement. Keep your flowers in a location that is bright but avoid direct sunlight, and keep them away from drafts, or entryways where large temperature fluctuations are likely. Lastly, know when to say goodbye and dispose of any flowers that are past bloom, or showing signs of decay. You may notice that you’ll need a smaller vase as you cut your stems shorter or remove flowers as they pass. A mason jar makes for a great display for those longest lasting flowers!  

There’s no doubt that fresh flowers bring vibrancy and life into our homes during these blustery, winter months. Whether you’re buying a bouquet for yourself, or for someone special this Valentine’s day, keep a close eye on them and you’ll be sure to have long lasting blooms to enjoy!  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 15, 2026

Microplastics in Garden Soils: Should Homeowners Worry?

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By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

Colorful plastic fragments scattered across dark soil.
Photo by Avishesh Neupane

If you spread compost on your garden this year, there is a good chance you added a little plastic, too. Researchers around the world are now finding microplastics – tiny plastic fragments and fibers smaller than a grain of rice – in garden soils and compost products that look perfectly normal to the naked eye. In one recent study of commercial composts, every single one of the 11 products tested contained microplastics, with cleaner, eco-labeled brands still showing lower but measurable levels.

That raises a fair question for Connecticut homeowners: Should you worry about microplastics in your yard? The short answer is don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either. Microplastics are not a crisis that should send you ripping out your raised beds, but they are a good reason to be mindful about how plastic moves through our gardens and to be choosy about what we bring in.

Where are microplastics coming from?

Microplastics in garden soil mostly come from everyday sources. Composts and organic fertilizers made from mixed municipal waste or sewage sludge can carry plastic fragments and fibers, and biosolid-based fertilizers have been identified as a major pathway for microplastics into farm and lawn soils. Plastic-coated, slow-release fertilizers can contribute microplastics as their coatings weather and break down. In yards and gardens, plant tags, synthetic twine, netting, and landscape fabric can also fragment into tiny pieces when mixed into soil or added to the compost pile. On top of that, particles from tire wear, litter, and degraded plastics elsewhere can settle out of the air or arrive with runoff.

What they mean for your yard and produce

Scientists are still figuring out the full story, but some patterns are emerging. Lab and greenhouse studies show that plastic particles can affect earthworms and microbes and, in some cases, reduce seed germination, root growth, and nutrient uptake. What this means for a typical Connecticut backyard is still being studied, and while the highest documented levels of microplastics are in intensively treated farm soils, we don’t yet have enough data to say exactly how home gardens compare. Based on what we know so far, microplastics don’t appear to be an immediate emergency in your yard, but they are a good reason to take soil seriously and to reduce plastic input wherever you can. You can’t control every particle that drifts in on the wind, but you can control much of what you deliberately put on your soil and avoid adding unnecessary plastic to a system you want to keep healthy for decades.

One of the biggest questions for homeowners is whether these particles enter food crops in significant amounts. While lab studies show that tiny plastic particles can interact with roots and potentially enter plant tissues, scientists are still working to understand how often this happens in a typical backyard and what it actually means for human health. For now, most scientists emphasize source control, i.e., reducing inputs, as the most practical step. That is something gardeners are already good at: choosing better materials, building healthy soil, and asking hard questions about what they buy.

Practical steps to reduce plastic in your garden soil

Simple shifts in what you apply to your yards can greatly reduce microplastic inputs. Be choosy about compost and soil amendments. Ask what went into bagged or bulk compost, and favor products made from yard waste, leaves, or clean food scraps over those blended with municipal solid waste or sewage sludge. Avoid fertilizers and composts listing “biosolids,” “sewage sludge,” or “municipal residuals,” which are known sources of microplastics. Rethink plastic-coated fertilizers, as their coatings break down into microplastics. Keep plastic out of your compost stream by removing plant tags, synthetic twine, and landscape fabric scraps whenever you can. Skip thin plastic mulches and cheap fabrics and use shredded leaves, wood chips, cardboard, or durable, reusable barriers. And don’t underestimate your own leaves and grass clippings; they are low in plastic, build organic matter and structure, and improve soil without adding new plastic sources. We may not be able to garden without any plastic in the 21st century, but we can make sure that the soil under our feet isn’t quietly becoming a plastic landfill in slow motion.

How Connecticut is already acting on related concerns

Connecticut has not yet written microplastic standards for garden products, but the state has moved aggressively on a closely related issue. As of October 1, 2024, Connecticut banned the use or sale of any soil amendment made from biosolids or wastewater sludge that contains PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, a group of persistent “forever chemicals”), and on July 1, 2025, extended the ban to PFAS-containing biosolid fertilizers. Those laws are aimed at chemicals, not microplastics, but they target many of the same products. To read more about this law, read our article here.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 7, 2026

Tree ID, The Winter Garden, Birding, and other February News

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Snow‑covered stone wall in front of a red barn and outbuildings under a winter sky, with “February 2026” written in pink script across the top.

“Every February, when the days grow long enough, the sun brings hope for new beginnings."

— Louise Hay

Identifying Trees in Winter

Snow-covered landscape with a large tree in the foreground, a wooden bench by a frozen pond, and bright sunlight shining through the tree’s branches against a clear blue sky.
Photo by Sean Flynn/UConn Photo

Believe it or not, winter is a great time to flex your tree identification skills. During the growing season, we have leaf shapes and arrangements to help us, but in the winter we have to look closer at the tree itself for answers. 

Instead of leaves, closely examine bark, twigs and buds in the winter for clues. Assess the branching pattern, overall size and environmental location for other hints. 

Like a proper gumshoe, check the ground for dropped leaves - keeping in mind that dropped leaves may be from the tree in question, or neighboring trees. These are best used for confirmation in addition to other characteristics.

There are plenty of resources and field guides out there to help you hone your skills. If you don't have a guide on hand, get good pictures so you can check them against a field guide when you are home. You can always send pictures to us for additional help! 

Gardening for Winter Interest

Dried coneflower stems in winter, each topped with a small mound of snow against a soft, snowy landscape.
Photo by Lauren Kurtz

Radiant berries, eye catching bark, snowcapped seeds, golden columnar grasses with feathery tops, and persistent green foliage are sure to brighten up the garden during the darkest months of year. Use this article to start planning now to enjoy your garden even more next winter.

 

Winter Birding: Horned Larks

Winter birding gets very interesting as many species are here only until early spring, and you need to get out soon to see them. The shoreline is a great place to find sanderlings, ruddy ducks, Brandt geese, dunlins and other winter visitors, but inland has its own thrills for winter birders.

Horned larks are just one- look for these where snow melts near fields and pastures where seed is abundant. We have these birds now at UConn's Horsebean Hill along the roads between pastures.  They sometimes can be found at Meigs's Point, Hammonasset State Park, around the parking lot and grassy areas.

Two horned larks standing on snow, showing their yellow and black facial markings and brown wings.

Image © Russ Smiley

Native Plant: Bayberry

Clusters of small, round, grayish wax-coated berries growing tightly along the woody branches of a shrub, surrounded by green foliage
Photo by Ansel Oommen, Bugwood.org

Native to North America, bayberry (Myrica L.) is a deciduous shrub prevalent across eastern regions of the U.S. Northern bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) is the most prominent variety in coastal areas of the northeast. Thus, it prefers moist, acidic soil with full sun and is tolerant of shoreline conditions like salt spray and high winds. Northern bayberry also withstands periods of drought. Shrubs grow in clusters, often along slopes or banks, acting as a means of control against erosion. 

Its dense, gray-green foliage has a narrow shape and a glossy appearance. Resin glands on leaf undersides produce a pleasant aroma when crushed. Northern bayberries are often dioecious—male and female flowers are on separate plants. Male and female flowers are both arranged in catkins. Male flowers are shades of dull yellow and green, while female flowers do not exhibit significant coloring—also lacking both sepals and petals. In the summer, female plants alone produce small, waxy fruit, provided that they are wind pollinated. Drupes can appear gray, white, or dull blue. Wildlife, mostly birds, utilizes them as a source of food. Bayberry fruit remains on shrubs until the following spring, sustaining the shrub with interest in appearance throughout all seasons.

Learn About Northern Bayberry

The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

 Biochar: Turning Waste into Soil Opportunity

This month, we’re bringing you a word on biochar—a carbon-rich material made by heating biomass (like wood chips, manure solids, or crop residues) under low-oxygen conditions. Think of it as “charcoal for soils,” designed not to burn, but to stay stable and interact with soil processes over the long term.

Why is biochar getting so much attention? First, it can help build soil carbon because a portion of biochar is resistant to decomposition, allowing carbon to remain in soil longer than many fresh organic inputs. Depending on the biochar type and the soil it’s applied to, biochar may also improve water holding, aggregate stability, and nutrient retention by increasing surface area and creating more sites that hold onto nutrients. In acidic soils, some biochar can even act as a mild liming material, nudging pH upward—though the effect varies a lot by feedstock and production temperature.

A quick note: biochar isn’t “one-size-fits-all.” Some biochar can contain salts or trace contaminants, and fresh biochar may temporarily tie up nutrients if it isn’t “charged” first. A practical tip is to pre-condition biochar by mixing it with compost, manure, or a nutrient solution before application, then incorporate it ahead of planting so it has time to equilibrate with the soil.

Biochar can be a powerful tool—especially when matched thoughtfully to soil needs and management goals.

By Zheng Yiling, Soil Science Graduate Student UConn PSLA

Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

    Temperature map

Precipitation Outlook

 

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

    • Nutmeg State Orchid Society Show and Sale
      • West Harford Meeting & Conference Center, West Hartford, CT.
      • March 21 12:00 PM - 5:00 PM
        March 22 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM

    Educational Opportunities & Workshops

        The CT Flower & Garden Show 2026

        The UConn Home Garden Education Office, along with our partners in the UConn Plant and Soil Health Center will be hosting a booth again this year at the flower show!

        Come visit us in the same location (Booth 417 & 419) to ask gardening questions, have your soil pH tested, and learn about our new facility opening in spring of 2026! 

        February 19th - 22nd
        Connecticut Convention Center
        100 Columbus Blvd.
        Hartford, CT 06103

        Volunteers at the HGEC Booth at the CT Flower & Garden Show 2025

        Our staff will be presenting the following seminars throughout the weekend:

        Thursday, February 19

        • Invasive Plants In Your Garden, Lauren Kurtz 
          • 11:00 AM, Room 11 

        Friday, February 20

        • Wild Mushrooms Just for Fun, Pamm Cooper
          • 12:30 PM, Room 11

        Saturday, February 21

        • Goal Orientated Gardening, Heather Zidack
          • 12:30 PM, Room 11

        Sunday, February 22

        • Soil Test to Success: Simple Numbers, Better Gardens, Avishesh Neupane
          • 11:00 AM, Room 11

        February Gardening Tips

        • This is the time to start small-seeded flowers such as begonias and petunias.
        • If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly.
        • If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!
        • If you are overwintering plants into your garage or cellar, check the soil to see if it needs water. If the soil is frozen, it may be in too cold of a spot.
        • When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.
        • Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects. 
        • Now is the time to order bare-root fruit trees. Consider placing an order from one of the CT Conservation Districts Spring Plant sales.
        • When using salt to melt ice on walks and driveways, spread it carefully to avoid damage to lawns. Consider using sand or sawdust instead. After the snow melts, flush the area around the roots exposed to salt with fresh water.
        • Inspect hemlocks for woolly adelgid. Plan to apply a dormant horticultural oil treatment in April if the cottony egg masses are found at the base of needles.
        • Paint the handles of garden tools red or orange. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier to locate when you lay them down in the garden or on the lawn.
        • Whether you're shoveling snow, hauling firewood, out for a winter hike or playing in the snow make sure you're taking the proper safety precautions while out in the elements this winter!

        We're Moving in April 2026

        New Location: 
        George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center
        University of Connecticut
        Roy E. Jones Building Annex
        27 Manter Road, Storrs, CT, 06269
        (In front of UConn Dairy Bar)
        Map of the Jones Annex across from the dairy bar

        UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Horticultural support and education for home garden issues related to plant health, garden pests, general plant care, and more.

        UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

        Diagnosis of plant health and pest issues for commercial growers and the public.

        UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

        Soil chemistry testing including pH, nutrients, salinity, lime and fertilizer recommendations, and many others.

        UConn Turf Diagnostic Lab

        Turf diagnostics for golf courses, athletic fields, or other commercial turfgrass sites

        What Stays the Same

        We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

        What Gets Better

        Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

        • One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
        • Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
        • Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events
        Watch for More Information Soon
        s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

        This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
        Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Zheng Yiling

        A Spider Everyone Can Love

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        By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

        Hanging pot of a spider plant with long, arching green leaves striped with white, labeled with a small wooden plant marker.
        Chlorophytum comosum, the Spider Plant (photo by M. Lisy).

         Spiders are one of those creatures that humans fear.  Most here in the Northeast are totally harmless, yet many times people run and occasionally hurt themselves trying to get away from them.  As such, it is interesting to me that one of our most beloved plants is called “Spider Plant.”  Its growth does superficially resemble a spider, but this one brings joy to its owners.  In fact, it is one of the hardiest of all our houseplants.   

        Scientifically it is known as Chlorophytum comosum, and there is quite a bit of controversy in the scientific community over species.  In the pictures accompanying this article, the differences in the leaves can be clearly seen.  The great debate stems from (pun intended) differences in leaf shape.  Scientists cannot decide on whether those differences represent phenotypic variation (changes in shape found within a population) or differences between species.  And while it seems like this should be an easy task, look at all the differences seen in dogs, which are all the same species.  While the leaves on our houseplants most likely represent different artificially selected cultivars (varieties), determining how many there are in the wild is difficult.  Plants normally have some ability to change the shape of their leaves.  For example, plants grown in shade tend to have larger leaves than those grown in full sun.  These plants are native to South Africa, and tend to grown in forests, which could explain why such variation is seen in the wild.  There were two other species listed for a while, but then those got lumped back in to C. comosum and their differences chalked up to environmental variation.     

        In reality, how many species there are does not really matter for us keeping these wonderful houseplants.  What does matter is their forgiving nature.  They grow and thrive in any typical houseplant soil.  It is best to let the surface dry before watering again.  They have an interesting root system that is part of the key to their success.  The thick, tuberous roots store water, and that is why they can survive for much longer than other houseplants.  When repotting, it is amazing how they fill the pot completely with roots.  Although it sounds like this might become a problem, the Spider Plant does not mind.  It responds with more leaves, and even babies. 

        Four close-up views of a single variegated spider plant leaf on a dark surface, showing its green edges and white center stripe from different angles.
        Spider Plant varieties, clockwise from the top left: a) from my first-grade teacher - narrow leaf with thin green stripe, b) wide leaf with wide white stripe, c) all green wide leaf, d) green leaf with white edges (photos by M. Lisy). 

        The Spider Plant is easily propagated by planting the little plantlets that form along runners sent out by the mother plant.  Simply plant these in typical houseplant soil, water well, and they will start to grow.  As they do not have a fully developed root system yet, care must be taken to not let them dry out during the beginning stages.  This plant is probably the most easily propagated houseplant.  I still have one propagated by my first-grade teacher.  It grew in the classroom when I was there, and two years later when my sister had the same teacher, it had produced babies that were sent home with each student.  Despite all of life’s ups and downs, the plant is still going and thriving almost half a century later.

        There are a number of interesting varieties of this plant.  The leaves can be narrow, wide, or curled.  The colors of the leaves are interesting as well, and can be found in any combination of leaf-types.  There are green leaves with a white center stripe.  Alternatively, there are green leaves with white edges.  As one would expect, there are all green leaves too.  Although I do not have one yet, there is a variety called ‘Hawaiian’ that has a green leaf with a yellow center.  Don’t be fooled by some so-called Spider Plants that are purple – those are actually Tradescantia, or Spiderworts, which are a totally different species of plant native to the Americas.  No matter which variety is chosen, with proper care Spider Plants could bring the owner enjoyment for a lifetime!  

        The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 1, 2026

        Beech Bark Disease – One More Problem For Connecticut Beech Trees

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        By Pamm Cooper UConn Home Garden Education Office 

        Rough, cracked beech bark covered in circular, raised scale infestations with a hand resting on the trunk for size reference.
        Evidence of insect damage on beech. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        American beeches have been suffering from beech leaf disease that is widespread in both Connecticut landscapes and forests. The prognosis for this disease is currently uncertain, but research is investigating treatments and other methods for possible control. This disease is evident from dark bands appearing on the leaves, so homeowners can to some extent seek help from licensed arborists once this symptom is evident.  

        Meanwhile, beech bark disease is also becoming a major threat to American beech (Fagus grandifolia) in eastern North America. This disease is a result of an interaction between a scale insect and one of two Nectria fungal pathogens. When these scales are present, beech bark disease has an increased chance of infecting the tree. The scale responsible was introduced from Europe and first appeared in Nova Scotia around 1890, according to researchers. Within forty years, the fungal pathogen combined with heavy infestations of the beech scale were killing trees, although only in Eastern Canada and Maine. 

        The scale insect, Cryptococcus fagisuga, will attack American beech, European beech (Fagus sylvatica) as well as Chinese and Oriental beeches, F. enleriana and F. orientalis, respectively. The scale insects pierce through the thin bark of the beeches with a stylet and inject enzymes to help digest the plant material. These small wounds in the tree can now be the entry point of fungal pathogens, including the two native Nectria spp. that can cause beech bark disease.  

        Adults mate and females lay eggs in mid- summer. Eggs hatch from late summer until early winter and form a waxy white covering. These scale insects often go unnoticed until they develop a “woolly” appearance which is evident in the winter. The immature scales overwinter on the tree, and the next year will become adults. If you notice white woolly scale insects on beeches, especially on trunks, these are likely the beech bark scale. In two to three years, scale populations can reach high levels where the trunks may appear white. Scales do not have wings, but they can be blown by the wind to new trees or transported by birds or even humans.  

        Disease symptoms take several years to develop after scales appear. Anyone hiking through the forests of Connecticut has probably noticed disfigured bark caused by the Nectria pathogens responsible for beech bark disease. In severely infected trees, living tissue just beneath the outer bark is killed. Cankers appear looking like rough, raised, circular disks. Fungal fruiting bodies appear in the center of these raised circles. Sometimes there are so many red fruiting bodies of the fungus that large areas of the trunk appear red. Over time, bark may crack and split off. Trunks of weakened trees can snap in high wind events. Nectria kills areas of woody tissue, sometimes creating cankers on the tree stem and large branches which in turn weaken the tree. Infected trees can thus be susceptible to other diseases and insects. 

        So, this is not a happy tale, but homeowners do have some good news.  Controlling the scale on any ornamental or native beeches on a property resulting in the absence of these scale insects will prevent beech bark disease. Because beech can form thick stands, thin some smaller trees out so the remaining trees will retain vigor. Make sure trees that have no scale present, and no disfigured bark are left with good space between them.  

        In case you may need an arborist, the Connecticut Tree Protective Association has licensed arborists that can help you assess the situation with your trees. A licensed arborist will be the best choice in any case. They will be educated in tree insect and disease problems and their solutions, if any are available. Contact the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station Forestry and Horticulture department for the latest news and control options for disease and insect problems. Hopefully, your beech trees will never have problems. 

        The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant January 25, 2026

        Camellias for Color, Inside and Out

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        By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        The image shows a plant with dark green leaves and vibrant red flowers with yellow stamens. The background has colorful lights.
        Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Now that the holidays are over, the decorations are put away and scenes of dreary, wintry weather dance in our heads, one plant with flowers resembling roses that comes into bloom this time of year are camellias. These Asian natives have been cultivated for possibly 5000 years. Most of us are familiar with Camellia sinensis var. sinensis aka, tea! Black tea, white tea, green tea all come from the same plant just processed differently.  

         Other camellia species were noted and grown for their flowers gracing gardens of temples and nobility. Prized plants were selected and crossed and eventually made their way to England, sometime in the 1730s. These elegant and highly treasured plants soon were spread all over Europe with hybridists and propagators in Italy, France, Belgium, Holland, Portugal, Spain, Germany and the U.K. by the middle of the 19th century. More and more hybrids and cultivars were being developed with the number now well over 3,000. As their popularity grew, camellias were soon being grown in Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Societies, like the American Camellia Society sprang up and shows were held (and still are) to exhibit various forms and compete for awards.

        Options for growing camellias in Connecticut depend on what part of the state you live in. Thanks to breeding efforts of Dr. William Ackerman (retired USDA plant breeder) and Dr Clifford Parks (Univ of NC botanist) varieties of camellias hardy to zone 6 (-10 F) were developed. Depending on the variety and environmental conditions, camellias can bloom from fall to spring. Many of the most popular cold hardy, fall blooming cultivars belong to the Winter Series bred by Ackerman and include plants such as ‘Polar Ice’, Winter Charm’ and ‘Winter Rose’, the latter reaching only 2 to 3 feet high and wide making it a possibility for container culture.  

         Dr. Parks focused on cold hardy spring bloomers including the April series (C. japonica hybrids). Many grow from 5 to 10 feet tall and can be found at some local nurseries. Look for ‘April Rose’, ‘April Blush’, ‘April Remembered’ and ‘April Tryst’.   

        Keep in mind that our weather has been somewhat unpredictable so those in zone 6 might want to locate plants in a semi-shaded, protected location. Camellia flowers are just exquisite, resembling roses in colors ranging from white to pink to red. Some are picoteed, some are double and some are very fragrant. The dark green foliage holds up year-round.  

        The image shows a close-up of a delicate flower with soft pink petals, yellow stamens, and glossy green leaves. The background is slightly blurred.
        Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Camellias, being broad-leaved evergreen shrubs, have similar requirements to rhododendrons. They do best in an acidic, well-drained soil amended with organic matter. It is often best to group them for effect and also for some protection from the elements. Plants are slow-growing and need adequate moisture but avoid planting them in poorly drained sites. Semi to full shade is preferable as the leaves may scorch in sunny, dry areas. A fertilizer for acid-loving plants can be applied in early spring as directed on the package. Pruning is rarely needed but could be done right after flowering.  

        I’ve never been fortunate to live in a warm enough location to plant camellias outdoors, but several cultivars are perfect as house plants if kept in a cool spot indoors. Two available from Logee’s in Danielson are ‘High Fragrance’ with delightfully scented light pink semi-double flowers and ‘Scentuous’ with fragrant, semi-double white blossoms. They have others blooming in their greenhouse.  

        Growing camellias in containers is a splendid way to get winter color, often along with fragrance. According to Logee’s co-owner and horticulturist, Bryron Martin, plants require an acid soil with a pH around 4.8 to 5.8. They can be grown in a camellia/azalea potting mix. Martin advises that young plants can be pinched back for fuller growth although that will delay flowering a bit. Keep in mind that some cultivars can get up to 6 feet in height so either select those that mature at a smaller size or be sure you have space to accommodate them.   

        Temperature is key to induce blooms. Ideally Martin recommends nighttime temperatures no higher than 59 F during the winter and preferably 30 – 40 F so an unheated room or sun porch is a great place for camellias. If nighttime temperatures are too high, the buds will drop. An east or west exposure will provide adequate light.  

        Fertilize camellias in the spring when active growth begins. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants as directed. Commercial synthetic and organic camellia fertilizers are available. Some growers use a cottonseed meal/bloodmeal homemade blend. To supply adequate magnesium to plants, Martin recommends dissolving 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water and applying this mixture twice a year.  

        For late fall through spring blossoms, indoors or out, camellias are attractive, evocative plants that perhaps more folks might consider cultivating. Those looking for a Valentine’s Day activity might consider the Camellia Festival at Planting Fields in Oyster Bay, NY. The Lyman estate in Waltham, MA also has a camellia greenhouse that is open to the public.   

        The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant January 18, 2026

        Plan Early For A Great Growing Season

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        By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        Seed tray with soil-filled compartments and tiny green seedlings emerging. Clear plastic lid with condensation droplets, indicating a humid environment.
        Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

        As you start to plan your next vegetable garden, you may reflect on the previous seasons to help you develop your seed selection, layout, and more.  Gardening can already be a sustainable practice, but many want to be more intentional with reducing waste, improving efficiency, and promoting sustainability in their home. Your stages of garden planning should include considerations to ensure you are meeting these goals during the growing season.

        The first way to improve your practices is to have an honest assessment of your strengths and weaknesses as a vegetable gardener. For example, through years of trial and error, I have finally admitted out loud that I am not skilled at keeping pepper seedlings warm enough to yield bountiful plants in the growing season. As a solution, I now buy my pepper plants from the garden center in the spring, while still using my setup to start other vegetables and flowers from seed. Using the garden center to help fill in gaps allows you to use that time, energy, and money for seed that has a track record of success. You might even have space to try something new!

        Plan to save seed before your plants even start growing. Select seed varieties listed as “open pollinated” so that the offspring will come back true to seed in the following season. Plants that do not have this designation may not come back true to type and may lead to unfamiliar plants in the future!

        Consider space as a commodity while you’re planning your garden. Think about the space that some plants require, and determine if that product is worth that space, time, and energy. If your row will yield half a dozen heads of cabbage from weeks of watering, weeding, and care, does that meet your gardening goal? Or do you have other goals in mind? Decisions like this early in the planning stages can help you make your garden more efficient, productive, and tailored to you.

        Prevent waste by growing what you and your family will eat. Sometimes gardeners get caught up in the novelty. Purple cauliflower is exciting and worth the space if your family will eat the cauliflower. Avoid overplanting to keep your garden efficient and reduce waste. Does your family get sick of certain produce mid-season? That could be a clue that you're overplanting. When planning for the year ahead, ask yourself if your family has the capacity to eat or safely store whatever is harvested when it is ready. Plant yields are easily researched to help you determine how many plants you may need in your garden to meet your goals.

        It can be difficult to consider cutting certain vegetables out of your garden for space or efficiency. However, this is where local agriculture can assist. Just like buying pepper starts from the garden center saves time and energy in the seedling space, buying local produce can help fill any gaps you may feel in your garden’s productivity.  From a sustainability standpoint, buying local usually means less energy used in transportation, refrigeration and storage when compared to produce from outside our region.

        Cost Share Agriculture (CSA) programs are an effective way to supplement your garden produce. These programs often work on a shareholder system, where purchasing a membership up front will guarantee a share of the farm’s harvest throughout the season usually on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. Connecticut has CSAs for produce, cut flowers, and even meat products. Many of them start signups well before the growing season begins, so keep an eye out!  Visiting local farmers markets is another way to help supplement your garden produce, with less of a regular commitment. Some even provide forms of family entertainment, like music, during the summer.

        As you plan your next garden, remember that sustainability starts with intentional choices and there is no “one size fits all” strategy. Carefully considering your strengths, weaknesses, and goals will help you promote a sustainable and efficient garden in the season to come.

        The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant January 10, 2026

        Five Soil Myths That Cost Home Gardeners Money

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        By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab 

        Every spring, I see the same scene in garden centers. Carts piled high with lime, fertilizer, gypsum, compost-in-a-bag, and something in a shiny package that promises instant results. When I chat with home gardeners, I often ask: How did you decide you needed all of that? Most of the time, the answer is, “I don’t really know. It looked helpful.” As someone who works with soil tests every day, I see the other side of that story. I see the lawn with three times more phosphorus than it needs. The vegetable bed that gets lime every year, even though the pH is already high.  

        A lot of this comes down to a few myths that are passed down by neighbors, family, and well-meaning advice on the internet. But they quietly drain gardeners’ wallets and sometimes weaken the very plants people are trying to help. Here are five of the most common myths, and what to do instead.  

        Myth 1: If my plants look okay, I don’t need a soil test.

        Plants will try their best in less-than-ideal conditions. By the time plants show clear distress, the problem is often advanced. pH has drifted far from the ideal range. One nutrient is so high that it is starting to interfere with others. In the lab, I see plenty of samples from landscapes that “seem fine,” where the numbers tell a very different story. I also see the opposite. People are convinced their soil is terrible, but the test says they are in good shape and only need minor tweaks. 

        This myth costs money because skipping the test means guessing. Guessing leads to buying products you do not need and missing the changes that would help the most. A better approach is to test your soil every few years, or sooner if you are starting something new. A good test provides clear recommendations matched to what you are growing. 

        Myth 2: More fertilizer equals better plants.

        People worry they are not fertilizing enough, so “a little extra” feels like good insurance.  Extra nutrients do not automatically translate to extra health. Instead, excess fertilizer can burn roots and foliage, push lush but weak growth that attracts pests and disease, and wash into streams and lakes where it fuels algae blooms, harming the environment. 

        This myth costs money as you are paying for nutrients your plants cannot use. You may also pay later for disease control or to repair damaged turf and stressed garden beds. A better approach is to view soil test recommendations as a ceiling, not a suggestion to exceed.   

        Myth 3: You should lime your soil every year.

        Many people learned that you “always lime the lawn in the fall.” As many native New England soils are naturally acidic, lime can be important in the right amount and in the right places. But I also see plenty of tests where pH is already in the upper 6s or above 7, and the lawn is still getting lime out of habit. 

        When pH gets too high for the plants, iron and other micronutrients become less available. Acid-loving plants like blueberries and rhododendrons struggle. This myth costs money twice. First, you pay for lime, then you may pay to fix the problems caused by a high pH. A better approach is to test soil pH and apply only when it is recommended.  

        Myth 4: Adding sand will fix heavy clay soil.

        Clay dries slowly in spring, sticks to tools when wet, and can feel like a brick when dry. A bag of sand looks like an easy fix, but mixing a little sand into a lot of clay does not make loam. It often makes something closer to concrete. What truly helps clay is organic matter. Compost and well-rotted manure can loosen heavy soils, improve drainage, and support healthier soil structure and biology. 

        This myth costs money because you buy sand, haul it around, and see little improvement. For most home gardens, adding organic matter works much better.  

        Myth 5: Bagged topsoil or garden soil is always an upgrade.

        Big bags and bulk deliveries of “topsoil,” “garden soil,” or “planting mix” can feel like a shortcut to perfect beds. Sometimes they are excellent, but at other times they are basically subsoil with a nicer name, which can cause problems like high salt levels, unbalanced nutrients, or a pH far from the target. 

        This myth costs money because poor-quality material means paying twice. Once to bring it in, and again to correct it. A better approach is to ask suppliers what is in the mix and how it is produced. And whenever possible, improve the soil you already have.  

        The Common Thread

        The common thread in all five myths above is that we reach for products before we understand the soil. If you start with a test, you can skip lime when your pH is already in range, cut back on fertilizer where nutrients are high, and put your time and money into the changes that will actually move the needle. That is better for your plants, your budget, and the rivers and lakes downstream. Your garden does not need every product on the shelf. It just needs the right help at the right time. 

         The UConn Home & Garden Education office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

        This article was published in the Hartford Courant January 4, 2026

        2026 Hours

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        The UConn Home & Garden Education Center is open 8:30 AM – 4:00 PM Monday – Friday

        Our office is closed for lunch from 12:30 PM -1:30 PM.

        For walk-in visits, please visit no later than 3:30PM, so that we can ensure we are giving you the highest quality service that we can provide.

        Our sample cooler (immediately outside our office) is always available for drop offs during lunch and outside of regular business hours. 

        Any anticipated changes to our schedule will be shared on our website in advance.

        These hours are effective Jan 5, 2026 – March 1, 2026