Author: Zidack, Heather

The Carbon Sink Under Your Feet: Why Your Lawn Matters

By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

A close up of a field of green grass
Photo by Maria Kovalets on Unsplash

When we think of climate solutions in Connecticut, our minds usually go to big things such as offshore wind, public transit, and forests. We rarely think about our lawns. But soil science suggests that the roughly 40 to 50 million acres of lawn and managed turfgrass in the United States represent a large and often-overlooked opportunity to help keep carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere, especially when those landscapes are well managed. Although forests store far more carbon overall in wood and soil, lawns can still play a supporting role by storing carbon mostly belowground, as long as maintenance inputs like fertilizer, mowing fuel, and irrigation are kept in check. In other words, done well lawns can store carbon in soil; done poorly, those same inputs can wipe out the gains and even make a lawn a net source of emissions. 

Your lawn and garden are not just aesthetic choices. They are living systems. Through photosynthesis, grass and other plants pull carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and turn it into sugars. Those sugars are basically “carbon packages” the plant uses to grow. Some of that carbon ends up in leaves, stems, and flowers, and some is sent belowground to build roots and feed soil microorganisms. 

As roots and microorganisms grow, die back, and regrow, they add carbon-rich material to the soil. That material becomes part of the soil’s organic matter. In the Northeast, well-managed turfgrass can store carbon at meaningful rates, with published estimates often ranging from a few hundred to more than a thousand pounds of carbon per acre per year. 

That same organic matter also gives soil what many gardeners call the “sponge” effect. It helps the ground absorb water, hold moisture longer, and maintain better structure. That means less runoff during storms, better drought tolerance during dry periods, and a healthier root zone overall. Healthier, carbon-rich soil helps a lawn do more than stay green. It helps the landscape better withstand weather stress and keeps more water and nutrients where they belong. 

Management that Protects Soil Health 

The benefits of a lawn or garden depend heavily on how it is managed. Poor soil management can weaken plant growth, reduce biological activity, and limit the soil’s ability to store carbon over time. If we want the lawn to store more carbon and withstand weather extremes better, management matters. We can start with the following practical steps. 

First, test your soil and apply only what the test calls for. Guesswork often leads to over-application of fertilizer, especially phosphorus and nitrogen. Excess phosphorus wastes money, can upset nutrient balance, and increases the risk of runoff into local waterways, where it can contribute to algae overgrowth. Excess nitrogen is also a concern because it can be lost to the air as greenhouse gases and to water through leaching and runoff, affecting groundwater and streams. A soil test helps you target nutrients and lime where they are actually needed, supporting healthier roots and the soil biology that helps build carbon-rich soil over time. 

Second, address compaction. When soil is compressed by repeated foot traffic or heavy equipment, it loses pore space. That limits air movement, reduces water infiltration, restricts root growth, and weakens biological activity. Carbon storage does not stop altogether, but the soil becomes less effective at building and holding additional organic matter. In lawns, core aeration can help relieve compaction. 

Third, keep the soil covered. Dense grass cover and recycled clippings help shield the soil, reduce erosion, buffer moisture swings, and support soil life. This also supports soil carbon by keeping roots growing and by reducing the loss of carbon-rich soil through erosion and rapid drying. The key is to maintain healthy turf and avoid practices that leave bare ground for long periods. 

A Landscape of Stewardship 

For Connecticut lawns, the real test is not just how green they look in a good week. It is how well they hold up through heavy rain, summer dry spells, and changing weather patterns. That resilience starts in the soil. 

A healthy, carbon-rich soil is one of the best ways to make a lawn more resilient. By focusing on plant-appropriate pH, good soil structure, and science-based nutrient management, we do more than improve how a landscape looks. We make it better able to absorb water, support plant growth, and store more carbon over time. 

Your lawn will not solve climate change on its own. But better soil management can make it healthier, more resilient, and modestly better at storing carbon. That is a practical win for landowners, for water quality, and for the broader environment. 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.   

 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant March 21, 2026

Watch for these Temperatures this Spring

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Emerging daffodil shoots growing at the base of a stone wall amid fallen leaves.
Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

With a taste of spring earlier in the week, gardeners are itching to get back out there for a little bit of sunshine and horticultural therapy. Don’t let the forecast fool you, we still have a stretch of time before we can really do many of the gardening activities we love.  

Interestingly, there is a magic number for gardeners to watch out for. 50°F is a significant temperature for when we, as gardeners, can start to act. However, this temperature, in various applications, needs to be monitored to ensure we’re doing the right activities at the right time.  

The first thing we will look for in the spring is air temperature above 50°F during the day. Unfortunately, the couple of days we had last week weren’t enough to really set off the start whistles for us. Consistency is key. When we hit this consistent daytime temperature, we start to see more obvious signs of seasonal changes. With a sustained air temperature above 50°F during the day, we can start to do things like clean out our gardens. Many species of pollinators and beneficial insects will start to become active at these temperatures. While a more accurate tool, known as Growing Degree Days (GDD) can help you identify the specific needs of specific species of both plant and insect development, this rule of thumb gives us a guideline to start with. Remove thick, dense piles of wet and matted leaves, or consider gently fluffing them up with a rake. A one-to-two-inch layer can benefit our plants as a natural mulch, but dense piles should be relocated to compost or the edge of the wood line. If you encourage pollinator habitat, avoid shredding or mulching leaf material as an extra protective measure for any stragglers that may be slow to wake up.  

Soil warms much slower than the ambient air temperature, so while it may feel comfortable to work outside, the soil may not be primed for activity. We commonly encourage gardeners to monitor for a soil temperature consistently above 50°F as another milestone.  This guideline is found to be the baseline for germination rates of many warm-season plants, and sustained temperatures above this threshold are necessary to promote growth. Cool season annuals and perennials will have different soil temperature thresholds for germination and success. In addition, this is an ideal temperature range for many garden products like fertilizers and pre-emergent herbicides to be effective. As always, check the product label for specifics on temperature ranges, as different products and different species of plants all have different needs. While we get a daily forecast almost anywhere for air temperatures, soil can be a bit more challenging to track. Use tools like Cornell’s Fore Cast or similar resources to help track local soil temperatures.  

The last big milestone in the spring comes when nighttime air temperatures consistently reach 50°F or higher. At this point many of our houseplants and tender annuals, including  warm-season vegetables, can be planted in the garden or put out onto the patio without protection. This is the stage where we truly feel like spring has arrived and our gardening is in full swing.  

 When we have a typical season, these benchmarks tend to happen in order. Days get warmer, soil follows suit, and nighttime temperatures are the last to stabilize. However, occasionally, the seasons can throw us a curveball and these may not sync up exactly as planned. Always monitor them as separate markers for the best outcomes in your garden.  

By watching these temperature thresholds as the season unfolds, we give our gardens the best possible start. These guidelines are a great place to start for the beginning gardener, and tools like the soil temperature map and growing degree days are there to help the advanced gardener fine tune their practice. Whatever your skill level, we’re here to help you grow!  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.  

This article was published in the Hartford Courant March 14, 2026

Seed Starting, Simplified

By Holly McNamara, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Seed-starting trays with tiny green seedlings emerging in soil
Photo by H. Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Growing plants from seed is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. In Connecticut, late winter is the time to start many cold-weather crops indoors, so they’re strong and ready to move outside after the last frost. Starting seeds requires a fair amount of attention, but you don’t need any special tools – this is an affordable project that anyone can tackle.  

Start by choosing seeds from a New England or Connecticut–based company. Local seed companies offer varieties adapted to our shorter growing season and changing spring temperatures. One seed packet is usually enough for a 10- to 30-foot row.  To determine when to start your seeds, use a calendar and the most up-to-date forecast for the last frost. Write the sowing date on each seed packet, then group packets with similar planting times together to stay organized.  

You don’t need any fancy equipment to sow your seeds. All you need are containers with drainage holes and catch trays for excess water. Reuse items from around the house – Styrofoam cups, yogurt or cottage cheese containers, salad tubs, plastic takeout boxes, egg cartons – the list goes on! Before planting, wash containers with soap and water, then rinse with a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water to prevent disease.  

Choose a commercial seed-starting mix that is loose and drains well. Garden soil is not recommended because it is not sterile and can introduce mold or disease. Fill containers to about one inch from the top with a moistened seed-starting mix. Level and gently firm the surface. If planting more than one type of seed in a container, make shallow rows and sow seeds evenly. If planting just one type, you can scatter them lightly across the surface. Make sure to label them immediately before or after sowing. Then, cover your seeds with a thin layer of vermiculite or seed-starting mix. Very tiny seeds should remain uncovered. Mist gently with water or set the container in a pan of warm water to moisten from below. Cover the container loosely with plastic wrap or a plastic bag to hold in moisture. You likely won’t need to water again until seeds germinate. Place trays in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Once seedlings emerge, remove the plastic and move them to a bright window with indirect light. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings, but don’t let the seedlings wilt. If needed, thin them out by snipping extras at the soil line with scissors. If they outgrow their containers, you can transplant them into individual pots once they develop one set of true leaves.  

Seedlings must adjust gradually to outdoor conditions, a process called “hardening off.” Start by placing them outside in part shade, protected from wind, for about a week. Bring them in at night before temperatures drop. During the second week, slowly increase sun exposure. Start by leaving them outside in direct sunlight for an hour for the first day, and then increasing the amount of time each consecutive day. After this week, if no freezing temperatures are expected, plants can remain outside until transplanting. Hardening off is important in the seed sowing process: skipping this step can lead to sunburned, damaged leaves.  

Choose a cloudy day to transplant your seedlings to reduce shock. Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Gently remove the plant from its container with a spoon, keeping as much soil around the roots as possible. Try not to grasp the plant by its stem; this can cause serious damage. Set it in the hole at the same depth it was growing in its container. Fill the hole gently, without packing the soil tightly around the roots.  

Annual flowers like marigolds and zinnias are excellent for beginners. Check the seed packet to determine how many weeks are needed before transplanting outdoors. In late winter, gardeners can start artichokes, perennial herbs, chard, salad greens, onions, leeks and more. By late February/early March, sow cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and kale. Tomatoes and peppers can also be started indoors for transplanting later in spring. In New England, peas can be planted outdoors as soon as the soil is workable.  

Starting seeds indoors may seem technical at first, but it’s simply a matter of timing, clean containers, good grow mix, and patience. With a little planning now, your garden will be off to a strong start when warm weather finally arrives.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant March 7, 2026

Snow Cover, Lighting Needs, Snow Fleas, and More March News

Purple and white crocus flowers blooming from the soil with green grass surrounding them, accompanied by bold text reading “March 2026.

“March is a month of considerable frustration - it is so near spring and yet across a great deal of the country the weather is still so violent and changeable that outdoor activity in our yards seems light years away."

— Thalassa Cruso

We've Had a Lot of Snow - What Does it Mean for our Gardens?

 Outdoor metal tables and chairs covered in deep snow, with large mounds of snow piled on top and around them in a winter landscape.
Photo by Sean Flynn/UConn Photo

It's been a temperamental winter! With extreme cold and lots of snow, many have asked us what to expect for their garden plants and even pest populations.

Snow acts as nature's insulation during the winter. A heavy layer of snow will help keep temperatures at and below the soil level stable when compared to air temperatures like the blustery cold we've experienced this winter. Plant root zones are quite content with both a consistent temperature, and lots of available water about to saturate their root systems with the snow melting and forecasted rain.

The bigger risk to plants is freezing and thawing. Snow weighing down branches can also lead to physical damage in the form of broken branches. As the snow thaws and refreezes, ice crystals surrounding evergreen needles can cause damage as well. In the more mild winters we've observed in previous years, freeze and thaw cycles lead to frost heaving, which leaves plant roots susceptible to winter damage.

Piles of snow mixed with de-icing salts can cause trouble if on or near ornamental plants. Be sure to flush these areas with clean water in the spring to help reduce salinity in the soil. 


 Lighting Needs for Starting Seeds Indoors

Seed tray with soil-filled compartments and tiny green seedlings emerging. Clear plastic lid with condensation droplets, indicating a humid environment.
Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Most windowsills in Connecticut are not bright enough or warm enough in late winter for starting seeds indoors.

For sturdy seedlings, you’ll want to choose bright, full‑spectrum lights. Use LED or fluorescent fixtures rather than incandescent bulbs and keep them six to eight inches above the seedlings. Raise the lights as seedlings grow to prevent burning the leaves or leggy growth. Aim for 14 to 16 hours of light per day and use a timer, so seedlings get consistent lighting each day.

 


 Interesting Insects: Snow Fleas

Snow fleas (Hypogastruna nivicola)  are commonly seen during the winter months, especially against the backdrop of snow.

They move in little jumps akin to fleas, but do so by flicking a furcula which sends them airborne to some extent. Click beetles also use a furcula in a similar fashion. These springtails  eat organic matter such as leaf litter, and can be found in damp environments year-round. 
 

Cluster of tiny dark springtails gathered in a shallow depression in the snow, creating a dense patch against the white background

Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Office


 Increasing Humidity for Houseplants

The start of spring signals houseplants to resume active growth. To maintain healthy houseplants during this stage of their life, ensure proper humidity conditions in the growing environment are met.

Spring air is often dry, depleting plants of moisture necessary to maintain their vigor. To promote humidity, place plants atop a tray of water with pebbles, mist occasionally, or set up a humidifier nearby.  Do not mist leaves, however, since this can create a favorable environment for disease. 

Spring into action: easy tips for thriving houseplants

 


Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Top Soil Tragedy: The Invasive Jumping Worm

The invasive jumping worm, resembling the European earthworm, is typically identified by the thick white band encircling the body (clitellum), their “jumping” and erratic movements, and are typically surrounded by coffeeground-like castings.

This pest is becoming a prominent issue in Connecticut, rapidly devouring organic matter and altering soil properties. Unlike the European earthworms, jumping worms produce castings that are hardened via mucus into clumps, and turn the top layer of soil rapidly into a heavily granular texture. These large castings negatively influence the surrounding environment and plants, making it harder for plant roots to securely anchor into the ground, take up water, nutrient absorption, and can cause rapid decline within an
area.

As of now, there is no standard method of eradicating or controlling the jumping worm population, however, there are some steps you can take to stay proactive and protect against the wicked worm, such as inspecting any root balls before planting, and using soil produced from a reputable source.

By Zaira O’Leary, Soil Science Master’s Student, UConn PSLA


Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

    Temperature map

Precipitation Outlook

 


Upcoming Events and Things to Do


      Educational Opportunities & Workshops


            Join Us at Upcoming Talks

            How to be an IPM Detective with Heather Zidack
            March 5, 2026 - 1:00 PM
            Hosted by the Wethersfield Garden Club
            Solomon Welles House, Wethersfield, CT
            Event Link - Please RSVP to wethersfieldgardenclubest1926@gmail.com

            Good Bug/Bad Bug with Pamm Cooper
            March 10, 2026 - 12:15 PM
            Hosted by Leete's Island Garden Club
            Nathaniel Greene Community Center
            Guilford, CT

            Gardening with Native Plants with Pamm Cooper
            March 16, 2026 - 6:30 PM
            Hosted by the Lutz Children's Museum
            Manchester, CT

            Connecticut Butterflies with Pamm Cooper
            March 23, 2026
            Hosted by East Hartford Garden Club
            617 Hill St. East Hartford, CT


            The CT Flower & Garden Show 2026

            UConn booth with a central table displaying informational materials, flanked by blue‑skirted display tables on both sides inside a large convention hall.

            Thank you to all of the volunteers, staff, and visitors that were part of making our booth a success! Mark your calendars! We'll be there again Feb. 18. - Feb 21 2027! 


            March Gardening Tips

              • Seeds of annuals that require 10-12 weeks of growth before transplanting can be started indoors now.
              • Using sterile growing mix for starting seeds reduces problems with damping-off fungi. Avoid overwatering, which encourages root rots.
              • Move woody plants before they begin new spring growth; transplant as soon as the soil is workable.
              • Prune out and destroy dark, swollen black knot galls on twigs of cherry and plum before budbreak. On trees, shrubs, fruiting bushes and vines, prune off and destroy cankered twigs and any branches showing dieback. Prune shortly before budbreak, or wait until just after leaves have expanded.
              • When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.
              • Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects. 
              • Carefully remove winter mulches from planting beds as snow melts and temperatures warm but leave it nearby so that tender plants may be recovered if there is a frost.
              • After the snow melts, flush areas that have been exposed to de-icing salts around the roots with fresh water.
              • Keep any birdseed and pet food that is stored in the garage in tightly covered containers to prevent rodents and wildlife from getting into it.
              • Start cleaning containers and pots so they are ready for planting.
              • Save plastic milk jugs or 2-liter containers to use as individual hot caps or cloches. They will fit nicely over small garden plants, creating a free miniature greenhouse.


              We're Moving in April 2026

              New Location: 
              George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center
              University of Connecticut
              Roy E. Jones Building Annex
              27 Manter Road, Storrs, CT, 06269
              (In front of UConn Dairy Bar)
              Map of the Jones Annex across from the dairy bar

              UConn Home Garden Education Office

              Horticultural support and education for home garden issues related to plant health, garden pests, general plant care, and more.

              UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

              Diagnosis of plant health and pest issues for commercial growers and the public.

              UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

              Soil chemistry testing including pH, nutrients, salinity, lime and fertilizer recommendations, and many others.

              UConn Turf Diagnostic Lab

              Turf diagnostics for golf courses, athletic fields, or other commercial turfgrass sites

              What Stays the Same

              We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

              What Gets Better

              Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

              • One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
              • Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
              • Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events
              Watch for More Information Soon
              s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

              This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
              Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Zaira O'Leary

              Potted Bulbs for Color and Scent 

              By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

              Potted hyacinths and freesia plants sit on a windowsill, with purple blooms and green leaves contrasted against a snowy outdoor scene visible through the window.
              Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

              With snow covered gardens and more wintry weather on the way, many of us can’t resist the temptation to purchase potted hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, primroses and other delightful spring blooming plants to bring some early color and fragrance to our homes. It was especially difficult to leave the Connecticut Flower and Garden Show last week without an armload of plants forced into bloom.  

               To enjoy your plants to the fullest, here are some tips on caring for them. First realize that these plants were ‘forced’ into bloom at an earlier time than they would on their own. Growers manipulate the growing conditions of the plants by regulating temperature, light and moisture. This does stress plants somewhat so depending on the type of bulb, some may or may not bloom again.  

              If you have not purchased any pots of forced bulbs yet but are planning to, select ones that are still budded or ones where just a few flowers have opened. This will ensure a longer bloom period for you to enjoy. If temperatures are below 40 F, it is best to bag or wrap the plant in the store to keep the blossoms and foliage from cold injury and get the plants home as soon as possible. Leaving them in an unheated car in frigid temperatures is not a good idea.  

              Whether you’ve chosen to bring home spring flowering bulbs, like hyacinths, or a hardy perennial, like primroses, they pretty much all have similar requirements as houseplants. All these plants appreciate being kept in cool temperatures with between 50 and 60 F being optimum and 70 F probably being the upper limit. Warmer temperatures will cause plant growth and flowering to speed up so your blooms won’t last as long.  

              Bright indirect light for 6 to 8 hours of the day will keep your plants growing longer. Lately with the cloudy weather and limited sunshine, most of us can keep plants in a south window this time of year as the sun’s light is less intense and also, sparser than we would hope. Usually, the temperatures near windows are much cooler than other areas of the house.  

              All of these plants, as well as most other houseplants, grow best when kept moderately moist. Avoid overwatering or having pots sit in water as that can lead to root rots. I’ve noticed growers shying away from peat based potting mixes that were more moisture retentive. So, check plants every other day at first to see when they are in need of watering. While the plastic or foil pot wraps might make your selection look more appealing, they often do not have drainage holes so if pots are overwatered, the excess water stays in the wrap and the roots remain saturated and prone to rot. I like to water these plants by taking them out of the wrap, bringing them to the sink and applying enough water so that it runs out the bottom for a half minute or so and then let them sit in the sink until excess water drains out. Then return to their wrap or better yet, a saucer where excess water can be easily seen and dumped.  

              As far as fertilizing goes, it depends on whether you want to keep these plants and set them out in your garden when warmer weather arrives or will they get relegated to the compost or trash heap. If you intend to plant them out, then fertilize them using a half strength houseplant fertilizer every other week. The reason being you want the green foliage to photosynthesize as much as possible before the plants go dormant. The food produced by this process will enable the bulbs to sprout and grow next year. Even if not planted out, perennials like primroses will bloom for a longer period of time inside if regularly fertilized.  

              I have found flowering bulbs, like hyacinths and daffodils, to come back pretty successfully when planted in the garden, while having little success with tulips, unless they are species tulips or some of the smaller Greigii varieties. If keeping bulbs for planting out, remove the flower stem after blooms have faded but keep watering foliage until it starts to fade and brown. Remove the dying leaves and then the pot can be moved to a cool, dimly lit spot and just kept barely moist until the soil can be worked in the spring.  

              For primroses, remove the flower stalks as blossoms fade. Depending on the species purchased, your plants may or may not be hardy outside. Hopefully the plant tag will mention hardiness zones or at least give you the species so you can look it up. Primroses can be kept as houseplants but they do require cool temperatures, bright indirect lighting and regular fertilizing and watering when forming buds and in bloom. In the garden, primroses sulk in hot weather often dying back until next spring when cooler temperatures prevail.  

              With a little care, flowering bulbs and other plants can liven up these dreary winter days. At least they let us know, spring is right around the corner. 

              The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

               

              This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 28, 2026

              Planting Bare Root Trees and Shrubs

              By Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

               A tractor with an orange front loader lifts a large wooden crate containing bundled bare-root trees from the back of a delivery truck near a wooded area.
              A bundle of bare root apple trees. By Andrew Hoagland.

              Bare root trees and shrubs, as the name suggests, are not sold in a pot or balled and burlapped. At the nursery bare root plants are grown in the ground, harvested as young plants, and sold without soil surrounding the roots. They are sold while the plant is dormant, usually in late winter or early spring and are best planted while they are still dormant or just before bud break. Historically, they have been used for agriculture or conservation plantings but they are also suitable for the home landscape. Bare root trees and shrubs are a great choice if you need a lot of plant material or are on a tight budget.  

              Consider using bare root trees and shrubs to provide structure in your garden, to create wildlife habitat, for erosion control, or to start your home orchard or tree farm.  Additionally, bare root plants are perfect for planting a hedge because they are similar in size, establish quickly, and don’t require too much digging. They will take longer to fill in the hedge than containerized plants, but they will cost a lot less money. Many popular landscape trees and shrubs are available as bare root plants.  

              Choose a reputable nursery or grower, preferably one that is growing regionally adapted plants. In New England, choose a grower in the Northeastern United States. When choosing species to purchase, have planting goals in mind. These goals can be those previously mentioned or other goals like revegetating an area with native plants after removing invasive plants. As with any planting project, consider the right plant for the right place. Choose species that are suited to the growing conditions of the planting area. Consider sun exposure, soil characteristics, hardiness zone, plant size at maturity, and location of underground utilities.  

              Before purchasing bare root plants, have a plan with all the above considerations addressed. Unlike containerized plants, bare root plants have a very specific and narrow timeline for purchasing and planting. They are typically shipped in the early spring, around the time they should be planted.  

              To keep plants dormant before planting, they can be placed in the fridge or in an unheated garage or basement. They can be stored dormant in the original shipping package for no more than two weeks before planting. Mist the roots every few days so they do not dry out during cold storage.  

              Planting bare root plants is done in the early spring before buds open or late fall after the plant goes dormant but before the ground freezes. As with all trees and shrubs, they should not be planted too deep. The root flare, or transitional part of the plant between the roots and stem, should be level with the soil. Add a layer of mulch or compost but avoid piling mulch too high up the trunk. Water weekly, or more often under dry conditions, during the first year after planting. Protection from deer and rodents is important when planting young tender trees and shrubs. Use a tree tube or fencing to discourage browsing.  

              The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.  

              This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 21, 2026

              Keeping Valentines Day Flowers Fresh

              By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

              Valentine’s Day is one of the biggest holidays, next to Mother’s Day, in the floral industry. Whether you’re buying fresh cut flowers, or a potted plant for someone special, helping them keep those flowers looking their best can be part of the gift you give this year.  

              Pink, yellow, and purple Alstroemeria flowers arranged together in a small bouquet with green leaves.
              Photo by H. Zidack

              Start by selecting flowers that look healthy and vibrant. You want flowers with firm petals, with buds just starting to open or have just recently opened. Avoid flowers that are releasing pollen, are discolored, or have drooping foliage. Check the stems for rigidity and make sure that plant material is clean with no indications of mold or decay. When you purchase your flowers, many florists will give you packaging to help reduce their exposure to the extreme cold as you carry them to your car. This is an important step, so don’t skip it if you can! Avoiding large temperature fluctuations will keep your flowers fresh for longer.  

              When you get home with your flowers find a vase that is clean and free of debris. Always wash vases with warm, soapy water in between uses to prevent the transmission of bacteria and disease from one bouquet to the next. Add fresh, tepid water. Remove all plastic, rubber bands, and other packaging from your bouquet. Cut each flower stem at a 45-degree angle using hand pruners or snips. Using scissors, or knives that aren’t sharp may crush the vascular tissue and prevent the flowers from taking up water, leading to faster decline. Remove any leaves that would sit below the water line before placing stems into the vase.  

              If you have a bouquet of roses, take special care when you are preparing their stems. These flowers will live longer if you cut their stems under water, using the same 45-degree angle, and place them in your vase of water as quickly as possible. This extra step ensures that air bubbles don’t work their way into the vascular tissue and will keep your roses fresh for longer. When we see roses develop a “floppy neck,” this is most often the cause. While it is possible to revive your roses from this issue, it is best to try to avoid it altogether.  

              There are many anecdotes out there regarding additives to provide food and antimicrobial agents to the water to help your flowers last longer. Many of these anecdotes aren’t based in research. If your bouquet comes with a flower food packet, mix it as instructed and use it in your vase. However, if you don’t have one, don’t worry about adding anything. Instead, focus on ensuring that you are giving your flowers fresh, clean water. 

              Decay and microbial growth are two of the biggest reasons our cut flowers pass quickly. Many of the strategies mentioned above help to mitigate this concern, but it is important to keep a watchful eye. Besides washing your vase in between use, sanitize your flower snips or pruners in between uses as well and watch the water quality in your vase, replacing it every couple of days with fresh, cool, water. Always change the water if it appears murky or cloudy in the vase.  

              When changing your water, make a fresh cut 1-2 inches up the stem to ensure that the vascular system is staying open and clean of any debris or bacteria. If stems are starting to get mushy, cut high enough above the decay, or consider removing the stem entirely from the arrangement. Keep your flowers in a location that is bright but avoid direct sunlight, and keep them away from drafts, or entryways where large temperature fluctuations are likely. Lastly, know when to say goodbye and dispose of any flowers that are past bloom, or showing signs of decay. You may notice that you’ll need a smaller vase as you cut your stems shorter or remove flowers as they pass. A mason jar makes for a great display for those longest lasting flowers!  

              There’s no doubt that fresh flowers bring vibrancy and life into our homes during these blustery, winter months. Whether you’re buying a bouquet for yourself, or for someone special this Valentine’s day, keep a close eye on them and you’ll be sure to have long lasting blooms to enjoy!  

              The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.  

              This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 15, 2026

              Microplastics in Garden Soils: Should Homeowners Worry?

              By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab

              Colorful plastic fragments scattered across dark soil.
              Photo by Avishesh Neupane

              If you spread compost on your garden this year, there is a good chance you added a little plastic, too. Researchers around the world are now finding microplastics – tiny plastic fragments and fibers smaller than a grain of rice – in garden soils and compost products that look perfectly normal to the naked eye. In one recent study of commercial composts, every single one of the 11 products tested contained microplastics, with cleaner, eco-labeled brands still showing lower but measurable levels.

              That raises a fair question for Connecticut homeowners: Should you worry about microplastics in your yard? The short answer is don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either. Microplastics are not a crisis that should send you ripping out your raised beds, but they are a good reason to be mindful about how plastic moves through our gardens and to be choosy about what we bring in.

              Where are microplastics coming from?

              Microplastics in garden soil mostly come from everyday sources. Composts and organic fertilizers made from mixed municipal waste or sewage sludge can carry plastic fragments and fibers, and biosolid-based fertilizers have been identified as a major pathway for microplastics into farm and lawn soils. Plastic-coated, slow-release fertilizers can contribute microplastics as their coatings weather and break down. In yards and gardens, plant tags, synthetic twine, netting, and landscape fabric can also fragment into tiny pieces when mixed into soil or added to the compost pile. On top of that, particles from tire wear, litter, and degraded plastics elsewhere can settle out of the air or arrive with runoff.

              What they mean for your yard and produce

              Scientists are still figuring out the full story, but some patterns are emerging. Lab and greenhouse studies show that plastic particles can affect earthworms and microbes and, in some cases, reduce seed germination, root growth, and nutrient uptake. What this means for a typical Connecticut backyard is still being studied, and while the highest documented levels of microplastics are in intensively treated farm soils, we don’t yet have enough data to say exactly how home gardens compare. Based on what we know so far, microplastics don’t appear to be an immediate emergency in your yard, but they are a good reason to take soil seriously and to reduce plastic input wherever you can. You can’t control every particle that drifts in on the wind, but you can control much of what you deliberately put on your soil and avoid adding unnecessary plastic to a system you want to keep healthy for decades.

              One of the biggest questions for homeowners is whether these particles enter food crops in significant amounts. While lab studies show that tiny plastic particles can interact with roots and potentially enter plant tissues, scientists are still working to understand how often this happens in a typical backyard and what it actually means for human health. For now, most scientists emphasize source control, i.e., reducing inputs, as the most practical step. That is something gardeners are already good at: choosing better materials, building healthy soil, and asking hard questions about what they buy.

              Practical steps to reduce plastic in your garden soil

              Simple shifts in what you apply to your yards can greatly reduce microplastic inputs. Be choosy about compost and soil amendments. Ask what went into bagged or bulk compost, and favor products made from yard waste, leaves, or clean food scraps over those blended with municipal solid waste or sewage sludge. Avoid fertilizers and composts listing “biosolids,” “sewage sludge,” or “municipal residuals,” which are known sources of microplastics. Rethink plastic-coated fertilizers, as their coatings break down into microplastics. Keep plastic out of your compost stream by removing plant tags, synthetic twine, and landscape fabric scraps whenever you can. Skip thin plastic mulches and cheap fabrics and use shredded leaves, wood chips, cardboard, or durable, reusable barriers. And don’t underestimate your own leaves and grass clippings; they are low in plastic, build organic matter and structure, and improve soil without adding new plastic sources. We may not be able to garden without any plastic in the 21st century, but we can make sure that the soil under our feet isn’t quietly becoming a plastic landfill in slow motion.

              How Connecticut is already acting on related concerns

              Connecticut has not yet written microplastic standards for garden products, but the state has moved aggressively on a closely related issue. As of October 1, 2024, Connecticut banned the use or sale of any soil amendment made from biosolids or wastewater sludge that contains PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, a group of persistent “forever chemicals”), and on July 1, 2025, extended the ban to PFAS-containing biosolid fertilizers. Those laws are aimed at chemicals, not microplastics, but they target many of the same products. To read more about this law, read our article here.

              The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.

              This article was published in the Hartford Courant February 7, 2026

              Tree ID, The Winter Garden, Birding, and other February News

              Snow‑covered stone wall in front of a red barn and outbuildings under a winter sky, with “February 2026” written in pink script across the top.

              “Every February, when the days grow long enough, the sun brings hope for new beginnings."

              — Louise Hay

              Identifying Trees in Winter

              Snow-covered landscape with a large tree in the foreground, a wooden bench by a frozen pond, and bright sunlight shining through the tree’s branches against a clear blue sky.
              Photo by Sean Flynn/UConn Photo

              Believe it or not, winter is a great time to flex your tree identification skills. During the growing season, we have leaf shapes and arrangements to help us, but in the winter we have to look closer at the tree itself for answers. 

              Instead of leaves, closely examine bark, twigs and buds in the winter for clues. Assess the branching pattern, overall size and environmental location for other hints. 

              Like a proper gumshoe, check the ground for dropped leaves - keeping in mind that dropped leaves may be from the tree in question, or neighboring trees. These are best used for confirmation in addition to other characteristics.

              There are plenty of resources and field guides out there to help you hone your skills. If you don't have a guide on hand, get good pictures so you can check them against a field guide when you are home. You can always send pictures to us for additional help! 


              Gardening for Winter Interest

              Dried coneflower stems in winter, each topped with a small mound of snow against a soft, snowy landscape.
              Photo by Lauren Kurtz

              Radiant berries, eye catching bark, snowcapped seeds, golden columnar grasses with feathery tops, and persistent green foliage are sure to brighten up the garden during the darkest months of year. Use this article to start planning now to enjoy your garden even more next winter.

               


              Winter Birding: Horned Larks

              Winter birding gets very interesting as many species are here only until early spring, and you need to get out soon to see them. The shoreline is a great place to find sanderlings, ruddy ducks, Brandt geese, dunlins and other winter visitors, but inland has its own thrills for winter birders.

              Horned larks are just one- look for these where snow melts near fields and pastures where seed is abundant. We have these birds now at UConn's Horsebean Hill along the roads between pastures.  They sometimes can be found at Meigs's Point, Hammonasset State Park, around the parking lot and grassy areas.

              Two horned larks standing on snow, showing their yellow and black facial markings and brown wings.

              Image © Russ Smiley


              Native Plant: Bayberry

              Clusters of small, round, grayish wax-coated berries growing tightly along the woody branches of a shrub, surrounded by green foliage
              Photo by Ansel Oommen, Bugwood.org

              Native to North America, bayberry (Myrica L.) is a deciduous shrub prevalent across eastern regions of the U.S. Northern bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) is the most prominent variety in coastal areas of the northeast. Thus, it prefers moist, acidic soil with full sun and is tolerant of shoreline conditions like salt spray and high winds. Northern bayberry also withstands periods of drought. Shrubs grow in clusters, often along slopes or banks, acting as a means of control against erosion. 

              Its dense, gray-green foliage has a narrow shape and a glossy appearance. Resin glands on leaf undersides produce a pleasant aroma when crushed. Northern bayberries are often dioecious—male and female flowers are on separate plants. Male and female flowers are both arranged in catkins. Male flowers are shades of dull yellow and green, while female flowers do not exhibit significant coloring—also lacking both sepals and petals. In the summer, female plants alone produce small, waxy fruit, provided that they are wind pollinated. Drupes can appear gray, white, or dull blue. Wildlife, mostly birds, utilizes them as a source of food. Bayberry fruit remains on shrubs until the following spring, sustaining the shrub with interest in appearance throughout all seasons.

              Learn About Northern Bayberry

              The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List


              Word from the WiSE

              Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

               Biochar: Turning Waste into Soil Opportunity

              This month, we’re bringing you a word on biochar—a carbon-rich material made by heating biomass (like wood chips, manure solids, or crop residues) under low-oxygen conditions. Think of it as “charcoal for soils,” designed not to burn, but to stay stable and interact with soil processes over the long term.

              Why is biochar getting so much attention? First, it can help build soil carbon because a portion of biochar is resistant to decomposition, allowing carbon to remain in soil longer than many fresh organic inputs. Depending on the biochar type and the soil it’s applied to, biochar may also improve water holding, aggregate stability, and nutrient retention by increasing surface area and creating more sites that hold onto nutrients. In acidic soils, some biochar can even act as a mild liming material, nudging pH upward—though the effect varies a lot by feedstock and production temperature.

              A quick note: biochar isn’t “one-size-fits-all.” Some biochar can contain salts or trace contaminants, and fresh biochar may temporarily tie up nutrients if it isn’t “charged” first. A practical tip is to pre-condition biochar by mixing it with compost, manure, or a nutrient solution before application, then incorporate it ahead of planting so it has time to equilibrate with the soil.

              Biochar can be a powerful tool—especially when matched thoughtfully to soil needs and management goals.

              By Zheng Yiling, Soil Science Graduate Student UConn PSLA


              Weather Outlook

              A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

                  Temperature map

              Precipitation Outlook

               


              Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                • Nutmeg State Orchid Society Show and Sale
                  • West Harford Meeting & Conference Center, West Hartford, CT.
                  • March 21 12:00 PM - 5:00 PM
                    March 22 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM

                Educational Opportunities & Workshops


                    The CT Flower & Garden Show 2026

                    The UConn Home Garden Education Office, along with our partners in the UConn Plant and Soil Health Center will be hosting a booth again this year at the flower show!

                    Come visit us in the same location (Booth 417 & 419) to ask gardening questions, have your soil pH tested, and learn about our new facility opening in spring of 2026! 

                    February 19th - 22nd
                    Connecticut Convention Center
                    100 Columbus Blvd.
                    Hartford, CT 06103

                    Volunteers at the HGEC Booth at the CT Flower & Garden Show 2025

                    Our staff will be presenting the following seminars throughout the weekend:

                    Thursday, February 19

                    • Invasive Plants In Your Garden, Lauren Kurtz 
                      • 11:00 AM, Room 11 

                    Friday, February 20

                    • Wild Mushrooms Just for Fun, Pamm Cooper
                      • 12:30 PM, Room 11

                    Saturday, February 21

                    • Goal Orientated Gardening, Heather Zidack
                      • 12:30 PM, Room 11

                    Sunday, February 22

                    • Soil Test to Success: Simple Numbers, Better Gardens, Avishesh Neupane
                      • 11:00 AM, Room 11

                    February Gardening Tips

                    • This is the time to start small-seeded flowers such as begonias and petunias.
                    • If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly.
                    • If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!
                    • If you are overwintering plants into your garage or cellar, check the soil to see if it needs water. If the soil is frozen, it may be in too cold of a spot.
                    • When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.
                    • Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects. 
                    • Now is the time to order bare-root fruit trees. Consider placing an order from one of the CT Conservation Districts Spring Plant sales.
                    • When using salt to melt ice on walks and driveways, spread it carefully to avoid damage to lawns. Consider using sand or sawdust instead. After the snow melts, flush the area around the roots exposed to salt with fresh water.
                    • Inspect hemlocks for woolly adelgid. Plan to apply a dormant horticultural oil treatment in April if the cottony egg masses are found at the base of needles.
                    • Paint the handles of garden tools red or orange. This will preserve the wood and make the tools easier to locate when you lay them down in the garden or on the lawn.
                    • Whether you're shoveling snow, hauling firewood, out for a winter hike or playing in the snow make sure you're taking the proper safety precautions while out in the elements this winter!


                    We're Moving in April 2026

                    New Location: 
                    George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center
                    University of Connecticut
                    Roy E. Jones Building Annex
                    27 Manter Road, Storrs, CT, 06269
                    (In front of UConn Dairy Bar)
                    Map of the Jones Annex across from the dairy bar

                    UConn Home Garden Education Office

                    Horticultural support and education for home garden issues related to plant health, garden pests, general plant care, and more.

                    UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

                    Diagnosis of plant health and pest issues for commercial growers and the public.

                    UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

                    Soil chemistry testing including pH, nutrients, salinity, lime and fertilizer recommendations, and many others.

                    UConn Turf Diagnostic Lab

                    Turf diagnostics for golf courses, athletic fields, or other commercial turfgrass sites

                    What Stays the Same

                    We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

                    What Gets Better

                    Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

                    • One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
                    • Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
                    • Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events
                    Watch for More Information Soon
                    s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

                    This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                    Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Zheng Yiling