Author: Zidack, Heather

Discussing Gardening Resources on CRIS Radio

CRIS Radio: Focal Point 6/1/2026

Heather Zidack from the UConn Home & Garden Education Center talks to host, Stephen Thal, about the cool spring we've had and the number of gardening resources out there for people to explore!

Transcript

00:00:00 Stephen Thal 

Hi, welcome to another segment on Focal Point. This is Steven Thal and we've been hosting many programs lately and we're hoping that you're enjoying them. 

Some of them have been updates on other programs like today is going to be the gardening program of course. 

00:00:19 Stephen Thal 

Every year it's different because a lot is based on the weather and some of the new fertilizers they've developed and some of the new resources. 

00:00:29 Stephen Thal 

For example, you may not be aware of some apps that are available that may help you with your gardening. 

00:00:36 Stephen Thal 

So without further introductions, we're going to ask Heather Zidack from the UConn Plant and Science Center in Storrs, Connecticut to help us put all these facts together. 

00:00:48 Stephen Thal 

And we'd like to thank her for coming on because they're in the process of moving. So that's adding a little more stress, but she always enjoys our programs. 

Heather, what's up? 

00:01:02 Heather Zidack 

Hey, Steven. Thanks for having me today. 

00:01:04 Heather Zidack 

Like you said, we're in the middle of that move, but it's pretty exciting. 

So my office, the UConn Home Garden Education Office in the Plant Science Department has moved to a new place on the Storrs campus. We are directly across from the Dairy Bar. If you're familiar with the UConn Dairy Bar and you ever get to make a trip out here, we are right across the parking lot from them. 

00:01:29 Heather Zidack 

And it's my office, which offers the home gardening advice as well as our soil lab and our plant diagnostic lab. 

00:01:36 Heather Zidack 

So it's really cool to have all of us in the same hallway so that we can work a little bit better to get more plant and gardening information out to the public. 

So it's an exciting time, but I'm happy to be here today to go through some of these plant resources with you as well. 

00:01:53 Stephen Thal 

Okay, so how do you want to start? Is the weather the culprit in all of this or? 

00:01:59 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, it's been a very cold, very cool spring. And so we're seeing a lot of stuff is kind of slow to wake up this year. There are plants that are not leafing out as well as we're used to. 

00:02:17 Heather Zidack 

We've been getting pictures from clients asking us, Is it still alive? What do I do with it? And our biggest thing right now is telling everybody to just wait a couple more weeks. 

00:02:26 Heather Zidack 

We're hoping that the weather is going to warm up a little bit, become a little more consistent so that we can start really getting out there into the garden and so there are plants that are going to start looking like we're used to. 

00:02:39 Heather Zidack 

Different parts of the state are also experiencing very different things. 

So I had a client talk to me about this the other day where their trees are fully leafed out and everything looks great. But as they were driving through the state, they noticed some places where it looks like it's not as fully flushed out yet. 

00:02:55 Heather Zidack 

So a lot of it has to do with the cool. But we also had a drought last fall or at least dry conditions that also contributed to some of it. 

00:03:03 Heather Zidack 

So our biggest thing is just telling people to wait right now and watch things grow. We're hoping that things will be lush and green really soon. 

00:03:13 Stephen Thal 

Okay. So I should mention, perhaps might be early, but people should be aware that there may be resources in their own area that could help them with getting ready for their spring and summer gardening experiences. 

00:03:32 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, absolutely. 

00:03:34 Heather Zidack 

So a couple resources that are available through UConn. There is our office here, as I mentioned, the Home Garden Education Office, and we answer questions via e-mail, telephone, and walk-in visits. If you have plants that are looking, you know, a little unhealthy or you have some garden insects that's eating your tomatoes, for example, and need help identifying it, we can certainly help with that through those three venues. 

00:04:03 Heather Zidack 

There's also regional extension offices, and every county in the state has one. They are staffed by the Master Gardener Program, which is a volunteer-based program. 

Our Master Gardeners do one semester course, 60 hours of volunteer time, and they are very knowledgeable. So they're throughout the state. The Master Gardener coordinators are available to help with some of these things as well. 

00:04:30 Heather Zidack 

If you do have concerns with plant diseases, we have the plant diagnostic lab here in Storrs where samples can be sent in at any time. And our lab with their brand new facility, they're very excited to be looking at setting up some new tests this year as well to expand their services. 

00:04:48 Heather Zidack 

And finally, the soil lab is also here in Storrs. We're all in the same building now.  So they help with like soil nutrition and stuff like that. 

00:04:55 Heather Zidack 

So there's a lot of local places that you can get really good information. 

The extension program is pretty wide across Connecticut, and we're here to help gardeners make the right decisions and identify any issues that are coming up in their garden. 

00:05:10 Stephen Thal 

Now, if they have certain bugs or something, shouldn't they save little containers so they can catch these little varmints and send them off to you? 

00:05:20 Heather Zidack 

We recommend, yes. If there are any pests in the garden, we can take a look at them. 

We recommend that you put them into a little container and put some rubbing alcohol into the container to kill the insect before we take a look at it. But we definitely can. 

00:05:35 Heather Zidack 

Our specialty is in the garden specifically. So if it's in the home or insects that are affecting your pets or things like that, we don't have that expertise, but we can help with anything that is in the garden, yes. 

00:05:51 Stephen Thal 

Okay, so we're ready to go. So what do we need to prepare for a good garden this year? 

00:05:57 Heather Zidack 

So one of the things I wanted to talk about is how everyone gets their information when they're getting ready to start the garden. 

There's a lot of information out there right now, and we have access to so many different resources that it's really important as gardeners to kind of be a little bit, you know, scrutinize your information a little bit, make sure that it's the right source, make sure it's accurate, and things like that. 

00:06:24 Heather Zidack 

There's a couple of different things that are becoming more and more popular as sources for gardening information that I wanted to talk with you about today. We can go through them and talk about things that you should look out for, things that they're good for. 

00:06:43 Heather Zidack 

The first one I want to bring up - It's been around for a long time, but finding your garden information on the Internet is really, really a good source. 

There's a lot of good information out there, but it's really important to be cautious of what you're reading. So if you're especially on social media, you can see a lot of misinformation. You can see a lot of trends and opinions on places like that. 

00:07:10 Heather Zidack 

If you're looking for really accurate gardening information, you want to look at extension websites for extension programs like UConn Extension or any .edu or .gov site. Every state has their own extension program. So those are really good resources that we partner with for research and things like that so that the information is shared and verified across these different programs. 

00:07:38 Heather Zidack 

You want to learn the credentials of who's presenting the information to you. Are they like a horticulturalist or are they looking for just clicks to get your engagement on the internet, right? So are you talking to a, you know, a professor or faculty? You know, someone from the USDA, someone from extension, things like that. 

These people are professionals who are educated in the field, whereas sometimes there's information coming from people who don't necessarily have the background or the research to back up the claims. 

00:08:11 Heather Zidack 

So really important to check your sources, look for those EDUs, those .govs, those extension pages, look at who's giving you the information and then go ahead and verify, find another source on the internet that has that information. 

So maybe you can find it from more than one source and it is accurate, but just be a little bit cautious with what you're looking at to make sure that it's what you are actually looking for and giving you the right information for your area. 

00:08:40 Stephen Thal 

Okay, so now what happens if you don't have a computer? Where can you get the information? 

00:08:46 Heather Zidack 

So a lot of times people can go to libraries to get a lot of that information as well. There are some really good books out there. 

It's a really good thing to bring up that we don't want to forget that gardening books still have a lot of good information. A lot of the times, although we are doing a lot of research and learning a lot of new things, some of the tried and true methods are still going to be the same. 

00:09:11 Heather Zidack 

There's still a lot of factual information in some older texts that we still do today. For example, we still prune trees the same way that we have for many, many years. We still plant our seeds in the same way that we have for many, many years. So going to some of those texts can be a really helpful option as well. 

00:09:33 Heather Zidack 

And libraries will offer you that access to the Internet, access to those those texts. 

00:09:39 Heather Zidack 

The other thing, you can always call us if you have any questions. There's plenty of resources out there for people to get the right information they need. 

00:09:48 Stephen Thal 

Okay. What is your phone number? 

00:09:50 Heather Zidack 

Our phone number is going to be 860-486-6271. Again, that's 860-486-6271 for the UConn Home Garden Education Office. 

00:10:06 Stephen Thal 

Okay, is there anything that's an accessible format that can help people do this? Are they still in the process of putting it together? 

00:10:17 Heather Zidack 

They're still in the process of putting a lot of it together. A lot of UConn's materials, especially in our website, have been updated to be ADA compliant with screen readers and materials like that. So most UConn web pages will have that accessibility available to them. 

Also calling or you can come in anytime we can, you know, print off material for you as well. 

00:10:43 Stephen Thal 

Okay, great. Okay, so now where do we go? 

00:10:47 Heather Zidack 

So a couple more resources that we have. 

One of the things that I did want to mention is the idea of AI, because this is becoming a huge thing. You're hearing about it everywhere. And there is a lot of AI-generated gardening info out there. 

00:11:03 Heather Zidack 

What AI will do to find that information very similar to an advanced Google search, right They will look through whatever information is available. 

So they'll look at commercial stuff, they'll look at personal stuff, they'll look at scientific data, they'll ball it all together and give you an answer. So sometimes it doesn't know what you're exactly looking for. 

It's a good starting point, but you need a little bit more to guide it. 

00:11:27 Heather Zidack 

So if you are going to use AI, even like AI Gemini, Google searches, things like that. Always tell it what information you're looking for and where you're trying to find it from. 

So for an example, I'm looking for how to take care of my lilies from extension sources only. That way it tells it to look through extension EDUs to get all of the information. 

Tell it I'm looking for information on native plants from my local extension. It'll tell you native plants in the area. 

00:12:05 Heather Zidack 

So if you can guide AI in the right direction, it can be a really useful tool. But again, you need to verify that information just like you were looking on the internet. 

00:12:15 Heather Zidack 

Something else that has kind of come up is the idea of AI generated plants. 

We've seen this happen a few times in our daily questions and answers with the public, but sometimes there's pictures out there now of these AI-generated plants that look beautiful and they don't exist. It can lead to heartbreak when you're trying to shop. 

00:12:39 Heather Zidack 

Any signs that it could be artificial would include if there's any missing or extra plant parts, if the flowers are kind of mismatched, if the colors are super brilliant or there's not a lot of uniformity. 

00:12:51 Heather Zidack 

In general, if it's too good to be true, it might be, so you want to take a look to see if you can find more information about it somewhere else. It's really important when you're shopping for your plants. 

00:13:03 Heather Zidack 

There is a Connecticut native and sustainable landscaping guide that exists that you can look up online. And that guide tells you a lot of native plants in Connecticut that are going to be helpful for you to plant. 

00:13:20 Heather Zidack 

There are resources at your local garden centers that can help you find native plants or even exotic ornamental plants, but what fits your garden and your space best. So keep that in mind when using AI. 

00:13:37 Heather Zidack 

The other thing that I wanted to mention, and we talked about this a little bit before I jumped on, was plant apps. Now you've had a little experience with those, right? 

00:13:48 Heather Zidack 

Those can be really good for starting points, especially with plant ID. They're starting to get a little bit smarter. They are being AI infused or however you want to call it. And using these plants can usually get you right in the right direction. 

00:14:06 Heather Zidack 

They often, you'll take a picture and it'll give you a list of what the plant could be. And you can narrow it down from there based on your location, based on other identified structures that maybe you can't see in the image. 

00:14:19 Heather Zidack 

For example, if a stem is like a little bit fuzzy instead of just, you know, sleek and time of year. So those can be really important tangible identifying factors. Other things like smell or overall size, texture, things like that can really help you determine if your app is giving you the right information and help you calibrate it because apps often can miss context clues that pictures might not provide. 

00:14:47 Heather Zidack 

So, for example, if you take a picture of a plant and there's no size reference on it, the app may determine that it's bigger or smaller than what it really is. There is a plant out there called giant hogweed, which there's a lot of anxiety about. And it can get up to like six to eight feet tall. It flowers later in the fall or later in the summer, sorry.  

And a plant app could pick it up. But there are a handful of lookalikes that bloom at different times of year. They bloom at different sizes. And they are just not the same. 

And then a photo may not give you that information. 

00:15:32 Heather Zidack 

So with plant apps, you always want to use them as a starting app or a starting point and work from there. 

So it'll give you a list of things that it could be and then you want to verify that it's blooming at the right time of year, it's the right size, it's in the right location to make sure that it is what you're actually being told. 

00:15:53 Heather Zidack 

They unfortunately are not nearly as developed for plant health diagnostics. So they can There are ones that claim to give you an idea of what's wrong with the plant or what it needs, if it needs nutrition, if it needs water, things like that. 

Be really cautious with these. There's just too much nuance at this point. 

00:16:13 Heather Zidack 

So just like when you get sick, not every symptom can be seen and further assessment is needed, especially with plant health. And there's a lot of lookalikes out there. 

00:16:23 Heather Zidack 

So leaf spots can be caused from bacteria, fungi, environmental conditions, all sorts of things that you need to narrow down with additional information. 

So those are better given to a plant pathologist or a plant diagnostic lab, whereas using the apps for identification is really the best use of them right now, keeping in mind that you do those few things to narrow it down. 

00:16:49 Heather Zidack 

The other really good thing the apps are kind of making their way towards is there are some that can help you with your landscaping. 

So with those, you can take a picture of your landscape and they can insert little plants to make it so that you can see what it could look like. That's another really good use of plant apps just to get that information. 

So once you get the information you need, you can start building your garden or managing your garden in a better way. 

00:17:24 Stephen Thal 

Okay. We're interviewing Heather from the UConn Plant and Science Center, but she's trying to give us a lot of good resource information as well as information for planning. 

It's not just throw a few plants in and you're off and running, I think. You have to understand the habitat of your own environment you're working in. 

00:17:50 Stephen Thal 

And she's describing some of these now in order to help. And of course, as we go on throughout the year, different things will come up depending upon the weather changes and depending upon the soil changes too. Correct. 

00:18:09 Heather Zidack 

Yes, so that's a huge thing that we're starting to see and we see first thing in the spring is that temperatures are really important and plants are very sensitive to temperatures both in the air and in the soil, like you mentioned. 

That can be an indicator of when we start putting plants out into the garden. 

00:18:31 Heather Zidack 

When plants are, we see like the soil temperature rise, that's slower to rise than the air temperature. So in early spring, when we start seeing soil temperatures around 50 degrees or so is when we start getting excited and doing things in the garden. 

That's usually when the forsythias bloom. That's a good indicator. 

And at that point we can start planting like our cold crops, our brassicas, our cool season herbs, root vegetables, things like that. They like the soil temperature at like 50, 60 degrees. 

So a lot of gardens by now already have those planted and they're doing pretty well. 

00:19:10 Heather Zidack 

Whereas you have, once we get 50 to 60 degree air temperatures at night, you start being able to bring out more of your warmer season stuff, so your annuals, your hanging baskets, your vegetables that are like peppers and tomatoes, the warm season stuff. 

All of that can start going out when we start seeing nighttime air temperatures at between 50 and 60 degrees. 

00:19:37 Heather Zidack 

The one thing that I tend to caution people about is that once we're at that temperature, it's It's not quite over yet, right? We all know New England spring, there's going to be a random frost somewhere in the equation. 

So you have to be able to cover your plants if they're planted. If we're getting a frost, a lot of plants are susceptible to damage when it's too, too cold. 

00:20:01 Heather Zidack 

So you can cover things with like You know, if you're in a pinch, use a bed sheet or a towel. You can use, you know, just breathable materials. 

You never want to use tarps or plastic. 

And if you do have the opportunity, you want to use some stakes to kind of tent it up so that there's some airflow and some warm air there keeping the plants safe. 

So that's a really good caution. 

00:20:27 Heather Zidack 

If you're out and you're shopping for garden stuff now, you're looking at perennials and shrubs, most of them should be able to go outside the day you purchase them, especially if you're in a garden center where they're storing all of their plants outside. 

Odds are that they've been hardened off and ready for the season to come. 

00:20:44 Heather Zidack 

If you're buying something that is in a greenhouse, it may not be ready and it may need to be transitioned. Best thing to do is to ask your garden center professional for clarification. 

Is this okay to go outside? Has it been growing in a greenhouse all this time? 

Those kinds of things will help you determine whether you can put it outside yet or not. 

00:21:04 Heather Zidack 

Your houseplants definitely may benefit from doing field trips in and outside for a couple of weeks before you get them fully outside. 

00:21:13 Heather Zidack 

One of the things that's really important is if they got full sun in your house, you don't want to put them out in the direct sunlight right away. 

Your window panes tend to filter a lot of light, especially the newer window panes have the UV blocking technology and stuff and they're not getting a full spectrum of light in the same way. 

So you want to put your house plants in a place that has bright indirect light first and give them a couple of weeks to transition before you put them right out in the full sun. 

Plants can actually get sunburned just like we can. So you want to make sure. 

00:21:49 Heather Zidack 

The other thing too, you know, looking at your hanging baskets and things like that, they may also benefit from those little field trips in and outside. They're really easy to move if you've got a frost coming. So that's really good to keep in mind. 

00:22:06 Heather Zidack 

So that's some shopping tips right now of like what can go outside and what can maybe hang back for a little while longer. 

00:22:15 Stephen Thal 

That's great. A lot of good information. 

And of course, plants and gardening, that's a huge field. Even if you're going to be doing smaller things inside. 

00:22:28 Stephen Thal 

Do they ever do herbs as houseplants or they have to be outside? 

00:22:35 Heather Zidack 

Herbs are great for indoors as well as outdoors. They don't get too big. They don't necessarily require as much sun as some plants. 

00:22:48 Heather Zidack 

In general, when we're looking at plants, the more showy their flowers, the more light they tend to need. 

Now there's exceptions to every rule, but a lot of plants, especially our herbs, our vegetables, the more that they produce fruit and flower, the more sunlight they need. 

00:23:07 Heather Zidack 

The great thing with things like herbs like basil and parsley, they do produce flowers, but that's not ever what we're looking for from them. 

So by keeping them on a windowsill, they will get enough sunlight to produce the leaves. That's what we're looking for for culinary purposes. And so those can be a really good thing. 

00:23:26 Heather Zidack 

They can also be great if you're just getting into gardening. They seed really quickly, they don't take up a lot of space, and it's a really good chance to learn on something that's kind of easy. 

00:23:39 Stephen Thal 

That's good. Any other interesting things we need to look at for this year? 

00:23:45 Heather Zidack 

Yeah. Well, for this spring, looking ahead, couple of cautions that I have for people is to avoid pruning anything that blooms in the spring just yet. 

We do have phone calls occasionally at this time of year where people are asking if they can prune their lilacs, their hydrangeas, their azaleas, rhododendrons, things like that. 

And right now we recommend that you wait. 

00:24:13 Heather Zidack 

If you prune too early on a lot of these plants, you could lose their flowers for the season. They actually do set their buds in the fall. So those flower buds are already there and if you cut them back, you could be removing flowers. 

So even those hydrangea sticks look really ugly, give them a little more time. They could have flower buds on them and you wouldn't want to miss them this year. 

00:24:38 Heather Zidack 

Another thing is that it's a great time to divide and transplant your fall and summer blooming perennials. 

Leave your spring blooming stuff because it's in the middle of having its show for the season, but you can move some of those other things still in May. 

00:24:57 Heather Zidack 

Another tip that I give a lot of people is as you're planting, especially vegetable gardens, if you have issues with insects and pests, put netting as you're planting to help. It takes another thing off the list. You don't have to go back and do it later. 

00:25:14 Heather Zidack 

If you do your netting, when you do your planting, it'll help keep those pests away for longer. but depending on what you're planting, you may need to remove those so that pollinators can get in. So always make sure that that's in line and then 

00:25:30 Heather Zidack 

The biggest reminder is to remember to water because as we've seen with different springs, sometimes we get trained if we have a really rainy spring to not get in the habit of watering. 

So even if you don't have to water because there's rain, it's really good to check the soil and make sure that you do or do not need to water. 

00:25:51 Heather Zidack 

So what you can do to do that is you wanna dig up a little bit, take a little handful of soil, squeeze it in your hand. 

If you open your hand and that soil holds shape, then it's probably good on water for a little while longer. 

If you open your hand and it turns to dust or falls apart, is really crumbly, that may need water to supplement. 

And if you squeeze your hand and you have water running out of your hand, you're definitely overwatered and you need to wait until your next watering. 

00:26:20 Heather Zidack 

This can be effective for your house plants as well as your plants in the ground because you can kind of get a gauge of what the soil feels like to help you decide if you need water. 

00:26:31 Stephen Thal 

Boy, a lot of information coming up, especially when people have big gardens they have to manage. What kind of protective gear should people be wearing as they're gardening? Many people forget that's part of the whole process. 

00:26:45 Heather Zidack 

Yeah, it's really important to make sure that you're protecting yourself when you're outside. 

One of the big things that I recommend is make sure you're wearing long pants and long sleeves, just like a lighter material if you can. By doing that, you're going to keep anything from brushing against your skin that might cause an irritation. 

00:27:05 Heather Zidack 

So some people are very sensitive to different plants and it may be that they need a little bit more protection. 

00:27:13 Heather Zidack 

So especially if you're handling a plant that you don't know what it is, long pants, long sleeves, gloves, and closed-toed shoes are a must. 

So those big thickets that you're trying to weed out for the season, make sure that you're fully covered and that your skin is covered because you don't know what's in there necessarily. 

And if you've ever gotten poison ivy, you know that you don't want to get that if you're in a dense kind of thicket area. 

00:27:40 Heather Zidack 

Other important thing, it's really important to wear a hat when you're out in the sun. 

Sunscreen as well to make sure that you are protected from the UV as well as sunglasses can be really important. 

00:27:53 Heather Zidack 

We've seen people though will garden in flip flops and shorts and they can do that too. 

But if you are working in, like I said, especially in an area of your property where you don't know what's growing there, the more covered you can be, the better. 

00:28:09 Stephen Thal 

And also to stay hydrated. 

00:28:11 Heather Zidack 

Yes, super important, especially when we get into those hot days. 

When I worked at the garden center, I used to tell people to water the plants and water yourself. 

00:28:23 Stephen Thal 

Why don't you repeat the numbers one more time? People can call for help. Now, is there a charge for this? 

00:28:30 Heather Zidack 

No, this is a free service. So emails and phone calls to our office are free. 

00:28:37 Heather Zidack 

Our plant diagnostic lab and soil lab have their own payment structures and things, which you'd have to contact them for more information. 

But you can always call us first and we can point you in the right direction if you have any questions. 

00:28:51 Heather Zidack 

So it's just one number to write down for now, and that would be 860-486-6271. Again, that's 860-486-6271. 

00:29:05 Stephen Thal 

Okay, well, we want to wish you success in your move as well as enjoying a new place that makes you give you a breath of fresh air. 

00:29:16 Stephen Thal 

Thank your entire staff for helping with the move as well as others, and thank you for coming on and sharing a few moments of helping us to prepare and plan for this coming spring year, and we hope to get you back in, I guess, the fall. 

00:29:35 Heather Zidack 

Sure thing. Thanks for having me. 

00:29:37 Stephen Thal 

Yep. Take good care. 

00:29:38 Stephen Thal 

This is Steven Thalwith another segment on Focal Point. Thank you for allowing us into your homes. 

00:29:44 Stephen Thal 

We want to thank Heather and her staff for all they do to get this information together and collect it so that we all can benefit from many aspects of their situation. 

00:29:57 Stephen Thal 

Now, phone numbers have been given and we hope you're able to follow up and learn like all of us do. 

00:30:05 Stephen Thal 

In closing, we want to remind everybody to please wear a hat and sunglasses to protect yourself. 

As Heather said, in the garden and everything, you got to wear long pants and long sleeve shirts and do the work mostly in the morning, right? It's the coolest. 

00:30:23 Stephen Thal 

We like to also remind you about emergency planning, especially in your home. or when you're volunteer working, learn about what the emergency plans are and get everybody involved in your family and also practice them. That's the key thing. 

If you need additional resources, contact your local fire and/or police department and they can guide you as to where you can get the best help. 

00:30:52 Stephen Thal 

Again, have a safe summer and be safe, especially against the sun and other things in the garden that may be of hazard. 

Thank you all for listening and have a great great summer. 

 

Wet and Wild: the Complex Lives of Cedar Rust Fungi

By Emily Leahy and Dr. Nick Goltz, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Orange, gelatinous cedar apple rust gall attached to a green cedar or juniper branch, with scaly bark visible in the background.
The telial horns observed on this Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) are beginning to dry up, but their gelatinous form and bold orange color are unmistakable.

We all know that old saying, “April showers bring May fungi!” (No? Just me?). All joking aside, you may have noticed that the recent wet spring weather lead many fungi to break dormancy, release spores, and wind up in new places. While growers and gardeners often find themselves preparing for the season by promoting airflow between plants, increasing soil drainage, and applying preventive fungicides when really needed, it’s hard to deny the spectacle of spring fungi and the beauty they bring to our spring gardens; and few are as spectacular as cedar rusts (Again, only me?)! 

Cedar rusts are flashy diseases caused by multiple species of the fungi in the genus Gymnosporangium. In the case of cedar apple rust, a disease we see all the time here in Connecticut, the causal agent is the fungus Gymnosporangium juniper-virginianaeGymnosporangium is a group of heteroecious fungi, meaning that they require two hosts to complete their life cycles. Species within the Juniperus genus are primary hosts of cedar rusts with plants such as apple, crabapple, hawthorn, or quince usually serving as a secondary host, though close relatives such as pear or chokeberry may occasionally be seen with cedar rust.  

Spores – small reproductive structures produced by fungi – are released from fungal structures to infect other hosts. Cedar rusts, attention seekers that they are, utilize multiple types of spores to get to their host plants of choice. Beginning with the secondary hosts in late summer, spores called aeciospores are produced and distributed by wind and rain, traveling to inoculate nearby juniper trees. Wet, mild weather in early fall creates the perfect conditions for these aeciospores to germinate, eventually resulting in the formation of large galls on the primary host.  

Juniper galls are irregularly shaped structures on the plant and range in color from gray to dark red. Circular indentations are present on the gall’s surface, through which bizarre looking telial horns protrude in the spring the year after the host is first inoculated with the disease. These structures are first colored dark brown and have a dry appearance but later become gelatinous and bright orange as they mature and expand for a brief time during moist spring conditions. The surfaces of telial horns are coated in teliospores which later germinate to form the next important player in the cedar apple rust disease cycle, basidiospores. After releasing spores, the telial horns will dry up and fall off. The basidiospores are then distributed by wind and rain to inoculate secondary hosts such as apples or crabapples. Immature leaves with wet surfaces are the most susceptible targets for infection.  

The next stage of the disease cycle kicks off with yellow-orange lesions that appear on the upper surfaces of leaves. A halo of red tissue may surround the edges of these spots, giving a dramatic bullseye appearance. Tiny, raised, fungal structures known as pycnia develop within the leaf lesions and on fruit surfaces. Pycnia produce pycniospores (notice a theme here?), which leads to the development of aecia during mid-summer. Yellow or brown lesions appear on the underside of leaves, from which the tubular aecia and of course, their aeciospore-covered surface, protrudes. During late summer under dry environmental conditions, aeciospores are released and travel to nearby juniper hosts where the disease cycle begins again.  

You might be thinking, “enough with the spore-talk! What should I do about cedar rusts if I see signs of them?” Rest easy - although cedar rust fungi are complex and dramatic, they typically don’t cause lasting harm, and there are plenty of management strategies available to mitigate their damage. Pruning can be used to promote airflow and eliminate galls from junipers before telial horns have an opportunity to develop, and appropriate fungicides may be applied to secondary hosts as a preventative measure. And for those thinking of purchasing a new tree, know that many apple and crabapple cultivars are available at the nursery with various levels of resistance to cedar rust.  

Have a question about plants? The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant May 30, 2026

Chaos Gardening

By. Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Sunlit meadow filled with tall green grasses and scattered wildflowers, including small pink, yellow, and white blooms, with dense shrubs and trees in the background.
Photo by Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Chaos gardening is a growing social media trend that encourages gardeners to relinquish control, scatter assorted seeds, step back, and see what happens. Instead of carefully spacing plants and planning layouts, chaos gardeners toss seeds and let nature decide what grows where. The results can vary widely, ranging from a surprising assortment of plants to a patch of disappointment. 

Unlike traditional gardening, this approach emphasizes spontaneity over structure. For many, the appeal lies in its simplicity. Chaos gardening is easy to start, requires minimal knowledge, and often relies on leftover or inexpensive seed packets. The low-stakes, experimental nature makes it especially attractive to busy people or those new to gardening. 

Still, the trend raises valid questions. Without site preparation or ongoing care, how well can seeds establish? And does “letting go” invite weeds into the garden under the guise of wildscaping? 

In practice, chaos gardening often produces mixed results. While the concept is appealingly simple, success rates can be low, and plantings may struggle to persist long term. Still, gardeners interested in the trend can improve their chances of success by following a few simple suggestions. 

Avoid using this approach in large or prominent spaces. Start small, either in a container or a less visible area of the yard. To maintain a sense of experimentation, while increasing success, consider focusing on a single species at a time or scattering spring bulbs through an existing lawn. Tossing out a packet of “wildflower” seeds may sound charming, but it will not produce an instant, picture-perfect meadow. More often, it results in a steadfast patch of mugwort.  

Even with a relaxed approach, a bit of planning goes a long way. Key factors such as sunlight and soil conditions still matter. The principle of “right plant, right place” applies regardless of gardening style. Identifying site conditions, selecting appropriate species, and preparing the planting bed can significantly improve outcomes. 

Gardeners should also approach seed mixes labeled “wildflower,” “pollinator-friendly,” or “native” with some caution. While not inherently problematic, these mixes can contain species that are poorly suited to local conditions. A quick review of the species on the list can help inform decisions about whether the plants are suited to the region or growing conditions. 

Learning how to recognize seedlings, including common weeds and invasive plants, is another important step. Early identification allows gardeners to remove undesirable species before they establish. Observing which plants succeed can also guide future efforts, gradually transforming a disorderly patch into a more reliable and productive space. 

Patience is essential. Many perennials grown from seed take more than one season to flower. Including a mix of annuals and perennials can help maintain visual interest while longer-lived plants establish. As with any gardening method, some trial and error is expected. 

Chaos gardening may never replace traditional approaches, but it offers an accessible entry point for beginners and a creative outlet for experienced growers. With a balance of spontaneity and informed decision-making, even an unstructured planting can become a living experiment. 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant May 24, 2026

What to Know Before You Buy Topsoil

By Dr. Avishesh Neupane, UConn Soil Analysis Lab

The word topsoil suggests rich, dark earth that will fix most of what ails a yard. Maybe the lawn never recovered after construction, a new raised bed needs filling, or a bare patch by the driveway still looks more like gravel than garden. Buying a load of topsoil seems like a simple answer to all three. 

But "topsoil" is not a guarantee of quality. Depending on the source, it may be dense, low in organic matter, full of stones, or simply a poor match for the job you have in mind. That means homeowners should buy it with a clear idea of what it can and cannot do. 

The first question is not what to buy, but what problem you are trying to solve. If the real issue is low pH, low fertility, or some other imbalance, another load of soil may not help much. A soil test is an inexpensive way to check pH and nutrient levels before you start adding products. 

If you are filling a new raised bed, topsoil alone is usually not the best answer. A blend of topsoil and finished compost works better than straight compost or straight mineral soil, because the two materials do different jobs. Topsoil provides mineral content, structure, and weight. Compost adds organic matter, holds moisture, and improves tilth. Most unamended topsoil is low in organic matter, which is why a topsoil-compost blend is usually more useful for gardens and landscapes. 

There is no state-run topsoil grading or certification system in Connecticut, so buyers have to ask a few questions on their own. Where did the soil come from? Has it been screened? Is it meant for lawn repair, general grading, or a vegetable garden? Is compost already mixed in, and if so, how much? These answers matter because soil products are not interchangeable: material sold for grading can be fine for filling low spots but a poor choice for a vegetable bed. 

It is also worth thinking about what might come along for the ride. Poorly sourced soil can carry contaminants that are not obvious to the eye, including residues from past land use. Ask the supplier about the soil's origin, and if there is reason for concern, have it tested for lead or pesticide residues before planting. If the product includes compost, ask whether it comes from a reputable testing program, such as the U.S. Composting Council's Seal of Testing Assurance, which requires routine testing for heavy metals and pathogens. There is a biological concern as well. Invasive jumping worms and their cocoons can hitch a ride in soil, compost, mulch, and potted plants, so buying from reputable sources and using heat-treated compost or mulch when possible can help reduce that risk. 

Texture is another simple check. If the material feels sticky and heavy when wet, it may seal up and drain poorly. If it feels very light, peaty, or woody, it may settle quickly after a season or two. Good garden soil, or a good topsoil-compost blend, should crumble easily, drain reasonably well, and still hold moisture. It should smell earthy, not sour or strongly ammonia-like. 

Cost deserves a clear-eyed look as well. Bulk soil is usually cheaper than bagged soil and creates less plastic waste, but the cheapest load may not be the best buy if it leaves you with hard, low-organic-matter material that won't support plant growth well. 

There is one more caution, mainly for gardeners who refresh beds every year. Building organic matter in a tired soil is a good idea, but more compost and manure are not always better over the long run. Repeated heavy additions, especially of manure-based compost, can push phosphorus levels well above what plants can use. That is a problem for water quality if the soil erodes, and it can throw off the balance of other nutrients. A periodic soil test is the best way to know whether a bed actually needs more material. 

For most homeowners, the best results come from matching the material to the job. Test first if you can. Use topsoil for structure and volume, compost for organic matter, and each where it makes sense. For a raised bed, start with a soil-compost blend. To repair a lawn after construction, plan to build organic matter over time with compost, mulch, and returning grass clippings or shredded leaves to the soil. When buying from a bulk supplier, ask questions before the truck shows up. 

Topsoil can be a useful tool, but it is still only one ingredient. Better soil is built, not delivered in a single truckload. 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.       

This article was published in the Hartford Courant May 17, 2026

These are damaging plants to avoid in CT gardens. They can kill native plant species and take over.

These are damaging plants to avoid in CT gardens. They can kill native plant species and take over.

The Hartford Courant – Dr. Lauren Kurtz discusses how native plants attract birds and pollinators, while invasive species harm ecosystems and what residents can do in their own gardens.

Solitary Wasps Found in the Landscape and Garden

By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

Solitary wasps are primarily hunting wasps which are either digger wasps or thread-waisted wasps. Most are seldom aggressive toward people because they are not defending a social colony. Instead, females are busy hunting other insects or arthropods to stock cells for a single larva to feed upon as they develop. Many solitary wasps dig nesting chambers in sandy soils, like the cicada killer and the great golden digger wasps. Others may use hollow pipes, tubes, window ledges or even sliding door tracks (a favorite site for the grass-carrying wasp). 

Many of these wasps are also considered decent pollinators. They are active from June through late summer. The adult wasps die during the year and larvae generally pupate and emerge the following year. Females hunt specific prey such as caterpillars, katydids, cicadas and other insects which they paralyze and stock the nesting chamber with. An egg is laid on or near these future meals, and the larva will feed on them as it develops.  

The great golden digger wasp, Sphex icheneumoneus, is a  large wasp that sports golden hairs on the head and thorax and has a distinctive half orange half black abdomen.  It is harmless to people and is often found on flowers in or near sandy soils where it digs nests for larvae in the ground. Main prey for larvae is katydids.  

Great golden digger wasp with orange legs and a dark body standing on green, spiky flower clusters.
Great Golden Digger Wasp. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

The Eastern Cicada killer, Sphecius speciosus, is one of the largest wasps in North America. It has amber wings and females are most evident in late July and early August as they burrow into sandy soils, leaving behind a squared off entrance and a sandy mound. Deep inside underground, the females have dragged paralyzed cicadas upon which they lay an egg. The larva will hatch and eat the paralyzed cicada. Next summer, after having pupated underground, the adults emerge. The females rarely sting but do alarm many homeowners due to their size and activity in lawns and along sidewalks. 

Large black-and-cream wasp perched on green, finely cut leaves in bright sunlight.
Cicada Killer. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Grass carrying wasps Isodontia spp. create cells from grasses collected by the female. Each cell is stocked with paralyzed tree crickets, katydids and other orthoptera insects. Often packed together, these nesting cells can be found on windowsills, on bases of slider doors and on upper window ledges. Larvae overwinter in these cells and emerge as adults the following year or later that same year if there are two generations. 

The oak apple gall wasp Amphibolips spp female lays an egg inside the tissue of an oak leaf inside which the larvae will hatch. The apple-like gall forms as a response to secretions from the larvae as it feeds on the leaf tissue safely inside. The gall turns brown after the adult wasp emerges. No damage is done to the oak. Cutting open the gall when green will reveal the wasp larva in the center. 

 

Potter Wasp, Eumenes fraternus, females construct a small, rounded clay structure with a neck-like protuberance with a flattened top that makes it look like a tiny pot. After laying a single egg inside the female puts some paralyzed caterpillars and beetle larvae which the larva will eat. She seals the small opening with mud, which will be chewed open when the adult emerges next year. These tiny pots can be found on plants, rocks, pieces of wood and other places. 

Solitary wasps pose little risk to us as they go about completing their life’s work. Defending nests is not a behavior such as is done by social wasps and hornets. Females will sting if handled or alarmed though, so avoid doing that. If digger wasps make you nervous, consider amending sandy soil with organic matter and keeping it moist when females are looking to excavate nesting chambers. Try to tolerate them for the short period of time they are active. Almost all can be found obtaining nectar from flowers in the wild and in cultivated landscapes.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.       

This article was published in the Hartford Courant May 9, 2026

A Familiar Bloom in a Season of Change

By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Light purple lilac blossoms on a shrub in a mulched garden bed.
Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

Spring is the ultimate bringer of change. The restless souls contained within all forms of life begin to awaken, bringing fiery hues back to the formerly dreary expanse of winter landscapes. We meet this shift with a warm welcome, grateful for a chance to start anew. Innately, we crave change, constantly striving towards something greater that will fill a part of ourselves we feel is missing. Also, innately, we are walking juxtapositions. Above our desire for change floats an asterisk, denoting an extraneous condition—our deep fear of the very thing which we wish so desperately for. New experiences bring about uncertainty and inconsistency.  Thus, we cling to that which we find familiar and trustworthy to ground us while careening through the unknown.  

For me, ol’ reliable is the lilac shrub in my backyard. Season after season, I look out my window and am reassured by its presence, whether it is flush with vibrant blooms or displaying its tall barren branches. The leaf and flower buds of common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) are among the first whispers of spring I observe, appearing early in the season.  

Members of the olive family, Oleaceae, lilacs are well suited to life in cold climates—in fact, the chill of winter is essential to their bud development and maturation. Although new plantings take a few years to adjust and establish themselves, these perennial shrubs are equipped with substantial longevity. Common lilacs can live for up to a century, cementing their place as a companion to rely on during every phase of our lives.  

Common lilacs grow rapidly and immodestly, filling their landscape with a dominating sense of confidence. Success is dependent on being planted in sunny locations with moist, well-drained, and neutral to slightly alkaline pH soils.  

The lilac’s blooms are dichotomous, both quietly delicate and also boisterous with a showstopping flair. Flowers emerge between late April and early May. A strong, sweet fragrance diffuses from the quaint petals which cluster together in formations called panicles. Lilac blooms appear in a variety of hues, ranging from lavender to blush pink or even a creamy white.  

Even after the flowers of lilacs retire, matte heart-shaped leaves remain until the fall, painting the tall shrubs with dark green. During the dormancy of winter, gray stems and branches are visible, standing tall and proud even when cold weather casts its icy shadow over the once vibrant landscape.  

Lilacs are relatively self-sufficient yet require some care and attention to maintain their vigor. Susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew and septoria/pseudocercospora leaf spot, it is important to ensure proper airflow throughout plantings to discourage sporulation. Powdery mildew is characterized by gray mycelial growth on leaf surfaces, while septoria/pseudocercospora leaf spot appears as brown spots that expand into broad patches. Insect pests, namely the lilac borer and oystershell scale, also impose their will on lilacs. Borers tunnel and weave through branches, leaving holes and open wounds as evidence of their travels. Oystershell scale refers to small insects, resembling their namesake in appearance, that take refuge on lilac bark. These pests and diseases can commonly be managed through removal and destruction of damaged tissue. In severe cases, additional integrated pest management strategies may be necessary. 

Consistent pruning practices are essential for lilacs to remain healthy throughout every season of change. Lilacs are beings of extreme preparation, developing next year’s buds as soon as the current flowering period is complete. By deadheading blooms promptly after they have run their course, lilacs are able to dedicate more energy to generating healthy flowers for future growing seasons. Renewal pruning is another beneficial technique—cutting back overgrown stems to remove barriers preventing light from reaching inner branches. This encourages new growth and results in lilacs which appear fuller, bursting with color from the inside out. Spring is the most appropriate time to employ these pruning tactics in accordance with lilac’s growing needs. Prune immediately after flowers start to fade for best results. 

Lilacs are a cornerstone of spring, providing a familiar and reassuring sight to ground us when our own lives become unrecognizable. Lilacs and the endless wonders of spring gently remove the asterisk from our desire for change, reminding us to take solace in the familiar while welcoming all that the unknown may bring.  

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.  

This article was published in the Hartford Courant May 3, 2026

Putting Plants Outside, Lilacs, Butterflies & Other May News

Banner reading “May 2026” centered on a dark blue panel, flanked by white spring blossoms against a blue sky on the left and three flagpoles on the right displaying the U.S. flag, a POW/MIA flag, and a UConn flag

“The month of May is the gateway to summer"

— Jean Hersey

Moving Update

The George Leigh Minor Plant & Soil Health Center move has been delayed due to unforeseen circumstances.

The Home Garden Education Office will be closed for walk-in services starting April 27th. Our target reopening date in our new location is now  May 18th. 

For the comfort and safety of our clients, our office will be closed to the public until our re-opening. Please continue to use our phone and email support during this time. If you are planning to send samples to the Plant Diagnostic Lab or Home Garden Education Office, please call ahead for shipping instructions. Thank you for your understanding.

Closures may also impact the Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab and the UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab. Please check with them directly for more information regarding closures during the move.

Due to these shifts in schedule, our May 16th Open House Event has been postponed until Fall 2026.

To accomodate for our adjusted moving timeline and a busy gardening season, our partners in the Plant Diagnostic Lab, the Soil Nutrient Analysis Lab and the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture have decided to wait until Fall 2026 to celebrate our grand opening. Keep an eye out for new dates!


 When Can I Put My Plants Outside?

Green watering can on a small table surrounded by trays of seedlings on a wooden deck.

Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Houseplants

To give your houseplants a refresh and encourage healthy growth, begin acclimating them to outdoor conditions for the upcoming summer. On warm days, move your plants outside, while avoiding locations that endure direct exposure to sun or harsh winds. Once nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50-60°F, it is an appropriate time to begin keeping plants outside overnight.

For plants that prefer a sunnier environment, gradually expose them to locations in direct sun over a period of two weeks. If nighttime temperatures dip below 50°F, move plants inside for the night, being sure to check for insects beforehand. 

Moving Indoor Plants Outside for the Summer

Vegetables

Cool season vegetables including leafy greens, brassicas, and root vegetables may be able to go outside before your houseplants, but they need the same care in transitioning them from inside to out.

If you have warm season plants like peppers, tomatoes or eggplant, be sure to keep them warm just a little bit longer. Peppers, especially, like warm soil and warm air temperatures to grow well.

If your plants aren't ready but you're itching to do something, consider transplanting them into 4 inch pots them so that they can continue to grow comfortably while they wait to go outside.

Keep Your Seedlings Going Strong

Hanging Baskets & Annuals

Annuals are tender and most commonly do best in temperatures similar to our houseplants. When temperatures are consistently above 50-60°F at night, they should be safe to go outside permanently.

There are some exceptions to the rule, like Pansies, and other cool season flowers that may tolerate and even thrive in lower temperatures. We still recommend taking the precautions to harden them off, especially if they were purchased from an indoor setting. 

Selecting, Hardening, and Planting Bedding Plants

Perennials & Shrubs

In most cases, shrubs and perennials should be safe to go out as soon as you purchase them. Especially if they seem to have been stored outside at the nursery. If you're walking through a greenhouse to select your plant material, it may be an indicator that it isn't ready for low nighttime temps and may be especially sensitive to late spring frosts.

First year perennials started indoors or in greenhouses may need to be hardened off, the same way tender houseplants, vegetables and annuals are.  Ask your local nursery professional if you have questions about plant readiness.

Hardening Transplants


 Interesting Insects: Tiger Swallowtail Butterflies

Yellow tiger swallowtail butterfly with black stirpes resting among clusters of pale bluet flowers with yellow centers in a sunlit meadow.
Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Tiger swallowtail butterflies can be seen by late April when crabapples and native little bluets (Houstonia caerulea) are flowering. They visit both flowers for much needed nectar. Bluets often form large stands on lawns and woodland edges where there is a good amount of sun. Tiger swallowtails use small black cherry and tulip trees as caterpillar host plants. They breed as early as May.

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail


 Spring is For Lilacs

Bumblebees on fall blooming lilacs
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

To maintain the striking beauty of your lilacs for many years to come, practice regular pruning techniques. As a spring-blooming shrub, lilacs develop new buds for the next season following the current year’s flowering period is complete.
For this reason, prune immediately after bloom (often in May) to avoid removing next year’s flowers. Deadhead by pruning spent blooms promptly to promote strong flowering next year. Late spring is also the ideal time to practice renewal pruning. Cut back old growth (tall and overgrown stems) at the base, allowing light to reach previously shaded areas.

Over the course of a few seasons utilizing this technique, lilacs will appear fuller and vigorous with new shoots and flowers blooming on lower areas. Lilacs can be shaped according to your preferences by pruning during this time as well.


Native Plant Highlight: Tulip Tree

Yellow-green tulip tree flower with orange stamens opening among bright green, lobed leaves on a sunlit branch; a small “© Pamm Cooper” watermark appears in the lower right
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home Garden Education Office

The tulip tree Liriodendron tulipifera, commonly known as yellow poplar or tulip poplar, is a fast-growing, deciduous native of eastern North America that belongs to the Magnolia family.

It has attractive green, yellow, and orange flowers in May that resemble tulips. It is one of the largest North American native trees and sometimes reaches over 200 feet in height. Its leaves are distinctive, forming a broad, flat apex that ends at right angles to the midvein.

Learn More About Tulip Tree

The CT Native Plant Availability List: Updated and even MORE user-friendly!

This native plant guide was created to assist municipalities, conservation organizations, homeowners, landscape architects, designers, and contractors with locating native plants for habitat restoration and wildlife enhancement.

The Connecticut Native Plant Availability List, by UConn Extension and CT DEEP Wildlife Division, identifies nurseries and garden centers that grow/sell native trees, shrubs, and perennials. Along with several nurseries that are new to the list, we have also added the ability for users to view the Availability List sorted by Nursery!

CT Native Perennial, Tree & Shrub Availability List


Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

Soil Mates: Finding Your Perfect Topsoil Match

From homeowners to landscapers, farmers to developers, many purchase topsoil for
their yearly plants and projects. Topsoil is the surface layer of soil, and can range in thickness from zero to twelve inches depending on how much the soil is worked. Deciding which topsoil you purchase can make or break your season, and inspection is important! Before committing to one topsoil, take a look at the soil stock pile and make sure there is no trash, large rocks, or debris. Soil texture, or the ratio of sand, silt, and clay in a soil, can greatly impact your topsoil. Some great soil textures for your topsoil include loamy sands, loams, silt loams, and sandy clay loams. Many other factors could influence the success of your topsoil, including organic matter and possible amendments. Purchasing a quality topsoil is vital to your soil health, so make sure you get the perfect match!

By Zaira O’Leary, Soil Science Master’s Student, UConn PSLA


Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

Monthly Temperature Outlook Map of United States
Monthly Precipitation Outlook Map of United States

We Need Your Input!

The UConn Home and Garden Education Center is asking for your input to help guide future programs and services. Please take a few minutes to complete our needs assessment survey and share what topics, resources, and support would be most helpful to you.

Your feedback will help shape upcoming educational offerings and strengthen our ability to serve Connecticut gardeners.

Thank you for your feedback!

If you have any questions about this survey, please email us at ladybug@uconn.edu

Take the Survey!


Upcoming Events and Things to Do


            Join Us at Upcoming Talks

            Gardening for Butterflies with Pamm Cooper
            May 7, 2026 - 6:00 PM
            Plainville Library
            56 East Main St, Plainville, CT 06062Good Bug/Bad Bug/Benign Bug with Pamm Cooper
            May 11, 2026 - 1:00PM
            Hosted by the Redding Garden Club
            Redding Community Center
            37 Lonetown Rd, Redding CT 06896

            May Gardening Tips

                  • Remove spent blooms on tulips, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs. The plant will focus its energy on growing new bulbs rather than producing seeds
                  • Plant dahlias, gladioli, cannas and other summer flowering bulbs
                  • Lift, divide and replant late summer and fall-blooming perennials such as asters, mums, and sedum
                  • Disinfect all pots and containers before refilling them for the season
                  • Check to see if your houseplants are root bound. Water them thoroughly and carefully remove them from their pots. If the roots have compacted around the outside of the root ball, it is time to repot.
                  • Have frost protection fabric or cloches, such as you can buy at garden stores, ready for unexpected late spring frosts
                  • Do not use a pre-emergent weed control if you are trying to germinate seeds in the same area.
                  • Check family members and pets for ticks after being outside, especially when in tall grass or wooded areas. If necessary send ticks to the Connecticut Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory for testing.
                  • Hummingbirds and orioles return to northern states by mid-May. Clean and refill feeders to attract these colorful birds to your backyard or fill hanging baskets with flowers that will attract them such as petunias, salvia, and fuchsia
                  • Disinfect bird baths with a 10 to 1 solution of water and bleach. Rinse well.
                  • Add water lilies to your pond when the water temperature reaches 70° F.


                  We're Moving in May 2026

                  New Location: 
                  George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center
                  University of Connecticut
                  Roy E. Jones Building Annex
                  27 Manter Road, Storrs, CT, 06269
                  (In front of UConn Dairy Bar)
                  Map of the Jones Annex across from the dairy bar

                  UConn Home Garden Education Office

                  Horticultural support and education for home garden issues related to plant health, garden pests, general plant care, and more.

                  UConn Plant Diagnostic Laboratory

                  Diagnosis of plant health and pest issues for commercial growers and the public.

                  UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory

                  Soil chemistry testing including pH, nutrients, salinity, lime and fertilizer recommendations, and many others.

                  UConn Turf Diagnostic Lab

                  Turf diagnostics for golf courses, athletic fields, or other commercial turfgrass sites

                  What Stays the Same

                  We will continue to provide the professional and research-based support you’re used to, just in a convenient, central location. Our science-based testing protocols and result-driven recommendations reinforce our commitment to serving growers, landscapers, and the public with their plant and soil health issues.

                  What Gets Better

                  Combining current programs all under one roof provides an opportunity for more collaboration, outreach, and educational opportunities for our stakeholders.

                  • One easy-to-find location for soil, plant, and turf sample submissions
                  • Future expansion of diagnostic services available for plant and soil health analysis
                  • Collaboration between programs and increased opportunities for public outreach events
                  Watch for More Information Soon
                  s.uconn.edu/plant-soil

                  This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                  Pamm Cooper, Lauren Kurtz, Emily Leahy, Zaira O'Leary, Heather Zidack

                  Keep Your Seedlings Going Strong! 

                  By Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office 

                  So, you started your seeds, have been watching them attentively, and spring is knocking at the door. It’s still a little too early to put some things outside, but overzealous gardeners may find themselves swimming in seedlings that need management. Consider taking these steps to help you and your seedlings find a comfortable compromise as they wait to go outdoors. 

                  If you haven’t done so already, thinning your seedlings is an important step in ensuring that the plants you put in the ground will be robust and strong. As a fellow gardener, I’m familiar with the pain of disposing of “perfectly good seedlings.” However, this isn’t an entirely true belief. Seedlings that are not thriving in optimum conditions, may be indicating to you that they aren’t strong for planting in the garden.  

                  Thinning prevents crowding and allows for more air flow between seedlings. When crowded, seedlings compete for water, nutrition, light, and space. By thinning, we ensure that plants have enough resources to grow healthy. Thinning also helps to encourage airflow, which can reduce the risk of fungal development. Fungal pathogens can lead to issues like “damping off,” and other plant diseases that put your seedlings at risk.   

                  You may decide to thin your plants by snipping out weaker seedlings at the base. If you have the heart, the patience and the amount of valuable bench space to dedicate to extra seedling trays or containers, you may decide to carefully tease apart seedlings and replant them for one last chance. 

                  Green watering can on a small table surrounded by trays of seedlings on a wooden deck.
                  Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home Garden Education Office

                  Your strongest seedlings should be potted up into a larger container to encourage them to continue to grow. Putting seedlings into 3- or 4-inch pots (or recycled plastic cups with holes in the bottom) gives them a little bit extra wiggle room while we wait out these temperature fluctuations of a New England spring. Extra space for the root zone will allow the plants to continue to expand. More roots mean more water and nutrient uptake, leading to healthy growth. This practice may also help reduce watering needs on your part, since there is more media to hold moisture in the root zone.  

                  Are your tomato seedlings getting leggy? You can bury the stems of the tomato seedlings to help promote adventitious root development. Remove the cotyledons and any small leaves that you intend to bury below the soil line. Make sure to leave at least one third of the plant’s total height above the soil line to continue healthy growth. 

                  To this point, our seedlings have grown in optimum conditions, or as close to optimum as we’ve been able to provide. Not only have these conditions been ideal, they’ve also been consistent. When your plants get out to the garden, the new environment may be shocking. Hardening off is a process of transitioning them from their ideal growing conditions, into a more realistic environment. Any plant, whether it is a new seedling, a beloved houseplant, or a sheltered patio tropical, needs this transition when moving from inside to outside.  

                  Take your plants on “field trips” during warm spring days by placing them outside in a location with bright, indirect light. Full sun may be too strong for seedlings that have been acclimating with grow lights or through sunny windows so introduce direct light incrementally.  

                  Using cold frames can help to transition your plants from indoors to outdoors. These small, unheated enclosures use the sun’s energy to store heat like a greenhouse. This helps to reduce the drastic temperature swing of nightfall and insulate plants from frosts during the temperamental spring season. Crack them open during warm days for ventilation and to help start reducing humidity.  

                  When conditions are right for hardening off and planting your seedlings, continue to monitor weather conditions. Late spring in New England has been known to throw us a cold snap or two. If frost/freeze warnings occur, bring in potted plants and use a frost cover or breathable fabric to cover in-ground plants as frost protection. Garden stakes will help keep fabric from directly touching your plants and help create a warm air pocket around them to survive those incidental cold nights. 

                  Spring in New England is a season of transition. Warm days may signal planting time, but cool nights and shifting conditions remind us to move forward carefully. By thinning crowded seedlings, giving roots room to grow, and easing plants gradually into outdoor conditions, gardeners can help reduce stress and build resilience. A little patience and flexibility now can pay off with healthier transplants, stronger growth, and a more successful garden as the season continues to unfold. 

                  The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.      

                  This article was published in the Hartford Courant April 26, 2026