Author: Zidack, Heather

A Beginner’s Guide to Orchids

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By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Cymbidium Orchids
Cymbidium Orchids. Photo by dmp2024

Orchids, with their captivating beauty and elegance, have long held a revered status among plant enthusiasts. If you’re tempted to dive into orchids, this is the perfect time to explore what’s available as it is orchid show season. Those looking for a day trip might want to explore Florals in Fashion at the New York Botanic Garden until April 21. Closer to home, the CT Orchid Society holds its show April 20-21 at the Bristol Senior Center.

Often associated with exotic locales and intricate care routines, these plants are surprisingly adaptable and many can thrive in the comfort of your own home. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a novice looking to add a touch of sophistication to your indoor space, cultivating orchids can be a rewarding endeavor.

Orchids belong to one of the largest and most diverse plant families, Orchidaceae, comprised of over 25,000 species. They come in various shapes, sizes, and colors, but broadly speaking, orchids can be categorized into two main groups based on their growing habits: epiphytic and terrestrial. Epiphytic orchids grow on trees and absorb their moisture and nutrients mostly from rain. They are usually found in tropical rainforests and need a specialized bark based growing medium. Terrestrial orchids grow in soil and while the most spectacularly colored ones come from the tropics, we are fortunate to have native terrestrial orchids such as lady slippers.

Another important distinction among orchids is their growth pattern, which can be classified as sympodial or monopodial. Sympodial orchids grow horizontally sending out new shoots or pseudobulbs from a rhizome or creeping stems. Cymbidiums and dendrobiums are species that exhibit this behavior. Monopodial orchids grow vertically, with a single stem that continues to elongate as the plant matures. Paphiopedilum and vanda species have this growth habit. Understanding these distinctions can help you tailor your plant care routine to suit the needs of your orchids.

The key to growing orchids successfully in the home is understanding the conditions they need to grow and thrive. These will vary according to the species but in general orchids need bright, indirect light. East and south windows usually supply ample light, but a sheer curtain may be needed to keep orchids out of hot sun from south windows during the summer. Direct sunlight may burn their leaves. Orchids also do well under artificial light.

Next to light, temperature is critical as some like it hot and others thrive in a cooler environment. It makes the most sense to select the orchid species that would do well in the temperature range you prefer. Most species, however, are happiest if there is a 5 to 10 degrees drop in night temperatures.

Orchids also tend to do best in more humid environments and our homes are mostly on the dry side. Consider using a humidifier, using pebble filled trays under plants or even growing plants in ornamental glass cases.

Making sure your orchids are receiving the proper amount of watering can be challenging to beginners. Terrestrial orchids are usually grown in an orchid bark & enriched potting soil mix and need to be kept moist but not overly wet. Epiphytic orchids in orchid pots with bark or attached to slabs of tree ferns can be drenched or dunked and then drained. The roots should not sit in water very long. Some experimentation will be needed to determine frequency of waterings.

Phalaenopsis Jungo Magenta
Phalaenopsis Jungo Magenta. Photo by dmp2024

There are so many species of orchids to choose from but beginning orchid enthusiasts might start off with dendrobium species. Dendrobiums are one of the largest and most diverse orchid genera made up of numerous species as well as hybrids. They are even sold at my local grocery store. Dendrobiums are known for their brightly colored flowers that usually bloom in clusters along long stems. They are relatively easy to care for and tolerate typical household conditions.

Phalaenopsis orchids are another large genus that are tolerant of a range of household conditions so are ideal for beginners. Plants can tolerate a little less light than many other species so east windows work well. Nighttime drops in temperature are important to initiate new flower stalks.

Those with cooler growing spaces might want to try Cymbidiums. These plants are just gorgeous in bloom with their long-lasting sprays of colorful flowers. Cool temperatures and bright light are keys to healthy, floriferous plants.

Lady slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum) have distinctive pouch-shaped blooms, similar to our native lady slippers. They are terrestrial orchids preferring a very well-draining potting mix and indirect light.

If orchids are just too alluring, try to attend an orchid show or two, visit local garden centers that sell orchids and can answer your questions about them, or even check out the resources at the American Orchid Society (https://www.aos.org/) to find out information about caring for these beautiful, mysterious and addictive plants. For basic orchid information or if you have any other gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr,uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

The Do’s and Don’ts of Early Spring Gardening

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By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center 

There’s a well-known scene in the movie “Braveheart” where Mel Gibson’s character, commands his men to “Hold!” as the enemy is rushing upon them. It’s a scene that I often reference as an analogy for this part of the year. Daylight savings time has changed our clocks, the sunshine is warm, temperatures are reaching the “light jacket” level of comfortable, and we all feel spring rushing towards us with the promise of seedlings, flower buds, and fresh green leaves. With this, there are certainly plenty of chores that we can do right now to prepare, but there are others that we really should be waiting for a few weeks longer.  

Houseplants may enjoy a short afternoon in the outdoor sunlight on these warmer days but resist the urge to put them outside full time until night temperatures consistently reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The occasional day trip is an effective way to help them transition from the protection of your indoor environment to full sun outdoors. More importantly, consider giving your houseplants a good spring cleaning. Repot or divide root bound plants, remove the winter dust from leaves with a damp rag, and trim out any dead or unsightly growth. Now they’re ready for their spring debut! 

Fertilizing is another task that many gardeners feel may be a chore to check off their lists early. This is a project that should wait a little bit longer. Often, fertilizer will push new growth in your plants. Pushing them too early can leave tender leaves and buds at risk of exposure to frost and freezing temperatures, actively slowing or stunting growth that you intended to give a boost to. In the same vein, grub control, pre-emergent, and many other synthetic materials used in the landscape require specific soil temperatures to be effective and it’s still just too cold. Always read the label of any garden product to learn the best timing of any application. At this point in the year, consider doing a soil test. If you haven’t done so before, it's great to have a baseline for planting and caring for your garden. If you’ve done it a few years ago – check it again! Things change and you may be surprised by what nutrients you need (or don’t) since you last checked in. 

It may still be a little early for mulch as well. Adding fresh mulch too early in the season can trap moisture and slow the soil from warming up to optimum growing temperature. Take this time to pull out grass and weeds that may have taken root in mulched beds and put this time into your hardscape. Look for tripping hazards to address like cracked, sinking, or heaved pavers. Check structures like pergolas, sheds, and even raised beds for rotting boards, warping, or structural damage. Repair as needed. Building new garden spaces is always an option! Create your punch list of projects that will need fresh paint or sealant. If the weather is going to be warm and sunny – consider power washing hardscapes and structures now. 

Newly constructed raised beds
Newly constructed raised beds ready for spring! Photo by HZidack

Late winter/early spring is a fantastic time for pruning trees and shrubs in the landscape. It’s ideal because there is great visibility, and the cooler temperatures prevent disease and insects from taking advantage of fresh wounds. You want to make sure you’re pruning correctly, for the species and purpose of the trees and shrubs in your landscape – so do your homework! As a rule of thumb, roses, hydrangeas, and some hardy perennials tend to appreciate a later pruning and can vary between types within the species, so stay aware of what you have on your property to ensure success!  

“But when do I get to play in the dirt?” That's next! For our outside plants, think about dividing perennials. Divisions at this point in the year make the plants much easier to handle for the gardener. Moving your plants now gives them a chance to “wake up in place” this spring. You will reduce concerns with transplant shock when you move plants ahead of their spring flush and our summer heat. 

Indoors, stepping your seedlings up into larger containers gives them a little more breathing room as we wait for the season to start. Only transplant seeds when they’ve started to show 2-3 sets of true leaves and keep in mind that different species can have different needs. If you excitedly started your tomatoes too early, and now notice leggy stems, try transplanting them in plastic cups and burying them all the way up to their first couple sets of true leaves. They will put out even more roots along that covered stem and be even better prepared when you put them in the garden this season!  

Seedlings transplanted into plastic cups.
Seedlings that are leggy can be moved into plastic cups with holes in them and buried. Photo by H.Zidack 

There are still plenty of projects that can be done while we wait for spring to come! If you have questions on spring garden projects or any other gardening topic, feel free to contact us, toll-free at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6247, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center. 

Celebrate the Year of the Squash – 2024

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Celebrate the Year of the Squash – 2024
By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Tomatoes and peppers certainly have a wide and varied selection of species, cultivars and varieties but I think squash beats them both out when it comes to sizes, shapes, colors and uses. Perhaps that’s one reason why the National Gardening Bureau decided to make 2024 the year of the squash.

Squash is an ancient crop possibly grown as long as 10,000 years ago in Central and South America. The name ‘squash’ was derived from a Narragansett word, ‘askutasquash’ meaning eaten uncooked or raw. All squash – summer squash, winter squash, pumpkins and gourds – belong to the Cucurbitaceae family. Vining types were included as one of the three sisters (corn, beans & squash) in indigenous plantings as each provides a benefit for the other two plants.

Not only are squash easy to grow but many types are a great source of vitamins, minerals and carotenes. Three main groups of squash are commonly found in home gardens. Cucurbita pepo includes zucchini, summer squash and spaghetti squash varieties all with a soft, edible shell and seeds. These do not store well and are typically consumed within a few days of picking.

'Butta' yellow zucchini squash.
'Butta' yellow zucchini squash. Photo by dmp2024

C. maxima is a large group with pumpkins and easily recognized winter squashes like buttercup, Hubbard, and turban varieties. Mature fruits have tough skins that would be peeled, their seeds are hard but could be enjoyed roasted, and they can store for months.

C. moschata includes butternut, a favorite of many, as well as futsu and a tetsukabuto hybrid. A great feature of this species is that they are resistant to squash vine borer, a pesky moth that lays eggs at the base of plants. Larvae that hatch from the eggs burrow into stems usually to the demise of the plant. I’ve been excited about growing ‘Autumn Frost’ as it has that classic butternut taste, but fruits are only 5 to 6 inches wide and high making it perfect for small families or stuffing.

While you can purchase transplants of both summer and winter squash at many places selling seedlings come spring, there are so many fine, exciting varieties to choose from, I suggest starting with seeds. All varieties of squashes are warm season plants so wait until the soil temperature warms up to at least 65 F. Usually this is around Memorial Day but some years, it might be a week or so earlier. Seeds are planted one-half to 1 inch deep.

Like most vegetables, squash prefer a sunny site, well-drained soil fortified with organic matter, a soil pH in the mid 6s and adequate amounts of water during the growing season.

Depending on how large your garden is you may want to plant squash in rows or in hills. A hill is just a planting of 3 to 5 seeds. It does not need to be mounded. Many gardeners prefer the hill approach as some squash plants can get quite large and this saves some room. Personally, I like to plant one seed each of a green, a yellow, and a white cultivar of zucchini in a single hill for good looks and good eats. Another reason for planting in a hill is that the squash varieties that are susceptible to the squash vine borer could be kept under row cover until the borer season is over, usually around July 4th.

A hill of squash with a row cover over it.
A hill of squash with a row cover over it. Photo by dmp2024

Usually, your zucchini and other summer squash start maturing about 50 days after they have germinated. Winter squash and pumpkins will take 80 to 105 days to mature. How quickly the summer squash grow is one of the wonders of nature. Be sure to check plants every 2 or 3 days and pick fruit when small and less seedy.

Most squash are monoecious which means male and female flowers are produced on the same plant. The male flowers are produced first and held on long stems to attract pollinators. Female flowers are closer to the crown and have mini-fruits at their base. It takes several visits from bees for pollination to occur. Fruits that are incompletely pollinated will shrivel and die. One golden zucchini, ‘Easy Pick Gold II’ is parthenocarpic, which means fruits can develop without fertilization.

Powdery mildew is a very common disease of cucurbits. Look for varieties labeled as resistant or plan on using low toxic control sprays such as neem oil, potassium bicarbonate or Serenade™.

As you’re planning this year’s vegetable garden and purchasing seeds, give a few different squash a try. If you have questions on growing squash or on other gardening topics, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Shamrocks, Pruning and other March News

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March is for Shamrocks, Pruning & Building Raised Beds!

"Gardening is the only unquestionably useful job." 

- George Bernard Shaw, Irish Dramatist

Shamrocks, Clovers & Oxalis, Oh My!

Green Oxalis and Red Oxalis plants
Oxalis. Photo by dmp2024

For every 10,000 three-leaf clover, you'll find one or two four-leaf clover. These odds explain the "luck" behind the tradition of finding one! While the popular St. Patrick's Day symbol is seen everywhere in the month of March, have you ever stopped to think about the botany behind the symbol?

The beloved shamrock, four-leaf clover and the Oxalis houseplant all have their own identities, but when St. Patrick's Day hits, they all become interchangeable. So what's the real difference?

The Botany Behind the Shamrock

Prune your Fruit Trees

Late Winter/Early spring is a great time to be pruning your fruit trees! By keeping your fruit trees properly maintained, you can encourage air flow, healthy branch growth, and productive yields each season. There are a lot of factors that go into pruning your trees "the right way," and different gardeners may have different needs to be met. One of the most important things you can do is remove any dead, dying, or weakened branches. To read about all the considerations that play into pruning decisions, check out the link  below.

UMaine: Pruning Fruit Trees

Building Raised Beds Safely

Raised beds can be the pride and joy of many home gardeners. They come with many advantages:

  • Using raised beds can combat poor soil conditions
  • Less bending or kneeling for gardeners
  • Extend the growing season by combining methods like cold frames or plastic covers over the raised beds
  • They can be either a temporary or permanent fixture in your garden

When it comes to building raised beds, there are many options out there. Prefabricated beds are on the market as a quick "pop up" option. Meanwhile, others like to construct their beds themselves using various materials like cinder blocks, pallets, or fence panels. Whenever you're building your raised beds, be sure to consider the safety of the material you're using. Avoid pressure treated wood materials and take caution when using concrete products. Look for pallets with the "HT" symbol on them, indicating they have been heat treated instead of chemically treated. 

If you already have beds made with these materials, don't panic! There are options to help you "seal" your beds to keep your plants safe from chemicals that may leach into the soil. For example, latex paint will help minimize the contact of the material with the soil. Some wood stains and even plastic sheeting can also be used. 

To learn more about raised bed material safety, read the fact sheet below.

The Safety of Materials Used to Build Raised Beds

Native Plants that Support Native Bees in Early Spring

Cellophane bee on black willow flower in early springCellophane bees (Colletes inaequalis)are one the first of our native bees to be out and about on a warm day in very early spring, sometimes when there is still some snow on the ground. Their flight normally coincides with native willow blooms, which are one of only a few native plants that may be blooming in March. These ground- nesting solitary bees are active for a few weeks, and other native plants like bloodroot, red maple and Amelanchier are visited by these bees. They also can be seen on crocus and other early blooming spring bulbs.

Where to find these and other native plants is a common question that we get here at the Home & Garden Education Center. As gardeners become more aware of native plant solutions, we are seeing more widespread availability. The Connecticut Native Tree and Shrub Availability List is a fantastic resource to help you find both plant recommendations and nurseries that may carry these plants! 

Learn more about Colletes inaequalis

Wildlife Highlight: Eastern Phoebe

Eastern Phoebe on a branch

Eastern phoebes are native tyrant flycatchers in the Tyrannidae family. Characterized by its large head and a habit of wagging their tail when perched. Phoebes are among the first of our migrating birds to return in early spring. People often mistake the similar chickadee call for the raspier “phoebe” call. They build their nest on sheltered ledges, often on buildings. While primarily insect eaters, phoebes occasionally eat ticks, spiders, fruits, and seeds.

Learn More About the Eastern Phoebe

UConn's Brewing Innovation Initiative Talks Hops

Hops flowers sprinkled around beverages

Hops farming in the northeast goes all the way back to the 16th century. Now, the College of Agriculture, Health and Natural Resources at UConn is working with experts in the craft brewing industry and growers tohelp bring the brewing industry to the next level here in Connecticut!

Read more about Hops and what UConn is doing to get involved at the link below! 

Come on, Get Hoppy!

March 2024 Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns will continue to shape this winter season. 

Monthly Temperature Outlook March 2024

Monthly Precipitation Outlook March 2024

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

Maple sugar house

  • March 16th & 17th is Maple Weekend here in Connecticut! Many local sugarhouses will be open or hosting events this weekend. Find your local sugar house on the Maple Syrup Producers Association webpage.
  • Check in with your favorite garden center! March & April are common opening months to start getting your plant fix!
  • The Scantic Spring Splash is March 30th. Spectate or join in this canoe & kayak race to kick off spring!
  • Visit Elizabeth Park's 2024 Spring Greenhouse Show March 1st-March 8th
  • March 2nd - Early Spring Garden Planning Event at the Waterford Public Library​​
  • March 30th - Vernal Pool Hike. Join DEEP Outreach Biologist Paul Benjunas and Naturalist Laura Rogers-Castro for a hike along the Beaver Marsh Trail to a vernal pool. ​​​​​​

Educational Opportunities & Workshops

  • March 9th - Wildlife in Connecticut's Changing Landscape. Paul Colburn, a CT DEEP master wildlife conservationist, presents a natural history of Connecticut from the early 1600’s, when European colonists arrived, to the present. ​​​

March Gardening Tips

1. Using sterile growing mix for starting seeds reduces problems with damping-off fungi. Avoid overwatering, which encourages root rots.

2. Seeds of cold weather vegetables like spinach, peas, lettuce and broccoli can be direct seeded as soon as soil is workable.

3. Before new shoots emerge, cut back last year’s stalks on perennials and grasses.

4. Move woody plants before they begin new spring growth; transplant as soon as the soil is workable.5. Begin fertilizing houseplants with a water-soluble fertilizer as they resume active growth.

6. If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!

7. Once your garden beds thaw, remove old garden debris such as leaves, stalks, and seed heads to reduce the presence of any overwintering diseases and pests.

8. Thin bramble plantings (raspberries, blackberries, etc.) to increase air circulation and reduce stem and leaf disease problems.

9. Clean out bluebird houses! They start looking for nesting spots in early March.

10. Start cleaning containers and pots so they are ready for planting. Inspect for chips and cracks.

Did You Know...

Nursery wholesalers and greenhouse growers may sometimes have different product lines for independent garden centers and big box stores. 

As you start your garden shopping this spring, consider shopping at different locations to find new and unique plants for your projects! 

Different varieties of Basil plants

This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

 

Prune Now for Beautiful Summer Trees

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Prune Now for Beautiful Summer Trees
By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Person cutting a tree with a hand saw
Photo by arborday.org

Winter is a great time for gardeners to plan for their next growing season. Many think that planning can only be done inside. Not so. Now is an ideal time to prune deciduous landscape trees. The absence of leaves gives a clear view of the canopy above and allows for a clear assessment of a tree’s structure and any problems that may be present. In addition, there are no pests present in winter, and disease spread will be slowed by the cold weather. But before heading outside with those loppers and pruning saws, there are a few important things to know and consider.

It's important to understand the tree’s anatomy. A typical deciduous landscape tree will consist of three main parts: the leader, the scaffolding branches and the lateral branches. The leader is the dominant vertical branch of the tree. This is easily spotted as the straight, most upward growth from the trunk. The leader is the tree’s most important branch, crucial for the tree’ structure, photosynthesis, and even distribution of nutrients. Scaffolding branches emerge from the trunk and the leader to make up the canopy of the tree. Secondary branches that grow from the scaffold branches are called lateral branches. Once you understand the basic structure of the tree, it’s much easier to successfully prune it.

Tree Anatomy

Photo from Virginia Cooperative ExtensionFirst, assess the tree. What species of tree is it? That will reveal its natural structure, something your pruning should ideally strive to support. Note though, that proximity to buildings or human activity nearby is likely to influence your pruning strategy (keeping scaffolding branches clear of buildings, for example, or making sure people can walk under the lowest branch?)

Locate the leader of the tree and look for problem branches. Dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing branches should be pruned first. When pruning dead or diseased branches, make cuts into healthy wood, well below the affected area. It’s also a good idea to disinfect tools between cuts to help prevent the spread of disease. (A 10% solution of bleach to water works well.)

After the tree’s diseased, damaged, or crossing branches are pruned, look for lateral branches that are trying to compete vertically with the leader. They can draw energy away from the leader and sap the tree’s vigor. Usually, there is no need to remove all of a competing branch. Just pruning the vertical portion back to the scaffold branch should be sufficient. This will slow the competitor branch’s rate of growth, allowing the leader to dominate.

When pruning a scaffold branch, it is important to cut outside the branch collar. That is the swollen area at the base of the branch, where it joins the trunk.  Make the cut outside the branch collar at a 45-to-60-degree angle to the trunk and leave it alone to heal naturally. There is no need to coat or cover cuts. Doing so could prevent the wound from healing and might seal in pathogens adversely affecting the health of the tree.

Branch anatomy for cutting and pruning safely
Image from arborday.org

According to Pete Smith, forester and arborist from the Arbor Day Foundation, there are five main factors to consider when pruning trees:

  1. After pruning, two-thirds of the height of the tree should still have branches and leaves to keep growing in a healthy manner.
  2. Do not remove more than one third of the total branches in one year.
  3. Branches attached to the trunk should not be more than one half of the diameter of the main trunk.
  4. Every pruning cut should be no more than one inch in diameter
  5. There should be a total of five cuts in a year.

Of course, when pruning a long-neglected tree, it may take a few seasons to be able to apply all five rules, but ultimately, your trees will be healthier and more beautiful if you follow these guidelines.

For questions about pruning or if you have any other gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or http://www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/ or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

 

Tips for the February Gardener

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Tips for the February Gardener

By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Pothos with yellow leaves
Photo by dmp2024

February is a tough time for gardeners. Days are getting longer but the cold temperatures, and in many cases, snow, are keeping us inside. This is a good month to provide houseplants with a little TLC before the weather warms and the gardens beckon.

If possible, bring your plants one by one to the kitchen sink. Give them a thorough grooming by removing any dead or off color leaves. Trim back wayward or undesirable growth. Then give them a good rinsing under the faucet or use a wet cloth to wipe dust off of their leaves. For plants with hairy leaves, like African violets, a soft brush could be used to clean their leaves. Wash their saucers out before setting plants back.

Plants that have outgrown their pots can be repotted at this time. Usually, plants would be moved up to a pot that is an inch or 2 wider. Loosen or trim roots if they are growing in a circle or very dense. An all-purpose potting mix can be used for most plants but specialized mixes for plants like cacti and African violets are also available.

Your amaryllis has probably finished blooming by now. Cut off any spent flowers. Some people like to leave the stem until it yellows as it can photosynthesize but I generally remove the whole stalk after flowering. If you want plants to rebloom next year, the foliage needs light, water and nutrients to grow. Set your plant in a bright location and fertilize monthly starting in March. Plants can be moved outdoors after the danger of frost has passed either in their pots or set them into the ground in a part shady spot. Bring inside in mid-October and let the bulbs go dormant in a dark, warm area for about 8 weeks and then repot for another season of striking trumpet-shaped blooms. Some cultivars do not require a dormant period.

Check on any tender bulbs that you have in storage. Dahlias and tuberous begonias can shrivel if they dry out too much. They are usually stored in some barely moistened peat moss or wood shavings. Sprinkle with a little water if they are on the dry side. Also, this would be a good time to check on any winter squash, potatoes or other vegetables that you’ve been keeping. Use them up before they spoil.

Time spent perusing garden catalogs, either in print or digital format, is a great way to get through cold, winter days. When making out a seed order, don’t forget to note what seeds you have leftover from last year. Most seeds retain their viability for at least a year. It’s always a good idea to plan out the vegetable garden so you know what’s going to be planted where, and when. Last frost dates for your area can be found at: https://garden.org/apps/frost-dates/. The UConn Master Gardener program is offering a Garden Journal with tips on how to plan and maintain your flower and vegetable gardens and plenty of room for you to make notes. To order go to: https://mastergardener.uconn.edu/2024/01/30/garden-journals-available/.

Most of us recognize the benefits of buying local when it comes to produce and other Connecticut grown products but did you know we have at least 5 seed companies in Connecticut. They include Select Seeds (www.selectseeds.com), the Chas. C. Hart Seed Co. (www.hartseed.com), the Heirloom Market at Comstock Ferre selling Baker’s Creek Heirloom Seeds (www.heirloommkt.com), John Scheppers Kitchen Garden Seeds (www.kitchengardenseeds.com), and New England Seed Company (www.neseeds.com). Be sure to see what they have to offer either online or at various retail locations.

If you need a floral fix to get you through to spring, stop by the CT Flower and Garden Show at the Convention Center in Hartford, Feb 22 -25. Visit the UConn Home & Garden Education Center’s booth for a free pH test (bring a half cup of soil) and answers to your gardening questions. A blooming time can also be had at Elizabeth Park’s Greenhouse Bulb and Plant Show, March 1 – 9. Since spring can’t be here soon enough, you’ll just have to go to where the flowers are blooming!

For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Connecticut Barns

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Connecticut Barns
By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Venturing out in the rural Connecticut landscape, there are reminders of the agricultural age that dominated the landscape. Farms that once used their land for raising livestock and growing crops have either been abandoned or slashed in size to accommodate new homes. Sometimes all that remains of the original farm property is the farmhouse and a barn or two. Those barns remain interesting to me architecturally- because of the quality of materials and workmanship that went into building them, and in a nostalgic way, because I grew up in dairy country in New York state. I used to play in barns, and I wish I had had more of an interest in the structure of the barns when I was so close to them, inside and out.

One of the more familiar barns in Connecticut are the post and beam structures. Nathan Hale Homestead in Coventry features one built in the 1760’s. This barn is on the National Register of Historic Places in Connecticut, and it is built in the English/ New England hybrid style which normally had a gable roof and vertical sheathing. The historic Jacobson barn on the UConn campus also has a post and beam structure.

The English barn is a simple building with a rectangular plan, a pitched roof, and a door or doors located on one or both, of the long sides of the building. English barns featured three distinct bays, the center one being for the threshing of grain, and the side bays used for livestock and hay storage. Footings and foundations were typically made of stone, an abundant resource in Connecticut landscapes, and the stones normally had no mortar. Doors on English barns were hinged and swung open.

New England barns are usually a type of bank barn, built into the side of a hill giving ground level access to one side, but a ramp or rarely a bridge were used to access the doors. Roof and eave overhangs were typically one foot to protect walls from rainwater. Ventilators and cupolas were added to some barns in the 19th century to reduce moisture build-up. Some barns had stairs, but most featured ladder access to the second floor. New England style barns normally had a gable roof and vertical sheathing. 

A picturesque red barn with white trim and a cupola is located on Main Street, South Windsor, and it is an example of an English/ New England hybrid style barn. The New England style barn, built after 1830, could stand alone or be connected to other farm buildings and often had an off-centered end wall entrance for wagons.

The Morse Farm barn in Scotland is listed on the National Register, the State Historic Resource Inventory, and the State Register. This carriage house style barn has one and one half stories and features a gambrel roof design. A gambrel roof has two distinctive two slopes on each side, with the upper slope pitched at a shallow angle and the lower slope at a steeper angle. This allowed for more headroom when working on the upper floor. This barn had a combined use as a stable and carriage storage.

On Valley Falls Road in Vernon, the historic red barn, built between 1875 and 1920 features a gambrel bank style and with a cupola and a timber frame structure. A milking stable was in the basement, featuring the typical cement floor and manure gutters and whitewashed walls. It is listed in the Local Historic District and the State Register.

Gilbert Road in Stafford features an English Bank style of barn. Not too far away, on 425 Old Springfield Road in Stafford there is the Greystone Farm English style barn that features exterior siding of gray fieldstone, and flush board and vertical siding on other sections. The roof is a gable type.

The Sheridan Farmstead (c. 1760) on Hebron Road in Bolton is listed on the State Register of Historic Places and features a gentleman’s barn built in 1900. A gentleman’s barn had a dual purpose as a weekend retreat and a working farm. The white extended English bank barn features a stairway to the upper level, hay chutes, a brick chimney, rolling doors, an earthen ramp and horse stalls on the ground level.

There are many more barns, both old ones and newer ones, that are still interesting and useful. To those familiar with the past, barns offer a glimpse into the past, and maybe the present, as well. Tobacco barns, for example, although dwindling in number, are still very much a part of Connecticut’s past and present.

To locate barns on the Connecticut State Register of Historic Places, visit the website on this link- https://connecticutbarns.org/state-register. For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

Hearts for Valentine’s Day

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 Hearts for Valentine’s Day
By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

While there’s always the traditional Valentine’s Day gifts of flowers and candy, why not give that special someone a plant with heart-shaped leaves that will likely last much longer than chocolates or bouquets. There are actually a number of plant species to choose from with some being quite easy to grow.

Perhaps the cutest, as well as the easiest is the Sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii). Hoyas are a very slow growing, vining plant with stems that may reach 13 feet in length. Typically, it is grown in a wreath form or on a trellis. The pink or white flowers are fragrant but not produced in great abundance.

While this plant has the most adorable heart-shaped leaves, the ones that are sold as a single leaf in a pot will, in most cases, remain as a single leaf. Unless a piece of stem was left attached to the potted leaf, the plant is not able to initiate new leaf or stem formation. This makes for a simple plant to care for, however. Keep your Sweetheart hoya leaf in a bright sunny spot with temperatures in the 60 to 80 degree F range and water when dry.

Sweetheart Hoya
Sweetheart Hoya - Image by dmp2024

Another plant for small spaces with charming marbled, heart-shaped leaves is the String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii). While the dainty individual stems can grow 12 feet long, they can be trimmed to keep the plant compact. The grey-green leaves are small, only about ½ inch in diameter. String of Hearts is a succulent best grown in a potting mix labeled for cacti and set in bright, filtered sunlight. Let plants dry out slightly between waterings. Keep away from drafts and note that plants may go dormant if the temperature falls below 60 F.

Philodendrons (P. hederaceum) have been grown for ages and with good reason. These tough, vining plants with heart-shaped leaves tolerate the lower light levels found in many homes. Stems may grow 3 feet or longer and plants are best suited to a hanging basket or trellis. Exciting newer cultivars such as ‘Brasil’, ‘Cream Splash’ and ‘Rio’ offer variegated leaves. Grow plants in bright, indirect light and avoid overwatering. Trim plants if they overgrow their bounds.

More recently, anthuriums with their flashy colored spathes in red, orange, pinks, and purples have been livening up the holiday plant scene. Both the spathes, which are modified leaves, and the true glossy, green leaves are shaped like hearts. Plants grow to about 16 inches high and if content will produce long-lasting colorful spathes several months of the year. Tiny flowers are on the tail-like spike that emerges from each spathe. Anthuriums also appreciate bright but indirect light, a well-draining, acidic soilless potting media and to be kept moderately moist.

Similar in care to anthuriums, syngoniums have heart-shaped leaves and new varieties come in various shades of pink, purplish red and even variegated cultivars. Syngoniums are evergreen climbers but can be maintained as a shrubby houseplant if trailing stems are removed. As the plant ages, leaves become more arrow-shaped. Plants enjoy warmth and humidity and do best in moderately moist potting mixes and in bright diffused light.

Syngonium
Syngonium - Image by dmp2024

A little harder to find but worth the search is the Heart Fern (Hemionitis arifolia). Like many tropical ferns, it prefers indirect light in a warm, humid location. Plants may reach 10 inches tall and wide. The leaves are dimorphic, with the sterile fronds being heart-shaped and the fertile ones resembling arrowheads. Unlike most ferns, the foliage is thick and leathery. Being an epiphyte, plants should be grown in a light, airy potting mix and kept moist at all times.

Lastly, there are varieties of English ivy (Hedera helix) with heart-shaped leaves. ‘Sweetheart’ and ‘Heart’ are two common cultivars. Blue-green leaves form along stems that can be trimmed to any length. Grow as a hanging basket or in a decorative pot. English ivy enjoys cooler temperatures and bright but diffused light. East or north facing windows are ideal locations.

This year, mix it up a little for Valentine’s Day and give the heart-felt gift of a plant with heart-shaped leaves. Do note that some of the above plants are toxic if consumed so should be kept away from children and pets.

If you have questions about these plants or if you have any other gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

Chocolates for your Valentine and other February News

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Chocolates for Your Valentine!

Chocolate scented helianthus in bloom
Chocolate scented helianthus by Pamm Cooper

Many of us celebrate Valentine’s Day with a box of chocolates. What if you surprised your valentine with a chocolate garden that could last them all growing season long? We've found a couple of lists for you that can help you plan a garden that has the sights, smells, and even tastes of our favorite valentine’s day treat and compliments to make it pop! Check out these plant lists to help you create your own chocolate garden for this spring!

Plants for the Chocolate Theme Garden

Chocolate Plants

What’s the Buzz About Cicadas in 2024?

You may have heard the media buzz already that there is going to be a significant event this year in the entomology world. Periodical cicadas, who emerge on either a 13 year or 17 year cycle, will overlap for the first time in 221 years! Many are preparing to see an increase in insect activity and asking us how to best prepare their gardens. While this is indeed fascinating, there are a few details that are being left out of the whole story and we want to help set the record straight!

These periodical cicadas are species that spend a significant part of their life underground. However, there are multiple populations, known as "broods" that emerge on different schedules. Because of this, it is typical to see a 13 year brood and a 17 year brood emerge "together" roughly every 5 years. These insects will emerge, begin singing their chorus of mating songs, and feed on nearby woody ornamentals. However, their damage is rarely extensive.

Cicada
Photo of Cicada by University of Connecticut

Over the years, scientists have been able to map exactly where specific broods live. The two broods of interest this year, Brood XIX (13 year) and Brood XIII (17 Year) will emerge in adjacent locations, but the overlap is not anticipated to be significant. It is indeed the first time in 221 years that these two specific broods are emerging at the same time.

The greatest impact may be found around Springfield, Illinois and surrounding areas.  Here in Connecticut, we will not see these broods. While we may not see the once in a lifetime periodical cicada emergence here at home, we will still be able to enjoy the songs of our Annual Cicadas. Keep an ear out for them this summer. To learn more about periodical cicadas, check out the link below!

The 2024 Periodical Cicada Emergence

Native Plant Highlight: Red Columbine

Red Columbine Flower
Image of Red Columbine flower by GoBotany

Red columbine (Aquilegia canadenis) is a shade-loving perennial that has attractive foliage and eye-catching red and yellow flowers that resemble tiny ballerinas. It attracts hummingbirds, butterflies and hawk moths. As a short-lived perennial, it prefers to self-sow and pop up in places with bare soil. Plant or sow columbine seeds in areas where you are waiting for other plants to grow. It will prove to be a good competitor for weeds To learn more about this beautiful native perennial, visit GoBotany: Aquilegia canadensis

 

Wildlife Highlight: Brandt Goose

Along the Connecticut shoreline there are many species of birds that can only be found here in the winter. Among them are Brant geese, sanderlings and ruddy turnstones. Brant geese resemble Canada geese but are smaller and lack the white cheek patch. These geese breed in the lower Arctic regions. Look for small groups of them foraging off rocks and dipping in the salt water for vegetation.

February 2024 Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! NOAA's National Weather Service released their discussion about how weather patterns will continue to shape this winter season. 

Precipitation outlook Feb 2024
Precipitation outlook Feb 2024 - NOAA

Temperature Outlook Feb 2024
Temperature Outlook February 2024 - NOAA

 

Knowledge to Grow On

Bonsai tree before and after pruning
Bonsai tree before and after pruning. Photo by Laurel Humphrey

Read our Ladybug blogs written weekly

Bonsai for Beginners
A Glimpse of Some Connecticut Lichens
Calculating Slope for Your Landscape
Pretty Cape Primroses

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

  • CT Flower & Garden Show Feb 22-25, 2024. Connecticut Convention Center. Theme: Bursting into Spring! ​​The UConn Home & Garden Education Center will have a booth at the CT Flower & Garden Show to answer plant questions, provide free pH testing for your soil samples, and we will be having speakers every day of the show.
    • Thursday 11:00AM - Dawn Pettinelli
      • Healthy Soils, Healthy Plants, Healthy You 
    • Friday 12:30PM - Pamm Cooper
      • Home on DeRange
    • Saturday 12:30 PM - Heather Zidack
      • Home Gardening Tips in a New Home
    • Sunday 11:00AM - Dr. Nick Goltz
      • The Plant Doctor is In: Flower Disease 101
  • Check out the CT Winter Wine Trail - From January 6th to March 30th, 13 wineries in the state participate in a passport program where visiting each of the sponsors can lead to prizes and adventure!
  • Get your seeds and seed starting supplies, locally! While many big box stores can be a great resource for affordable seed and seed starting products, local businesses like Natureworks Organic Garden Center, Hart Seed Company, Comstock Ferre and other garden centers throughout the state are starting to provide these products and their expertise as well!  February is still a great time to get a jump on your gardening chores! 

Educational Opportunities and Workshops

  • The 2024 Northeast Extension Fruit Consortium winter series features sessions in February and March. Specific dates for various sessions and registration information can be found on their web page.
  • February 10th, 11AM-2PM in Litchfield, CT Cut it Out! The Local History and Practice of Ice Harvesting - Learn about how ice was harvested and stored right here in Connecticut! 
  • Mark your calendars for the CT Compost Conference (Details Below)

    February Gardening Tips

    1. Recent temperature swings may cause perennials to heave out of the ground. Gently push them back into the soil or cover with mulch.

    2. If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!

    3. Begin fertilizing houseplants with a water-soluble fertilizer as they resume active growth.

    4. Turn the compost pile during any stretches of mild weather. 

    5. If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly.

    6. Prune grape vines at the end of the month.

    7. This is the tine to prune currants. On a mild day, remove all deadwood and low shoots that are over 3 years old. Prune to an outward-facing bud. Prune apple and pear trees as the weather allows.

    8. When using salt to melt ice on walks and driveways, spread it carefully to avoid damage to nearby shrubs. Consider using sand or sawdust instead. After the snow melts, flush the area around the roots exposed to salt with fresh water.

    9. If you are overwintering plants into your garage or cellar, check the soil to see if it needs water. If the soil is frozen, it may be in too cold of a spot.

    10. Bring pruning tools inside and clean them for the upcoming season. Disassemble hand pruners, and loppers. Sharpen the blades, oil the levers, and remove any rust.

    The Master Gardener program is selling garden journals and calendars as a fundraiser and they still have some left! Order yours while there's still availability! 

    Photo Op: Fascinating Sights

    See something cool in your garden? Send your pictures to us at ladybug@uconn.edu with subject line “Newsletter Photo” and a brief caption to be considered for next month’s highlight!  

    Graphis scripta script lichen

    Graphis scripta script lichen Oak grove Jan 2024 for newsletter by Pamm Cooper

    This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
    Pamm Cooper, Dr. Nick Goltz, Dawn Pettinelli, Marie Woodward, Heather Zidack 

     

    Watch Out for These Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms

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    Watch Out for These Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms
    By Haiying Tao, Ph.D., UConn Home & Garden Education Center

    Plants need at least seventeen essential nutrients to complete their life cycles. Scientists group these essential nutrients into macronutrients (carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, sulfur, calcium and magnesium), which are required in large quantities and micronutrients (zinc, iron, copper, boron, manganese, chlorine, molybdenum and nickel) which are required in small quantities. Sufficient amounts of these nutrients are required in order for plants to produce well. If there is a deficiency of any essential element, yield and quality can be reduced. Alternatively, too much of a nutrient can be toxic to plants. Diagnosing nutrient deficiencies and toxicities is important for both growers and gardeners to ensure optimum harvests.

    When low in an essential nutrient, plants exhibit distinct visual symptoms, which often allows us to distinguish which nutrient is deficient. A first step in diagnosing nutrient deficiencies is to describe what the symptoms look like. Symptoms caused by nutrient deficiencies are generally grouped into five categories: 1) stunted growth; 2) chlorosis or yellowing; 3) leaf spots; 4) purplish-red coloring; and 5) necrosis or death of plant parts.

    The next step is to identify whether the deficiency symptoms appear on older (lower) leaves or younger (upper) leaves first. If the deficiency symptoms appear on older leaves first, then the deficiency symptoms are possibly caused by one of the nutrients that are mobile in plants, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, chlorine, or molybdenum. In contrast, deficiency of nutrients that are immobile (calcium, sulfur, boron, copper, iron, zinc, manganese, nickel), the symptoms first appear on younger or upper leaves.

    Nitrogen deficiency on corn leaf.
    Nitrogen deficiency on corn leaf. Photo by Dr. Haiying Tao

    Nitrogen deficiency symptoms include yellowing of the lower leaves (chlorosis), stunted and slow growth, and death of older leaves in severe cases. Nitrogen deficient plants will mature early, and the crop quality and yield are often reduced.

    Phosphorus deficiency symptoms occur in the older leaves first and typical deficiency symptoms are purpling of leaves and leaf margins and stunted growth. Plants that are deficient in phosphorus are generally weak and maturity is delayed.

    Potassium deficiency symptoms first appear on older leaves. Typical deficiency symptoms are yellowing and necrosis of the leaf margins. When potassium deficiency is severe, older leaves turn yellow with brown dead tissue around the edges, but the upper new leaves may stay green. Sometimes one may confuse potassium and nitrogen deficiency because both show yellowing on older (lower) leaves first. The difference is that the chlorosis starts from the tip and progresses along the ribs of the leaf if nitrogen is deficient, but the chlorosis starts from the tip and progresses along the edge of the leaf if potassium is deficient.

    Blossom End Rot on Tomato
    Blossom End Rot on Tomato. Photo by dmp2024

    Another nutrient that is commonly found deficient is calcium. Typical calcium deficiency symptoms are poor leaf expansion, curling followed by necrotic patches in the young leaves. Calcium deficiency can cause misshapen fruit and aborted buds. If you find the tip of tomatoes or peppers rotting, cavity spot in carrots, and black heart in peanuts and celery, it’s likely the plants are calcium deficient. However, don’t hurry to apply calcium fertilizers. Check on other stresses such as drought because lack of moisture in the soil can lead to insufficient uptake and transportation of calcium within plants, which leads to symptoms similar to calcium deficiency.

    In sandy and low organic matter soils, sulfur deficiency can occur. Typical sulfur deficiency symptoms are reduced growth rate with plants becoming stunted and thin stemmed. In cole crops (such as cabbage, broccoli, etc.), discoloration appears in younger leaves first. Symptoms may include light green or yellow leaves, a reddish coloration on the undersides of leaves as well as leaves that are cupped inward.

    Sulfur deficiency in cabbage.
    Sulfur deficiency in cabbage. Photo by Dr. Haiying Tao

    It is not always easy to identify nutrient deficiencies just by looking at a plant because the symptoms of several deficiencies are similar in appearance. Also, more than one nutrient may be deficient. It is not uncommon for other stresses such as disease, drought, excess water, genetic abnormalities, herbicide and pesticide residue injury, insects or salt injury may cause symptoms that are similar to nutrient deficiency. The best way to confirm if you have nutrient deficiency is to test your soil and plant tissue.

    For questions on nutrient management in the garden or farm, feel free to contact the UConn Soil Lab at (860) 486-4271. For all your other gardening questions, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education at (877) 486-6271 or www.homegarden.cahnr,uconn.edu or your local Cooperative Extension Center.

    Dr. Tao is an Assistant Professor and Soil Fertility Specialist in the UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture.