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“A garden is a grand teacher. It teaches patience and careful watchfulness; it teaches industry and thrift; above all, it teaches entire trust.”
— Gertrude Jekyll
Maximize your Garden Space this Season!
Gardening comes in all shapes and sizes, whether its a few pots on the patio, a large in-ground bed, or somewhere in between. We love the challenge of getting the most out of our gardens and finding new methods to increase efficiency and yield. There's many techniques out there - which one is best for you?
Click on each title to learn more and keep in mind that these are only a few of many techniques gardeners use to maximize their productions!
Intercropping
This practice focuses on growing two or more crops in close proximity to maximize the use of space in the garden. Plants need to be of similar culture in terms of watering and care needs in order to be successful. Often, timing of harvest can be a significant player in this system. Planting radishes in between broccoli, for example, ensures that the radish will be harvested before the broccoli needs additional space to produce its crown.
Companion Planting
While it may seem easy to use companion planting and intercropping interchangeably, they are two different practices. Companion planting focuses more on the relationships between plants and their environment. For example, some companion plants benefit others by deterring pests or fixing nitrogen into the soil. These complex relationships add benefit to your garden while also maximizing space.
Succession Planting
This method involves re-planting immediately after harvest to utilize the space for as long as possible. For example, planting escarole and lettuce once warm season vegetables have been harvested can help extend the gardening season. Alternatively, planting peas from seed every 2 weeks during the months of April & May ensures staggered harvest when compared to a single planting ready for harvest at the same time.
Square Foot Gardening
Looking to create an organized and efficient vegetable garden this growing season? Try using the square foot gardening method. In this technique, the growing area is divided into small sections, each one square foot in size. The result is an orderly garden grid with a different plant species in each square. Construction is simple and can be done with minimal materials.
Container Gardens
We are fortunate that the availability of container-friendly production plants has been increasing over the years! If your garden space is limited, seek out plants that are specifically intended for containers.
Drought Injury Continues
A hedge of Green Giant Arborvitae showing signs of winter damage. Note that the one on the far right appears to be unaffected, likely due to some sheltering from winter winds. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
Connecticut's woody ornamentals have suffered from a unique challenge this past winter season: the lingering effects of a moderate drought during the preceding fall, along with cold temperatures and harsh winds. This combination of factors poses a threat to the health and vitality of trees and shrubs, exacerbating the typical stressors of winter in New England.
Many gardeners even reported a delayed response, noting that their evergreens looked okay throughout the winter and early spring. While drought-stressed plants are generally more susceptible to winter injury, this year's moderate fall drought has weakened many woody ornamentals, leaving them vulnerable to frost damage, branch dieback and pathogens, which become opportunistic when woody ornamentals are under stress.
Monitoring your trees and shrubs over the coming season will help you mitigate any further damage. Providing supplemental water when less than 1" of rain is forecasted for the week may also help plants out of this stressful time. Checking the soil before watering will help you avoid overwatering, which can cause its own host of issues.
Wild ginger, Asarum canadense, is a native plant that is a good choice as a shaded groundcover. Found naturally in woodlands in the eastern U.S., flowers are often overlooked as they are hidden near the ground below the leaves of this low-growing plant. Not considered edible, it is unrelated to the ginger used in cooking.
Shopping for native plants this spring? UConn has created a valuable resource that not only identifies CT Native plants, but helps you find the garden centers that carry them!
As we move into the summer the common plant clover starts to pop up everywhere throughout your lawn! However, instead of hand pulling or digging out the “weed”, should you actually keep it in your yard this summer? The answer is: yes! Clover is actually extremely beneficial to the environment in multiple different ways, and is also more drought tolerant, requires less fertilizer than grass, and attracts pollinators such as bees! This plant is a nitrogen fixing legume, which forms a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria that start to form bumps that are able to extract the nitrogen from the atmosphere. When the nitrogen is extracted, the Rhizobia helps turn it into a usable form for the legume, and it “fixes” it within the plant. Clover is a great plant to keep in your lawn this summer!
By Zaira O’Leary, University of Connecticut Sustainable Plant and Soil Science Undergraduate
A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)
Gardening Resources & Pest Alerts
During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert for both vegetable and fruit producers. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.
While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!
If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.
Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products!
Photo by Peter Morenus/UConn Photo
Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets!
Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.
Consider attending a local farmers market, joining Community Supported Agriculture (CSA's), or even stopping by your nearest farm stand to see what they have to offer!
In spring, some farms and farmers markets even offer plant starts for sale to be planted in your home garden.
This Memorial Day we also recognize ctveterangrown.org as a valuable resource for both veteran farmers and community members who wish to support Veteran-Owned or Operated Farms in CT.
Harden off tomato, eggplant and pepper transplants before planting out at end of month.
As night temperatures moderate into the 60's, move houseplants outdoors. Help them with the transition by putting them outside on warm days and bringing them in on when nights are too cold. Avoid putting them directly into full sun or windy locations.
Remove any tree wraps or guards you placed on young trunks for winter protection.
Remove spent blooms on tulips, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs. The plant will focus its energy on growing new bulbs rather than producing seeds.
Use fresh potting soil in your containers as old soil has fewer nutrients and may contain harmful bacteria and fungi.
Mow your lawn any time the grass is 1½ times the normal height, for example, if you mow at a 3-inch height, don’t let the grass get longer than 4 to 5”.
Aphids and lace bugs will appear soon. Spray with water or use a low-toxicity insecticide to control them. Asian lady beetles are a beneficial insect that feed on aphids.
Put nets over ripening strawberries to protect them from birds and other wildlife.
Clear grass and weeds from root zone areas around tree trunks and remove any suckers growing from the base of the trees. Spread compost and top with 3 to 4” of bark mulch. Keep mulch an inch or two away from the trunks.
Disinfect all pots and containers before refilling them for the season.
By Marie Woodward, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
USDA Hardiness Zone Map for Connecticut, 2023
If you are wondering whether that shrub, flower, or tree that you saw in a magazine or catalog will grow well in your garden, using a hardiness zone map is your best bet to ensure success.
A hardiness zone map is a tool that divides a geographical area into distinct zones based on average annual minimum winter temperatures. These maps are used by gardeners and farmers around the world to determine which plants are most likely to thrive in a particular region. Each country has its own hardiness map that correlates to their climate. In the United States, the USDA publishes a hardiness zone map, which covers all fifty states and includes Puerto Rico, Guam, American Samoa, and the U.S. Virgin Islands. It uses climate data collected over many years from weather stations throughout a specific region. Then the data is analyzed to determine average minimum winter temperatures from different areas.
The concept of hardiness zones was first introduced in 1927 by Dr. Alfred Rehder. Rehder worked at Harvard's Arnold Arboretum as a botanical taxonomist. He wanted to address the challenges gardeners and growers faced in selecting plants suited to their local climate. Prior to Rehder’s map, there was no standardized system for categorizing plants based on their ability to survive winter temperatures. His hand-drawn map featured eight hardiness zones and was based on the lowest winter temperatures recorded in various regions across the country. Rehder aimed to provide a practical tool for gardeners and growers. His map made it easier for them to choose plants with the best chances of survival in their region, ultimately contributing to more successful gardens and agricultural endeavors. Rehder’s innovative approach recognized the importance of adapting agricultural practices to local climates. In the 1960s, the USDA adopted and adapted Rehder's concept, creating the first official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
Since its initial release, the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map has been updated several times to reflect changes in climate and the availability of more accurate data. The latest update of the USDA hardiness map was released in November 2023, jointly developed by the USDA's Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Oregon State University's PRISM Climate Group. This update incorporates data from 1991 to 2020, covering a broader range of weather stations than previous versions. One of the key findings from this update is that the contiguous United States has become approximately 2.5 degrees Fahrenheit warmer on average compared to the previous map. As a result, around half of the country has shifted into the next warmer half zone, while the other half has remained unchanged. The updated map still consists of 13 zones, but now offers more detailed information on temperature ranges within each zone, including 10-degree zones and 5-degree half zones. Connecticut has two hardiness zones each of which is divided into half zones; (6a,6b); (7a,7b), to better reflect the temperatures in the state over the past few decades.
The importance of hardiness zones lies in their ability to help gardeners and farmers choose plants that will thrive in their specific region. By selecting plants appropriate for their zone, growers can reduce the risk of frost damage and increase their chances of a successful growing season. However, due to unexpected temperatures outside the average range, there is no guarantee that a plant won’t suffer but it does reduce the risk of plant damage. In addition to gardeners, researchers use hardiness zones to study the spread of insects and exotic weeds, while the USDA Risk Management Agency uses the map to help determine crop insurance rates for commercial growers.
While the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is an invaluable tool, it is important to note that it is not the only factor gardeners and farmers should consider when selecting plants. Other factors, such as soil type, precipitation, and local microclimates, can also impact plant growth and survival. Gardeners should use the map as a starting point and supplement it with local knowledge and research to make the best plant selections for their specific needs.
The development of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is a testament to the importance of adapting agricultural practices to local climates. Since its inception nearly a century ago, the map has evolved to reflect changes in climate and incorporate more accurate data. Today, the map remains an essential resource for gardeners and researchers alike, helping them to better understand and navigate the complexities of plant growth in the diverse regions of the United States. Knowing a plant’s hardiness zone when selecting that shrub, tree or flower will help you grow the garden of your dreams.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.
By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
Photo by Dawn Pettinelli
Arbor Day is celebrated in Connecticut on April 25th. Since it is a day traditionally set aside for the planting of trees, perhaps you might consider adding one to your home landscape. If you haven’t the need for another arboreal specimen, then plan on giving your existing trees a little TLC.
Trees have a lot to offer. They provide us with cool shade on hot summer days, brighten our spring season with lovely blossoms, add color to the fall landscape and winter interest throughout cold, dreary days. Trees provide food, nesting sites and shelter for many animals, especially birds. They help reduce noise pollution, trap particulate air pollutants, and can alter the microclimate surrounding them.
Most importantly, trees supply plenty of oxygen for us to breathe. Each year, an acre of trees produces enough oxygen to keep 18 people alive. They also sequester carbon dioxide. Trees convert atmospheric carbon dioxide into plant matter as they photosynthesize. This has important consequences worldwide. As more and more of our forested land is being cleared, less carbon dioxide can be stored in trees and more is available to increase the atmospheric carbon dioxide levels which, in turn, can contribute to global warming.
While we can’t stop global deforestation, we can make a difference in our own backyards by planting more trees or making sure that the trees already present receive the conditions they need to thrive.
When selecting a tree for your landscape, do consider factors like its ultimate height and spread, susceptibility to insect and disease problems, flowering, fruiting and fall foliage potential, rate of growth and site requirements. Review gardening books, consult with nurserymen and maybe visit an arboretum to view mature specimens.
Trees are purchased either as dormant stock through mail order sources, containerized, or balled-and-burlapped (B & B). Dormant trees generally arrive in the spring or fall and should be soaked for a couple of hours and planted immediately. If you can’t get them in the ground right away, they can be stored in a cool place for a few days out of direct sunlight. Make sure them are kept moist.
Containerized stock can be planted throughout the growing season although cooler spring or fall is best. Hard to transplant species are best purchased this way as there is less disruption to their root system. If potbound, make several vertical cuts about one-quarter inch deep around the root ball before planting.
Purchasing B & B trees is fine for younger specimens, but often larger trees have a good portion of their roots removed in this process. This can lead to poor survival. For greatest success, choose small to medium sized trees.
Photo by Dawn Pettinelli
Holes for planting only need be as deep as the root system. The key is to make them at least 2 feet wider than the root ball. Especially in heavy or compacted soils, be sure to
loosen as much soil around the planting area as possible so roots can grow freely. The majority of roots are found in the upper 3 feet of soil.
Amendments such as peat moss or fertilizer are not necessary to add to the backfill. However, if the soil pH or phosphorus levels are low, ground limestone and bonemeal can be mixed into the backfill.
Add water to the hole before planting and let it drain. Next, position the root ball. Remove plastic mesh and cords. Burlap can be cut away as much as possible. Fill in the hole about half way. Gently firm the soil around the root ball. Don’t stomp on it or you will compact the soil. Water thoroughly and when the water drains, finish filling the hole. Make a well around the tree with soil and water once more. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch keeping it away from the trunk. Newly planted trees need a thorough soaking each week throughout the first growing season either from natural precipitation or from you.
If you have questions about trees or any other gardening topic, call the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center (toll-free) at (877) 486-6271 or email us at ladybug@uconn.edu or visit our website, www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu.
Beans like this Dragon Tongue variety can add interest to your vegetable garden! Photo by H. Zidack
Full of fiber, packed with protein, and great to grow, beans have been a staple in the diet of humans for thousands of years. Native edible beans can be found on every continent but Antarctica, although many of the beans we eat today are domesticated varieties that originated in South America, Europe, and Asia. Fabaceae, the bean family, is one of the largest families of plants in the world, with over 20,000 species described. As legumes, beans can convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into nitrogen useable by other plants, making them very useful to integrate into crop rotation for savvy home gardeners who want to save a little money on nitrogen fertilizer. In fact, excessive nitrogen fertilization of legumes can inhibit the natural nitrogen-fixation process, so use only a low-strength nitrogen fertilizer if absolutely necessary. Legumes can even be used as cover crops in the winter to prevent soil erosion and provide a boost to your soil health all winter long. You can direct-seed beans and still get production all season, meaning Connecticut gardeners can get beans in the ground now.
Fava beans (Vicia faba) are grown all around the world, very adaptable to many climates, and are generally very easy to grow. They are cold-tolerant and can be grown all the way down to USDA Hardiness Zone 3. In Connecticut, for the best results, you should plant fava bean seeds in the early spring in a place that gets full sun and doesn’t stay too moist. They will take about three months to begin producing beans but will continue producing throughout the season and into the fall. Some frost-resistant varieties will even survive temperatures below freezing, and since they self-pollinate, bees are not necessary for the production of pods. Fava beans do not require trellises, but some larger varieties may benefit from cages or trellises for additional support. In the summer, pollinators love the flowers, and understandably so – bean flowers not only signal the coming produce but are also eye-catching. Many varieties have white and dark red flowers. Some varieties have pink flowers. Bean pods can be harvested and eaten whole if they are young and tender. It is important to note that some people may have an adverse reaction to consuming fava beans, a metabolic disorder called favism. Favism causes anemia in response to the inhalation of the plant’s pollen or consumption of the beans. Be sure to check with your doctor before trying these beans for the first time.
For “summery” beans that are native to central and south America, you can try planting kidney, cranberry, appaloosa, or navy beans, all in the genus Phaseolus. Perhaps the delight of beans in the Phaseolus genera is their diversity in appearance. Appaloosa beans are especially whimsical, with white, brown, and reddish mottling. They strongly resemble the horse for which they are named. Some of these species behave like pole beans, meaning they will need to be trellised, while others behave like bushes, meaning they should not need to be trellised. The seed packet should indicate whether they will need to be trellised. As with fava beans, be sure to water Phaseolus when the soil seems dry, taking care to avoid watering the leaves. Excessive leaf wetness may increase the likelihood for fungi to grow and cause disease.
No matter what bean you try growing, pests and disease are ever-present. Aphids, bean beetles, and European corn borer are all possible bean pests. Beans are susceptible to diseases like powdery mildew, Fusarium wilt, and bean rust. Selecting disease and pest-resistant varieties will reduce the risk of yield loss. Like most legumes, the ideal soil pH for growing beans is 6-7. Since native Connecticut soil typically has a pH closer to 5.5, be sure to send a soil sample to the UConn Soil and Nutrient Analysis Lab to test the pH (and nutrients!) of your soil before planting to ensure you get accurate recommendations for any amendments your garden may need to allow beans to thrive!
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.
By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
Rhododendrons are showing a varying degree of stress responses to winter conditions in the landscape. Photo by Heather Zidack
Rhododendrons are looking rough this spring. You’ve probably seen it in your yard or in your neighborhood. The UConn Home & Garden Education Center has been seeing an increase in the number of calls regarding injury or damage to rhododendrons. In most cases, we are finding these reports to be winter injury. This is an environmental type of damage, caused by a perfect storm of conditions that we have seen throughout the state. So, let’s take a closer look into why this is happening.
Plants lose water through their leaves. During active growth, that water is constantly replenished from the roots. When the temperatures drop and the ground freezes in the winter, available water becomes limited. Plants have adapted to this in many ways. Dormancy is triggered by multiple factors, but water conservation is certainly one of those. Deciduous trees shed their leaves completely. Evergreens have developed various leaf adaptations to help with survival, too.
As broadleaf evergreens, rhododendrons have developed a waxy coat on their leaves to help prevent water loss. They also have a physiological mechanism to help defend themselves further. Just as you’d clasp your hands together on a cold winter day to shield them from the elements, rhododendron leaves curl themselves into cigar-shaped cylinders. The leading theory is that this happens to protect the leaves from further water loss. This natural defense mechanism has grabbed our attention this spring, since our weather patterns have lent a hand in amplifying a natural phenomenon.
At the end of last summer, CT started to see a moderate drought in much of the state. These conditions have persisted through this spring. Water availability was limited as plants went into the winter and remained limited throughout the season. Add in frozen soil and harsh winter winds and the environmental stress increased even more. When water is unavailable to the roots – through either freezing or drought conditions, plants lose their ability to return water to the living tissues. This drying out, referred to as desiccation, leads to winter injury or winter kill depending on the severity of damage. While we are finally seeing rain, these plants need time to recover and may not be ready to unfurl just yet.
Many have noted that some plants are faring better than others even within the same bed. This is also normal to some extent. It can be easy to forget that plants are living things in our landscapes. There is going to be variance in their ability to withstand environmental pressures and their recovery rates.
If you are seeing this in your rhododendrons, be patient this spring and monitor over the next month or so. With an increase of rain in the forecast, the extra hydration should help plants recover - or at least push out new growth. These shrubs will shed any leaves that are damaged beyond repair on their own. Do not prune or fertilize shrubs until the end of May to avoid further injury. If we go a week without rain, consider watering your shrubs to help speed up recovery – but only water if the soil feels dry to the touch! If by mid-late May you are seeing absolutely no improvement, we start to consider other factors that may contribute to the plant’s health. For now, they just need a little more time.
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atcahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.
The snowy weather is getting mixed reviews around the state. Some people are thrilled, others are begging for a little more sunshine and less precipitation. (Spring 2025)
By Abigayle Ward – Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture
Connecticut dairy cows enjoying some feed and the sunshine. Photo by Nora Doonan, UConn Soil Science Graduate Student
As temperatures warm up, perhaps you feel inclined to open windows to let some fresh air into your home or to feel the breeze on your morning commute. But then it hits you: The pungent aroma of freshly-spread manure. The few weeks that the smell persists serve as a reminder of the agricultural roots of Connecticut. Dairy farming began during the American colonial period in the 1600s, and milk remains one of the most important agricultural products in Connecticut. Some dairy farms have been in continuous operation for over 10 generations.
A single cow can produce around 100 pounds – about 18 gallons – of manure per day. Connecticut is home to nearly 19,000 dairy cows, so you do the math – that’s a lot of manure!
Typically, farmers spread manure on their crop fields twice per year: Once in the early spring, and again after corn harvest, usually in late fall. Manure is rich in nutrients, which helps grow the crops farmers use to keep happy cows throughout the year. Manure is also an excellent source of organic matter, which enriches the soil with carbon, provides nutrients to support healthy soil microbiomes, and gives our sandy Connecticut soils structure, which is essential for happy crops and high yields.
Many Connecticut dairy farmers are also on the forefront of research and development. In Coventry, Hytone Farm uses a brand-new anaerobic digester to harness the power of microorganisms to break down thousands of gallons of manure and food waste every day. Biogasses, such as methane, are collected and can be used to generate electricity. The solids, called “digestates”, can be used as fertilizer, animal bedding, or even as building materials. Freund’s Farm in East Canaan has been turning digestates into compostable, nutrient-rich CowPots, which can be buried directly in your garden and will biodegrade over time. Running since 1997, Freund’s is home to one of the first anaerobic digesters in New England. Collins Powder Hill Farm – home of the Collins Creamery – makes and sells compost from leaves and manure. All these practices help these local farms, and many others, increase carbon sequestration, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, and yes, reduce the smell of manure.
For home gardeners who wish to harness the power of manure, applying a commercially produced manure compost is the safest route. While applying raw manure is safe for crops that will not be consumed by humans, composted manure is recommended for application in gardens where human food is being grown. The composting process heats up the manure to temperatures that kill pathogens, such as E. coli, which could make you sick. Furthermore, composted manure should be odorless – getting your garden many of the benefits without the smell!
While the smell may be a mild inconvenience now, it is a sign that our dairy farmers are hard at work, continuing a tradition older than our country and serving our communities. You can support our state’s dairy farmers by purchasing locally-produced dairy products, adding some composted manure to your garden, and – of course – waving to the tractor drivers!
The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.
“In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.”
— Margaret Atwood
Get Your Plants Outside Earlier with Cold Frames!
Cold frames act as small greenhouses, allowing you to get an earlier start on your garden in the spring and harvest produce later in the fall as temperatures begin to drop. These structures allow light in through clear covers while protecting plants from the elements – namely cold weather. The cold frame is heated by the sun during the day and at night, heat is radiated inside to keep plants warm. Cold frames can be constructed from a variety of materials to form the basic components of a frame and transparent covering.
These structures also help gardeners to "harden off" seedlings - a process which helps them adjust from a controlled indoor environment, to a more variable outdoor environment.
With its namesake holiday approaching, the demand for Easter lilies is rapidly increasing!
While inside your home, choose a location which provides bright light but is out of direct sunlight. Ensure that watering is done when the soil surface is dry to the touch.
These are not pet-safe plants! Keep them out of reach from your furry friends.
When danger of frost has passed, Easter lilies can be planted outdoors. Plant your lily in a location with full sun and sufficient drainage.
Bloodroot is a native spring ephemeral that is one of the first wildflowers to bloom. Many native bees that are active in early spring benefit from a nice stand of this plant. Its common name refers to the blood-red color of the underground rhizomes.
How ‘beneficial’ are the microbe blends to your soil, as well as your plants?
Microbial additions are being discussed increasingly, and they are starting to show up on sites, such as Amazon, easily accessible by the average home grower. The big question is: are these additions and blends aiding your soil, or are they just another sales pitch? Microbial additions greatly benefit your soil, because they aid in multiple essential functions within the soil, including cycling nutrients, breaking down organic matter within the soil, and helping your soil stay healthy. These additions can also be a benefit to your plants by helping them absorb more nutrients, as well as encouraging growth, and possibly even disease suppression! Microbial additions are truly ‘beneficial’, and should be considered this spring season!
By Zaira O’Leary, University of Connecticut Sustainable Plant and Soil Science Undergraduate
A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)
Earth Day is April 22nd - Celebrations are happening statewide! Check with your local municipality, nature centers and parks to see what events they have planned.
Arbor Day is April 25th - Visit one of CT's many recognizedTree City USAsites.
Tour theUConn Arboretum and visit our collection of specimen trees!
Freezing temperatures don’t harm pansies, but if they have been grown in a greenhouse they should be gradually exposed to outdoor temperatures before planting.
Divide overcrowded summer or fall blooming perennials.
Get your hands in the soil on cold spring days by transplanting houseplants that need repotting.
Weather permitting, direct sow peas, carrots, radishes, lettuces, and spinach every two weeks through mid-May for staggered harvests.
Place seedlings in cold frames around April 25 or later to harden off.
A new generation of Spongy Moth Caterpillars will hatch in late April and begin feeding on the leaves of many tree species. Remove and destroy any egg masses you find on your trees.
Don't wait too long to remove mulches from strawberries. Once the leaves have emerged from under the straw and yellowing is evident, pull the mulch away from the tops of the plants and tramp it down between the rows. Keeping the base of the plants mulched helps keep the berries clean, controls weeds, and conserves moisture.
Apply pre-emergent crabgrass weed control when soil temperatures reach 50°F. Use a tool like this soil temperature map to track your timing.
