Soil and Plant Tests for Managing Nitrogen Fertilization

Posted on by

By Haiying Tao, Ph.D., UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Nitrogen (N) is often the most limiting nutrient in growing plants. When deficient, plant yields and quality are reduced. However, excessive nitrogen applications could cause concerns in water quality and greenhouse gas emissions. Managing nitrogen is a very difficult task for farmers and gardeners because nitrogen exists in many different forms in the soil and can be lost from soil via many pathways. In addition, different forms nitrogen can be transformed from one form to another. The weather, especially rainfall and temperature, can impact these processes. Heavy rainfall can lead to significant nitrogen leaching and runoff.

Fortunately, there are strategies that can be used to help us manage nitrogen for optimum plant yield and quality, while minimizing nitrogen loss. Most home gardeners benefit from the standard nutrient analysis when testing their soil. Recommendations and questions regarding additional sampling, interpretation, and fertilization recommendations for specific tests and crops mentioned below should be referred to the University of Connecticut Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory.

Predict nitrogen requirement and preplant soil tests

Testing soil for nitrate and ammonium forms of nitrogen as well as soil organic matter (SOM) can help you predict soil nitrogen supply during the growing season. SOM can provide substantial amounts of nitrogen via mineralization, which is a process where soil microorganisms convert organic forms of nitrogen to the plant available forms of ammonium and nitrates.

Typically, for every 1% of SOM in the top 6 inches of soil, approximately 20 to 40 lbs of nitrogen per acre can become available via the mineralization process. If you can predict the nitrogen requirement of the desired crop, the amount of nitrogen that needs to be applied can then be estimated using the differences between demand and supply. Note that for SOM testing, 6-inch soil sampling depth is typically recommended.

Pre-sidedress Soil Nitrogen Test (PSNT)

The Pre-sidedress soil nitrate-nitrogen test (PSNT) can be used for corn and vegetable crops such as tomatoes, peppers, fall planted cabbage, etc. Soil sampling and testing for PSNT takes place in June or early July, typically when corn plants are 6 inches to 1 foot tall. At this time of the year, the heavy rainfall season has passed, soil is at its optimum moisture and temperature condition for mineralization, and crops, like corn, begin to increase nitrogen uptake exponentially.

Soil samples should be collected at 1 foot depth. The samples should be packed with icepacks during shipping to the soil testing labs. Typically, if PSNT is higher than 25 ppm, nitrogen fertilization is unlikely needed. Crops that have shallower root systems may require a slightly higher PSNT level because they do not have extensive root systems to take up nutrients from a large volume of soil.

End-of-Season Cornstalk Nitrate Test (CSNT) for Corn

Corn Stalks
Remove the leaves and sheaths and place the samples in a paper bag. (Haiying Tao).

The end-of-season corn stalk nitrate-N test (CSNT) is a post-harvest plant tissue test for corn that can evaluate nitrogen uptake and availability during the crop’s growing season. This test is appropriate for corn produced under both rain-fed and irrigated conditions. Although the test is too late to guide current crop fertilization, the post-harvest evaluation can estimate N sufficiency levels during the corn growing season and provide a valuable tool for fine-tuning future nitrogen management strategies.

Approximately one week prior to or after harvest, 15 random cornstalk samples for every 10 to 15 acres should be collected to form a composited sample. Each cornstalk sample should be collected by cutting an 8-inch section between 6 and 14 inches above the ground. Remove the leaves and sheaths, place the samples in a paper bag, and immediately send the samples to a laboratory for CSNT testing. Avoid taking samples from severely damaged plants. Typically, a CSNT higher than 2000 ppm suggests excessive nitrogen was available during the crop growing season.

We recommend that farmers regularly conduct CSNT to evaluate N sufficiency levels in their cornfields and fine-tune their N management strategies in subsequent growing seasons. Farmers should begin their fine-tuning by reducing fertilizer N applications in cornfields where CSNT results were in the excessive category or even eliminating fertilizer N applications if the CSNT is exceptionally high in the heavily manure fields. Notice that the CSNT could be high in drought years, this is another reason that it is best to test CSNT every year to accurately assess the nitrogen management practices.

If you have further questions about the different types of soil tests available to farmers and home gardeners, please contact the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory at 860-486-6270 or at https://soiltesting.cahnr.uconn.edu/. The UConn Home & Garden Education Center contributes to the Cooperative Extension mission of the University of Connecticut by connecting the public with research and resources provided by the University. For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center (877) 486-6271, visit our website at https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension center https://cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations/.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 8, 2025

Pruning, Birds & Other February News

Posted on by
February 2025

"In winter's cold and sparkling snow,
The garden in my mind does grow..."

— Cynthia Adams

Winter is Great for Pruning

Wiping pruners with alcohol and a cloth
Wiping down pruners between plants can help reduce the spread of pests and pathogens. Photo by M. Woodward

Late February and early March are an ideal time for pruning many of our favorite woody ornamentals. Gardeners and landscapers prune for many reasons including plant health, aesthetic appeal, better fruiting/flowering, safety and size management.

Cold weather can help to limit pathogens and pests entering woody stems through fresh cut wounds. In spite of this, it is still best practice to sterilize your pruners with a bleach or alcohol wipe before moving from one tree to the next.

Avoid cutting spring flowering ornamentals, however, as they may already have their buds set and ready to go. Always research the pruning techniques for the specific species you are working with to ensure best results.

Prune Now for Beautiful Summer Trees

Pruning Trees and Shrubs

Pruning Woody Landscape Plants

Landscaping to Support Birds in Winter

robins feeding under crabapple tree in winter
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Birds can be attracted to properties during the winter if there are suitable food plants.

Some of the best for winter fruits are native winterberry and inkberry, native and non- native viburnums, native eastern red cedar and crabapples.

Perennials such as coneflowers, Rudbeckia, asters, grasses with seedheads and goldenrods that are left standing, so seeds are available, are also good for birds.  Throughout the winter, as seeds are eaten, plants can be cut back if desired.

Caring for Birds in the Winter

Native Trees, Shrubs and Vines with Wildlife Value

Bird Flu Safety for Gardeners

Waxwings on Viburnum
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Seeing Avian Influenza (Bird Flu) in the news recently may raise questions about wild bird populations in our gardens.  While we are not animal professionals, we have a few general tips and resources to share.

There are three agencies in the state of CT are keeping an eye on developments.

CT DEEP: Avian Influenza

Reporting Dead Birds

Word from the WiSE

Air flow, Avoid Fungus Growth!
This month, the UConn Women in Soil Ecology club brings you a word about conditions needed for starting seedlings: Avoiding the dangers of the fuzzy white fungus. 

Have you ever experienced a fuzzy white fungus growing in your seedling tray? If so, your seedlings may have been at risk of damping off. Damping off is a soilborne fungal disease that can cause your seedlings to rot. The typical culprits in your seedling trays are the fungi Rhizoctonia spp., Fusarium spp., and Pythium spp. These fungi love cool and wet conditions. If your seedlings have fallen over or collapsed, it may be a sign of these pathogens.

Overwatering your seedlings can put them at an increased risk, so it is best to adjust your watering regime and increase air flow. To prevent damping off, be sure to use fresh potting media and sterilize your pots, trays, and tools if they are being reused from previous growing seasons or made contact with garden soil. Provide your seedlings with warmth and bright light for seedling success!

By Nora Doonan – Soil Science PhD Student, UConn PSLA

Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

    Temperature map
Precipitation Outlook

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

          • Get your seeds and seed starting supplies, locally! While many big box stores can be a great resource for affordable seed and seed starting products, local garden centers throughout the state are starting to provide these products and their expertise as well! 

          ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

              Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                          • UConn's Master Gardener Program runs a Seed Distribution program in the winter in partnership with Ocean State Job Lot. This program helps donate seed to schools, community organizations, and non-profits across the state. 

                          CT Flower & Garden Show 2025

                            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center will have our booth at the CT Flower Show this year! Come and say hello to our Plant & Soil Health Staff and Master Gardener Volunteers!
                            Flower Show 2025

                            Speakers & Presentations from the UConn Plant & Soil Health Team
                            • Thursday 2/20 - 11:00 AM
                              • Al's Top Secret Compost Recipe
                                • ​​​​​​​Alastair Ong, Esq., UConn Master Composter
                            • Friday 2/21 - 12:30 PM
                              •  Look at Interesting Connecticut Lichens and Slime Molds
                                • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
                            • Saturday 2/22 - 12:30 PM
                              • ​​​​​​​Learning to Speak Horticulture
                                • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
                            • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Sunday 2/23 - 11:00 AM 
                              • Be a Plant P.I. Learn to Detect, Identify and Prevent Plant Diseases
                                • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Dr. Nick Goltz, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                            February Gardening Tips

                                      • Recent temperature swings may cause perennials to heave out of the ground. Gently push them back into the soil or cover with mulch.
                                      • When buying houseplants in winter, be sure to wrap them well for the trip home and, if possible warm up the car. This prevents the foliage from freezing and protects tropicals from drafts.
                                      • When using salt to melt ice on walks and driveways, spread it carefully to avoid damage to nearby shrubs. Consider using sand or sawdust instead. After the snow melts, flush the area around the roots exposed to salt with fresh water.
                                      • Bring pruning tools inside and clean them for the upcoming season. Disassemble hand pruners, and loppers. Sharpen the blades, oil the levers, and remove any rust.
                                      • If you’re starting seeds under fluorescent lights, check the light tubes for signs of age. Dark rings on the ends of tubes means they should be replaced. Dispose of properly. 
                                      • If you potted bulbs for forcing last fall, check their progress. Soil should be barely moist. If tips have sprouted and have a few inches of growth, bring the pot into a cool, bright room (50 to 60 degrees F). Gradually expose the plant to increasing warmth, indirect sunlight, and increased watering. Feed once a week with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. To help the stems grow straight, turn the pot every day. When buds and foliage are fully developed, bring into full sunlight, and enjoy!
                                      • Brush snow from evergreens as soon as possible after a storm. Use a broom in an upward, sweeping motion. Serious damage may be caused by heavy snow or ice accumulating on the branches.
                                      • Turn the compost pile during any stretches of mild weather.
                                      • Clean leaves of large and smooth leaved houseplants like dracaena, philodendron, ficus, etc.
                                      • Scout for invasive vines like bittersweet. Cut them off of tree trunks to help discourage girdling.  
                                      • This is the time to start small-seeded flowers such as begonias and petunias. Leek and onion seeds should also be started as soon as possible. 

                                      This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                      Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Marie Woodward, Nora Doonan

                                      Tissue Cultured Houseplants

                                      Posted on by

                                      By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty
                                      UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                      Tissue cultured philodendron
                                      A bag of tissue cultured Philodendron sp. ‘White Knight’ in nutrient agar purchased at a local big box pet store. (photo by M. Lisy).

                                      Ever wonder how new varieties of houseplants are produced so quickly? Tissue Culture is most likely responsible for this. Many people think this is new technology, but it has been donesuccessfully since the 1950s. Recently, I was surprised to see tissue cultured houseplants available in a big box pet store.  

                                      If plant breeders had to wait for a plant to clone itself the natural way, the supply of rare houseplants would be extremely limited. This would cause the consumer to have to pay an exorbitant price, and the demand would far exceed the supply. Tissue culture allows for a short cut.

                                      Plant cells exhibit totipotency, or the ability to regrow a whole new plant from a single cell. While our cells differentiate and stay that way, plant cells can dedifferentiate and then grow into a whole new plant. This is why plant propagators can take a small piece of a plant leaf, and grow it into a whole new plant with roots, stems, leaves, and any other tissues the plant needs.

                                      The plants I found were in a very small package almost the size of a cell phone. There was some nutrient agar in the bottom, and a bunch of little, tiny plants. Some of the plant packets had rotting plants, but I selected two nice and green healthy ones – Philodendron sp. ‘Pink Princess,’ and Philodendron sp. ‘White Knight.’ In order for tissue culture to be successful, the cutting used needs to be completely sterilized, or fungus and bacteria will ruin the culture. The agar provides all the moisture and nutrients the growing plants need. Although operations can vary, once baby plantlets are observed, they are generally moved to a larger growing medium under sterile conditions. When big enough to handle, the plants are potted up and grown on like any other plant would be. The plants I bought were extremely tiny, with leaves, stems, and very small roots. I left them in the bags they came in for a few weeks, and put them under LED grow lightsto increase their size.  

                                      Small plants in growing media
                                      From first planting (top half) to seven weeks later (bottom half) with a quarter for size reference. The growth takes a very long time. (photo by M. Lisy).

                                      Once the plants looked big enough to handle, I placed them into soilless growing medium. It’s a good idea to keep them moist under a plant dome to avoid dehydration. I would regularly mist the enclosure to keep the humidity high. The plants have done extremely well. When I started to notice some fungus on the surface of my soil, I quickly increased the air flow which dried it upimmediately. I still have the plants in the dome, but with all the vents wide open. The plants have grown much bigger and are looking great. Once the plants get to the point where they could use their own pot, I will separate the biggest ones out and leave the little ones to grow on for a while.  Once they start growing after transplanting, I fertilized every time I watered.  

                                      The disadvantage of buying tissue cultured plants when they are young is that it takes a long time for them to reach a respectable size. It is also difficult to see what they actually look like and can be difficult to separate the baby plants. There are, however, many advantages.  Plants are very cheap, numerous, and free from pests and diseases. The grower also gets a special sense of accomplishment when the plants are raised from little plantlets to full grown adults!  

                                      For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.ladybug.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.  

                                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant Feb. 1, 2025

                                      Reducing Lawn Areas to Enhance Property

                                      Posted on by

                                      By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                      Grass alternative landscape planting under dense shade tree.
                                      Grass alternative landscape planting under dense shade tree. Photo by Pamm Cooper

                                      The trend in North America of having a lawn surrounding a house is not a world-wide one. As a matter of fact, it’s only since the 1940s that American lawns took a turn toward a neat, manicured, park- like atmosphere. Almost every house that is built today features a lawn and some type of decorative plantings. Shrubs are planted along the foundations of houses, and often an ornamental tree or two are strategically planted to accent the landscape. It creates the idea of a little park surrounding every home, accented with walls, decks or a patio according to individual preference.

                                      Sometimes it is desirable to reduce lawn areas, especially when an acceptable turf grass stand cannot be maintained without a great deal of expense or work. A lawn is not like a garden that can be tilled over and started anew when things turn out poorly. A lawn is intended to be a permanent part of the landscape. Problem areas that chronically fail to produce the desired dense stand of turf grass may need to be converted into something else. The idea should be to look at the home landscape as a property, and not necessarily as a lawn.

                                      The best way to begin determining what may look better on your property may be to take a drive around your area and see what other people have done. This is especially helpful when dealing with shade problems where grass can’t be grown so that it fills in properly. Sometimes homeowners have limbed up trees, like oaks or maples, to allow enough sun to grow a suitable stand of grass. Some people have given up and may have tried some other type of planting. As an example, Flowering Dogwoods are native trees which do best planted beneath taller trees with no grass or other plant within three feet of their trunk. Sometimes you see ground covers planted around the bases of trees, filling in up to the point where grass can form an acceptable dense stand.

                                      There are some properties that have no lawn areas at all. Instead, perennial flowers, ornamental grasses, shrubs, and walkways are incorporated sometimes with a grass walkway. Almost any plants and trees can be selected if they are suitable for our climate zone and soil type. Keep in mind, though, that there may be quite a bit of maintenance involved in any landscape planting. Even low maintenance plants may need to be pruned or divided periodically.

                                      Modified mowing is another way to reduce lawn area. This works especially well where there is a large area that can be left uncut for most of the year. In spring, before letting the grass grow, a wildflower mix suitable for the site can be scattered in. Or the grass can just be left alone and mowed down in the spring or fall to keep it tidy and prevent trees from getting established. Often the uncut area is contoured to enhance a driveway or other feature.

                                      A lawn can drastically affect one’s enjoyment of one’s home landscape. Turf can be looked at as more of a “floor of a garden,” rather than as the focus of the property. If having a great looking lawn is out of reach, consider alternatives that can enhance both the visual appearance of your home and the overall enjoyment of being at home.  Where a lawn constantly struggles, do not hesitate to consider planting something else. It will help lessen the load of things to worry about.

                                      For questions about lawns, lawn alternatives or other gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant Jan. 25, 2025

                                      All-America Selection Winners for 2025

                                      Posted on by

                                      by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                      Each winter the All-America Selection winners are announced. This non-profit organization has established trial gardens throughout the United States and even as far north as Canada. New varieties, species or strains of annuals, vegetables and bedding plants are grown and judged on their performance. Those chosen as winners are outstanding plants and deserve a trial in your gardens as well.

                                      This year’s national winners include 3 vegetables and 5 flowers. ‘Green Lightening’ is a very attractive, striped pattypan squash that tastes as good as it looks. The 5-inch or so fruits weigh in at 1 to 2 pounds and are ready to pick about 50 days after planting from seed. Judges marveled at the abundant yields on these 2 feet high, bushy plants.

                                      Kohlrabi 'Konstance'
                                      Kohlrabi ‘Konstance’ Image by all-americaselections.org

                                      Kohlrabi ‘Konstance’ exudes a vibrant purple color as well as a sweet, crunchy texture. A curious but easy to grow and tasty addition to the vegetable garden, this kohlrabi matures at just 42 days from seed. Upright plants, about a foot high, produce round, purple 4 to 5-inch ‘bulbs’ that can be eaten fresh or served roasted or sauteed. Fruits are crack-resistant and plants resistant to several diseases.

                                      Sweet pepper ‘Pick-N-Pop Yellow’ produces adorable, snack-size, extra sweet mini peppers. The pointed, conical fruits are about 4 inches long springing from compact 2-foot-tall plants. The prolific harvest begins about 65 days after transplanting. This variety shows great resistance to bacterial leaf spot.

                                      One can never have too many dahlias and this year’s AAS winner, ‘Black Forest Ruby’ is a gem that can be started from seed. Since this variety is an octoploid (having 8 times the normal chromosome number) there is much variability in flower shape (ranging from single to double), plant height and structure. Most will be upright about 2 feet high with jet black foliage and ruby-red flowers. You can save tubers from the best-looking plants.

                                      Dianthus ‘Interspecific Capitan™ Magnifica’ with its impressive bicolor pink and white frilly blooms looks as good in the garden as it does in a vase. Plus, the more you cut, the more blooms appear. Summer heat tolerance was impressive with the 2-inch flower heads also standing up to rain and cold. Plants range from 1 to 1 ½ feet tall and bloom all summer. Look for these vegetatively propagated plants at your local garden center.

                                      Sunny sites will positively shimmy when planted with marigold Mango Tango. This rich red and primrose yellow bicolor blooms all summer long even without deadheading. Reaching only 8 to 10 inches in height makes it perfect for edging garden beds, containers or window boxes. Seeds can be started indoors and plants set out after the danger of frost has passed. Fertilize and water regularly for bountiful blooms.

                                      Can there be too many petunias? ‘Petunia Shake™ Raspberry’ will convince you that there’s always room for one more. The fantastic flowers are reminiscent of a blended raspberry milkshake swirled with lemon-lime green sorbet. The 5 to 8 inch mounded plants can do front of the border duty, serve as groundcovers or billow over hanging baskets. Plants will bloom about 70 days from seed and hold up to heat and rain.

                                      Snapdragon Double Shot Yellow-Red-Heart
                                      Snapdragon‘DoubleShot™ Yellow Red Heart’Image by all-americaselections.org

                                      I’ve never thought of snapdragons as fragrant, yet ‘DoubleShot™ Yellow Red Heart’ is said to have an amazing candy-like scent. Aside from this unusual trait, Yellow Red Heart promises to delight with vibrant yellow blossoms with a red throat that start early and continue through to a heavy frost. This snapdragon reaches about 20 inches in height with semi-double 1 to 1 ½ inch blooms produces all season long and able to tolerate light frosts.

                                      Four regional 2025 Ornamental Winners well suited to the Northeast, include one petunia and 3 nasturtiums. If you’re looking for a vibrant pink petunia great for bedding and containers, try ‘Dekko™ Maxx™ Pink’. The vibrant pink 1 to 1 ½ inch starry blooms are produced all season long and hold up well to rain and heat.

                                      Nasturtiums are top performers in garden beds and containers and are noted for their hummingbird attraction and edible leaves and flowers. New colors in the Baby series of nasturtiums to try out this year might be ‘Baby Gold’, ‘Baby Red’ and ‘Baby Yellow’. All can be grown from seed and start blooming about 50 days after sowing. Two-inch blooms cover compact 12-inch-high mounded plants. Colors are intense and plants stand up to drought, heat, cold, rain and wind. Considering our fluctuating summer weather, these are sure to do well both in the garden and in containers.

                                      Check out these and past AAS winners. They were chosen because of their remarkable characteristics and they are sure to be winners in your yard too.

                                      For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                                      Heirloom vs Hybrid – An Age-Old Garden Debate

                                      Posted on by

                                      By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                      Seed catalogs piled on a desk
                                      Seed catalogs can be overwhelming, but many have keys to help identify various traits among their products. Photo by Heather Zidack

                                      Temperatures are dropping, the holidays are over, and gardeners are starting to look towards the next growing season with excitement. Many gardeners swear by the tried-and-true heirloom varieties, while others are drawn to the disease resistance or increased vigor of hybrids. The debate over which is “best” can get heated between gardeners. Do you know the differences?

                                      Pollination is a key factor. Successful pollination occurs when pollen meets the sticky central part of a flower, known as the stigma. Fertilized seeds develop in the ovary, which will then form into fruit. Over the span of thousands of years, tasty fruit has proven to be a good way to help with seed dispersal in the environment. And taste, along with many other traits, have helped humans decide what plants to cultivate.

                                      Hybrid seeds, also commonly referred to as “F1” or “F1 hybrids,” have been developed through selective breeding. To create an F1 hybrid, breeders have selected parent plants with desirable traits and pollinated them under controlled conditions. While it sounds easy enough, lineages can be tricky. It can be time consuming for plant breeders and some will spend years of their career trying to achieve a specific outcome.

                                      F1 hybrids are often praised for their environmental resilience and higher yields, among other traits. They may be less reliable for seed savers, though, as the offspring of the F1 hybrids are not guaranteed to come back with the same traits as the original plant from your first season, a term we call “true to seed.”

                                      Hybrid seed should not be confused with GMO or genetically modified seeds. Hybrid seed is a product of breeding and selection and does not undergo the laboratory interventions that are needed for genetic modification. Currently, there is only one GMO product available to home gardeners, known as “The Purple Tomato.”  All other GMO seed is only available commercially and farmers using these products must sign agreements that lay out the terms of use for the seed purchased.

                                      You may find the term “open pollinated” in your search for seed. These seeds are created without direct human intervention. They have stable genetics and produce predictable traits in their offspring year after year, since they are naturally pollinated. This is great news for those gardeners who enjoy saving their own seed.

                                      It is best to plant open pollinated varieties of similar species away from each other to avoid random cross-pollination. Alternatively, gardeners cand hand pollinate a few flowers and keep them covered. For this, I recommend mesh party favor bags that allow for the fruit to expand. Allow the fruit to develop and harvest them specifically for their seed.

                                      Heirloom seeds are open pollinated plants that have been passed down usually over generations. Often, there is a local history or cultural significance that comes with them. You can find interesting physical traits and some beneficial resistances from heirloom seeds. Since they are open pollinated, their genetics are more likely to be stable and produce true to seed offspring for seed savers, as well.

                                      At the end of the day, I always advise gardeners to look beyond the title and really assess what is going to meet your needs and make your experience most enjoyable. If you love to tell a story with your garden, and enjoy saving your seeds year after year, an heirloom variety might be the perfect fit! On the other hand, if you bring home a packet of tomato seeds that have been bred for small space gardening, and you plan to buy new seeds every year, then enjoy that tomato to its fullest! There are many gardens out there with a beautiful blend of both.

                                      If you have questions about seed selection, or for other gardening questions, contact the UCONN Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit their web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant Jan. 11, 2025

                                      Seed Shopping, Houseplants, & Other January News

                                      Posted on by
                                      January 2025

                                      "Anyone who thinks that gardening begins in the spring and ends in the fall is missing the best part of the whole year; for gardening begins in January with the dream"

                                      — Josephine Neuse

                                      Time to Start Seed Shopping

                                      Seed catalogs piled on a desk
                                      Look through multiple seed catalogs not only to get the best price, but to find valuable growing and cultural information. Photo by H. Zidack

                                      As gardeners settle in for the winter and begin to peruse the pile of seed catalogs, there are many things to consider. Picture books full of vibrant new fruits, vegetables and flowers can tempt us to try something new, while some gardeners have their annual seed order down to a science.

                                      Here are a few things to consider when selecting seed varieties for your garden: 

                                      • History of pests, disease, and even environmental conditions in your garden
                                      • What you plan to use the end product for:
                                        • Some varieties of vegetables are better for long term storage, while others are best enjoyed fresh after harvest. 
                                        • If selecting flowers for cutting, go with long stem or taller varieties
                                      • Days to maturity/harvest can determine how long your growing season will be for a specific crop. Selecting types with a shorter growing season may allow for a second planting, while selecting longer season varieties may fit your gardening practices better. 

                                      The Basics of Selecting Garden Seeds

                                      Seed Catalogs Made Easy

                                      Good Sources for Flower & Vegetable Seeds

                                      Heirloom or Hybrid?

                                      It's a gardening debate that spans generations. As new varieties are introduced, and others continue to hold true - many find themselves asking "Which is best?"and the answer is not always so cut and dry.

                                      Hybrid varieties are often quick to boast disease or environmental tolerance and great production rates. While heirlooms claim to be tried and true and bring more genetic diversity to your garden. In addition, not all seeds are meant to be harvested and saved for the next growing season, so it's important to know what you've planted to continue a successful garden in future seasons.

                                      Take your gardening needs into consideration when selecting seeds. Heirloom tomatoes, for example, are great in the home garden - but hybridized patio tomatoes may be better suited for condo or apartment living. Look at the traits of the specific variety beyond whether they are heirloom or hybrid to see if the variety will meet your goals in the garden and pantry.

                                      Heirlooms & Hybrids

                                      Heirloom Vegetable Varieties

                                      Understanding F1 Hyrbid Seeds

                                      Helping Houseplants Through the Winter

                                      Clivia
                                      Photo by H. Zidack

                                      Many people out there bring in or adopt new houseplants during the winter to help them through the winter blues. It can be a delicate time of year for these plants as many are tropical and enjoy warmer environments.

                                      Common mistakes:

                                      • Under watering - It can be a challenge to remember to water your house plants. We are all much more aware of hydration (for ourselves as well as our plants) during warmer months, but can often forget when it is cooler and our plants seem to "pause" growth. 
                                      • Overwatering - When we haven't watered in what feels like a long time (to us), many of us will "add some extra" water in an attempt to love or help a struggling plant. This can do more harm than good.
                                      • Not Scouting - Houseplants are far from "set it and forget it" for the winter season. Oftentimes, pest problems seem to come out of nowhere when regular check ins are not practiced. Look at the overall health of the plant when you are watering and when you walk by. 

                                      Winter Care of Houseplants

                                      Winter Indoor Pant Problems

                                      Houseplant Care During Winter

                                      Word from the WiSE

                                      Go Green, Try Microgreens!
                                      This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology bring you a word on indoor gardening for winter time: Nutrient packed, easy-to-grow microgreens.

                                      Microgreens can be grown from many types of seeds, including herbs, flowers, and vegetables. Radish and arugula are spicy and easy to grow. If you are feeling adventurous, try mizuna or shiso. Feeling festive? Try flower sprouts like marigold, celosia, or sunflowers. Beginners can try daikon radish or basil. Daikon grow rapidly, ready to harvest within a week. Basil is tender and fragrant and takes about 14 days to go from sprout to harvest.

                                      Growing microgreens at home is a simple way to add more nutrients to your diet. If you don’t have greenhouse trays at home, you can either buy a kit, or even substitute in upcycled aluminum to-go containers or catering dishes from the holidays. All you need are some seeds, potting mix, water, and a few trays to grow in. Wait until sprouts are a few inches tall, then grab a bunch and cut them near the soil with scissors. Add them to soups and salads and enjoy fresh sprouts all winter!

                                      By Julie-Ann Adorno – Soil Science Masters Student, UConn PSLA
                                      .

                                      Weather Outlook

                                      A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

                                          Temperature map
                                      Precipitation Outlook

                                      Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                                            • Winter Festival 2025 - February 1, 2025, Torrington CT​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

                                                Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                                                          CT Flower & Garden Show 2025

                                                            The UConn Home & Garden Education Center will have our booth at the CT Flower Show this year! Come and say hello to our Plant & Soil Health Staff and Master Gardener Volunteers!
                                                            Flower Show 2025

                                                            Speakers & Presentations from the UConn Plant & Soil Health Team
                                                            • Thursday 2/20 - 11:00 AM
                                                              • Al's Top Secret Compost Recipe
                                                                • ​​​​​​​Alastair Ong, Esq., UConn Master Composter
                                                            • Friday 2/21 - 12:30 PM
                                                              •  Look at Interesting Connecticut Lichens and Slime Molds
                                                                • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
                                                            • Saturday 2/22 - 12:30 PM
                                                              • ​​​​​​​Learning to Speak Horticulture
                                                                • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center
                                                            • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Sunday 2/23 - 11:00 AM 
                                                              • Be a Plant P.I. Learn to Detect, Identify and Prevent Plant Diseases
                                                                • ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Dr. Nick Goltz, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                                                            January Gardening Tips

                                                                      • Check for frost heaving on perennials during thaws and press back into place. Cover the crowns with extra mulch as necessary.
                                                                      • Inspect stored bulbs, tubers and corms for rot or infestation. Discard those showing signs of decay or insect damage.
                                                                      • Houseplants with large leaves and smooth foliage such as philodendrons, dracaena and rubber plant benefit if their leaves are washed at intervals to remove dust and grime, helping keep the leaf pores open.
                                                                      • Check all house plants closely for insect infestations. Quarantine gift plants until you determine that they are not harboring any pests. Inspect under leaves for infestations of whitefly and spider mites; check between leaves and stems for white, cottony mealybugs, and look under leaves and on stems for scale insects. Apply insecticidal soap or another low toxicity insecticide, crush or brush off as appropriate. 
                                                                      • To determine how many seeds to order, map out your garden on graph paper, allowing adequate space between rows and ample room for vining crops such as pumpkins and winter squash. 
                                                                      • At month's end, start seeds of onions, leeks, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower indoors under lights. 
                                                                      • Brush snow from evergreens as soon as possible after a storm. Use a broom in an upward, sweeping motion. Serious damage may be caused by heavy snow or ice accumulating on the branches.
                                                                      • When you are finished with holiday evergreen boughs, use them to mulch tender perennials and shrubs. 
                                                                      • If you have a real Christmas tree, recycle it after the holidays are through. Cut off branches and use as insulation over perennials. In spring, chip or shred branches to create mulch or add to the compost pile.
                                                                      • To control bagworm on shrubs and trees, look for the small stick-covered 'bags' and remove by hand. 
                                                                      • Clean bird feeders and baths regularly to avoid the spread of avian diseases. Disinfect feeders and baths monthly with a solution of 1-part bleach to 9-parts water. Clean droppings off and make sure the bird food isn’t moldy.

                                                                      This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                                                      Heather Zidack, Julie-Ann Adorno

                                                                       

                                                                      Plant Hazards to Avoid this Holiday Season

                                                                      Posted on by

                                                                       By Nick Goltz, DPM, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                                                                      Tree with lights
                                                                      Using low-heat LED lights is a great way to reduce fire risk while keeping things festive. The stewards of this tree took the extra step of installing a rope fence to discourage visitors from damaging the tree or lights. (Photo taken by Nick Goltz)

                                                                      Using low-heat LED lights is a great way to reduce fire risk while keeping things festive. The stewards of this tree toko the extra step of installing a rope fence to discourage visitors from damaging the tree or lights. (Photo taken by Nick Goltz)

                                                                      With the holidays upon us, many of us are focusing, with good reason, on last-minute gifts, travelling, reconnecting with loved ones, and all the joy and stress that will inevitably come with it. With all the hustle and bustle of the season, it can be easy to overlook some of the safety hazards that also come about this time each year, especially those involving the holiday plants that we rarely give a second thought.

                                                                      On countless desks, coffee tables, and, in warmer climes, doorsteps, you are likely to encounter at least a dozen poinsettias this December. Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are some of the most conspicuous and popular plants associated with the holiday season here in the US. They are often thought to be highly poisonous if ingested. While ingestion may cause some mouth and skin irritation and gastrointestinal upset, sometimes with some associated vomiting or diarrhea in small animals, poinsettias are vastly “overhyped” with their supposed toxicity.

                                                                      There is no documented case of human fatality associated with poinsettia ingestion, and most calls to poison control lines for ingestion report no adverse symptoms whatsoever. Medical intervention is usually unnecessary for people or pets that ingest the plant, except for those with allergic reactions to related plants (particularly those with latex sensitivity). For more information on poinsettias and their fascinating history, see Heather Zidack’s column from mid-November, “Poinsettias: The Story of a Holiday Treasure”. While poinsettias may be overblown with regard to their supposed toxicity, other common plants one might see around the holidays, including amaryllis and mistletoe, are quite toxic to humans and pets if ingested.

                                                                      What we call “amaryllis” in most stores and garden centers is likely not the true South African amaryllis (Amaryllis belladonna), but rather a related South American plant in the genus Hippeastrum, which has been cultivated more extensively and has a greater number of cultivars on the market. Both are bulbous tropical plants that bloom in winter in the northern hemisphere, and both are poisonous if ingested. The bulb, commonly sold waxed or bare in stores around the holidays to be used as a table centerpiece or hostess gift, is especially toxic and should be kept away from pets and children. If you’re curious to learn more about the history and cultivation of this holiday plant, check out Dr. Matt Lisy’s recent blog post, “Amazing Amaryllis” on the UConn Home & Garden Center’s very own Ladybug Blog (https://uconnladybug.wordpress.com/).

                                                                      Though in antiquity it represented fertility and offered protection from evil, mistletoe (usually Viscum album, European mistletoe and Phoradendron leucarpum, American mistletoe) has been associated with Christmas since some point in the late 1700’s. Though lovers may steal a kiss or two beneath the mistletoe this Christmas, be sure the mistletoe can’t be stolen by children or pets as you decorate for your holiday party! Although European mistletoe is more toxic than American mistletoe, both plants are dangerous if ingested, particularly by pets and children, who may be attracted to the small white berries that have a high concentration of toxin. If you know someone that accidentally ingests a plant not known to be edible, be sure to contact the poison control hotline by calling 1-800-222-1222 or by visiting https://www.poison.org. For pets, contact the ASPCA poison control hotline by calling 1-888-426-4435 or by visiting https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control. Conveniently, they have a poisonous plants list on this site that you can reference as you shop at your local nursery or garden center.

                                                                      Though thankfully Christmas trees (typically fir, pine, or spruce) are not known to be toxic to pets if ingested, the sharp needles can cause injury if ingested and the trees themselves can pose other hazards if not maintained with care! If you have a pet that likes to chew through wires (there is a scene in a famous Christmas movie that likely comes to mind), be sure to keep those out of reach, or perhaps opt for battery-powered illuminating ornaments. For their safety and yours, cats and birds should always be discouraged from climbing or flying into your tree!

                                                                      Finally, though we all can appreciate rustic and vintage holiday décor, another strategy to reduce the risk of fire this holiday season is to upgrade your string lights to low-heat LEDs. Whatever type of string light you use, unplug it before you go to bed to help reduce fire risk. If you use a live tree, be sure to keep it watered as dehydrated trees are more likely to catch fire.

                                                                      With these tips in mind, the Plant and Soil Health team at UConn wishes you and your loved ones a safe, joyous, and restorative holiday season! For questions regarding winter plant safety or for any other gardening questions throughout the year, contact the UConn Home & Garden Education Center for free advice by calling (877) 486-6271, toll-free, visit our web site at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/, or contact your local Cooperative Extension Center.

                                                                      This is For the Birds!

                                                                      Posted on by

                                                                      By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                                                      A titmouse standing on a bowl of water
                                                                      Titmouse on the solar sipper. Photo by Dawn Pettinelli

                                                                      As December brings frigid temperatures and snowy landscapes to Connecticut, our feathered friends face unique challenges in finding the resources they need to survive. Shorter days and frozen ground make food and water scarcer, while icy winds and snow create harsh conditions for shelter. By providing birds with seed, water, and shelter, you may be making a significant difference in their survival and well-being during this often challenging season.

                                                                      Winter robs many birds of their natural food sources like insects, berries, and seeds. While it is true that birds can survive without our subsidies, supplemental feeding can provide extra energy that birds need to maintain their body heat. In December, focus on offering high-calorie foods that cater to a variety of species common to Connecticut, such as chickadees, cardinals, juncos, and woodpeckers.

                                                                      Many types of bird feeders are available including hopper and platform feeders, tubes, and suet cages. Whichever you choose, it should be one that can be washed out every week or so. Uneaten seed pieces and other debris can mold plus there is the chance of contagions whenever living creatures congregate.

                                                                      Feeding the birds is a popular activity and there are many types of seeds, seed mixes and other foods available for purchase. Black-oil sunflower seeds are a favorite of many birds, thanks to their high-fat content and thin shells, which are easy to crack. You can buy shelled seeds to minimize the pile of shells that accumulates under the feeder. Smaller white safflower seeds are included in many seed mixes and are reputed to be a favorite of cardinals. Thistle or Niger seeds are a sought-after treat for finches and other small birds. I have only tried using a thistle sock once and found it got soggy, and the seeds froze so maybe a specialized tube feeder would be the way to go if offering this food source.

                                                                      Unshelled peanuts are a great fuel for birds supplying both protein and fat. They are also a sure way to attract squirrels. I have been buying unsalted, dry roasted peanuts and put a few handfuls on my porch railing each morning when I put out the water bowl for the birds. There’s a regular assortment of birds who eagerly await their morning breakfast and the peanuts are gobbled up by titmice, chickadees, flickers, downy woodpeckers and blue jays before the squirrel even has a chance to make it to the porch from the woods.

                                                                      A good seed mix for the feeder should contain a variety of food items including black-oil sunflower seed, cracked corn, safflower, peanut chips, white prose millet, and maybe some sunflower hearts and dried fruit. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for, and cheaper mixes often contain that red milo and other fillers that birds in our area are not partial to. If you notice piles of uneaten seeds under your feeders, try switching to another seed mix.

                                                                      Many bird species, but especially insect eaters, really love suet. Packed with fat, suet provides essential energy and attracts woodpeckers, nuthatches, blue jays and I’ve even had crows in queue for their turn at the suet feeder. Opt for suet mixed with seeds, berries, nuts or mealworms for added nutrition.

                                                                      Place feeders in somewhat sheltered areas to protect birds from the winds but make sure that they are not located near where predators can hide. Refill regularly, as food is quickly consumed in cold weather. Be on the lookout for bears. Typically, they are not a problem from mid-December through mid-March but if a bear finds your feeder, bring it in and cease feeding.

                                                                      During a typical, cold winter water is a rare and precious resource. While snow can provide hydration, many birds prefer liquid water for drinking and bathing. Maintaining a water source in freezing temperatures can be a lifesaver. I opt for a Solar Sipper that I have had for years. It is just a bowl inside a bowl with a cover that has a hole in the top. It keeps the water from freezing down into the 20s, especially on a sunny day. I just bring it in at night, wash it and put out clean water in the morning. Heated birdbaths are another more hi-tech option.

                                                                      December’s freezing temperatures and strong winds make safe shelter essential for birds. They need places to roost, stay warm, and avoid predators. Encourage birds to stay in your yard by planting native trees, shrubs, and evergreens. Dense conifers like spruce, hemlock, and pine provide excellent cover from snow and wind. Additionally, leaving leaf piles or brush heaps in your yard creates ground-level shelter for birds like sparrows and juncos. Refrain from cutting back seedheads from coneflowers, coreopsis, goldenrods, sunflowers and native grasses to provide natural seed sources.

                                                                      Providing food, water, and shelter not only supports birds during the toughest months but also brings joy to your home. Watching vibrant cardinals against the snow or hearing the cheerful calls of chickadees can brighten even the coldest day. By creating a welcoming space for birds in your backyard, you contribute to their survival and get to enjoy the beauty of nature during winter’s quiet, cold days.

                                                                      For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.

                                                                      ‘Tis the Season for Holiday Plants

                                                                      Posted on by

                                                                      By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

                                                                      Yellow, white, and red poinsettias
                                                                      The yellow Poinsettia on the left bottom corner really stands out from the traditional white. Photo by M. Lisy.

                                                                      Once again, the winter holiday season is upon us!  I am sure I have said this before, but I never cease to be amazed at the seemingly endless varieties of holiday plants available.  This year, I planned on not buying any holiday plants, but one trip to two local greenhouses changed my mind immediately.  If one plant could exemplify the season, it would be the Poinsettia.  Although red and white Poinsettias have been the standard for many years, there are a lot of really neat colors available if you look hard enough.  One of my all-time favorites is orange.  I used to grow this variety when it first came out, and could never stock enough of them.  In the old days, you needed to set it next to a red one to tell the difference, but fast forward many years, and the orange is now much more intense and can stand alone in all its glory.

                                                                      If I had to pick just one favorite Poinsettia, it would be the yellow.  It just looks so unusual and unlike anything else.  I first saw it years ago in small quantities in a big box store, but now they are much more common.  The regular white has a slight yellow tint to it, but there is a super bright white that looks as pure as freshly fallen snow.  Another new favorite is called “Christmas Mouse,” and has rounded leaves that resemble mouse ears in contrast to the normal pointed ones.  Of course, there are also Poinsettias that are actually spray painted with a plant-safe paint.  These plants usually also have glitter sprinkled onto them.  Even though these are artificial looking, they are beautiful works of art in their own right.

                                                                      There are new varieties of cyclamen around too.  These are characterized by interestingly shaped flowers that are more open.  Some of the varieties even have the flowers turned upright.  The colors are amazing and range from dark maroon reds to almost neon pink.  Another plant I am really excited to see this year is the Amaryllis.  These have been around an extremely long time, but what changed is the number of places carrying many different varieties for sale.  I like when I can just buy the bulb and pot it up on my own.  This is less expensive and allows me to buy more varieties.  There are even some places selling the bulbs with a type of paint coating on them which is said to eliminates the need for watering.  I prefer a bulb in a pot as I think it looks more natural, but that is a matter of opinion.  What I have seen a lot less of this year is the Christmas Cactus.  While they are still around, their numbers are not nearly as plentiful as in the past.  The Amaryllis and Christmas cactus are the two plants you can keep long term.  They each have special care routines that you will need to follow to get them to bloom again the following year.  The Christmas cacti need a certain lighting (or darkness) period, and the Amaryllis need a dry dormant period.

                                                                      Wherever you are going for the holidays, I suggest bringing one of these festive plants to the host as a gift.  There is nothing more cheerful than a brightly colored plant during the dark days of winter.  On that note, why not buy some for yourself and enjoy them all season?  Either way, I suggest you make the most of things with a nice new plant variety that you never had before.  There certainly are plenty from which to choose!

                                                                      Cyclamen in flower and amaryllis bulbs
                                                                      A beautiful new cyclamen variety and a few large Amaryllis bulbs. Photo by M. Lisy.

                                                                      For your gardening questions, feel free to contact us, toll-free, at the UConn Home & Garden Education Center at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at www.ladybug.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension center.