Invasive Plants

Invasive or Aggressive? Why the Difference Matters in Your Garden

By Dr. Lauren Kurtz, UConn Home Garden Education Office

Wide meadow filled with tall yellow wildflowers under a clear blue sky, bordered by trees and distant low hills in the background.
Canada goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) is an aggressive, native plant. Photo by Lauren Kurtz

You’re in the garden, staring at that same patch of weeds spreading year after year into your flower beds. You grumble how invasive they are. Or are they aggressive? Conversationally, both invasive and aggressive paint the same picture but if you read the fine print, they mean different things.

In everyday conversation, the two words can sound interchangeable. In horticulture and ecology, however, they mean different things. That distinction can shape how we manage plants, communicate with other gardeners and landscape professionals, and understand the regulations that apply to certain species. Gardening lingo can be nuanced and details matter.

Let’s begin with the broadest term: weed. A weed is simply a plant growing where it is not wanted. A weed may be otherwise desirable when it’s growing where we want it. Ralph Waldo Emerson famously said a weed is “a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered.” A weed is more a description of where a plant is growing; it does not give away information about the plant’s provenance or growth habit.

Aggressive describes the growth behavior of a plant. Weeds and plants we grow in our gardens can be aggressive. Native and nonnative plants can be aggressive too. Aggressive plants can outcompete other plants for resources and outgrow the space allotted to them. Not all aggressive plants are invasive, but in some cases an aggressive, non-native plant can be categorized as invasive.

Invasive plants are nonnative and have demonstrated the ability to spread aggressively, establish outside of cultivation into natural areas, and outcompete native plants. People have introduced plants beyond their native ranges for centuries both intentionally and unintentionally. Most introduced, nonnative plants do not become invasive, but those that do can cause significant, costly problems for landowners, communities, and land managers. Invasive plants often have legal or regulatory implications.

The way invasive plants are regulated varies state to state. In Connecticut, a plant is considered invasive if it meets a set of ecological criteria outlined in Connecticut General Statutes 22a-381a. Connecticut’s Invasive Plants Council uses these criteria to recommend which plants belong on the state’s invasive plant list. The list is periodically updated by the State legislature as additional plants meeting the invasive plant criteria are identified. There are more than 100 plants on Connecticut’s invasive plant list.

What does it mean for a plant to be native or nonnative? Native plants are species that have occurred in a region without the benefit of human introduction. Depending on the context, native can mean native to the United States, to New England, to Connecticut, or to a smaller locale. There are different opinions about what makes a plant native and at what geographic scale. The most important consideration is that native plants coevolved alongside other species in their native range and are part of the greater ecological community. Native plants can be considered aggressive, but they are not considered invasive.

In summary, what defines a weed is a matter of opinion. Aggressive plants have robust growth, can be native or nonnative, and are sometimes further classified as invasive. All invasive plants are nonnative and are usually aggressive.

The UConn Home Garden Education Office at the George Leigh Minor Plant and Soil Health Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website athomegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center atextension.uconn.edu/locations.

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 16, 2026

These are damaging plants to avoid in CT gardens. They can kill native plant species and take over.

These are damaging plants to avoid in CT gardens. They can kill native plant species and take over.

The Hartford Courant – Dr. Lauren Kurtz discusses how native plants attract birds and pollinators, while invasive species harm ecosystems and what residents can do in their own gardens.

Weed Management for Late Summer

By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

With a perfect combination of warm days, cool nights, and plenty of rain, every gardener has been fighting weeds since this summer began! To add to the frustration, the weather patterns themselves have felt like they have fallen on weekends, holidays, and all those precious hours that we love to be spending in the garden, making it difficult to get out and manage what is there. So how do we catch up?  

A person using a weed wacker
Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

I’m sorry to say that the adage of “pick your battles” is going to be the best strategy to keep you from “getting lost in the weeds.” Mechanical removal like string trimming, mowing, or cultivating your garden are always effective. But some of us are looking for something that feels more efficient or saves our back from hours of labor-intensive weed pulling in this summer heat. Strategizing more long-term goals for your planting beds and lawns might be better for you than running outside with your garden weasel right now.  

We’ve all heard “nature abhors a vacuum” before. Weeds are no different. If turf is thin, or garden beds are left with uncovered soil, weeds will pop up. Utilize groundcovers and mulches to keep soil covered. If you’re in between plantings in the vegetable garden, a temporary cover, like cardboard, may keep seeds from contacting the soil until you’re ready to plant! For more long-term coverage, consider cover crops in your vegetable gardens.  

Encourage dense plantings through proper fertilizing, watering, and care. Healthy perennials and shrubs will shade out seeds that may try to germinate below them. For lawns, consider overseeding to bulk up thinned turf areas between August 15th and September 15th.  Mulch garden beds and pathways with a minimum depth of 3 inches if groundcovers aren’t being used.  

Once you have soil coverage under control, look at the nutrition. When the soil is not nutritionally supportive, you often find compounding issues like patches where you can never get grass to grow, poor vegetable production/flowering, and lots of weeds! Many weeds can thrive in these poor soils. While weeds aren’t necessarily a definitive indicator of a nutrient problem, it can be another clue when looking at the health of your planting areas. If you kill the weeds, and the soil remains poor you can expect weeds again the following season. Therefore, testing your soil and correcting imbalances is a long term and sustainable solution.  

Some common weeds, like crabgrass, are beyond a stage where we can easily control them with methods available to the homeowner. Fear not! Crabgrass is an annual, and the plants themselves will not return next year! They, instead, propagate through seeds.  

At this point in the season, shift your focus towards minimizing next year’s seed bank. As much as we loved to “make a wish” on a dandelion as children, we were only spreading more dandelions into the yard! Keep this in mind now as you tend your garden. Cut grass before weeds can develop flowers and distribute seeds. Remove plants like pokeweed, before they have a chance to develop berries that can be carried off by animals.  

Don’t underestimate the value of a good identification. Knowing the exact species of weed in the garden can help you make a targeted approach with whatever physical, cultural, or chemical method you might be considering.  

If you must resort to chemical management, read the label in full and follow all instructions provided. At the UConn Home & Garden Education Center we do not recommend the use of anecdotal home remedies for weeds. Many of these methods are not researched. Products used in the garden should be labeled for use on a specific host, a specific pest, and have specific application instructions. As an example, while vinegar may be recommended anecdotally to use on weeds in the garden, one should only consider a product like horticultural vinegar that has a specific formulation, concentration, and a product label that clearly identifies its uses, safety precautions, and instructions for use.  

No matter what weed you are trying to manage, persistence is key. This is especially important to remember if you’re dealing with the most aggressive weeds, or even invasive plant species. Rarely do we see a single treatment leading to complete eradication. So don’t be discouraged if plants are taking multiple seasons to tackle. The CT Invasive Plant Working Group has great guidances on what you should do for specific species of invasive plants like Japanese Knotweed, Mile-A-Minute Vine, Tree of Heaven, and more.  

If you have specific questions or need help with weed identification in the lawn or garden, send us pictures, or stop by with a sample.  

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 9, 2025