By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture 

In the case of soil compaction, the early bird often does not get the worm. As temperatures rise, many Connecticut residents are eager to get back into their gardens and begin lawn care. However, after a winter marked by significant snowfall, the effects of snowmelt are still present in the form of pooling water and high soil moisture. Although the warmer weather may seem like the perfect time to begin spring yard work, it is often best to wait. Working or walking on wet soil can lead to compaction, a soil condition that can negatively impact plant health throughout the growing season. Wet soils are more easily compacted than dry soils, and once compacted, they are much harder to remediate.  

Soil compaction restricts root growth, making it difficult for plants to access water, nutrients, and oxygen. As a result, plants may show reduced growth and lower yields. Compacted soils also limit water infiltration, which can lead to increased runoff during spring precipitation events. This not only reduces water availability for plants but can also contribute to soil erosion and water pollution, particularly in areas located near streams, ponds, and other water bodies.  

Soil microorganisms are impacted by compaction, some of which are responsible for soil nutrient cycling. For example, compaction reduces pore space, which holds oxygen and a lack of oxygen in the soil can increase the rate in which some bacteria perform denitrification, a gaseous loss of nitrogen to the atmosphere. Other soil organisms are impacted as well. Non-burrowing animals, such as mites and springtails, have difficulty penetrating compacted soil, and there is often a decline in burrowing species like earthworms, ants, and beetles.  

Common causes of soil compaction include heavy foot traffic and the use of equipment such as lawn mowers, spreaders, and vehicles. Following the same consistent pathway through your yard and garden, even if it seems insignificant, can lead to substantial compaction overtime, especially in high soil moisture conditions. Homeowners should also be cautious about allowing heavy vehicles, such as mulch delivery trucks or off-street parking, onto lawns when soils are wet. Additionally, tilling wet soil can do more harm than good by creating dense soil layers and deep ruts. It is important to wait until soils have dried sufficiently before working them. 

To assess whether soil is compacted, start with a visual inspection. Areas with poor plant growth, shallow roots, or standing water after rainfall may indicate compaction. Simple field tests can provide further insight. One method is to dig into the soil with a shovel or spade a few days after a rainstorm. Signs of compaction include surface crusting, plate-like soil structure (resembling stacked dinner plates), or large, dense clods. Another method is to perform a soil hardness test. A few days after rain, try pushing a wire flag or similar probing object into the soil. Hold the flag at the top and press the wire into the soil without bending it. This test is most accurate when soils are moist but not saturated, and care should be taken to avoid rocks. If the probe penetrates less than 4 inches, the soil is considered compacted.  

Preventing soil compaction is far easier than correcting it. Avoid walking on garden beds and refrain from working soils when they are wet. Use lighter equipment whenever possible and maintain ground cover to protect the soil surface. If necessary, aerate compacted soils and incorporate compost or organic matter to encourage biological activity from soil organisms that naturally improve soil structure. While organic residues such as compost can help cushion the effects of compaction, excessive traffic will degrade these materials over time. Soils with low organic matter are especially vulnerable to compaction, making regular amendment essential. 

Patience in early spring can pay off throughout the growing season. Waiting until soils are drier before beginning yard work will help protect soil structure, promote healthy plant growth, and support long-term landscape sustainability. 

The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at extension.uconn.edu/locations. 

This article was published in the Hartford Courant April 4, 2026

By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

Back in the late1970s when I stumbled upon my mother’s abandoned houseplant book, I had no idea what impact that would have on my life.  It was a treasure-trove of knowledge for me, and came with a gallery of some of the most common houseplants.  One in particular caught my eye – the Heartleaf Philodendron.  I was immediately in love (see what I did there?).  All jokes aside, this was one of the biggest staples of the houseplant world, and it still is.  Characterized by green heart-shaped leaves, they were commonly displayed in macramé plant hangers.   

 These plants, like many of our houseplants, come from humid tropical Central and South American forests.  The word Philodendron comes from the Greek and means “tree lover.”  This name serves as both the scientific and the common name.  As one would expect, plants in this genus grow on trees in some fashion.  Of course there are exceptions, but most will readily grow up moss poles if provided.  A number of the species are perfectly suited to life in a hanging basket, and are commonly referred to as “trailing” to describe their growth habit.  A few of my favorite trailing-types are the ones I will focus on for this article.  Trailing Philodendrons are one of the easiest plants to grow and also the easiest plants to kill.  The secret to their success is to not over water them.  The top inch or two of the soil should dry out before they are watered again.  They are very unforgiving to overwatering, and quickly develop a fungal infection that will fist cause many leaves to drop, and then the vines will wither and die.  Many people see this and assume the plant needs more water, and then accidentally ensure the plant’s death.  If they are put outside for the summer, I recommend hanging them under a covered porch so the watering is controlled.  

The old-school Heartleaf Philodendron was just the beginning.  It is known as Philodendron hederaceum by scientists.  It may be incorrectly labeled as Philodendron cordatum, but this is an older/inaccurate name and beyond the scope of this article.  One modern favorite variety is called Lemon Lime.  As expected, it has some light green to yellow leaves in bright light.  Next to the regular green, this variety really stands out.  Lemon Lime is similar to one I had thirty years ago called Lemon which had only yellow leaves.  There is another new one called Neon that has all yellow leaves as well.  It is hard to know if these are true varieties or repackaged versions of the old Lemon with newer names.  Brazil is another very hardy variety that has green leaves with a large, thick yellow stripe down the center of each leaf.  There is variability in the amount of yellow in each leaf, which adds further interest to the plant.  A similar but more striking variety is called Silver Stripe.  This plant has a thinner stripe down the middle that is mostly cream or silver colored.  This was extremely expensive last year, but is much more common and therefore cheaper now.   

 There are a number of different species with similar appearance and growth habits to our P. hederaceum.  One of the real stand-outs is the Philodendron brandtianum, commonly referred to as the Silver Leaf Philodendron or Philodendron Brandi.  The leaves are a gorgeous true silver color with green stripes following the veins.  These are slower growing than the others mentioned here.  By the end of last year, it was somewhat affordable in four-inch pots.  I have yet to see it offered in a larger hanging basket (probably a few years away from that).  A close look-a-like to this plant is the Philodendron sodiroi, which is also called the Silver Leaf Philodendron.  Though less intensely silver and with paler green coloration, the leaves are larger.  I finally saw one for sale last summer but passed on it as I think it was a mislabeled P. brandtianum.  Nevertheless, I am sure these will be equally popular with collectors. 

From left to right: Philodendron hederaceum ‘Lemon Lime,’ ‘Brazil,’ ‘Silver Stripe,’ and Philodendron brandtianum (photos by M. Lisy). 

All of these plants are easy to propagate by cutting the stem and leaving one leaf per node.  Dip it in rooting hormone and keep it in a moist, clear-bag-covered pot and in a few months, there will be new growth.  Alternatively, they can be rooting in water, but I prefer the soil method as it doesn’t have to adapt from water to soil when transplanted. 

 I am hopeful that this article will rekindle an old flame with the Heartleaf Philodendron or its relatives.  They are all generally available now in many of the big box, online, and brick-and-mortar plant stores.  Why not pick one up to beautify the home for many years to come? 

The UConn Home Garden Education Office supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension Center at extension.uconn.edu/locations.     

This article was published in the Hartford Courant March 28, 2026