Perennials, Fall Foliage, and Other September News

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September 2025

“September days have the warmth of summer in their briefer hours, but in their lengthening evenings a prophetic breath of autumn.”

— Rowland E. Robinson

Fall Perennial Chores

The fall is a great time to plant, transplant, and divide perennials. Here are a few tips to help you maintain your perennial gardens:

Daylily leaves emerging from the ground in spring
In the spring of 2025, the plant came back strong. Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Recently transplanted daylily wilting in the garden
Daylilies were divided and planted in the fall of 2024. The stress and shock of the move was apparent upon planting. Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

  • Divide spring blooming perennials in the autumn. Later season bloomers can be divided in the spring. 
  • If perennials start to die from the center out, it may be time to divide them. This is very common in plants like hostas and ornamental grasses. 
  • Cut perennials back to 6 inches before transplanting.
  • Aim to do your planting and transplanting 4 to 6 weeks before the first frost in order to give your plants enough time to settle in before the ground freezes.
  • Newly transplanted perennials should be adequately hydrated and monitored until the ground freezes. Plants should get one inch of water per week. If rain is not meeting that minimum, supplemental water will be needed.
  • Plant spring bulbs at this time too, including daffodils, tulips and hyacinth. 

 

Perennials

How and When to Divide Perennials

 

Fall Foliage Predictions are Here!

Fall foliage in a mountain landscape
Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

The beauty of fall leaves here in New England is undeniable, and while many of us are hanging on to the last days of summer, the changing of leaves will be here sooner than we realize!

Some sources are predicting a slightly earlier autumn change of leaves this year. And some of us have already noticed early leaf drop in our trees and shrubs at home from a stressful growing season. Weather events, environmental pressures, and the natural physiology of our beloved trees all factor in to when, why and how the leaves change colors each year. Know what to look out for so you can plan your leaf peeping accordingly!

CT DEEP Fall Foliage Report

2025 Fall Foliage Prediction Map

How Weather Affects Fall Colors

Fall Colors: A lesson in Color Theory and Chemistry

 Hope for Biologic Control of Spotted Lanternfly

Spotted Lanternfly Cornell Fact Sheet
Spotted Lanternfly Life Cycle. Photo by Cornell IPM

In the late summer/early fall, we start to see Spotted Lanternfly moths flying around, bringing a heightened awareness to this invasive pest.
As research continues, there are promising findings that native species may be starting to find and prey on the Spotted Lanternfly. While findings are still preliminary, many of the beneficial predators identified have already been found to benefit our gardens with other common pests.

Promoting a healthy garden ecosystem, removing the Tree of Heaven host plants, and regular scouting are still the best methods for control at this point, but keep an eye out for future findings!

Natural Insect Predators May Serve as Allies in Spotted Lanternfly Battle

Detection of Spotted Lanternfly by Bats

Spotted Lanternfly Resources for Connecticut

Native Plant: Fringed Gentian

Purple fringed gentian flowers
Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

Mother Nature likes to save her best flowers for last.

Fringed Gentian (Gentianopsis crinita), one of New England’s most beautiful wildflowers, makes its appearance from late August to October in wet meadows and fields, on stream banks and in moist open woods. It's one of the last native wildflowers to bloom each year in the Northeast. The flower is easily identified by its fine fringed petals and striking blue to purple-blue color. 
 

Learn More About Fringed Gentian

The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

Word from the WiSE

Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

The Best Time to Lime!

This month, we bring you a word on the best time to lime your soil. Fall is fast approaching, and it is an excellent time to have your soil pH tested for a fall application of lime. Applying lime in the fall guarantees that the lime has adequate time to react with the soil to increase the pH by spring. Lime is best applied 6 months prior to when the desired pH for the crop is needed.

pH can affect the availability of nutrients in the soil and overall plant health and growth. Natural processes like rainfall and human activities like the usage of nitrogen fertilizers can accelerate a decline in soil pH. As the soil acidifies, the solubility of aluminum and manganese can increase, which can be toxic to plants with a low tolerance. The addition of lime can raise the pH and add calcium and/or magnesium to the soil. Beneficial soil microorganisms that aid in nutrient cycling do not thrive in strongly acidic soils, as well as the bacteria that fix nitrogen in association with legume plants. Set yourself up for success in the spring and have your soil pH tested.

By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student

Weather Outlook

A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

    Temperature map

Precipitation Outlook

 

In the Garden & Pest Alerts

Baldfaced Hornets & Yellowjackets

Baldfaced hornets and yellow jackets will be active until cold weather arrives. In late summer, when flowers are scarce, they often obtain food from fallen or rotting fruit like apples, crabapples, figs, grape and others. They are very attracted to sugars and may sip from hummingbird feeders and open soda cans.

Paper nests will remain intact long after the hornets or wasps have died off due to the arrival of persistent cold weather. The nests are not used again.

Are Baldfaced Hornets Friends or Foes?

Why Are There So Many Yellowjackets in the Fall?

Baldfaced hornet on rotting fruit

Photo by Pamm Cooper,
UConn Home & Garden Education Center

UConn Pest Alerts

During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert for both vegetable and fruit producers. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

UConn Vegetable Pest Alerts

UConn Fruit Pest Messages

New England Vegetable Management Guide

Upcoming Events and Things to Do

        From late August to Mid-October, hundreds of thousands of Tree Swallows near the mouth of the Connecticut River converge at dusk and form large clouds from which they descend into the communal roost along the shoreline. Just west of the mouth of the Connecticut River in Old Lyme is Goose Island,  seventy-five acres of uninhabited reeds making it a mecca for the Tree Swallows.  There are many ways to observe this phenomenon. By boat or kayak. It is a spectacle that no one who is interested in birds should miss.

        Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products! 

                Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets! 

                Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.

                Consider attending a local farmers market, joining Community Supported Agriculture (CSA's), or even stopping by your nearest farm stand to see what they have to offer!  

                 

                September Gardening Tips

                      • Lawn seeding, whether it's renovation, repair, or spot seeding should take place between August 15th and September 15th
                      • Mid to late September is a great time to add accent plants, like vivid mums and starry asters, that will provide autumn colors in the landscape. Use them along with cool-colored ornamental cabbages and kales to replace bedraggled annuals in containers as well
                      • Visit a local nursery or garden center and select spring flowering bulbs to add to your gardens. Plant the bulbs among perennials, under trees and shrubs, or in larger groups for a splendid spring show. Choose colors that complement other spring flowering plants as well as nearby plantings. Work a little Bulb Booster or 5-10-10 into the bottom of the planting holes.
                      • Examine houseplants carefully for insect pests before bringing them back inside. Give them a good grooming if necessary. You may want to spray plants with insecticidal soap after hosing off the foliage. Let the plants dry first.
                      • As tomatoes end their production, cut down plants, pick up any debris and put dead/diseased plant parts in the trash or take to a landfill. Many diseases will over-winter on old infected leaves and stems so these are best removed from the property.
                      • If pesky seedlings of woody plants, such as maple, elm or hackberry are found growing in your yard, remove them as soon as possible so they won’t take over gardens and other landscape plantings.
                      • Continue to water any new tree, shrub, or perennial plantings until the first hard frost if fall rains are scarce.
                      • Limit herbaceous plant material located a few feet away from the house to eliminate hiding places for insects and mice that could wind up indoors as temperatures plummet.
                      • Continue to turn and moisten compost piles to speed decomposition.
                      • Scout for and remove bagworm egg masses from evergreen shrubs to eliminate the spring hatch from over-wintered eggs. 
                      • Late season cabbage and beets can stay in the garden until a light frost for best flavor. Some root crops, including certain varieties of beets, carrots and parsnips, may be left in the ground for storage. Wait until temperatures drop and growth stops and cover with a thick layer of straw or leaves. Harvest as needed during the winter. This may not be an option in areas with heavy vole populations.

                      This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                      Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Marie Woodward, Nora Doonan

                      Dodder – A Common but Weird Parasitic Plant

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                      By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Dodder plant wrapped around a host and flowering
                      Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Dodder is an obligate parasite of certain plants. This unusual member of the morning glory family is also known as “Angel’s Hair” and “Strangle Weed.” Like Indian pipe, another parasitic plant, Dodder has no chlorophyll to manufacture its own food, so nutrients and water are obtained from its host plant.  Its yellow to orange twining stems can form stringy, dense orange mats that cover its host plants, and it will often climb over other nearby plants as well. This vine twines counterclockwise around stems and other parts of its host.  Look for it in mid- July through September in damp fields or on stream and pond banks. 

                      Dodder germinates from seeds produced in earlier years. The new plants have only a few days to find a suitable host plant, or they will die. After connecting with the host plant, dodder will degrade at the soil level where it originated and is then free of any soil contact. Dodder has no leaves or roots, but it does produce flowers and then seeds.  The only way new plants can be re-established is from seed produced at least the previous year or even earlier.  

                      Dodder feeds on its host by means of small tubes called haustoria that pierce into the hosts leaf or stem vascular system. One type will siphon water from the xylem, and another type will obtain food (minerals, sugars etc.) from the phloem of the host plant. In this way, dodder obtains essential nutrients and water for its own survival at the expense of its host plant. Five-angled dodder Cuscuta pentagona, a very common dodder species found here in Connecticut does not have specialized host plant preferences. 

                      Since not all plants are suitable hosts for dodder, and because it needs to find a host quickly, dodder has a unique ability to “sniff out” certain plant chemicals and will gravitate toward these plants soon after germination. Notable hosts are jewelweed in the wild and tomatoes in crop cultivation. Thus, if you are interested in finding dodder, in July and August check out places where jewelweed abounds. Look for mats of orange, stringy vines covering the tops of this plant and perhaps on nearby Joe-pye weed and goldenrods.  

                      Yellow strings of dodder encompassing plants in a field
                      Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Dodder seeds can survive in soil for twenty years or more and will germinate as conditions are suitable. Because of the longevity of its seed viability, dodder may be found either yearly in the same area or appear there years later. Flooding can also relocate the seeds, so it may appear along various spots along the same stream or pond. Look for its small white flowers appearing in clusters along the vine in late July and August. 

                      Once dodder is firmly established on the host plant in the wild, research has shown that removal of the host plants and the dodder, especially before seeds are set on the dodder, will be more effective than other methods. This may need to be done yearly until any seed bank is exhausted. Try to scout early in July as dodder is getting established. Sometimes small dodder plants can be removed from the host. Some people with dodder persisting in extensive areas have burned these sites, and this will also severely impact any seeds on the ground. 

                      Dodder is an aggressive plant, but it is not considered invasive because it is a native plant. It has received the dubious honor of making the Federal List of Noxious Weeds, though.  Although its hosts may be severely weakened, dodder does not always kill its host. While that is not reasonable cause to let it run rampant in a garden, in the wild it is in more of a tournament for survival. May the best plant win… 

                      The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant September 1, 2025

                      Queen Anne’s Lace

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                      By Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      A field of Queen Anne's Lace
                      Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Among the plants that have naturalized across this country, is the seemingly ubiquitous Queen Anne’s lace also known as the wild carrot. This herbaceous biennial originated around the Mediterranean region and western Asia. It is thought to be a wild ancestor of the carrot as both wild and domesticated carrots existed at least 5000 years ago. Anyone weeding or digging out Queen Anne’s lace from garden beds will notice the distinctive carrot smell of the taproots.

                      Pass almost any sunny roadside or field and you’ll find the delicate white lacy blossoms swaying in the breeze. Plants start out as small rosettes of fern-like, green leaves. The seeds can germinate throughout the growing season if enough moisture is present. Typically seeds germinate within a couple of years but they can remain viable for at least 7 years. A taproot develops where energy is stored for next year’s growth. The following spring, the plant produces more leaves, stalks and flowers. The lacy leaves are finely divided and tripinnate. The hairy, solid stem can grow up to 3 feet before the flower buds are formed.

                      Queen Anne’s lace blossoms typically appear from June through August in most areas. The tiny white flowers are clustered into a flat, terminal umbel from 2 to 4 inches across. Curiously, many flower heads have a single pinkish to purplish floret in the center. The color is due to the pigment, anthocyanin. For at least 150 years, botanists have been trying to figure out what purpose the dark colored floret serves. It is thought that perhaps it serves as an insect attractant but this remains to be confirmed.

                      Each floret on the umbel can produce 2 seeds. Since there might be 1000 florets making up the umbel, saying this plant is a prolific seeder is an understatement. In at least 35 states, it is considered a noxious weed as it displaces native vegetation. As the seeds ripen, the flower head curls inward like a closed fist or bird’s nest and turns brown. Eventually the dried seed head might detach from the stem and then it can be blown like a tumbleweed spreading its cache. This plant is especially problematic if it occurs where domesticated carrots are grown for their seed. Cross pollination could take place and the resulting seed would be useless. The seeds have hooked spines and can readily attach to cloth and fur.

                      An insect on a white floret.
                      Photo by Dawn Pettinelli, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Aside from its lovely, lacy flowers that hold up well in cut flower arrangements, Queen Anne’s lace serves as a host plant for the eastern black swallowtail caterpillar as well as providing a source of nectar for other butterfly species, bees and other pollinators.

                      Several seed companies offer varieties of Queen Anne’s lace that were bred or selected for their dark coloration. ‘Purple Kisses’ sports umbels in shades of dark purple and pink and is available from Johnny’s Seed. ‘Chocolate Lace’ from Seed Therapy comes in shades of burgundy, chocolate and dusty rose. Although I have not grown these varieties, I suspect they would also self-seed. A better option might be to try Ammi majus, called the Bishop’s flower or False Queen Anne’s lace. It is an annual with similar lacy, white flowers but I have not found it to be a prolific seeder especially if the flowers are used for cutting and not left to go to seed.

                      Being a member of the parsley (Apiaceae) family, Queen Anne’s lace is edible but not very flavorful. The flowers are sometimes used to make jelly. The root could be eaten when young but gets tough very fast. The seeds especially have been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. Reputedly this aromatic herb has many uses ranging from a love potion to soothing the digestive system, supporting the liver and for kidney and bladder diseases. If you are tempted to sample some Queen Anne’s lace, be very careful to identify it correctly. Other plants, such as poison hemlock have similar flowers and foliage but deadly outcomes.
                      As to how Queen Anne’s lace got its name, there are a number of anecdotes. Perhaps it resembled the lace collar or headdress of Queen Anne (1655-1714). Another story goes that she was tatting lace and pricked her figure leaving a drop of blood on the lace, representing the dark floret. Or it could be that the dark floret was thought to be the Queen and the white ones her maids. Geoffrey Grigson, an English botanist, conjectured that the name was in honor of St. Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary and the patron saint of lacemakers.
                      However Queen Anne’s lace got its name, one has to be in awe of how widespread it has become. Because plants are short-lived but prolific seeders, one way to control it is to remove the flower heads before they go to seed. They do make delightful cut flowers so make use of them in arrangements. You get to enjoy them and there is less seed out there.

                      The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 23, 2025

                      Best Practices for Soil Sample Collection: How You Sample Matters

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                      By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student, UConn Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture

                      Auger full of soil
                      Auger collection of a 6-inch soil core. Photo by Nora Doonan

                      Soil testing begins with the homeowner, gardener, and farmer. The most critical step in soil testing is soil sample collection. Soil testing can help growers make informed decisions about fertilizer application, soil amendments, and soil health. A standard nutrient analysis can chemically extract calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, iron, manganese, copper, zinc, aluminum, and boron from the soil. Other tests can also determine the pH and organic matter content of the soil. Poor sample collection can cause errors in the testing results, potentially leading to inaccurate nutrient recommendations and lowered crop productivity. Consistent and proper sampling procedures allow you to make future comparisons of the same sampling area. They also allow you to limit unnecessary nutrient applications that could lead to environmental contamination through the loss of nutrients. In addition, soil testing costs money and can influence the total cost of fertilizer and amendments needed for application. Following proper sample collection procedures can help you avoid unnecessary expenses.  

                      The first step in collecting a soil sample is to determine an area in which the sample will be collected. You will want to select an area that has similar physical appearance, slope, drainage, limestone or fertilizer treatments, and intended plant usage. For example, if your front lawn has a steep slope compared to a flat side yard, you will want to collect a separate sample from both of those areas, rather than grouping them together as one sample.  

                      The second step is to have a clean bucket and tool for collecting soil. This can be done more easily with a spade, auger, or probe. You will want to collect 10 or more random subsamples from across the selected area, that way the sample submission is representative. Flowers, vegetables, and small fruits soil samples should be collected to a depth of 6-8 inches. A depth of 6 inches is widely accepted since it represents the zone in which there is highest root density and nutrient uptake for many plant species. Soil samples collected for turf should be collected to a depth of 3-4 inches, since most turfgrass roots are concentrated in the top 4 inches of soil. Tree and shrub samples should be collected to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. These are the recommended sampling depths from the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory. It is also important to make sure that the sample is collected vertically, rather than at an angle. Sampling at an angle can affect the sampling depth and lead to inaccurate lab results.  

                      Next, you will want to mix the subsamples together to break up the clumps while removing stones and debris. Once mixed, scoop out at least 1 cup of soil into a zipper lock bag and label the bag with a sample identification. Fill out the submission form with the same sample identification and label a crop code. Crop codes are key for making recommendations. Different crops have different needs. For example, blueberry plants prefer acidic soils that have a pH between 4.5 and 5.0 while turf prefers a pH between 6.0 and 7.2.  

                      Soil samples can be collected at any time of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen, but should not be collected when the soil is very wet or within six to eight weeks of a fertilizer or lime application. Many samples are submitted in the spring to prepare for the growing season, but a fall soil sample submission can be very beneficial for soil pH and some fertility corrections. Limestone and sulfur can be added to the soil in the fall to allow plenty of time for the lime to neutralize soil acidity and bring pH to target levels by the spring. Sandy textured soils should be sampled every 2 to 3 years and clay soils should be sampled every 3 to 4 years. If a soil test reveals that a large correction in pH or fertility is necessary, it may be a good idea to have your soil tested again in 1 year to evaluate the correction. More information on soil testing services and soil sampling procedures can be found at the UConn Soil Nutrient Analysis Laboratory. 

                      The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

                        

                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 16, 2025

                      Weed Management for Late Summer

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                      By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      With a perfect combination of warm days, cool nights, and plenty of rain, every gardener has been fighting weeds since this summer began! To add to the frustration, the weather patterns themselves have felt like they have fallen on weekends, holidays, and all those precious hours that we love to be spending in the garden, making it difficult to get out and manage what is there. So how do we catch up?  

                      A person using a weed wacker
                      Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      I’m sorry to say that the adage of “pick your battles” is going to be the best strategy to keep you from “getting lost in the weeds.” Mechanical removal like string trimming, mowing, or cultivating your garden are always effective. But some of us are looking for something that feels more efficient or saves our back from hours of labor-intensive weed pulling in this summer heat. Strategizing more long-term goals for your planting beds and lawns might be better for you than running outside with your garden weasel right now.  

                      We’ve all heard “nature abhors a vacuum” before. Weeds are no different. If turf is thin, or garden beds are left with uncovered soil, weeds will pop up. Utilize groundcovers and mulches to keep soil covered. If you’re in between plantings in the vegetable garden, a temporary cover, like cardboard, may keep seeds from contacting the soil until you’re ready to plant! For more long-term coverage, consider cover crops in your vegetable gardens.  

                      Encourage dense plantings through proper fertilizing, watering, and care. Healthy perennials and shrubs will shade out seeds that may try to germinate below them. For lawns, consider overseeding to bulk up thinned turf areas between August 15th and September 15th.  Mulch garden beds and pathways with a minimum depth of 3 inches if groundcovers aren’t being used.  

                      Once you have soil coverage under control, look at the nutrition. When the soil is not nutritionally supportive, you often find compounding issues like patches where you can never get grass to grow, poor vegetable production/flowering, and lots of weeds! Many weeds can thrive in these poor soils. While weeds aren’t necessarily a definitive indicator of a nutrient problem, it can be another clue when looking at the health of your planting areas. If you kill the weeds, and the soil remains poor you can expect weeds again the following season. Therefore, testing your soil and correcting imbalances is a long term and sustainable solution.  

                      Some common weeds, like crabgrass, are beyond a stage where we can easily control them with methods available to the homeowner. Fear not! Crabgrass is an annual, and the plants themselves will not return next year! They, instead, propagate through seeds.  

                      At this point in the season, shift your focus towards minimizing next year’s seed bank. As much as we loved to “make a wish” on a dandelion as children, we were only spreading more dandelions into the yard! Keep this in mind now as you tend your garden. Cut grass before weeds can develop flowers and distribute seeds. Remove plants like pokeweed, before they have a chance to develop berries that can be carried off by animals.  

                      Don’t underestimate the value of a good identification. Knowing the exact species of weed in the garden can help you make a targeted approach with whatever physical, cultural, or chemical method you might be considering.  

                      If you must resort to chemical management, read the label in full and follow all instructions provided. At the UConn Home & Garden Education Center we do not recommend the use of anecdotal home remedies for weeds. Many of these methods are not researched. Products used in the garden should be labeled for use on a specific host, a specific pest, and have specific application instructions. As an example, while vinegar may be recommended anecdotally to use on weeds in the garden, one should only consider a product like horticultural vinegar that has a specific formulation, concentration, and a product label that clearly identifies its uses, safety precautions, and instructions for use.  

                      No matter what weed you are trying to manage, persistence is key. This is especially important to remember if you’re dealing with the most aggressive weeds, or even invasive plant species. Rarely do we see a single treatment leading to complete eradication. So don’t be discouraged if plants are taking multiple seasons to tackle. The CT Invasive Plant Working Group has great guidances on what you should do for specific species of invasive plants like Japanese Knotweed, Mile-A-Minute Vine, Tree of Heaven, and more.  

                      If you have specific questions or need help with weed identification in the lawn or garden, send us pictures, or stop by with a sample.  

                      The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 9, 2025

                      Extreme Sports for Plants: Temperature Tolerance

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                      By Dr. Matthew Lisy, UConn Adjunct Faculty

                      Spathiphyllum wallisii in a pot wilting indoors

                      This Spathiphyllum wallisii is forty years old. In the fall of 2024, it wilted due to an extreme negative temperature change. (photo by M. Lisy)

                      Spathiphyllum wallisii outside, lush and healthy

                      This is the same Spathiphyllum wallisii showing a lot of new growth during the warm, humid summer of 2025. (photo by M. Lisy)

                      Plants, like humans, have an ideal temperature preference.  In general, we like to have temperatures between 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  Temperatures outside this range cause us stress.  Our plants have very similar temperature requirements, only they have no ability to shiver or move!  This past winter, I had a 40-year-old houseplant near my bedroom window.  Our fall weather hit, and we dropped about 30 degrees in a day.  My plant wilted and looked like it was going to die.  After a long process of investigation and discussions with my fellow plant professionals, I can only conclude it was the rapid temperature change.  The good news is that it made a full recovery once it adapted to the cooler weather.

                      This past winter, I had some Sansevieria that were under my windowsill.  They get beautiful light in the later part of the day.  The house is heated to 55 degrees, which is above their lower temperature tolerance, but the plants were not looking good.  This spring, I found out that the storm window had fallen out of place.  This set up a cold draft that negatively affected the plants, causing some formerly unexplained rot over the winter.

                      Not all plants have the same susceptibility to temperature.  Cacti and succulents are usually from hot, arid climates.  These plants are used to seeing temperatures soaring in the day, and then getting comparatively cold at night.  As long as they are given proper light, most of these plants can tolerate life very easily in our homes.  Even cold, unheated basements or outdoor greenhouses are just fine as long as temperatures stay above freezing.

                      Many of our plants come from the tropical forest floor where they are used to similar temperatures during the day and the night, all year long.  While there is some adaptation to life in our homes, they have a preferred temperature and humidity range.  There are some really neat “new” Philodendron species being offered for sale.  Many of them have minimum temperatures of 60 or even 65.  This can be difficult to do in an era where our smart thermostats are programed to turn down while we are not home, and up when we return in the evening.  These temperature swings may be intolerable to our plants.

                      Be careful watering plants when the sun is shining.  Those little water droplets can end up capturing the sun’s rays just like a greenhouse would.  The droplets heat up and can actually burn a spot in the plant leaf.  Remember, each drop can do this, so many times, the whole plant can look like a spotted mess!

                      Temperature can many times mark the difference between success and failure to keep some of the more difficult species of houseplants.  Changes should be done slowly to avoid stress.  If houseplants are kept outside in the summer, waiting too long can see the loss of some plants with lower temperature tolerances.  Placing plants closer to the house or inside a simple greenhouse can help during the first cool nights of early fall.  Especially sensitive plants should be brought in before any threat of cool weather.  I learned this lesson the hard way with my prized Philodendron squamiferum.  Its ideal temperature range is 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit.  I had it in the basement and was planning on moving it to the first floor, but left it down there as the light was nice.  While this plant technically can tolerate temperatures in the 50s for a short duration, it got too cold for too long and it dropped all its leaves one night (it died).  As a general rule of thumb, if it is too cold for people, it will be too cold for our houseplants!

                      The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

                      This article was published in the Hartford Courant August 2, 2025

                      Weeds, Strawberries, Butterflies, and Other August News

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                      August 2025

                      “A late summer garden has a tranquility found no other time of the year.”

                      — William F. Longgood

                      Overwhelmed by Weeds?

                      A garden bed with bare soil, weeds, and a hand tiller
                      It doesn't take long for weeds to creep into garden beds! Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      This season's pattern of lots of rain and lots of heat have made it difficult for gardeners to get out into their gardens, while creating the perfect environment for weeds to thrive!

                      We've been getting quite a few calls regarding weed management and invasive species control as gardens are booming with unwelcome guests. And while there is no one[size-fits-all approach to weed management, here are the key points to remember: 

                      • “Nature abhors a vacuum." Leaving bare soil or undisturbed garden areas will more likely lead to the development of weeds. Instead, keep the soil covered until you intend to plant. Encourage dense plantings of cover crops in vegetable gardens, utilize groundcovers, or consider using mulch of a thickness of 3" or more for walkways and desired plant-free areas.
                      • Minimize the seed bank. Keep weeds mowed or cut back before flowers or fruit emerge. Turn the soil, or ensure dense plantings don't allow seeds to germinate by shading out the area or preventing good soil contact. Consider pre-emergents if you have a history of recurrence.
                      • Sometimes (not always) weeds can be an indication of soil fertility. Therefore, soil amendments may be more effective than spraying or hand pulling. Get your soil tested to know for sure!
                      • If considering garden chemicals, always make sure to identify the weed and use only products that are labeled for that plant. Read the label in full for all information regarding application rates, safety and environmental considerations.
                      • Be patient and persistent with management. Total eradication and control may eed multiple seasons before you see results. Keep at it!

                      Weed Control in Landscapes Non-Chemical Measures

                      Weeds as Indicators of Soil and Growing Conditions in Turf

                      CIPWG Invasive Plant List

                      Renovate Your Strawberry Beds

                      To promote continuous success of strawberries in your garden, take time this August to perform renovations to your plants. Maintenance such as clipping tall growth, removing weak or dead leaves, and fertilization will help to maximize the productivity of your strawberries in the coming years. Mulching, ensuring adequate water intake, and weeding are also necessary for upkeep of strong plants. These techniques maximize yields and protect against disease prevalence.

                      End of Season Strawberry Renovation - UConn HGEC

                      Renovation of Strawberry Plantings - University of Nebraska-Lincoln

                      Where are the butterflies?

                      Small brown butterfly on a twig
                      Banded Hairstreak Butterfly. Photo by Pamm Cooper,
                      UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Are you seeing fewer butterflies in your garden? You're not alone.

                      New studies have determined that over the past two decades in the continental United States, the populations of hundreds of butterfly species have fallen by 22%. These declines are commonly attributed to pesticide use, habitat loss, and climate change. This is concerning because butterflies play important roles in pollination, cycling nutrients, and are a significant food source for other organisms such as birds.

                      However, conservation biologists have created a roadmap for recovering butterfly populations across the US, and their best chance at recovery starts in your backyard. Actions you can take include providing as much habitat as possible for these animals and keeping these areas pesticide-free.  

                      As U.S. butterfly populations plummet, scientists map a road to recovery

                      Study raises the possibility of a country without butterflies

                      Native Plant: August Flowering Perennials

                      Bonset, Spotted joe-pye weed, and goldenrod blooming in a meadow
                      Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      Native spotted Joe-pye Weed (Eupatorium maculatum), Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) and certain moisture-loving goldenrods (Solidago spp.) can often be found in dampish soils in open areas. They are often found together in the wild, and all three are attractive to pollinators and butterflies.

                      These natives bloom at the same time in late July through early September, making them a good addition to a moist garden area that could use some color in late summer. There are many native goldenrods that will do fine in drier soils, as well, making them a versatile plant.

                      Learn More About Boneset

                      Learn More About Goldenrods

                      Learn More About Spotted Joe-pye Weed

                      The Connecticut Native Perennial, Tree, & Shrub Availability List

                      Word from the WiSE

                      Women in Soil Ecology, UConn Student Chapter

                      Surf the Web on Web Soil Survey!

                      This month, UConn’s Women in Soil Ecology brings you a word on Web Soil Survey. Are you ever curious about the soil in your yard and wish there was some way you could learn more information about it? You’re in luck, because there is an online web tool that allows you to do just that!

                      Web Soil Survey is a free online tool that allows you to input an address and select an area of interest to view a soil map and soils data in that area. This information is provided by the National Cooperative Soil Survey, which is operated by the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS). This tool can help you decide what plants to grow based on your soil conditions, as well as aid in other land planning. Web Soil Survey contains a lot of information, but an interesting feature is the soil health data, which can provide descriptions and ratings for key soil health indicators. 

                      By Nora Doonan, Soil Science Graduate Student

                      Weather Outlook

                      A seasoned gardener always keeps their eye to the sky at any time of year! Maps and the 30 day outlook from NOAA will help you stay prepared for any and all of your gardening chores! (Click image to see larger map.)

                          Temperature map

                      Precipitation Outlook

                       

                      In the Garden & Pest Alerts

                      Tobacco Budworms

                      Tobacco budworm caterpillars, can be pests of many flowering plants in the tobacco family. Petunias, geraniums, snapdragons and Calibrachoa are just a few of the plants whose buds and flowers can be damaged by this caterpillar.

                      Check plants that have stopped flowering to see if buds have been eaten or damaged. Check inside flowers for these caterpillars as they have a preference for reproductive flower parts and petals.

                      Hand- picking them off is the best control method. Most insecticides should not be used on flowers as pollinator may be killed or injured. BtK is normally ineffective.

                      Tobacco Budworm

                      Tobacco budworm on pink flower bud

                      Photo by Pamm Cooper,
                      UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                      UConn Pest Alerts

                      During the growing season, UConn Extension publishes a regular pest alert for both vegetable and fruit producers. Additionally, the New England Vegetable Management Guide offers a lot of information about specific vegetable crops.

                      While the target audience for these publications is usually commercial growers, home gardeners can learn a lot from these materials including identification and management of common pests in your veggie gardens!

                      If you ever need confirmation on an ID or have additional questions about what you read in these reports, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at the Home & Garden Education Center! We're happy to help your gardens thrive.

                      UConn Vegetable Pest Alerts

                      UConn Fruit Pest Messages

                      New England Vegetable Management Guide

                      Upcoming Events and Things to Do

                          Educational Opportunities & Workshops

                                Supplement Your Garden Produce with CT Grown Products! 

                                Connecticut is rich in agricultural history, with many operational farms that have lots to offer local markets! 

                                Supporting local CT Agriculture is a way that gardeners can supplement the fresh foods they grow in their garden, with seasonal offerings from year round operations.

                                Consider attending a local farmers market, joining Community Supported Agriculture (CSA's), or even stopping by your nearest farm stand to see what they have to offer!  

                                 

                                August Gardening Tips

                                    • Lawn seeding, whether it's renovation, repair, or spot seeding should take place between August 15th and September 15th
                                    • Container and hanging plants may need additional water later in the day if hot and windy conditions prevail. Check plants again at day’s end to see if any additional water is necessary
                                    • Fertilize container plantings and hanging baskets if they look yellow with a ½ strength dose of a balanced liquid fertilizer.
                                    • Fertilize perennials with a 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 product to encourage continued blooming.
                                    • Remove old plants that have stopped producing to eliminate a shelter for insects and disease organisms. Replant sites with chard, quick maturing beans or cucumbers, leafy greens etc.
                                    • Put netting on fruit trees and bushes a few weeks before the fruit begins to ripen to protect it from birds and squirrels
                                    • Raise your mowing height to 3 inches during hot weather and mulch clippings if possible
                                    • Even though tomatoes continue to ripen after picking, fruits develop greatest flavor when allowed to ripen on plants. The exception is cherry tomatoes since many varieties are prone to splitting. Pick any almost ripe ones before a heavy rain.
                                    • Renovate strawberry beds by mowing to a height of 1 ½ inches, thinning plants and side-dressing with a balanced fertilizer
                                    • To reduce the number of pests on your fruit trees for the coming year practice good sanitation by removing and destroying all fallen fruit. Do not compost it.
                                    • Do not add weeds with mature seed heads to the compost pile. Many weed seeds can remain viable and germinate next year when the compost is used.

                                    This Month’s Newsletter Contributors: 
                                    Heather Zidack, Pamm Cooper, Holly McNamara, Emily Leahy, Nora Doonan

                                    Favorite Summer Plants For Hummingbirds

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                                    By Pamm Cooper, UConn Home and Garden Education Center  

                                    Every spring I make a list of the plants that hummingbirds visited the   most the year before, and then my search at garden centers and nurseries begins in earnest. The plants I look for are the ones that not only hummingbirds seem to benefit from the most, but also the ones that bloom the longest. I also select the plants whose flowers I enjoy as well.  

                                    Although annuals generally have the longest bloom time, there are some perennial ornamentals that are very attractive to hummingbirds and are worth considering for a garden or a landscape. Including a small group of these plants would be a great benefit to hummingbirds as they visit your property.  

                                    Obedient plants, Physostegia virginiana, can bloom from early June through September. These drought tolerant perennials may get 3 feet tall and some will slowly spread. If that trait is a problem, The ‘Manners’ series such as the white ‘Miss Manners’ obedient plants are not spreaders. The flowers are also attractive to butterflies, especially tiger swallowtails, and pollinators.  

                                    Native swamp milkweed, Asclepias incarnata, is also visited by hummingbirds. This plant likes moister soils than most milkweed, and mine is planted near a birdbath that gets emptied frequently to add fresh water. This milkweed, along with butterfly weed A. tuberosa, can be deadheaded to promote rebloom.  

                                    Hyssops, Agastache spp., are also a favorite of hummingbirds, and most have a long bloom period, some starting in late spring. The ‘Kudos’ series with small flowers that are yellow, pink or orange are the ones visited the most by hummingbirds on my property. Another favorite is ‘Boa’, which has larger flower spikes lasting a good three months. Deadheading all will prolong bloom time.  

                                    Annual flowering plants that are a favorite of hummingbirds include Salvias, cardinal climber, Fuschias, Lantanas and Cupheas. All are easy to grow, and all but the cardinal vine can be used in containers, hangers and window boxes.  

                                    The cardinal climber, Ipomena x multifida, is an attractive, fast-growing annual vine that has small, brilliant red trumpet- like flowers. You can save seeds from this plant and use them next year. One plant can grow to fill a large trellis, and you may need to corral it in if it starts reaching out for nearby plants.  

                                    Of the Cupheas, the ones most visited, in my experience, are the large firecracker plant, C. vermillionaire, and the smaller one, C. schumannii, also called the orange cigar plant. The former is superior, with a compact, mounding habit and continuous bloom of orange tubular flowers until frost. If the smaller cigar plant is planted directly in the garden, give it some room as it sprawls somewhat.  

                                    Purple flowers on a dark purple upright stem.
                                    Black and Blue Salvia. Photo by Pamm Cooper, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                    Annual Salvias like the “Rockin’ series, the ‘Black and Blue’,  ‘Roman Red’ and the ‘Hot Lips’ salvias are the ones I always have in my containers or plant directly in the ground in spaces I leave for them. I would not venture to guess which ones hummingbird prefer, as they visit all of these throughout the day.  

                                    There are a couple of shrubs that I learned by chance observance are favorites of hummingbirds. These are Weigelas, and butterfly bushes, Buddleia davidii. There are Weigelas that bloom only in the spring, some that bloom in spring and then again later in the summer through fall, like the ‘Sonic Blooms’, and some that bloom throughout the year, like ‘Crimson Kisses’ and ‘ Peach Kisses’. The last two are smaller shrubs which have a rounded habit.  

                                    The plants I have included in this brief article are only a small example of plants that the average gardener can include on their property in gardens or containers of some type. I will mention that while I do have a hummingbird feeder, the hummers I see are favoring actual flowers over that source of food. Downy woodpeckers and orioles do visit the feeder instead, so it is useful to them, I guess. I may start calling it my downy feeder, at least during the summer. 

                                    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations. 

                                    This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 26, 2025

                                    Seeing Ghosts in Your Garden?

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                                    By Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                                    While meandering around my backyard this past weekend, I spotted a striking plant which I had never seen before. At first instinct, I assumed it was a particularly unique fungal species and snapped a couple pictures. My curiosity having been piqued, I did some research and learned that it was in fact not a fungus, but a parasitic plant reliant on fungus – Monotropa uniflora. Its name is self-descriptive; Monotropa, illustrating the single turn of its shepherd hook shape, and uniflora, depicting the lone flower produced on each stem. It is also known as “Ghost Plant” or “Indian Pipe.”

                                    Pale white stem and leaf structures of Monotropa uniflora.
                                    Monotropa uniflora in a shaded area. Photo by Emily Leahy, UConn Plant Diagnostic Lab

                                    Perhaps the most unusual feature of Monotropa uniflora is its color, or lack thereof. While mostly white-colored overall, hues of pink can be visible along with black flecks spread along the plant. The translucent nature of the plant is derived from the absence of chlorophyll, a green pigment and key component allowing autotropic plants to perform photosynthesis.

                                    Autotrophs are organisms that convert abiotic (non-living) sources of energy, like sunlight, into organic compounds they can use for food production. Most plants have this ability, using the chemical reactions in photosynthesis to produce carbohydrates for their own nourishment. However, Monotropa uniflora, a heterotrophic plant, cannot carry out such processes. They seek the organic compounds needed to sustain themselves from external sources. Autotrophs are often referred to as “producers” and heterotrophs “consumers” to illustrate this distinction. Since Monotropa uniflora is not directly dependent on sunlight for survival, it is often found in shaded areas and forests.

                                    This all begs the question – where does Monotropa uniflora get its nourishment from? The answer comes in the form of its parasitization of mycorrhizal fungi and surrounding trees. The term “mycorrhizal” is used to describe fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots of its host plant. The interaction is mutually beneficial – mycorrhizal fungi receive sugars and carbon from its host, which in turn is aided by the fungus in its absorption of water and nutrients. The root system of the host plant is used as a transportation highway in these interactions.

                                    Monotropa uniflora inserts itself as a third player in the relationship, disrupting its balance. In a clever sleight of hand, the parasite tricks the mycorrhizal fungi into thinking it is forming another symbiotic relationship as its root system interacts with the fungal mycelium. However, the benefits of this interaction are strictly one-sided as Monotropa siphons the carbohydrates, initially derived from the mycorrhizae’s host trees, for its own consumption. This is not severely detrimental to the fungi or host plants, but it certainly detracts from the vigor of their symbiotic relationship and the amount of available resources transferred between the two entities.

                                    Monotropa uniflora has a wide range of distribution throughout the U.S., so it is possible to see these fascinating plants in action in a variety of locations. Its flowering season ranges from early summer to early fall and it thrives even after seeds are released.

                                    A microcosm of ecological phenomena, Monotropa uniflora is quite the unique find. It is enthralling not only to observe, but also to know the complex interactions that occur just below ground. I say we can overlook its parasitic tendencies and appreciate its role in the delicate balance of our natural world – after all, everyone loves a good villain, right?

                                    Need help identifying something interesting in your garden? We’re here to help! The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

                                    This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 19, 2025

                                    It’s Not Too Late! Plant Now for Fall Harvests

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                                    By Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                    Squash seedling with first true leaves mulched with straw.
                                    A young squash seedling planted in time for the fall harvest! Photo by Heather Zidack, UConn Home & Garden Education Center

                                    Gardeners have had a broad range of experiences with their vegetable gardens this season. Some planted early in May with the warm weather, which was followed by a cold front that meant covering plants, or keeping them in pots longer than you had planned. For others, a pattern of cool, rainy spring weekends delayed planting! Cornell even sent out a reminder to residents to watch for tractors on the roads a little later this season as farmers, too, were scrambling to adjust in upstate New York. Thankfully, there is still plenty of growing season left for us to shift our practices and still have a bountiful harvest from our home gardens.

                                    There are roughly 100 days left of the growing season until the first predicted frost date, according to the farmers’ almanac. That means you have an opportunity to still plant your dream vegetable garden! Look at the “days to maturity” to determine if planting now makes sense. Many summer crops, like zucchini, cucumbers, and even some types of winter squash have much shorter days to maturity and can be started from seed right in the warm, summer soil.

                                    Have a type of bean, radish or leafy green you love, but can’t process bushels at a time? Plant every couple of weeks this month for a staggered harvest to enjoy your favorites for an even longer period at a more manageable volume!

                                    Do you plan to harvest garlic this month? Be ready to follow up with a short-term crop like leafy greens, beets, carrots, or even some types of corn!

                                    The practice of succession planting gives gardeners a chance to extend the garden season and promotes soil health by keeping your garden beds active. Rotating crops in this fashion reduces the risks of soil erosion, weed overgrowth, and nutrient depletion, when done correctly.

                                    When setting up a succession or rotation schedule, consider what has been in the bed previously and how those plantings might interact. Determine the nutrient needs of the plants you are considering. You want to be sure you are not planting one heavy feeder right after another as this may mean you need to provide more nutritional support than you planned for. Instead, opt for plants that feed on different nutrients, or better still, plants that help to reintroduce nutrients into the soil.

                                    Succession planting and crop rotation not only benefit the garden beds that have been put on the back burner as we’ve tried to find time between the rain and temperature swings, but it may also benefit those who have a history of battling with garden pests. Planting later in the season may help prevent or minimize damage from many single generation pests, like the Squash Vine Borer or the Four-Lined Plant Bug.

                                    Many Cole crops (those in the brassica family) and cool season crops can be started from seed now in preparation for fall planting. However, it may be best to start these indoors instead of directly sowing in the ground. Temperatures over 85 may cause delayed germination or bolting too early once those plants pop out of the soil. Starting them indoors gives you a little more control over the temperature. Otherwise, search for heat tolerant varieties for better results.

                                    If you want a rest from the care of vegetable gardening and harvesting, consider planting annuals. There are many varieties of marigold, cosmos, zinnia, and some other beautiful cut flower varieties that could happily take up some space and lend their services to some late season table arrangements for you!

                                    There’s a lot to still do if you want a bountiful fall harvest, and there are a lot of considerations to make when planning what to plant next. Do your research with cooperative extension or land-grant university resources for science-backed information to guide you in your next steps. And remember, we’re here at the Home & Garden Education Center to help you make sense of it all!

                                    The UConn Home & Garden Education Center supports UConn Extension’s mission by providing answers you can trust with research-based information and resources. For gardening questions, contact us toll-free at (877) 486-6271, visit our website at homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu, or reach out to your local UConn Extension center at cahnr.uconn.edu/extension/locations.

                                    This article was published in the Hartford Courant July 12, 2025